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TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Photographic 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEOSTER.N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  871-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIV5/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notas  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checited  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  uamaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couvurture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

ColOMiad  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  biacic)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


n 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reiiure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6ri;«ure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
ma^s,  iorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  et6  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaUes; 


L'Institut  a  microfiimi  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4t6  possible  de  se  procu'er.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  imago  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessouc. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagees 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pa(^ss  restaur6ee  et/ou  peiliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe« 
Pages  d6color6es,  tach^ties  ou  ptqudes 


|~~|    Pages  damaged/ 

I     I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

rr~Z  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


□    Pagos  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 

ryf  Showthrough/ 
w  J    Transparence 

'      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  inAgaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppi^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  reHlmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partlellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  fllmAes  it  nouveau  de  fagon  it 
obtenir  la  meiileure  image  possible. 


T 
t( 


T 

P 
o 
fi 


0 
bi 
t^ 
si 
o 
fi 
si 
oi 


Tl 
si 
Tl 
w 

M 
di 
er 
b( 
ri{ 
re 
m 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

v/ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Harold  Campbell  Vaughan  Memorial  Library 
Acadia  University 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reprodult  grAce  A  la 
g6n6rosit6  da: 

Harold  Campbell  VauiHian  Memorial  Library 

Acadia  University 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specific^ations. 


Le&  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmi.  et  an 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  tha  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustratsd  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termi  nant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comoorte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — •►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  y  signSfie  "FIN  ". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  ets.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  redaction  ratios.  These  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
begii;ning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvbnt  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reprodult  en  un  seul  cMchd,  il  est  filmA  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

4 


W'-dlbtfinMlithU 


eaa  &  Sons^ 


13  FANEUIL  HALL  SQUARE,  BOSTON. 


DEALERS   IN 


21 

in  2  B 


FiNEGUNS,SHOOTING  I  FISHING  TACKLE 


'  Oonstantly  on  hand  a  large  stock  of  Doable  and  Single  Guns,  comprising  EVSRT 

VAKIETT  and  make,  ma':Ble*loading  and  breech- k>ading,  and  ALL  articlei  pertaining  to 
them. 

ALI^    THE    BEST    BREECH-I^OADERS, 

"Bcotf  •,"  "  Werttoy  Biohard's."  "  WeWey's,"  "  OrMnsr's."  "  Moore's,"   "  W.  Fieh- 

ard's,  of  Liverpoo!,"  "  Ellis's,"  and  all  others.    Also  the  "  Roper," 

sad  other  American  makea 

W«i  mnifee  a  gpeeiaUyofW.  Jt  C.  Scott  Jt  Son'g  **  fine  Breeeh-X/oad- 
inff  Double  Guns,  which  for  fine,  tltgant  finish^  and  close  and  stronf  shooting  powers 
mre  unsurpasned.  Scott's  New  Book  on  JBreeeh- Loaders,  elegantly  bound  tit 
Morocco^  xent  on  receipt  of  2S  cts, 

"FINE    MUZZLE-LOADERS," 

IN  GREAT  VARIETY, 

FOR   SNIPE,  PLOVER,  &   DUCK    SHOOTING, 

Bored  to  Shoot  Close  and  Strong. 

Persons  ordering  from  a  distance,  by  stating  SIZE,  BORE,  WEIGHT,  &e.,  will  be 
served  as  ireli  as  if  present.  Fine  Breech-Loading  or  Muzzle-Loading  Guns  imported  to 
Older  of  any  make  or  sice. 

"FISHING-TACKLE"  IN  ALL  ITS  BRANCHE& 

ALSO,    FINE 

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One-poundsrs,  mounted  on  Blahogany  Carriages,  complete.    Also, 

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A  Substitute  for  live  Birds  in  Shooting-Matches* 

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SEND   FOR   PRIOE-LISTS   AND   0IR0ULAR8. 


/ 


v'^trnmaim 


g  EVERY 
rtaioJog  to 

ieH. 


If  powers 
bound  in 


will  be 
oned  (o 

3," 


ABVaiTUffiS  « JHE  WLDEMESS; 

Br  REV.  WIIXIAM  H.  H.  Mmu,.  V 


i    "XIili  boA  I.  .  _^.  .. ..    .      ^^  "^••«- 


» 

ON  iHE  wnre- 

A  BOOK  FOR   SPORTSMEN. 


JT7LLT  ILLUSTRATBD. 


I     , 


atest 


**^'' food  of  —■««»</»«< 


//\^f  / 


M- 


EW  ENGLAND: 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVEUEKS. 


A   OUIDE  TO 


THE  CHIEF   CITIES  AND   POPULAR   RESORTS  OF   NEW  ENGLAND, 

AND    TO    ITS    SCENERY    AND    HISTORIC    ATTRACTIONS  : 

WITH  THE  WESTERN  AND  NORTHERN  BORDERS, 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


With    Six  Mapfi  and   Uneven  Plana. 


BOSTON: 
JAMES   R.  OSGOOD   AND   COMPANY, 

L\TK  TiCKNOR  &  Fields,  and  Fields,  Osgood,  &  Co. 

1873. 


Entered  acconllns  to  Act  of  Cong«„,  |„  the  ye„r  IS73, 
BY    JAMES    R.   OSGOOD     Sz    CO., 

ta  the  omce  of  the  LiU«rian  of  Co„g,es.,  at  wl.hi„gto„. 


" 


r^ 


o 


1 


University  Press:  Welch,  B.celow,  &  Co.. 
Cambridge, 


■  !l 


4a 


t 


PREFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  New  Eii<^lan(l  is  to 
supply  the  phice  of  a  j,niicle  in  a  hmd  where  profiissional  f^uides 
cannot  be  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  _u[ainin|Lf  tlu;  grcatt'st 
possible  aniDunt  of  pleasure  and  information  while  j)assii!^j 
lhrou<^di  the  most  anci(!nt  and  interesting  district  of  An;j:lo- 
Saxon  America.  New  England  has  hitherto  Ijeen  but  casually 
treated  in  l)ooks  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  ;  special 
localities  within  its  borders  have  been  described  with  more  or 
less  fidelity  in  local  guide-books  ;  but  the  present  volume  is  the 
first  which  has  been  devoted  to  its  treatment  according  to  the 
most  approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar 
])ur[)ose  and  character.  The  Han(ll)ook  is  designed  to  enable 
travellers  to  visit  all  or  any  of  the  notabi:;  places  in  New 
England,  with  economy  of  mon(\y,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving 
lists  of  the  hotels  with  their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various 
routes  by  land  and  water,  and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal 
cities.  The  letter-press  contains  epitcmies  of  the  histories  of  the 
cdd  coast  and  border  towns,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  an  hitecture  of  the  cities, 
biographical  sketches  in  connection  with  the  birthplaces  of 
eminent  men,  and  statistics  of  the  chief  industi'ies  of  the  includti  I 
States.  The  half-forfjotten  but  worthy  and  heroic  records  of  the 
early  colonial  era  and  the  French  and  Indian  wars  have  received 
special  attention  in  connection  with  the  localities  rendered  classic 
in  those  remote  days,  while  numerous  Indian  legends  will  be 
found  in  various  places.  The  operations  of  the  Wars  of  the 
Revolution  and  of  1812  (so  far  as  they  affected  this  section  of 
the  Republic)  have  been  carefully  studied  and  localized,  and  the 
ri^e  of  the  great  modern  manufacturing  cities  has  been  traced 


I  Ov^o^ 


IV 


PKEFACE. 


and  recorded.  The  I'uinous  >summer-rcsorts  —  among  the  in<nin- 
taiiiH  and  by  the  sea —  with  whiili  N(!\v  England  abounds,  and 
uhicli  are  thronged  ])y  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
havt!  JM'cn  described  at  length  in  these  page.s. 

Tlu!  ])lan  and  structure  of  the  book,  it^i  system  c»f  treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  tlu;  Kuroiiean 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typograjdiy,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  ])Ians  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  comi)actnesa  and  iiortability,  ^vhil•h 
have  made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Kurojie,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  ])resent  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotels,  and  scenic  attractions  have  l)een  framed  or 
veiified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  fifteen 
months  of  almost  incessant  trav(!lling  for  tliis  express  pur[)ose. 
But  ijifallibility  is  impossible  in  a  vork  of  this  nature,  especially 
amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America,  and 
hence  the  Editor  would  Le  grateful  for  any  bond  fide  coriec- 
tions  or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents  may 
favor  him.  He  would  also  thankfidly  acknowledge  his  indebted- 
ness to  the  gentlemen  who  have  revised  the  book  in  advance  of 
publication. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  Avill  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  Th.^y  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  s(piares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  ligures  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  most  trustw(n'thy 
time-tables  are  found  in  "  Snow's  Pathfinder  Railway  Guide," 
with  map,  published  weekly  at  Boston  (price  15  c).  The  hotels 
indicated  by  asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed  by  the  Editor 
to  be  the  most  comfortable  and  elegant. 


t 


CONTENTS. 


t 


PACE 

I.    Lanouaoe 1 

II.    MONKY   AND   TnAVKLI.INO    EXPENSES I 

III.  Railways  and  STEAMBOATa.     TitE  Check  System    ....  1 

-IV.  Excursions  on  Foot 2 

V.'  Hotels 3 

VI.  RorND-Tiin"  Exci'usions 4 

VII.  Climate  and  Dress 4 

VIII.  Miscellaneous  Notes 4 


NEW  ENGLAND. 


ROUTE 
1 

2 


Boston        

Environs  of  Boston  .... 

1.  Boston  Harbor.    Tlic  Route  to  Nahant 

2.  Nahant 

3.  1\w  Route  to  Hull,  Ilinghain,  &c.    , 

4.  Hull 

5.  Ilinghani.     Charlo.stown  , 

6.  Clielsca.     Rcvcro  Beach 

7.  Lexington  an<l  Concord     . 

8.  Cambridge.     Harvard  University 

9.  Mount  Auburn  ..... 

10.  Brookline 

11.  Roxbury 

Boston  to  New  York  by  Newport 

1.  Newport 

2.  The  Approach  to  New  York 
Boston  to  S.  Duxbury  ... 
Boston  to  Plymouth 
Boston  to  Cape  Cod 

1.  Fairhaven  Branch 

2.  Marshpce 

7.  Boston  to  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantucket 

1.  Gayhead 

8.  Boston  to  New  York  by  Providence     . 

1.  Providence 

2.  Providence  to  Newport.     Narragansett  Bay 

3.  Providence  to  Warren  and  Bristol   . 


3. 


4. 
5. 
6. 


5 
20 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
27 
28 
20 
33 
35 
36 
30 
10 
47 
48 
51 
54 
54 
QO 
58 
60 
62 
03 
65 
66 


C!ONTENTS. 


ROUTE 

4.  Niirraf;;nis<>tt  Pier 

5.  Wal.li  Hill  I'oint 

0.  Htniiiiixtim  to  New  York.     Block  IhIiitkI    .... 

7.  Nf'W  Haven 

'     9.  Boston  to  Nkw  BrDKonn 

1.  Now  Ht  dCorrl  to  Martha's  Vincyanl.    The  Elizalicth  Islands 

10.    PuoVinKNCK  TO   WoilCKHTKU 

Ik.    rnOVIOKNCR  TO   IIaKTKoUD  and   WATKUHrUY  .  .  .  . 

12.  Nk'v  London  to  Vi-umont 

1.  H.  Vcrrmii  to  Keen*! 

13.  Norwich  to  Nashiu 

14.  HAYitiiooK  to  Haiitkoiid 

If).  Ni;w  IIavkn  to  Noutiiamiton 

10.  Huit)(ii;rouT  to  Winstko 

17.  nuIlXlKPOUT  TO  TIIK   JJrUKSIIIRK   IIlLLS 

18.  S.    NollWAI.K   TO    Damii'iiy 

19.  Boston  to  Nr.w  Vokk  (by  Norwicli) 

1.  Boston  to  Woonsocket 

20.  IfAIlTKOHD  TO   SAMHni'RY   AND   MlLLF.RTON  .... 

21.  Boston  to  Ni;w  Vf)RK  (by  Hi>rinKll»'ld) 

1.  S.  Fnuiiiiigliaiii  to  Lowell  mid  to  Mansfield 

2.  S.  Franiin^'hani  to  Fitcl:'.iurg 

3.  Worcester 

4.  Wprinj^'field 

5.  Hurt  ford         .  

22.  Boston  to  Ai-nANV,  Saratooa,  and  the  West    .... 

23.  Tiir;  Beuksiiirr  TIii.ls 

1.  Pittsticld  and  its  Environs 

2.  Stockbridge 

3.  N.  Adams 

21.  New  York  to  QiTKnEC.    The  Connecticut  Valley  towns    . 

1.  Mount  llolyoko 

2.  Lake  Memiihromugog 

25.  Boston  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel 

20.  Boston  T(^  BrRMNOT;>N  (and  Montreal) 

1.  Fitclibm;^'  to  Pi'terbo?-o' 

27.  Rutland  to  Bennington 

28.  RtTTLAND  to  Albany 

1.  Rutland  and  Waslnngton  liinc 

29.  Boston  to  Lowell,  Concord,  and  Montreal    .... 

1.  Lowell 

•  2.  Nashua  to  Wilton 

8.  Concord  to  Clareniont 

4.  St.  Albnns  to  Richford 

5.  St.  Albans  to  Rouse's  Point 

30.  Boston  to  the  Franconia  Mountains 

31.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains 

1.  Rochester  to  Portland       ........ 


PAor, 
.  68 

,  70 
.  71 

.      77 

.  00 

02 

.  03 

.  01 
.  OT) 

,  102 
104 
10(5 
lOS 

,  111 
114 

,  115 
117 

,  120 
120 

,  124 
125 
120 
1?7 
131 
134 
141 
142 
144 
140 
154 
157 
160 
171 
175 
170 
170 
1S4 
1S7 
187 
188 
180 
102 
I'.tU 

,  200 
207 
20:) 
213 
213 


M 


CONTENTS. 


vii 


PAor 

.  08 

70 

.  71 

77 
.  00 

92 
.  93 

.  m 

102 
104 

im 

lOS 

111 
lit 
iir. 
117 
120 
120 
124 
125 
120 
1?7 
131 
134 
HI 
142 
144 
HO 
154 
157 
160 
171 
175 
179 
179 
184 
187 
187 
,188 
189 
92 
90 
00 
07 

o;» 
]:? 
13 


M 


ii 


^ 


novrr. 

82.  Lake  WiNNKrEsAt'KF.R  and  the  Sandwich  MorNTA.:NH  . 

1.  Oiitrr"  Harlxir  to  (-'oiiway 

2.  (  Ixii'orii.'i  and  OHsipeo 

83.  The  Wiiitf;  M.xntains  and  Nohth  Conway 

1.  Ndftli  Conway 

2.  Noitli  Conwny  to  the  Glen  Iloune  and  Gorham 

8.  Gorlmiii 

4.  Gorham  to  tho  Notch 

6.  North  Omway  to  the  Notch 

6.  The  Crawfonl  IIduho  to  the  Profile  Houso 

7.  Mount  WasliinKtoii 

84.  The  Fuanconia  Moi'ntainh  ani>  thij  pKMHiEWAHSET  Valley 

1.  Tli(!  I'rolllc  IIdiiso  to  Plymouth 

2.  Watervillt!  and  Caniptcm 

86.  Thk  Pkhc  y  Pkaks,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Lake  Umbaooo    . 

1.  Colcbrook  to  Umhagog  and  Rangeley      .... 

2.  Connecticut  Lake 

30.  Boston  to  Catk  Ann 

87.  Boston  to  Portland  and  St.  John 

1.  Pcahody,  Lowell,  and  Lawrence  Branches      .        . 

2.  Marlileheatl  Branch 

.S,  Essex  Branch 

4.  Anicsbury  Branch 

5.  The  Isles  of  Shoals 

6.  Portsmouth  to  Concord 

7.  Portland  and  its  Environs 

8.  Casco  Bay 

38.  Boston  to  Portland       .  

1.  Wakefield  to  Newburypi/.l 

2.  Lawrence  to  Lowell  or  Manchester  .... 

3.  Dover  to  Lake  Winnepesaukee     ...... 

39.  Portland  to  the  White  Mountains    ,        .        .        .    "    . 

1.  Lake  Sebago  ...  .        . 

40.  Portland  to  Quebec  and  ZIonxkeal 

1.  Mechanic  F.alls  to  Canton     ....... 

2.  Bethel  to  Lake  Umbagog .        . 

41.  Portland  to  Farmington  and  the  Western  Maine  Forest 

1.  Farmington  to  tlie  Rangeley  Lakes  

42.  Portland  to  the  Upper  Kennebec 

43.  Boston  or  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake 

44.  Portland  to  Rockland 

1.  Wiscasset  to  Boothbay 

2.  Daniariscott4i  to  Bristol  and  Pemaquid        .... 

45.  Portland  to  Mount  Desert . 

1.  Castine 

2.  Bar  Harbor 

3.  Southwest  Harbor 

4.  Mount  Desert  to  Machiasport  ..... 


PAOR 

215 

211) 
220 
221 
223 
225 
227 
229 
230 
233 
234 
238 
241 
242 
243 
244 
246 
245 
248 
255 
255 
267 
201 
265 
267 
27C 
274 
275 
276 
279 
282 
384 
284 
287 
287 
2S9 
291 
292 
293 
295 
297 
299 
299 
302 
302 
304 
300 
307 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE 

46.  Portland  '■o  Lkwjston  and  Banoor        .... 

47.  Pohtland  to  AiKiUsTA  AND  Banuor 

48.  Boston  to  Banuor.    The  rENonscoT  Riveh    . 

49.  BAXr.oR  ro  St.  John 

1.  Fredcrii'ton,  N.  B. 

1.  St.  John  Bi%'(-r 

50.  The  Ni;  v  Brunswick  Border,  Eastport  to  Madawaska 


PAOE 

C(>7 

,     31.8 
319 

321 


» 


THE  WESTERN  AND  NORTHERN  BORDERS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND. 

51.  New  York  City 32.'> 

1.  Ci;nt.-al  Park '.'.m 

2.  Brooklyn    .        .        .        , 3.1') 

62.  New  York  t  )  Aluany.    Thk  Hud-son  River 310 

1.  The  Il't'hlands 343 

2.  Tlie  Catskill  Monntain.s .".'7 

3.  Albany 348 

6.\,  Albany  to  Montreal 3.">0 

1.  Saratoga •        .  3.">0 

2.  Fort  Edward  to  Whitehall  or  Caldwell 3f)5 

3.  Lake  George 3.'J7 

4.  Lake  Chani])lain 3ul 

64.  Montreal  and  its  Environs 308 

1.  Lachine  Rapids      ..........        372 

2.  Victoria  Bridge 373 

55.  Montreal  to  Quebec.    The  St.  Lawrence  River         .       .       .       37;* 

56.  Quebec       .        .        - 375 

;  1.  Ste.  Anne  and  ChAtcau  Richer     .......       384 

2.  The  Saguenay  River 885 

MAPS. 

1.  Gcnf^ral  Map  of  New  England  .  in  porket. 

2.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Boston  :  in  pocket. 

3.  Mai>  of  Nahant. 

4.  Mail  of  Lake  W^innepesaukee. 

5.  5f  ap  of  the  White  and  Francouia  Mountains. 

6.  Map  of  the  Hudson  River. 

PLANS  OF  CITIES,  &c. 

Boston,   Hartford,  Montreal,  New  Haven,    New  York,    Newport,    Portland, 
Providence,  Quebec,  Central  Park,  Mount  Au'iurn  Cemetery. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

M.  =  mile  ;  hr.  =  hour  ;  min.  —  minute  ;  ft.  —  foot  or  feet ;  r.  =  righL ;  1.  =  left ; 
N.  =  north  ;  S.  =  south  ;  E.  =  east ;  W.  =  west. 

ASTERISKS 
denote  object';  deserving  of  special  attention. 


4 


I 


1 


^»  •<()»«*» 


PAr.E 
S07 
30!) 

Am 

.     318 
319 

r.2o 

321 


825 

33!) 
840 

343 
3' 7 
343 
850 
350 
3f)5 
357 

sai 

368 
372 
373 
37:1 
375 
384 
385 


NEW   ENGLAND. 


lland. 


left: 


i 


i 


"  Nobis  etomum  rdiqucnint  monnmentum, 
Novanglorum  inwiuu." 

"  Nova  Anglia"  :  n  Latin  poem  by  Morrdl,  1625. 

New  England  is  tho  northeastern  portion  of  the  United  States,  and 
comprises  the  States  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts, 
Connecticut,  r.^fl  Rhode  Island.  It  is  ]»ounded  on  the  S.  by  tlie  Atlantic 
Ocean  and  Long  Lsland  Sound,  OJi  the  W.  by  tlie  State  of  New  York,  on  the 
N.  by  the  Province  of  Quebec,  and  on  the  E.  l)y  the  province  of  New  Bruns- 
wick and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  lies  l)etween  the  latitudes  41°  and  48" 
N.  and  the  longitudes  67"  and  74°  W.  from  Greenwich,  and  has  an  area 
of  65,000  square  M.,  with  a  population  of  3,487,924  (census  of  1870). 
The  principal  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  which  has  190,473 
members;  the  Episcopal  Church  has  38,093;  and  the  Methodists  have 
70,000.  The  Catholics  and  the  Baptists  (114,000)  are  also  strong  in 
numbers,  while  Unitarianism  has  here  its  chief  power.  A  high  standard 
of  education  prevails  among  the  people,  and  is  supported  by  an  extensive 
school-system  an'i  '<everal  renowned  colleges.  The  New-Englanders  have 
always  been  di.sii.iguishe<l  for  a  marked  individuality  of  thought,  by 
reason  of  which  the  most  advanced  and  radical  schools  of  philosophy, 
politics,  and  religion  liave  arisen  or  have  been  dv;veloped  here.  The 
nature  of  the  climate  and  of  the  soil  has  rendered  agriculture  less 
profitable  tlian  at  the  West,  and  the  strength  of  the  section  has  been 
foxmd  in  the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  vast  ma!iufaoturing  indus- 
tries. The  coast  ertcnds  in  a  direct  line  for  over  700  M.,  with  many 
spacious  harbors ;  and  tlie  maritime  cities  are  celebrated  for  their  skilful 
seamen  and  for  their  large  fleets  of  merchant-ships.  This  district  was 
granted  by  James  L  to  t>e  Plymouth  Company  (in  1606)  under  the  name 
of  North  Virgiina;  but  Capt.  John  Smith,  having  surveyed  and  mapped 
the  •  oast  iu  1614,  gave  it  the  name  of  New  England. 

Maine 

is  bounded  ru  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  W.  by  N.  II.,  on  the  N.  by 
Canada,  and  on  the  E.  by  New  Brunswick.  It  is  the  most  northeastern  of 
the  United  States,  and  the  largest  of  the  States  of  New  England.  It  has 
an  area  of  31,766  square  M.,  with  a  population  of  626,915,  and  a  valuation 
of  $  223,254,860.    It  is  divided  into  16  counties,  and  has  13  small  citie;;, 


—  --^'^vw** 


MAINE. 


tlic  cliief  of  which  is  Portlaiirl,  while  the  capital  is  Augusta,  at  the  heacl 
of  ship-navigation  on  the  Kennebec  River.  The  coast  of  "  hunrlred-har- 
borccl  Maine"  is  reinarkaMy  picturesque,  with  deep  fiords  running  up 
between  bold  peninsulas,  and  with  archipelagos  of  beautiful  islands  resting 
in  quiet  and  extensive  bays.  The  direct  line  of  the  coast  from  Kittery 
Point  to  Quoddy  Head  is  278  M.,  but  the  deep  curves  of  the  bays  and 
estuaries  give  an  actual  shore-line  of  nearly  2,500  M,  Mt.  Desert  (60,000 
acres)  is  the  largest  of  the  many  islands  which  front  the  ocean,  and  Mon- 
hegan  is  the  most  distant  from  the  mainland.  The  great  rivers  Penoh- 
.scot,  Kennebec,  and  St.  Croix  empty  into  the  sea  on  this  coast,  and 
furnish  wide  and  convenient  harbors.  Nearly  J  of  the  area  of  Maine  i.s 
•still  covered  with  primeval  forests,  and  the  lumber-trade  is  the  chief 
industry  of  the  State.  The  trees  are  felled  and  hauled  to  the  wat*"-- 
courses  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  they  are  united  in  vast  rafts 
and  floated  down  to  the  river  cities.  In  the  S.  and  E.  of  the  great  forest 
is  a  broken  range  of  mountains,  the  loftiest  of  which  is  Mt.  Katahdin 
(5,385  ft.  high),  -jiy  of  Maine  is  covered  with  water,  the  i)riiicipal  lakes 
being  Moosehead,  Chesuncook,  and  the  Rangeley,  Madawaska,  and 
Schoodic  groups. 

The  Maine  coast  was  first  visited  by  Gosnold  in  160L;  and  in  1607  the 
short-lived  Sagadahoc  colony  settled  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec 
River.  The  French  colonies  at  the  St.  Croix  River  and  Mt.  Desert  were 
but  ephemeral,  and  several  other  attempts  proved  equally  unsuccessful, 
partly  owing  to  the  hostility  between  the  claimants  of  the  territory  (the 
French  and  English),  and  the  distrust  of  the  Indians  for  both  of  them. 
The  island  of  Monhegan  was  settled  in  1622,  and  Saco  was  founded  in 
1623.  When  the  Plymouth  Company  broke  up,  in  1635,  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges  received  by  royal  charter  the  pro^unce  of  Maine  (then  first  so 
called).  In  1642  his  son  founded  the  city  of  Gorgeana  (York),  but  in 
1651  Mass.  absorbed  Maine,  being  sustained  by  the  exigencies  of  the 
times  and  by  the  Puritan  Parliament  of  England.  After  some  resistance 
on  the  part  of  the  Maine  proprietors,  Mnss.  bought  out  their  interest,  and 
thenceforward  ruled  the  riortheni  province  fo^-  nearl^v  170  years  with  a 
linn  and  beneficial  sway.  From  1675  until  176')  a  disastrous  succession 
of  Indian  wars  ensued,  in  Avhich  every  twentieth  settler  >vas  killed  or 
cajitured  and  many  towns  were  destroyed.  The  bombardment  of  Port- 
land (1775)  and  the  naval  battle  at  Castine  (1779)  were  the  chief  events 
during  the  Revolution,  but  the  coast  was  badly  harried  during  the  "War 
of  1812.  In  1820  Maine  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  the  twenty- 
third  State. 

New  Hampshire 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  h     Mass.,  on  the  W.   by  Vt.,  on  the  N,  by  the 
proviiice  of  Quebec,  and     i  the  E.  by  Maine  and  the  Atlantic.     It  has  an 


If* 


4 


i 


T'-V'"^ 


NEW  HAMPSIIIRE      VERMONT. 


XI 


and 


area  cf  9,280  square  M.,  with  a  population  of  318,300,  and  a  valuation  of 
$  162,987,177.  It  is  (Jividert  into  10  counties,  with  234  towns  and  5  cities, 
and  the  capital  is  Concord,  on  the  Merrimac  River.  There  is  an  ocean- 
front  of  18  M.,  which  is  boruered  by  level  plains  stretching  inland,  whilo 
just  off  the  coast  are  the  remarkable  Isles  of  Shoals,  formerly  famed  for 
their  fisheries  and  now  a  favorite  summer-resort.  Beyond  the  sea-shore 
plains  the  country  assumes  a  more  rugged  and  broken  appearance,  with 
numerous  isolated  summits  and  hill-ranges  which  culminate  in  the  Wliitc 
Mts.,  covering  over  40  square  M.  of  a  picturesque  district  which  is  called 
*'the  Switzerland  of  America."  The  lakes  of  N.  H.  cover  110,000  acres, 
and  the  most  beautiful  of  their  number  is  Winnepesaukec,  which  has  69 
square  M.  of  extent,  and  contains  300  islands.  The  soil  of  the  State  is 
not  fertile,  but  it  has  much  mineral  wealth  ;  and  the  climate,  though 
severe,  is'  very  healthful.  There  are  extensive  primeval  forests  in  the  N. 
(CoiJs  County),  in  whose  recesses  wolves  and  bears  still  are  found  ;  and  the 
remote  lakes  and  streams  afford  fine  fishing.  The  Connecticut,  Saco,  and 
Merrimac  Rivers  have  their  sources  in  N.  H.,  and  on  the  water-power 
afforded  by  the  latter  large  manufacturing  cities  are  located.  There  are 
42  national  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $  5,13.5^000  ;  and  54  savings-banks, 
with  deposits  amounting  to  $  25,303,235.  The  manufactures  of  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  iron  and  leather,  are  the  cliief  mechanical  industries,  and 
centre  at  the  cities  of  Manchester  and  Nashua.  The  press  cf  the  State 
consists  of  8  daily  papers,  36  weeklies,  and  6  monthlies. 

Tiie  N.  H.  coast  was  first  visited  by  the  Europeans  in  1614,  and  settle- 
ments were  founded  at  Dover  and  Portsmouth  about  1323.  Tlie  district 
was  for  many  years  under  the  government  of  Mass.,  and  was  afterwards 
ceded  to  N.  Y.,  while  the  incessant  inroads  of  the  Indians  devastated  the 
frontiers  for  nearly  80  years.  The  chief  incidents  of  these  wars  were  the 
destruction  of  Dover  (1689),  and  the  battle  of  Pequawket.  In  1741  N.  H. 
became  a  royal  province,  and  in  1776  it  led  the  secession  from  the  British 
Empire,  giving  freely  of  its  men  and  money  to  the  cause  of  independence. 


I  the 
an 


d 


i 


Vermont 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Mass.,  on  the  W.  by  N.  Y.  and  Lake  Champlain, 
on  the  N.  by  Canada,  and  on  the  E.by  N.  H.  It  lias  an  area  of  9,056  M., 
with  a  population  of  330,551,  and  a  valuation  of  S  142,612,356.  It  is 
divided  into  14  counties,  and  has  but  2  small  cities,  the  great  majority  of 
the  people  being  engaged  in  farming.  The  centre  of  the  State  is  trav- 
ersed from  N.  to  S.  by  the  Green  Mts.,  whose  smootli  and  rounded  smu- 
mits  form  a  marked  contrast  with  tlie  sharp  ])eaks  of  the  White  Mts. 
The  chief  of  the  Groeii  Mts.  are  Mt.  Mansfield  (4,359  ft.),  Camel's  Hump 
(4,188  ft.),  Killington  and  Pico  Peaks,  and  Mt.  Ascutney.  The  E.  slope 
is  watered  by  several  stieams  which  flow  into  the  Connecticut  River, 


Xll 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


while  the  W.  slope  sinks  into  the  broad  and  fertile  i^lains  which  border 
Lake  Chaniplain  and  are  traversed  by  Otter  Creek  and  the  Winooski, 
Lamoille,  and  Missisquoi  Rivers.  The  Lakes  Memphremagog,  Willoughby, 
Dunniore,  Boniaseen,  and  St.  Catharine  are  pleasant  sununer-resorts,  and 
the  great  Lake  Chaniplain  affords  an  avenue  for  an  extensive  international 
commerce,  whose  chief  centre  is  tlie  port  of  Burlington.  The  evergreen 
forests  on  the  mountains  alternate  with  broad  pasture-plains,  and  the 
deciduous  groves  on  the  lowlands  are  interspersed  witli  tillage-fields  of  rich 
loamy  soil,  so  that  Vt.  has  become  the  most  agricultural  o*'  the  Northern 
States,  and  exceeds  all  others  (proportionally  to  iier  popiUation)  in  the 
proiluction  of  wool,  live  stock,  maple  sugar,  butter  and  cheese,  hay,  hops, 
and  potatoes.  In  1871  there  were  made  here  8,000  tons  of  butter,  2,400 
tons  of  cheese,  and  4,500  tons  of  maple-sugar.  Extensive  quarries  of  fine 
statuary  and  variegated  marble  and  serpentine  have  been  opened  in  the  S. 
counties,  end  vast  quantities  of  slate  have  been  exported  from  the  same 
region. 

The  first  European  who  saw  Vt.  was  Jacques  Cartier,  who,  in  1535, 
looked  upon  its  high  ridges  from  Mount  Royal  (Montreal).  Its  coast  was 
explored  by  Chaniplain  and  others  in  1609,  and  prosperous  French  settle- 
ments were  made  (in  Addison)  later  in  the  17th  century.  In  1724  Mass. 
built  Fort  Dunmier  (near  the  present  town  of  Brattleboro);  but  the  num- 
bers and  ferocity  of  the  Indians  prevented  colonization  until  after  the 
conquest  of  Canada  (1760).  The  territory  was  then  partly  occupied  under 
grants  from  N.  H.,  until  it  was  ceded  to  N.  Y. ;  and  thereafter  ensued  a 
controversy  in  which  the  settlers  successfully  resisted  the  authorities  of 
N.  Y.  imtil  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  when  they  proclaimed  Ver- 
mont ( Verts  Monts,  or  Green  Mts. )  an  independent  State.  Congress  twice 
refused  to  acknowledge  the  new  State,  although  its  soldiers  ("the  Green 
Mountain  Boys  ")  captured  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  and  annihilated 
the  flower  of  Burgoyne's  German  auxiliaries  at  tlie  battle  of  Bennington. 
In  1791,  after  paying  New  York  $30,000  in  liquidation  of  all  claims,  Vt. 
was  admitted  into  the  Union  (the  14th  State),  and  since  that  time  has 
prospered  and  steadily  increased  in  v.'ealth  and  population.  .-,>..  . 

Massachusetts 
is  bou..ded  on  the  S.  by  Conn,  and  R.  I.,  on  the  W.  by  N.  Y.,  on  the  N. 
by  Vt.  and  N.  H.,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  Atlantic.  It  has  an  area  of  7,800 
square  M.,  witn  1,457,351  inhabitants,  and  a  valuation  of  $2,132,148,741. 
The  soil  is  not  fertile,  but  considerable  crops  are  gained  by  careful 
cultivation  ;  and  the  best  land  is  found  in  the  valleys  of  the  Connecticut 
and  Housatonic  Rivers.  There  is  but  little  level  land  in  the  State,  and  in 
the  W.  counties  the  Taconic  and  Hoosac  Ranges  of  mountains  afford  great 
diversity  of  scenery.     The  Connecticut  River  flows  through  a  garden-lil^e 


I 

1* 


t 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


Xlll 


2,400 


IS,  Vt. 
le  has 


a 


«r 


0 


he  N. 

j 

7,800 

1 

^,741. 

ireful 

jticnt 

i 

nd  in 

great 

i 

i-lil\e 

f 

valley,  with  several  prosperous  towns  ;  and  the  Merriniac  (in  the  N.  E. ) 
affords  a  *'ast  water-power  to  Lowell  and  Lawrence,  and  ])asses  into  the 
sea  at  Newburyport.  The  climate  is  severe  in  the  hill-countries,  and  is 
very  variable  on  the  coast,  —  the  mean  temperature  being  between  44  ° 
and  51  °.  As  far  back  as  1C55  the  annual  farm  products  amounted  to  over 
.9  21 ,000,000,  and  at  that  time  the  State  had  2,250,000  apple-trees.  Profit- 
able beds  of  iron  ore  and  glass  sand  have  been  developed,  and  the  e.\porta- 
tion  of  marble  (from  Berkshire  County)  and  granite  (from  Quincy  and  Cape 
Ann)  has  become  a  lucrative  business.  The  State  has  been  celebrated  for 
the  nund)er  and  excellence  of  its  ships,  and  for  the  skill  and  enterprise  of 
its  seamen.  Granite,  ice,  and  fish  are  among  the  chief  articles  of  export  ; 
the  latter  being  brought  in  by  the  large  fishing-fleets  of  Cape  Cod  and 
Gloucester.  The  manufacturing  interests  of  the  State  are  of  immense 
extent  and  wide  variety,  and  their  products  for  the  year  1870  were  valued 
at  $550,000,000,  Boots  and  shoes,  cotton  goods,  woollens,  iron,  and  paper, 
are  the  chief  manufactures  (named  in  the  order  of  their  importance). 
There  are  160  savings-banks,  with  deposits  amounting  to  $163,535,943. 
In  1871  the  State  debt  was  $  29,630,364,  of  which  $12,000,000  was  for 
railroad  loans,  and  $  16,500,000  represented  the  unpaid  balance  of  the  war 
loan. 

The  prevailing  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  the  Baptist,  Meth- 
odist, and  Unitarian  churches  being  also  strong,  while  the  Roman  Catholics 
are  rapidly  attaining  gi'eat  power  and  influence.  The  educational  insti- 
tutions of  the  State  are  admirably  airanged  and  have  a  high  reputation, 
their  efficiency  being  assured  by  the  maintenance  of  four  normal  schools, 
five  colleges,  and  Harvanl  University.  The  militia  is  kept  in  a  state  of 
high  efficiency  and  discipline,  and  is  mostly  composed  of  veterans  of 
the  War  of  1861 -5.  ^'  ••::.•  ..^     ,.. 

The  coast  of  Mass.  was  first  visited  by  the  Norwegian  mariners  Leif  and 
Thorwald,  about  the  year  1000.  After  several  attempts  at  colonization, 
which  were  frustrated  by  the  powerful  native  tribes,  the  Norsemen  aban- 
iloncd  tlie  country  (which,  from  its  fniitfulness,  they  had  named  Vinland), 
In  1497  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot  cruised  along  the  coast,  and  were  fol- 
lowed by  Cortereal,  Verrazzani,  and  Gomez.  In  1602  Gosnold  explored 
the  S.  E.  islands,  and  planted  an  ephemeral  colony  on  Cuttyhunk,  near 
New  Bedford.  Pring,  Chamjjlain,  and  Weymouth  soon  after  passed  along 
the  coast,  while  Capt.  John  Smith,  following  them  in  1614,  made  a  map 
of  the  coast  and  islands.  Dec.  21,  1620,  the  ship  "Mayliower"  an-ived 
at  Plymouth  with  102  Pilgrims,  who  had  been  driven  from  England  by 
religious  persecution,  and  who  founded  here  the  first  permanent  colony  in 
Mass.  Salem  was  settled  in  1628,  and  Boston  in  1630,  by  Puritan  exiles, 
and  the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  Connecticut  valley  were  soon  dotted  with 
villages  of  bold  and  hardy  immigrants. 


XIV 


CONNECTICUT. 


The  Peqnot  War  (1637)  and  King  Philip's  War  (1075-6)  c.insed  a  fear- 
ful loss  of  lif(!  and  proi^'rty,  and  several  of  the  valley  towns  were  utterly 
destroyed  before  the  colonial  forces  could  crush  the  insurgent  tribes.  In 
1689  the  jtrovince  revolted  against  the  royal  authorities,  and  the  country- 
})eo|»!e  took  IJoston  and  its  fortifications  and  guard -frigat(%  and  imprisoned 
tiie  governor  (Sir  l*>lniund  Andros).  In  1692  I'lynioiith  was  united  to 
Rlassachusc^tts,  and  thereafter,  until  the  (ron(iuest  of  Canada  in  17(50,  the 
])nn'ince  was  foremost  in  the  wars  with  the  French  colonies  in  the  N. 
Many  of  her  towns  were  destroyed  by  Indian  raids,  and  the  W.  frontier 
was  nearly  depo])ulated;  but  tiie  general  prosperity  was  unchecked,  and 
■when  the  British  Parliament  commenced  its  unjust  ojjpressions,  the  prov- 
ince had  250,000  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  were  trained  veterans  of  the 
Canadian  Wars.  In  face  of  the  royal  army  which  had  been  moved  into 
lU)ston,  the  men  of  Massachusetts  opened  corresi)ondences  which  brought 
about  a  colonial  \inion  for  mutual  defence,  and  enrolled  themselves  as 
minute-men,  ready  to  march  against  the  British  troops  at  a  minute's 
notice.  The  battles  of  Concord  and  Lexington  were  followcid  by  a  general 
a])pcal  to  arms;  and  the  siege  of  Boston,  the  Battle  of  Bimker  Hill,  and 
the  American  occupation  of  the  city  came  in  rapid  succession.  After 
these  events  the  scene  of  war  was  transferred  to  New  York  an<l  the  South, 
where  the  Massachus(!tts  regiments  won  high  honor,  especially  in  the 
victorious  campaign  against  Burgoyne's  invading  army.  In  1780  the  State 
Constitution  was  framed,  and  in  1786  a  serious  revolt  occurred  in  the  W. 
counties,  caused  by  the  pressure  of  enormous  taxes.  This  rising  (which 
■was  headed  by  Daniel  Shays)  was  put  down  after  a  few  skirmishes.  In 
tlie  War  of  1812  the  State  theoretically  confined  her  exertions  to  the  de- 
fence of  her  own  coast,  though  thousands  of  her  seamen  entered  the 
national  navy.  Extensive  manufacturing  interests  now  rose  rapidly  into 
view,  and  a  network  of  railroads  was  stretched  across  the  State.  During 
tiie  War  for  the  Union  (1861-5)  Massachusetts  put  forth  her  utmost 
strength,  and  gave  158,380  men  to  the  armies  of  the  Republic,  besides 
incurring  a  war-debt  of  over  1 50,000,000. 


Connectiont 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Long  Island  Sound,  on  the  W.  by  New  York,  on 
the  N.  by  Mass.,  and  on  the  E.  by  R.  I.  It  has  an  area  of  4,730  square 
M.,  with  537,454  inhabitants,  and  a  valuation  of  $  532,951,061.  There  are 
8  counties,  160  towns,  and  7  cities.  The  soil  is  usually  rugged  and  com- 
paratively unpro<luctive,  although  the  river- valleys  afford  some  rich  lands, 
and  considerable  crops  are  raised  by  laborious  cultivation.  The  tobacco- 
crop  of  1870  amounted  to  8,328,798  pounds,  and  in  the  same  year  were 
made  6,716,007  pounds  of  butter  and  563,328  tons  of  hay.  "The  manu- 
factures of  the  State  are  more  general,  multifaiious,  and  productive  tlmn 


CONNECTICUT. 


XV 


•f 


t 


those  of  any  otlicr  people  of  similar  means,"  —  clocks  ami  carriages,  fire- 
ariiis,  tin  and  brittania  ware,  sewinj^-nuicliiiies,  iron  and  rubber  poo<ls 
being  the  chief  articles  of  }»roduction.  Thtro  are  GG  savings-banks,  ^vith 
deposits  amounting  to  S  55,2!)7,705,  and  many  wealthy  and  pov  rful 
insurance  companies.  New  Haven  has  a  lucrative  West  India  trade, 
while  New  London  has  a  considerable  number  of  vessels  engaged  in  sealing 
and  whaiing.  The  Conn.  River  is  famous  for  its  valuable  (isheries,  which 
have  been  revived  by  stocking  the  stream  (18G7-70)  with  151,000,000 


young  shad. 


The  chief  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  antl  the  Episcopal  Church 
has  more  strength  here  than  in  any  other  State  (proportionidly  to  the 
])Opulation).  There  are  three  colleges,  Yale  (Cong.),  Trinity  (Epis. ),  and 
Wesleyan  (Melh.),  with  4  schools  of  theology.  The  educational  interests 
of  the  State  are  well  and  elliciently  carried  on,  under  the  supjuM't  of  the 
great  funds  derived  from  the  sale  of  the  Western  Reserve  lands.  The 
charitable  and  correctional  institutions  of  the  State  are  remarkable  for 
their  inlluence  and  efficiency.  The  ingenuity,  enterprise,  and  individuality 
of  the  men  of  Conn,  have  given  them  an  advanced  jdace  in  the  mercantile 
and  political  activities  of  t.ie  Republic;  and  "probably  no  country  of 
similar  extent  has  sent  abroad  .so  vast  a  horde  of  emigrants  in  projiortiou 
to  its  population." 

The  coast  and  rivers  of  Conn,  were  first  explored  by  Adrian  Block 
and  other  Dutch  mariners  (1614-33);  the  district  was  in  the  English 
Plymouth  Patent  of  1G20,  and  was  chartered  in  1631.  About  that  tinie 
the  river  Indians  were  subjugated  by  the  Pequots,  and  Seguin,  their  chief, 
sent  to  New  York,  Plymouth,  and  Boston  for  help.  In  1633  a  small 
Dutch  colony  landed  at  Hartford;  and  in  the  same  year  a  Plymouth  vessel 
passed  up  to  Windsor,  where  a  settlement  was  planted.  These  were 
merely  trading-posts,  but  Wethersfield  was  occupied  in  1634,  and  in  1636 
three  nomadic  churches  were  led  by  their  pastors  tlnough  the  wiMerness 
from  Boston  to  the  Coini.  River,  where  they  settled  at  Hartford,  Windsor, 
and  Wethersfield.  Say  brook  was  founded  and  fortitied  in  163.5,  and  in 
1637  the  first  legislature  declared  war  against  the  Pequot  Indians,  wlio 
were  defeated  and  speedily  crushed  by  the  colonial  train -bands,  aided  by 
the  friendly  tribes.  In  April,  1638,  New  Haven  was  settled,  and  soon 
after  the  other  coast-towns  were  founded.  In  1639  a  remarkable  consti- 
tution (which  aclaiowledged  no  higher  human  power  than  the  people  of 
Conn.)  was  adopted,  and  in  1662  a  royal  charter  was  ol)tained.  After  the 
union  of  the  independent  colonies  of  Conn.  (Hartfonl)  and  New  Haven,  in 
1665,  the  two  towns  were  made  send-cai)itals  of  the  province  (and  State), 
and  so  remained  luitil  1873,  when  Hartford  was  made  the  sole  capital. 
The  State  stood  honorably  among  the  foremost  during  the  Revolution, 
although  the  towns  along  the  coast  were  pillaged  and  destroyed  by  raids 
from  the  Hessian  and  Tory  garrison  at  New  York. 


XVI 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


Rhode  Island 

is  boiiiidc'd  oil  the  S.  ]ty  tl»e  Atlantic,  on  tlu!  W,  by  Conn,,  and  on  the  N. 
and  E.  by  Mass,  It  is  the  sninUcst  State  in  the  Union,  an<l  lias  an  area 
of  1,046  s(iuare  M.,  with  217,'5r):5  inhabitants,  and  a  valuation  of  .$  2U6,9(35,- 
G4G,  There  are  5  counties,  with  32  towns,  and  2  cities.  The  soil  is  un- 
jinxluctive,  and  but  little  fanning  is  done  save  on  the  fertile  ])lains  of  the 
Island  of  Aijuidiieck.  The  State  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  Narragansett 
Bay,  wliich  runs  inland  for  30  M.  (with  a  width  of  3-12  M.),  and  contains 
several  islands,  the  chief  of  which  is  Aijuidiieck  (or  Rhode  Island)  on 
whose  S.  end  is  the  famous  suninier-resort,  Newport.  11  M.  S.  E.  of 
Point  Judith  is  Block  Island,  which  pertains  to  this  State.  The  climate 
is  mild  and  ecjuable,  from  its  vicinity  to  the  sea  and  exposure  to  the  S. ; 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  State  is  a  region  of  low  hills  or  sea-shore  plains. 
The  lU'incipal  mechanical  industries  are  at  Providence,  Pawtucket,  Woon- 
socket,  and  Westerly  ;  and  as  far  back  as  1S(J0  the  State  reported  1,200 
manufacturing  establishments,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $24,380,000, 
using  annually  $24,410,000  worth  of  raw  material,  and  producing  over 
S  50,000,000  worth  of  goods.  The  33  savings-banks  of  the  State  hold  in 
dei)osit  $30,289,703.  1'he  charitable  and  correctional  institutions  are 
mostly  about  Providence,  where  is  also  the  seat  of  Brown  University,  a 
nourishing  school  under  the  care  of  the  Baptist  Church,  "which  is  the 
l)revailing  sect  in  the  State. 

Rhode  Island  was  probably  colonized  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  10th  and 
11th  centuries,  but  was  afterwards  abandoned  for  centuries,  until  the 
coining  of  Verrazzani  in  1524.  He  remained  at  Aquidneck  (which  was  then 
thickly  I'opulated  by  Indians)  for  two  weeks.  In  163G  Roger  Williams, 
having  been  banished  from  Mass.,  came  down  the  Seekonk  River  with  5 
eumpanions,  and  founded  a  .settlement  which  he  named  Providence,  in 
acknowledgment  of  "  God's  merciful  providence  to  him  in  his  distress." 
Ill  1638  Wm.  Coddiiigton  and  another  party  of  exiles  founded  Newport  ; 
in  1642  a  third  banished  company  settled  at  Warwick ;  and  in  1643  and 
1663  these  colonies  united  under  a  royal  charter.  The  powerful  Narra- 
gansett Indians  dwelt  in  Rhode  Island,  and  when  King  Philip's  War 
broke  out  they  ravaged  all  the  outlying  settlements  and  killed  many  of 
the  colonists.  The  New  England  colonies,  ignoring  the  existence  of  heret- 
ical Rhode  Island,  and  rejecting  its  advice,  matched  an  army  across  to 
tho  Narragansett  country,  and,  after  a  terrific  assault,  stormed  the  Indian 
stronghold  and  crushed  the  tribe.  The  little  province  gave  freely  of  her 
men  and  money  in  the  French  wars,  and  sent  some  of  the  best  troops  to 
the  American  siege  of  Boston.  In  Dec,  1776,  Newport  was  taken  by  the 
British,  who  held  it  for  3  years,  but  were  prevented  by  the  New  England 
militia  from  passing  farther  into  '.;he  country.  In  1861  the  men  of  Rhode 
Island  were  among  the  first  to  reach  the  imperilled  national  capital. 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.  Language. 

The  people  of  New  England  claim  that  they  speak  the  English  lan- 
guage more  correctly  than  it  is  spoken  elsewhere  in  the  world.  Be  this 
as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  this  one  language  is  universally  used  through- 
out the  six  States,  and  the  traveller  is  delivered  from  the  trouble  caused 
in  Great  Britain  by  its  four  languages  and  numerous  dialects,  or  in  France 
by  its  three  languages  and  provincial  ^j«^n"s.  The  European  tongues  are 
taught  in  tlie  higli-schools  ail  over  thi  country,  but  the  instruction  is 
purely  theoretical,  and  the  number  who  can  talk  French,  German,  or  Ital- 
ian is  very  small.  Tourists,  who  wish  to  travel  among  the  remoter  dis- 
tricts of  New  England,  should  be  well  acquainted  with  the  language, 
which  is  "the  English  of  Elizabeth,"  with  a  few  local  idioms. 

II.    Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Since  the  war  for  the  Union  (1861  -  65)  gold  and  silver  coin  has  disap- 
peared from  circulation,  and  been  rei)laced  by  U.  S.  Treasury  notes  and 
National  Bank  bills  for  values  upwards  of  one  dollar,  and  by  fractional 
currency  issued  by  the  Treasury,  of  the  values  of  10,  15,  25,  and  50  cts. 
Nickel  and  mixed  coins  of  1,  2,  3,  and  5  cts.  value,  abound.  This  paper 
currency  is  at  a  discount  for  gold  of  from  10  to  15  per  ct.  The  cur- 
rency of  Canada  is  either  coin  or  paper  at  a  coin  value. 

It  is  more  expensive  to  travel  in  New  England  than  in  any  part  of 
Western  Europe.  The  usual  charge  per  day  at  the  best  hotels  is  $  4  to 
$  4.50,  with  considerable  reductions  when  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  one 
place.  Tourists  who  travel  slowly  through  the  country  and  stop  at  the 
less  pretentious  hotels  (which  are  usually  comfortable,  and  always  sale) 
may  easily  limit  their  expenses  to  $  25  or  $  30  per  week.  Those  who  fre- 
quent hotels  of  the  highest  class,  and  indulge  much  in  carriage-riding, 
will  find  $  45  to  $  50  per  week  none  too  much.  At  most  of  the  sea-beaches 
board  can  be  secured  at  $  10  or  ^15  per  week  ;  while  in  the  quieter  and 
less  fashionable  villages  about  the  mountains,  substantial  fare  may  be 
found  in  broad  old  farm-houses,  for  $6  to  $10  per  week. 

III.    Bailways  and  Steamboats. 

Railway  travelling  in  America  is  much  more  comfortable,  yet  more  ex- 
pensive and  dangerous,  than  in  the  Old  World.    There  is  but  one  class  of 


LNTUODLXTION. 


tickets,  tlie  average  faros  Leiiig  al)out  three  cts.  a  mile.  On  each  train  is 
a  smoking-car,  easily  acceiisible  from  the  other  cars,  uud  fitted  with  tables 
for  car<i-i)laying.  It  is  prudent  to  decline  playing  with  strangers,  as 
gamblers  sometimes  practice  their  arts  here,  in  spite  of  the  watchfulness 
of  the  ollicers  of  the  train.  To  nearly  every  through  train  on  the  grand 
rontes  is  attached  one  or  more  Pullman  cars,  which  are  richly  carpeted 
and  curtained,  and  ])rofusely  furnished  with  sofas,  easy-cluurs,  tables, 
mirrors,  and  frojited  with  broad  plate  glass  windows.  These  cars  being 
w(!ll  balanced  and  runiang  on  twelve  wheels,  glide  over  the  rails  with 
great  ease.  By  night  they  are  ingeniously  changed  into  sleeping-rooms, 
with  comfortable  beds.  The  extra  fares  on  the  i)alace  cars  are  coUecteil 
hymen  attached  to  them;  the  price  of  a  night's  lodging  (in  which  time 
one  can  go  from  lioston  to  New  York)  is  §2.  The  fares  by  steamboat  are 
somewhat  lower  than  by  rail,  and  (in  case  of  a  niglit  passage)  include  a 
sleeping-berth  in  the  lower  saloon,  but  generally  tlo  not  include  meals. 
A  state-room  in  the  up])er  cabin  costs  extra,  hut  insures  better  air  and 
greater  comfort  and  privacy.  State-rooms  (in  the  sunnner  season)  should 
be  secured  in  ailvance  at  the  company's  olhce  in  New  York,  Boston,  or 
Portland.  Great  lines  of  stages  still  run  among  the  mountains  and  in  the 
remote  rural  districts.  Persons  travelUng  by  this  way,  in  pleasant  weather, 
should  try  to  get  a  seat  on  the  outside. 

The  (Jhcck  System.  —  The  traveller,  having  bought  a  ticket  for  his  des- 
tination, shows  his  heavy  baggage  (trunks,  &c.)  to  the  baggage-master, 
who  attaches  a  small  numbered  brass  plate  to  each  i)iece  with  a  leather 
thong,  and  gives  to  the  traveller  a  check  for  each  piece  of  baggage,  simi- 
lar in  form  and  number  to  that  appended  to  such  piece.  The  railroad 
now  becomes  responsible  (within  certain  limits  of  weight  and  value)  for 
the  baggage,  which  is  to  be  given  up  only  on  the  presentation  of  the  du- 
plicate check  which  is  in  tlie  traveller's  possession.  Trunks  may  be  thus 
despatched  from  Boston  to  Montreal,  Boston  to  Chicago,  &c.,  without 
trouble,  and  if  their  owner  is  delayed  on  the  route,  they  are  stored  safely 
at  their  destined  station  until  he  calls.  On  presentation  of  the  check  at 
tlie  baggage-room  of  the  station  to  which  the  baggage  has  been  sent,  it  is 
given  up  to  the  owner,  or  his  hotel  porter.  The  large  liotels  have  coaches 
at  the  railroad  stations,  on  the  arrival  of  through  trains,  and  their  porters 
will  take  the  duplicate  checks,  get  the  trunks  and  carry  them  to  the  hotel. 


«» 


^ 


IV.    Excursions  on  Foot. 

It  is  remarkable  that  pedestrianism  has  never  been  popular  in  this 
country.  The  case  and  perfect  freedom  of  this  mode  of  travelling,  its 
highly  beneficial  physical  effects,  the  leisure  thus  afforded  in  which  to 
study  the  beautiful  scenery  in  otherwise  remote  and  inaccessible  dis- 
tricts, all  mark  this  as  one  of  the  most  profitable  and  pleasant  modes  of 


•> 


in 


9 


INTKUDUCTION.  3 

summer  recreation.  To  walk  two  hundred  iiiiK-s  in  a  fortnight  is  an  easy 
thiiit,',  and  it  'h  intinitely  more  refri'shing  tor  a  man  of  sedentary  habits 
tiian  the  ,  tuie  length  of  time  sjtciit  in  lying  <»n  tlu-  sands  of  some  luiach, 
or  iilling  in  a  farm-house  among  the  hills.  "  For  a  tour  of  two  or  three 
weeks,  a  coui)le  of  flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers, 
and  the  articles  of  the  toilet,  carried  in  a  pouch  slung  over  the  shoulder, 
will  generally  be  found  a  suflicitnt  ecpiipment,  to  which  a  light  overcoat 
and  a  stout  umbrella  may  bo  adiUsd,  Strong  and  well-tried  boots  an? 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be 
avoided;  a  light  ])ouch,  or  game-bag,  is  far  less  irksome,  and  its  position 
may  bo  shifted  at  pleasure."  —  Baeukkku,  One  or  two  books  might  be 
added  to  this  list,  and  a  reserve  of  clothing  may  be  sent  on  in  a  light  valise, 
at  a  trifling  cost,  to  the  town  which  is  the  ])edestrian's  objective  point. 

It  would  bo  well  fur  inexperienced  walkers  to  begin  at  eight  to  ten 
miles  a  <lay,  and  gradually  increase  to  sixteen  to  eighteen  miles,  or  six 
hours'  walking.  During  the  heats  of  summer  the  travelling  .shouhl  bo 
done  at  early  morning  and  late  afternoon,  thus  spending  the  hottest  part 
of  the  day  in  coolness  and  rest.  The  best  time  for  a  i)edestrian  tour  is 
between  late  September  and  late  October,  when  the  sky  is  clear  and  the 
air  bracing,  —  the  season  of  the  reai)ing  of  harvests,  the  rijjening  of  fruits, 
and  the  splendor  of  the  reddening  forests. 

Among  the  most  interesting  districts  in  New  England  for  the  pedes- 
trian, the  following  may  be  mentioned:  The  picturesque  valleys,  lakes, 
and  mountains  of  Berkshire  County,  Mass.;  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut 
from  Springfield  to  Oreenllold  ;  the  ocean-surrounded  arm  of  sand.  Cape 
Cod,  with  its  (piaint  and  salty  old  villages  (Thoreau's  "  Cape  Cod  "  is  the 
best  guide  there)  ;  the  lake  region  of  New  Hampshire  ;  the  White  and 
Franconia  Mountains  (frequently  explored  by  walking  parties  from  the 
colleges  during  the  summer  vacation);  and  in  Maine,  the  romantic  Islanci 
of  Mount  Desert.  The  east  bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  from  New  York 
to  Albany,  affords  a  walk  of  rare  interest,  anil  the  west  shore  of  Lake 
George  presents  a  short  walk  through  peerless  scenery.  But  the  most  in- 
teresting ramble  is  from  Quebec  through  the  C6t6  de  Montmorenci  to 
Cape  Tormente,  there  crossing  tiie  St.  Lawrence,  vnd  passing  down  the 
south  shore  through  the  quaint  old  Norman  Catholic  villages  of  Mout- 
magny,  L'Lslet,  and  Kamouraska.  This  route  can  be  traversed  only  by 
an  experienced  traveller  who  is  well  posted  in  French.  There  are  but 
very  few  hotels  in  this  ancient  and  primitive  district. 

V.    Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  United  States  will  certainly  bear  comparison  with 
those  of  any  other  country.  The  European  plan  has  been  adopted  in  many 
of  them  (as  Parker's,  at  Boston ;  the  St.  Julian,  at  Portland),  while  in 
many  others  it  is  used  in  combination  with  the  American  plan, — $4  to 


'"•■■•^  '•**H  ^ 


4  *  INTIIODUCTION. 

84.60  per  day  at  tlif  iiion;  fushioimble  liouseN,  $2.M  lo  $4  per  day  at  tlio 
coiiifortahle  liotils  of  the  siiialler  citie.s,  and  ."?  l.r»0  to  ^2.50  per  day  in 
the  smaller  houses  in  the  rural  distri(;tH,  are  the  ehar^'es  whieh  eover  all 
ordinary  re(|uirenients.  No  costly  array  of  sundries  and  extras  is  at- 
tached to  the  bill,  and  the  practice  of  feein},'  the  servants  has  never 
obtained  to  any  extent,  nor  has  it  been  found  necessary. 

VI.  Bound -Trip  Excursions. 
Duriii}?  the  sununer  and  early  fall  the  railroads  i)repare  series  of  ex- 
cursion tickets  at  greatly  reduced  rates.  Infornuition  and  lists  of  these 
routes  may  be  obtained  from  the  central  ollices  in  IJoston.  The  otlice 
of  the  Iloosac  Tunnel  Uoute  (to  Saratoga,  &,e.)  is  at  G9  Washington  St., 
Boston  ;  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  lliver  Railroad  is  at  87  Wash- 
ington St.;  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Mon*^^real  is  at  5  State  St.;  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railroad  is  at  l.'}4  Washington  St.;  where  is  also  the  pas- 
senger oliice  of  Ihe  Eastern  Railroad  (to  Portland,  the  Eastern  Provinces, 
and  the  White  Mountains)  conducted  by  Geo.  F.  Field,  Escj.  The  Ver- 
mont Central  Ptailroad  (office  G5  Washington  St.)  publishes  a  twenty-four 
page  book  of  round  excursions  (with  tlieir  prices)  to  every  part  of  New 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  the  Province  of  Quebec,  Eastern  New  York,  and 
also  to  Niagara  Falls,  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  and  Dulutli. 

VII.    Climate  and  Dress. 

The  climate  of  New  England  is  subject  to  the  most  sudden  and  severe 
changes,  from  heat  to  cold  or  from  cold  to  heat.  The  summers  are 
usually  much  hotter  and  the  wintei-s  much  colder  than  in  England,  and 
during  the  latter  season  great  falls  of  snow  are  frequent.  The  summer 
Bun  is  often  fatal  in  its  power,  and  long  exposure  to  its  vertical  rays  should 
be  avoided.  At  the  same  time  wanu  clothing  shoiilil  be  kept  at  hand, 
and  woollen,  or  at  least  heavy  cotton,  underclothing  should  be  worn,  in 
order  to  guard  against  the  sudden  changes  which  are  so  frequent. 


<.■»•  ■•^•* 


VIII.    Miscellaneous  Notes. 

Passports  are  of  no  use  in  the  United  States  in  time  of  peace. 

The  examination  of  luggage  at  the  Canadian  frontier  and  at  the  ocean- 
ports  is  usiially  very  lenient,  and  conducted  in  a  courteous  manner. 

Traffic  is  made  easy  from  the  fact  that  fixed  charges  exist  in  the  shops, 
and  the  tiresome  processes  of  chaffing  and  beating  down  are  unnecessary. 

There  are  no  professional  guides  in  New  England,  but  the  people  are 
prompt  and  willing  to  answer  all  civilly  put  questions.  Gentlemen  from 
abroad  will  remember  that  there  is  here,  especially  in  the  country,  no  class 
oi  self-recoynized  peasantry,  and  that  a  haughty  question  or  order  will 
often  provoke  a  reply  couched  in  all  "  the  native  rudeness  of  the  Saxou 
tongue." 


NEW  ENGLAND  HANDBOOK. 


I 


1.    Boston. 

Hotels.  Tlioso  In  tlie  lionrt  «if  the  city  arc  iiKwt  rnnvrniVntly  HUnntrd.  Trf- 
mrint  lldiisc  (PI.  18),  on  Treiuoiit  Ht.,  conuir  of  ncacoii,  and  tlio  *  UiH'crc  Hoiimh 
(IM.  H),  on  Howdoin  Hq.,  aic  lai';,'(',  ('(inmiodious  hotels,  i.viir  tlic  Htato  House,  and 
carried  on  liy  the  .same eoinpiiny.  Tlie  ^  Arneriean  IFoiise(l'l.  I'>),  on  Hanover  Ht.., 
is  ft  lar},'e  and  eU'j^ant  Urownstoiie  structure,  with  :J(K)  rooms.  l{<iard  at  ■':<4t«) 
!?4.5()|)er  day.  *The  Parker  House  (I'l.  l'.»),  i.  nobh?  niarltle  l»uildinK  on  Hehoid 
^St.,  opjiosite  Kin;;'s  Chapel  and  the  (Mty  Hall,  is  kept  on  the  Knro|>e,in  plan,  and 
is  a  famous  resort  of  the  young  men  of  New  Kngland.  Youiir's  Hotel  (I'l.  'JO), 
Court  Ave,  is  on  the  Europt-an  plan,  and  is  mueli  resorted  to  by  city  merchants. 

The  following  hotels  are  less  expensive  :  Adams  House  (IM.  'JH),  ;i71  Wasliingtoii 
St.,  «3;  Marllw^ro'  Hotel  (IM.  2(().  2--'7  and  22'.)  Washington  Htreet ;  Sherman 
House;  Temple  House,  liowdoiu  Mq.  ;  Milliken's  (^IM.  22),  Washington  Ht. 
Near  tlie  great  Northern  railroad  stations  are  the  Arlington  Hou-se  (Kuiopean 
l)lan)  and  National  Hou.se.  opiumite  the  Alljany  Railroad  HtJition  is  the  exten- 
sive United  States  Hotel  (IM.  3;i).  In  Brattle  Ht.  arc  the  City  Hotel  and  the  Quiney 
Hou.se. 

At  the  Snvth  End.  —  "*  St.  .lames  Hotel,  on  Franklin  Sq.,  n.  viust  ami  elegant 
struoture,  400  guests,  .'J  4  a  day,  )?  15  to  ?( 25  a  week.  *  Commonwealth  Hotel,  a 
new  marble  building  on  Washi.igton  St.,  stretching  from  Worcester  to  Hjmng- 
field  Ht,  200  to  2.50  guests,  !J4  a  day.  Also  on  Washington  St.,  the  Krskin«\ 
liftneaster,  Everett,  Warwick,  ami  St.  Denis  Houses  ;  and  on  Tremont  St.,  the 
Clarendon  and  the  Ht.  Cloud, —smaller  and  le.ss  expensive  houses. 

The  French  system  of  Iloteh  (Uirnis  in  its  various  forms  is  very  popular  in 
Boston.  The  prin(;ij>al  hotels  of  this  class  (with  family  suites)  are  the  Evan.s 
House,  175  Tremont,  and  the  Hotel  Pelham,  corner  Tremont  and  Bovlston  Streets, 
both  fnmting  on  the  Common.  Ojiposite  this,  the  superb  Hotel  Boylston,  one  of 
the  noblest  buihlings  in  the  city.  The  Hotels  Berkeley  and  Kempton,  and  tlio 
Hotel  Hamilton  (on  Commonwealth  Ave.),  at  the  West  End,  and  the  Hotels  Flor- 
ence, Bradford,  &e.,  at  the  South  End,  are  of  this  class.  The  Norfolk  House  (iu 
Roxbury)and  the  Maverick  House  (in  East  Boston)  are  large,  quiet,  and  inexpen- 
sive suburban  hotels. 

RegtaurantSt  —  *  Parker  House  (with  ladies'  dining-room  attached),  famous 
for  its  excellent  dinners.  (Charles  Dickens  called  Parker's  the  best  liotel  iu 
America.)  *  Young's,  near  Old  Stiite  House,  with  an  elegant  dining-hall,  much 
patronized  for  society  and  festal  dinners.  *  Charles  Copeland's,  4  Tremont  Row,  — 
a  dainty  saloon,  frescoed  and  fountained,  much  visited  by  ladies.  The  Copeland 
restaurants  at  208  W^ashington  St.,  and  128  Tremont  St.,  opposite  Park  St., 
are  frequented  by  ladies.  Higgins's,  120  Court  St.,  is  famous  for  fine  oystei-s. 
Wilson's  Lane,  Spring  Lane,  Brattle  St.,  and  the  vicinity,  abound  in  gootl  eating- 
houses,  liager  Beer  may  ]»e  had  at  many  German  saloons  throughout  the 
city.  Ice-creams  and  confections  at  Copeland's,  Fera's  (343  Washington 
St.),  Southmayd's,  Webers,  &c. 

Billiard- Rooms.  —  The  finest  hall  of  the  kind  in  New  England  is  on  Wasli- 
ington  St.,  near  the  Boylston  Market.  The  Revere  billiard-rooms,  near  Bow- 
doin  Sq.,  are  large  and  brilliant.  Artemus  Ward's  quaint  saying  ia  well  known, 
—  that  Harvard  College  is  located  in  the  billiard-room  of  the  Parker  House.  Other 
comfortable,  though  smaller  rooms  are  scattered  through  the  city. 

Baths.  —  Turkish,  sulplmr-fumc,  and  electro-chemical,  rear  of  the  Marlboro' 


Route 


BOSTON. 


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Hotel,  231  Washington  St.    Turkish  baths,  1427  Washington  St.,  17  Beacon  St. 
Bath-rooms  in  the  hotels. 

Readlns-Koomg  (open  evenings  also).  In  the  Public  Library  are  the  prin- 
cipal European  iieriodicals,  and  a  large  number  of  American  papers,  &c.  —The 
Young  Men's  Christian  Union  (300  Washington  St.)  and  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association  (comer  Tremont  and  Eliot  Sts.)  have  large  and  well-supplied 
reading-rooms,  free  t  'i  all.  An  introduction  from  a  member  is  necessary  for 
entrance  to  the  Athena-um  reading-rooms.  Most  of  the  hotels  devote  a  room  to 
numerous  lilcs  of  the  newspapcre  of  the  day. 

Theatres.  -  The  Boston  Theatre  (PI.  27),  on  Washington  St.,  near  We.st,  is 
the  largest  in  New  England.  The  princii)al  tragedians  of  (or  visiting)  America 
have  jtlaycd  here,  ind  the  liuilding  is  often  engaged  for  Italian  and  Gennan 
Operas.  'J'lie  elegant  Globe  Theatre,  "  the  Parlor  cf  Comedy,"  was  destroyed  in  the 
greivt  Aloi'KM'i.d  l);iy  lire  (May  30,  1873),  Imt  it  is  to  be  rebuilt  iiii mediately.  Tl)e 
Mvscum  Tlierifre  (I'l.  1;'>),  on  Tremont,  near  School  St.,  is  conducted  by  a  stock 
company,  and  is  (•ailed  the  "  Urtliodox  "  or  "  Ministers'  Theatre,"  since  no  si)ec- 
tacular  or  questionable  plays  are  allowed  there  William  Warren,  the  gieat 
comedian,  i.s  a  member  of  the  Museum  comi»any,  with  which  he  has  played  for  26 
years,  winning  a  wide  and  cnvi.ihle  reputation.  On  Howard  St.,  near  Court,  is 
the  Howard  Athenaium  (PI.  li;,  devoted  to  varieties,  and  eutertainments  by  negro 
minstrels. 

Classic  music  in  Music  Hall  by  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  the  Tnomas 
Orchestra,  an'^  the  Apollo  Club.     Also  semi-weekly  organ  concerts. 

Coligulai«)t).  —  Austrian,  80  State  St.  ;  Belgian,  0  Central  Whf.  ;  BrlHsh,  127 
State  St.  ;  French,  Italian,  17  Broad  ;  German,  80  State  ;  Russian,  49  India  Whf.  ; 
Swedish,  6  Central  Wht. 

Horse-cars  traverse  the  city  in  all  dire  tions.  Tremont  St.,  between  Temple 
Place,  and  the  Treuiont  House,  i  owdoin  Sq.,  and  Scollay  Sq.  (corner  Court 
and  Tremont  Sts.),  are  the  jtrincipjil  centres  of  hor^e-car  traffic.  Cars  leave  the 
Tremont  House  every  few  minutes  for  the  Northern  Depots,  Chelsea  Ferry,  Mt. 
Pleasant  (in  Dorchester),  Warren  St.  (Roxbury),  Grovy  Hall,  Dorchester,  Norfolk 
jJouse  (Roxbury),  Egieston  Square,  Forest  Hills,  Lenox  St.,  Jamaica  Plain.  Brook- 
line,  Beacon  St.,  and  E.  Boston.  Also  from  Temple  Place  to  Dudley  St.  (Rox- 
bury), and  Grove  Hall,  via  Shawmut  Ave.  From  Scollay  Hq.  cars  run  to  So. 
Boston,  City  Point,  Bay  View,  Charlesi  wn  Neck,  Bunker  Hill,  Maiden,  Winter 
Hill,  Medford,  ^Tuion  Square  (Somerville),  Chelsea,  Revere  Beacii  {in  siimmer), 
Lynn,  Swanipscott.  Prom  foot  of  Summer  St.,  cars  to  Dorchester  and  Milton. 
From  Bowdoin  Sq.,  cars  on  20  routes  to  the  western  suburbs,  Cambridgeport, 
I'iverside  Press,  Brighton,  Newton  Comer,  Harvard  Sq.  (University),  Mount 
Auburn,  Watertown,  Arlington,  Somerville  (via  Craigie's  Bridge). 

CmnibuKSS*  —  From  Salem  St.,  Charlestov^^l,  via  Warren  Bridge  and  Wash- 
i?'gton  St. ,  to  Concord  St. 

Carriages.  —  50  cts. 
from  south  of  Dover  St. 
each  carriage. 

Steamers  leave  Boston  as  follows  (in  tlie  season  of  navigation) :  —  For 
Augustii  and  Bath,  Me.,  semi-weekly,  from  Union  Whf.  ;  for  Baltimore,  from 
India  Whf.  ;  for  Bangor,  semi-weekly,  from  Foster's  Whf.  ;  for  Calais,  Me.,  Sat- 
urdays, from  Commercial  Whf.  ;  for  Djver,  from  Battery  Whf.  ;  for  Eastpor^. 
and  St.  John,  N.  B.,  tri-wcekly,  from  Commercial  Whf.  ;  for  Gloucester,  daily, 
from  234  Broad  St.  ;  for  Halifax,  N.  S.,  Pictou,  and  Prince  Edward's  Island, 
every  Saturday,  from  T  Whf.  ;  for  Hull,  Hingham,  and  Nantasket,  semi-daily  in 
summer,  froni  Livcrjtool  Whf.  and  234  Pioad  St.  ;  for  Long  Island,  Quincy 
Point,  and  North  Weymouth,  daily  in  summer,  from  Rov.^e's  Whf.  ;  for  Nahant, 
daily  in  sunnner,  from  India  Whf.  ;  for  Pliiladeli)hia,  semi-weekly,  from  Long 
Whf.  ;  for  Portland,  daily,  froui  India  Whf.  ;  for  Provincetown,  from  Central 
Whf.  ;  for  Savannah,  every  ten  days,  from  T  Whf.  ;  for  Liverpool  (Cunard 
Line),  every  Tuesday,  from  Cunard  Whf.,  East  Boston  (cabin,  8  80  and  ^100  in 
gold  ;  Btoeiage,  )$  30  in  currency).  Sailing  packet-lines  connect  Boston  with 
nearly  every  port  of  New  England,  » 

Churches.  —  There  are  in  the  city  18  Baptist  churches,  22  Congregationalist, 
27  Unitarian,  1.0  Episcopal,  22  MchodLst,  7  Presbyterian,  17  Roman  Catholic,  6 
Uuiver-  list,  and  14  other  religious  societies.  There  is  a  German  Lutheran  church, 
comer  oi  Shawmut  Ave.  and  Waltham  St. ;  a  Gennan  Reformed  church,  8  Shaw- 


each  passenger  for  a  course  within  the  city  proper  ; 
to  the  North  End,  SI.    A  tarilf  of  fares  is  hung  in 


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mut  St.  ;  a  Gpnnan   Methodist  olinrch,  511  Shnwmtit  Ave.,  and  a  Sjniagogiie 
of  Cicnnin  Jens,  on  Pleasant  St. 

Newspapers.  -  8  daily  i)ai»erH  are  published  in  the  city  ;  also  3  semi-week- 
lip.i  ;  72  weeklies  ;  8  bi-naonthlies  ;  70  nionthliea  (mostly  magazines)  ;  and  14 
(|unrteilie.s. 

lioHton  (Bhawmnt,  or  "  Sircct  Waters  "),  the  Purltiin  City,  was  first  settled 
by  a  recluae  Angliran  clergj'man,  Wiliani  Hlackstnne,  about  the  year  1G2;5.  The 
adventurous  coloni.sts  who  landciPat  .Salem,  in  IG;U),  soon  moved  a  large  party  to 
Cliaiiestown  ;  but,  linding  no  ".vater  tliere,  they  evosscd  to  the  peninsula  of  yhawmut, 
imdrr  the  leadershii*  of  Isaae  Johusdu,  laudirg  on  the  pre.sent  site  of  Boston, 
SeptemVier  7(0.  S.),  1G.'J0.  The  name  Hostou  was  given  to  the  plaee  by  <n-der  of 
the  Court,  in  lionor  of  that  English  city  from  which  came  Johnson  and  John 
Cotton,  two  of  the  early  church  fatliers  of  the  new  settlement.* 

In  10:U  Blaekstone,  declaring  "  I  came  I'rom  Engltind  because  I  did  not  like 
the  lord  bishops,  but  I  can't  .join  with  you,  because  I  wouhl  not  be  under  tha 
lords  brethren,"  sold  tlio  peninsula  to  the  colonists  for  i^'M),  and  went  into  the 
wihlerness.  CJovernor  Winthrop  had  jireviously  constituted  Boston  the  capital 
of  the  colony,  and  a  strong  title  of  immigration  set  in.  In  1031  the  banpie 
"  Blessing  of  the  iJay"  was  launched  ;  in  1032  the  first  church  was  built  ;  and  ia 
l()l{6-38  Harvard  College  was  f(mnded.  In  1(><>3  Josselyn  writes  :  "  The  buildings 
ar^  handfjome,  joining  one  to  the  other  as  in  London,  with  mai.y  large  streets, 
most  of  them  i)avcil  with  pebble-stones.  In  the  high  street  towanls  the  Com- 
mon there  are  fairc  houses,  souk;  of  stone,"  &c.,  —  a  great  change  since  1630,  when 
one  declared  it  to  be  "  a  hideous  wilderness,  possessed  by  barbarous  Indians, 
very  coM,  sicklv,  rocky,  barren,  unlit  for  culture,  and  like  to  keep  the  i)eopIe 
miserable."  In  the  Peciuot  War  of  1G37,  and  King  Ph-'lip's  War  (1675  - 70),  Boston 
bore  u  large  share,  and  Imndreds  of  jirisoners  were  guarded  therj.  "  Philadelphia 
was  a  forest,  and  New  York  was  an  insigniticant  village,  long  after  its  rival  (Bos- 
ton) liad  become  a  great  commercial  town." 

The  town  gave  men  and  money  freely  in  defence  of  the  frontiers  against  the 
Franco-Indian  attacks,  and  fleet  after  fleet  left  its  harbor  to  do  battle  on  the 
eastern  coasts.  In  1704  the  firstT American  newspaper  (the  "  Boston  News-Let- 
ter ")  appeared  here  ;  in  1710  a  massive  wall  of  brick  and  stone  foundation,  with 
cannon  on  its  parapets,  and  «vith  two  strong  gates,  was  built  across  the  isthmus, 
or  neck,  on  the  south,  near  the  present  ijover  St.  This,  with  the  wa'is  on 
on  the  water-front,  2,200  feet  long,  15  feet  high,  and  20  feet  thick,  and  the  f.)rt3  on 
Castle  Island  and  Fort  Hill,  etfectually  guarded  against  attacks  by  the  Dutch  or 
French.  In  1711,  5,000  of  Marlborough's  veterans,  and  a  large  Provincial  force, 
encamped  at  East  Boston,  and  thence  sailed  on  Admiral  Walker's  disastrous  ex- 
pedition against  Quebec.  In  1739  sailed  the  fteet  destine<l  to  attack  Cuba,  and 
of  500  men  sent  from  the  Massachusetts  colony  but  50  ever  returned.  Meantime 
JFrance  had  erected  a  powerful  fortress  at  Louisbourg,  far  in  the  north,  and  4,100 

Udiers,  in  13  vessels,  mounting  204  guns,  sailed  from  Boston  in  1745.     They 

*ere  joined  at  Canseau  by  10  royal  frigates  ;  the  "  Ma.s3achusetts,"  24,  'japtureil 
tJie  French  frigate  "  Vigilant,"  64  ;  and  alter  firing  9,600  cannon-shoi  into  Loui.s- 
.»ourg  it  surrendered,  with  2,000  men  and  76  heavy  guns.  Restored  to  France  by 
London  treaty-makers,  the  work  had  to  be  done  over  again,  and  in  1758  Andierst 
and  Boscawen  gathered  a  royal  and  provnicial  army  and  fleet  at  Boston,  attacked 
Louisbourg  with  7,000  men  and  57  sail,  lost  400  men,  and  took  the  fortress,  with 
5,600  soldiers,  39  heavy  guns,  G  line-of-battle  ships,  and  several  frigates.  In 
1745  the  Duke  d'Anville,  with  16  shii)s  of  the  line,  95  frigates,  and  a  large  army, 
was  sent  to  retake  Louisbourg  and  demolisli  Boston.  A  frightful  storm  shattered 
this  armada,  but  he  laud  "d  a  strong  force  at  Halifax,  which  annihilated  a  Massachu- 
setts army  in  a  battle  at  Grand  Pre,  and  filled  Boston  with  mourners.  The  feel- 
ing of  discontent  which  had  been  growing  since  the  f<irfeiture  of  the  colonial 
charters  in  1G38,  and  which  had  been  increased  by  arbitrary  acts  of  royal  gov- 
ernors and  of  the  London  cabinet,  arose  rai)idly  in  1762-65,  on  the  passage 
of  the  "Writs  of  Assistance"  and  the  Stamp  Act.     In   17G8  two  royal  regi- 

•  Bo8ton,.in  Lincolnshire,  Eni?.,  wns  founded  in  G.50  by  St.  Botolph  (boot-help),  a  pioug 
Saxon  and  the  patron-saint  of  Lnglish  sailors.  It  is  on  the  WItham  River,  20  miles  south- 
east of  Lincoln,  and  has  l."),0()0  inhabitants.  The  Church  of  St.  Botolph  is  its  pride.  It  was 
founded  in  l.'V)7,  is  245  by  IW  feet,  and  can  accommodr.te  5,000  people.  It  has  noble  stained 
windows,  and  a  famous  tower  2>IU  feet  high  (modelled  after  one  at  Antwerp),  which  is  visible 
for  leagues  at  sea. 


8 


Iloutc  1. 


BOSTON. 


TTjeiits  from  Halifax  moved  into  the  town,  and  riots  and  outrages  began  to  be 
fiffjucnt.  Reinforcements  were  sent  again  and  again  to  the  garrison,  and  Lieu- 
t«Mmnt-Gener:il  Gage,  the  commander  of  the  British  forces,  was  appointed  (1774) 
(Jovenior  of  Massacluisetts.  Then  ensued  the  gathering  of  the  i)atriot  annies  at 
Cambridge,  the  blockade  of  the  city,  and  conseinient  distress  among  its  people, 
and  the  bombardments  from  the  American  lines.  When  Lord  Howe  was  forced 
to  evacuate  the  city,  March  17,  1770,  15,000  loyalists  chose  to  go  with  him,  and  on 
tlic  same  day  the  Americans  took  possession  of  battered  and  hungry  and  depopu- 
lated Boston. 

Wince  the  close  of  the  Revolution  the  city  has  been  engaged  in  great  internal 
improvements,  the  construction  of  a  network  of  railroads  to  all  parts  of  New 
F.ngland,  and  the  i)reservation  and  cxtensi<  »  of  its  commerce.  Great  manufac- 
turing interests  centred  here,  and  the  city  boundaries  were  again  and  again  en- 
larged. In  June,  1S72,  the  Universal  Teace  Jubilee  was  held  here  (as  projected 
ancl  managed  by  P.  S.  Gilmore)  \\\  an  immense  wooden  building  on  the  Back  Bay. 
This  editi(!e  (called  the  Coliseum)  w;ts  550  feet  long,  H.'jO  feet  wide,  and  115  feet 
high,  thus  having  an  area  greater  than  that  of  the  Milan  and  Cologi.c  Catlie- 
drals  united,  or  of  St.  Paul's  (London)  and  St.  Sophia  (Constantinoi>le)  united. 
The  Roman  Coliseum  held  87,000  spectators,  but  tlie  Boston  Coliseum  could 
accommodate  only  40,000  to 50,000.  Great  galleries  ran  around  the  hall,  i)arlors,&c., 
were  plentiflil,  and  a  forest  of  flags  and  national  symbols  was  draped  within  and 
floated  outside.  Strong  forces  of  ])olice,  firemen,  and  artillerists  were  (constantly 
on  duty  at  the  Coliseum.  Some  of  the  music  was  em])hasized  by  the  booming  of 
cannon  near  the  building  and  the  ringing  of  the  city  bells,  while  a  large  compjiny 
of  uniformed  firemen  accompanied  the  oft-repeated  Anvil  Chorus  with  ringing 
blows  on  anvils.  Strauss,  the  Austrian  composer  of  waltzes,  and  violinist,  Mes- 
damcs  Peschka-Leutner,  Rudersdorft",  and  Goddard  were  there  ;  also  the  bands  of 
the  English  Grenadier  Guards,  tDC  French  Garde  R^publicaine,  and  the  Pnissiau 
Kaiser  Franz  Grenadier  Regiment.  These  were  aided  by  a  grand  orchestra  of  2,000 
musicians,  and  a  chorus  of  105  well-drilled  societies,  comprising  20,000  voices. 
The  Jubilee  lasted  for  .3  weeks  (without  accident  or  mischance),  and  was  varied 
by  a  great  Presidential  Ball.  Early  in  the  next  year  the  Coliseum  was  taken 
down. 

The  rapid  extension  of  commerce,  and  the  concentration  of  great  manufacturing 
agencies  in  the  city,  jiroduced  a  corn^spoiKling  flow  of  wealth  and  growth  of 
stately  architecture.  The  streets  between  the  Common  and  the  Harbor,  between 
Summer  and  State  Sts.,  were  lined  with  lofty  and  ornate  conunercial  houses, 
unsuri>assed  eLsewhere  in  the  world,  and  crowded  with  valuable  goods.  There 
were  tiers  of  streets  lined  with  massive  grjinite  stnictures,  which  seemed  as  un- 
inflammable as  ravines  in  the  solid  rock.  About  7  o'clock  on  the  warm,  moonlit 
evening  of  November  9,  1872,  a  lire  broke  out  in  a  building  on  the  comer  of  Kings- 
ton and  Summer  Sts.  It  speedily  crept  up  from  the  lower  story  and  turned 
the  Mansard  roof  into  a  sea  of  flame.  The  fire  started  thence  in  three  direc- 
tions, and,  fanned  by  the  gale  which  it  had  formed,  it  swept  up  and  down 
Summer  St.,  and  through  the  lateral  avenues  into  Franklin  St.  and  Winthrop 
Sq.  The  flremen,  although  heroically  active,  were  driven  before  it,  until  early 
Sunday  morning,  when  several  buildings  were  blown  up.  About  this  time 
the  Are  was  checked  in  its  southward  progi-ess,  and  the  whol-?  Fire  Depart- 
ment (reinforced  from  many  towns  within  100  miles)  faced  the  destroyer  on 
the  north.  From  2  to  3  o'clock  Sunday  moniing  the  flremen  fought  the  flames  on 
Washington  St.,  and  after  incredible  efforts  kept  it  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
street,  and  saved  the  Old  South  Church,  which  was  scorched  and  strewn  with 
sparks.  During  the  day  the  force  at  hand  was  directed  on  two  points,  the  new 
U.  S.  Post  Office  on  Devonshire  Street,  and  the  Merchant's  Exchange,  and  in 
the  narrow  streets  betweer.  Broad  and  Kilby  Sts.  Repulsed  from  the  first  two 
points,  and  after  a  time  checked  in  its  advance  toward  Kilby  St.,  the  fire  sank 
rapidly  imder  the  cataracts  of  water  which  were  being  poured  upon  it  from  the 
steam-engines  massed  along  State  St.  By  mid-afternoon  the  danger  was  over, 
and  many  of  the  out-of-town  engines  were  sent  home.  In  less  than  24  hours  the 
richest  quarter  of  Boston,  covering  about  50  acres,  had  been  swept  away,  and 
nothing  remained  of  those  massive  piles  of  granite  and  brick  save  a  few  ragged 
and  tottering  fragments  of  wall.  The  loss  was  not  far  from  §70,000,000.  To 
keep  out  the  swarms  of  thieves,  and  to  prevent  the  citizens  and  the  scores  of 
thousands  of  visitors  from  imperilling  themselves,  three  regiments  of  State  trooiis 


I 


# 


I 


H- 


I 


BOSTON. 


Route  1. 


% 
I 

■ 

i 


were  called  out,  who  formed  a  line  of  guards  around  the  bunit  district,  which  was 
thus  picketed  and  held  under  martial  law  for  many  days.  Less  tlian  thirty  lives 
were  lost  during  the  tire.  The  rapid  and  resistless  sjiread  of  the  conflagration 
(which  would  have  l)een  impossihle  in  a  European  city)  has  been  attrihuteil  to 
tht  narrow  streets,  the  thin  jtartition  walls,  and  the  universal  use  of  lofty  Man- 
sard roofs  built  of  light  timlwr  and  jjlanking,  and  too  higli  from  the  street  to  bo 
reached  by  the  water  from  the  engines.  "  Tlie  best  treasure  of  Boston  cannot  l)e 
burnt  up.  Her  grand  capital  of  culture  and  character,  scieiu-e  and  skill,  humanity 
and  ndigion,  is  beyond  tlie  reach  of  flanu;.  Sweej)  away  every  store  and  house, 
every  school  and  church,  and  let  the  ])eoplc,  with  their  history  and  habits,  re- 
main, anil  they  still  have  one  of  the  richest  and  strongest  cities  on  earth." 

Boston,  tlie  capital  of  the  State  of  Massachusett.s,  and  the  metropolis 
of  New  England,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  famous  of  the  Aniericjin 
cities.  Its  colonial  and  Revolutionary  epochs  were  filled  with  incidents 
of  rare  heroi-sm  and  surpassing  interest,  while  the  later  and  more  peace- 
ful years  have  been  rich  in  the  triumphs  of  commerce  and  industry.  Al- 
though it  has  lost  its  former  commercial  supremacy,  it  still  ranks  as  tlie 
second  American  city  in  this  reganl,  and  is  carrying  tlirough  vast  railroad 
projects  in  order  to  keep  its  position.  It  is  built  on  a  dee?>  iulet  at  the 
head  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  and  favorably  situated  either  for  foreign  traf- 
fic or  for  its  vast  trade  with  the  manufacturing  towns  of  New  England. 
So  the  city  has  grown  rapidly,  its  population  of  30,049  in  the  year  1800, 
and  70,713  in  1830,  having  increased  by  1870  to  250,526,  with  a  valuation 
of  ?  584,000,000.  The  cramped  limits  of  the  peninsula  being  too  narrow, 
laifej  tracts  of  land  have  been  added  by  filling  up  the  tide-water  flats  and 
coves,  and  by  the  annexation  and  settlement  of  neighboring  towns.  In 
spite  of  its  frequent  fires  and  rapid  changes,  Boston  has  more  of  a  Euro- 
pean appearance  than  any  other  American  city,  and  it  has  also  a  calm, 
cold,  and  reserved  aristocracy  of  old  families.  The  intellectual  and  musi- 
cal culture  of  its  citizens  is  renowned,  and  the  most  radical  and  advanced 
schools  of  politics,  philosophy,  and  religion  find  their  home  here.  As  for 
the  numerous  charitable  houses  of  the  city,  they  have  generally  won  the 
highest  praise,  even  the  censoriotis  Dickens  saying  :  "  I  sincerely  believe 
that  the  public  institvtions  and  charities  of  this  capital  of  Massachusetts 
are  as  nearly  perfect  as  the  most  considerate  wisdom,  humanity,  and 
benevolence  can  make  them."  The  district  lying  between  State,  Court, 
and  Cambridge  Sts.,  and  the  waters  of  Charles  River  and  tlie  Harbor, 
was,  in  the  olden  time,  the  most  important  part  of  the  city,  although  it  is 
now  given  to  the  purposes  of  trade  and  the  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes. 
Commercial  St. ,  forming  3  sides  of  a  square,  bounds  a  great  part  of  it, 
and  opens  on  a  continuous  line  of  Avharves.  The  great  Northern  depots 
of  the  Lowell  Railroad  (for  Vermont  and  Montreal),  the  Eastern  Rail- 
road, the  Fitchburg,  and  the  Boston  aiul  Maine  Railroad,  are  situated  near 
each  other,  on  and  near  Causeway  St.  ; 

Copp*S  Hill,  in  the  northeast  part,  was  the  site  of  a  Briti.sh  fort,  which 
took  an  active  part  in  the  Bunker  Hill  battle,  in  1775,  and  burned 


10        linidc  J. 


BOSTON. 


n 


C'liarlestowii  with  a  sliowcr  of  hot  sliot.  Tlio  ancient  burying-ground 
first  xised  iu  ICtJO  occujties  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  has  been  sacredly 
preserved.  Hero  are  l)nricd  three  fathers  of  tlie  Puritan  Churcli,  Drs. 
Increa.ie,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather.  The  cemetery  is  open  to  the 
jiublic. 

Near  Copp's  Hill,  on  Salem  St.,  is  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  the 
oldest  church  ediiice  in  the-  city  (consecrated  in  1723).  Aline  chime  of 
bells  is  iu  the  tower,  and  its  music  is  almost  coeval  with  the  church. 
Near  the  West  Boston  Bridge  is  the  largo  granite  building  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts General  Hospital  (PI.  4),  a  noble  charitable  institution  with 
rich  endowments.  Near  it  is  the  Medical  College  of  Harvard  University. 
*Faneuil  Hall  (PI.  1(5),  "The  Cradle  of  American  Liberty,"  was  built 
and  given  to  the  city  in  1742,  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  I/uf/uenot  merchant. 
It  was  burnt  in  1701,  and  rebuilt  iu  time  to  serve  the  British  14th 
Regiment  for  barracks  (1768).  During  the  later  popular  excitements 
nuvny  stirring  orations  were  made  here,  until,  during  the  siege  of  1775  -  70, 
the  royal  ollicers  turned  it  into  a  theatre.  The  Hall,  76  feet  square 
and  28  feet  high,  has  no  seats,  and  will  accommodate  a  great  audience. 
In  lime  of  great  military  or  political  emergencies, 'the  men  of  Boston 
flock  to  Faneuil  Hall  by  thousands.  On  the  walls  arc  some  good  por- 
traits :  Peter  Faneuil,  Sargent;  George  Washington,  *S^«ar<;  Commo- 
dore Preble,  General  Warren,  John  Q.  Adams,  *  Webster  replying  to 
Hayne,  Ilealy ;  Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  John  A.  Andrew, 
*  Samuel  Adams,  Coplr.y  (Ids  nuisterpiece)  ;  and  others.  Fronting  Fan- 
euil Hall  is  the  (580  ft.)  long  granite  building  of  the  Quincy  Market, 
where  all  kinds  of  meat,  fish,  fruit,  and  vegetables  are  exposed  in 
tempting  profusion.  Not  far  from  the  Market  is  the  *U.  S.  Custom 
House  (PI.  24),  perhaps  the  most  massive  and  imposing  building  in  Bos- 
ton. It  was  built.  1837  -  49,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $  1,100,000,  and  its  walls, 
roof,  and  dome"  are  of  granite.  The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  and  is  surrounded  by  32  immense  columns,  5  ft.  thick  and  32 
ft.  high.  The  great  granite  warehouses  (Eta*"^  St.  Block,  &c.)  in  tlie 
vicinity  are  wortliy  of  attention  ;  also  the  ever-busy  wharves  near  State 
St.  The  old  Post  Office  (PI.  21),  or  Merchants'  Exchange,  with  6  long 
gi-anite  colunnis  in  front,  is  famous  as  the  point  where  the  flames  advancing 
on  State  Street  were  checked,  in  the  Great  Fire  of  1872,  by  a  platoon  of 
husky,  dingy,  and  quivering  steam  fire-enghies  drawn  up  before  it.  The 
Wall  Street  of  Boston,  the  haunt  of  its  bankers  and  brokers,  is  the  part 
of  State  St.  between  the  old  Post  Office  and  the  Old  State  House. 
This  ancient  edifice  was  built  in  1748,  and  long  used  by  the  legislature  of 
the  colony.  On  March  5, 1770,  a  collision  occurred  between  the  towns- 
people and  the  British  main-guard  stationed  here,  and  a  volley  was  fired, 
killing  four  and  wounding  many  of  the  crowd.    This  affair  was  called  the 


\^ 


rl 
ii 
11 


BOSTON. 


IloiUe  1.        1 1 


treek 

I  32 

tiic 

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long 


] 


1 


**  Boston  Massacre,"  and  tlie  soldiers  were  tried  before  tlie  Colonial  Court 
on  the  charge  of  murder,  an<l  exonerated.  Opj^osite  the  Old  State  House 
is  a  nia.^nilicent  marble  buildiii}^  in  Venetian  Gothic  architecture,  with  a 
149  ft.  front  on  Court  St.  and  55  ft.  on  Washington  St.,  which  cost  about 

$750,000,  and  is  used  for  bank,  railroa<l,  and  insurance  offices.  Just 
above,  on  Court  Scj.,  is  the  heavy  front  of  the  Suffolk  County  Court 
House,  back  of  whieli,  and  fronting  on  School  St.,  is  the  *  City  Hall,  built 
in  18G2-()5.  $1«)0,000  were  approi)riated  to  build  it,  and  it  cost  really 
more  than  §500,000.  It  is  of  white  Concord  granite,  in  the  Italian 
Renaissance  architecture,  with  138  ft.  front  and  95  ft.  height,  the  Louvre 
dome  which  is  the  headquarters  of  the  fire-alarm  being  109  ft.  high.  The 
Council  Cliarnbers  are  very  fine,  as  is  the  whole  interior  arrangement. 
In  front  of  the  City  Hall  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Dcnjiumn  Franklin,  8 
ft.  high,  on  a  base  of  verde  antique  and  granite,  with  historic  bronze  me- 
dallions on  the  sides.  The  artist  was  11.  S.  Greenough,  and  the  means 
of  its  erection  ($20,000)  were  raised  by  the  peo2»le. 

Cciijaniin  Pranklin  was  born  in  Boston  in  1708.  Ho  was  ai)i)rentice(l  to  his 
brotlior,  a  itrinter,  but  ran  away  to  I'hiladelpliia  in  172;{.  Tliore  he  rose  steadily 
until  in  17(34  he  was  sent  to  Englaml  as  colonial  agent,  when,  in  17(50,  he  si)uke 
before  the  House  of  Commons,  and  tho  Htamp  A(;t  was  repealed.  Elected  to 
Congress,  he  was  on  tlie  eonimittco  on  the  Declaration  of  Intlependenee,  and 
signed  that  document.  From  177Gto  1785  he  was  Minister  to  France,  with  wliieh 
he  procured  the  treaty  of  alliance  of  1773  which  saved  the  Republic.  His  later 
works  were  of  diplomacy  and  philanthropy,  and  he  founded  the  Abolition  So- 
ciety. He  invented  the  harmonica,  and  the  Franklin  stove  ;  and  in  17r>2  found 
the  identity  of  lightning  and  the  electric  fluid  by  means  of  a  kite.  His  scientillc 
]  ibors  won  him  high  honor  in  Europe. 

Opposite  the  City  Hall  is  the  Parker  House  (PI.  19),  and  to  the  right  is 
King's  Chapel. 

On  Washington  St.,  near  the  foot  of  School  St.,  is  the  Old  South 
Churoh,  the  shrine  of  Boston.  It  was  built  in  1729,  on  the  site  of  a 
cedar-wood  church  which  had  been  built  in  1669.  The  exciting  meetings 
of  the  people  in  the  late  colonial  days  were  held  here,  and  thence  marched 
the  disguised  men  to  the  attack  on  the  tea  ships  (Dec.  13th,  1773.)  In 
1775  the  pews  were  removed,  and  a  riding-school  for  the  British  cavalry 
was  here  formed,  the  interior  being  well  packed  with  gravel,  and  a  liciuor 
saloon  being  placed  in  one  of  the  galleries.  The  diurch  was  restored  in 
1782,  and  contained  (imtil  1873)  two  galleries,  many  scjuare  "pues  on  ye 
lower  flore,"  and  a  pulpit  overarched  by  a  sounding-board.  Externally  it 
is  plain,  with  a  high  spire,  and  a  clock.  "  More  eyes  are  upturned  to 
its  clock  daily  than  to  any  other  timekeeper  in  New  England. "  Franklin 
was  baptized  here  (in  the  older  church) ;  Whitefield  has  preached  here  ; 
for  one  hundred  and  sixty  years  the  election  sermons  (before  the  legisla- 
ture, council,  and  governor)  have  been  delivered  here  ;  it  was  saved,  by 
deathless  heroism,  from  the  Great  Fire  ;  and  yet  before  1875  this  ancient 
shrine  will  probably  be  torn  down  and  replaced  by  a  line  of  shops  with 


12       llmtc  1. 


BOSTON. 


a  Maiisanl  roof.     It  was  leased  to  tlie  Government  for  a  Post  Office  in 
December,  1872. 

Near  the  Old  South,  on  Milk  and  Dovonsliire  Sts.,  is  the  Ktructuro 
to  be  occupied  by  the  TJ.  8.  Post  Office  and  Suli-Troasury  ^Pl.  44).  It  is 
l)iiilt  of  granite,  in  the  prevalent  FnMich  style  of  architecture,  with  an 
immense  roof,  and  groups  of  statuary  on  the  front.  Its  ^'reat  size,  and 
the  fineness  of  Us  materials,  render  it  an  inijxjsing  building.  The  mas- 
sive granite  front  on  Milk  St.  was  so  much  cracked  and  injured  in 
the  Great  Fire  (by  intense  heat  from  across  the  street)  that  much  of  it 
had  to  be  rebuilt.  The  build ini,'  fronts  "200  ft.  on  Devonshire  St.,  and 
will  cost  from  !?,  2,000,000  to  -S  ;{,()00,()00.  From  this  building  (which  was 
hcM  desperately  ami  successfully  against  the  fire)  the  burnt  district  lies 
on  the  south,  east,  and  west.  From  the  Old  South  Church,  Washington 
St.,  the  main  retail  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  nms  southwest,  and  is 
always  filled  with  a  busy  throng.  On  the  corner  of  School  St.  is  the 
Old  Corner  Bookstore,  in  a  building  dating  from  1712.  Farther  along 
are  the  two  principal  theatres,  and  soma  ^-irge  bookstores.  The  comer 
of  Washington  and  Winter  Sts.  is  the  liveliest  pohit  in  the  city,  and 
Winter  St.  is  full  of  ladies'  shops. 

From  Boylston  Market  Boylston  St.  runs  out  past  the  Common. 
At  the  corner  of  Tremont  St.,  and  facing  the  Common,  is  the  Masonic 
Temple  (PI.  45),  built  1864 -G7.  The  first  Masonic  Lodge  in  America  met 
in  Boston  in  1733,  since  when  the  order  has  steadily  grown,  save  during 
the  days  of  the  Anti-Masonic  party.  The  Temple  is  a  lofty  edifice  of 
granite,  built  in  such  fonns  of  medieval  architecture  as  "  to  suggest  the 
most  eflfective  poetical  and  historical  associations  connected  with  the  Ma- 
.sonic  institution."  The  interior  contains  Corinthian,  Egyptian,  and  Gothic 
Halls,  besides  banqueting-rooms,  &c.  Opposite  the  Temple  is  the  large 
and  elegant  Hotel  Boylston  (suites  of  rooms  for  permanent  dwellers),  in 
the  Italian-Gothic  style.  The  lofty  brownstone  building  of  the  Hotel 
Pelham  is  on  the  opposite  comer,  next  door  to  which  is  the  *  Boston  Pub- 
lic Library,  in  a  so-called  fire-proof  building  of  brick  and  sandstone. 
This  Library  contains  193,000  volumes,  and  100,000  pamphlets,  and  is  the 
largest  in  America,  except  the  Library  of  Congress.  The  Lower  Hall  is 
devoted  to  popular  books  and  a  reading-room,  while  the  noble  Bates  Hall, 
above,  is  reserved  for  more  substantial  works.  All  these  rooms  are  open 
to  the  public,  and  any  one  can  take  books  and  read  there,  though  only  resi- 
dents of  the  city  can  take  books  from  the  building.  The  walls  of  the  rooms 
are  covered  with  pictures,  which  form  part  of  the  collection  of  engravings 
formerly  owned  by  Cardinal  Tosti,  of  Rome.  This  collection,  embracing 
from  6,000  to  7,000  pictures  (many  being  fine  old  works  of  Marc  Antonio 
and  Albert  Diirer),  was  presented  to  the  Library  by  Mr.  T.  G.  Appleton, 
and  fills  many  volumes. 


k 


*i^ 


t> 


*h 


<i^ 


p> 


*> 


BOSTON. 


Ro\Uel.       13 


Tho  U.  S.  Court  House,  corner  Tremont  St.  and  Tenii»k'  IM.,  was 
built  and  long  u.st'd  as  a  Masonic  Teni])le.  It  has  a  churclily  look,  and 
the  main  walls  are  built  of  triangular  blocks  of  granite.  Next  to  the 
Court  House  is  St.  Paul's  Episcoital  Church,  of  gray  granite,  with  G 
columns  of  rotoinac  sandstone  upholding  a  classii;  lu'dinient.  Near  this, 
at  the  corner  of  I'ark  St.  (formerly  called  Brimstone  Corner),  is  Park 
Street  Church,  an  ohl  i'uritan  nieetingdiouse,  where  the  able  and  Ijril- 
liant  Murray  is  now  settled.  Adjoining  the  Church  is  the  Old  Gninnry 
Burying  O'roiind,  where  are  buried  Governor  Bellingham  (died  1672),  and 
8  other  colonial  and  state  governors,  2  signers  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  0  famous  divines,  Peter  Faneuil,  who  gave  the  Hall  to 
Boston,  Paul  llevere,  the  Revolutionary  hero,  Chief  Justice  Samuel  Sew- 
all,  John  Hancock  (see  Quincy),  and  Samuel  Adams. 

Samuel  Adams,  born  at  Boston  in  1722,  was  one  of  the  leade*^  of  the  people  in 
tilt!  at,'it,iitii)iis  of  n(H-7i>,  ami  was  prost  rilied  by  the  royal  KovtTiinieut.  In  17(W 
he  advocated  the  iii(l(']i('iidt'iic(!  of  America,  and  during'  tht^  Hcvolntion  directed 
tlie  measiue-t  of  Congress  in  the  Nortliern  war.  "  Thoiij^h  jioor,  >Samiu-l  Adams 
j)orisessi!dalnffyand  incorniiitilile  spirit,  was  piu-eiii  morals,  and  grave  and  austere 
m  manner,  though  warm  in  his  feelings.  As  a  sjieaker,  lu;  was  i»ure,  concise, 
logical,  and  impressive  ;  and  the  energy  of  his  diction  was  not  inferior  to  the 
.stnjngth  of  his  uiind."  The  Htate  is  to  ))laee  his  statue  in  the  Capitol  at  Wash- 
ington. A  granite  pyramid  is  over  the  remains  of  Franklin's  jiarents.  From 
the  sidewalk  before  the  cemetery  rises  a  row  of  tall  elms,  which  were  tmnsplanteU 
IVuia  England,  and  placed  here  in  17U2. 

Op])o.site  tlie  Cliurch  is  the  extensive  publi.shing  house  of  James  R.  Os- 
good k  Co.,  and  beyond  it,  down  Hamilton  PL,  is  seen  the  plain  wall 
of  Music  Hall  (PI.  25).  Entrance  from  Central  PL,  15  Winter  St.,  or 
at  IIG  Tremont  St.  This  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  well-arranged 
halls  in  America,  and  is  of  rare  acoustic  properties.  Witidn  this  hall 
is  the  largest  organ  in  the  New  World,  containing  5474  pipes,  and  84  com- 
plete registers,  and  encased  in  an  elegant  frame,  with  a  colossal  statue 
of  Beethoven  in  the  foreground.  The  organ  was  built  by  Herr  Walcker, 
of  Ludwigsburg,  1857  -  03,  at  a  cost  of  $  60,000  dollars,  and  is  often  played 
l)y  competent  professionals.  Farther  along  Tremont  St.,  on  the  right,  is 
the  elegant  white  granite  building  of  the  Horticultural  Hall,  with  a  many- 
columned  front,  —  Doric  in  the  first  story,  Ionic  in  the  second,  and  Corin- 
thian in  the  third.  The  rich  cornice  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  Ceres,  a 
copy  from  the  ancient  statue  in  the  Vatican ;  while  on  piers,  at  the  cor- 
ners of  the  second  story,  are  statues  of  Flora  and  Pomona.  Fairs,  floral 
sliows,  and  lectures  are  held  iu  the  spacious  halls  above.  Alongside  the 
Hall  is  the  Studio  Building,  the  home  of  many  local  artists. 

Tremont  Temple  comes  next,  with  a  plain  Palladiau  front,  and  a  great 
hall,  which  is  used  on  Sunday  by  a  Baptist  church,  and  during  the  week 
for  lectures,  readings,  etc.  On  the  same  side  of  the  street  is  King's 
Chapel,  built  in  1754,  by  the  Episcopalians,  on  the  site  of  the  lii-st  church 
of  that  sect  in  Boston  (built  1689).     King's  Chapel  was  deserted  by  its 


14       Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


people  wlu'ti  (}age  and  tlie  Loyalists  left  the  tov/n,  and  was  oocupietl  by 
the  Old  South  Society.  At  a  later  day,  iuHueiiced  l)y  their  rector,  Rev. 
Jumea  Freeman,  the  few  remaining  churchmen  revised  their  liturgy,  strik- 
ing out  nil  Triniturianism,  and  formed  themselves  into  the  first  Unitarian 
churi'li  in  Hoston.  Ni'xt  to  tliis  Church  is  tho  Imrying-ground  used  hy 
the  Puritans  from  1630  onward.  Isaac  Johnson,  "  The  Father  of  Bos- 
ton," was  buried  liere  ere  the  first  year  of  thu  settlement  was  ended. 
About  him  his  people  were  buried  for  many  years.  In  one  tomb  is  Gov- 
ernor John  Winthrop,  and  his  two  sons,  who  were  governors  of  Co)mecticut. 

John  Witithrnp,  a  jiious  lawyer  of  HudWlk,  1»'<I  a  colony  to  Halnm  In  1(530.  Tie 
moved  his  |i<'oplf  to  Mo.sloii  un<l  built  up  tiiat  i>l,i('(i,  where  he  rule<l  as  (Jovernor 
ol'  Massacliiisetts.  l(i;{t»-:{4,  1<1.{7-1(),  l(i4iI-44,  l()4(t-4!>.  He  was  an  ainiahh;  n«n- 
thMuan,  a  tlrin  ruler,  anil  a  believer  in  niiHi<>rat(f  aristocratic  principles,  sUiting  in 
liis  letter  to  the  people  of  (Jonneetieut,  that  "the  best  nurt  of  a  community  is 
always  the  least,  and  of  that  i»art  the  wiser  are  still  less.  ^ 

Other  noted  Puritans  are  buried  here,  and  in  the  church  are  monuments 
to  the  families  of  Apthorpe,  Shirley,  and  Vassall. 

Beyond  the  cemetery  is  a  granite  building,  partly  occupied  by  the 
Massachusetts  Historioal  Sooiety,  which  has  a  library  of  1(3,000  books, 
and  800  volumes  of  MSS.  Many  ancient  portraits  (Increase  Mather, 
Sebastian  Cabot,  &c.)  adorn  the  walls,  while  relics  of  Washington  and 
the  Puritan  governors,  and  of  King  Phili]>,  the  chair  of  Winslow,  the 
swords  of  Church  and  of  Governor  Carver,  are  carefully  preserved  here. 
The  New  England  Historic-Genealogical  Society  (18  Somerset  St.)  has  a 
fine  library,  and  a  small  collection  of  curiosities. 

At  40  Winter  St.  are  the  rooms  of  the  Anmrican  and  Foreign  Chris- 
tian Union,  the  Sunday  School  Union,  the  Peace  Society,  and  the  Congre- 
gational Association.  Churchmen  of  the  various  sects  will  find  their 
respeetive  headquarters  as  follows :  Baptist  Mission  Society,  12  Bedford 
St.  ;  Congregational  Club,  corner  Somerset  and  Beacon  Sts.  ;  Publishing 
Society,  13  Cornhill ;  Episcopal  Church  Association,  corner  West  and 
Tremont ;  Methodist  Educational  and  Historical  Societies,  38  Bromfield  ; 
New  Church  Union,  2  Hamilt-n  Place  (library  and  reading-room) ; 
Universalist  Publishing  House,  -l '  Cornhill ;  American  Unitarian  Asso- 
ciation, 42  Chauncy  St.  ;  Clui-'ian  Unity,  375  Harrison  Ave.  ;  Parker 
Fraternity,  554  Washington  St.  The  General  Theological  Library  (22 
West  St. )  and  the  Mercantile  Library  are  much  used,  and  the  reading- 
rooms  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  (corner  Tremont  and 
Eliot)  and  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Union  (300  Washington  St.) 
are  pleasant,  and  freely  open.  The  British,  Irish,  Scotch,  Germans,  and 
Italians  have  benevolent  societies.  In  Boston  there  are  27  lodges,  8 
chapters,  and  6  commanderies  of  Masons,  18  lodges  and  5  encampments 
of  Odd  Fellows,  22  divisions  of  Sons  of  Temperance,  13  Temples  of 
Honor,  7  lodges  of  Good  Templars,  9  posts  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the 


H^ 


DOSTON. 


Route  1.       15 


Chris- 
oiigre- 
their 
Iford 
isliing 
st  and 
field  ; 
'oom) ; 
Asso- 
arker 
ry  (22 
ading- 
it  and 
St.) 
and 
8 
ments 
es  of 
)f  the 


s 


ges. 


ir) 


Republic,  15  loilges  of  the  Knights  of  I'ythi  is,  and  4  lodges  of  the  Haru- 
gari  (Geniians). 

On  Treniont,  near  School  St.,  is  the  Boston  Museum  (entmnce  fee, 
30  eta.)  whiTo,  in  a  lofty  hall,  a  great  number  of  rare  tilings  are 
sh  ■  "n,  embracing  curiosities  from  all  parts  of  tlie  world,  cvsts,  wax-fig- 
ures, scores  of  portraits  of  eminent  Americans  (by  West,  Copley,  Stuart, 
etc.),  and  Sully's  great  picture  of  Washington  crossing  the  Delaware. 

DoHton  Common*  ^VIl•'^  tht>  ])oii insula  of  Hhuwiiuit  (now  no^ton)  wns 
boll  ;ht  troiii  llliu-kstoiii'  for  Eiit),  in  tlii'  year  WM,  this  tra<t  was  rcsurvinl  by  tlio 
coloni.sus  for  II  tniiniiijVK'roiiiMl  (piinKlc)  uinl  pasture.  Kvcry  attempt  hIuco  niiulo 
to  occMipy  portions  of  it  lias  Iktu  rfpulseil,  excojit  in  the  early  (lays,  wlion  tlio 
jjroiuiil  botwrun  I'ark,  Ufaion,  ami  'lii'moiit  Sts.  was  takt-ii.  hpt'cial  care  was 
tJikfii,  in  IS2:,,  wlu'ii  tlic  clLy  was  t'onm'd,  to  withhold  iVoiii  the  niunit'ipal  f,'i>v- 
ernmcnt  the  power  of  alicnatiiiK  any  |>art  of  tho  Common.  Ik'tweoii  KS.'id  ami 
ItXJi)  several  persons  were  execntetl  here  on  tlio  cliarKo  of  witc'.i.raft,  ami  for  ono 
liiuidred  and  lll'ty  years  after  executions  took  jilace  on  tiie  '  'onimoii.  DuriuK  tho 
Hunnner  of  l(i7(J  many  scores  of  Indians  ( ;iu.','lit  red-lnuided  weio  l>ut  to  death 
here,  union;,'  whom  was  the  insurgent  rliicf  Matoouus.  Tiiirty  were  exeiuited  in 
ono  il.iy,  and  their  heads  were  fastened  on  stakes  and  left  in  public  places.  About 
tills  time  (I07r))  the  travtdler  Josselyn  Hjieaks  of  it  as  "  a  small  bnt  jileasant  Coni- 
ninii,  wliere  tlie  Gall.ints,  u  little  before  sunset,  walk  with  their  Maniiiilet- 
Madams,  till  the  bell  at  It  o'chxdv  rin^s  them  home.  Iii  1728  oc(;nrred  a  fatal 
duel,  under  the  Old  FOIni,  whereiiitfiu  a  law  was  imssed,  that  ]iorHoiis  killed  in 
ilucls  should  lie  denied  Cliristian  burial,  and  shoidd  be  buried  translixed  with  a 
stake.  If  the  duel  was  not  fatal,  both  parties  should  stand  on  tlie  gallows  ono 
hour  with  a  rope  about  their  necks,  ami  t'-.en  be  inijirisoned  for  om;  year.  Ho  the 
80-called  coile  of  honor  passed  from  tho  social  system  »f  Massachusetts.  In  1740 
George  Whiteliehl  preached  to  20,000  persons  in  one  body  on  the  Common. 
Durin:,'  the  American  sie,\'o  of  Boston  a  British  fort  was  built  on  tlie  hilt  near 
the  Ehn  Tree,  which  drew  some  of  Washington'M  heavy  shot.  Ilaees,  parades, 
and  milit.iry  executions  were  meanwhile  held  here.  The  garrison  of  the  town  in 
1812  encainjied  here,  and  so  late  as  19,'M)  it  was  a  eow-])asture  enclosed  by  a  two- 
railud  fence.  In  1830  the  present  iron-fence  (IJt  M.  long)  was  built,  and  cattle 
were  excluded.  In  the  days  of  the  Rebellion  tho  assembling  troops  paraded  here, 
and  in  the  (Jreat  l'"iro  of  1872  vast  mounds  of  saved  goods  were  i»iled  along  tho 
malls  and  on  tae  luwns. 

l*oston  Common  contains  about  48  acres,  and  is  rich  in  la\vns  and 
noble  trees.  No  carriages  are  allowed  to  enter,  and  the  walks  are  filled 
with  people  on  pleasant  summer  evenings  and  Sundays,  Under  the 
stately  elms  of  the  Beacon  and  Trcmont  St.  Malls  are  favorite  prome- 
nades. Near  Park  St.  is  the  Brewer  fountain,  made  in  Paris,  and  em- 
Itellished  with  bronze  statues  of  Neptune  and  Amphitrite,  Acis  and  Gal- 
atea, Copies  of  this  fountain  have  been  made  for  the  cities  of  Lyon.s, 
Bordeaux,  and  Alexandria  (Egypt),  The  Frog  Pond  has  a  large  foun- 
tain, supplied  from  Cochituate  Lake,  and  near  it  is  the  Old  Elm,  — a  great 
and  ancient  tree  which  is  peculiarly  revered  by  the  Bostonians,  and  has 
been  bolted  and  bandaged  with  iron  and  canvas,  and  fenced  in,  and  so 
preserves  its  hale  and  verdant  strength.  On  Flagstaff  Hill,  near  the  Old 
Elm,  a  soldiers*  monument  is  to  be  built,  to  be  90  ft.  high,  with  historical 
reliefs,  &c. ;  at  the  four  corners  heroii;  statues  of  Peace,  History,  the  Army, 
and  the  Navy.  Above  will  be  allegoiical  figures,  —  the  North,  South,  East, 


(•« 


1' 


1 


1 G       Pcoule  1. 


BOSTON. 


♦  ■ 


» ' 


and  West,  —  and  above  all  a  colossal  America,  resting  on  a  hemisphere, 
guarded  by  four  eagles,  with  the  flag  in  her  left  hand,  and  wreaths  and  a 
sheathed  sword  in  her  right.  In  the  south  part,  near  the  old  cemetery, 
is  a  deer-park.  The  west  part  of  the  Common  is  smooth  and  bar<',  and  is 
reserved  for  a  parade-ground  and  a  ball-ground  for  the  boys. 

Tlie  Public  Gardens  lie  west  of  the  Common,  and  contain  22  acres. 
In  1794,  6  rojjewalks  were  built  here,  on  tide-water  flats,  and  most  of 
the  improvements  have  been  made  during  the  past  15  years.  In  its 
centre  is  a  beautiful  artificial  serpentine  pond  of  4  acres,  crossed  by  a  fine 
briJge.  Near  Beacon  St.  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Everett,  by  Story,  mod- 
elled in  Rome  and  cast  in  Munich.  The  monument  to  the  discovery  of 
anaesthetics  (1868)  's  a  rich  and  beautiful  composition.  *Veniis  rising 
fi'ovi  tJie  Sea  is  a  lovely  work,  from  above  which,  when  the  waters  play, 
a  fine  spray  falls  about  the  figure,  whicli  is  sometimes  called  "the  Maid 
of  the  Mist."  But  the  finest  work  of  the  kind  in  New  England  is  the 
colossal  equestrian  *  Statue  of  Washington,  by  Ball,  which  fronts  on 
Commonwealth  Ave.  The  statue  is  22  ft.  high,  ou  ;  pedestal  16  ft. 
high.     The  bronze  work  was  done  at  Chicopee,  in  this  State. 

Commonwealth  Ave.  —  which  is  to  be  1^  miles  long  and  is  240  ft. 
wide,  with  a  park  in  the  middle  —  runs  W.  from  the  Public  Gardens,  and 
is  lined  with  fine  mansions.  A  statue  of  Alexander  Hamilton  is  in  the 
park.  Nearly  all  the  land  north  of  Tremont  and  west  of  Arlington  St. 
has  been  reclaimed  from  the  water,  and  is  now  the  finest  part.  o(  the  city. 
The  new  streets  are  alphabetically  named,  yet  they  avoid  the  weak  sound 
of  the  upper  New  York  and  Washington  city  streets,  having  sonorous  old 
English  titles,  — Arlington,  Berkeley,  Clarendon,  Dartmouth,  Exeter,  Fair- 
field ,  Gloucester,  &c.  At  the  comer  of  Marlborough  and  Berkeley  Streets 
is  the  *  rich  and  elegant  building  (with  English  glass,  n  German  organ, 
and  an  exquisite  little  cloister)  of  the  First  Church  in  Boston  (Unita- 
rian). This  society  dates  from  1630.  Near  by,  on  the  comer  of  Berke- 
ley and  Newbury  Sts.,  v  the  miniature  cathedral  of  the  Central  Congre- 
gational Society.  It  is  of  Roxbury  stone,  in  cruciform  siiape,  has  a  stone 
spire  240  ft,  high,  and  is  rich  in  lofty,  pointed  windows,  pinnacles,  flying 
buttresses,  &c.  It  cost  $  325,000.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  Emanuel  Church 
(Episcopal)  on  Newbury  St.,  and  the  fine  brownstone  Arlington  St 
Chui'ch  (Unitarian)  with  its  melodious  chime  of  bells.  Alongside  the  Cen- 
tral Church  is  the  fine  building  of  the  Society  of  Natural  History,  where 
courses  of  lectures  are  given.  The  extensive  collections  embrace  birds, 
shells,  re})tiles,  fishes,  insects,  fossils,  with  sections  devoted  to  ethnology, 
geology,  i)alneo;)tology,  mineralogy,  and  microscopy.  The  finest  collection 
of  mounted  skeletons  in  America  is  kept  here.  The  classic  building  of 
the  Institute  of  Technology  is  close  to  tlie  Museuni.  This  is  a  richly- 
endowed  popular  school  of  high  order,  whose  object  is  to  teach  the  appli- 


es? 


*) 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.       17 


in  the 
;on  St. 
le  city, 
sound 
ms  old 
Fair- 
treets 
organ, 
lUnita- 
erke- 
ongre- 
stone 
flying 
hurch 
n  St 
Cen- 
^vhe^e 
birds, 
logy, 
ction 
ig  of 
hly- 
ppli- 


I 


f 


cation  of  science  to  tlie  useful  arts,  for  which  purpose  it  is  provided  with 
fine  cabinets  and  apparatus. 

The  *  State  House  (PI.  13)  is  on  the  summit  of  Beacon  Hill,  fronting 
the  Common.  Its  corner-stone  was  drawn  to  the  place  July  4,  1795, 
by  fifteen  white  horses,  amid  great  ceremoJiies.  The  most  prominent  ob- 
jects on  tjie  exterior  are  tlie  fine  Corinthian  colonnade  and  the  high  round 
dome.  When  the  Legishiture  (or  General  Court)  is  in  session,  national 
flags  are  displayed  from  ihe  buikUng.  The  *  Doric  Hall,  at  the  entrance, 
is  a  neat,  marble-paved  room,  supported  by  colunnis,  und  surrounded  by 
high  niches,  fronted  with  plate-glass,  in  which  are  gathered  the  banners 
of  the  Massachusetts  regiments  borne  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  On  the 
right  are  busts  of  Char-les  Sunnier  and  Samuel  Adams,  rnd  on  the  left  a 
bust  of  Abraham  Lincoln  and  a  statue  of  Gov.  John  A.  Andrew,  by  Ball. 
In  a  marble-paved  and  Ijanner-hung  rotunda,  opening  on  the  Doric  Hall, 
is  Chantrey's  *  Statue  of  Washington,  in  front  of  which  are  copies  of  the 
monuments  of  the  old  Washington  family,  at  Brington^  in  Northampton- 
sliire.  The  House  of  Representatives  (up  stairs  to  the  left  from  the  Doric 
Hall)  is  a  plain  and  somewhat  crowded  hall,  witli  a  codfish  hanging  from 
the  roof,  as  emlle\natie  of  a  prolific  source  of  the  wealtli  o*"  the  State. 
Tlie  Senate  Chamber  is  on  the  other  side,  and  is  adorned  l)y  some  ohl  por- 
traits and  trophies.  The  extensive  State  Library  is  in  the  west  wing. 
From  the  dome  of  tiie  State  House  (open  when  the  Legislature  is  not  in 
session)  is  obtained  a  fine  *  view.  Boston  Harbor,  with  its  islands,  and 
peninsulas,  and  the  distant  blue  ocean,  fill  the  east ;  in  the  north  are 
Charlestown,  its  Navy  Yard  and  Monument,  with  Lynn,  Chelsea,  Maiden, 
and  Medford  ;  to  the  west,  Charles  River  and  Back  Bay,  Cambridge,  Brigh- 
ton, Brooldine,  iJid  Newton  ;  and  in  the  south,  Roxbury  and  Dorchester, 
with  the  blue  lulls  of  Milton  far  away.  On  the  terraces  in  front  of  the 
building  are  bronze  statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and  Horace  Mann,  the 
great  educationist.  The  house  opi)osite  (corner  Park  and  Beacon  Sts.) 
was  for  40  years  the  home  of  George  Ticknor,  author  of  the  "  History 
of  Spanish  Literature,"  in  3  volumes  (translated  into  German  and  Span- 
ish), who  bequeathed  4,000-5,000  Sp;aiish  books  to  the  Public  Library. 
The  Union  Club  (600  members),  a  patriotic  organization  formed  in  1863, 
occupies  the  iie.xt  house  below  (on  Park  St.).  On  Beacon  St.,  near  the 
State  House,  is  the  *  Boston  Atheneeum,  a  neat,  brownstone  building, 
in  the  Palladian  style.  On  the  lower  Hoor  is  the  library  of  the  American 
Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  aid  a  large  reading-room  adorned  with 
statuary.  In  the  vestibule  are  casts  of  Houdon's  Washington  and  of 
Sophocles,  also  a  marble  statue  —  The  First  Inspiration  of  Columbus  — 
by  Montaverde,  auu  a  bronze  group  —  the  Boy  and  the  Eagle  —  by  Green- 
ouijh.  Among  the  statuary  in  the  reading-room  is  Ori)h'^"<?  in  Hades, 
Crawford  ;  Hebe  and  Ganymede,  (Jraioford  ;  Children,  Greenoi^gh  ;  and 

B 


f^ 


I 


18     Umite  1. 


BOSTON, 


fine  casts  of  Tliorwaldsen's  Venus,  Angelo's  Night  and  Morning,  the 
Laocoon,  Apollo  Belvedere,  Minerva,  Menander,  Barberini  Fann,  &c.  On 
the  second  floor  is  a  noble  library  of  nearly  100,000  volumes,  including 
the  library  of  Washington,  and  400-500  volumes  of  engravings.  Th'; 
building  and  its  contents  being  owned  by  the  Athenaeum,  an  introduction 
fi-om  one  of  its  members  will  give  strangers  tlie  benefits  of  the  library. 
Tlie  stairways  are  lined  witli  large  paintings,  and  on  the  third  floor  is 
the  Picture  Gallery  (fee,  25cts.).  300-350  pictures  are  on  exhibition 
liere,  mostly  copies  from  the  old  masters. 

Tlie  original  works  (nuiribers  often  changed)  are,  *  Sortie  from  Gibraltar,  Tniin- 
huU  {his  mantcrit'nifo)  ;  Arch  of  Oetavius,  iiicrstaJt;  I3elshazzar's  Feast,  Allstoii 
("The  Aniorlcau  Titian");  Mount  Washington,  Gay;  *  Isaac  of  York,  Allston ; 
Indian  Captive,  Weir ;  Angels  appearing  to  yhei)hurds,  C'^'e ;  Priam  and  dead 
lletttor,  Trumbull;  y)()rtr;iits  of  *  Washington  and  his  Wife,  Stuart;  Benjamin 
West,  Alhton ;  Daniol  WeUster,  Chief  Justice  Marshall,  Harding ;  William  Tudor, 
Sully  ;  the  Rajah  Kamniohun  lloy,  i2.  Pculc  ;  William  Wirt,  Invmn ;  *  Count  of 
Wurtemberg  mourning  over  his  Dead  Son,  Ary  ScJuieffer ;  Storm  at  Sea,  //«e. 
Garden  of  Love,  Wattean ;  two  fruit-pieces,  Peter  Jioel ;  LandavaiMi,  Ruysdael ; 
Dante  and  Beatrice,  Schaeffer ;  The  ^'laying  of  Marsyas,  and  the  Golden  Age, 
Luca  Giordano.  There  are  a  great  number  of  cojjies  (in  oil)  of  famous  European 
l)ietures,  and  in  one  room  50  of  the  chromo-lithograijhs  of  the  Arundel  S'oci(  ■ 
(London),  being  copies  of  famous  religious  i)aintings  in  the  noontide  of  i  it  < 
these  rooms  are  casts  of  the  antique  works,  —  the  Quoit-Players,  Piping  Faun,  .si- 
lenus  and  Bacchus,  Boy  with  a  thorn  in  his  foot,  the  Venus  de  Milo,  and  the 
Dying  Gladiator,  with  busts  of  Julius  Ca;sar,  Augustus,  Tiberius,  Caligula.  Clau- 
dius, Nei'o,  Galba,  Otho,  Vitellius,  Vespasian,  Titus,  Domitian,  Nerva,  Trajan.  Ha- 
drian, tlie  Antonines,  &e.  A  beautiful  marble  copy  of  the  Venus  de  Medici  is  in 
one  room,  also  (in  marble)  Greek  Girl,  by  Wolf;  *  Maid  of  Carthage,  G>ee«ou[//t  ; 
Will  o'  tlie  Wisp,  Harriet  Hosmer  ;  *  Venus  V^ictrix,  Greenough. 

One  room  is  occujiied  by  a  large  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  Piu bracing 
hundreds  of  figures  of  the  gods  Osiris,  Amun,  Ilorus,  Isis,  &c.,  in  bronze,  marble, 
wood,  porcelain,  and  terra-cotta  ;  also  a  large  number  ot  scaraba'i,  amulets,  vases, 
and  curious  jewels.  There  are  also  seven  human  munnnies,  with  a  great  number 
of  funereal  trappings,  and  munnnies  of  monkeys,  lambs,  ibises,  cats,  liawks,  mice, 
crocodiles,  tortoises,  snakes,  &c.  There  are  1,100  pieces  in  this  collection  (cata- 
logue, at  the  door,  25  cts.). 

In  the  next  room  are  several  hundred  lamps,  amphora;,  cups,  statuettes,  heads, 
weapons,  &c.,  from  IdaUum,  on  the  Island  of  Cyprus,  of  j-ieat  intei'est  to  the 
student  of  early  Phoenician  and  Greek  history.  The  Appleton  collection  is  on  the 
same  floor,  containing  many  Gri\>eo-Italian  lictile  i)ainted  vases  from  Etruscan 
and  Campanian  toLibs.  Some  elaboiate  old  (uibinets  contiiin  fine  Venetian  glass- 
ware, and  a  large  number  of  rich  majolica  i)lates  are  exhibited.  A  large  piece  of 
Gobelins  tapestry  (France  crowned  by  Victory  and  attended  by  Minerva)  occupies 
one  end  of  the  I'oom  ;  at  the  other  end  is  a  groui)  of  plaster  casts  from  famous  Italian 
bas-reliefs,  near  which  is  a  Madonna  and  Cliild,  by  Luca  delta  Itohhia,  and  the 
Virgin  adoring  the  infant  Jesus,  by  Andyea  delta  RolMa.  Two  large  pictures  by 
Boucher,  two  by  Allston,  a  large  collection  of  ancient  coins  (a  gold  Alexanuer),  and 
the  rich  oaken  panels,  carved  and  g'Kled,  from  the  Chateau  Montmorency,  are 
worthy  of  n.^i.e.  The  positions  of  the  pictures  and  curiosities  are  so  often  changed 
that  a  n^ore  careful  list  would  be  of  no  permanent  use. 

Near  the  Athensum  is  Pemberton  Square,  the  site  of  an  old  Indian  ne- 
cropolis, where  300  skulls  were  dug  up  in  Cotton  Mather's  time.  Gover- 
nor Endicott  and  Sir  Henry  Vane  lived  near  this  spot,  and  in  later  days 
it  was  an  aristocratic  centre.  Now  its  houses  are  occupied  by  offices,  and 
in  the  Mission  Rooms  (number  35)  is  kept  a  small  museum  of  curiosities 
from  "  lands  of  heatlienesse."  Louishury  Square  is  a  stately  and  silent  place 


m 


h 


t 


m 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.       19 


«N 


on  the  fartlier  slope  of  Beacon  Hill,  embellislieJ  with  statues  of  AristiJes 
£',nd  Cohunl)us.  Near  the  State  House  is  a  vast  atul  massive  granite 
structure,  200  feet  square  and  Q'o  f » "t  high,  on  Derne  St.,  which  is 
called  the  Beacon  Hill  Reservoir,  and  holds,  at  this  high  level,  about 
2,700,000  gallons  of  water. 

The  Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind  was  founded  in  1831,  by  Dr.  S. 
G.  Howe.  It  was  favored  by  liberal  popular  contributions,  and  now  oc- 
cupies large  buildings  on  Mt.  Washington,  S.  Boston.  Charles  Dickens 
visited  and  highly  praised  this  institution,  as  also  the  charitable  and  cor- 
rective establishments  in  a  secluded  position  near  Independence  Scpiare, 
S.  Boston  (In  ane  Hospital  and  House  of  Correction). 

"Such  are  the  institutions  at  South  Boston.  In  all  of  them  the  unfortunate  or 
ileyenerate  citizens  of  the  State  arc  carefully  instruut('<l  in  their  duties  both  to 
(j()(l  ;uid  man  ;  -re  surrounded  by  all  reasonable  means  of  comfort  or  happiness 
that  their  ccmdition  will  admit  of  ;  and  are  ruled  by  the  stronj^  Heart,  and  not  by 
tlie  strong  (tliouj^h  immeasurably  weaker)  Hand."  —  Dickkns. 

The  extensive  Carney  Hospital  (managed  by  Sisters  of  (Jharity)  is  near  by  on 
tlie  hill,  and  above  it  is  a  reservoir  and  small  park  near  the  site  of  the  old  foi-t. 
On  the  bri;^ht,  moonlit  night  of  Marcli  :{,  177'j,  General  Thomas  and  2,000  Ameri- 
eans  advanced  fpiietly  to  this  i)oint  (Don  hester  Heii^lits),  and,  when  morning 
tl.iwiicil,  two  strong  forts  were  compU'ted  within  point-blank  range  of  Boston, 
iiord  Percy  and  2,400  royal  trooi)s  were  ordered  to  attack  them,  ami  Washington 
himself,  with  4,000  men,  awaited  the  ciiset.  But  a  storm,  "propitious  to  the 
real  interests  of  the  British  arniy,"  prevented  Percy  from  crossing  tlie  harbor.  A 
few  days  later  the  city  was  heavily  bombarded,  and  a  nev,  fort  having  been  built 
still  nearer,  the  royal  forces  were  forced  to  evacuate  Boston.  Marcli  IS,  sailing 
away  in  150  transports,  and  carrying  with  them  3,000  New-Englandei-s  who  re- 
mained loyal  to  King  George.  From  +his  little  park  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
Bohton  and  its  harbor,  and  of  Dorchester  and  the  southern  suburbs. 


The  South  End. 

The  district  south  of  Boylston  and  Essex  Sts.  is  mainly  occupied  by 
dwelling-houses,  and  Washington  St.,  with  its  retail  stores  and  hotels, 
runs  through  its  centre.  The  greater  part  of  this  district  has  been  re- 
claimed fiom  the  water.  Near  the  line  of  Dover  St.  a  wall  garnished 
with  cannon  formerly  crossed  the  Neck  and  defended  the  town.  Union 
Park  and  Worcester  and  Chester  Squares  are  embellished  with  trees  and 
fountains  and  surrounded  with  fine  residences.  Columbus  Ave.,  on  the 
north,  is  abroad  thoroughfare  of  aristocratic  pretensions  and  forming  an 
admirable  drive-way.  On  Tremont  St.  is  the  imposing  white  granite 
edifice  of  Odd  Fellows'  Hall  (built  1871-73),  and  beyond  it  some  fine 
churches,  the  best  of  which  is  the  quaint  and  rambling  Methodist  Church. 
On  Harrison  Ave.,  near  Concord  St.,  is  tlie  City  Hospital  (PI.  10.)  with 
a  fine  building  (surmounted  by  a  dome)  in  the  centre,  joined  to  the 
spacious  wings  by  curving  colonnades.  Near  the  Hospital  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Home  for  Orphans,  and  the  Jesuit  Church  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  (with  a  fine  interior,  and  famed  for  its  music),  connected  with 
which  is  Boston  College. 


Ill 


i 


20       Iloute  S. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


The  Roman  Catholic  *  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross  is  on  the  corner  of 
"Wasliington  and  Maiden  Sis.  This  stately  structure  was  commenced  in 
1867,  and  is  yet  far  from  completion.  The  mediaeval  Gothic  architec- 
ture? has  been  closely  adhered  to  in  its  construction,  tliough  in  its  phase  of 
severest  simplicity.  Its  external  length  (including  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy 
Cross)  is  305  ft, ;  the  nave  is  320  ft.  long  and  120  ft.  high.  The  Cathedral 
is  188  ft,  wide  at  the  transepts,  and  in  the  nave  and  aisles  its  width  is  90 
ft.  The  external  length  is  greater  than  that  of  the  Cathedrals  at  Vienna, 
Ratisbon,  Munich,  Orvieto,  Messina,  Monrealc,  Pisa,  Venice,  Freibourg, 
Treves,  or  St.  Denis.  It  is  higher  (in  the  nave)  than  the  Cathedrals  ut 
Vienna,  Munich,  Paris,  Spires,  Strasburg,  Freibourg,  Rheims,  Chartres, 
Antwerp,  or  St.  Ouen  at  Rouen.  The  main  spire  is  to  reach  a  height  of 
320  ft.,  and  to  be  provided  with  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  St.  Patrick's  Ca- 
thedral, at  New  York,  and  the  Montreal  Cathedral  (just  commenced)  are 
the  only  rivals  in  America  of  the  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross.       ^   , ,    „ . 


2.   Environs  of  Boston. 


i'< 


"  It  is  not  only  in  the  Harvard  lu'ecincts  tliat  the  oldness  o,'  New  England  is  to 
1)6  remarked.  Altliough  lier  people  are  everywhere  in  the  vunguard  of  all  pro- 
giess,  their  country  has  a  look  of  gable-ends  and  steeple-hats,  while  their  laws 
seem  fresh  from  the  hands  of  Alfred.  In  all  England  there  is  no  city  which  has 
suburbs  so  gray  and  venerable  as  the  elm-shaded  towns  around  Boston,  —  Dorches- 
ter, Clielsea,  Nahant,  and  Salem  ;  the  peoi)le  speak  the  English  of  Elizabeth,  and 
joke  about  us  —  '  he  speaks  good  English  for  an  Englishman.' "  —  Sin  Charles 
Djlk£. 

Boston  Harbor. 

The  Soute  to  Nahant.  Soon  after  leaving  India  Wharf,  with  East 
Boston  on  the  left,  Governor's  Island  is  passed  on  the  r,  Tliis  island 
was  granted  to  Governor  Winthrop  in  1G32,  and  was  long  called  Gover- 
nor's Garden,  and  here,  according  to  Josselyn,  in  1638,  were  the  only 
apple  and  pear  trees  in  New  England,  A  powerful  fortress  of  the  United 
States,  called  Fort  Winthrop,  now  occupies  the  island.  Soon  after  pass- 
ing the  Fort  ti:t  steamer  enters  a  narrow  strait,  between  Point  Shirley 
on  the  1,  and  Deer  Island  on  +be  r.  The  point  was  named  in  honor 
of  William  Shirley,  Governor  of  Massachusetts  1741  to  1756,  sometime 
commander  of  the  British  armies  in  America,  and  Governor  of  the  Ba- 
hama Islands,  It  now  forms  the  S,  end  of  the  town  of  Winthrop,  and 
is  occupied  by  Taft's  Hotel,  widely  renowned  for  its  excellent  fish  and 
game  dinners.  Opposite  Point  Shirley  is  Deer  Island  (4^  M.  from 
Boston),  "  so-called  because  of  the  deare,  who  often  swim  thither  from 
the  maine  when  they  are  chased  by  the  wolves  "  (17th  century).  During 
the  war  of  King  Philip  (1675  -  76)  this  place  presented  a  piciful  sight, 
for  hundreds  of  Indian  prisoners  were  landed  and  guarded  here,  and 
scares  of  them  died  of  hunger  and  from  exposure  to  the  winter  frosts.  At 
present  the  island  is  occupied  by  the  iumiense  buildings  (In  the  form  of  a 


tt 


it 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


RoiitoS.       21 


Latin  Cross)  of  the  Boston  i  Imshouse,  and  of  the  House  of  Industry  an<l 
the  House  of  Reformation, 

In  May,  1776,  the  Boston  privateere  *' Franklin"  and  "Lady  Wash- 
ington "  grounded  on  Point  Shirley,  and  were  attacked  by  thirteen  British 
man-of-war  boats.  The  action  lasted  for  several  hours,  until  the  tide 
rose,  when  the  privateers  escaped.  In  the  war  of  1812  the  frigate  ''Con- 
stitution "  was  once  blockaded  in  Boston  Harbor,  and  got  away  by  creep- 
ing through  Shirley  Gate  by  night.  Beyond  Point  Shirley  the  lofty  blutts 
of  Vvinthrop  are  passed  on  the  1.,  succeeded  by  Chelsea  Beach  with  its 
hotels,  and  the  City  and  Harbor  of  Lyiui,  in  full  view  of  which  the  wharf 


at  Nahant  is  gained. 


Nahant. 


By  steamer  direct  from  India  Wharf,  Boston,  or  by  Eastern  Railroad  to  Lynn, 
and  thence  by  omnibus  6  times  <laily. 

Hotels.  —  The  immense  liotcl  at  Erist  Point,  built  1824,  and  long  the  pride  of 
the  coast,  was  Imnied  in  1801  ;  there  remain  but  small  hotels,  —  Whitney's  Vil- 
lage Hotel,  Bay  View  Cottage,  Hood  Cottage. 

Nahant  is  a  peninsula  composed  of  ocean-swept  rocks,  with  pleasant 
beaches  interspersed,  and  villas  scattered  over  its  heights,  where  many  of 
the  cultured  and  literary  people  of  Boston  and  Cambridge  spend  their 
summers.  It  is  12  M.  from  Boston  by  water  and  4  M.  from  Lynn  by 
land.  Crossing  the  long  and  narrow  sandy  isthmus  called  Lynn  Beach, 
with  the  roar  of  surf  continuous  on  the  ocean-front,  the  rocky  ridge 
of  Little  Nahant  is  passed,  and  Nahant  Bef'.ch  extends  to  the  peninsula 
proper.  Mr.  Tudor,  who  for  years  supplied  Massachusetts  ice  to  the 
four  qiiarters  of  the  world,  and  hence  is  called  the  ''  Ice-King,"  has  fitted 
up  a  pleasant  resort  for  visitors  on  the  north  side  of  Nahant.  About  20 
acres  of  picturesqv.c  grounds  along  the  sea,  adorned  with  fountains  and 
shell-work,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Lynn  and  Swampscott,  com- 
pose this  Garden  of  Maolis  (Siloam).  Entrance  fee,  25  cts.  A  good 
fish  or  clam  dinner  may  l)e  luid  in  the  Maolis  pavilions.  Among  the 
jagged  and  savage-browed  cliffs  of  Nahant  are  numberless  curious  forma- 
tions of  tlie  rock,  named  asfoUows :  John's  Peril,  24  deep  chasm  in  the 
cliffs,  on  the  north,  and  near  Nahant  Beach  ;  the  Spouting  Horn,  where 
the  surf  dashes  through  a  long,  rocky  tunnel  into  a  cavern,  and  there  is 
spouted  forth  with  great  force  ;  Castle  Rock,  a  massive  and  regular  pile 
of  rock,  faintly  resembling  some  ancient  castle-keep  ;  Caldron  Clitf  and 
Roaring  Cavern  are  grandly  resonant  in  time  of  storms ;  Natural  Bridge, 
ftU  arch  of  rock  spanning  a  narrow,  tide-swept  fissure  ;  Pulpit  Rock ;  and 
Sappho's  Rock.  The  three  last-named  are  on  East  Point,  the  site  of  the 
vast  hotel,  of  which  a  relic  remains,  in  the  shape  of  a  pretty  little  classic 
building  on  the  outermost  promontory,  which  looks  like  an  ancient  Greek 
shrine  on  some  cliff  of  the  yEgean,  and  which  really  was  a  billiaul- 
saloon. 


r 


22       Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


On  the  S.  shore  is  Swallows'  Cave,  a  cavern  72  ft.  deep,  increasing 
fronj  10  ft.  wide  and  5  ft.  high  to  14  ft.  wide  and  20  ft.  high.  Near  the 
tall  rock  arch  called  Irene's  Grotto  is  the  steamboat  landing.  N.  E. 
of  the  peninsula,  and  well  out  in  Nahant  Bay,  Egg  Rock  rises  sharply 
from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  8G  ft.,  and  is  crowned  by  a  lighthouse. 
Many  old  traditions  cluster  around  Nahant,  which  is  said  to  mean  "  Lov- 
ers' Walk." 

"  The  temperature  of  Nahant,  heing  moderate  J  by  sea  breezes,  so  as  to  be  cooler 
in  summer  and  milder  in  winter  than  the  mainland,  is  regarded  as  being  highly 
condueive  to  healtli.  It  is  (U^lightlul  in  summer  to  ramble  round  this  romantio 
peninsula,  and  tf)  examine  at  leisure  its  interesting  curiosities  ;  to  hear  the  waves 
rippling  the  culored  pebbles  of  the  beaches,  and  sec  them  gliding  over  the  ])ro- 
jecting  ledges  in  lanciful  cascades  ;  to  behold  the  ]ilovers  and  sandpipers  running 
along  the  lieaciies,  the  seal  slumbering  upon  the  outer  rocks,  the  white  gulls 
soaring  overhead,  the  porpoises  ]mrsuing  their  rude  gambols  along  the  shore,  and 
the  curlew,  the  loon,  the  black  duck,  and  the  coot,  the  brant,  with  his  dapple(l 
neck,  and  the  oldwile,  with  her  strange,  wild,  vocal  melody,  swimming  gracefully 
in  the  coves  and  rising  and  sinking  with  the  swell  of  the  tide.  The  moonlight  even- 
ings here  are  exceedingly  lovely  ;  and  the  phosphoric  radiance  of  the  billows,  on 
favorable  nights  (making  the  waters  look  like  a  sea  of  lire)  exhibits  a  scene  of 
wonderful  beauty."  —  Lewis. 

The  xvoute  to  Hull,  Hingham,  et.c.  So  many  are  the  routes  by  water 
to  the  South  Shore  that  the  islands  in  that  part  of  the  harbor  will  be 
spoken  of  without  regard  to  any  special  course. 

S.  Boston  is  first  passed  on  the  right,  and  then  Fort  Winthrop,  near 
which,  due  E.  of  S.  Boston,  is  Castle  Island.  Fortifications  were  built 
here  in  1G34,  "  to  make  many  shots  at  such  ships  as  shall  offer  to  enter 
the  harbor  without  their  good  leave  and  liking ;  it  is  of  very  good  use 
to  awe  any  insolent  persons,  that,  putting  confidence  in  their  ships  and 
sails,  shall  offer  any  injury  to  the  people,  or  contemn  their  government; 
and  they  have  certain  signals  of  alarms  (cannon  and  lights  on  Beacon  Hill) 
which  suddenly  spread  through  the  whole  country."  At  the  coronation 
of  King  William,  the  battery  was  called  Castle  William,  and  was  much 
strengthened  by  the  British,  until  at  the  evacuation  of  Boston  they  de- 
stroyed it.  It  was  repaired  by  the  Americans  in  time  to  fire  a  13-gun 
salute  for  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  (1777).  In  1798,  President  John 
Adams  being  present,  it  was  named  Fort  Independence,  and  ceded  to  the 
United  States.     The  present  fort  was  but  lately  completed. 

In  240  years  the  little  mud  fort,  passing  through  the  gradations  of  a 
wooden  i)alisade'  and  a  brick  "castle,"  has  developed  into  a  granite  fort- 
ress of  great  power  and  destructive  force.  S.  E.  of  Castle  Island  is  Spec- 
tacle Island,  where  are  carried  the  dead  horses  from  Boston,  and  farther 
S.  is  Thompson's  Island,  which  bears  the  State  Farm  School,  —  a  noblo 
institution,  where  the  neglected  street  arabs  and  poor  orphans  of  theStato 
are  cared  for.  Well-fed  and  clothed,  they  are  employed  in  farming  in  tho 
warmer  months,  and  schooling  in  the  winter,  and  at  the  age  of  twenty- 
one  receive   a  suit  of  clothes  and  one  hundred  dollars.      Eastward  of 


t4 


i 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


noiite  2.       23 


u 


93 


0 


Thompson's  is  Long  Island  (wlioro  the  steamer  stops),  the  site  of  a  large 
hotel  once  very  popular.  On  the  high  bluffs  of  this  island  is  an  iron 
lighthouse  whicli  can  be  seen  from  15  M.  off  at  sea.  A  powerful  bat- 
tery is  being  built  by  the  General  Government  at  the  head  of  Long  Island. 
E.  of  the  battery  is  the  reef  of  Nix's  Mate,  with  a  massive  pyramid  of 
stone  and  iron  32  ft.  high,  warning  seamen  of  a  dangerous  shoal.  In  1636 
**  Nixes  ilande  "  covered  12  acres,  and  it  long  served  as  a  place  to  execute 
pirates  and  murderers.  The  legend  reports  that  Captain  Nix  was  killed 
by  his  mate,  and  that  the  latter  was  executed  on  this  spot,  declaring  his 
innocence,  and  prophesying  that  the  island  would  wash  away  in  proof  of 
it.  The  fact  that  but  one  acre  of  shoal,  and  a  low,  narrow  ledge  of  rocks 
remain,  is  thought  to  help  the  legend  very  much. 

S.  E.  of  Long  Island,  and  7  M.  from  Boston,  is  Rainsford's  Island, 
where  a  hospital  was  locrted  in  1  "38,  which  is  still  in  operation.  Gal- 
loup's  Island,  to  the  N. ,  is  one  of  the  Quarantine  Stations.  Still  farther 
E.,  on  George's  Island,  stands  Fort  Warren,  a  powerful  fortress  of  the 
first  class,  called  the  key  of  Boston  Harbor.  It  was  built  between  1833 
and  1850,  of  hammered  Quincy granite  with  powerful  water-batteries.  Dur- 
ing the  Rebellion  many  Confederate  chiefs  were  imprisoned  in  its  case- 
mates, the  most  noted  of  whom  were  Mason  and  Slidell,  taken  from  the 
British  mail-steamer  "  Trent,"  Nov.  8,  1861,  by  Capt.  Wilkes,  of  the 
U.  S.  frigate  "  San  Jacinto."  The  British  government  made  a  peremptory 
demand,  and  President  Lincoln  finally  surrendered  these  rebel  commis- 
sioners, who  went  to  Europe  in  January,  1862.  2  miles  E.  of  Fort  War- 
ren, on  a  small  islet  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  stands  the  massive 
stone  shaft  of  Boston  Light.  This  structure  occupies  the  site  of  the 
lighthouse  established  in  1715,  and  is  furnished  with  a  powerful  revolving 
light  nearly  100  ft.  above  the  sea.  To  the  N.  is  a  cluster  of  rocky 
islets,  and  to  the  E.  is  the  Bug  Light,  over  Harding's  Ledge,  where  6  well- 
braced,  slender  iron  pillars  uphold  a  small  house,  over  which  is  a  fixed 
red  light.  * 

Hull  {several  good  hotels), 
a  small  village  under  the  lee  of  a  high  hill,  crowned  by  a  marine  observa- 
tory, is  much  visited  dui'ing  the  summer.  The  to^vn  of  Hull  occupies  the 
great  natural  breakwater  which  nins  N.  and  W.  fram  the  South  Shore, 
and  guards  the  harbor.  Its  population  is  small,  and  its  alertness  in 
political  campaigns,  joined  with  its  practical  insignificance  therein,  do 
not  *"ail  to  draw  forth  much  good-humored  jesting  from  the  Bostonians. 
The  load  to  the  outer  beach  leads  near  Point  Allerton  (from  Isaac  Aller- 
ton,  an  adventurous  Pilgrim,  who  cruised  the  coast  of  Maine  in  the  barque 
"  Wliite  Angel"  for  several  years,  early  in  the  17th  century).  The  road 
now  leads  out  on  Nantasket  Beach,  a  line  of  hard  and  surf-beaten  wliite 
sand,  4  M.  long.     The  bathing  here  is  very  fine,  and  driving  is  easy  and 


24      Rmte  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


pleasant  at  low  tide.  At  the  south  end  of  the  beach  are  several  hotels. 
(*  Rockland  House,  —  $  4.50  per  day,  $25.00  per  week,  —  a  palatial  edi- 
fice, ^  M.  from  the  landing;  Atlantic  House,  50  to  60  guests,  —  $3.00 
a  day,  $15.00  to  $18.00  a  week, — finely  situated  on  a  bluff  near  the 
water. ) 

This  part  of  the  beach  is  distant  ;^  M.  from  the  steamboat  landing  (12 
to  13  M,  from  Boston),  and  2  M.  from  the  South  Shore  Railroad  (18  M. 
from  Boston).  Fine  views  are  obtained  from  the  bluffs ;  the  harbor  islands 
in  the  W.,  a  broad  cxjianso  of  ocean  to  the  E.,  and  at  night  11  coast- 
lights  may  be  seen,  extending  from  Minot's  Ledge  to  Cape  Ann.  Parts 
of  Boston,  Lynn,  Nahant,  and  Quincy  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day. 

Steamers  for  Hull,  Nantasjket,  and  Ilingliam  leave  Liverpool  Wharf, 
Boston,  twice  daily  in  summer. 

Hingham  is  a  curious  old  village,  near  Nant  sket,  and  S.  of  the  har- 
bor, which  was  settled  in  1635,  and  was  often  ravaged  during  the  In- 
dian wars.  Its  first  pastor  came  from  Hingham,  in  England,  and  gave 
its  name  to  the  stniggling  colony.  Situated  amid  tine  coast-scenery,  but 
12  M.  (by  water)  from  Boston,  this  "Marine  Old  Hadley"  drew  many 
visitors,  and  its  large  hotel,  the  Old  Colony  House  (burned  in  Octo- 
ber, 1872)  was  well  patronized.  A  quaint  edifice  on  the  main  st.  near 
the  Railroad  Station,  built  nearly  square,  with  the  roof  sloping  steeply 
up  OTi  4  sides  to  a  balustraded  platform,  surmounted  by  a  narrow- pointed 
belfry,  is  "  the  oldest  church  in  Yankeedom."  It  was  built  in  1681, 
for  the  Congregational  Society  of  Hingham,  who  still  use  it. 

Be'iiind  the  church  is  the  *  old  graveyard,  covcrnif?  a  finely  terrac^ed  hill,  and 
contiiiuing  hundreds  of  ancient  stones.  In  tlift  southern  part  is  a  plain  and  grace- 
ful obeAisk  of  granite,  on  which  are  inscribed  tlie  names  of  76  soldiers  of  Hing- 
ham who  died  in  the  war  for  the  Union.  On  tlie  highest  hill,  on  a  mound 
surrounded  by  a  circular  earthwork,  is  a  tall  obelisk  of  granite  "To  the  early 
settlers  of  Hingham."  Elsewhere  rests,  in  an  unmarked  grave,  John  Albion  An- 
drew, the  great  war-governor  of  Massachusetts,  wlio,  during  the  battle-years 
1861  -  05,  did  more  than  any  other  man  to  raise,  equip,  and  forward  to  t!i.c  field 
the  immense  levies  of  troops  from  tliis  State.  He  was  distinguished  for  fervid 
eloquence,  great  executive  ability,  and  tender  provision  for  the  disabled  soldiers. 
He  died  in  18G7.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  cemetery  is  the  tomb  of  Beiyamin 
Lincoln,  a  major-general  in  the  Continental  Army,  second  in  connnand  of  the 
Army  of  the  North  which  captured  Burgoyne.  commander  of  the  Army  of  the 
South,  1778-80,  repulsed  from  Savannah  and  Stono  Ferry.  After  enduring  a 
siege  of  6  weeks  at  Charleston  (spring  of  1780),  he  was  forced  to  surrender  to 
Sir  Henry  Clinton.  Having  been  exchanged,  he  commanded  the  centre  at  York- 
town,  and  was  Secretary  of  War,  1781-8'!.  He  died  at  Hingham,  his  birthplace 
(1733),  in  1810. 

Ebenezer  Gay,  pastor  of  Hingham,  1718-87,  delivered  the  famous  sermon 
called  the  "Old  Alan's  Calendar"  on  his  eighty-lifth  bii-thday.  W.  A.  Gay,  the 
artist,  born  at  Hingham  in  1821,  was  long  a  (liscij)le  of  Troyon,  of  Paris,  and  is 
now  celebrated  for  liis  tine  paintings  of  coast-scenery  and  marine  life. 

Charlestowu  {Prescott  House)  is  a  city  of  Middlesex  County,  N.  of 
Boston,  and  united  with  it  by  2  bridges  over  the  Charles  River.  Its  pop- 
ulation is  28,330.     Soon  after  crossing  the  river  a  small  .^square  is  reached, 


' 


J 

r 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2. 


25 


'( 


^ 


where  extensive  domed  iMiildings  on  the  Uift  were  fornu'ily  occupied  as 
the  Waverley  Hotel.  Near  this  is  the  City  Hall,  in  which  is  a  fine  lilnary 
and  reading-room.  Main  St.,  to  the  right,  leads  to  the  United  States 
,vy  Yard,  covering  over  100  acres,  and  separated  from  the  city  by  a 
het>'y  stone-wall,  16  ft.  high.  A  sea-wall  extends  along  the  water-front, 
broken  only  by  a  few  wharves  rmd  a  great  dry-dock,  built  of  hammered 
granite,  341  ft.  long  and  80  ft.  wide,  and  costing  nearly  S  700,000. 
V\arious  construction-depots,  magazines  of  naval  stores,  barracks,  and 
work-shops  are  in  the  yard;  also  4  large  ship-houses,  and  a  granito- 
bnilt  rope- walk,  \  M.  long.  In  one  of  the  ship-houses  is  the  old  line-of- 
battle-ship  "  Virginia"  (designed  for  120  guns),  which  has  been  on  the 
itocks  for  nearly  half  a  century, 

Charlestown  has  a  handsome  soldiers'  monument, —  on  a  tall  pedestal,  a 
figure  of  America  crowning  r(!j)resentatives  of  the  Army  and  Navy,  who 
stand  below  her.  In  the  house  near  Bunker  Hill  Monument  is  a  tine 
statue  of  Gen.  Josei)h  Warren,  who  was  killed  on  tiie  Hill. 

On  Prison  Point  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  tlie  Massachusetts  State 
T'rison,  of  solid  granite  and  iron,  finely  ventilated  and  warmed,  and  sup- 
plied with  chapels,  school-rooms,  hosi)itals,  &c.,  in  such  manner  as  to 
make  it  a  model  prison.  The  convicts  are  kept  busily  envployed  in  mak- 
ing furniture,  upholstery,  shoes,  whips,  stone  and  iron  work,  and  are 
under  perfect  discipline. 

Not  far  from  the  prison  is  an  ancient  cemetery,  where  a  simple  and  mas- 
sive granite  shaft  has  been  erected  by  Harvard  alumni^  to  the  mi.raory  of 
John  Harvard,  the  early  benefactor  of  th«  University. 

The  principal  attraction  of  Charlestown  is  *  Bunker  Hill  Mom.  nent, 
a  lofty  obelisk  on  the  site  of  the  battle  of  Breed's  Hill  (1775).  It  is  built 
of  90  courses  of  Quiucy  gi-anite,  is  221  ft.  in  lieiglit,  and  i^O  ft,  square 
at  the  base.  A  spiral  flight  of  295  steits,  ranged  around  a  hollow  cone, 
leads  to  a  chamljcr  11  ft.  in  diameter,  witli  windows  on  each  side. 
Above  is  the  apex-stone,  Aveighing  2^  tons.  (A  small  fee,  20  cts.,  is  charged 
for  admission.  Books  about  the  monument,  &c.,  sold  in  the  porter's  lodge). 

The  *view  from  the  top  is  glorious.  From  the  S.  E.  window  the 
Navy  Yai'd  is  seen,  with  all  its  manifold  activities,  —  its  sliip-houses, 
dry-dock,  rope-walk,  and  frigates.  Beyond  this  is  the  confluence  of  the 
Charles  and  Mystic  Rivers,  and  East  Boston ;  above  which  is  Fort  War- 
ren at  George's  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  liarbor.  Forts  Winthrop 
and  Independence,  and  the  archipelago  of  variously  utilized  islands  whicJi 
dot  the  liarbor,  all  are  visible  from  tliis  point.  From  the  S.  W, 
window  is  seen  the  city  of  Boston,  with  Coj)p's  Hill  nearest  on  the  1. 
and  the  spires  and  domes  of  its  church  and  state  buildings  rising  on  all 
sides.  The  great  network  of  the  northern  railroads  and  higliways  crosses 
Charles  River  below,  while,  beyond  the  city,  the  southern  and  western 
2 


26       Jioute  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


roads  pinor^'o.  Farther  still,  on  tlie  r.,  is  S.  Boston,  and  over  it, 
Qnincy,  Dorchcsttn-,  and  the  l)lue  hills  of  Milton.  Over  Boston  are  Ilox- 
bury  and  Brool<!ine,  and  directly  hclow  are  the  houses  of  Charlestown. 
From  the  N.  W.  window,  the  State  Prison,  f'jiinbridf:^e,  and  Brighton, 
the  McLean  Asylum,  the  Harvard  0])servatory,  the  city  of  Somerville, 
Arlington,  and  MiMlford.  It  is  said  that,  in  very  clear  weather,  with  a 
strong  glass,  may  bo  seen  Mt.  Wachusett  (over  Cambridge),  and  succes- 
sively to  the  r.,  Mt.  Monadnock,  Kearsarge,  and  the  White  Mts.  in 
New  Hami»shire.  From  the  N.  E.,  Everett,  and  Revere  with  its  beach, 
the  city  of  Chelsea,  with  tho  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  and,  over  it,  tho 
city  of  Lynn.     Nahant  runs  into  tho  sea  to  the  r. 

The  corner-stone  of  this  stiitoly  iiionnnicnt  was  laid  in  1825  hy  Genpral  La 
Fayette,  on  tho  flftiotli  nniiiversary  of  tlio  l)attlc.  It  was  (completed  in  1842,  ami 
d«Mlicate«l  on  i\\v,  sixty-eiKlith  anniversary  of  the  l)attle,  in  tlie  prescMce  of  I'nsi- 
(li-iit  Tyler  and  his  (cabinet,  and  witli  an  oration  liy  Daniel  Wol)ster.  In  the  upj»er 
clianiber  are  two  cannon,  nanie<l  "Hancock"  an<l  "Adams,"  eaeh  inscribed, 
"  This  is  one  of  four  cannons  which  constitutcul  tlie  whole  train  of  tleld-artillery 
nosst'Hsod  1  7  tlie  Britisii  colonies  of  North  America  at  the  conimenceinent  of  the 
war,  tm  the  10th  of  April,  1775.  This  cannon  and  its  fellow,  belonging  to  a  num- 
ber of  citizens  of  Boston,  were  used  in  many  engagements  during  the  war.  The 
other  two,  the  property  of  the  Government  of  Massachusetts,  were  taken  by  the 
enemy." 

Battle  of  Bunker  HilL 

"  In  their  raffsrcd  regimentals 
Stood  tl\e  old  Continentals, 

Yieldinij  not. 
When  the  grenadiers  were  lunging, 
And  like  hail  fell  the  plunging 
Cannon-shot ; 
Wlicre  the  flies 
Of  the  isles 
From  the  smoky  night-encampment  bore  the  banner  of  the  rampant  unicorn, 
And  grunnner.grummcr,  gruninier,  rolled  the  roll  of  the  drummer  through  the  morn." 

After  an  impressive  prayer  by  President  Langdon,  of  Harvard  College,  on  a 
starry  night  of  June,  1775,  Colonel  Prescott  led  a  thousand  men  to  Bunker  Hill. 
His  hu'ce  was  compo.sed  of  troojjs  from  Essex,  Middlesex,  and  Connecticut,  with 
Gridley's  artillery.  His  orders  were  to  fortify  the  hill,  but  a  (!ouncil  of  officers  of 
the  detachment  changed  the  jtlan,  and  they  occnipied  Breed's  Hill,  as  much  nearer 
IJoston  and  more  surely  commanding  the  roads  to  the  north.  The  work  was 
eonnncnced  at  midnight,  under  the  supervision  of  General  Gridlcy,  an  old  veteran 
of  the  ijouisboi'.g  and  Canadian  wars,  and  by  dawn  they  had  comjjleted  a  rcdoul)t 
132  It.  s(iuare  and  G  ft.  high.  The  frigates  in  Charles  River  first  saw  it,  and 
opened  a  tremendous  lire,  which  awoke  all  Boston.  The  batteries  on  Copp's  Hill 
then  opened  tire,  and  at  noon  2,000  pictked  men  from  the  British  garrison  crossed 
tlie  river.  Tlie  New  England  flag  (blue,  with  St.  George's  Cross  on  the  pine-tree 
emblem)  was  hoisted  over  the  redoubt,  and  the  1st  and  2d  New  Hampshire  rein- 
forcetl  tlie  weary  provincials.  At  2  o'clock  2,000  more  soldiers  crossed  from  B(.s- 
ton,  and  s<ion  after,  after  a  furious  cann<made  from  Copp's  Hill  and  the  fleet,  the 
British  column  advanced.  Gen.  Putnam  ordered  the  Americans  to  hold  their 
lire  until  they  could  s«'e  the.  whites  of  the  assailants'  eyes  ;  f.iid  1500  silent  and 
determined  men  waited  till  that  appointed  time,  and  then  llred.  "  Whole  platoons 
of  the  British  regulars  were  laid  upon  the  earth,  like  grass  by  the  mower's  scythe. 
Other  deadly  volleys  followed,  and  the  enemy,  disconcerted,  broke,  and  fled 
toward  the  water."  While  they  rallied,  the  Copp's  Hill  guns  showered  hot  shot 
and  carcasses  on  Charlestown.  200  houses  soon  were  burning,  and  under  cover  of 
dense  masses  of  smoke  the  royai  forces  advanced  again.  The  volley  at  short 
range,  the  carnage,  and  the  1  'ght  of  the  British,  was  repeated.  The  American 
ammunition  was  now  exhausted,  the  presence  of  floating  batteries  raking  Charles- 


^ 


ENVIRONS  OP  BOSTON. 


Rnvle  2.       27 


7 


1 


^ 


town  Neck  prcvptitcd  ritlirr  rcinforf  emonts  or  fresh  st»i)]ilic.^from  rciuliiiif,'  tliciu  ; 
ami  t\w  Uritisli,  lin.ivily  rtMiilbrced,  and  niiulcleni'il  by  their  Ioshch,  udvaiicfil  a 
third  tinio.  Tii«'  outworks,  swept  by  the  nhot  from  the  fleet,  wore  nimndoned,  nncl 
wlien  the  f';renadiprs  rose  upon  the  i)ariipet  of  the  redoubt,  they  were  reeeiveil 
by  ft  Hhower  of  stones,  and  eonfronted  by  men  with  rhibbed  muskets.  Hoom  Put- 
nam ordered  a  retreat,  whicli  was  covered  admirably  l>y  the  troops  of  New  Hami)- 
Bhire  and  Connecticut.  Hut  tlie  reserves  on  Hunker  Hill,  the  rear-^'uard,  and  tlm 
shattered  garrison  from  Hreed's  Hill,  w(ue  unequal  to  further  efl'ort,  and  thero 
ensued  aneuoral  (Ichnnihulu  acro.ss  the  cannon-swept  ('harlestown  Neck.  The  day 
was  ended  ;  and  although  Howe  soon  moved  the  bulk  of  his  army  on  these  hills, 
which  he  stron^dy  fortilled,  no  further  combats  were  seen  here.  In  the  battle  of 
the  17th  of  June,  the  Americans  lost  115  killeil,  H05  wounded,  and  30  prisoners  ; 
the  Hritish  lost  2'2()  killed,  8.JS  wounded  (Game's  rei)ort).  40i)  houses  were  burnt 
in  Cliarlestown,  and  5  cannon  were  taken  on  JJunker  Hill.  During'  the  retre.it 
from  the  redoubt,  Putnam  swore  frightfully  at  his  men,  and  after  the  war,  sin- 
cerely confessin;^  it  to  the  chundi  of  which  ho  was  a  nu'iuber,  he  added,  "  It  wa.s 
almost  cnou;;h  to  make  an  an;,'el  swear,  to  see  the  cowards  refuse  to  secure  a  vic- 
tory so  nearly  won."  AmouH  the  last  to  leave  the  hill  was  Warren,  and  ere  he. 
had  gone  far  he  was  killed  by  a  siiot  in  the  heail.  Josepli  Warren,  born  Koxbury, 
174t»,  was  the  head  of  the  medical  profession  in  Boston,  and  a  wise  and  patriotic; 
leader  of  the  people.  He  was  the  President  of  tlie  ProviiKual  Congress,  a  mn,jor- 
general  of  the  army,  and  (Irand  Master  of  the  Ma.sonic  Order  in  America.  "  lln 
fell  with  a  luimerous  baml  of  kindred  sjiirits  -the  gray-haired  veteran,  the  strip- 
ling in  the  flower  of  yoiitli —  will)  had  stood  side  by  side  on  that  dreadful  (lay, 
and  fell  together,  like  the  beauty  of  Israel  in  their  high  places." —  Everett. 

Chelsea  (Winnisimmet),  {Citj/  Hotel),  a  city  of  18,547  inhabitants,  is 
connected  witli  Boston  by  a  steam  fen'y  (IjJ  M.),  and  with  Charlestowu 
by  a  long  l)ridge  over  the  Mystic  River.  The  Naval  Hospital  and  the  U. 
S.  Marine  Hosi)ital,  tlie  latter  a  large  and  stately  Ijuilaing,  are  here.  Near 
the  Railroad  Station  is  a  Soldiers'  Monument,  —  a  shat>,  of  granite  with  a 
statue  of  a  soMier  standing  at  ease  upon  its  summit.  Woodlawn  Ceme- 
tery is  about  2  M.  from  the  city,  and  is  approached  by  a  graceful  ave- 
nue, leading  through  a  lofty  Gotliic  gateway.  The  Rock  Tower,  to  tlie 
right,  is  a  rude  pile  of  boulders,  78  ft.  in  diameter  and  30  ft.  high, 
from  which  a  pretty  view  is  obtained.  Netherwood  and  Wooilside  Aves. 
form  beautiful  vistas,  with  the  quiet  grace  of  American  cemeteries  on 
every  hand.  Netherwood  Pond,  the  views  from  Chapel  and  Elm  Hills, 
and  the  curious  Ginko  trees,  are  worthy  of  attention. 

Chelsea  (Revere)  Beach. 

Horse-cars  from  Boston  hourly  in  summer.  The  Eastern  Railroad  runs  near 
th5  shore,  with  stations  at  Revere  {\%  M.  off)  and  Oak  Grove  (J  M.).  Hotels. 
Atlantic  House  and  several  .smaller,  near  the  horse-car  station  ;  Revere  House, 
f  M.  north  ;  Ocean  House,  on  Pine  Point,  '2  M.  north  of  hoi-se-car  station. 

Revere  Beach  is  about  5  M.  from  Boston,  and  is  much  visited  by 
the  citizens  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  It  is  a  wide,  snK>oth,  hard,  san<iy 
bhore,  3  M.  long,  well  adapted  for  driving  or  walking.  Being  shel- 
tered by  Nahant,  Avhich  lies  about  5  I\I.  olf  shore,  and  by  Winthrop 
Bluffs  on  the  south,  it  has  but  a  moderate  surf.  Pitie  Point,  its  northern 
extremity,  faces  the  city  of  Lynn  and  the  openings  of  Saugus  River  into 
Lynn  Harbor. 


f- 


28      Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


i. 


•  t 


111 


Lexington  and  Concord. 

Thfl  ff)rmrr  villaxf  is  renchofl  by  trains  on  tho  FjCxiriKti'ii  riranrli  Railroad,  from 
the  Hosfoii  a!i(l  l/nvcU  Dcjm)!,  in'40  Id  M  niiiiutps.  IJy  tlio  fall  of  187.'<  tin-  rail- 
road will  iirnhahlv  lit;  cxti-ndcd  fo  ('<•;, lurd.  At  prcscut,  Concord  is  reached  lijr 
the  trains  oft.  i^  FiUdibiirg  Railroad  in  1  hr. 

Lexington  (Mnnvment  J/ouse)^  a  (luiet  and  pretty  village  12  to  1.5 
M.  N.  W.  of  Boston,  is  built  on  one  long  street,  terminating  on  the 
west  in  a  broad  green,  on  which  is  a  plain  niouunient,  more  solid  than 
graceful,  in  memory  of  8  men  killed  here  during  the  battle. 

Concord  (Middlesex  llotd),  near  the  tran(iuil  Concord  River,  and 
the  junction  of  the  Assabet  and  Sudbury  Rivers  (so-called),  is  a  liand- 
somo  village  of  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  about  20  M,  from  Boston. 
In  1G35  I'eter  Bulkley,  of  St.  .Folin's  (Jollege,  Cambridge,  and  21  years 
rector  of  Odell,  was  silenced  by  Archbishop  Laud,  and  Ihid  to  America. 
In  163G  he  purchased  of  the  Indians  a  tract  of  land  at  Musketafjuid,  and 
founded  the  town  and  church  of  Concord,  .so-named  from  the  peacefiil 
manner  of  its  ac(]uisition.  Bulkley  wrote  some  Latin  poems  and  Puritan 
theological  theses,  and  "was  as  remarkable  for  benevolence  and  kind  deal- 
ing as  for  strict  virtue." 

But  it  is  during  the  inesent  rentnry  that  the  lives  of  three  of  the  foremost 
literary  men  of  Anuirica  liavo  made  Concord  famous.  Ilcnry  D.  Thoreau  (H. 
U.,  1H'J7),  an  eccentric  yet  i)rof(nnid  scholar  and  naturalist,  in  1845  built 
himself  a  hut  on  the  shores  of  the  st<«incstered  Waldcn  Pond  (I  M.  H.  E.  of 
the  village),  where  he  led  a  retduse  lite,  raising  a  few  vc,i;ct;ilih'S,  and  oceasi  •<- 
ally  siu'vcying  or  cariientcrinj,'  to  get  money  for  his  slij.'lit  expenses.  He  r 
voted,  never  entered  a  church,  never  i)aitl  a  tax.  rnd'onndly  skilled  in  c) 
and  Oriental  literature,  and  an  anient  naturalist,  his  (diicf  delight  was  to  i 
long  i)edestrian  excursions  to  the  forests  and  lakes  and  ocean-shores  of  New 
England.  Of  himself  he  said,  "  I  am  as  unlit  for  any  practical  pnrjio.sc  as  gossa- 
mer is  for  ship-timber."  "  Thoreau  dedicated  his  genius,  with  such  entire  love,  to 
the  fields,  hiil.-».  and  waters  of  his  native  town,  that  he  made  them  known  and  in- 
teresting to  all.  He  grew  to  be  revered  and  admired  by  his  townsmen,  who  had 
at  llrst  known  him  only  as  an  oddity."—  Emkuson.  He  died  in  1800,  leaving  bin 
great  work  unlinished,  and  his  only  remains  are  several  quaint  and  charming 
books  of  travel. 

Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  (H,  U.,  1821),  "the  sage  of  Concord,"  or,  as  Fredrika 
13remer  calls  him,  "  the  Sphinx  in  Concord,"  is  the  head  of  the  .school  of 
transcentlental  philosophy  in  America  and  in  the  world.  Descended  from 
seven  generations  of  ministers,  and  himself  sometime  a  minister,  in  early  life 
he  joined,  and  since  has  led,  the  mo.st  advanced  and  rcftned  school  of  modern 
transcendental  philosophy.  His  writings  are  "  distinguished  for  a  singular  union 
of  poetic  imagination  with  practical  acuteness,"  and  also  by  a  remarkable  pungency 
and  compressed  Ion  e.  During  his  visits  to  Europe  much  honor  has  been  sTiown 
him,  ami  many  of  the  greatest  mimls  of  the  century  have  visited  "the  pretty  little 
idyllian  city  of  Concord  "  (Bukmkii)  to  hold  interviews  with  him.  Thoreau,  G.  W. 
Curtis,  in  his  residence  at  Concord  in  1844  -  45,  and  Hawthorne  have  been  his 
Iriends  at  home.  (The  old  Emerson  homestead  was  burnt,  July  24,  1872,  shortly 
after  which  the  philosopher  went  to  Europe  for  a  long  absence.) 

Nathaniel  Hawthorne  (Bowdoiu  College,  1825),  whose  excpiisite  prose  composi- 
tion is  world-renowned,  lived  at  Concord  in  1843  -  4U,  and  here  wrote  the  "  Mosses 
from  an  Old  Manse."    (See  Salem,  Mass.) 

The  Battle  of  Concord  and  Lexington. 

At  midnight,  April  18,  1775,  General  Gage  sent  800  grenadiers  and  light  infantry 


^> 


T  K 


KNVrUONS  OK  BOSTON. 


JluuU  C. 


29 


to  iloHtroy  tlio  iiiilitiiry  Htoros  rolloctc*!  hy  the  Ainorli'ans  ftt  Coiuoril.     "  At  first 

(Ik*  w1i<i|(  iDimtry  n|i|it'!UL'<l  lmiit'<l  in  a  Ki-ncnil  slofp till  tlio  tle«!|»  tones 

ol'ii  (listaut  (hiircli-lH'll  came  swt't'pinK  ilown  tli*-  valley  in  wlii<'':   kiK^  luarclied, 

riiiL^in;^' jtcal  on  jM-al,  in  tlu;  (inii'k,  s|>irlt-HtiiTiii|^' sniinds  of  an  alarm ]l«>ll 

Ix'^aii  to  answer  bell  in  every  tlireetion Ilre-i  l)laz(Ml  alun^'  the  lieiu'lit-s,  the 

lie||n\vin({  of  tilt!  eoiichs  ami  horns  min;^'leil  with  the  rattling'  of  the  muskets  and 
tlie  various  toiiosof  the  hells  "  (Cooi'ku),  ami  when  the  troops  deployed  on  Lexing- 
ton (Jreen,  at  dawn,  1<K)  militiamen  eontnuited  them.  "  Dispei-se,  ye  rebeU, 
tlirow  down  your  arms,  and  dispei-se  !  "  eried  the  Hritisli  eommaiuler,  I'iteairn.  A 
volley  fi'om  the  li;,dit  iufantiy  broke  the  line  wliieh  refused  to  obey  l'it<'airn's  or- 
der, and  under  the  smoke  of  the  llrst  shots  of  tiie  War  of  Independenee  eijj;ht 
Americans  lay  dead  on  the  K^'eii.  Now  ]»y  a  raj)iil  march  the  invaders  oceu]iied 
Concord,  <1  M.  distant,  and  dtsstroyed  such  of  the  military  stores  as  hatl  not 
bicn  removed.  Meanwhile,  loo  minute-men  hail  ^'atherecl  near  the  north  bridj^e, 
1  M.  from  the  Common,  and  soon  they  attacked  and  drove  away  :<  companies 
r  light  infantry  detailed  to  ^mir^'  't.  "pon  which  tin;  retreat  to  Hoston  WM 
ordered.  All  military  order  anion;,'  the  provincials  was  at  an  end  ;  minute-men 
were  collecting  froni  all  jioints  ;  from  every  house,  barn,  and  stone-wall  gnnn 
were  tired  with  sure  aim  ;  and  the  red  nniforms  of  dead  and  woumled  regulars 
strewed  tin;  long  jo.id.  ^  M.  E.  of  Lexington  church,  tlio  remnant  of  the  de- 
tachment was  reinl'orc(^d  by  Lord  Percy,  with  :i  reginu^nts,  2  divisions  of  marines, 
ami  a  battery.  Tho  jtitile.s.s  i>rovincials  worried  them  until  they  reaehe<l  Prospect 
Ildl,  ill  Cambridge,  where  7<H)  men  of  Essex,  with  the  militia  of  Dorchester  and 
lloxbury,  stoippcd,  and  held  the  tlower  of  the  Hritisli  army  until  Percy's  artil- 
lery drove  them  from  the  tleld,  and  the  noble  Northumbrian  led  his  shattered 
rolumns  on  Jiunker  Hill,  under  protection  of  the  fleet.  On  this  nienioruble  day, 
tiu!  royal  forces  lost  0.'<  killed,  ISO  wtmnded,  and  28  prisoners  ;  while  the  Americans 
lust  j'J  killed,  'M  wounded,  and  5  missing. 


Ca!nbrid--e. 

W.  of  Boston  (lior.se-car.s  from  Bo^\'loi^l  Stj.)  is  the  ancient  academic 
city  of  Caniliridge,  on  tlie  Chailes  Iliver.  About  3.^  M.  from  Boston  are 
tJie  spacious  grounds  and  buildings  of  Harvard  University. 

Cambridge  was  settled  shortly  after  Boston,  imder  the  name  of  Newtown.  In 
KWO,  the  legislature  of  Mas.sachusett.s  (then,  and  occasionally  now,  called  the 
(ieneral  Coui-t)  voted  £400  for  the  establishment  of  a  school  liere.  In  KWS  John 
Harvard,  the  young  pastor  of  Charlestown  (from  Emanuel  College,  in  Old  Cam- 
liridge,),  died,  leaving  to  the  young  school  his  library  and  about  £800  in  money. 
Then  the  General  Court  advanced  the  school  into  a  college,  and  named  it  Harvard, 
changing  also  the  name  Newtown  into  Cambridge,  in  memory  of  the  old  univer- 
Hity  town  where,  and  especially  at  Emanuel  College,  so  many  of  the  founders  of 
the  new  State  had  studied.  In  1G40  Charlestown  Ferry  was  made  an  appanage 
t)f  the  College  ;  in  1G42  its  llrst  class  graduated  ;  and  in  l<i50  the  "  President  and 
Fellows  of  Harvard  College  "  were  incoi-jiorated.  Endowments  and  gifts  now 
flowed  in  from  the  province  and  its  citizens,  and  the  young  college  becune  the 
jiride  of  New  England.  In  KiOO,  of  121  clergj'uien  in  the  eleven  counties  nearest 
to  Cambridge,  104  were  graduates  of  Hai-vard.  Many  of  the  political  leaders  of 
the  War  of  Independence  were  educated  here, — Samuel  Adams  (class  of  1740), 
James  Otis  (1743),  Artenias  Ward,  first  commander  of  the  army  (1748),  John  Han- 
cock (1754),  Joseph  Warren  (1759).  In  May,  170i>,  on  the  occupation  of  Boston 
bv  royal  troops,  the  legislature  refused  to  sit  "  with  British  cannon  pointing  at 
tfieir  doors,"  so  they  adjourned  to  the  college  buildings.  In  1775  the  students 
were  sent  home,  and  the  classic  halls  were  turned  into  barracks  for  the  Continen- 
tal soldiers.  The  library  and  apparatus  were  sent  to  Andover  and  Concord.  The 
headquarters  of  the  American  army  of  investment  was  near  the  College,  and  the 
army  numbered  16,000  men  in  June,  1775.  Of  these,  11,500  were  fVoni  Alassachu- 
setts,  2,300  from  C',':vuC"ticut,  1,200  froni  New  Hampshire,  and  1,000  from  Rhode 
Island.  The  left  wing,  under  Ward,  consisting  of  15  Massachusetts  regiments  and 
Gridley's  artillery,  lay  at  Cambridge.  Later,  Knox  brought  55  cannon  from  the 
Lake  Forts,  and  the  New  York  volunteers  and  Morgan's  Virginia  riflemen  joined 


30       Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


U' 


il 

V. 


lii', 


J  '' 


the  camp.  The  10,000  royal  troops  in  Boston  were  environed  by  20  miles  of  can- 
toiiments,  stretfhiiig  from  the  Mystic  River  to  Roxbury.  Tlionias.  with  4,000 
Massacliusetts  troojis,  and  4  companies  of  artillery,  held  the  Roxbury  lines  ;  the 
Rhode  Island  men  were  at  Janiai(;a  Pliin  with  Sjiencer's  Connecticut  rej-'iment. 
Tlie  New  IJiiinpshini  brigade  was  at  Mcidford,  and  Putnam,  with  a  Connecticut 
brigadi!,  held  Charlestown  Nccl\  and  }>icivetto(i  Bunlier  Hill.  The  siege  was 
hardly  over,  and  the  College  in  order  once  mori;,  when  tin  grer.t  capt've  army  oJ 
iJui'goyne  was  led  to  Cambridge  (Nov.  10,  1777).  The  government  ordered  the 
college  to  l)e  vaciated,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  British  and  Hessian  oliicei-s. 
Hut  tlie  ■'vllcgiate  authorities,  feeling  that  enough  had  already  been  sacrificed  by 
llic'i'i  in  the  i;ause  of  freedom,  sent  in  such  a  spirited  protest  that  the  order  was 
reconsid'3Vcd,  and  the  i)risoner!;  encamjied  on  Winter  and  Vrospect  Hills  until 
1779,  when  they  were  sent  to  Charlottesville,  Virginia. 

In  1639  the  first  Nov/  England  printing-press  was  set  up  here,  and  for  its 
first  works  printed  tlie  "Freeman's  Oath,"  "The  New  England  Alma- 
nac," and  +,he  "Bay  Psalm  Book."  At  presei^t  the  vast  University  and 
Riverside  Presses  turn  out  hundreds  of  thousands  of  volumes  yeai'ly. 

Margaret  Fuller,  Countess  D'Ossoli,  was  l)om  at  Can  bridge,  1810.  A  fine 
linguist  and  conversationalist,  she  became  an  enthusiastic  tianscendentalist,  and, 
after  writing  several  oooks,  and  sjjending  some  time  in  Europe,  she  married  Count 
d'Ossoii,  but  was  wrecked  and  h)st  on  tlio  New  Jersey  coast,  returning,  in  1850. 

Oliver  Wendell  Hobius  was  born  at  Cambridge,  ISOI).  A  skilful  jthysician,  lec- 
turer, and  mi(;rosc(>pist,  he  has  been  Professor  of  Anatomy  and  Physiology  in 
Harvard  University  sinci;  1847,  and  has  foimd  time  to  write  many  pleasant  essays 
and  humorous  i)oems,  besides  two  or  three  novels  and  numerous  metlical  lectures 
and  dissertation.5. 

James  Russell  Lowell  was  born  at  Cambriv'.ge,  in  1S19.  After  ^v'riting  several 
volumes  of  poetry,  and  spending  some  years  in  Europe,  he  returned,  and  succeeded 
Mr.  Loi  ,, fellow  as  Professor  of  Modern  Languages,  &c.,  in  Harv.ird  University. 
He  has  published  "The  Biglow  Pai)ers  "  (two  series), — a  jujlitical  satire  in  the 
New  England  vernacular  ;  "  The  Cathetlnil,"  and  "  Under  the  Willows,"  his  later 
poems  ;  and  several  volumes  of  prose. 

F.  H.  Hedge,  the  Unitarian  theologian.  Alfred  Lee,  Bishop  of  Delaware,  and 
Rear-Admiral  Charles  H.  Poor,  were  born  in  Cambridge. 

"  Harvard  College  was  founded  at  Cambridge  only  ninety  years  later  than  the 
greatest  and  wealtluest  college  of  our  Cambridge  in  Old  England.  Puritan  Har- 
vard is  the  sister  rather  than  the  daughter  of  our  own  Puritiin  Emanuel.  Harvard 
himself,  and  Dunster,  the  first  President  of  Harvard,  were  among  the  earliest  of 
the  scholars  of  Emanuel.  .  .  .  Our  English  universities  have  not  about  them  the 
classic  repose,  the  air  of  study,  which  belongs  to  Cambridge,  Massachusetts  ;  our 
Cambridge  comes  nearest  to  her  daughter  town,  but  even  the  English  Cambridge 
has  a  breathing  street  or  two,  and  a  weekly  market-day,  while  Cambridge  in  New 
England  is  one  great  academic  grove,  buried  in  a  philosophic  calm,  which  our 
universities  cannot  rival  as  long  as  men  lesort  to  them  for  other  pul-poses  than 
work."  —  Sir  Charles  Dilke. 

Among  the  most  distinguished  of  the  New-England-born  alumni  of  Harvard 
may  be  named.  Increase  Mather  (class  of  1656),  Cotton  Mather  (1C78),  John  Adams, 
second  President  of  the  United  States  (1755),  John  Quincy  Adams,  his  son,  sixth 
Piesident  of  the  United  States  (1787),  Fisher  Ames  (1774),  W.  E.  Channing  (1798), 
Edward  Everett  (1811),  W.  H.  Prescott(1811),  Jared  Sparks  and  J.  G.  Palfrey  (1815), 
Caleb  Cushing  and  George  Bancroft  (1817),  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  (1821),  C.  F. 
Adams  (1825),  O.  W.  Ib)lmes  (1829),  Charles  Sunnier  (1830),  Wendell  Phillips  and 
J.  L.  Motley  (1831),  H.  W.  Bellows  (1832),  R.  H.  Dana,  Jr.,  and  H.  D.  Thoreau 
(1837),  J.  R.  Lowell  (1838),  E.  E.  Hale  (1839). 

The  buildings  of  the  University  are  named  generally  in  honor  ot  its 
benefactors.  The  small  brick  building  on  the  corner  near  the  horse-car 
station  contains  the  Law  Library  (13,000  volumes)  embracing  the  stand- 
ard works  on  this  subject  by  American,  English,  French,  and  German 


i 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.       31 


i 


writors.  The  law-hall  and  the  professorship  were  founded  by  Nathan 
Dani3,  an  eminent  Essex  County  jurist.  Tlio  'arge  and  ornate  eilifice  next 
to  Dane  Hall  is  known  as  Matthews  Hall.  Doyond  this,  and  at  right 
ang^ics  with  it,  is  Massachusetts  Hall,  an  ancient  building  wliicli  has  been 
changed  into  two  large  loonis,  the  lower  of  which  is  occupied  as  a  read- 
ing-room, and  is  surrounded  by  60  to  70  portiaits  of  notable  New  Eng- 
landers  of  the  last  century,  among  whicli  are  Samuel  Dexter,  Frothinq- 
ham ;  John  Quiney  Adams,  Fisher  Ames,  Stuart ;  Michael  Boylston, 
Thomas  Boylston,  President  Holyoke,  and  John  Adams,  Copley. 

John  Singleton  Copley,  the  best  of  American  portrait-pr.inters,  was  bom  at 
Boston,  17;J7,  studieil  at  Roino,  resided  at  Loudciii  177">-lSi;5.  His  historical 
paintings,  of  which  "The  Death  of  tlie  Earl  of  Chatham"  was  the  most  famous, 
maile  him  a  Royal  Academician  in  17S3.     His  sou  was  made  Lord  Lyndhurst. 

It  is  singidar  that  none  of  Washington  Allston's  pictures  are  here.  This  artist, 
ivho  was  called  "the  American  Titian,"  and  was  famous  for  richly  colored  pictures 
on  religious  subjects,  after  sjiendin;^  15  years  in  Europe,  established  his  studio 
in  Cambridge  in  1S25,  and  here  remained  until  his  death  in  lS-13.  He  was  a  South 
Carolinian. 

Beyond  Massachusetts  Hall  is  Harvard  Hall,  with  its  sober  ornaments 
and  belfry,  and  then  Hollis  and  Stoughton  Halls,  between  which,  and 
nearer  the  street  is  the  quaint  little  edifice  (said  to  have  been  built  by 
Lady  Holden's  boimty)  which  was  long  used  as  a  chapel,  and  was  built 
early  in  the  18th  century.  Across  the  upper  end  of  the  quadrangle 
stretches  the  plain  old  Holworthy  Hall,  back  of  which  is  the  Lawrence 
Scientific  School.  Turning  now  on  the  otlier  side,  the  first  building  is 
the  new,  lofty,  and  ornate  Thayer  Hall,  behind  which  is  the  romanesciuo 
Appleton  Chapel,  Beyond  Thayer  is  the  simple  and  substantial  Uni- 
versity Hall,  built  of  granite,  and  next  comes  the  modern  and  Mansard- 
roofed  Weld  Hall.  University  Hall  is  the  seat  of  the  Univeisity  gov- 
eniment,  which  consists  of  the  President  aud  six  Fellows,  with  a  second 
branch  (Board  of  Overseers)  elected  by  the  alumni.  Tlie  system  of 
elective  studies  and  of  special  scries  of  lectures  is  superseding  the  old 
rigid  course  and  text-book  plan,  and  Harvard  is  accepting  the  style,  as 
well  as  gaining  tlie  power,  of  the  German  universities.  Tliere  are  about 
1,200  men  in  the  various  departments  of  study,  with  45  professors  and 
many  tutors,  &c.  Four  years'  study  procures  the  degree  of  B.  A. ;  three 
years  covers  the  courses  in  the  Divinity  and  Medical  Schools,  and  two 
years  in  the  Law  School.  Beyond  Weld  Hall  the  fourth  side  of  the  quad- 
rangle is  occupied  by  the  noble  Boylston  Hall  (of  granite,  with  several 
collections  inside),  and  the  modern  Gray  Hall.  Opposite  the  wooden 
Wadsworth  Hall  is  the  Holyoke  House  (pertaining  to  the  college)  and 
nearly  opposite  Massachusetts  Hall  is  the  First  Churcli,  with  its  venerable 
graveyard.  Gore  Hall,  beyond  the  quadrangle,  contains  the  Unisersity 
Library.  It  is  a  neat  building  of  Quiney  granite,  in  the  form  of  a  Latin 
Cross,  and  in  the  14th-century  Gothic  style,  said  also  to  be  a  sober  copy 
of  King's  College  Chapel,  at  Old  Cambridge. 


32       lioute  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


11 


I    . 


■  > 


,k    • 


IM 


if 


Inside  there  are  10  ooluiuns  on  each  side  of  a  navo  112  ft.  hnv^,  with  a  <,n-oinod 
roof  ;iy  ft.  hi^di.  Alxnit  l.'JO.OOO  volumes  are  kept  in  this  hall,  besides  which  the 
I  liivcrsity  has  about  70,00.)  vohinies  in  8  other  lil)raries.  In  glass  cases,  tlirough- 
oiit  the  hall,  are  kept  many  literary  curiositiiis  :  a  MS.  Ovid  of  the  14th  century  ; 
letters  of  Washington  ;  Aristot' •,  in  black-hdter  Latin  MS.  ;  ancient  Greek  MSS. 
of  nipi)ocrates,  (Jregoiy  Na/  izcn,  &c.,  with  Pivangelisterios,  Psalters,  &c.  ;  old 
Hebrew  MS.  of  Kstiicr  (in  r<  ) ;  the  Gospels  in  Latin,  8th  century  (oldest  MS.  in 
America) ;  illuminated  Latin  missals  ;  MS.  Koran  ;  Sanscrit  and  Siamese  books 
in  leaves  ;  y  bcantiful  Persian  MSS.  on  silk  paper ;  book  printed  in  Mexico  City, 
ITjOO  ;  Rale's  Dictionary  of  the  Al)enaki  language,  in  Iris  own  writing ;  Eliot's 
Indian  IJible  ;  Bay  Psalm-Book  (1640),  lirst  book  i)rinted  in  America,  north  of 
Mexico  ;  medals,  relics,  autographs,  &c.  Busts  of  distinguished  lueu  surround 
the  hall. 

Nearly  in  line  with  Gore  Hall  is  Appleton  Chapel,  recently  injured  by 
fire.  The  most  con.spicuous  object  about  the  stjuare  is  the  immense  tower 
of  the  *  Memorial  Hall,  a  stately  edifice  now  building,  whose  simple 
and  massive  architecture  contrasts  strongly  with  the  Renaissance  style 
of  the  other  new  buildings.  A  beautiful  little  cloister,  at  one  end  of  the 
Memorial  Hall,  seems  like  a  token  from  Old  Cambridge.  AVithin  this 
noble  building  are  to  be  held  the  Coniniencement  exei'cises  and  alumni 
dinners.  The  Hall  is  being  ervscted  by  the  alumni  as  a  memorial  to  those 
of  their  number  who  fell  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  Near  by,  on  a 
so-called  Delta,  is  the  gynniasium,  an  octagonal  structure,  while  the 
i^awrence  Scientific  School  is  opi)osite  Hohvorthy  Hall.  Beyond  Memo- 
lial  Hall  are  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  Zoological  and  other  museums, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Divinity  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  Unitarian  Theological 
Siihool  and  Library.  The  E]nscopal  Divinity  Scliool  is  near  tlie  beautiful 
little  church  of  St.  John.  The  Observatory  and  Botanical  Gardens  are 
out  on  Garden  St.,  beyond  the  State  Arsenal.  In  front  of  the  colleges, 
on  the  Green,  is  a  monument,  erected  by  the  City,  in  memory  of  339 
officers  and  men  of  Cambridge  wlio  died  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  Far- 
tlter  on  is  tlie  new  and  elegant  Shepard  Memorial  Church,  erected  by  the 
Congregational ists  in  honor  of  Thomas  Shepard,  an  Emanuel  College  di- 
vine, who  Wi's  pastor  at  Cambridge  from  1035  to  1649,  and  was  one  of  the 
founders  and  patrons  of  the  college.  "  Its  location  at  Cambridge  was 
due  to  him."  In  front  of  the  church  is  the  Washington  Elm,  probably 
300  years  old.  Near  it  the  old  Indian  councils  took  place,  and,  at  a  later 
day,  the  town-meetings,  and  under  its  foliage,  July  3,  1775,  Washington 
assumed  command  of  the  armies  of  America.  ,         .      » 

A  large,  old-style  house,  back  from  the  street,  and  nearly  opposite  Gore  Hall,  is 
called  the  "Bishop's  Palace."  It  was  built  in  1761-05  by  East  Apthorp,  an 
Anglican  Bostonian,  educated  at  Old  Cambridge,  who  was  sent  here  as  a  mission- 
ary, and  hoped  to  be  appointed  Bishop  of  New  England.  But  the  hostility  of  the 
Puritan  divines  and  people  was  so  marked,  that  he  returned  to  Ejigbiia,  and  was 
given  a  stall  in  St.  Paul's.  In  1777,  Burgoyne  occupied  the  house  as  headquarters 
of  the  captive  Anglo-Hessian  army.  Near  Brattle  St.  is  the  house  where 
Baron  Riedesel,  commander  of  the  division  of  Brunswiekers,  was  quartered.  The 
Baroness,  with  a  diamond,  cut  her  autograph  here  on  a  wind(nv-pane,  which  is 
still  preserved.    Near  Brattle  St.,  ou  the  right,  is  a  stately  old  colonial  mansion. 


i 


1 


See  page  20. 


3' 


r 


i> 


THE  PRINCIPAL  PORTIONS  OF  THE  CEMETERY. 


i 


1.  Entrance. 

2.  Chapel. 

3.  Spruce  Avenue. 

4.  Public  Lot. 

5.  Laurel  Hill. 

6.  Walnut  Avenue. 

7.  Mountain  Avenue. 

8.  Mount  Auburn  Tower. 

9.  Dell  Path. 

10.  Pine  Hill. 

11.  Central  Square.  ' 

12.  Cedar  Hill. 

13.  Harvard  Hill. 


14.  Juniper  Hill. 

15.  Temple  Hill. 

16.  Rosemary  Path. 

17.  Jasmine  Path. 

18.  Chestnut  Avenue. 

19.  Poplar  Avenue. 

20.  Auburn  Lake. 

21.  Lime  Avenue. 

22.  Larch  Avenue. 

23.  Halcyon  Lake. 

24.  Forest  Pond. 

25.  Central  Avenue. 

26.  Road  to  Fresh  Poud. 


ENVIRONS  OV  BOSTON. 


Jloute  2. 


33 


n 


26 


So 


I 


^oud. 


above  two  ten-aces,  surrounded  by  broad  lawns  and  tine  elms.  Built  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  ceutuiy,  the  house  was  deserted  by  its  Loyalist  owner  at  the 
outbreak  of  1775,  and  then  occupied  by  Washington  as  headquartera.  Here, 
through  the  long  winter  of  the  siege,  Lady  Washincfton  often  held  receptions. 
This  noble  estate  is  now  owned  by  the  jtoet  Longfellow. 

Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow,  born  in  Portland,  1807  (Bowdoin  College,  1825), 
spent  four  years  (1826  -  30)  in  Europe,  ond  then  was  Professor  of  Modem  Languages 
at  Harvard  University  (1835-54).  iJesides  several  prose  romances  and  many 
short  poems  of  great  power,  he  has  publisheil  "  Evangeline  "  (1847.)  "  The  Golden 
Legend"  (1851),  "  Hiawatha"  (185.5),  a  translation  of  Dante's  "  DivinaCommedia," 
3  vols.  (18G7-70),  "The  Divine  Tragedy"  (1871),  and  "Tales  of  a  Wayside  Inn," 
lii'st  (1863)  and  second  series.  Mr.  Longfellow  is  i)erhaps  the  most  popular  of 
American  poets,  and  is  distinguished  as  a  faithful  translator,  an  original  and  j)ro- 
fouiully  perceptive  poet,  and  au  admirer  of  the  picturesque  features  in  medi&'val 
Eurojiean  history. 

Mount  Auburn. 

(Horse-cars  from  Harvard  Square  in  ^  M..  4  M,  distant  from  Boston.) 
A  large  tract  of  forest-covered  and  romantic  hills  on  the  banks  of  the 
Charles  had  long  formed  a  favorite  ramble  for  the  students  of  Harvard, 
until,  in  1831,  it  was  purcliased  by  tlie  Horticultural  Society,  and  a  portion 
of  it  consecrated  for  a  cemetery,  with  imposing  ceremonies.  This  was 
the  pioneer  of  the  large  rural  cemeteries  of  America,  and  is  but  a  few  years 
younger  than  Pere  la  Chaise,  at  Paris.  The  whole  tract  of  land  was  soon 
bought  in  from  tlie  Horticultural  Society,  and  large  additions  have  since 
been  made,  until  now  it  covers  125  acres.  The  name  "Sweet  Auburn," 
which  the  Harvard  men  had  bestowed  upon  it,  was  changed  to  Mount 
Auburn.  "  This  tract  is  beautifully  undulating  in  its  surface,  containing 
a  number  of  bold  eminences,  steep  acclivities,  and  deep,  shadowy  valleys," 
and  is  laid  out  with  broad,  curving  avenues  intersected  by  foot-paths. 
The  emblematic  iron  fence  which  bounds  the  front  is  provided  with  a  mas- 
sive granite  entrance-gate  of  Egyptian  arcliitecture,  (50  ft,  long  and  25  ft. 
high,  on  whose  outside  is  carved,  "  Then  shall  the  dust  return  to  the  earth 
as  it  was,  and  the  spirit  shall  return  to  God  who  gave  it."  From  the 
gate  Central  Ave.  runs  to  Pine  Hill,  which  overhangs  Consecration  Dell. 
The  chapel,  not  far  from  the  gate,  on  a  hill  to  the  r.,  is  a  handsome 
Gothic  edifice,  abounding  in  pinnacles,  and  furnished  with  stained  glass 
windows  from  Edinburgh.  Inside  the  chapel  are  four  noble  *  statues  : 
Judge  Story,  by  W.  W.  Story  ;  John  Winthrop,  the  first  colonial  gover- 
nor, by  R  S.  Greenowfh  ;  James  Otis,  the  leader  of  the  first  aggressions 
against  British  misrule,  by  Crawford;  and  John  Adams,  representing 
tlie  revolutionary  and  subsequent  constitutional  era,  by  Randolph  Rogers. 
On  Central  Ave.  is  a  fine  statue  of  Hosea  Ballou,  an  eminent  Univer- 
salist  divine,  of  Boston,  not  far  from  the  statue  (in  a  sitting  posture)  of 
Dr.  Bowditch,  the  mathematician  and  nautical  writer.  Fronting  the 
chapel  is  a  majestic  *  memorial  work  (by  Milnwre)  representing  a  colos- 
sal lion  couchant  with  a  calm  and  heroic  female  head.  The  design  is 
taken  from  a  work  executed  in  the  highest  perfection  of  Egyptian  art, 
2*  c 


34       Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OK  BOSTON. 


and  is  a  fine  personification  of  tl»e  ancient  idea  of  the  myotic  "  one  who 
outlooks  stars  and  dreanus  o'er  graves."  Hannali  Adams,  Uie  historian  of 
the  Jews,  was  tlie  first  person  buried  in  the  cemetery,  and  her  humble 
monument  is  still  pointed  out.  Near  the  end  of  Central  Ave.  is  the 
monument  to  John  Murray,  the  founder  of  Universalism  in  America. 
Spurzheim  is  buried  near  the  Bowditch  monument.  Near  the  Ballou 
statue  on  Central  Ave.  is  the  monument  erected  to  W.  F.  Harnden, 
founder  of  the  express  business,  by  tiie  express-companies  of  the  United 
States.  Under  a  canojty  of  granite  is  a  large  stone  safe  with  bas-reliefs, 
supported  on  bronze  claws,  alongside  of  which  a  marble  watch-dog  lies. 
On  Mount  Auburn,  the  highest  i)oint  of  the  cemetery,  stands  a  massive 
and  graceful  granite  tower,  fron?  whose  top  an  extensive  *  view  is  enjoyed. 
Tlie  rich  valley  of  the  Cliarles  is  in  full  sight,  from  the  villa-covered  heights 
of  Watertown  to  the  widenings  whicli  are  lined  by  the  palaces  on  the 
Back  Bay  at  Boston.  The  rural  roads  of  Brookline  are  in  the  S.,  and 
over  and  beyond  them  rise  the  high  hills  of  Milton.  In  tlie  E.  is  Cam- 
bridge and  the  ancient  walls  of  Harvard  University,  while  a  , succession 
of  bright  villages  stud  t'le  country  to  the  N.  and  W. 

For  the  rest,  the  tranquil  and  shaded  walks  of  the  cemetery  are  lined 
with  thousands  of  monuments,  of  every  form  and  style,  from  simple  tab- 
lets to  costly  and  beautiful  statues.  Pretty  lakelets  diversify  the  surface 
of  the  dells,  and  platoons  of  obelisks  rise  along  the  hills.  The  gateway, 
the  chapel,  sphinx,  and  tower,  are  the  ivrincipal  objects  to  be  seen. 
Hours  may  be  spent  in  pleasant  rambling  through  the  other  avenixes, 
passing  the  graves  of  scores  of  local  celebrities  and  magnates  of  Massa- 
chusetts. If  the  visitor  wishes  to  know  how  to  do  Moiint  Auburn  minute- 
ly, "  Dearborn's  Guide  "may  be  bought  at  the  gate. 

N.  of  Mount  Auburn  about  f  M.,  is  Fresh  Pond,  a  pretty  sheet  of  blue 
water,  winding  under  the  shadow  of  wooded  hills,  with  villages  on  its 
banks.  The  Fresh  Pond  Hotel  is  favorably  situated  on  its  shore.  2  to 
3  M.  N.  is  Spy  Pond  (pleasant  hotel),  the  ice  from  whose  clear  am  spark- 
ling waters  is  much  used  in  Boston  during  the  summer  heats.  S.  W. 
of  Mount  Auburn,  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles,  is  the  United  States  Arse- 
nal, covering  40  acres,  where  great  amounts  of  munitions  of  war  are  stored. 
About  1  M.  beyond,  also  on  the  river,  is  the  village  of  Watertown,  8  M. 
from  Boston,  on  the  Fitchburg  Railroad.  Early  in  the  17th  century  a 
nomadic  church  from  this  place  founded  Wethersfield,  Conn.  In  1643 
Massachusetts  sent  four  Puritan  missionaries  to  convert  Anglican  Vir- 
ginia. The  Cavaliers  drove  them  oft",  and  Knowles,  the  Watertown  pas- 
tor, went  to  England,  and  ])reached  in  Bristol  Cathedral  several  years. 
John  Sherman,  pastor  here  1(347-85,  bears  on  his  tombstone, 


"  In  Sherman's  lowlj'  grove  ore  lain 
The  heart  of  Paul,  and  Euclid's  bruin. 


ENVIllONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Haute  2. 


35 


k 


Harriet  G.  Hosmer,  tl'c  foremost  of  female  sciili)t()r8,  waa  hnvn  at  Watertown 
in  1830.  After  long  anatomical  studies,  she  went  t*  Rome  in  I8a'J,  and  has  since 
lived  there.  Most  of  her  works  are  retained  in  Italy  and  En^dand.  Ifer  most  re- 
markable i)ie('es  are  "  ZenoViia  in  Chains,"  "The  Sleeiting  Faun,"  "i'uek,"  ami 
"  Beatrice  Cenci." 

S.  of  Watertown  is  the  town  of  Newton,  with  several  villages,  in- 
habited mostly  by  men  doing  busines.s  in  Boston.  Brighton  (Cattle-Fair 
Hotel,  Bnr/hton  Hotel,  Riverside,  kc),  E,  of  Newton,  ha.s  the  largest 
cattle-market  in  New  England,  The  day  of  market  is  Wednesday,  when 
Brighton  presents  a  lively  sight. 

S.  E.  of  Brighton  is  tlie  town  of  Brookline,  famous  for  the  suburban 
residences  of  Boston  merchants.  Near  the  station  of  the  New  York  and 
New  England  Railroad  is  the  principal  village,  with  the  ornate  and  attrac- 
tive stone  town-house,  near  which  is  a  neat  public-library  building.  Within 
this  town  is  Brookline  Reservoir,  witli  a  capacity  of  120,000,000  gallons  of 
water.  Here  terminates  tlie  long  and  sinuous  brick  culvert,  running  from 
Lake  Cochituate,  in  Natick,  wliich  is  here  supplemented  by  iron  mains, 
which  carry  the  water  into  Boston.  1  M.  distant  is  the  great  Chest- 
nut Hill  Reservoir  (5  M,  from  Boston  City  Hall),  with  a  capacity  of 
800,000,000  gallons.  The  most  popular  drive  about  Boston  is  that  to 
and  around  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir.  Jamaica  Pond,  near  the  village 
of  Jamaica  Plain,  and  K  of  Brookline,  gave  the  first  water-supply  to 
Boston.  From  1795  to  1840  it  was  carried  through  the  city  in  hollow 
pine  logs.  In  1851  this  was  stopped,  and  now  villas  and  immense  ice- 
houses line  the  shores.  Tn  Jamaica  Plain  (where  encamped  the  Rhode 
Island  forces,  the  best  equipped  and  disciplined  in  the  army,  in  1775  -70), 
is  a  fine  monument  to  the  soldiers  of  West  Roxbury  who  were  killed  in 
the  War  for  the  Union.  §  M.  from  this  village  is  the  large  cemetery 
of  Forest  Hills.  (Horse-cars  to  and  from  Boston,  also  Providence 
Railroad.)  It  is  entered  by  a  large  and  elegant  turreted  Gothic  gate- 
way of  stone,  bearing  the  inscriptions,  "  I  am  the  Resurrection  and  the 
Life,"  and,  "  He  that  keepeth  thee  will  not  slumber."  Near  the  gateway 
to  the  1.  is  the  fmest  receiving-tomb  in  New  England,  with  a  Gothic 
})ortico  of  granite,  of  imposing  size  and  form.  On  Mount  Warren  Gen. 
.Joseph  Warren  is  buried  ;  on  Mount  Dearborn,  Gen.  U,  A.  S.  Dearborn, 
This  cemetery  is  larger  and  plainer  than  Mount  Auburn,  and  is  mainly 
notable  for  its  air  of  rustic  naturalness.  Consecration  Hill  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  hills  of  Milton  and  the  fair  Lake  Hibiscus.  In  the  S, 
part  is  a  monument  "  Erected  by  the  City  of  Roxbury  in  honor  of  her 
soldiers  who  died  for  their  country  in  the  Rebellion  of  1861  to  '65."  A 
bronze  soldier,  of  heroic  size,  stands  at  ease  on  a  granite  pedestal,  and  on  the 
inner  granite  tablets  of  the  wall,  about  the  lot,  are  the  names  of  many  sol- 
diers in  letters  of  gold,  1  M.  from  Forest  Hills,  and  a  like  distance 
from  IMattapan,  on  the  New  York  &  New  England  Railroad,  is  the  cemetery 


3G      Jioute  3. 


BOSTON  TO  MEW  YOllK. 


of  Mount  Hope.  This  is  in  Dorchester,  an  ancient  town  wliich  was  united 
Willi  Boston  in  1870.  Over  its  extensive  area  (wliicli  is  bounded  on  one 
side  by  tlie  Bay)  are  scattere<l  several  villages  and  hundreds  of  country 
residences.  The  natural  scenery  is  picturesque,  and  is  diversified  by  hills 
and  forests.  A^  Moeting-IIouso  Hill  is  the  old  chiuch,  with  u  .".oldier's 
monument  on  the  green  before  it.  At  Grove  Hall  (horse-cars  from  the  Tre- 
mont  House  or  Temple  PL),  amid  ami)le  grounds,  are  the  handsome 
buildings  of  the  Consumi)tives'  Home,  an  institution  founded  by  Dr. 
Cullis  in  1862,  to  receive  and  relieve  iiersons  afilicted  with  the  scourge  of 
New  England.  It  is  sui)i)orted  (like  the  Bristol  Or]>hanage),  by  imso- 
licited  donations  in  answer  to  prayer  to  the  Divine  Guardian,  and  the 
invalids  are   "freely  received  in  the  name  of  the  Lord." 

Bozbury  {Norfolk  House,  a  large  and  comfortable  old  hotel,  on  Eliot 
Square).     Horse-cars  from  Park-St.  Church  to  Eliot  S(i.,  &c. 

Roxbury,  an  ancient  city,  almost  coeval  with  Boston,  was  united  with 
that  city  in  1868.  In  1775  the  Rhode  Island  forces  built  here  that  i)ower- 
ful  fort  which  Washington  pronounced  the  best  in  the  siege-lines,  and 
which  seriously  galled  the  Royalists  in  Boston.  Upon  the  hill  occujtied 
by  this  fort  is  now  the  stand-pipe  of  the  water-works,  where  the  Cochi- 
tuate  water  is  forced  up  through  a  boiler-iron  tube  to  a  height  of  240  ft. 
above  tide-marsh  level,  and  hence  supplies  the  highest  floors  in  the  city. 
The  tower  is  a  lofty  and  very  graceful  structure,  with  a  fine  view  from  the 
summit,  wliich,  however,  is  usually  closed.  Eliot  St^.  is  the  central  point 
in  Roxbury,  and  here  is  the  building  of  the  first  (Unitarian)  church,  the 
society  to  which  Eliot  preached  in  the  Puritan  era.  For  the  rest,  the 
hilly  streets  of  Roxbury  are  made  beautiful  by  the  villas  of  the  city 
merchants  and  by  several  i)retty  churches,  of  which  the  venerable  St. 
James'  Church,  with  its  massive  Saxon  tower,  is  most  attractive,      r    -,  , 

Besides  General  Warren,  who  died  on  Bunker  Hill,  there  were  also  born  at  Rox- 
bury Mujor-General  Heath,  of  the  Continental  Army,  and  Joseph  Dudley,  gov- 
ernor of  Massachusetts,  1702-15,  while  Thomas  Dudley,  long  time  governor,  and 
inajor-general  between  1G30-53,  had  his  estates  and  mansion  here. 

John  Eliot,  "the  Ai)ostle  to  the  Indians,"  was  pastor  of  the  church  in  "  Rocks- 
bury"  from  1G32  to  lO'JO.  Firmly  believing  that  the  Indians  were  descended  Ironi 
the  ten  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  he  made  every  effort  for  their  conversion.  Acquiring 
their  language,  he  translated  into  it  the  Bible  (1663),  catechism,  Baxter's  Call,  &c., 
and  preached  frequently  to  those  villages  of  "praying  Indians  which  he  estab- 
lished and  protected  through  the  war  of  1675-76.  Utterly  improvident  in  his 
charities,  he  would  sometimes  give  away  his  whole  salary  on  the  day  of  its  re- 
ceipt, and  it  was  only  by  Mrs.  Eliot's  care  and  economy  that  his  four  sons  were 
educated  at  Harvard,  and  were  ranl<ed  afterwards  '  with  the  best  preachers  of  their 
generation.' "  When  the  old  hero  had  become  helpless,  the  church  continued  his 
salary  several  years,  until  his  death. 


, 


I 
I 


.     "      -  3.   Boston  to  New  York.  

Via  Old  Colony  Railroad  and  Fall  River  steamers  in  10  to  12  hrs.,  leaving  Bos- 
ton at  4.. 30  or  6.30  P.  M.  Fare,  $5.  The  railroad  station  is  on  the  comer  of 
Kneeland  and  South  Sts.  (PI.  36). 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK, 


Routed.       37 


I 


The  train  soon  crosses  Fort  Point  Channel,  and  runs  through  S.  Bos- 
ton and  Dorchester. 

Until  Neponset  (6  M.  out)  is  passed,  the  road  runs  through  the  south- 
ern villages  of  the  Dorchester  district  of  Boston.  The  Neponset  River  is 
crossed,  and  then  comes  {Ixiinoj  {Hancock  House,  $2),  a  large  agricultural 
town,  much  of  whose  land  is  in  the  estates  of  the  illustrious  families  of 
Adams  and  Quincy.  In  the  Adams  Temjjle,  a  j)lain  granite  church  oppo- 
site the  fine  town-hall,  are  monuments  to  the  Adamses,  while  beneath  tho 
church  the  two  Presidents  of  that  name  aro  buried.  A  handsome  granito 
shaft,  with  appropri-ite  symbols,  was  raised  in  1868  in  memory  of  113 
soldiers  of  Quincy  who  died  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  About  \  M.  from 
the  Hancock  Iloufee  is  the  plain  old  mansion  of  the  Adams  family,  tho 
Quincy  House  being  1  M.  beyond.  Squantum  Point  (Old  Sipiantum  House), 
between  Quincy  and  Dorchester  Bays,  was  the  home  of  Chickatabut, 
Sachem  of  Massachusetts,  and  of  S<iuantum,  the  firm  Iriend  of  the  Pil- 
grims, who,  when  dying,  desired  Governor  Bradford  to  pray  for  him  "  that 
he  might  goto  the  Englishman's  God  in  heaven."  Squantum  Point  is  con- 
nected with  Boston  by  steamers  (in  summer),  and  is  famous  for  its  chow- 
ders, reviving  the  memory  of  the  olden  time  when,  for  scores  of  years,  the 
Bostonians met  here  annually  for  a  "Pilgrim  Feast."  Hough's  Neck 
{Great  Hill  House),  not  far  from  Quincy,  projects  into  Boston  Harbor,  bo- 
t\/eeri  Quincy  and  Weymouth  Bays.  W.  of  the  village  are  the  high  hills 
ol'  Qunicy  and  Milton,  whence  is  obtained  that  excellent  sienitic  granite 
which  is  used  for  permanent  works  in  nearly  every  American  city.  This 
range  is  several  miles  long  and,  in  places,  600  ft.  high,  and  is  nearly  a 
solid  mass  of  pure  granite.  The  first  American  railway  was  operated  here 
in  1 826,  when  horses  drew  the  stone  on  cars  over  wide  wooden  tram- ways, 
from  the  quarry  to  the  river  (3  M.).  Each  horse  drew  20  tons  of  granito 
besides  the  car.  ••     ,   . 

In  1844,  100,000  tons  were  quarried  here  by  800  men,  under  20  com- 
panies.    At  present  the  works  are  carried  on  on  a  much  larger  scale. 

John  Adams,  born  Quincy,  1756,  was  a  Ann  opponent  of  the  Stamp  Act,  do- 
fender  of  Captiiin  Preston  and  his  soldiers  in  the  so-called  "  Boston  Massacre  " 
trial,  and  Congressman,  1774-77.  In  1776,  as  leader  of  the  committee  on  tho 
Declaration  of  Independence,  he  fought  the  Declaration  through  Congress  in  a 
three  days'  debate.  In  1778,  1779,  and  1782,  he  visited  Paris  on  a  special  mis- 
sion, and  in  1782  was  chosen  ambassador  to  Holland.  In  1785-88  ho  was  minister 
to  England.  He  was  the  first  Vice-President,  and  in  1796  was  elected  President 
by  the  Federalists,  defeating  Jefferson,  the  Republican  candidate,  and  succeeding 
Washington.  From  1801  to  1826  he  lived  on  Ids  estate  in  Quincy,  and  died  on 
the  same  day  as  Jefferson,  — July  4,  1826,  the  50th  anniversaiy  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence. 

John  Quincy  Adams,  son  of  John  Adams,  born  Quincy,  1767.  He  remained 
in  Europe  most  of  the  time  between  1778  and  1785,  then  graduated  at  Har- 
vard, and  became  a  lawyer  and  publicist.  He  was  successively  minister  to  Hol- 
land, England,  and  Prussia,  1794  - 1801.  A  United  States  senator  1803  -  8  ;  in  1809 
he  became  minister  to  Russia,  and  later  was  appointed  minister  to  England.  Secre- 
tary of  State,  1817-25,  in  the  latter  year  he  was  elected  President  of  the  United  States 


38      Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


(th«  Cth).  From  1831  to  1848  he  was  in  Cojifjrcss,  and  «liefl  st>dtl»mly  in  the 
Capitol  ^1848),  his  la«t  words  beinj^.  "This  is  tiie  last  of  earth  ;  I  am  contrnt." 
Under  his  inliuence  (as  Secretary  of  State  or  President)  great  national  worlds  were 
carried  on  ;  Florida  was  added  to  the  Union  ;  and  the  Soutli  American  repulilics 
were  recognized.  An  opponent  of  the  extension  of  slav(!ry,  anil  a  powerful  advo- 
cate of  tlie  rigiit  of  petition,  his  powers  eontinued  until  the  last,  und  won  for  him 
tlie  title  of  "  tlic  Old  Man  Elorpient." 

Charles  Francis  Adams,  his  son,  was  born  in  Boston  in  1807,  and  long  lived  in 
Europe.  lie  was  one  of  tlie  founders  of  the  present  Uepublican  party,  was  some- 
time a  Con^jrcssman,  and  in  1801  received  the  hereditary  office  of  minister  to 
England,  lie  held  tiiis  i)osition  until  1.H08,  —  an  arduous  duty,  since,  during  this 
time,  the  (nnollicial  but  elllcient)  English  sympathy  with  the  Rebel  Stiites  re- 
cpured  sleepless  vigilance  on  his  part.  In  1872  he  was  one  of  the  (uunmissioners 
to  Geneva  (for  tlie  settlement  of  the  "  Alabama"  trouble),  and  conducted  his  i)art 
of  the  work  with  great  sliill. 

John  Hancock,  born  Quincy,  17'57,  be(!ame  a  wealthy  Boston  merchant,  and 
early  opposed  the  aggressions  of  Parliament,  st)  that  he  and  Samuel  Adams  alone 
were  excepted  from  the  general  pardon  which  General  CJage  offered  to  the 
Americans.  Sometime  i*i'esidcnt  of  the  Provincial  Congress,  in  1775  he  was 
Presiilent  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and  was  the  first  to  sign  the  Declaration 
of  Independence.  Later  he  be<  ime  an  otllcer  in  the  uiilitia,  and  was  governor  of 
Massachusetts  1780-85,  and  17S7-93. 

This  district  was  firs^^  settled  by  Weston's  company  (1622),  and  Wollaston's 
(1G25),  at  a  jdace  called  Merry  Mount)  where  their  conduct  was  so  opposed  to 
the  principles  of  the  Pilgrims  that  Miles  Standish  marched  from  Plymouth  against 
these  jovial  Episcopalians,  and  sent  tlieii-  iliicfs  captive  to  England.  In  1630 
the  Plymouth  forces  made  another  daniagi::'.;  .ittack  on  Merry  Mount.  Thomas 
Morton,  of  this  colony,  who  was  twue  bani  ined  to  England,  and  once  imprisoned 
for  one  year  by  tlie  Plymouth  govcniment,  wrote  the  "  New  English  Canaan,"  iii 
which  he  gives  the  following  account  of  the  aborigines:  "The  Indians  maybe 
rather  accompted  as  living  richly,  wanting  notiiing  that  is  needful ;  and  to  be 
comnicnded  for  leading  a  contented  life,  the  younger  being  ruled  by  the  elder,  and 
the  elder  ruled  by  the  Powahs,  and  the  Powahs  are  ruled  by  the  Devill,  and  then 
you  may  imagine  what  good  rule  is  like  to  be  amongst  them."  This  curiously 
agrees  with  Cotton  Mather's  theoi-y  that  "the  Indians  are  under  the  special  pro- 
tection of  the  Devill." 

Tlic  next  station  is  Braintree  (village  not  near  railroad),  an  ancient 
farming  town.  This  is  the  junction  of  the  South  Shore  Railroad  (see 
Route  4).  At  S.  Braintree,  2  M.  farther  on,  the  Plymouth  Branch  Rail- 
road diverges  to  the  E. 

Stations,  Randolph,  Stoughton,  Poiikapaug  (Briggs'  Hotel),  shoe-man- 
ufacturing towns.  Stations,  N.  Easton,  Boston,  Raynham,  where  the 
Leonard  brotliers  set  up  tlie  first  forgo  in  America,  in  1652. 

TaxLnton  {Citi/ Hotel,  $3  a  day,  on  the  Green)  was  founded  by  Miss 
Elizabeth  Pool,  a  pious  Puritan  lady,  of  Taunton,  in  Somersetshire.  The 
§,ettlement  was  on  the  territory  of  Coliannet,  and  King  Philip  was  friendly 
to  the  Tauntonians  until  midsummer  of  1676,  when  he  attacked  the  place, 
and  was  driven  off  and  followed  sharply  until  he  was  killed.  In  1810 
there  were  but  50  houses  hei'e,  but  the  water-power  of  the  river  soon 
induced  the  location  of  factories,  until  at  the  present  time  it  is  a  large 
manufacturing  city,  with  18,6.30  inhabitants.  Mason's  Locomotive  Works 
cover  10  acres  and  employ  800  men,  and  the  works  of  the  Taunton  Car  Co. 
are  also  extensive.  The  Tack  Companies  make  700  varieties,  from  a  heavy 
boat-nail  down  to  microscopic  tacks  weighing  4,000  to  the  ounce.     In 


' 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  S.       39 


1871, 18,000,000  Itvicks  wen;  nia<le  hero.  The  Taunton  Copper  Co.  covers 
If)  acres  witli  their  l)iii]<lings,  and  works  up  M, 000,000  or  4,000,0(K)  pounds 
of  copper  yearly.  There  arc  also  11  foundries,  and  manufactories  of 
screws,  stove-linings,  and  lead-works,  larj?e  i  Titon-mills,  and  a  famous 
manufactory  of  Britannia  ware.  With  all  thvi,  the  city  is  clean  and  or- 
derly, ami  clusters  around  the  central  square  called  Taunton  Green. 
There  are  11)  churches,  of  which  St.  Mary's  (Catholic)  on  Broadway,  St. 
Thomas  (Episcopal),  and  the  First  Unitarian,  on  Church  Green,  are 
tine  stone  structures.  The  latter  is  a  large,  raml)ling,  Saxon-towered 
chuii'h,  which  looks  like  some  secluded  parish-church  of  Merrie  England 
which  was  built  before  the  Comjuest.  The  City  Hall  fronts  on  Church 
Green,  and  the  Public  Library  is  next  to  thi*  rude  stone  churcli  (Congrega- 
tional) on  Broadway.  The  extensive  buildings  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum are  near  Taunton  Green,  surrounded  l>y  pleasant  grounds.  The 
Green  is  about  l.\  M.  from  the  Old  Colony  Station. 

Stations,  Weir  Jam  t ion,  Weir,  N.  iJightnn,  Dighton.  Near  the  latter 
place,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  the  famous  Digliton  Rock,  —  a  long 
mass  of  granite  with  rude  sculptures  and  inscriptions  upon  it  (copied  and 
published  in  the  Aritiquitates  Americance,  Copenhagen),  which  some  schol- 
ars refer  to  the  Norsciueu  in  the  11th  century,  while  President  Stiles 
speaks  of  "  the  Pluonicians,  who  charged  the  Dighton  Rock,  and  other 
rocks  in  Narragansett  Bay,  with  Punic  inscriptions  which  remain  to  this 
day."  It  is  said  that  uear  this  place  a  skeleton  was  found  (in  1834)  with 
a  brazen  belt  and  breastplate,  which  is  probably  the  same  which  inspired 
Longfellow's  fine  poem,  "The  Skeleton  in  Armor."   Station  S<tinerset,  then 

Fall  River  {City  Hotel,  Mount  Hope  Hotel,  Union  House),  an  ener- 
getic and  glowing  city,  which  enjoys  a  rare  combination  of  great  water- 
power  on  the  marghi  of  navigable  waters .  The  river  rises  in  the  Watuppa 
Ponds  on  the  highlands  2  M.  E.  of  the  city,  and  falls  130  ft.  in  less 
than  half  a  mile.  Along  this  incline  immense  factories  are  drawn  up  like 
platoons  in  a  marching  regiment,  built  across  the  stream  and  resting  on 
the  granitic  banks  on  either  side.  Over  ^  10,000,000  are  invested  in  these 
works,  and  10,000  persons  are  employed  in  them.  The  great  article  of 
luanufacture  is  cotton  cloth,  and  more  spindles  are  here  engaged  upon 
that  work  than  in  any  other  city  in  America.  Most  of  the  mills  are  now 
run  l^y  steam-power.  Large  quarries  of  granite  are  worked  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  city,  and  many  of  its  edifices,  including  come  of  the  factories, 
two  or  three  churches,  and  the  City  Hall,  are  built  of  that  material. 
The  city  is  compactly  built,  and  fronts  on  Mount  Hope  Bay,  across  which 
Mount  Hope  looms  into  view.  On  South  and  North  Main  Sts.  are  the 
principal  churches,  the  City  Hall,  Post  Office,  and  hotels,  and  from  the 
City  Hall  a  group  of  parallel  factories  stretches  westward  and  downward 
to  the  Bay.     Fall  River  was  formerly  divided  by  the  Rhode  Island  line, 


40       Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YCnK." 


I 


but  a  change  of  boundary,  ceding  to  that  State  hiwh  a))out  I'awtucket, 
&c.,  secured  to  MassachuHetts  all  of  Fall  Uiver,  which  in  utill  called  the 
"  Border  City."     Uh  j)o|)ulation  in  1870  wa.s  2(?,768. 

The  eastern  and  western  divisions  of  the  Old  Colony  Railroad  unitvi 
near  Fall  River,  run  down  through  the  town  of  Tiverton,  and  cross  a 
narrow  strait  at  Bristol  Ferry  to  Rhode  Island.  The  track  runs  down  the 
western  shore,  and  v.ndu  at  Newport,  in  ID  M.  from  Fall  River,  ^'he 
Fall  River,  Warren,  and  Providence  Railroad  runs  N.  W.  from  Fall  River 
tf»  I'rovidenco. 

The  palatial  steamers,  leaving  Fall  River  in  the  early  evening,  make 
their  first  stop  at 

Newport. 

Hotels.  —  Oocnn  TTonso,  Atlnntic  IIoiiso,  Pnrry  House,  Aqnidneok  House, 
8;<..'iO  a  day;  ^'M  a  week;  lIiiiUMl  Ht«t(!H,  I'nrU,  Touro.  Tlu"  CUM"  House  and 
CVitt'iKcs  are  near  tlic  F'irst  Hcacli  ;  tlie  foicijL;ii  ministers  and  sonic  European 
visitors  <hv('ll  in  seclusion  at  Perrici's.  Uoanling-liouscsutKl  cottages  are  nunmr- 
U8,  and  frequently  offer  far  more  (juiet  and  restl'ulness  than  the  hotels,  together 
with  less  expense. 

KeaditiK-rooms.  —  At  the  Redwood  Library  ;  at  the  Free  Library,  on 
Thames  Street  ;  also  at  the  Club-House  (private),  corner  Bellevue  Avenue 
and  Church  Street. 

Churches.  —  Baptist,  on  Spring',  Farewell,  and  Clark  Streets  ;  Catholic,  St. 
Mary's,  Spring  St.  ;  CoUKreKatioiialist,  SpriuK  St.  ;  Methodist  Episcopal,  Marl- 
boro St.,  Thames  St.  ;  Hpiscopal,  Trinity,  Church  St.  ;  Zion,  Emmanuel,  All 
Saints  (Dr.  Potter),  Beach  St.  ;  Unitarian,  Mill  St. 

Carriages  an<l  .saddle-horstis  may  be  obtained  at  the  Atlantic  House  stables. 
Downing  St.  L.  I).  Davis,  No.  13  Cluireh  St.,  attends  to  the  rtiutal  of  the  Cliff 
Cottages  and  otliei"s. 

Bathing,  on  First  Beach.  During  the  hours  wiieii  the  white  flag  floats  bath- 
ing m  costunu!  is  obligatory.  Wlule  the  red  flag  is  displayed,  the  beach  is  re- 
served for  gentlemen. 

Stages  run  to  First  Beach  and  other  points  at  regular  liours. 

Steamboats  run  to  Rocky  Point  and  Providence  four  times  daily  (in  summer), 
excursion  tickets,  75c.  ;  to  Wickford  (connecting  with  Shore  Line  R.  R.  for  New 
York),  3  times  daily;  to  Narragan.sett  P'er,  3  times  daily.  The  magnificent 
steamers  of  the  Fall  River  I-ine  to  New  Yc  touch  at  Newport  every  evening  on 
their  way  to  New  York  (fare  §4). 

Railroads.  —  The  Old  Coh)ny,  to  Boston,  67  nules,  fare,  §2.  Via  Wickford 
(by  steam-ferry)  and  Shore  Line  to  New  York,  ISO  miles. 

'rhe  harbor  of  Newport  was  first  visite«l  (during  the  historic  epoch)  by  Verraz- 
zain,  a  noble  Florentine,  who  was  sent  with  the  frigate  Daujjhin,  by  King  Francis 
I.  of  France,  to  explore  the  American  coast.  IK-  remained  two  weeks  here,  re- 
titting  his  ship,  resting  his  men,  and  preijaring  reports  for  his  royal  master.  The 
Dutch  and  English  explorers  visited  the  place  occasionally,  until  in  1639  the  settle- 
ment was  made  by  exiled  dissenters  from  the  State  church  of  Puritan  land.  These 
embraced  Baptists,  Aidinomiaus,  and  many  Quakers,  and  Rhode  Island  had  such 
a  consequent  air  of  heterodoxy  and  irregularity  about  it  that  it  was  excluded  from 
the  league  of  the  United  Colonies,  although  it  had  received  a  royal  charter  in 
1665.  So  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  J^resident  Dwight  attrib- 
uted the  laxity  of  morals  in  Stonington  to  "its  nearr.ess  tO  Rhode  Island."  So 
the  little  colony  di'ew  in  its  outlying  settlements,  fortified  Providence,  and  main- 
tained armed  vessels  cniising  about  Rhode  Island  throughout  King  Plulip's  War, 
80  that  no  hostile  Indian  landed  on  the  shores  of  the  "Isle  of  Peace." 

Anawan,  the  chief  captain  of  King  Philip,  and  60  of  his  bravest  warriors,  sur- 
rendered to  Captain  Church  after  the  death  of  Philip,  being  promised  amnesty. 
The  broken-hearted  chief  delivered  up  his  sovereign's  rude  regalia,  and  all  accom- 
panied Church  to  Newport,  where,  shortly  after,  in  Church's  absence,  he  was  pcr- 


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BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3. 


41 


fldiously  beheaded.  The  chief  Tispaquin  and  liis  men  also  surrendered  to  Church 
under  solemn  pledges  of  pardon  and  aiimesty,  but  the  murder  of  this  patriotic 
leader  was  reserved  for  the  people  of  Plymouth. 

In  1629-31  Dean  Berkeley  gave  a  high  literary  tone  to  the  colony,  and  organized 
a  philosophic  society  and  scientiiic  discussions.  The  harbor  of  Newport  was 
fortified  in  1733.  The  royal  census  of  1730  reported  4,640  inhabitants  in  the  town. 
In  1769-70  Ne>vport  stood  second  only  to  Boston  in  the  extent  of  its  commerce, 
being  far  ahead  of  New  Yorlv.  Its  population  in  1774  was  l'2,o00,  and  in  1870  it 
was  12,518.  In  Dec,  1776,  the  town  was  captured  by  a  British  exi)edition  from 
New  York,  and  was  held  until  Nov.,  1779.  Lord  Pen^y  commanded  here  until 
he  was  summoned  to  England  to  assume  the  Dukedom  of  Northumberland. 
Tlie  Hessian  Waldeck  regiment  (1,500  men)  formed  part  of  the  garrison,  and 
Admiral  Howe's  fleet  wintered  here,  1777-78,  and  returned  here  after  its  battle 
with  D'Estaing's  fleet  off  Point  Judith.  Later  in  the  year  D'Estaing  made  a 
daring  demonstration,  which  caused  the  British  to  burn  six  frigates  before  the 
town.  Sullivan  and  Green  advanced  down  the  island  in  Aug.,  1778,  but  were 
forced  to  retire,  after  an  indecisive  action.  In  Nov..  1779,  the  Anglo-Hessian 
army  evacuated  the  place,  having  destroyed  the  wharves,  fortifications,  &c. 
In  1779  D'Estiiing  worsted  Admiral  Arbuthnot  in  a  jvetty  action  off  Gardiner's 
Island,  and  then  returned  to  Newport.  In  July,  1780,  a  large  fleet,  commanded 
by  the  Chevalier  de  Ternay,  "  Kniglit  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  (iovernor  of  the 
Islands  of  France  and  Bourbon,"  Sc,  appeared  in  the  harbor,  bringing 
the  Count  de  Rocliaml)eau  and  6,000  French  soldiers  (the  regiments  Bour- 
bonnais,  Agenois,  Royal  Auvergne,  de  Saintouge,  Royal  Deux-Ponts,  Touraine, 
Soissonais,  &c.).  Among  his  officers  were  Aubert  Dubayet,  who  afterwards  was 
gen.  commanding  Mayence  and  in  La  Vendee,  and  in  1796  was  Minister  of  War  ; 
Count  d'Autichamp,  afterwards  an  emvjre  who  served  in  all  Conde's  cam- 
paigns ;  Viscount  Beauharnais,  afterwards  President  ol  the  Frencli  Assembly  and 
Minister  of  War,  who  was  guillotined  in  1794.  His  son  Eugene  became  Viceroy 
of  Italy,  and  his  widow,  Josephine,  became  Empress  of  Franco  ;  Berthier,  af- 
terwards Marshal  of  France  and  I'rince  of  Neufchatel  and  Wagram,  created  by 
Louis  XVIII.  a  Peer  of  France,  and  assassinated  at  liamberg  in  1815;  Viscount 
de  Bethisy,  afterwards  lieut.-gen.  in  the  army  of  Conde ;  Christian,  Count 
of  Forbach,  and  William,  his  successor,  fought  in  the  Royal  Deux  Pouts  regi- 
ment ;  Count  Axel  Fersen,  later  Grand  Marshal  of  Sweden  ;  Viscount  de  Fleury, 
later  Marshal  of  France ;  tlie  Duke  de  Lauzun,  who  cdmmr  nded  the  Army  of  the 
Rhine  and  of  La  Rochelle,  defeated  the  royalist  La  Vendee,  and  was  guillotined 
in  1794  ;  Viscount  de  Noailles  ;  Marquis  de  Cliastellux ;  Viscount  Laval,  and  his 
son,  afterwards  the  Duke  .1".  Laval  ;  Viscoimt  de  Mirabeau,  colonel  of  the  regi- 
ment La  Touraine,  brother  of  the  great  Mirabeau  ;  Count  du  Muy  ;  Chevalier  de 
Mauduit-Plessis  ;  Marquis  de  Vlomenil ;  Viscount  de  Fleury  ;  Count  de  Dumas  ; 
Chevalier  Dupertail  ;  Duke  de  Damas  ;  Viscount  Desandrouins  ;  Ar^liur  Count  de 
Dillon,  who  defeat  d  the  Prussiaus  at  Argonne  and  Verdun,  and  was  guillotined  in 
1794  ;  Marquis  deDubouchet ;  Baron  Turreau  ;  Baron  Viomenil ;  Victor  de  Broglie  ; 
Count  de  Custine,  a  veteran  of  e  Great  Frederick's  Seven  Year's  War,  afterwards 
governor  of  Toulon,  commandei  of  the  Army  of  tlni  North,  and  of  the  Lower 
Rhine,  and  guliotined  in  1793. 

In  1781  the  Cli'  valier  de  Tilly  broke  uj)  Arnf)ld's  rai  ling  fleet  in  the  Chesapeake, 
and  brought  the  Ronuilus,"  44,  and  six  other  priziis  into  Newport.  Through- 
out the  war,  New^  rt  was  rudely  handled  and  gradually  demolished,  until  Brissot 
de  Warville,  visitin  tlie  place  in  1788,  sa'd  that  it  resembled  Liege  after  tlie  great 
siege.  "Tlie  reign  solitude  is  only  iiitLn-ruptod  by  groujis  of  idle  men  standing 
witli  folded  arms  at  tlie  (corners  of  tie  streets  ;  houses  falling  to  ruin  ;  miserable 
shops  wliich  present  nothing  but  a  few  coarse  stuff's,  or  baskets  of  apples,  and 
other  things  of  little  value  ;  grass  growing  in  the  public  .scpiare  in  front  of  the 
court  of  justice  ;  rags  sti'H'ed  in  the  windows,  or  hung  upon  hideous  women  and 
lean,  unquiet  children."  At  the  close  of  ^le  Revolt  tion,  the  French  government 
made  strenuous  ettbrts  to  have  Rhode  Island  ceded  to  the  domain  of  France. 
President  Adams  made  a  naval  stJition  here,  fortified  Avith  six  batteries.  Dr. 
Samuel  Hopkins,  the  founder  of  the  Ilopkinsian  scliool  of  theology  ("System  of 
Theology "),  and  hero  of  Mrs.  Stowe's  novel,  "The  Jtlinister's  Wooing,"  preached 
at  Newport,  1770  - 1803.  Dr.  Stiles,  afterwards  President  of  Y'ale  College,  preached 
here  for  many  years.  The  population,  which  in  17S2  was  reduced  to  ujySO,  ros<; 
slowly  until  the  war  of  1812  stop] led  its  growth,  and  since  ti>eu  the  progress  of 


42       Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


i 


Newport,  has  been  slow  and  uneven.  But  this  unprogressive  and  tranquil  spirit 
<'onstitutes  one  of  the  charms  of  Newport,  and  makes  of  this  quiet  little  marine 
city  the  Ostcnd,  the  Nice  of  America. 

William  EUery  Channiu},'  was  born  at  Newport  in  1780  (died  1842).  "The  in- 
fluences of  ilie  climate  and  scenery  of  tlie  island  where  his  l)oyhood  was  passed, 
had  no  slight  influence  ujwn  the  social  and  moral  attributes  of  his  mind."  He 
won  the  highest  honors  at  Harvard  University,  and  afterwards  was  i)astor  of  u 
Unitiirian  Cliurch  in  Boston  lor  37  years.  He  was  an  abolitionist,  an  anti- 
annexationist,  and  an  advocate  of  peace,  and  his  principles  were  sustained 
with  fearless  independence,  ])lain-spoken  fidelity,  and  a  solenm  and  impressive 
manner.  As  the;  leader  of  tlie  liberal  i)arty  in  the  Unitarian  controversy,  his 
power  was  derived  as  much  from  the  symmetrical  beauty  of  his  life  as  from  the 
remarkable  strength  of  liis  writings.  "  He  has  the  love  of  wisdom,  and  the  wis- 
dom of  love." —  Coleridge,  of  Channiug.  v,.i'i. 

Newport,  "the  Queen  of  American  watering-places,"  and  a  semi-capi- 
tal of  the  State  of  Rhode  I.sland,  is  on  the  S.  W.  sliore  of  the  island 
from  wliich  tlie  State  is  named,  and  fronts,  across  its  liarbor,  on  Narra- 
gansett  liay.  Its  older  portion,  lying  near  the  wharves,  has  many  narrow 
streets,  bordered  with  the  houses  of  the  year-round  residents,  many  of 
whicli  are  mansions  of  the  old  time.  New  Newport  almost  surrounds 
the  old  town,  and  stretches  aAvay  to  the  S.  with  a  great  number  of 
handsome  villas  and  cottages.  The  bathing  and  boating  at  Newport  are 
fine,  the  drives  over  the  "  Isle  of  Peace"  are  varied  and  pleasant,  but  the 
cliief  charm  of  the  place  is  its  balmy  and  equable  climate,  due,  according 
to  most  opinions,  to  a  divergence  in  this  direction  of  the  waters  of  the 
Gulf  Stream.  Dean  'Berkeley  likened  the  atmosphere  of  Newport  to  that 
of  Italy,  while  another  writer  speaks  of  the  damp  sea-air  and  equable 
climate  as  resembling  those  of  England.  Fogs  are  of  frequent  occurrence, 
but  of  short  duration.  There  are  many  summer  visitors  from  the  South 
and  the  West  Indies,  while  the  array  of  literary  talent  wliich  gatliers  here 
yearly  is  quite  attractive.  Several  of  the  ambassadors  from  Europe,  with 
the  nobles  connected  with  the  embassies,  spend  their  summers  here.  The 
feature  of  private  cottages  is  largely  developed  here,  and  hotel  life  is  quite 
subordinate  to  it.  Wealthy  New  York  and  Boston  merchants  move  into 
their  palatial  villas  early  in  the  summer,  and  have  tlieir  horses  and  car- 
riages sent  on,  so  that  by  Aug.  1  the  broad,  firm  avenues,  and  the  hard 
and  level  beaches  are  filled  with  cheerful  life. 

Tlie  central  point  in  Old  Newport  is  Washington  Square,  with  its  mall 
and  fountain.  Tlie  State  House  fronts  on  this  Square, —  a  plain  but  solid 
old  building  erected  in  1742,  wliich  served  as  a  hospital  from  1776  to  1781. 
From  its  steps  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  read,  July  20,  1776, 
and  in  its  Senate  Chamber  is  a  fine  portrait  of  George  Washington,  by 
Stuart.  Tlie  City  Hall,  the  Perry  Hotel,  and  the  mansion  taken  by 
Com.  Perry  after  his  victory  at  Lake  Erie,  all  front  on  this  Square.  Gen. 
Washington  passed  through  this  Square  on  his  way  to  Rochambeau's 
headquarters  in  his  first  visit  to  Newport.  In  the  evening  the  town 
was  illuminated,  and  Washington,  Rocliambeau,  and  the  French  nobles 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.       43 


5  mall 

solid 

1781. 

1770, 

11,  by 

u  by 

Gen. 

eau's 

town 

loblcs 


♦ 


i 


paraded  through  the  streets.  Trinity  Church  (on  Church  St.)  was 
hnilt  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  and  was  often  preached  in  by 
Dean  Berkeley  (1729  to  1731).  He  presented  an  organ  (vstill  in  use)  to 
this  church,  and  left  a  dearer  token,  one  of  his  children,  in  the  old  church- 
yard. On  Farewell  St,  is  an  ancient  cemetery,  where  are  buried  many 
of  the  earliest  colonists  and  their  governors.  The  Jewish  cemetery  on 
Touro  St.  is  a  beautiful  garden-spot  kept  in  perfect  order.  Near  it  is 
the  Synagogue,  the  first  in  the  Union  (built  in  1762),  and  not  now  used, 
though  kept  in  order  by  permanent  endowments.  The  *  Bedwood 
Library  is  south  of  the  cemetery,  in  a  handsome  Doric  building,  dating 
from  1750.  An  elegant  though  small  library  is  kept  here,  and  some  good 
paintings,  together  with  some  fine  p'eces  of  statuary.  The  King  of  Eng- 
land gave  84  volumes  to  this  library,  and  Dean  Berkeley  gave  also  a  large 
number  ;  but  when  the  evacuating  British  anny  carried  even  the  church- 
bells  with  them,  they  spared  not  the  Redwood  Library.  Touro  Park  is  a 
favorite  resort,  and  was  the  gift  of  Judah  Touro,  born  at  Newport  in  1775, 
the  son  of  Isaac  Touro,  the  pastor  of  the  Jewish  Synagogue.  From  1802 
to  1854  he  lived  in  New  Orleans,  wliere  he  amassed  a  large  fortune  which 
he  left  to  various  charities,  mostly  those  of  the  Christian  Church,  though 
he  himself  was  a  Jew.  "He  gave  $10,000  towards  the  Bunker  Hill 
Monument."  On  this  Park,  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence,  stands  the 
*  Round  Tower,  otherwise  called  the  Old  Stone  Mill,  an  ivy-clad,  circular 
stone  tower  supported  on  roimd  arches.  More  battles  of  the  antiqua- 
rians have  been  fought  over  this  ancient  tower  than  could  well  be  num- 
bered, the  radical  theories  of  its  origin  being,  on  the  one  side,  that  it  was 
built  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  11th  century,  and  on  the  other  that  a 
colonial  governor  (over  perhaps  500  people),  built  it  for  a  windmill  in  the 
17th  century.  Verrazzani  spent  15  days  in  the  harbor  and  exploring  the 
land  (1524),  but  makes  no  mention  of  this  tower  ;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  certain  that  the  early  colonists  never  built  in  such  architecture  or 
materials  as  are  here  seen.  The  only  thing  in  favor  of  the  mill  theory  is 
the  fact  that  Gov.  Benedict  Arnold  (died  in  1678)  bequeathes  it  in  his 
will  as  "my  stone-built  windmill."  The  opening  scenes  of  Cooper's 
"Spy  "are  laid  in  this  vicinity ;  and  Longfellow's  poem,  "The  Skeleton 
in  Armor,"  has  told  its  story.  But  "  its  history  has  already,  in  Young 
America,  passed  into  the  region  of  myth."  Near  the  round  tower  stands 
the  statue  of  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry,  who  opened  Japan  to  the  world 
(1854). 

The  Vernon  House  (corner  Mary  and  Clarke  Sts. )  w'<,s  Rochambeau's 
headquarters  in  1780.  Also  on  Clarke  St.  is  the  Central  Baptist  Church, 
built  in  1733,  and  next  to  it  is  the  armory  of  the  Newport  Artillery  Com- 
pany, an  elite  corps,  formed  in  1741.  The  first  Methodist  steeple  in  the 
world  is  on  the  church  on  Marlboro  St.     The  Penrose  House,  on  Churcli 


44       Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


\\ 


>:  \  ! 


St.,  a  famous  old  colonial  mansion,  where  Gen.  Washington  was  once 
a  guest,  is  now  a  tenement  house,  and  the  Channing  Mansion  (built  1720) 
is  near  Thames  St.  The  First  Baptist  Church,  on  Spring  St.,  dates  from 
1638.  In  the  office  of  the  Mercury ,  a  weekly  paper  started  in  1758,  is 
Ben.  Franklin's  printing-press,  imported  in  1720.  The  News  is  a  bright 
daily  newspaper. 

12  M.  N.  E.  of  Newport  is  the  Stone  Bridge  which  unites  Rhode 
Island  with  the  mainland  at  Tiverton.  About  7  M.  out  is  the  Olen,  a 
romantic  spot,  tree-shaded  and  (piiet,  where  an  old  mill  stands  near  a 
small  pond.  This  is  a  favorite  drive  for  the  Newpoi-t  visitors,  forming  an 
easy  afternoon's  ride.  A  small  hotel  is  situated  1-2  M.  from  the  Glen, 
and  a  church  in  the  vicinity  was  frequently  preached  in  by  Dr.  Channing, 
**the  Apostle  of  Unitarianism." 

6-7  M.  from  NcAvport,  on  a  road  running  to  the  W.  of  the  Stone 
Bridge  highway,  is  Lawton's  Valley,  a  beautiful  rural  resort,  rich  in 
verdure  and  in  trees  which  are  kept  green  by  a  bright  stream  llowing 
seaward.  The  Pond  and  Old  Mill  are  the  principal  objects  in  the  scenery. 
Over  the  valley  is  Butt's  Hill,  where  Sir  Robert  Pigott  attacked  the  Amer- 
icans under  Sullivan  and  Green  on  their  retreat  from  the  siege.  Pigott 
impulsively  attacked  the  halting  army,  and  was  beaten  back  by  them 
until  nightfall,  when  the  Americans  Continued  their  retreat  to  the  main- 
land, saving  both  their  artillery  and  their  stores.  The  British  loss  was 
260,  while  the  New  England  militia  lost  206  men.  3|  M.  from  New- 
port, on  this  road,  is  the  pretty  little  church  of  the  Holy  Cross, 
and  near  it  is  the  farmhouse  used  by  the  British  Gen.  Prescott  as 
heaqduarters.  On  the  night  of  July  10,  1777,  Lieut. -Col.  Barton  and 
a  small  party  crossed  Narraganset  Bay  in  a  boat,  and  took  Prescott 
from  his  bed,  carrying  him  into  captivity.  He  was  exchanged  for 
Gen.  Lee. 

The  grand  drive  is  on  *  Sellevue  Ave.,  a  clean,  broad  road,  lined 
with  villas,  and  running  two  miles  to  the  S.  Here,  at  the  fashionable 
hour,  passes  a  procession  of  elegant  equipages  only  equalled  in  Central 
Park,  Hyde  Park,  or  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  Many  of  the  homes  along 
this  avenue  are  of  palatial  splendor,  and  they  form  a  handsome  panorama 
of  architecture.  Bailey's  Beach  is  at  the  end  of  Bellevue  Ave. ;  and 
among  the  rocky  cliffs  on  the  shore  near  by  is  the  Spouting  Cave,  a  deep 
cavern  running  back  from  the  sea,  into  which  great  Avaves  crowd  after  a 
storm  from  the  S.  E.  Unable  to  go  farther,  they  break  with  a  heavy 
boom,  and  dash  upward  through  an  opening  in  the  roof,  sometimes  to  a 
height  of  40-50  ft.  From  the  cliffs  in  the  vicinity  (near  the  Boat- 
House  Landing)  a  noble  sea-view  is  gained,  stretching  as  far  as  Block 
Island,  30  miles  S.  W.  The  picturesque  Gooseberry  Island  is  nearer, 
in  the  foregroimd.      "A  finer  sea-view  —  lit  up,   as  it  is,   moreover, 


•  ^ 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOKK. 


Route  3.       45 


along 

Oram  a 

:  and 

deep 
'ter  a 
leavy 

to  a 
Boat- 
Block 
learer, 
cover, 


by  tlie  ever  truly  fairy-like  spectacle  of  ships  gliding  under  sail  over 
the  waters  —  the  eye  can  rarely  witness."  Narragansett  Ave.  runs  at 
right  angles  with  Belle vue  Ave.,  and  terminates  on  the  E.  at  the  Forty 
Steps  (leading  dowu  tlie  rocks).     It  is  lined  with  fine  houses. 

The  *  First  Baach  (about  ^  M.  from  the  Ocean  House)  is  a  strip  of 
white  sand,  hard  and  smooth,  extendiag  for  1  M,  in  length  and  lined 
with  batli-liouses.  The  slope  of  the  shore  is  very  gradual,  .  id  the  surf 
is  light  rather  than  lieavy,  so  that  this  is  one  of  the  safest  beaches 
on  the  coast.  It  is  a  lively  and  brilliant  scene  liere  during  the  hours 
of  the  white  flag  in  warm  days,  and  the  beach  is  fringed  with  carriages. 
The  Cliff  Cottages  are  in  this  vicinity.  1  M.  E.  is  the  Second,  or 
Sachuest  Beach,  whose  "lianl  black  beach  is  the  most  perfect  race- 
course, and  the  heaving  of  the  sea  sympathizes  with  the  rider,  and  in- 
s[)ires  him."  The  hours  of  low  tide  are  the  favoriiv-  times  to  ride  here. 
*  Purgatory  is  at  the  W.  end  of  Sachuest  Beach.  It  is  a  wonderful 
chasm,  100  ft.  long,  40  -  50  ft.  deci),  and  8-14  ft.  wide  at  the  top,  torn 
out  by  upheaval  or  eaten  by  the  waves,  iu  the  graywacke  rock.  Several 
feet  of  water  remain  in  the  chasm  at  low  tide,  and  in  stormy  high  tides 
heavy  masses  of  water  boom  through  it.  The  familiar  story  of  the 
Lover's  Leap  of  course  attaches  to  this  place,  but  is  antedated  by  the 
legend  that  the  Devil  once  threw  into  it  a  sinful  Indian  sqxiaw,  and  his 
lioof-marks  can  be  seen  by  all  unbelievers.  Other  stories,  of  later  date, 
attach  to  the  Purgatory,  but  the  origin  of  its  name  does  not  transpire. 
Paradise  is  a  verdant  valley  adorned  with  cottages,  opening  off  Sachuest 
Beach,  and  near  it  is  a  mass  of  rocks  and  upheaved  boulders  called  Para- 
dise Lost.  The  Tiiird  Beach  is  a  long,  quiet,  and  sequestered  line  of  sand, 
above  which  are  tlxe  Hanging  Books,  where,  in  a  sheltered  natural  alcove. 
Dean  Berkeley  loved  to  siL,  and  look  out  over  the  wide  sea,  and  write  dowu 
his  meditations. 

Here  he  composed  "Alciphron  ;  or  the  Minute  Philosopher,"  a  series  of  Platonic 
dialogues  defending  the  Christian  system.  Here  probably  he  wrote  the  noble 
lyric  oudiug  with  tlio  prophcy  :  — 

"  Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way, 
The  four  first  acts  already  past, 
A  fifth  shall  end  the  drama  with  the  day. 
Time's  noblest  offspriug  is  the  last." 

George  Berkeley,  Dean  of  Derry,  a  famous  philosopher  and  idealist,  conceived 
a  plan  for  converting  the  Amcrictan  Indians  by  a  university,  and  came  to  New- 
port, under  royal  charter,  in  1729.  He  built  the  mansion  "  Whitehall"  (now 
a  fiirmhouse),  3  M.  from  the  town,  but  soon  found  that  hi^  scheme  was  iin- 
jnacticable,  and  returned  to  England  in  1731,  giving  his  Newport  estate  and  a  fine 
library  to  Yale  and  Harvard  Colleges.  From  1733  until  his  death  (in  1753)  he  was 
Uishop  of  Cloyue. 

AVashington  Allston  was  fond  of  roaming  on  these  beaches,  and  Dr.  Channing 
once  remarked  (of  First  Beach),  "No  spot  on  earth  has  helped  to  form  me  so 
much  as  that  beach." 

Saclmest  Point  is  on  the  S.  E.  of  the  island,  and  is  much  visited  by 
fisliermen. 


46       Jioute  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Ml 


To  Miantonomi  Hill,  \\  M.  from  tho  city,  with  its  old  British  eartJi- 
works  and  noble  view  of  Newport  niiJ  its  environs,  is  a  pleasant  ex- 
cursion for  a  clear  day.  Honeynmn's  Hill,  near  Miantonomi,  is  another 
far-viewing  point.  The  old  Malbone  Estate  (see  "Malbone;  a  Romance 
of  Oldport,"  by  T.  W.  Higginson)  was  at  the  foot  of  Miantonomi  Hill. 

The  Pirates'  Cave  and  Batenian's  Point  are  often  visited,  being  about 
4^  M.  from  the  city,  and  a  favorite  drive  is  around  the  Neck,  past 
Fort  Adams,  and  along  Ocean  and  Bellevue  Aves.  to  the  city  again,  the 
distance  being  little  more  than  10  M. 

Fort  Adams,  distant  34:-4  M.  from  the  city  (by  Thames  St.  and  WeU 
lington  Ave.).  This  is  the  strongest  (save  two,  Fortress  Monroe  and 
Fort  Richmond)  of  the  coast  defences  of  the  U.  S.,  and  mounts  408  can- 
non, requiring  a  garrison  of  3,000  men.  Its  systems  of  covered  ways, 
casemates,  and  otlier  protective  works,  is  comi)lete.  The  *'  fort  days," 
(twice  weekly),  when  the  garrison  band  plays  its  best  music,  attract 
great  numbers  of  visitors,  and  many  carriages  pass  the  imposing  granite 
walls,  and  wait  on  the  parade. 

This  fortress  is  on  Brenton's  Point,  named  for  the  noble  family  of  that  name. 
Wiiliuni  Brenton  was  governor  of  the  colony  lGGO-69  ;  his  son,  Jahleel,  was  a  cus- 
toms officer  under  William  III.  ;  his  grandson,  Jahleel,  resided  on  the  great  family 
estates  in  the  island ;  his  great-grandson,  Jahleel,  refused  very  tempting  offers 
from  the  Americans,  left  his  estates,  which  were  afterwards  contiscated,  and  com- 
manded the  British  frigate,  the  "Queen"  ;  his  great-great-grandson,  Jahleel,  an 
English  knight  and  rear-admiral  of  the  Blue,  died  at  Loudon  in  1844. 

Opposite  Fort  Adams,  on  Conanicut  Island,  is  an  old  stone  fort,  cir- 
cular in  form,  called  the  Dumplings.  A  flue  marine  view  is  enjoyed 
from  this  loftily  i)laced  ruin. 

Goat  Island,  opjiosite  the  city-wharves,  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
torpedo  division  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  Service.  Here  is  the  school  in  which 
the  young  officers  of  the  navy  are  instructed  in  the  torpedo  service.  Lime 
Rock  is  beyond  Goat  Island,  and  is  famed  for  being  the  home  of  Ida 
Lewis,  the  American  Grace  Darling,  who  has  saved  many  lives  in  this 
harbor.  Hose  Island  is  farther  out  in  tlie  Bay,  and  has  the  remains  of  an 
old  fort  upon  it.  Fort  Green  was  built  in  1798,  near  the  Blue  Rocks  and 
the  line  of  Washington  St.  On  Coasiefs  Harbor  Island  is  a  fine 
Asylum  for  the  poor,  on  land  left  by  Wm.  Coddington,  the  founder  of 
R.  I.,  and  for  nine  years  its  governor. 

Rhode  Island  was  bought  from  the  Indians  in  1638.  Its  name  was  Aquid- 
necli,  "The  1^'e  of  Pecice."  The  earliest  discoverers  named  it  Claudia,  and  a  later 
exploring  expedition  from  Holland,  coming  upon  it  in  the  autumn,  when  its  forests 
Avere  in  bright  colors,  called  it  Rood  Eylandt,  the  Red  Island.  Roger  Williams 
tried  to  fasten  the  name  "  Patmos"  upon  it,  but  Rhode  Island  prevailed,  derived, 
uecording  to  some,  from  its  similarity  to  the  Isle  of  Rhodes,  a  Moslem  fortress  in 
the  E.  Mediterranean.  In  that  early  day  Neale  called  it  "the  garden  of  New 
England,"  and  even  now  the  Rhode  Island  farms  are  the  most  valuable  in  the  six 
States.  Olf  its  shores  are  cauglit  112  kinds  of  fish,  ranging  from  whales  to 
smelts.    The  island  is   1;')  M.  long  by  8-4  M.   wide,  and  is  "pleasantly  laid 


I: 


!     ;. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Routes.       47 


lof  the 

which 

Lime 

lot'  Ida 

u  this 

of  an 

Iks  and 

a   fine 

der  of 


JAquid- 
] a  later 
jibrcsts 
lilliams 
Icrived, 
Iress  in 
\i  New 
Ithe  six 
lales  to 
lly  laid 


out  in  hllla  and  valea  and  ri.Hing  grdunds,  with  plenty  of  excellent  springs* 
uud  line  liviilctd,  and  many  deli^^litt'ul  land.icapes  uf  tork,  and  proinuntui-ies,  and 
adjacent  lands." 

Malbone,  the  celebrated  portrait-painter,  was  lM)rn  at  Newport  in  1777,  and  Capt. 
Decatur,  of  the  navy,  was  horn  here  in  17JI,  whoso  son  was  Stcithen  Decatur, 
"the  Bayard  of  the  seas." 

After  leaving  Fall  River,  and  touching  at  Newport.,  the  steamer  moves 
on  steadily  through  the  night,  passing  Point  Judith,  Block  Island,  and 
Fisher's  Island,  after  wliich  she  enters  the  tranquil  waters  of  Long  Island 
Sound.  At  a  very  early  hour  the  narrowing  W.  end  of  the  Sound  is 
entered,  and  the  shores  of  Westchester  County  are  passed  on  the  N. 
Throgg's  Point,  on  the  r.,  bears  Fort  Scliuyler  (318  guns),  out  on  the 
Sound,  which  is  mated  hy  a  strong  fortress  on  Willet's  Point  (opposite). 
After  passing  several  villages,  J"'lushing  Bay  opens  to  the  1.,  with  the 
beautiful  village  of  Flushing  at  its  head!  Richly  cultivated  islands  and 
shores  follow,  up  to  Randall's  Island,  with  the  House  of  Refuge,  and 
Ward's  Island,  with  tlie  Emigrant-Refuge  and  Hospital,  and  the  Potter's 
Field,  where  3,000  of  the  poor  of  New  York  are  buried  yearly.  The 
steamer  now  enters  Hell  Gate,  a  wild  and  turbulent  succession  of  strong 
currents  and  whirlpools,  caused  by  the  action  of  immense  bodies  of  water, 
in  the  changes  of  the  tide,  t)cing  poured  through  this  narrow  and  sinuous 
strait,  which  abounds  in  rocky  islets  and  sunken  ledges.  The  passage  .of 
this  point  was  fonnerly  ditlicult  and  dangerous,  and  two  or  three  British 
frigates  were  wrecked  here  during  our  wars.  But  immense  ledges  have 
l)een  removed  by  submarine  blasting,  and  now  but  little  danger  remains. 
Astoria  and  Ravensv/ood  are  beautiful  villages  soon  passed  on  the  Long- 
Island  shore,  after  -which  Blackwell's  Island  comes  into  view,  with  its 
long  lines  of  charitable  and  correctional  establishments.  The  N.  point 
of  this  island  is  occupied  by  a  neat  little  model  of  a  fort,  with  a  fonnid- 
able  array  of  wooden  cannon,  called  Fort  Maxey  or  the  Crazy-Man's  Fort. 
It  was  built  by  an  Irish  lunatic  named  Ma.xey,  who  has  lived  many  years 
here,  and  claims  a  great  sum  from  the  government  for  his  defense  of  New 
York.  The  octagonal  building,  with  two  long  wings,  is  the  Lunatic 
Asylum.  One  wing  is  reserved  for  each  sex,  while  the  more  noisy 
maniacs  are  kept  in  a  separate  building  on  the  E.  The  Work-Houses 
come  next,  wliere  willing  hands  which  can  find  no  work,  and  vagrants, 
wlio  will  not  do  honest  labor,  are  furnished  with  appropriate  work.  The 
extensive  Alnis-Houses,  with  the  handsome  house  of  the  Superintendent, 
come  next,  being  divided  into  male  and  female  departments.  Then  the 
extensive  Penitentiary  and  Charity-Hospital  are  passed,  and,  on  the  lower 
end  of  the  island,  the  ornate  building  of  the  Small-Pox  Hospital.  These 
structures  are  all  of  granite,  quarried  here  bj'-  tlie  convicts,  and  probably 
there  is  no  cluster  of  such  institutions,  in  the  same  space,  in  the  world, 
wliich  combine  so  much  of  safety,  comfort,  and  practical  influence  for 
correction  and  restraint.     Deep  ship-channels  run  on  each  side  of  the 


4   <l 


Il 


: 


48       Jtuule  4. 


BOSTON  TO  S.  DUXBUKY. 


island,  and  on  the  Manlmttan  sliore,  opposite  its  centre,  is  the  great 
German  Festival-CJardcn,  called  Jones'  Wood.  Hunter's  Point  and 
Groonpoint  are  now  passed  on  the  left,  antl  a  long  line,  on  both  sides  of 
the  East  River,  of  foundries  and  factories.  Then  comes  Williamsburg 
with  its  shipyards.  On  the  1.,  and  beyond  it,  fronting  on  Wallabout 
Bay,  is  the  Brooklyn  Navy- Yard,  the  principal  naval-station  of  the 
Union,  wliere  several  U.  S.  frigates  may  usually  be  seen.  Crowded 
wharves  now  stretch  into  the  stream  on  each  side,  with  forests  of 
masts,  while  fleet  and  powerful  tug-ltoats  dart  to  and  fro  in  the  river,  and 
the  crowded  and  ever  busy  ferry-boats  cross  and  recross  it.  The  works 
of  the  great  East-River  Bridge  are  seen  near  Fulton  Ferry  in  Brooklyn. 
Wiiere  Brooklyn  bends  olf  to  the  S.  W.,  the  steamer  turns  to  the 
W.,  and  passes  Governor's  Island  on  the  1.  This  island  l)elongs  to 
the  government,  and  its  centre  is  occupied  by  Fort  Columbus,  a  low-lying 
but  powerful  star- fort,  mounting  120  guns.  A  water-battery  on  the 
S.  W.  commands  the  channel  toward  Brooklj'n,  and  a  tall,  semi-cir- 
cular fort  with  tliree  tiers  of  gnus,  cjilled  Castle  William,  looks  toward 
the  Battery.  The  steamer  now  rounds  tlic  Battery,  the  tree-shaded 
lower  extremity  of  Manhattan  Island.  This  was  once  a  favorite  park, 
but  is  now  neglected.  The  curious  ro'  '  building  at  the  water's  edge 
was  built  in  1807  by  the  government,  a.^  a  fortress,  under  the  name  of 
Castle  Clinton.  At  a  later  day  great  fairs  and  concerts  were  held  here, 
and  it  is  now  used  as  an  emigrant  depot.  On  the  1.,  Ellis,  Bedloes,  an^ 
Staten  Islands  are  seen,  and  Jersey  City  and  Bergen.  Passing  up  the 
North  River  the  boat  soon  enters  its  dock  at  the  foot  of  Chambers  Hi, 
(see  New  York). 

4.   Boston  to  S.  Duxbury. 

Via  Old  Colony  and  South  Shore  Railroads.  Distance,  39  M.  Time, 
l.^-24hrs. 

Boston  to  Braintree,  see  Route  3.  Stations,  E.  B  -'n'ntree,  Weymouth, 
WeBsasoBset  (Weymouth  Hotel),  12  M.  from  Boston,  a  town  of  9,000  in- 
habitants, was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  60  Episcopalians.  Here,  in 
1623,  occurred  the  terrible  attack  of  Miles  Standish  on  the  assembled  In- 
dian chiefs,  whose  justifiableness  has  not  yet  been  proven  clearly.  The 
scene  is  well  described  in  the  7tli  part  of  "  The  Courtship  of  Miles  Stand- 
ish," by  Longfellow.  After  this  affair,  the  Episcopalian  colonists  left, 
and  in  1624  a  company  moved  in  from  Weymouth,  in  Dorsetshire,  Eng. 
who  gave  its  name  to  tlie  town. 

Stations  jV.  Weymouth,  E.  Weyyiiovth,  W.  IlingJiam,  HingJuim  (see 
Route  2),  Nantasket,  and  Cohasset.  The  latter  is  a  small  town  with 
a  quaint  old  church  on  its  green.  Tlie  rocky  shores  and  resounding 
inlets  along  the  ocean  front  are  very  picturesque,  and  are  adorned 
with  fine  villas. 


r  : 


BOSTON  TO  S.  DUXBUKV. 


liQut,^  4.      4U 


Time, 


No  district  In  America  yields  sudi  quant,  -s  of  Iiisli  moss  as  do  thn  short>9  of 
C'nliasHot  and  Meiluute.  On  tliesc  s.iii.e  "  hard  ait- nitic  rofk.s,  which  tlio  waves 
li.ivo  laid  bare  but  liave  not  bi'eii  ;ible  to  ciinrdile,"  in  Oct.,  184'.t,  the  emigrant 
vessel  "St.  Juiin  "  was  wrecki'd,  and  niany  scores  of  itasscngrrs  were  lost.  "The 
si'a-luthin.;.?  at  C<tlia.s.si't  llocks  was  [»erlV<'t.  Tim  water  was  piirt^rand  more  trans- 
l)areut  tliaa  any  I  liad  (n-er  st't-n.  'V\n\  smootli  and  fiiutastically  worn  rtx'lts,  and 
tlm  iM'rfectiy  clean  and  tress  like  rock-weeds  falliiiK  over  you,  and  attached  so 
firndy  to  tlie  ro'ks  tliat  you  enuld  imll  yoinsclf  up  liy  them,  greatly  erdiauced  the 
luxury  of  the  bath."  —  Thoreati.  Capt.  Jnlju  Smitli,  wiien  passing'  liy  one  of 
tlie.se  rocky  prDmontories,  in  Kill,  was  attack''!  by  tlie  Indians  with  arrows, 
whereupon  lie  .says,  "  We  !•  'iind  tiie  people  in  tliost  puts  verie  ki  ide  ;  Ijut  in  tlieir 
furie  no  le.sse  valiant." 

At  N.  Cohiv.sset  are   tlio   Black   Rock   and   Rockville   Houses,  while 

the  Pleasant  Beach  House  is  south  of  these,  and  on  a  point  near  Minut'.s 


Ledge   is   the  extensive   Glades   House.     Minot's  Ledge  is  a  dangerous 


reef  far  out  from  the  shore.  In  1849.  a  lighthou.se  on  iron  piles  was 
built  here,  but  this  was  swejit  away  in  the  great  storm  of  April,  1851, 
and  its  keepers  were  lost.  The  ])resent  lighthouse  (8  M.  from  Boston 
Light)  is  88  ft.  high,  of  wliicli  the  lower  10  ft.  are  of  solid  masonry. 
Stations  N.  Scltuatt ,  Eiji/pt,  Scituate  (South  Shore  House),  a  <piiet 
old  marine  village  looking  out  on  the  ocean  through  a  wide  harbor-mouth 
scarce  a  mile  away.  Cliff  St.  leads  up  on  an  eminence  whence  a  lino 
view  is  gained  of  the  sea,  and  the  singular  and  desolate  bluffs  in  the  S. 
Near  by  is  Peggotty  Beach,  with  good  batliiug,  but  no  hotel. 

Station,  South  Scituate  (far-viewing  hotel  on  the  bhdl's  near  the  R.  R.), 
JC.  Mdi's/ijirhl,  LUtlettnra,  Marshjiiid  Centre. 

Marsh  field  station  is  about  4  M.  from  the  seaside  resort  of  Brant 
Rock  (several  small  hotels).  Carriages  are  usually  in  waiting  at  the  sta- 
tion to  carry  travellers  to  Brant  Rock,  or  to  the  Webster  Estate  (2  M.). 
The  Webster  Mansion  is  a  large,  autKjue,  and  pleasant  house,  approached 
from  the  road  l)y  a  long,  curving  avenue  lined  with  trees.  By  the  courtesy 
(jf  the  present  possessors  of  tlie  estate,  travellers  are  permitted  to  go 
through  the  !u)use  (gratuity  to  servants,  50  cts. ).  The  various  apart- 
ments of  the  house,  low,  broad,  and  wainscotted,  are  filled  with  old  paint- 
ings and  relics.  The  library,  a  higli  and  graceful  room  on  the  N.  wing, 
contains  the  books  and  wiixwy  interesting  mementos  of  the  statesman, 
together  with  au  interpolated  bust  of  Pope  Pius  IX.  ^  M.  S.  of  the 
Webster  Mansion  (passing,  on  the  1.,  a  French-roofed  house,  where  lives 
Adelaide  Phillips,  the  celebrated  contralto),  at  the  end  of  the  road,  is 
the  old  Winslow  House,  built  and  inhabited  by  the  Pilgrim  Gov.  Winslow 
in  tlie  17th  century. 

A  road  turning  to  the  1.  from  the  main  road  just  N.  of  the  Webster  farm,  and 
running  toward  the  sea,  leads  in  a  few  minutes  to  an  ancient  burying-ground 
on  au  ocean-viewing  hill.  The  flrst  graves  reached  are  those  of  the  Webster  family: 
Daniel,  and  his  sons,  ^  Major  Edward,  died  in  the  Mexican  War,  and  Col.  Fletcher 
Webster  (li2th  Mass.  Infantry),  killed  at  the  battle  of  Bull  Run,  18G2. 

Daniel  Webster,  born  at  Salisbury,  N.  H.,  Jan.  18,  187-',  was  in  the  class  of 
1801  at  Dartmouth  College,  and  afterwards  became  a  lawyer.  His  matchless  elo- 
quence and  vast  ability  carried  him  rapidly  forward,  and  he  l>ecame  a  Cougress- 

3  D 


; 
■I 


»  ,; 


;  •* 


It 

.;; 


:i 


00      lioute  4.  BOSTON  TO  b.  DUXBUUY. 

man  (1813 -17,  and  182:$ -27),  a  Senator  (1827-^9,  anU  1845 -r.O).  and  Secretary 
of  State  (1840 -4H,  and  1800-52.)  "  Tlie  famous  Uartu>outh  CoUegu  uuse.  t-Hrrifd 
by  ajUM^ttl  to  Wa«liin}^ton  in  1817,  pluoed  liini  in  tlu-  front  rank  of  tliu  American 
Imr.  Among  tlm  groat  t-asis  argued  l»y  liiiu  l^i-lino  tin-  U.  S,  Supreme  Court 
were  those  of  (iildioiiH  and  Ogdni  (steamltoat  monoixily  case),  that  of  Ogden 
and  Saunders  (StJtto  ins(dvi'rd  laws),  Uw.  Oharies  Kiver  Hndg«^  case,  llio  Alabama 

liunk  ease,  the  (jirard  Will  '-ase,  and  tiie  lihode  Island  Ciiarter  case I)ec. 

22,  1.S20,  he  (hdivend  Ids  cleiirated  discourse  at  I'lymouth  on  tlie  anniversary 
of  the  landing  of  tius  I'ilgiims.  Others  of  tlds  class  of  ellbrts  were  that  on  the 
laying  of  tiu;  <'orner-stoMc  of  the  Hunker  Hill  Moniimeui  (.June  17,  1825),  and 
at  its  completion  (.June  J7,  isi,}),  ami  tlie  eulogy  on  Adams  and  Jellersfm,  July  4, 
1826.  He  again  entered  (Joiigress  in  Dec.,  IH-'.'t  ;  mad^  his  famous  sjjeeidi  on 
th(!  (ireek  Revolution  ;  and,  as  chairman  of  the  judiciary  >  umuuttee,  reported  and 
carried  through  tiie  House  .1  couiplete  rcvisiitii  c'"  tiic  criminal  code  of  the  U. 
B.  In  the  lyth  Congress  he  made  a  masterly  siieecli  on  the  jiroposed  diplo- 
matic Ccmgiess  at  ranania His  great  si)eech  in  reply  to  Huyne,  delivered 

In  the  Senate  Jan.  20  and  27,  18;iU,  on  Kootc'.s  resolution,  has  been  decured, 
next  to  the  (Jonstitution  itself,  tlie  most  correct  and  coiiij)lcte  exposition  of  tiie 
true  powers  and  I'unctions  of  the  Federal  (ioverniiient."  As  Secretary  of  State 
under  Tyler  and  Filiiiiorc,  he  settled  tlu;  Northeaslcni  IJoumlary  (piestion  (Ash- 
burton  Treaty).  "  Mr.  Wel)ster'3  person  was  imposing,  of  commanding  height, 
and  well-proportioned,  tlie  head  of  great  8i/.(^  the  eye  <leep-seated,  large,  and  lus- 
trous, his  voice  deei)  and  sonorous,  bis  action  ajipropiiatc  and  imi>ressive."  His  elo- 
quence on  gr(!at  occasions  has  bcien  called  "the  llglitniiigof  passion  running  along 
tne  iron  links  of  argument."  He  was  very  fond  of  rural  life,  of  farming,  and  of 
fishing  and  hunting.  On  the  21th  of  Oct.,  LSrj2,  at  his  home  in  Marshlield,  died 
Daniel  VVeb.ster,  the  foremost  man  in  New  England's  history 

Near  the  Webster  MonuiiK^nt  is  an  iron-railed  bjt,  containing  the  tombs  of 
"The  Ibmblo.  Josiah  Winslow,  CJov.  of  New  riyniouth.  Dyed  December  ye  18, 
1080,  atatis,  G2."     "  i'eiielope,  ye  widdow  of  Cov.  Winslow,"  and  others. 

Edward  Winslow  came  in  the  "  Maytlower,"  and  was  governor  of  I'lymouth  in 
1633,  '36,  and  '41.  He  was  a  warm  friend  of  tlie  Sacliem  Massasoit.  In  1G35, 
while  Plymouth's  agent.  Archbishop  Jjaud  imi)risoiied  him  17  weeks  in  the  Fleet 
Prison  for  heretical  acts.  He  died  in  1665,  wliihs  in  partial  sujierintendence  of  a 
fleet  sent  by  Cromwell  against  the  Spaniards.  From  Edwanl's  biotiier  was  de- 
scended John  A.  Winslow,  rear-admiral  U.  S.  navy,  who  fought  in  the  Mex- 
ican War,  and  in  the  Western  river  S(iuadrons,  1S61-G3.  June  lit,  1804,  com- 
manding the  "  Kearsaye,"  he  was  attacked  off  Cherbourg  by  the  Confederate  war 
steamer,  the  "Alabama."  The  vessels  were  of  aliout  tlie  same  strength,  but  so 
skilfully  was  the  "  Kearsage  "  protected  and  nianujuvred  that  her  opponent  was 
sunk  within  sight  of  the  crow(li;d  French  coast. 

Josiah  Winslow,  son  of  Edward,  was  born  at  Marshlield  in  1020,  commanded  the 
colonial  armies  tlirough  King  Piiiliji's  War,  and  was  the  lirst  native-born  governor 
(1673-1080).  His  grandson,  John  Winslow,  binn  at  Marshlield,  1702,  a  brave  and 
able  officer,  "  was  tlie  principal  actor  in  the  tragedy  of  tlie  expulsion  of  the  hap- 
less Aeadians  from  Nova  Scotia  in  17")5  ;  and  it  is  a  singular  fact  that,  20  years 
after,  nearly  every  person  of  Winslow 's  lineage  was,  for  political  reasons,  by  the 
force  of  events,  transplantetl  to  the  very  soil  from  which  the  Acadiaus  were  ex- 
pelled." 

After  Mar.slifieUl  are  the  stations  Webster  Place,  Daxhury  (Hollis 
House),  and  S.  Duxbury. 

Duxbury  was  allotted  to  John  Alden  (youngest  of  the  Pilgrims,  whose  great 
grandson  commanded  the  7th  Mass.  Continental  Regt.,  and  was  killed  in  battle  at 
Cherry  Valley),  and  to  Miles  Standish.  The  Bradfords  also  settled  here,  and  Alden 
Bradford,  theauthor,  and  Gamaliel  Bradford,  colonel  of  the  14tli  Mass.  Regt.  through 
the  war  for  independence,  were  born  here.  Duxbury  was  so  named  from  its  be- 
ing the  home  of  the  military  chief  (dux)  of  the  colony.  Standish  lived  on  Cap- 
tain's Hill,  in  S.  Duxbury,  u  far-viewing  eminence  180  ft.  high,  and  sur- 
rounded on  3  sides  by  the  waters  of  the  Bay.  In  Oct.,  1872,  imposing  cere- 
monies were  held  on  this  hill,  and  a  costly  monument  (to  be  finished  late  in 
1878)  was  dedicated  to  the  Pilgrim  soldier.  '  A  line  view  of  Plymouth  and  the 


iecretary 
!,  cRnicil 
Vinericuu 
lie  Court 

Alubaina 
.  .  D.m;. 
niveraury 
ut  oil  the 
825).  iiiid 
I,  July  4. 
|ii;eih  oh 
ortcduiiil 
of  tlio  U. 
ii'd  diplo- 
d«!livered 
dcfured, 
on  of  the 
'  of  State 
ion  (Ash- 
ig  heiK'ht, 
.  and  his- 
"  Ilia  elo- 
ihiK  ah)iig 
ig,  and  of 
held,  died 

tombs  of 

her  ye  18, 

ier«. 

^iiiouth  ill 

In  1035. 

the  Fleet 

denee  of  a 
r  was  de- 
tlie  Mex- 
804,  c'oni- 
rate  war 
li,  but  so 
|>nent  was 

auded  the 
governor 

Ibrave  and 
the  hap- 
W  years 

[s,  by  the 
were  ex- 


(Hollis 


lose  great 
battle  at 
Ind  Alden 
through 
:n  its  be- 
on  Cap- 
ind  sui- 
ig  cere- 
late  in 
and  the 


BOSTOX  TO  PT.Y MOUTH. 


lioute  5. 


51 


ocoan  ((ilid  of  Cape  Cod  in  rlear  weather)  's  oHJoyed  fmin  Captain's  Hill.  Miles 
Standish,  u  veteran  of  tlie  Flanders  canipaiKiiH,  fame  over  witli  the  l'il;,'rims.  and 
was  made  tlie  hf>ad  of  tiieir  armirs  (consisting  of  12  men),  altlioiigli  he  did  not 
iii'long  t(t  their  -  liur  h.  lie  was  a  short  man,  very  lirave,  but  impetuous  and 
eholeric.  and  Ills  name  sunn  itcrame  a  terror  to  all  hostile  Imlians.  Ili>  is  tlie 
hero  of  a  Imautiliil  poem  in  niiii!  parts,  liy  Longfellow,  callid  "  Tlie  Courtship  of 
Alili-s  Stanilish." 

Ralph  I'artridgtf,  tli''  fhst  pastor  of  Duxbiiry,  "had  the  innoeenceuf  u  dovcnnd 
the  loftiness  of  au  eagle.     His  epitaph  is  '  Avoluvit.' "  —  Math kii. 

The  Stamlish  Ho\ise  is  on  the  harbor  some  distance  from  the  S. 
Dii.Khury  Station.  Its  still-water  bathing  is  good.  From  Duxbury  Tost 
Oliice  to  Plymouth,  by  the  main  road,  is  U  M.  At  Duxbury  is  the 
Anierieau  end  of  the  French  Atlantic  Telegraph. 

5.   Boston  to  Plymouth. 

Via  Old  Colony  Railroad,  ;}7.^  M.,  in  1^  hrs. 

Boston  to  S.  Braintree,  see  Route  3.  Stations,  S.  Weymouth^  N. 
Abiaijton  (('ulver  House),  AhingUm,  S.  Abhujbm  (Wheeler  House), 
the  last  three  stations  being  in  a  town  of  about  10,0(10  inhabitants, 
who  are  mostly  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes.  The  line  now 
ai>i)roaches  the  great  lake-strewn  forest  of  the  Old  Colony,  passing 
the  stations  of  X.  Jlansoii,  Hanson,  Halifax,  P/i/inpton,  and  Kings- 
ton (Patuxet  House,  with  daily  stage  to  N.  Carver).  The  train  now 
passes  along  the  W.  shore  of  Plymouth  Harbor,  with  Cai)tain*s  Hill 
(Duxbury)  prominent  on  the  1.  across  the  water. 

Plymouth,  Umpame,  or  Patuxet.  (Sanioset  House,  a  largo  and  comfortable 
liotel,  near  the  II.  II.  Rtation.     31.50  to  I?  2  a  day). 

Elizabeth,  Queen  of  England,  in  I.'i58-G2,  i)ut  into  operation  the  Acts  of  Su- 
jircmatiy  and  Uniformity,  and  the  Articles  of  Keligion,  sternly  forbidding  all  forms 
of  religious  worship  within  her  realm,  save  those  jirescribed  by  the  Chimdi  of 
Kiiglnnd,  of  which  she  was  the  head.  Ahiiost  simultaneously  a  sect  sprang  up, 
(hiiming  that  the  Anglican  Church  still  retained  many  of  the  errors  of  U(»man 
Cutlmlicism  ;  while,  in  opposition  to  the  Queen's  primacy  and  ecclesiastical  laws, 
tliey  mainUiined  that  the  church  was  spiritual,  governed  by  the  laws  of  Christ 
given  in  the  New  Testament,  and  separate  from  tem]ioial  affairs  and  independent 
of  earthly  sovereigns.  Hence  they  were  called  Separatists  (sometimes  Brown- 
ists).  They  were  imprisoned  and  martyred  by  the  government,  and  in  1598  many 
tied  to  Hollaml.  Churches  existed  at  Southwark  and  elsewhere,  but  the  true 
birthplace  of  the  Pilgrim  Church  (if  nut  at  Jerusalem)  was  at  the  deserted  "Manor 
of  the  Bishops  "  (of  Ytjrk)  at  Hcrooby.  Bancfoft,  the  new  primate,  redoubled  tho 
persecutions,  in  1002,  and  in  1G08  tho  church  at  Scrooby  ran  the  blockade  of  the 
English  coast,  and  went  to  Amsterdam.  In  lOOG  tho  Pilgrims  moved  to  Leyden, 
and  in  1G20  sailed  from  Delfthaven,  via  iS(nithampton,  for  America.  On  Sept. 
0,  the  "Mayflower,"  previously  driven  back  by  adverse  circumstances,  left  Ply- 
mouth in  England,  intending  to  reach  land  and  settle  near  the  Hudson  River.  By 
treacliery  or  otherwise  they  struck  tlie  continent  far  north  of  this  ])oint,  and  on 
the  21st  Dec,  1020,  the  Pilgrims  hmded  at  New  Plymouth.  Capt.  8mith  was 
severely  attacked  here  by  the  Indians  in  1014,  and  atandish's  ruile  forays  ou 
Cape  Cod  had  enraged  the  aborigines,  but  the  Wampanoag  tribe,  which  in  1610 
numbered  30,000  souls,  had  been  reduced  by  a  great  war,  followed  by  a  pestilence, 
to  a  remnant  of  300.  13y  the  latter  part  of  March,  44  Pilgrims  had  died,  and  then 
the  Sachem  Massasoit  made  an  alliance  with  the  dwindling  colony.  In  1622  a 
massive  structure  was  erected  for  a  church,  with  a  battlemented  i-oof  and  ord- 
nance, which  made  it  the  castle  of  the  village.     In  1621  and  1623  other  eompauiea 


62      liotile  5. 


BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH. 


w 


■\' 


\ 


I 


'« 


!l 


of  Pilji^.ijTns  rrossed  tlie  sea,  nftcrwliicli  the  colony  tlirovo  and  occupied  theneigli- 
boiin;^  lands.  In  March,  10l!l,  Saiuoset  an(l  Tisquantiun  came  in  and  told  thoin 
ul"  tlic  land  (the  latter  having  hucii  stolen  by  Hunt,  in  :iG14,  from  the  coast,  and 
soM  at  Malaga  as  a  slave).  In  KL'!,  the  lirst  cattle  ever  in  New  f]n}.'land  were 
landeil  hen^  and  'u  Mie  same  year  Plymouth  was  found  to  consist  of  \v>.  houses, 
surrounded  hy  a  h.>i,di  i)alisade  with  fortihed  gates.  ('an:iiiieus,  chief  of  the  Narra- 
gausetts,  sent  a  sheaf  of  arr')ws  bound  witli  a  rattlesnake's  skin,  to  t!(»v. 
IJr.Mlfonl,  as  a  token  of  hostility.  The  skin  was  filled  witli  iK)wder  and  shot,  and 
sent  hack  to  Canonicus,  wiio  understood  tiiis  grim  answer,  and  as  loTig  as  he  lived 
restrained  his  trilie  from  attack'  ;  the  colony.  As  one  of  the  United  Colonies, 
1'1\ mouth  bore  her  i)art  in  the  Indian  wars,  until  it  finally  joined  the  colony  of 
M.issachusetts  Bay,  in  lt)9'2. 

"  Methinks  I  see  itnow,  that  one,  solitary,  adventurous  vessel,  the  'Mayflower,' 
of  a  forlorn  hope,  fniighted  with  the  ])ros])e(!ts  of  a  future  state,  and  bound  acro.ss 
tii(>  uid<nown  sea.  I  'tehoM  it  |  .rsuing,  with  a  thousand  misgivings,  the  uncer- 
tain, the  tedious  v.iyage.  Sutis  rise  a;id  set,  and  weiks  and  months  j^ass,  and 
winter  surin'ises  them  on  'he  dee]!,  but  brings  them  not  the  sight  of  the  wi.shed- 
for  shore.  1  see  them  now  scantily  sui)i)lied  with  provisions,  cr'twded  almost  to 
siiiroeati(m  in  their  iil-storc.l  prison,  delayed  by  calms,  jnirsuinga  circuitous  route  ; 
and  now  driven  in  fury  befcu'e  the  raging  tempest  on  the  high  and  giduy  waves. 
....  Tlie  awful  voice. of  the  storm  howls  through  tlie  rigging.  TIk;  laboring 
hi.ists  seem  straining  from  their  base  ;  the  dismal  .sound  of  the  pumps  is  heard  ; 
tiie  ship  leai)s,  as  it  wci;;,  madly,  from  billow  to  billow  ;  the  ocean  breaks  and 
.settles  with  engulting  Hoods  over  the  floating  deck,  and  beats  with  deadening, 
sliiv(n-ing  weight  against  the  staggered  vessel.  I  see  them,  escaped  from  these 
]>erils,  ]iursuing  their  all  but  desjierate  undertaking,  and  lauded  at  List,  after  a  five 
months'  pao.sage,  on  the  ice-clad  rocks  of  I'lymouth,  weak  ai;d  weary  from  the 
^■>y''i{^*'i  pooi'ly  armed,  .  ,  .  without  shelter,  without  means,  surrounded  by  hos- 
tile tribes Tell  me,  man  of  military  science,  in  how  many  months  were 

tliey  all  swejit  away  by  the  'M  savage  tribes  of  New  England  ?  Tell  me,  politician, 
liow  long  did  this  Lihachvw  of  a  colony,  on  which  yc.ur  conventions  and  treaties  hail 
not  r.miled,  langni.sh  on  the  distant  co.ast?  ....  Is  it  possible,  that,  from  a  Vje- 
ginning  so  feeble,  so  frail,  so  worthy  not  so  much  of  idmiration  as  of  pity,  there 
has  gone  forth  a  progress  so  steady,  a  growth  so  wonderful,  an  expansion  so 
ani])le,  a  reality  so  importaVit,  a  promise,  yet  to  be  fulfilled,  so  glorious?"  —  Ed- 
warp  JtiVERKTT. 

See  also  Mrs.  Uemans'  inimitable  hymn,  bcginninjr, 

"  The  brcnking  wnvos  dnshed  hij.'h 
On  a  stern  und  mck-bouiid  t'oust. 

When  a  band  of  exiles  moored  their  bark 
Hy  the  wild  New  lliiglund  sliore." 

On  Court  St.  is  tlie  classic  *  Pilgrim  Hall,  in  front  of  which  i.s  a  rock 
ol  gray  sienitic  granite,  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence.  This  is  "the  cor- 
ner-stone of  the  Repuhlic,"  a  portion  of  the  rock  on  "vvhich  the  Pilgrims 
first  stepped  from  their  boats,  and  which  was  dra^wii  from  the  water- 
side in  1775. 

The  Pilgrim  Ilall  (opin  dailr)  contains  ''The  Lauding  of  the  Pilgrims, " 
a  largo  painting  of  much  interest  (13  x  IG  ft.),  and  nine  i)ortraits  ;  busts 
of  Daniel  Webster  and  John  Adams  ;  Governor  Carver's  chair  ;  sword, 
kc,  of  Miles  Standish  ;  the  gun-barrel  with  which  King  Philip  was 
lulled,  and  a  letter  from  King  Philip  ;  embroidery  by  Lorea  Standish ; 
and  a  great  number  of  rulios  of  tlie  early  colonists,  with  an  elegant  model 
of  the  monument  which  is  to  be, 

Th(i  principal  ledge  of  *  Forefathers'  Pvjck  is  on  Water  St.,  and  is 
covered  by  a  singular  edifice  (canopy)  of  granite,  in  whose  iittie  has  been 
2)l:iced  the  boi\es  of  several  men  who  died  in  the  winter  ot"  1620-1. 


!| 


'^mSHtfSW^y   HgiJftwfyg^   ■ 


BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH 


lioute  5.       53 


? 


t 


Town  Green  is  at  tlie  end  of  Alain  Street.  On  tno  site  of  the  present 
Gothic  Unitarian  Clmrch  older  churches  were  built  in  the  tirst  days. 
The  remarkably  homely  Church  of  the  Pilgrimage  (Cong.)  stands  near 
by.  Opposite  this  church  is  the  Town  Hall,  built  in  1749.  To  the 
r.  of  the  Uiiitarian  Church  is  the  path  to  the  *  Burying  Hill,  where 
many  of  the  Pilgrims  were  interred.  Ancient  and  moss-covered  tomb- 
stones cover  the  green  slopes,  with  here  and  there  more  pretentious  mon- 
n'iaents,  as  those  to  Gov.  Bradford,  Elder  Cushman,  and  others.  In 
1622,  the  embattled  church  was  built  on  this  hill,  with  six  cr.imon  on  its 
sheltered  flat  roof.  Every  man  brought  his  gun  and  anmiunition  to 
church,  and  sentinels,  on  a  tower,  watched  incessantly.  Tht  *  view  from 
Burying  Hill  is  fine,  embraciiig  the  harbors  of  Plymouth  and  Duxbury, 
Captain's  Hill,  Cape  Cod,  Manomet  Hills,  &c.  Leyden  St.,  the  first 
street  in  New  England,  runs  E.  from  Town  Square  to  the  water.  Near 
the  foot  of  Middle  St.  and  W".  of  the  canopy-covered  rock,  is  a  small 
green  space  called  Cole's  Hill,  where  re  buried  50  of  the  Mayflower 
company  (including  Gov.  Carver),  1620-21.  Near  the  Pilgrim 
Hall  are  the  ha!;Jsome  County  buuuings ;  and  on  Training  Green, 
near  the  High  School,  is  a  monument  to  the  town's  soldiers  who  died  in 
the  War  for  the  Union.  Behind  the  High  Scho(d  is  Watson's  HHl,  where 
Massasoit  appeared  in  Maich,  1621,  with  60  warriors,  and  concluded  a 
league  with  the  handful  of  Pilgrims  which  was  sacredly  kept  for  50  years. 
Billington  Sea,  one  of  the  two  hundred  ponds  which  are  in  the  vast 
Ply inouth  Forest  ("the  Adirondacks  of  Massachusetts"),  is  about  2  M. 
from  the  vill.lgo,  and  is  ih  M.  around.  About  3  M.  S.  of  Plymouth  is 
the  Clifford  House,  a  favorite  summer  resort.  S.  W.  (  "  Plymouth  i.s 
the  lofty  promontory  of  Manomet,  near  which  is  tlie  viUag  (hotel)  of 
Manomet  Ponds.  A  strip  of  sand  3  M.  long  forms  a  natural  breakwater 
before  the  town,  on  which,  in  Dec,  1779,  the  war-ship  "Gen.  Aniold" 
was  wrecked,  and  70  men  <'rozon  to  death  on  her  decks.  In  the  N.  part 
of  the  harbor  is  Clark's  Island,  where  the  Pilgrims  remained  Dec.  9th 
and  10th,  1620.  Beyond  are  the  prominent  points  of  Sacpiish  and  the 
G-^rnet,  on  the  latter  of  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

On  a  liigh  hill  near  the  Samoset  House  9  acres  of  laud  have  been  'nought,  and 
1,500  tons  of  granite  laid  as  foumhition  for  a  National  Monument  to  the  Fore- 
fathers. On  an  oetagonal  pcilestal  of  granite  40  ft.  higli,  will  st-iind  a  .statue  of 
Faith,  also  40  ft.  high  (the  "Havaria^'  at  Miuiich  is  42  ft.  high).  Her  right  hand 
is  uplifted,  and  her  left  hohls  a  Bible.  On  pedeslals  about  the  base  will  be,  four 
sitting  statues  repre.senting  the  cardinal  principles  of  the  Pilgrim  coiiniioiuvealth, 
—  Morality,  Law,  Education,  and  Freedom.  Euch  of  these  is  to  be  20  ft.  high, 
with  8  statues  in  niched  panels  by  their  thrones,  each  of  which  will  be  9  ft.  high. 
Historical  records  and  bas-reliefs  will  adorn  the  sides  of  the  i)edestal,  and  an  in- 
ternal stairway  will  lead  to  the  feet  of  Faith.  Statues,  pedestal,  aud^all,  are  t(j  bu 
of  granite. 


64       Route  6. 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


6.    Boston  to  Cape  God. 


¥. 


Via  Old  Colony  R.  R.,  Boston  to  Wellfleot,  106  miles,  in  4^-5  hours.  Fare, 
.$3.05.     Two  trains  daily.     Boston  to  S.  IJraintree,  see  Route  3. 

Station,  llolh^ook^  with  a  pretty  little  Victoria  Gothic  Town  Hall. 
Station,  /'■.  Stoufjhion,  after  which  the  line  pas.ses  through  a  district 
which  illustrates  the  poverty  oi'  the  American  mind  in  the  matter  of 
I'.aming  towns.  Four  towns,  each  containing  many  square  miles,  are 
named  respectively,  N.  Bridffewo.ter,  W.  IJridi/ewatf)',  E.  Jiridfjeu'citer, 
and  Bridgcwater.  Stations,  iV.  Brklgeioater  (Standi.sh  House),  Campcllo, 
Keith's,  E.  and  W.  Bridfjcioater. 

Bridgewater,  Sawtucket  (Hyland  House),  was  bought  of  the  Indians 
by  Miles  Standi.sh  in  ItJiS.  In  1710,  Hugh  Orr,  a  Scotchman,  erected  a 
trip-hammer  here,  and  in  1748  made  500  muskets  for  the  Province 
of  Massachusetts,  the  same  being  tije  fii.st  made  in  this  country.  Duruig 
the  Revolution,  he  made  great  numbers  of  iron  and  brass  cannon,  and 
cannon-ball.'H  for  the    ontinental  army. 

A  branch  railroad,  7  miles  long,  runs  from  Bridgewater  to  S.  Ahinritan, 
on  the  Plymouth  Branch  li.  R.  Stations,  Titicut  anf!  Middleboro  (No- 
masket  House),  a  prosperous  town  (of  about  ,5,000  inhabitants),  where 
several  railways  unite. 

Between  S.  Braintrce  and  Fall  River  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  has  two  divisions, 
eastern  and  v;e.sterr;,  several  mil  s  ajiart.  On  the  we;  t'>  u  division  (the  shorter 
of  the  two)  the  st  'tmboat  trains  run,  while  tin  ea.stem  ui^.  i.sion,  running  E.  of  S. 
from  Boston  to  jliddleboro,  hero  turns  sharply  to  the  8.  W.  to  Fail  River  and 
Newport.  From  Middleboro  to  Fall  River  by  tin  main  (eastern)  line  is  14  M., 
passing  stations  Tjikerilh',  Miirick's,  and  Assur.d.  At  Myriok's,  the  New  Bedford 
an<l  Taunton  R.  R.  crosses  tiie  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (Myric'k's  to  New  Bedford  in  ^ 
hr.).  A  railroad  runs  from  Middleltoro  to  T  :n:;ton  direct,  a  distance  of  10| 
M.  (fare  40  c),  i)assing  the  stations  Lir\eviUc,  C.'iace's,  E.  Tnnvton,  and  Weir.  3-4 
M.  S.  of  Mid(lki)oro  is  a  chister  of  great  ponds,  abounding  in  fish.  Asowamsett 
Pond  (Lakeville  H.tuse)  is  the  largest  Si:ci;t  of  fresh  water  in  the  State,  and  con- 
tains (5-8  square  miles.  On  its  shores  Capt.  Dermer  was  received  by  the  WaM- 
l)anoag  saclunns  in  IGIO,  and  here  the  anti-English  chief,  Corbitant,  revolted 
against  Massasoit,  in  1G'21,  and  seized  the  Plymouth  envoys.  Standish  promptly 
marchetl  forth,  fell  upon  Corbitant's  cam]t  b^'  niglit,  and  achieved  success  in  the 
lirst  warlike  o.xi'cdition  n-ade  from  Plymouth. 

The  Cape  C'  ■'■  Division  of  the  0.  0.  R.  R.  begins  at  Middleboro. 
Stations,  A'ocA*,  .S.  Middleboro,  and  TrcTiont,  or  W.Warclmm. 

From  Trcmont  thj  Fairhavcn  Branch  runs  to  New  Bedford  (16  M.),  passing  the 
stations  Marion,  Maltapoi!<ctt,  and  Fairhavcn.  3  M.  S.  of  Marion  station  (Old 
Landing),  passing  Sippican  village,  is  White  House  Beach,  fronting  on  Sippican 
Harbor.  3-4  M.  fron>  Marion  station  is  t  high  ]iromontory,  surrounded  on  three 
Bides  by  Buzzards  Bay  and  Wing's  Cove,  on  which  is  a  favorite  summer  hotel,  the 
Gieat  iiill  House.  Mattapoiselt  (Mattapoisett  House)  is  a  .5mall  village  near 
Buzzards  Bay,  with  fine  water-views  and  large  inland  forests.  The  fishing  in  the 
inlets  IS  fine. 

After  passing  Tremont  station,  on  the  Cape  Cod  R.  R.,  the  line 
passes  through  the  town  of  Wareham,  the  nortliern  inlets  of  Buzzards 
Bay  being  often  seen  on  the  r.     Stations,  S.  Wareham,  Wareham  (Ken- 


t 


i-   »' 


!^  ^ 


-/v^%J»t*se**w».-5Bfe««-'A^''»''^fl*''?»'^^ 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


Route  6.       55 


Fare, 


<l 


t 


driok's  Hotel),  E.  Wareham,  and  Cnhasset  Narrovs,  where  is  the  junction 
of  the  R.  R.  for  Falmoutli,  Martha's  Vineyard,  &c.  (See  Route  7.) 
Soon  after,  the  Straits  between  Buzzards  and  Buttermilk  Bays  are  crossed, 
and  then  follow  the  stations,  Monnment,  N.  S'duhnch,  W.  Sandicich, 
and  Sandwich.  "  The  Cape  extends  E.  from  Sandwich  35  M.,  and  thence 
N.  and  N.  W.  30  more,  in  all  Qd,  and  has  an  average  breadth  of  6  M." 
It  is  nearly  all  sand,  with  boulders  dropped  on  it  here  and  there.  Hitch- 
cock thinks  that  the  ocean  has  eaten  out  Boston  Harbor,  and  other  bays, 
and  bxiilt  Cape  Cod  of  tlie  minute  fragments.  A  thin  layer  of  soil 
reaches  as  far  as  Truro;  'n)ut  there  are  many  holes  and  rents  in  this 
weather-beaten  garment  not  likely  to  be  stitched  in  time  which  reveal 
the  naked  flesh  of  the  Cape,  and  its  extremity  is  completely  bare." 

It  is  believed  that  the  shores  of  Cape  Cod  are  the  Furdustrandas  (Wonder- 
Strands)  discovered  by  Thi>rliall,  tlie  Norsfinan,  in  the  year  1007.  ("When  they 
were  ready,  and  their  sail  hoisted,  Thorhall  san^' :  Let  us  return  where  our  peoj)le 
are.  Let  us  make  a  bird  (vessel),  alvilftil  to  lly  through  the  heaven  of  sand,  to  ex- 
l)lore  the  broad  traelv  of  ships  ;  wliile  warriors  who  impel  to  the  tempest  of 
swords,  who  praise  tiie  laud,  iniiabit  V»'ouder-Strauds,  and  cook  whales.")  In 
]ri24,  Verrazzani,  in  the  frigate  "  Dauphin,"  coasted  about  Cape  Cod,  which  is 
inobably  his  "  Cape  Arenas,"  and  in  15ii5,  the  Portuguese  mariner  Gomez,  explored 
and  mapped  much  of  southern  New  England.  The  first  Anglo-Saxon  in  New 
England  war,  Capt.  Gosnold,  who  coasted  and  named  Cape  Cod  in  the  year  1002, 
having  caught  many  codlish  thereabouts,  and  landed  at  dilferent  points. 

In  1G04,  Champlaiu  visited  this  locality,  and  named  it  Cap  Blanc  (White  Cape), 
because  the  sand  contrasted  so  with  the  darl;  rociis  of  the  northern  coasts.  A 
harbor  on  the  S.  E.  he  named  Mallebane,  which  name  still  clings  to  the  S.  E. 
Cape.  In  IGOi),  Hendrick  Hudson,  with  a  vessel  of  the  Dutch  E.  I.  Company, 
rediscovered  Cape  Cod,  naming  it  Ne\v  Holland,  and  found  a  mermaid  near  by, 
concerning  which  (or  whom)  he  gives  a  curious  account.  In  1614,  Capt.  John 
Smith  visited  the  Cape,  and  describes  it  as  "a  headland  of  high  hills  of  sand, 
overgrown  Avith  shrubby  pines,  hurts,  and  such  trash,  but  an  excellent  harbor  for 
all  weather."  Prince  Charles,  his  patron,  named  it  Cape  James,  but  the  name 
did  not  take.  About  this  time  tlu;  infamous  Capt.  Hunt  kidnapped  a  ship-load 
of  Indians  from  the  coast,  so  when  Harlow  landed  at  the  Ca]ie  late  in  1G14,  he 
was  attacked,  and  only  escapiid  (witii  loss)  by  cannonading  the  attacking  flotilla 
of  canoes.  In  1016,  a  French  ship  grounded  or  anchored  near  the  Cape,  was  car- 
ried by  boarding,  and  the  Indians  killed  all  on  board  savt;  four,  whom  they  sent 
far  and  wide  through  the  country  as  curious  trophies.  The  horrible  i)estilence 
which  immediately  after  passed  over  Massachusetts,  was  attributed  by  the  Indian 
doctors  to  tliis  fact.  In  1020,  the  vanguard  of  the  Pilgrims  appeared  in  one  of 
the  Capo  harbors,  and  erelong  many  villages  si)rang  uji  here.  In  1623,  the  blame- 
less chiefs,  Cawnacome,  Sachem  of  Manomet  (Sandwich),  Aspinet  of  Nauset 
(Chatham),  and  lyanough  of  Cummaquid  (Barnstable),  w.-re  witli  the  council  at 
Weymouth  when  Standish  made  his  attack.  They  escajied  and  hiil  in  the  swamps 
of  the  Cape,  where  they  soon  died  of  sorrow  and  privation,  au<l  too  late  it  was 
proven  that  they  were  perfectly  iunoceut.  Notwithstanding  their  unfavorable 
experiences  of  Christian  civilization,  the  Cape  Indians  passed  under  its  influence, 
and  soon  6  Indian  churches  and  IS  assemblies,  with  24  native  pastors,  were  num- 
bered there.  Conseciuently,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war  of  1675,  they  repudiated 
their  ancient  allegiance  to  King  Fliilip,  and  remained  faithful  to  the  colouists. 

Sandwich  (Central  House)  is  a  village  near  the  S.  edge  of  the  Pljmouth 
Forest,  and  distant  12  M.  from  Plymouth.  The  extensive  glass-works 
are  near  the  station. 

From  W.  jBa/vis^aWe  station  stages  run  to  Cotuit  Port,  "the  home  of 
gonial  .sportsmen,"  6-7  M.  distant,  on  the  S.   shore  of  the  Cape.     The 


56       Route  6. 


BOSTON  TO  CArp]  COD. 


m 


it- 


if., 


I' 


If; 


highlands  about  the  little  harbor  on  wliicli  the  village  is  situated  are 

partly  clothed  with  pine  woods  and  inter8i)ersed  with  many  fresli  ponds. 

The  Santiiit  House,  near  the  beaches  on  the  S,   shore,  is  much  visited  in 

summer.     Barnstable  is  a  quiet  village  with  the  county  buildings. 

On  Great  Neok,  in  Marshpee  (Massapee),  a  few  M.  W.  of  Cotuit  Port,  was  the 
chief  village  of  tlie  Cape  Indians  who  dwelt  on  this  reservation.  lu  l(j58,  Rieh- 
aril  Bourne  went  there  us  a  niissif»iiarv,  and  fnimed  a  clmrch  of  whieh  he  was 
I)a.stor  until  his  death  in  1(585.  Before  KiuK  Philip's  War  there  were  10,000 
Christian  Indians  in  New  England.  Many  of  these,  including  scores  of  tlic  Mas- 
sapees,  were  killed  tlghting  for  their  white  ])rethren,  or  else,  remaining  neutral, 
were  treated  pitihiswly  by  the  coluiu.sts.  Nearly  eveiy  man  of  the  Massapees 
.ioined  the  1st  Mass.  Reg.  in  1775,  and  but  few  returned.  fJideon  llawley  (Yale 
College,  1740)  preached  hen;  1758-1807.  In  ISO;^,  the  last  pure-blooded  Indian 
died,  8o  many  of  the  nuiu  died  in  the  War  for  Iiidept  udence,  that  negroes  .joined 
the  tribe,  an<l  it  is  now  a  eolleftion  of  Ind')-.\fri(  an  half-breeds.  In  18;i4,  in 
response  to  tlieir  "  Bill  of  Complaints  "  .signed  by  287  jiersons,  the  State  granted 
them  limited  powers  of  autonomy.  In  1850,  about  200  persons  were  left  on  the 
reservation. 

Yarmouth  is  coeval  with  Barnstable,  Near  it  is  a  favorite  Methodist 
camp-ground.  A  branch  R.  R,  runs  from  Yarmouth  to  Hyannis  (lya- 
nongh  Mouse),  the  point  of  departure  for  the  st?amcrs  to  Nantucket  (80 
miles).  Extensive  beaches  bordered  by  bluffs  covered  with  groves  are 
near  Hyannis. 

Stations,  S.  Yarmouth,  S.  Dennis,  not  far  from  Scargo  Hill,  the  highest 
land  on  the  Cape,  froni  which  a  noble  ocean  view  is  afforded.  Stations, 
JV,  Ilarv-ich,  Jlanoich  (Central  House,  Atlantic),  tb  nciont  home  of 
the  Satuck<.'t  Indinns. 

Bre ivsteii^CKtcn  House,  Union  House),  was  named  in  honor  of  Eider 
Brewster,  of  the  Mayflower  Pilgrims.  Large  and  singular  boulders  are 
found  here.  Many  sailors  and  captains  belong  in  this  town,  and  Grleavs 
(Higgins  House)  and  Enstham,  which  was  settled  by  the  Pilgrims  in  1644, 
\inder  the  Icid  of  Tlioma.s  Prince,  who  was  for  sixteen  years  govern- 
or of  Plymouth.  A  fortified  church,  twenty  ft.  square,  was  built,  an;i 
a  part  of  every  stranded  whale  was  by  law  reserved  for  the  ministry. 

At  Millennium  Grove  in  this  town  were  long  held  extensive  camp-meet- 
ings. The  line  now  passes,  on  the  E.,  the  broad,  sandy  plains  of  Nauset. 
Stations,  N.  Efisthxrm  (Nauset  House),  S.  WeUjt.eet,  Wcllfieei  (Holbrook's 
Hotel).  Wellfl«^et  Bay  opens  on  Cape  Co(i  Bay  (tlie  Baye  Blanche  of 
Champlain),  and  is  distant  from  Boston  l(>t5  M.  by  R.  R.  and  70  M.  by 
water.  This  village  lias  100  vessels  and  nearly  i,000  men  in  the  mackerel 
fishery.  The  railroad  ends  at  Welllieet,  and  stages  connect  with  it  for 
Provincetown,  although  it  is  said  that  late  in  1873  a  through  track  will 
be  laid.  North  of  Wellfieei  is  Truro,  ;i  large,  desolate  district,  on 
one  of  whose  beaches  the  Britisli  friga!'  "  Sunierset ''  was  wrecked  in 
1778,  and  480  men  made  prisoners.  Neat  Welltleet,  in  171S,  the  "  Wh.i- 
dah,"  a  pirate-ship  mounting  23  guns,  was  wrecked,  and  130  buccaneers 
were  drowned.     Truro  war,  .settled  in  HCX  under  the  name  of  j^arij;  r- 


4 


^ 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


Route  0.       57 


\ 


i 


field,  as  it  has  perhaps  the  most  fatal  coast  in  New  England.  Scores  of 
vessels  have  been  dashed  in  pieces  on  its  shore,  and  hundreds  of  lives 
have  been  lost.  There  is  scarcely  a  family  in  Truro,  or  indeed  on  the 
whole  Cape  E.  of  Barnstable,  but  has  lost  some  member  by  the  disasters 
of  the  sea.  Truro  lost  57  men  and  7  vessels,  and  Dennis  lost  28  men  in 
one  day  of  1811.  The  lofty  Fresnel  burners  of  the  famous  Highland 
Light  (at  Clay  Pounds  on  the  outer  shore  of  Truro)  shed  a  vivid  radiance 
over  leagues  of  rude  coast  and  deep  sea. 

Thorpjiu  walked  from  Orloiiiis  to  Provincetown  (soveral  days)  on  the  ocean  side 
of  til  is  "sand-bar  in  the  midst  of  the  sea,"  and  says  : — • 

"The  nearost  beach  to  us  on  the  cast  was  on  the  coast  of  Galicia,  in  Spain, 
whose  capital  is  Santiago,  thotigh  by  old  poets'  rcckoniiif,'  it  should  have  been 
Atlantis  or  the  ITesperides  ;  but  heaven  is  found  to  bo  farther  west  now.  At  first 
we  wore  abreast  of  that  jiart  of  Portiiijtal  eutro  Poiiro  e  iMino,  and  then  Galicia 
and  the  jiort  of  Pontevedro  opeiu-d  to  us  as  wc  walked  along  :  but  wo  did  not  en- 
ter, the  breakers  ran  so  higli.  Tliebold  headland  of  (.'ape  Flnisterre,  a  little  north 
of  cast,  jutted  toward  us  next,  with  its  vain  brag,  for  we  flung  l>ack,  —  '  Here  is 
Cape  Cod,  Cape  fjand's  beginning.'  A  little  indentation  towanl  the  north  — for 
the  land  loomed  to  our  imaginations  like  a  conuuon  mirage— we  knew  was  the 
Bay  of  Biscay,  and  we  sang : 

*  There  wo  Uiv  fill  next  day, 

In  tlie  liay  of  Biscay,  O  ! '" 

"A  little  south  of  oast  was  Palos,  where  Columbus  weighed  anchor,  and  farther 
yet  the  ]iillars  which  Hercules  sot  up." 

Truro  is  "a  village  where  its  able-bodied  men  are  all  ploughing  the  ocean 
together  as  a  common  field.  In  X.  Truro  the  women  and  girls  may  sit  at  their 
doors  and  see  where  their  husbamls  and  brothers  are  Imrvesting  their  mackerel 
15-20  M.  off,  on  the  sea,  with  hundreds  of  white  han-est- wagons." 

The  2nd  Mass.  Ctnitinental  Reg.  marched  from  this  E.  end  of  the  Cape,  and 
fought  through  the  Revolution. 

In  Nov.,  1020,  Standish  au'l  16  men,  "with  nuisket,  sword,  and  corslet," 
landed  at  l^ong  Point,  Provincetown,  chased  the  iiurcsisting  Indians  into  Truro, 
pillaged  many  graves,  and  carried  off  everything  jiort,"  ile.  They  were  attacked  in 
Kastham,  by  Indians,  but  the  arrows  fell  harnile.ssly  from  their  corsleti,  while 
the  nuisket-shot  told  on  the  half-dad  red  men. 

Provincetown  (Allstntm  House,  Central  House)  is  a  curious  ma- 
rine village,  distant  from  Boston  118  M.  by  land  and  55  M.  by  water 
(steamer  leaves  t!entral  Whaif,  Boston,  Wednesday  and  Saturday  morn- 
ings, returning  on  Monday  and  Thursday  mornings.     Fare  61-50). 

Tlie  Harbor  is  a  noble  one,  broad  and  clear,  and  is  the  favorite  refuge 
of  the  fishing  fleets.  The  energies  of  the  townsmen  are  devoted  to  the 
fisheries  —  of  mackerel,  cod,  and  sperm-whales,  in  wliose  pursuit  they 
search  the  wildest  and  nmst  distant  banks  and  bays  of  the  N.  Atlantic. 
The  village  lies  along  the  l)each  between  tlio  sea  and  the  desert,  —  an  in- 
habited beach,  where  fishernien  cure  and  store  their  tish,  without  any 
back  country. 

This  is  the  last  town  in  that  strange  region  where  the  peojde  "are  said  to  be 
more  purely  the  descendants  of  the  Pinitans  than  the  inhabitants  of  any  other 
part  of  the  State."  From  these  .shores  come  the  most  daring  and  skilful  cf 
Anierica?\  seamen.  "  Wherfi\er  over  the  vorld  you  see  the  stars  an<l  strijies  lloat- 
ing,  yon  may  have  good  hope  that  l-encath  iliera  some  one  will  be  found  who  vmn 
tell  you  the  ■Jomidings  of  Barnstable,  or  Wellt>pt,  or  Chathara  Harbor."     "  Caj  e 


1  ', 


II 


•    -I 
•J 

I 

>.  1 


58       Route  7.      BOSTON  TO  MARTHA'S  VINFA'ARD 

Cod  ia  tlip  l)arc  and  1)pik1p(1  nrin  of  Mass.ipTinsetts  ;  the  shonldf-r  is  at  Buzzards 
Bay  ;  the  flhovv,  or  crazy-lMHn;,  at  Cajits  Mak-bane  ;  the  wrist  Truro,  and  the 
sandy  fist  at  Pr'>vin'etown,  beiiind  wliich  the  iState  stands  on  e.r  guard,  with 
I'cr  i>ark  to  thr  ( Jroen  Mts.,  and  linr  feet  jdanted  on  the  floor  (<  Mie  (Jcean,  lil<e 
an  atlilete, --jirotectin;,^  lier  Bay,  boxing;  with  N.  K.  storms,  and,  .  m  r  and  anon, 
heaving  uji  iier  Atlantic  adversary  fiom  tlie  lap  of  earth,  ready  to  thrust  lur- 
ward  her  other  fist,  whieh  keeps  guard  the  while  upon  her  breast  at  Cai)e  Ann." 

The  era  of  constitutional  government  dawned  upon  the  world,  when,  on  Nov. 
11,  1C20,  the  storm-tossed  Mayflower  anchored  in  Provineetown  Harbor.  Here, 
"on  the  bleak  shores  of  a  barren  wilderness,  in  the  midst  of  desolation,  with 
the  blast  of  winter  bowling  around  them,  and  surrounded  with  dangei-s  in 
their  most  awful  and  ai>iialling  forms,  the  I'ilgrims  of  Leydeu  laid  the  foundations 
f>f  American  liberty."  While  the  Mayflower  lay  in  this  harbor,  that  eelebratrd 
C'oini»act  was  drawn  up  and  signed,  whicli  long  governed  i'lymouth  and  her  de- 
pendencies, and  of  which  J.  Q.  Adams  says  :  "This  is,  perhaps, the  only  instance 
in  liuman  history  of  that  positive  original  social  compact  which  si>eculative 
philosoi)hers  have  imagined  as  the  only  legitimate  source  of  government."  This 
solenni  compact  (given  below)  was  signed  by  41  men  (of  whom  21  died  in  the  next 
foiu'  months),  17  of  whom  had  their  wives  with  them,  the  remaining  43  persons 
being  young  ])eo))le  and  (diildren. 

"  In  the  name  of  God,  Anu'u.  We,  whose  names  are  underwritten,  the  loyal 
subjects  of  our  dread  sovereign  lord.  King  James,  by  the  grace,  of  God,  of  Great 
Britain,  France,  and  Ireland,  King,  defender  of  the  faith,  &c.,  having  undertaken, 
for  the  glory  ol  God,  and  advancement  of  the  Christian  faith,  and  lionor  of  our 
king  and  country,  a  voyage  to  i>lant  the  first  colony  in  the  northern  parts  of  Vir- 
ginia, do,  by  these  juesents,  solemnly  and  mutually,  in  the  i)reseiu-e  of  God  and 
of  one  another,  covenant  and  combine  ourselves  together  into  a  civil  body  politic, 
for  our  better  ordering  and  presei"'ation,  and  furtheraTice  of  the  ends  aforesaid  ; 
and  by  virtue  hereof  to  eiact,  cci  -ititute,  and  frame  .-luch  just  and  equal  laws, 
ordinances,  acts,  constitutions,  and  oilices,  from  time  to  time,  as  shall  be  thought 
most  meet  and  expedient  for  the  general  good  of  the  colony;  unto  which  we 
promise  all  due  sulimission  and  obedience.  In  '-vitn.iss  whereof  we  iiave  hereun- 
der inscribed  our  names,  at  Cape  Cod,  the  11th  of  Novend)er,  in  the  year  of  the 
reign  of  our  soverign  lord,  King  James,  of  England,  France,  and  Ireland,  the 
ISth,  and  of  fScotland  tlie  54th,  Anno  Uomini,  1G20." 


J 


^■i 


»•   '! 


I     i 
t 


7.  Boston  to  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantacket. 

Via  Old  Colony  R.  R.  and  Steamers.  To  Martha's  Vineyard  80  M.,  in  3J-4 
hours. 

New  Yorlc  to  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantucket.  To  Fall  River  by  steam- 
boat (Route  li),  thence  to  Myrick's  (not  by  the  steamboat  train,  but  lafcr)^  Thence 
to  New  Bedford,  and  Irom  there  bv  steamboat  to  Martha's  Vineyard  (in  all,  225 
M.). 

Boston  to  Cohasse.t  Narrows  see  Ronte  6.  After  Cohasset  NaiTOivs,  the 
line  runs  due  S.  for  IS  M.,  on  the  E.  shore  of  Buzzards  Bay,  passing  sta- 
tions, N.  Falmniith  (near  which  is  Pocasset,  abounding  in  shell-fish,  with 
the  Red-Brook  House  and  Bay  View  Cottage, )  W.  Falmouth,  and  Fal- 
mouth, a  quiet  old  port,  which  had  "  kept  on  the  back  side  of  the  Cape, 
and  let  the  centuries  go  by  "  until  1872,  when  the  railroad  aroused  it. 
Near  the  village  on  the  S.  E.  are  Falnioutli  Heights,  where  a  conijiany  of 
Worcester  men,  in  1870,  bought  120  acres  of  land  (with  two  small  lakes, 
several  groves,  and  a  mile  of  beach),  to  be  cut  up  into  lots  for  a  summer 
village.  Tower's  Hotel,  100  ft.  long  (opened  1871),  fronts  on  Vineyard 
Sound,  with  a  view  of  Martha's  Vineyard  from  its  lofty  position.  Still- 
water bathing  on  the  beach.     A  R.  R.  Station  will  probably  be  made  near 


i 


V-.- 


*?*"'»'  ">'^J)9!»5<i(Sl-ES-T«S3' 


AND  NANTUCKET. 


lioulc  7.       59 


3^4 


s,  the 
sta- 
with 
Fal- 
Cape, 
d  it. 
iiy  of 
;ikes, 
nier 
yard 
Still- 
near 


\ 


the  Heights,     Tlie  last  station  is  Wood's  Hole,  whence  the  steamer  car- 
ries passengers  across  the  Sound  (7  M.)  to  Martha's  Vineyard. 

Martha's  Vineyard. 

*  Sea-Foam  House,  a  new  and  sninptuoua  hotel,  gas-lighted,  steam-heated,  with 
elevator,  biliiard-roon),  &c.,  acconiniodatos  250  guests.  >i\.bO  per  day.  *  Iligh- 
land  House.  On  Circuit  Avenue,  in  Oak  Blufl's  Village,  are  several  good  hotels, 
on  the  Euro])ean  i)lan  ;  Baxter  House,  Pawnee  House,  Central,  Island,  &o. 

RcHtaurants  at  tlie  Baxter  and  Pawnee  Houses,  &c. 

Pleasure- Boats  at  the  yea-Foam  Hotel. 

8ea-batlis  at  the  bathing-houses,  on  Circuit  Avenue  beyond  Ocean  Park 
(30  c.). 

In  May,  1G02,  Capt.  Gosnold  coa.stcd  the  island  on  the  H.,  and  landed  on  a  bar- 
ren islet  (No  Man's  Land)  to  the  S.  W.  which  he  named  Martha's  Vineyard.  He 
then  landed  on  this  i.sland  (then  callcil  Nope),  an<l  foiuid,  in  S.  Iv  Chilmark,  deer 
and  all  kind  of  game,  .springs  and  a  lake  of  pure  fresh  water,  four  kinds  of  ber- 
ries in  profusion,  and  trees  loaded  with  fruitful  vines.  Probably  then,  or  dur- 
ing his  .stay  at  Cuttyhunk  (over  three  weeks)  tlie  name  was  transf(;rred  from  No 
Man's  Land  to  its  jiresent  posse.s.sor.  The  name  is  thought  to  have  l>een  given  in 
honor  of  some  friend  of  the  Captain's,  or  else  for  the  lady  of  some  one  of  his 
l)atrons.  (A  newsiiajier  (lorrcspondent  states  that  the  ohlest  inhabitant,  who 
owned  these  isles,  gave  them  to  his  daughters  ere  he  died.  Rhoda  took  Rhode 
I.sland,  Elizjibeth  took  the  ishin'l  since  uamed  for  her,  Mavthn  took  and  named 
Martha's  Vineyard,  and  as  for  the  remaining  island,  Nan-took-it.  The  legend  is 
interesting,  but  cannot  Ix'  traced  back  fartlu'r  than  the  year  1870.)  Fnun  this 
island  and  the  neighboring  main,  Gosnold  antl  Pring  (l()0;i)  got  laixe  cargoes  of 
sassafras,  then  esteemed  a  sovereign  specific  in  Europe.  In  1614,  Capt.  Hunt 
stole  27  Indians  at  Eastham.  on  Cape  Cod,  aiul  sold  them  as  slaves  at  Malaga,  for 
•S  100  each.  One  of  them,  Epeiiow,  was  carried  to  r.ngland,  wliere  the  sly  fel- 
low told  of  vast  gokl-mines  on  this  island.  A  .ship  was  sent  over,  at  great  ex- 
pense, with  Epenow  to  show  the  place,  but  as  soon  as  he  saw  the  sho7>-,  he  leaped 
over,  swam  to  land,  and  was  not  s«?eu  *i):.<un  until  Cai't.  Dernier  landed  here  in 
1()19.  In  M  dashing  attack  couducticd  Ny  Epenow,  the  Cai>tain  and  many  of  his 
men  were  killed  and  wounded.  In  lii-^",  Thwuat>  Ma.}  In'w,  Governor  of  the  Islands 
by  grant  from  the  Earl  of  Stirlji^;,  settle*!  at  Edgartown.  The  lordship  of  the 
isles  remained  in  the  Mayhew  -tnnly  from  M>41  to  1710,  dnxing  which  time  the 
kindness  of  these  men  won  tV  ■^carts  of  tlie  inatiAcs.  The  Mnyliews  were  all 
missionaries,  and,  learning  the  lii«iian  language,  i«reachc<l  Avith  sik  li  su<'cess  that 
Christian  ^illages  arose  all  over  the  islanil.  During  King  Pliiliji's  War,  the  con- 
verts remained  trtie,  ami  guarded  the  shores.  Altout  KiGO,  some  Qii  kei-s  landwl 
here  calling  the  Purit.iu  pastors  "i)nests  of  Baal,"  bui  tlie  Indians  so<.ii  drove 
tiiein  off.  Gookin  visited  the  i.sland  in  1674,  and  found  six  towns  of  Christian 
Indians,  "  a  very  fruitful  Vineyard  unto  the  Lord  (if  Hosts."  For  a  century  the 
Indians  slowly  dwindled,  and  the  coasting  vessels  began  to  frerpient  Holmes'  Hole 
in  yearly  increasing  -lumbers.  In  1778,  i.ord  Gray  (who  defeated  Wayne  at  Paoli) 
with  a  British  force,  destroyed  a  large  immlier  of  vessels  in  the  Hole.  In  1S3.'>,  '.> 
tents  were  pitihed  at  the  present  Camp-Grounds,  and  the  first  camp-meeting  on 
the  island  was  held. 

The  Wesleyaii  Grove,  or  Camp-Meeting  Ground,  is  near  the  Sea  View 
House  and  is  laid  out  "in  gracefully  curved  streets,  grass-paved  and  crowded 
Avitk  small  but  vigorous  trees.  Near  Trinity  Park,  a  wide  lawn,  is  the 
great  tabern.ic.le  tent  160  by  120  ft.  wiiich  can  .shelter  5,000  persons. 
This  is  the  centre  of  intense  excitement  during  the  meetings  in  late 
Augiist,  Avhen  from  20,000  to  2.'i,000  ])eople  are  gathered  here,  and  emi- 
nent Methodist  preachers  address  them.  Lake  Anthony  borders  the  N. 
and  W.  of  the  ground,  and  beyond  it,  on  the  high  bluffs  toward  East 
Chop  Light,  the  "Highlands"  have  been  laid  out  under  the  influence  of 


'  >.' 


i   ." 


i7 


60      Route  7.       BOSTON  TO  MARTHA'S  VINEYARD 

the  Methodists.  On  the  E.  and  S.  of  tlie  Camp-Ground  is  the  village  of 
Oak  Bluffs,  laid      t  in  18(58,  on  hhiffs  30  ft.  high  fronting  Vineyard  Sound. 

Among  the  oiuv  groves  here  are  hundreds  of  Swiss  and  Gothic  cottages, 
resembling  large  bird-houses,  bright  and  clean  and  cheerful.  On  a  hill 
near  the  centre  is  a  curious,  many-sided  Muscovite  chapel,  which  is  used 
often  but  floats  no  denominational  flag.  It  is  said  that  some  come  to  Oak 
Bluffs  ''wlio  know  and  care  nothing  for  Jerusalem  or  its  former  inhabi- 
tants," wherefore  strict  police  rules  aie  here  enforced. 

The  steamer  runs  to  Edgartown  daily,  and  a  fine  road,  6  -  8  M.  long, 
leads  there.  The  village  of  Edgartown  (Ocean  House,  Vineyard  House) 
was  founded  in  1G47  by  Gov.  Mayhew,  and  is  at  present  the  cai)ital  of 
Dukes  County.  It  has  a  fin(!  harbor,  sheltered  by  Chai»paquiddick  Island, 
and  possesses  a  small  maiine  museum. 

10  M.  from  Oak  BIufl«  is  South  Beach,  where  tlie  Atlantic  rolls  in 
grandly  after  a  storm. 

By  walking  to  the  East  Chop  Light,  a  view  is  gained  of  Holmes'  Hole, 

or  Vineyard  Haven,  one  of  the  most  famous  harbors  on  the  coast,  where, 

in  seasons  of  stonn,  hundreds  of  vessels  take  shelter  under  the  lofly  bluffs. 

Through   Vineyard  Somid  passes  the  vast  and  unceasing  ])rocession  of 

commerce  fjonj  New  York  and  Southern  New  England  to  Boston  and 

the  East. 

20-25  M.  S.  W.  of  Oiik  BliifTs  is  Oaylieacl,  noar  whicli  is  tlie  Devil's  Den,  a 
Willi  H|Mil  wlicn^  tlic  (lid  Iiuliiiii  IriHlllfiiiiH  Hiiy  tli.'it  the  gidiit  M();,lini»  lived,  wlio" 
nillgiit  wliiilrs  fiiiil  roiistcfl  tlicm  on  troos  whicli  lie  lore  up  by  llif'  rmita.  He 
nielanioritliosnl  IiIh  cliiitlrcn  iiilu  llsli,  aiid,  on  Ills  wife's  Iniiu-nUng,  lie  tluvw  licr 
ii)  MccoiincI,  wliirt!  hIii'  dwelt  iiiid  l<'vicd  (■(iiihllHiliinri  on  nil  who  passed  tho 
rocks,  until  kIic  lit'irti'lr  licciiiin  a  rocli.  'I'licii  Miislnili  di,'i(i|i|ic  ircd  (Voiii  hinnan 
sight  and  laidwli'dge.  (lay  Ib'iid  is  "  (ho  must  rcnmikalih  iiiitnial  ruiiosity  in 
Now  Kii»lfUul."  Tim  s(Nl  view  iiimi  the  iifditlwHiHH  Ih  ur/ind.  "Never  since  I 
Htood  on  Tablo  Uiu'U  hiWc  1  seen  a  sigh!  sn  gland  mh  thlH."  (hHFHAU  Twioom, 
AboTit  this  i)V(>iiiontoiy  several  score  of  halrlireed  Indians  live  a  straMgc  wuHfUU'tt 
life.  The  rcniaiKable  clills  by  the  sliore  havi  been  closely  stndicd  by  f'rof  //it'h- 
cock  and  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  the  latter  describing  thoni  as  "the  lofty  cliffs  of  Gav- 
hoad,  more  than  2W  II  hit;ii,  where  the  highly  inclined  tertiary  strata  are  g.iyly 
colored,  sonic  consisting  oi  light  red  clays,  others  of  white,  yellow,  and  gr*en, 
and  Houm  n|'  black  lignite." 

Nantuoket 

is  iJS  -  no  M.  from  Martha's  Vineyard,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  daily 
steamer.  After  leaving  the  Vineyard  astern,  the  islands  of  Miiske^^  and 
Tnckemuck  are  seen  in  the  S.,  and  near  them  the  low  shores  of  W.  Nan- 
tucket. Tlie  town  of  Nantucket  presents  a  fine  apy/carance  from  the 
water,  being  built  on  hills.  Hotels  — Ocean  House,  $2.50-3.00  (occu- 
pying the  old  mansion  of  one  of  the  marine  aristocracy),  a  comfortable 
hotel,  famous  for  its  chowders  ;  and  the  Adams  House. 

The  Indian  tradition  is  that  the  Great  Spirit  was  once  smoking,  when  he  partly 
filled  his  pipe  with  sand.  When  tlie  mixed  remains  were  emptied  from  the  pipe 
into  the  sea,  they  formed  the  Island  of  Nantucket.     Its  name  is  said  to  be  an 


. 


4 


5.iJS'J?^'W'  ■'"■l:-  ^JSrtSift'lV^^SSflfec'Jf^ 


a  daily 

■^  and 

.  Nan- 

■Dm  the 

(occu- 

brtable 


partly 
the  pipe 
to  be  an 


AND  NANTUCKET. 


Route?.       61 


«i 


Iiiilian  iiKxlifuation  of  Nautikoii,  a  name  left  by  the  Nnrsomon  who  vialted  it  in 
tliu  lltli  century-  The  best  iiuthority  i)ronounce.s  it  ;i  (Mirriiiition  of  an  Imliau 
v/oi'il  iiieanin.;  "  lar  away."  It  is  called  Natocko  on  tlie  map  of  IO.'U).  It  wa^ 
Yi..iti'(l  liy  Gusnold  in  1(102,  at  wliieli  time  about  l.TioO  Indians  were  here,  and  the 
iriland  was  covered  witli  oaks.  In  IGOl,  Chainplain  and  i'outrincourt  landed  hero 
.".nd  remained  several  <lays,  for  the  relief  of  those  men  of  their  command  who 
liad  Ijeen  wounded  in  a  battle  with  the  Indians  at  Chatham.  Weary  and  dis- 
cpirited,  they  eea.sed  their  e.\j)lorations  here,  and  returned  to  Port  Royul,  naming 
llii'sr  sad  sliores  "Isle  Dontcnsc."  In  1041,  Mayhcw  was  made  Governor  of 
the  Islands,  his  sway  extending  here.  In  lO.')!*,  he  deeded  j},  of  tlu!  island  to  ten 
men  for  .i::iO  and  two  beaver  hats,  and  one  family  moved  tliere,  there  being  then 
7i'()  friendly  Indians  on  Nantucket. 

In  l(iGr>  King  Philip  visited  his  iteoplo  here,  and  in  l(i71  the  town  was  ineor- 
jtorated  (at  Maddecpiet,  5-()  .M.  W.  from  the  prestnit  town),  and  in  1G72  moved  to 
its  present  i»laee.  In  1072  the  llrst  whale  was  taken.  In  1G7:{  the  town  was  called 
'herburne  by  the  New  York  CJovernor,  in  whose  domain  it  was  until  16i)H  (the 
name  was  retained  till  17!)j).  The  701)  English  had  no  i  hurch  or  ]>astor,  though 
the  Indians  had  four  churches.  A  white  church  was  l\>rmeil  in  1711.  In  17o5  -0 
1»  whaling-sloojis  were  sunk  or  captured,  and  l)ut  few  men  of  their  crews  ever  re- 
turned. In  1704,  there  were  '},'2i!0  whites  on  the  island  ;  and  a  pliigne,  the  same 
year,  swci)t  off  j}  of  the  Indians,  leaving  but  1.'50.  1,000  Nantucket  men  died  in 
the  Continental  Army.  In  1784  the  iiopnlation  was  larger  than  it  is  now.  In 
1S21,  7S  sliii)s  and  81  smaller  vessels  were  owned  here,  ami  most  .  engaged  in 
whaling.  Tin;  last  Indian  died  in  1S22.  Notwith.standin,!j  devastating  lires  in  the 
town,  Nantucket  in  1840  had  9,712  inhabitants. 

The  town  (100  huUdings)  wa.s  l)urnc'd  down  in  1846,  and  tlie  .same  year 
the  whaling  Inusiness  began  to  decline,  until  now  there  is  Init  one  small 
vessel  engaged  in  it,  and  in  the  to\,-n  which  has  houses  for  10,000  people 
there  are  but  about  4,200.  The  houses  are  of  a  quaint  old  style,  with 
platforms  on  the  roofs  (whence  to  watch  the  ships  conung  in).  Tlie  North 
C!hurch  was  the  first  on  the  island,  and  was  built  in  1711.  It  is  still  used 
by  the  same  society  as  a  vestry,  and  its  oaken  timbers  are  hard  as  iron. 
\  M.  from  the  Ocean  House,  on  Centre  St.,  is  a  small  house  which  was 
built  in  1GS2.  The  hospitality  of  the  old  families  of  Nantucket  is  famous, 
and  its  churches  and  schools  are  numerous.  Many  houses  have  been 
taken  down  and  shipped  away,  Imt  of  late  real  estate  is  rising,  as  city 
men  are  securing  summer  homes  here.  Maiii  St.,  at  the  head  of  which 
is  thfc  old  I'aci/ic  Bank,  has  the  shops  of  the  town  (shells  and  marine 
i'^mo%\i'n»  may  be  bought  here),  and  is  a  wide,  deserted,  grassy  street  lead- 
ing to  thfe  ii^i^ads  of  silent  and  decaying  wharves.  The  low,  sanily  beach 
which  ^pjteltew  the  liarl>or  stretches  N.  W.  8-9  M.  to  Oreat  Point,  leav- 
ing a  wide  and  (jui"t  lagooii  between  it  and  the  islaml.  At  the  Athenaeum 
i»  a  public  hi>r»ry  aed  a  jiiU>/eum  of  marine  curiosities  and  relics  of  the 
<Ad«r  days  of  Nmilit^lftet/  The  Squantum  is  a  peculiar  institution  of  the 
ialand,  l*;ing  an  irrfvrwial  j/icnic  on  the  beach-sands,  where  the  dinner  is 
made  of  fimh  or  otJier  »pfAh  of  tlie  sea.  Excursions  to  the  fishing  grounds 
are  managed  by  veteran  skippers,  who  let  tliemselves  and  their  boats 
cheaply.  There  are  riiks  to  the  ancient  districts  on  the  W.  shore,  to  the 
beaches  on  the  S.  shoie,  and  to  Siascon.set.  Siasoonset  (Atlantic  House) 
is  8  M,  S.  of  E.  from  tlie  town,  and  (ionsists  of  a  cluster  of  cottages  on  a 
high  bank  flouting  tlie  ocean.     Surf-ljatiilng  here  is  safe  only  when  the 


G2       nouleS. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOllK. 


'1 


,   i. 


>  t 


'■'  I 

■:  I 
{  ' 


batliers  use  ropeH,  as  tlie  shore  desceiuls  rapidly.  1  M.  N.  of  Siasconset 
is  Siiiikoty  Ili'ud,  where  a  powerful  Frt'siul  light  is  elevated  on  a  far-view- 
ing IjlutriH)  tt.  high.  1  M.  N.  of  Siinkoty  Heu.i  is  the  I'eantiful  Sesacacha 
Pond,  of  pure,  sweet  water  and  ahounding  in  fish  (small  inn  on  the  shore). 
In  1()7(>  a  village  was  built  on  this  jjond  and  remained  for  140  years  ;  but 
its  last  house  was  torn  down  in  1820.  Most  of  the  island,  over  which 
rambles  may  bo  made,  consists  of  high,  breezy,  sea-viewing  plains,  where 
but  few  fences  or  luMises  are  seen,  and  which  "the  traveller  will  call 
downs,  prairies,  or  i)ampas,  as  he  happens  to  come  from  England,,  the 
West,  or  Buenos  Ayres." 

8.  Boston  to  New  York. 

Via  Boston  an<1  Piovidence  II.  K.,  and  Shore  Linn  to  New  York  (in  8  hrs.),  or 
Ijy  steamer  troui  I'rovi'l^nce,  or  by  steamer  from  Stouington  (in  12-  13  Ins.) 

The  train  leaves  the  .station  in  Boston  (PI.  29),  (on  Pleasant  St.,  at  Iho 
foot  of  the  Comn)on),  and  passes  the  suburban  stations,  Ruxhnry,  Jamaica 
Plain,  and  Hyde  Park,  by  licadcille  (wheie  during  the  war  for  the 
Union  the  State  had  a  vast  camj)),  to  Canton,  (Massaj)oag  House, 
Poukapuug  House),  a  large  manufacturing  town.  Canton  was  the  seat 
of  a  large  Indian  village,  wliere  the  Ajjostle  Eliot  was  wont  to  preach, 
and  in  1845  several  imre-blooded  Indians  remained.  From  Blue  Hill 
(635  ft.  high),  E.  of  the  village,  is  gained  a  line  *  view  of  Boston  and  its 
harbor,  the  ocean,  and  many  busy  villages. 

Commodore  Downes,  who  eonnnanded  tlio  Essex,  Jr.,  wlien  Porter  swept  the 
Pacific,  was  enKUf^ed  in  tlie  Tripolitan  War,  and  in  1815  caiitured  tlie  Algerian 
frigate  "  Nashouda,"  was  Imihi  at  Canton.  His  son  connnanded  the  gunboat 
"  He'  Ml  "  and  the  monitor  "  Xahant,"  in  the  War  for  the  Union. 

Near  a  massive  granite  viaduct  ((500  ft.  long,  03  ft.  liigh),  in  this  town,  the 
Htoughton  Branch  11.  U.  leaves  the  main  line,  running  4  M.  to  8:oughton,  on  the 
Old  Colon}-  U.  R. 

/S/iarow(t'obb's Tavern)  is  in  a  hilly  and  picturesque  manufacturing  town. 
E.  Foxhoro',  Mansfield  (Eagle  Hotel),  whence  a  railroad  runs  thi'ough 
Nvrton  and  Taunton  to  New  Bedford  (Route  9).  W.  Mansfield,  Attle- 
bvrouyh,  a  considerable  manufacturing  town  (jewelry,  &c.),  Bodyeville, 
Jlebronrille,  and  Paivtucket,  where  the  line  enters  the  State  of  Ehode 
Island. 

Fawtucket  (Pawtucket  Hotel,  Park  House)  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody 
action  in  1G76.  Capt.  Pierce,  with  70  men,  was  driven  back  to  the  rivei= 
by  the  Indians,  and  his  party  was  fairly  showered  with  arrows.  When 
help  came,  not  one  nuin  was  living.  At  present,  Pawtucket  is  the  princi- 
pal thread  manufactory  in  America,  and  steam  fire-engines,  rope,  braid, 
&c.,  are  made  here.  The  Bunnell  Manufacturhig  Co.  has  3(j  buildings, 
and  prints  22,500,000  yards  of  calico  yearly.  The  Pawtucket  Tack  Co. 
makes  360,000,000  tacks  yearly,  and  35,000,000  spools  are  made  here 
every  year. 


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Providence. 

Providence   (Hty   Hotel,   ^4-4.50  a  day,    Aldrich    Housf:   Central 

HottJ,  G-lO  Cuiiul  St.,  European  plan),   is  the  sect^nd  city,  ui  wealth 

and  popul.ilion,  of  New    Eui^iand,  and  a  .scuii-capital  of  Rhode  Island. 

It  is  beautifully   situated  on   hills  at  the  head  of   Narra^Musett   Bay, 

a  cove  of  wliich  lies  far  in  the  city  and  is  surroundetl  hy  promenades. 

The  view  of  the  city  IVoni  the  Bay,  or  from  the  heights  E.  of  the  river,  isi 

very  i»lefi.sing.     The  Cliina  trade  was  once  largtdy  enjoyed  l)y  Providence, 

but  since  its  loss  the  energies  of  the  citizen,  li.vt'.  turned  to  manul'actures, 

and  now  large  jewelry,  iron,  stove,  and  loiomutivc  works  are  kept  going. 

The  Corliess  engint-s,  the  Peabody  ritlcs,  the  Gorham  silver-ware,   Perry 

Davis's  Pain-lviller,  and  millions  of  cigars  are  made  here.     44  banks  take 

care  of  the  money. 

Provi(U;ncfi  was  founded  and  named  by  Roper  Williams,  who  w  is  banished  f^'oni 
M;iM  viclmsi'tts  in  lO:!'!,  for  his  advaiiccil  idt-as  rebilivi'  lo  Ciiurch  and  iStatf.  Ho 
was  horn  in  Wales,  l,')'.i',t,  cducattMl  ,it  Pfnihroisi!  Colk'Lit',  Caiiibri(l;,'t',  and  pp  ached 
for  some  time  at  Salem,  Mass.  .\fter  his  o.xile  he  .settled  at  Seelconii,  whnice  he 
was  .soon  warned  away  l)y  the  Gnvcrnor  of  I'lymouth.  In  a  eanoo,  with  five 
companions,  he  droppe<l  down  the  river,  until,  in  itassini^  a  eove  (near  tlie  present 
India  St.  Bridge),  he  was  liaileil  l»y  .some  Indians  with  the  words,  "  What  eheer, 
Netopy  "  (friend).  He  landed  in  tliis  fuvn  on  tin' eelebraled  What  Clie^r  Iloek, 
and  then  eoisted  around  to  the  mouth  of  Providciiec  River,  where  he  lamleil  a  I 
remained.  Tliis  was  in. June,  lUW.  Soon  after  he  visited  theHaehem  L'anr)nifus(on 
Canonieut  Island)  and  received  a  grant  of  tlie  land  liereal»outs.  In  10.'>'.>  Williams 
became  a  Baptist,  ami  in  ltt4M  -  t  went  to  Kiigland,  and  got  a  charter  I'nr  the  new 
colony.  In  king  Philip's  War,  every  lionse  l)etween  Stonington  and  iwidgewater 
(save  Providenet)  was  destroyed,  and  the  little  eolony  was  onee  liereely  atttieked, 
and  lost  .'50  housi  In  the  royal  census  of  17.'50,  Provide!, 'C  had  :'>,'.»l(i  inhabitants. 
De  Warville  visitnl  it  in  1788,  and  reported  it  " deeaytd,  and  in  the  silence  of 
death."    In  ISOO,  it  liad  7,014  inhabitants,  and  in  1670,  (>.s,'.>04. 

The  R.  R.  station,  fronting  on  E.xchange  Placi-,  is  a  large,  liandsome 
budding,  near  which  is  a  costly  *  monument,  erectetl  by  the  -tate  in 
honor  of  her  dead  soldiers.  The  base  of  this  work  is  of  l»lue  Westerly 
granite,  bearhig  the  arms  of  the  U.  S.,  and  of  R.  I.  Surrounding  this 
are  four  7-ft.  bronze  statues  repr'isenting  the  Infantry,  Cavalry,  Artillery, 
and  the  Navy  ;  above  winch  is  a  statue  of  militant  America  (10  ft.  high), 
bearing  a  sword  and  laurel  wreath  in  one  hand,  and  a  wreath  of  imnuir- 
telles  in  the  other.  The  names  of  1,680  R.  I.  soldiers  who  died  in  the  War 
for  the  Union  are  inscribed  on  the  monument,  which  was  designed  by 
Randolph  Rogers,  of  Rome.  Near  Exchange  Place,  and  parallel  to  it,  is 
Westminster  St.,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city.  From  this  street  to 
Weybosset  St.  runs  the  Arcade,  a  fine  granite  building  (built  1828),  on 
the  plan  of  the  European  "galleries,"  containing  a  great  number  of  bliops 
rar'  <  d  along  a  glass-roofed  jiromenade.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  massive 
granile  building  of  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Otlice.  The  most  notable 
chuvi'ies  are  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Mary  (Roman  Catholic),  the  Union 
Congregational,  the  Roger  Williams  Baptist,  the  ancient  First  Baptist 
(.society  founded  1G39),  Grace  Churcli,  and  St.  Stephen's  (Ei)iscopal),  a 


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massive  edi{ic<;  of  rugged  brown  stone,  with  a  deeply  recessed  cliancel,  an 
ornate  roof,  and  riclily  stained  windows.  Tliere  are  69  cliurches  in  tlie 
city.  In  tht:  S.  part,  and  fronting  on  the  harbor,  is  the  stately  building 
of  tlie  *R.  I.  Hospital,  surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds.  Some  distance 
S.  of  this,  the  city  is  i)re]>aring  a  i)ark  on  ihe  bold  shores  of  the  Narra- 
gunsett  Bay. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Providence  River  are  two  long  business  streets  and  a 
line  of  h('i;j;hts  covered  with  residences.  On  N.  Main  St.,  near  Presi- 
dent, is  the  quaint  old  chuich  of  the  First  Bai)tist  Society,  and  beyond  it, 
on  the  corner  of  S.  Court  St.,  is  the  small  brick  building  used  for  the 
State  House.  Fine  views  ;>f  the  "seven  hills  of  Providence"  are  gained 
fiom  Benefit  St.  above  the  State  House.  On  the  comer  of  Collega  and 
Benefit  Sis.  is  the  *  AtheneDum,  a  .sturdy  little  granite  building,  con- 
taining a  lilti-ary  of  32,000  volumes.  Several  busts  are  preserved  here,  and 
some  fine  paintings,  among  which  are  a  copy  of  Stuari's  Washington, 
by  Allston ;  portrait  of  (.'banning,  AUston  ;  Churles  II.,  long  thought  to 
be  by  Van  Dyk,  now  held  to  be  by  Cas2)ar  ;  portraits  of  Gen.  (ireene,  J. 
(}.  Percival,  and  Phillips  Brocks;  -portrait  of  a  young  lady,  (his  niece  ?) 
reading,  by  Sir  Joshua  Iteynolc  one  of  his  finest  works.  But  the  gem 
of  this  collection  is  Malbone's  masterpiece,  *  "  The  Hours,"  painted  in 
Avatcr-colors  on  a  sheet  of  ivory  6  inches  Ity  7,  and  i)resented  to  the 
Athenanim  in  1S53,  by  130  subscribers.  The  picture  represents  Eunomia, 
Dice,  and  Irene,  the  Past,  Present,  and  Future.  The  President  of  the 
lloyal  Academy  said  of  it  to  Monroe,  "  I  have  seen  a  picture,  painted  by 
n  young  man  by  the  name  of  Malbone,  which  no  man  in  England  could 
excel."  On  the  heights  near  the  Athenaium  is  the  line  of  buildings 
(Iv.  I.  College,  Hope,  Manning,  and  University  Halls,  &c.),  pertaining  to 
Brown  University.  There  is  here  a  fine  library  of  about  40,000  volumes, 
a  museum  of  Natural  History  containing  10,000  specimens;  and  in  the 
portrait  gallery  3S  portraits,  some  of  which  are  of  value. 

Rhode  Island  CoUef^e  was  foun.led  at  Warren  in  1764,  and  removed  to  Provi- 
dtMi'.'e  ill  1770.  Its  lmililiii;,'.s  served  iis  a  liospital  for  the  Franco-Auierican  army 
durin^c  K'rcat  part  of  the  Itcvohition.  Nieliolas  Brown,  and  others  of  that  dis- 
tinguished R.  I.  family,  iiaviii;^  greatly  aided  the  college,  in  1804  Hs  name  was 
elianged  to  Rrown  University.  Tw(.  thirds  of  tlie  Boards  of  Fellows  and  Trustees 
are  rc(iuired  by  the  charter  to  be  Bu,i)tists. 

The  iiall  of  the  R.  I.  Historical  Society  is  near  the  University,  and 
contains  many  relics  of  the  Indians  and  early  settlers,  together  with  6,000 
books,  30,000  pamphlets,  and  7,000  MSS.  On  Hope  St.,  N.  W,  of  the 
University,  are  the  extensive  buildings,  surrounded  by  fine  grounds,  of  the 
Dexter  Asylum  (for  the  poor),  near  which  are  the  ornate  buildings  of  the 
Fiiends'  Boarding  School,  The  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane  has  large 
and  stately  edifices,  surrounded  by  115  acres  of  ornamental  grounds,  on 
the  heights  which  look  down  on  the  widenings  of  the  Seekouk   River 


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BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Rcnite  S.       G5 


(which  is  tlie  boundary  of  Massacliusetts).  N.  of  the  Butler  Hospital 
is  Swan  Point  Cemetery,  a  beautiful  rural  necropolis  on  undulating 
ground  near  the  river.  The  Reform  School  and  the  Home  for  Aged 
Women  are  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city.  Near  tlie  E.  end  of  Power  St., 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  the  What  Cheer  Rock,  on  which  Roger 
Williams  first  landed.  N.  of  the  Cove  (»ear  the  R.  R.  Station),  is  the 
Rhode  Island  State  Prison. 

Environs  of  Providence. 

On  the  N.  (4|  M.)  is  the  great  manufacturing  town  of  Pawtucket. 
Cranston  (4  M.  to  the  W. )  is  a  busy  working  place,  which  has  the  Narra- 
gansett  Trotting  Park,  famous  in  R.  I.  raues.  The  mile  elliptical  track  is 
entered  through  a  fine  towered  gateway,  and  the  grand  stand  contains 
5,000  seats.  Himt's  Mill,  'l  M.  distant,  is  a  favorite  drive.  Steamers 
leave  Provi<lence  almost  hourly  in  summer  for  the  popular  resorts  on 
the  Bay,  and  four  times  daily  for  Newport.  Sassafras  Point,  Robin  Hill, 
with  its  old  fort,  and  Field's  Point,  are  passed  soon  after  leaving  the  city, 
and  then  Ocean  Cottage  (hotel)  is  reached,  on  the  E.  sliore.  The  sturdy 
liglithouse,  in  the  Bay  beyonrl,  i.s  on  Pondiam  Rock,  named  after  a  brave 
sachem  of  the  Narragansetts  who  was  killed  in  battle  with  the  English,  in 
Jnly,  1676,  The  steamer  now  stojjs  at  Vue  d(!  I'Eau,  a  large  hotel  on  the 
E.  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Bay.  Smitli's  Palace  is  on  tiie  W., 
after  which  comes  tlie  favorite  Silver  Spring  House  (on  the  E.).  Pawtuxet 
village  (5  M.  from  Providence,  on  the  W.  shore)  has  sandy  shores  which 
afford  good  bathing.  After  rounding  Sabin's  Point  on  the  E.,  the  Cedar 
Grove  House  (30  rooms,  4  bowling  .alleys),  with  its  cottage  village,  is  seen 
on  a  high  bluff.  At  Gaspee  Point,  below  Pawtuxet.  the  British  sloop-of- 
wi  r  "Gaspee"  grounded  while  chasing,  a  small  American  vessel.  On  the 
following  night  (June  17,  1772,)  a  band  of  Providence  men  surprised  the 
"  Gaspee,"  captured  and  landed  her  crew,  and  then  burnt  the  vessel.  Bul- 
lock's Point  (on  the  E.)  and  Mark  Rock  (on  the  W.),  *' the  Natchez  of 
Rhode  Island,"  the  sandy  Canimicut  Point  with  its  lighthouse,  and 
Nayatt  Point,  on  the  opposite  shore,  are  rapidly  passed,  and  then  the  steamer 
passes  out  into  the  Bay  proper.  Bocky  Point  (Rocky  Point  Hotel,  on 
the  European  plan,  accommodating  700  guests)  is  soon  reached.  This 
Point  is  midway  between  Providence  and  Newport,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
joyous  and  attractive  resorts  in  New  England.  A  lofty  tower  near  the 
hotel  aftbrds  a  noble  *  view,  including  Providence  and  Newport,  Fall 
River,  Bristol,  and  Warren,  and  many  other  towns,  with  the  whole  sweep 
of  the  Bay.  The  wild  and  cavernous  rock-formations,  the  free  menagerie, 
and  the  elevated  railway,  are  some  of  the  attractions.  250  persons  are 
employed  here  through  the  summer  ;  from  the  hotel  telegrams  may  be 
sent  all  over  the  Union.     But  the  chief  excellency  of    "  the   crown   of 

E 


I, 


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66       Jioute  S. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Narragausett  Bay  "  is  the  diuiug-rooni  (seating  1,500  persons),  where  fish 
and  cJams  are  served  up  in  every  sliape.  The  clani-bakes  of  Rocky  Point 
are  unrivalled  in  tlie  world.  Soon  after,  the  steamer  j)asses  Warwick 
and  its  lighthouse,  and  along  Prudence  Island  (G  M.  long),  near  which 
are  tlic  islets  of  Patience,  Hope,  and  Desjjair.  S.  of  Prudence  Island  is 
the  widest  part  of  the  Bay,  and  Warwick  village  is  visible  on  the  W. 
shore.  The  course  now  lies  between  Rhode  and  (^anonicut  Islands,  pass- 
ing several  smaller  islets,  and  running  under  the  frowning  walls' of  Fort 
Adams  into  the  Harbor  of  Newport. 

The  Providence,  Warren,  and  Bristol  R.  R.  leaves  its  station  at  Fox 
Point,  crosses  the  Seekonk  River,  and  j)ass('.s  the  i>opular  resorts  on  the  E, 
shore.  Stations,  India  Point,  Boston  Switch,  \'ue  de  I'Eau,  Drownville, 
Nayatt,  Barrington  and  Warren.  The  latter  town  (Cole's  Hotel,  estab- 
lished in  17G2)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  place  on  the  E.  sliore  of  Narra- 
gansett  Bay.  It  is  a  nursery  of  sailors,  and  has  a  well-protected  harbor. 
The  Sachem  Massasoit  had  his  favorite  dwelling  here  on  his  territory  of 
Sowamset,  near  a  spring  which  is  still  called  after  his  name.  The  Warren 
Veteran  Artillery  has  two  cannon  whicli  were  made  at  Strasbourg  in  17G0, 
taken  from  the  French  at  Montreal,  surrendereil  with  Burgoyne  at  Sara- 
toga, and  used  in  the  Porr  Rebellion  (1842).  A  railroad  runs  from 
Warren  to  Fall  River. 

Tlie  next  station,  4  M.  S.  of  Warren,  is  Bristol  (a  small  hotel).  This 
town  is  a  pleasant  summer-resort,  and  is  built  on  a  higli  peninsula  sloping 
to  a  deep,  safe  harbor.  Three  wide,  grassy  streets  run  down  the  penin- 
sula, —  Water  St.,  near  the  harbor  ;  Main  St.,  with  St.  Michael's  (Epis.) 
Church,  and  two  or  three  old  colonial  mansions;  and  High  St.,  with  the 
common,  the  poor  county  buildings,  and  a  fine  Cong,  church,  in  rambling 
mediaeval  architecture.  From  this  broad  and  quiet  street  may  be  seen 
Mount  Hope,  where  was  "King  Philip's  seat"  (Arnold),  or  "Philip's 
sty  at  Mount  Hope  "  (Palfrey). 

King  Philip,  or  Metacoiiiet,  was  the  son  of  srass.isoit,  and  chief  of  the  Wam- 
panoags.  After  enduring  various  aggressions  from  his  white  neighbors,  in  1671, 
thp  Plyniouth  people  deniandorl  that  all  the  Indians  should  give  up  their  arms, 
and  Philij)  demurred  at  this.  Tlion,  travelling  throughout  New  England,  he 
formed  a  powerful  anti-English  loague,  and  attacked  the  colonies  in  1675.  After  a 
long  war  conducted  with  unexam]iled  ferocity  by  both  combatants,  his  power 
was  broken  by  the  Narraj;:uis('tt  Fort  Fight,  and  the  repulse  tVom  Taunton. 
Having  decimated  the  eoloiiisis  and  destroyed  many  of  their  fairest  towns, 
he  was  hunted  down  and  shot  near  the  foot  of  Mount  Hope,  in  midsummer, 
1676.     During  the  war  600  colonists  were  killed,  and  12  towns  were  destroyed. 

In  16S0  the  i>eninsula  was  bought  from  the  Goveniment  by  a  company  of  Bos- 
ton capitalists,  who  divided  it  into  lots,  and  sold  the  land  to  actual  settlers.  In 
Oct.,  177"),  three  British  frigates  bombarded  Bristol,  and  in  1778  a  raiding  party 
of  British  soldiers  plundered  this  town  and  Warren. 

Fine  yaclits  are  made  at  Bristol,  also  cotton  goods  and  refined  sugars,  while 
an  immense  rubber  manufactoiy  does  a  business  of  §  2,000,000  a  year. 

The  Providence  and  Worcester  R.  R.  runs  from  Providence  to  Worcester  (Route 
10) ;  and  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  R.  R.  I'uns  W.  to  Hart  onl  and 


M 


4i 


i^ 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


It^nik  8. 


G7 


^ 


'Waterbiu7  (Route  11).     A  daily  line  of  BteaiTier.s  runs  between  Providenco  and 
Nt'W  York,  cunyiny  i>a.ssengers  and  freiylit. 

Alter  leaving  Providence,  the  Shore  Line  route  to  New  York  (Route  8, 
coulimicd)  run.s  S.,  passing  the  stations  Ehnville,  II ill's  Grove,  Apponaug, 
and  Greenwich  (Updikt  House,  Greenwich  Hotel).  Greenwich  i.s  a  neat 
village  on  Cowesit  Bay,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  large  Methodist  Seminary. 
In  1G41,  a  trading-post  and  inn  were  erected  here  on  the  great  Southern 
road,  or  "  Pequot  Path."  Its  site  is  now  occui)ied  by  the  Updike  Houa^', 
into  which  many  of  its  timhers  are  built.  At  this  post  the  Mass.  and 
Plymouth  forces  met  before  the  Narragansett  Fort  Fight  (1675),  and 
liither  they  retreated  with  their  wounded. 

Old  War-wick  is  a  U\\\  miles  distant,  across  Cowesit  I3ay.  Sanuiel  Oorton 
a  layinau  wlio  intrudod  into  tiie  arena  of  theological  polemics,  was  banished 
from  Plymouth  in  1G37,  liom  N'e\vi>ort  in  lUll,  from  ProviJ.enee  in  lOl'J,  from 
Cranston  later  in  the  same  year,  and  then  settled  on  Shawomet.  la  1(14.'},  40 
.soldiers  from  Boston  came  here,  and  took  Gorton  and  10  colonists  to  IJoston, 
where  they  were  tried  and  s'liteneed  as  "danniable  heretics,"  and  banished 
from  America.  The  Earl  of  Warwick  sent  him  back  to  Hhawomet  (which  ho 
named  Warwick),  and  under  tliat  nobliiuian's  i)rotection  he  spent  the  remaiudei* 
of  his  life  in  launching  anathematic  trt^atises  at  Massachusetts  and  R.  I.,  among 
which  were  "Simplicitie's  Defence  against  .Seven-Headed  Policy,"  "Antidote 
against  Pharasaic  Teachers,"  &c.  In  1052,  the  clerk  of  this  unfortunate  settle- 
ment was  disfranchised  on  seven  charges  :  first,  for  calling  the  oUicers  of  the 
town  rogues  and  thieves;  second,  for  calling  all  the  town  rogues  and  thieves; 
third,  for  threatening  to  kill  all  the  mares  in  town.  In  1070,  the  jdace  was  at- 
tacked and  burnt. 

Nathaniel  Creene  was  born  at  Warwick,  in  1742.  He  It  I  the  R.  I.  brigade  to 
Cambridge  in  177ii,  connnanded  the  left  wing,  and  toi>k  the  guns  ai,  Ti-cntou, 
saved  the  army  at  the  Battle  of  tiie  Brandywine,  and  led  a  brigade  at  (Jennan- 
town,  Monmouth,  and  Xewiiort.  In  17^0,  he  connnanded  tlio  sliattercd  Army  of 
the  South  in  its  celebrated  retreat  across  South  ai^d  Nnrth  Carolina  into  Virginia, 
and  fought  the  drawn  battle  at  Guilford  C.  II.  In  April,  1781,  he  was  badly  de- 
feated by  Lord  Rawdon,  at  llobkirk's  Ilill,  and  was  repulsed  from  Fort  i)(i',  but 
in  September  he  won  the  sanguinary  and  decisive  battle  of  P^utaw  Springs,  which 
ruined  the  British  hoi)es  in  the  South.  Congress  jjresented  him  with  a  medal,  a 
British  standard,  and  two  captured  cannon,  and  the  Stiite  of  Georgia  gave  hiuj  a 
line  i)lantation  near  Savannah,  where  he  resided  until  his  death. 

George  S.  Greene,  born  at  Warwick  in  ISOl,  commanded  a  division  at  Antietam, 
Chancellorsville,  and  Gettysburg ;  and  in  N.  and  S.  Carolina  during  the  rest  of 
the  war. 

Silas  Casey,  born  at  E.  Greenwich  in  1807,  commanded  a  division  of  the  Army 
of  the  Potomac,  and  was  greatly  distinguished  in  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Fair 
Oaks,  May  31,  1802. 

The  celebrated  summer  resort  .at  Rocky  Point  is  not  far  from  Old  Warwick. 

Station  "Wickford.  The  village  (Washinffion  Hotel),  a  quaint  and  quiet 
old  place,  is  on  a  broad  bay,  and  is  reached  by  a  branch  railroad  in  2.^  Zkl. 
(connecting  with  a  steamer  to  Newport  daily).  In  the  edge  of  the  village 
is  a  curious  square  Episcopal  church,  which  was  built  in  1700,  and  has 
been  long  deserte'l. 

Station  Kingston.  The  village  (Kingston  House)  is  on  the  heights,  2 
M.  E.  of  the  station,  and  contains  the  county  buildings  of  Wasliington 
Co.  9  M.  from  the  station  (carriages  in  waiting)  is  the  fa.shionable  sea- 
side resort  at  Narragansett  Pier. 


08       Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


i 

is 
r' ' 


lintels.  *T(»\vor  Hill  IIouho,  a  noble  building  on  Nurra^'ansttt  Il(;i>;hts,  wliidi 
ovcrlonk  i\w.  wliolc  Hay,  is  ;i  M.  from  the  sIkuc  (lior.su-t'ur») ,  Ucliivan  iloiisif  ; 
Contineiitil  House  ;  Miixsoii,  Ha/aid,  Onai  ,  .Mctatoxct,  Hca-View,  Kliiiwoml, 
Narraj,'ans('tt,  Mattliewson,  Allaiitii',  Atwuod,  Rtvere,  Mount  Hope,  and  .itiicrs. 
Most  oi'  tlii'Si!  Iiotels  accoiuniodate  UO- SO  guests,  mid  ehargf- §  1*2- Jjl  18.00  ii  week. 
Th»!  Towur  Hill,  Atwood,  and  two  or  three  others,  are  larger  and  more  ox- 
pensive. 

Music,  Lectures,  &c.,  In  Cnnnnehet  Hall.  A  liandaome  Episoopal  church, 
of  sloiie,  has  receutiy  been  built.  Narragaiisett  I'ier  1*.  O.  receives  two  maild 
daily.     SteatnerH  leave  daily  for  New]>ort  and  I'rovidence. 

In  1856,  a  fainily  from  Pliihidolpliia  came  licre,  and  boarded  at  a  farm- 
liouso  near  tlic  beach.  The  next  year  tliey  returned  witli  some  friends, 
and  tlie  farm  was  calh'd  tlie  Narra<i;an,sett  lioardhig- House.  Summer 
visitors  increased,  until  in  18(57,  tlie  Atlantic  (80  guests),  the  Atwood  (175 
guests),  and  the  Revere  (50  guests)  J  louses  were  built.  Other  hotels 
were  rapidly  buMt,  and  in  1871,  the  Continental,  Maxson,  Mt.  Hope, 
and  Tower  Hill  Houses  were  fini.shed. 

Tlic  Beach  affords  fine  riding  and  bathing  (light  sn.rf),  and  many  fi.sh 
are  caught  from  the  rocks,  Narragansett  is  sai<l  to  be  more  (juiet  and  un- 
assuming than  Newport,  and  its  usual  routine  is  bathing  in  the  morning 
(wlien  3-400  persons  may  be  seen  in  the  surf),  and  cro([uet  in  the  after- 
noon. Below  the  Pier  is  a  mass  of  rock.s,  beyond  which  stretches  the 
long  line  of  Wolcott's  Beach,  Tlie  noble  aiid  richly  decorated  mansion  of 
the  Sprague  family  is  near  the  cluster  of  hotels.  Every  visitor  shouhl  go 
to  Narragansett  Heights  (3  M,),  where  the  palatial  Tower  Ilill  Hotel 
stands  on  its  800-ac,re  i)lateau,  near  Silver  Lake,  400  ft.  above  the  Ray. 
The*  view  is  fine,  extending  over  Newi)ort  and  10-12  villages,  and  cov- 
ering a  horizon-line  of  100  M.  The  Ocean,  the  Bay,  Point  Judith,  and 
the  lakes  of  S.  Kingstown,  are  all  visible.  4-6  M.  W.  of  the  Pier  is 
Peacedale,  with  a  fine  stone  church,  and  a  large  manufactory  of  woollen 
shawls. 

The  road  running  S.  W.  from  Peacedale,  through  Wakefield,  passes  the  remains 
of  tlie  old  Potter  Palace,  and  the  birth i)laco  of  Commodore  Perry. 

John  Potter  was  a  magnate  of  the  middle  of  the  ISth  century,  who  built  here 
in  Narragansett  a  line  mansion,  richly  frescoed  throughout,  surrounded  by  gai- 
ilens,  and  kept  by  100  slaves,  where  he  used  to  receive  company  in  baronial 
style. 

At  and  before  this  time  large  Quaker  settlements  were  scattered  through  the 
district,  and  three  of  their  deserttnl  (duirclies  still  remain  in  this  town. 

Oliver  Hazanl  Perry  was  born  in  1785,  of  an  old  aristocratic  family  of  Narra- 
gansett. He  served  as  a  midshipman  in  the  Trii)olitan  War,  and  was  put  in  com- 
mand of  the  squadron  on  Lake  Erie,  at  whose  head,  iSejit.  10,  1813,  he  won  a  bril- 
liant victory,  and  cajitured  the  entire  British  fleet.  He  died  of  yellow  fever,  at 
Trinidad,  in  1810.  His  l)n)ther.  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry,  born  at  Newport,  17!.4, 
was  an  active  naval  ollicer,  chiefly  distinguished  for  leading  the  Japan  expedition 
in  1852-4,  when  he  concluded  an  important  treaty  w  ith  that  empire. 

(Jommodorc  Perry's  cousin,  .Stephen  C'hamplin,  Commodore  in  the  U.  S.  Navy, 
was  born  here  in  1789.  He  tired  the  first  mid  last  shots  at  the  battle  of  Lake 
Erie,  where  he  commanded  the  "ycorpion,"  in  Perry's  squadron.  His  services  in 
the  War  of  1812  were  imi>ortant. 

G.  C.  Stuart,  the  celebrated  portrait-painter,  was  bom  in  this  town  in  1754. 
Most  of  the  time  from  1772  to  1793  he  s])ent  in  London  and  Paris,  an<l  kept  his 
studio  at  Boston,  180C-28.     His  portraits  of  Washington  and  other  founder.s  of 


^ 


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O 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Pinntr  S. 


69 


the  Rr'i»n1)Ii(!  aro  the  best  in  existence,  and  show  skill  of  the  higlicst  onlor  in  por- 
trnit-jiaintinj?. 

li  M.  fioiii  tiio  Perry  fann  Is  the  Potter  Place,  K.  of  wlilch  is  the  Inn^',  islaiiil- 
8tiiilile<i  la^^'odii  known  as  Point  .luilitii  Poii>(,  aiioiuulin;^  in  llsli.  Fulitt  JudltU 
is  tlie  site  of  an  inii)ortant  li^lithouse. 

Tiie  Icj^eml  inns,  that  far  liack  in  the  eolonial  days,  a  storm-tossed  vessel  was 
driven  in  t<nvards  the  Narrnicaiisett  shore.  The  captain,  an  ancient  mariner,  wa«j 
at  the  wheel,  watclifid  aniiil  tlie  jierils  of  an  nnkn-iwri  coast,  when  his  l/ri^ht- 
eyed  dan^'liter,  .Jnditii,  <'allcd  out  to  him,  "  Land,  father!  I  see  the  land  !  "  His 
dim  eyes  could  not  discern  tlu!  distant  shore,  and  he  shouted,  "Where  away? 
Point,  Jndith,  point!"  She  did  jtoint,  and  lie  elian^'ed  his  course,  and  left  the 
surf-whitened  cap(!  far  away  under  Ice;  antl  when  lie  ri;ailicd  jiort,  tlie  story  nf 
the  fearless  i^\v\  iiointiii.L;  out  tlie  dan;,'cr  from  the  storm-swcpt  deck  was  told  often 
and  afiain  amonj^  the  sailors,  so  that  the  old  sea-captains,  wiu'n  they  jiasscd  this 
cape  thereafter,  rejx'ated  the  story,  and  ^ave  her  name  to  th(!  place. 

I)urin},'  nnnh  of  the  year  ITTf*.  tlic  Count  Dilstainp^'s  fleet  of  Kl  vessels,  with 
0X\  cannon,  was  stretched  across  the  Hay  from  Point  .Fmlith,  and  maintained  an 
eflleient  Mockade  of  the  British  forrcs  at  Newport.  Admiral  Lord  Howe  attacked 
D'Est'iin;^  with  alar^e  sipiadron,  and  after  an  indecisive  battle  anil  a  severe  storm, 
both  fleets  were  foreeil  to  leave  the  Hay  and  relit. 

Tliis  town  of  8.  Kingstown  is  tlic  largest  in  the  State,  covering  over  7*5 
square  M.  N.  W.  of  Kingston,  near  the  Exeter  line,  on  a  higli,  rocl<y 
hill,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Indian  "Queen's  Fort."  Part  of  the  stone-wall 
remains,  also  a  rock-chamber  called  the  Queen's  Bedroom,  v.i"Te  many 
arrows  have  been  found. 

On  a  hill  in  the  great  pine  and  cedar  swamp  near  Worden's  Pond  (S. 
W.  of  Kingston)  are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  Narragansett  Fort 
(guide  necessary,  who  can  sometimes  be  obtained  at  the  farm-houses  oa 
the  edge  of  the  swamp). 

At  the  time  of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  the  Narragansett  Indians,  nnwastctd 
by  i)estilenee,  ruled  the  K.  Tliere  were  ;i(),00fl  .souls  in  this  nation  (Hriidey),  or 
according  to  Roger  Williams,"!?  towns  within  20  M.,  with  o, 000  warriors." 
Gookin  (1674)  calls  them  an  "active,  laborious,  and  ingenious  people,"  and  they 
were  extensively  engaged  in  tra<le  and  manufacture,  supplying  nearly  all  the  New 
Englant'  tribes  with  Jiipes,  pots,  and  wami)um  .jewelry  and  coin.  Their  territory 
stretched  from  Wickford  nearly  to  Westerly,  witli  its  largest  villages  in  the  vicin- 
ity (favorable  for  fishing  or  agricnlture)  of  the  great  i>ouds  in  S.  Kingstown.  In 
their  simple  theology  they  looked  forward  to  some  mystii'  realms  in  tlie  far  8.  W., 
where  the  gods  and  pure  s])irits  dwelt,  while  the  souls  of  innrderers,  thieves,  ami 
liai's  are  doomed  to  wander  abroad.  Tiiey  fought  freiiuently  with  the  Mohegans 
and  Peipiots,  but  lived  more  peaceably  with  the  Massachusetts,  which  was  the 
name  they  (living  in  a  flat  country)  applied  to  the  dwellers  at  Neponset,  Milt"n, 
and  Canton.  It  is  from  Massa  (many)  and  Waschoe  (mountains),  and  means  the 
people  of  the  many  mountains  (the  high  blue  hills  of  Milton).  Canonicus  and 
Miautonomoh  ruleil  from  about  lOOO  to  1(543  ;  the  former  being  "a  wise  anil  i>ea(  c- 
able  prince"  (Roger  Williams),  and  the  latter  a  "brave  and  magnanimous  chief," 
who  gave  lands  freely  to  the  R.  I.  colonists.  Rut  the  unvarying  friendship  b;'- 
tween  the  settlers  and  this  great  tribe  was  ended  in  107'>,  when  the  fiery  eloquence 
and  crafty  subtlety  of  King  Philip  of  the  Wampanoags  induced  them  to  enter 
the  anti-English  confederation  of  the  New  Englaml  tribes.  The  United  Colonies 
took  prompt  action,  and  assembled  1,000  men  under  (Jen.  W^inslow,  on  the  verge 
of  the  tribal  territory.  Many  of  the  Indians  were  r>ampaigning  witli  King  Philip  ; 
many  fled  to  the  N.  W.  ;  and  the  rest  abandoned  their  villages  and  took  refuge  in 
the  ancient  fortress  of  the  tribe  in  the  swamp  near  Worden's  Pond.  After  a  long 
march  through  the  snow  in  Dec,  1(J7.^,  the  colonial  troops  came  in  sight  of  the 
hill,  covered  with  a  system  of  embankments,  palisades,  and  abatis,  and  defended 
by  the  flower  of  the  Narragan setts.  The  Massachusetts  men,  in  the  van,  dashed 
into  the  Fort  through  an  enfiladed  entrance,  and  after  a  furious  struggle,  being 


70     JioiUc  s. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


I 


i-: 


iV 


unHUpported,  tlioy  worr  clHvcn  out,  with  luvivy  Io.^b.  Hio  wliolc  fnrrc  imw  Imving 
nnivfu,  a  iloublc  uttack  wan  iiiailc  ;  tlic  troojis  of  Coiiiiccticut  HtoriiHfl  the  nnU\ 
ami,  wliifo  tin;  atteiiti(tii  of  tin;  wliolf^  Iiniiaii  Ki*i''i«'»'»  wih  ct'iitrffl  nii  tliiii  point, 
tlic  riyinuulh  (Miiii|iaiiic>s  Itroke  UhoukIi  tiir  uhatis  and  iialimuleH  on  tlu;  other 
siile,  and  attacked  ttieni  in  the  rear,  A  J)ittcr  coinliat  ensued,  tlic  IndianH  retir- 
ing to  their  wi^waniH  and  reiiulsiiig  every  attac-k  of  the  colonials,  who  now  held 
tlie  walls.  Fire  \v,ih  now  ajiplied  to  thfl  wiKwaniH,  and  Hpread  ra|iidly,  aniid  a 
Hcenfi  of  nnntterahle  contUNiou  and  carna^'e.  A  hand  of  chosen  warriors  dashed 
forth  and  cleared  a  way  and  covered  t\\c  retreat  of  fidl  iJ.oOO  peojih-,  alter  whii'li 
iho.  colonials  were  left  in  full  possession,  liavin;^  lost  so  men  killed  and  l.^') 
wt)unded.  ;i()0  Wiirriors  were  killed,  and  (H»()  prisoners  taken,  of  whom  most  of 
the  lightiuK  men  were  either  shot  on  JiOrtton  Conmion,  ilied  on  Deer  Islaml,  or 
wereH(dd  into  slavery.  The  tribe  was  annihilated.  Nearly  all  the  colonial  captains 
were  shot,  and  a  considerahle  i)ropoition  of  the  wounded,  borne  through  a  road- 
less ';uuutry  in  midwinter,  scoics  of  miles  tu  tliu  settlements,  diud  un  tho  way 
homo. 

"The  bitter  cold,  the  tarled  swami>,  the  tediojis  march,  tho  stronR  fort,  tho 
iinm<;ruus  and  stubborn  enemy  they  contended  with  lor  their  God,  KiiiK,  and 
country,  be  their  trophies  over  death. "— Comi.  Legislaturu  on  "  tho.sc  dead  in 
tho  Fort  Fight  in  Narrugansctt. 

In  10-12  lain,  aftci'  leaving  Kingston  Station,  the  train  passes  tlirough 
the  swamp  wliero  the  battle  took  place.  The  next  station  is  Carolina, 
with  large  woollen  niilhi,  3-4  M.  S.  of  which  is  a  reservation,  with  church 
and  school-house,  where  lives  the  sc.:hty  renuiant  of  the  Nan-agansett 
tribe.  Stations,  liichvuind  Smitch,  Charkstown,  Westerly  (Dixon 
House,  $3.00  a  day).  In  ]<'G5,  a  division  of  the  Newport  church 
moved  to  Westerly,  and,  in  1671,  embraced  the  tenets  of  the  Seventh 
Day  Baptists^  so  if  the  traveller  chances  to  be  here  on  Saturday,  he  will 
find  but  little  business  going  on,  and  the  church  bells  ringing.  Westerly 
is  noted  for  its  extensive  manufactures,  and,  among  other  tilings,  turns 
out  every  year  442  miles  of  llannel  and  1031  miles  of  cotton  and  woollen 
cloths.  Many  summer  visitors  stop  at  the  elegant  Dixon  House,  and 
avail  themselves  of  the  steamer  which  runs  semi-daily  down  the  Pawcatuck 
River  to  * 

Watch  Hill  Point. 

ITotelS' — *  Ocean  Ilcuse,  on  a  far-viewing  liill  ;  Watch  Hill  House,  30-40 
years  olil,  the  lirst  hotel  here  ;  Larkin  Hou.se,  near  the  lighthouse  ;  Atlantic 
House,  Dickens,  Bay  View,  and  Plimpton  Houses.  There  is  but  little  ditfercnee 
in  these  liotels,  and  the  ]>rices  arc  somewliat  less  than  tluse  at  Narragansett  Pier. 

Steamers  in  sunnner  run  from  Westerly  to  Watch  Hill  twii'e  daily  ;  from 
P.tonington  4-5  times  daily  ;  from  New  Loudon,  daily  ;  and  from  Norwich,  touch- 
ing at  New  London  and  Mystic,  daily. 

Watch  Hill  Point,  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  R.  I.,  is  a  high,  bold  promon- 
tory, from  which  the  sandy  Narragansett  Beach  runs  E.,  while  to  the  W. 
Napatree  Beach,  a  narrow  strip  of  sand,  runs  out  to  Sandy  Point.  From 
the  top  of  the  hill  a  good  sea  view  is  obtained,  with  Block  Island  to  the 
S.  E.,  Fisher's  Island  to  the  S.  W.,  and  the  town  of  Stoningtou  close  at 
hand  in  the  W.  From  its  fine  views,  excellent  bathing  beaches,  and  quiet 
and  unpretentious  hotels,  this  has  become  a  favorite  summer  resort. 

In  August,  1872,  the  passenger  steamer  **  Metis,"  bound  from  New 


+ 


fl 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


KoutcS.       71 


oiiion- 
le  W. 
From 
o  tlie 
)se  at 
quiet 

New 


t 


York  to  Piovi'lciice,  was  run  into  by  ai)other  vcHsel  of!"  this  point.  She 
sank  in  <lccp  water,  in  the  storm  nnd  ni).;ht,  and  lii  ormoroof  Ihm-  passen- 
gers were  lost.  Most  of  the  corpHoa,  together  with  the  deck  of  the  vessel, 
were  thrown  upon  Watfli  Ilill  Roarh. 

MU'V  Westerly  comes  Stonlngton  (tlio  *  Wadawaniick  House  is  a  large 
summer  hotel,  eommaiidin^'  a  lino  water- view.  It  aecommodatcs  140 
guests,  and  charges  $4.50  a  day;  large  retluetion  for  board  by  the 
HC'Won.     There  are  one  or  two  smaller  houses  here), 

Tliis  district  (Pawcatiir-k)  was  claiiiH-il  by  Mans,  ns  liors  in  risht  of  "Joint  con- 
f|>i!'st,"  .iftcr  tlic  (ji'ftMt  of  the  I'cciiiods,  l)iit  was  sctticil  in  liijii  from  ('<)iuip<'tlcnt. 
Ill  iSDl  it  Ix'c.iii;''  a  boroiii^li  nlmiit  wliicli  time  I'l-csidctit  Mwi;^'lit  wrote  that  "  Htoii- 
iii;;tnii  juid  all  it,-,  vicinity  siitlcri  in  rc!i;,ioii  froiii  tlic  no.iriit'ss  of  K.  I."  Aiij;.  0, 
isi  1,  tln'  l)on)ii;,di  was  attackc(|  l)y  the  Idntiilirs,  71  :  the  I'm'tolns,  '.\H  ;  ami 
."cveral  other  Hiitish  vessels,  which  lioiiiharded  if  for  three  days,  throwm;<(lO  tons 
of  iron  into  it.  Knur  attempts  to  land  were  repnlse.l  with  „ia|iesh<)t,  with  heavy 
loss,  and  the  Dispntrh,  '22,  was  seriously  injured  ami  driven  off  by  a  3-Kun  battel^ 
on  the  point.  The  town  was  deserted  by  its  people,  and  00  soldiers  were  scattered 
tliroii^di  it  to  put  out  the  llres. 

Stonington  is  built  on  a  narrow,  rocky  point,  with  quiet  streets,  cnibel- 
lislied  liero  and  there  by  iron  relies  of  1814. 

StcrtiiierH  from  Stonin;:ton  to  Watch  Hill  (5  times  daily  in  summer  (2.'!)c.). 

The  StuiiiiiKtoii  lAno  of  steamers  (to  New  Yori<)  has  fine  boats  which  leave 
tliis  port  nil  the  arriv.il  of  the  steanilioat  train  from  Hoston  ('.>-l'»  P.  M.),  and 
arrive  at  New  Yorl<  early  in  the  nioriiinj^.  Thi.s  is  one  of  the  lour  great  routes  to 
New  York,  tlu;  others  beiii;^  the  [-'all  lliver  Steamboat  Line,  the  Shore  Line  K.  U., 
Hiid  the  U.K.  route  via  S;)riii;j;fleld  and  Hartford.  Anew  line,  via  WlUlniantie 
and  New  Haven,  is  nearly  ready  for  travel. 

A  line  of  i)aekets  has  heretofore  run  from  Stonington  to  Block  Island,  and  a 
dailv  steamer  is  iiromised  for  tlie  s'l'iniier  of  1S7.'?. 

Itlock  iHland  (.Mitiliell  IIor;\  ■  S)»rin^'  House)  v/as  named  for  Adrian  Block, 
Ihe  Dutch  diseoven-r,  and  was  called  l>y  the  Indians  Maiiisecs  (the  isle  of  the 
little  god).  The  natives  made  most  of  the  wanqjum  (money)  for  the  interior 
tribes.  In  Ki-'Ui,  they  captured  a  Hoston  vesscd  near  tlie  island,  and  killed  the 
crew,  shortly  after  which  a  t.'onii.  coaster  ran  down  on  her,  rakiii;,'  the  <lo(;ks  with 
musketry.  11  Indians  jumped  overboard  and  were  drowned,  but  the  rest  took 
refu^,'e  in  the  hold.  The  coaster  then  i^wed  her  many  leafrucs  to  sea,  and,  havinj^ 
removed  her  .sails,  hit  her  go,  in  il'.niful  storm.  To  avenge  the  murder  of  thu 
Boston  sailors,  Gov.  Endicott  (who  hud  out  out  the  cross  from  the  Hritish  Hag 
with  his  rapier  as  "savoring  of  Popery")  campaigned  on  Block  Island  under  the 
jTossless  flag  and  destroyed  'J  large  villages.  The  island  sent  CO  ft.  of  wampuni 
to  Boston  for  tribute,  in  KioS,  mid  in  1(M>1  an  English  settlenuiUt  was  maile  here, 
which  wat;  ini-orporated  in  1072  as  New  Shoreham,  and  nearly  destroyed  by  a 
raid  from  French  vessels  in  1090. 

Block  Island  is  8  I\r.  long  by  from  2  -  4  M.  wide,  and  is  nearly  cut  in 
two  by  a  great  salt-water  pond,  S.  of  which  is  the  thin  village  of  New 
Shoreham,  witli  2  Baptist  churches.  There  are  many  abrupt  and  un- 
covered hills,  used  for  grazing.  The  men  are  mostly  employed  in  fishing, 
and  are  of  a  simple,  sturdy,  and  primitive  race.  The  island  belongs 
to  R.  I.,  and  has  about  1300  inhabitants,  whose  number  is  slowly  decreas- 
ing. 

After  Stonington  comes  the  busy,  ship-building  village  of  Mystic  (Hoxie 
House). 


72      Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


i 

t 

I) 


■  i. 


J 


Near  Mystic,  on  tlic  N.,  is  Peqtiot  Ilill,  wliidi  was  attacked  May  2Gtli,  1637  hy 
Mason,  who  had  aiarchci  from  Nan-agansett  willi  90  Englisliii.eii,  and  400  Mohe- 
gans  and  Narragans«tts,  under  the  yac)ienis  Uncus  and  Miantononioh.  On 
arriving  before  tlie  Fort,  tlic  Indi'in  allies  were  afraid  to  attiick,  ancl  drew  oil', 
whereupon  tlic  colonial  soldiers  i>;eitared  to  do  the  work  alone,  and  knelt  down 
in  prayer,  ('he  Sachem  V/equash,  the  guide  of  the  forces,  was  aninzed  at  liiis 
si^ht,  and  when  he  understood  it,  he  l)fcanie  iini)rcpsed  and  conveited,  an(l 
preached  throu^dio'it  New  Kngland  until  iic  scaled  his  faith  by  a  j^h  rioiis  mar- 
tyrdom.) The  English  now  inovcil  steadily  to  the  assault,  and,  favored  by  the 
darkness,  succeeded  in  getting  inside  the  palisades,  but  they  were  soon  over- 
wh(;lnied  by  vastly  sinieri'-!'  numbers,  and  fell  back,  after  setting  lire  to  th(!  wig- 
wams. "  The  greatness  and  violence  of  the  lire,  the  flashing  and  roari'.ig  of  the 
arniH,  the  shrieks  and  yells  ol  men,  women,  and  children  within  the  Fort,  and  the 
shoutings  of  Indians  without,  just  at  the  dawning  of  tlu;  morning,  exliii>itcd  a 
grand  and  awful  s<  cue.  The  Narragansetts,  Mohegans,  and  colo.iials  surrounded 
the  hill  and  hhot  down  t!ie  fugitives.  (JdO  re(niots  were  shot  or  burnt  on  this 
<lreadful  morning,  which  v,as  a  death-Mow  to  the  tribe.  "  It  was  a  fearful  sight 
to  sec  them  frying  in  tlie  lire,  and  the  streams  of  blood  (luenching  the  same,  and 
liorriblc  was  the  stink  and  scent  thcieof;  but  the  victory  seenuid  a  sweet  sacri- 
iice,  and  they  gave  the  praise  thereof  to  Uod."    Cotton  Mather. 

4  M.  from  Pecjuot  Hill  (half-way  to  New  London)  is  Fort  Hill,  where 
Sassacus,  sachem  of  the  I'eqnots,  had  his  royal  fortress.  On  hearing  of 
the  attack  of  Mason,  the  chief  sent  300  of  his  best  warriors,  who  «^;aused 
the  Indo-colonial  forces  great  loss  in  their  retreat.  But  meanwhile  those 
who  had  remained  in  the  fort  revolted,  and  Sassacus,  with  his  court  and 
chiefs,  was  forced  to  flee  to  the  Hudson  River,  whence  they  never 
returned,  and  the  tribal  organization  was  blotted  out  by  the  colonies,  who 
gave  for  slaves  to  t'lc  friendly  tribes  those  remaining  of  the  dreaded 
Pequots  or  "  De.stroy ers, "  *  There  is  a  noble  view  from  Fort  Hill  (4  M. 
E.  of  New  London)  which  endiraces  jiarts  of  15  towns,  4  counties,  3 
States,  20  islands,  7  lighthouses,  with  New  liondon,  Stonington,  Fort 
Griswold,  and  Fisher's  Island  Sound. 

Groton  is  a  very  hilly  township,  and  has  but  liitle  good  soil  (in  the 
river  valley).  In  1832,  40  Pequots  were  living  here  on  a  reservation,  and 
still  heartily  hating  the  Narragansetts.  Silas  Deane,^n  early  American 
diplomatist,  who  died  in  poverty  and  sorrow  in  a  strange  land,  after  hav- 
ing made  successfid  negotiations  with  France,  &c.,  was  a  native  of  Gro- 
ton. Between  1812  and  1819,  500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloth  were  woven 
ut  home  by  women  witli  hand-looms. 

Mystic  Island,  a  (juiet  sumnter  resort,  is  off  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

After  passing  the  station  of  Gruto.t,  the  cars  are  ferried  across  the 
Thames  River  to  New  Loudon  (Metropolitan  House,  §2.50.  A  new  and 
elegant  hotel  is  to  be  opened  here  in  the  summer  of  1873). 

New  London  is  a  city  of  9,570  inhabitants,  on  a  granite  strewn  declivity 
facing  S.  E.,  on  a  vi  le  harbor,  3  M.  long  and  30  ft.  deep. 

This  was  fonnerly  known  as  Pe(]u<)t  Harbor,  ami  was  raided  successively  by 
Mason,  Fndicott,  and  Undeihiil,  and  was  settled  by  John  Winthro}),  Jr.,  in  1645. 
In  1658  the  Connecticut  Assembly  resolved,  "Whereas,  this  court  considering 


! 


4 


\ 


'  One  authority  says  that  Pequots  meant.  "  Gray  Foxes." 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Ilmdc  S. 


73 


I 


Fort 


f 


* 


I 


I 


tlmt  there  hath  yet  no  ]ilaoe  in  nny  of  the  colonics  l)cen  named  in  honor  of  tlic 
city  of  London,  there  being  a  new  i>hice,  within  tliis  jurisdi(;tion  of  Connecticut 
settled  ujion  that  fair  river  Moiic^^un  in  the  Peijnot  country,  bein;;  an  excellent 
harlx)r,  and  a  tit  and  convenitnt  i)lacefor  future  trade,  it  being  also  the  only  place 
in  tliese  parts  which  the  English  jiossessed  by  conquest,  and  tiiat  upon  a  very 
,Vist  war,  npon  that  gr;j.t  and  w.irlilte  people,  the  IVpiots,  we,  theroforc,  that  we 
might  thereby  leave  to  j>i.sterity  that  wo  memory  of  that  renowned  city  of  Lon- 
don, from  whence  we  had  our  transportation,  have  thought  lit.  in  hoi;or  to  that 
famous  city,  to  call  ine  said  jilantition.  New  London."  In  1()'.)8,  the  i)iratc  Capt. 
Kidd  cruised  along  these  shores,  and  imried  on  (lardiner's  Island  lb  ounces  of 
gold,  (J.'W  ounces  of  silver,  and  a  large  lot  of  precious  stones,  which  were  recov- 
ered by  the  Earl  oT  licUomont,  governor  at  Hoston,  in  1(V.>'.».  Duriiig  the  Uevolu- 
tion,  the  navy  of  Conn.,  consisting  of  2(5  vessels,  made  New  Lon<lon  its  chief 
port ;  and  here,  in  1770,  wi  re  landed  the  governor,  oflicei-s,  and  i)lunder  from  New 
Providence  (of  the  Ualiamas),  which  had  been  captured  by  an  Anu'rican  fleet. 
Sept.  5,  1781,  'le  renegade  raider  Benedict  Arnold  a]ii)e.'irc(i  off  tlie  town  with  a 
fleet  and  a  large  force  of  British  troops,  and  having  ukvn  Fort  Trundjull  he 
l>lundered  and  l)umt  New  Tjondon.  At  the  sanu;  time  a  strong  detachment  made 
an  attiick  on  Fort  Griswold  (across  the  river),  wiiich  w,is  defended  by  Ool.  Led- 
yard  with  150  militia-n\en.  The  siiarp  fire  of  tlie  Americans  repulsed  the  first  at- 
tiick,  but  a  bayiiiet-charge  ensued,  which  carried  the  enemy  into  the  fort.  The 
British  commander  was  killed  on  the  rampart,  and  the  Tory  Cijit.  IJloomfleld 
(from  New  Jersey)  took  his  place.  As  he  shouted,  "  Who  commands  this  Fort?" 
Ool.  Ledyard  gave  him  his  sword,  saying,  "1  did  command,  sir  ;  Ijut  you  do 
now."  The  intamous  renegade  ran  Ledyanl  through  witli  his  own  sword,  where- 
upon a  general  massacre  ensued,  and  70  Americans  were  killeil  and  30  wounded 
after  the  surrender.     In  storming  tlie  Fort  the  British  lost  11)1  men. 

An  excursion  .should  Le  made  to  Croton  hoig  ts,  where  are  the  remains 
of  old  Fort  Griswold,  near  which  is  a  l)usine.ss-like  20-gun  battery,  in  ad- 
nurable  order,  which  protects  the  channel.  Witiiin  .stone's-thrc)W  of  the 
fading  rampai ...  oi  the  old  Fort  is  a  Monument  to  the  massacred  militia, 
—  a  noble  granite  .shaft.  127  ft.  high,  and  2G  ft.  square  at  the  base,  on 
V'hich  is  inscribed,  "  Zebulon  and  Naphthali  were  s.  iieojile  that  jeoparded 
their  lives  till  death  in  the  high  places  of  the  Lord."  A  marble  tablet  at 
the  base  contains  the  names  of  the  slain,  which  will  be  seen  to  run  in 
families ;  out  of  84  names,  9  are  Aver\s,  6  Perkinses,  4  Allyns,  4  Lester*, 
&c.  The  a.scent  of  the  inside  of  the  monument  .sliould  be  made  (key,  10 
c.  at  small  hou.se  close  to  the  monument).  From  the  top  a  *view  Is 
gained  which  is  "charming  for  the  student  of  nature  and  yet  more  charm- 
ing for  the  student  of  the  romance  of  American  history."  —  LossiNO.  To 
the  W.  is  New  London,  with  its  spires  and  terraccu  streets,  its  shipping, 
Fort  Trumbull's  massive  walls,  and  up  the  river  the  wideiiings  of  the 
Thames  where  the  U.  ^.  is  preparing  a  Navy  Yard.  On  the  E.  are  the 
stony  hills  of  Groton,  with  Fort  Hill  4  M.  away  ;  and  on  the  S.  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames  with  its  lighthouses,  hotels,  and  .summer-cottages.  Th<' 
long,  in-egular  line  of  Fisher's  Island  (t)  M.  long),  belonging  to  New  York 
and  occupied  by  three  farms,  is  in  the  S.  E.  over  which  the  ocean  is  seen, 
and,  if  the  day  is  clear.  Block  Island  may  lie  made  out  with  a  strong 
glass.  Many  leagues  to  the  S.  E.  over  the  W.  end  of  Fi.sher's  Island; 
may  be  seen  the  white  cliffs  of  Montauk  Point. 

A  steam-ferry  (4  c.)  leaves  the  foot  of  State  St.  every  15  min.  for  Gro- 


74:         Itvutc  S. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


1 


■*  ;;.' 


1?  '■  i 


ton.     ^  M.  E.  of  tlie  old  Fort,  Col.  Ledyard  is  buried  under  a  monument 
erected  by  the  State. 

New  London  if>  Iniilt  on  a  declivity,  which  is  ascended  by  State  St.  from 
the  II.  R.  Station  to  tlie  County  Court  House,  passing  on  the  r.  the  brown- 
stone  City  Hall  and  Post  Ollice,  and  a  fine  Cong.  Church  of  granite  with 
a  spire  of  the  same  material.  Near  tlie  Court  House  is  St.  James'  Epis- 
copal Church,  a  large  brown-stono  c'difice  in  whose  chancel  is  buried 
Samuel  Seabury,  the  first  Anglican  bishop  in  the  Republic.  The  English 
bishops  (in  1784)  would  not  consecrate  him,  })ut  the  ollice  was  performed 
by  3  bishops'  of  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church,  after  which  he  preached 
at  New  Loiidon  for  12  years.  On  Federal  St.  in  a  lofty  situation  is  a 
massive  and  extensive  Cong.  Church,  near  which  is  an  ancient  cemetery 
^vhich  overlooks  the  harbor.  The  lofty  towered  new  stliool-house  on  the 
hill,  and  the  sp,  ?iou'  (but  unli'n.shcd)  Catholic  Church  on  Huntington 
St.  are  fine  buildings.  1  M.  N.  is  Cedar  Grove  Cemetery,  Bank  St.  is 
the  main  business  avenue  of  the  city.  Fort  Trumbull  is  a  massive  and 
powerful  granite  fortress  with  a  heavy  armament,  but  built  too  near  the 
city  to  keep  it  unscathed. 

"  New  London  is  a  stagnant  old  town,  where  nothing  moves  except  the  fish 
and  tlie  boats  in  the  harbor.  Tlie  natives,  who  loiter  around  oovfier  groceries  and 
fisli-stalls,  live  ho  suinuolently  that,  when  nnything  happens,  they  pinch  them- 
selves to  (letermine  if  they  are  awake.  Catching  fish  and  eating  them  compre- 
hend the  whole  of  existence, ;  and  sitting  in  the  shadf  .md  smoking,  the  highest 
'uxuries  they  long  for."  Such  is  Junius  lirowue's  slightly  exaggerated  descrip- 
tion. 

Cod  and  whale  fishing  is  extensively  carried  on  from  this  port,  and  in 
the  summer  of  1872,  6  vessels  sailed  thence  to  hunt  seals  about  the  S. 
Shetland  Isles. 

The  Harbor  road  leads  by  Fort  Trumbull,  and  through  a  line  of  cot- 
tages, in  3  -  4  M.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  near  which  is  the  *  Pequot 
House,  a  costly  and  exclusive  aristocratic  resort,  wliich  accommodates 
al-viut  500  guests,  at  $5  a  day  each.  A  village  cf  pretty  cottages  has 
grown  up  in  this  vicinity.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Thames  is  the 
Ocean  House  (quieter  and  much  less  expensive)  and  Thon\pson's  Hotel. 

Steamers  rnn  twice  daily  (in  summer)  to  Watch  Hill  Point.  A  line  runs  also  to 
Siig  Harbor,  Long  Island.  Two  steamers  leave  daily  for  New  York  (distance  126 
JI.)  by  the  Norwielt  Line. 

The  New  London  Northern  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  runs  N.  W. 
from  this  city  to  Pahner,  Amherst,  and  the  State  of  Vermont. 

After  leaving  New  London  the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  passes  Waterford 
(Niantic  Hotel,)  and  E.  Lyme,  Avhere  at  the  village  of  Niantic  (Howard 
House),  on  the  bay  o  the  same  name,  are  found  fishing  and  boating  ad- 
vantages. This  ten  ory,  from  the  Thames  to  the  Connecticut,  was 
formerly  held  by  the  Niantic  Indians,  a  clan  of  the  Narragansetts,  who 
under  their  sachem,  Ninigret  (brother  of  Canonicus,  and  uncle  of  Mian- 


1 


iO 


1*1 

Ik  ' . 


BOSTON  TO  NP:W  YORK. 


Route  S. 


75 


and  in 
the  S. 


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Mian- 


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tonomoh)  conquered  the  Long  Island  Indians.  Tlie  colonies  declared 
war  against  Ninigret  twice,  on  absurd  pretexts,  hut  )ie  escaped  without 
fighting,  though  his  territories  were  ravaged,  and  in  King  Philip's  War 
he  kept  his  people  from  attacking  the  English.  His  great-grandson  was 
sachem  of  the  clan  in  1746,  and,  selling  the  reservation  in  Lyme,  moved 
his  people  to  the  Oneida  country  in  New  York.  Lyme  was  settled  in 
1664,  and  long  disputed  about  its  boundaries  with  New  London,  until 
two  champions  were  chosen  by  each  plantation,  wlio  met  on  the  debata- 
ttle  ground,  and  in  a  pugilistic  contest,  in  which  the  Lyme  men  were 
victorious,  their  town  secured  the  boundary  which  it  claimed.  Sliortly 
after  passing  the  venerable  hamlet  of  Old  Lyme  (on  the  r.)  the  railroad 
crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a  long  bridge,  and  stops  at  Saybrook, 
whence  trains  on  the  Conn.  Valley  R.  R.  run  S.  to  Saybrook  Point  and 
the  shore. 

On  Saybrook  Point  a  fort  was  built  by  Plynioutli  in  1G35,  and  wcli  armed, 
several  of  the  cannon  reinainiri;,'  here  in  ISOO.  In  1G;!(J  Col.  T'cnwick  came  here  to 
rule  llie  plantation,  which  v.as  ii.inied  in  honor  of  Lord  Kay  and  Selc,  and  Lord 
Brook.  In  1037  the  Peqnots  nmhushed  and  destroyed  a  delachment  near  tho 
fort,  and  atttinpted  to  carry  tlie  ^vorki^  by  as.sault,  but  were  received  with  such 
di.schar;j;cs  of  grapcshot  that  they  f^ave  it  \\\>,  and,  capturing  .several  vessels 
above  the  Point,  pat  their  crews  to  death  with  horrible  tortures.  Lady  Fenwiek 
•  lied  in  1648,  and  her  husband  sold  the  territory  to  Conn.,  retunujd  to  England, 
and  was  one  of  the  re,'jicide.iud;;cs.  Tho  iort  effectually  iirevente''.  Dutch  vessels 
from  ascending  to  reinforce  Ilartforc'.,  and  in  1G7j  forced  Andros's  fleet  to  lie  out- 
siue  of  the  river,  ypringfielil  vessels  refused  to  pay  the  toll  demanded  at  tho 
Fort,  and  appealed  to  Mass.,  which  put  a  toll  on  all  Conn,  vessels  cnterng  Boston 
Harbor,  and  socm  enforced  a  coloniiil  rei-iprocity.  In  170L  Yale  College  was 
chartered  and  locoted  at  Saybrook,  and  remained  tliere  1707-  li ,  where  it  held  its 
fuot  15  coinnien(!emeats.  It  then  occuitied  a  one-story  building  80  ft.  long  on  the 
]icninsula  near  the  Fort.  The  celebrated  Saybrook  Platform  was  drawn  up  hero 
in  1708,  because  "the  churches  nuist  have  a  public  profession  of  faith  agreeable 
to  which  the  instruction  of  t!.e  college  shall  be  conducted."  On  Good  Friday, 
1811,  400  ]]ritish  sailors,  in  the  boats  of  the  "  La  Ilogue,"  74,  took  the  Fort  and 
ascended  the  river  iiO  M.  destroying  ■J7  vessels.  The  commander  of  this  raid  was 
Hir  AVilliam  E.  Parry,  afterwards  lamous  for  his  Arctic,  voyages.  "The  .steep, 
solitary  hill  near  the  river,  '  on  which  still  stood  the  remains  of  the  Fort,  was  cut 
away  by  the  railroad  in  1S71-2,  to  make  embankments  with.  It  is  fortu:iatc  that 
the  Acropolis  .and  the  temples  of  Baalbcc  are  not  in  America. 

In  the  cemetery  at  Saybrook  Point  is  the  transplanted  monument  of 
Lady  Fenwiek,  and  H  -  2  LI.  beyond  is  the  quiet,  elm-shaded,  and  wealthy 
village  of  Old  Saybrook. 

The  railroad  now  runs  across  a  wide  cove,  and  stops  close  to  *  Fenwiek 
Hall,  an  elegant  new  hotel,  accommodating  300  guests. 

A  stony  strand  leads  to  Lynde's  Point  on  the  E.  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  with  its  lighthouse.  On  the  W.,  near  Cornfield  Point,  is  a  small 
Ijathing-beach.  Several  fine  -ottages  are  near  Fenwiek  Hall,  from  which 
the  Long  Lsland  shore  is  seen.  In  seasons  of  long  adverse  winds,  a  fleet 
of  150-200  sail  sometimes  collects  in  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Steamers  running  between  Hartford  and  the  river  villages  and  New  York,  New 
London,  and  Sag  Harbor  touch  at  Saybrook  Point. 
The  Connecticut  Valley  R.  R.  runs  from  Saybrook  Point  to  Hartford  (Route  14). 


70       Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


■i 


^' 


After  Saybrook,  the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  passes  Westbrook  (Westbrook 
Hotel)  and  Clinton  (Clinton  House,  Bacon  House),  near  which,  on  tlie 
N.,  is  the  pretty  and  sechided  village  of  Killingworth  {RedfieliTs  11  aid) 
where  Asahel  Nettleton,  the  evangelist,  was  born  in  1783.  The  Indian 
name  of  this  place  was  Hammonasset,  but  the  settlers  changed  it  to  Kenil- 
worth,  which  was  registered,  by  accident,  Killingworth.  Tlie  pastor  of 
this  parish  was  chosen  first  President  of  Yale  College,  but  as  he  refused 
to  go  to  Saybrook,  the  students  were  obliged  to  come  to  him,  and  so  the 
college  was  practically  here,  1701  -7,  though  holding  its  commencements 
at  Saybrook.  Longfellow's  poem,  "The  Birds  of  Killingworth,"  will  l)e 
remembered  here.  Stations,  lifaditmi  (Hammonasset  House),  7'].  River, 
and  Guilford.  Guilford  (Guilford  House)  was  settled  by  4  immigrants 
from  Kent  and  Surrey  in  1639,  on  the  Indian  tract  billed  Menuncatuck, 
Tliey  were  led  by  their  pastor,  Henry  Whitcfield/'a  man  of  marvellous 
majesty  and  sanctity."  The  regicides  were  hidden  here  for  some  time, 
and  in  1781  3  frigates  landed  a  force  near  the  village,  but  the  rapidly 
gathering  militia  drove  them  off.  During  the  extermination  of  the 
Pequots,  in  1637,  the  Mohegan  Sachem  Uncas  pursued  a  Pequot  chief  to 
this  point,  and  having  shot  him  on  the  shore,  put  his  head  in  the  fork  of 
an  oak-tree,  Avliere  it  stayed  many  years,  and  the  point  is  still  called 
Sachem's  Head. 

Fitz  Green  Il.illook,  the  versatile  poet,  was  born  at  Guilford  in  17^0,  and  in  his 
later  years  retired  here  and  li\-('d  on  a  handsome  pension  allowed  him  by  the  As- 
tors,  of  New  York.     lie  died  in  1S07. 

"\V.  II.  II.  Murray,  the  i)oi)ular  i)ulpit  orator,  and  pastor  of  Park  St.  Church, 
Boston,  since  18G8,  was  born  at  Guilford  in  1840. 

The  village  is  a  very  pretty  one,  built  around  an  extensive  tree-studded 
and  enclosed  green,  on  which  5  chiirches  front. 

Near  the  village  on  the  S.  is  Guilford  Point  (Pavilion,  Guilford  Point 
House,  &c. ),  and  across  the  harbor  is  the  bold  and  picturesque  promontory 
of  Sachem's  Head,  where  formerly  stood  a  large  hotel. 

Station,  Stony  Creek  (Stony  Creek,  Brainerd,  Thimble  Island,  and  In- 
dian Point  Houses,  all  small  and  inexpensive),  famed  for  its  large  and 
delicif^us  oysters.  The  romantic  group  of  the  Thimble  Islands  lies  off 
shore  here,  and  may  be  reached  by  boat  from  the  Indian  Point  Hotel 
(25-  50.C. ).  Oil  Money  and  Pot  Islands  ai'e  small  and  primitive  hotels,  with 
cabins  and  cottages,  while  around  and  between  these  rocky  and  wooded 
islets  rowing  and  sailing  is  full  of  pleasant  surprises.  Money  Island  was 
one  of  the  rover  Capt.  Kidd's  resorts,  and  it  has  been  dug  all  over  by 
treasure-seekers. 

Station,  Branford,  (Branford  House  ,  on  land  sold  by  the  Sachem 
of  Quinnipiac  to  the  English  in  1638,  he  being  glad  to  get  an  ally  against 
the  dreaded  Mohawks.  It  was  named  from  Brentford,  where  Edmund 
Ironside  fought  the  Danes.     The  shore  hereabouts  is  lined  with  sum- 


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BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Jioule  8.       77 


mcr  hotels,  — tlie  Montana,  Sea  View,  Totoeket,  Pino  Ordianl,  &p.  On 
Indian  Neck  are  the  Indian  Neck  and  Montowese  (200  guests)  Houses, 
hoth  about  2  M.  from  Hranfnrd  station.  At  the  head  of  "  the  rocky- 
shored  and  ishmd-sprinkh'd  bay  of  Branford  "  is  the  hirgo  •  IJraiifonl 
Point  House  (1(JO-200  guests),  distant  8  iM.  from  New  Haven,  and  near 
by  is  the  favorite  Doubh'  Beach  House  (100  guests,  §3-3.50  a  day). 

In  lGOr»,  tlie  colonies  of  Hartford  and  New  Haven  were  united  by  royal 
order  and  Ihe  coninion  ronsent.  The  i>eoj)le  of  Branford  had  steadily 
opposfd  this  union,  and  wlien  it  was  consuinniated,  tliey  moved  in  a  solid 
bo<ly,  headed  by  their  pastor,  and  bearing  uU  their  household  goods,  to 
Newark,  N.  J.,  and  the  site  of  Branford  wa.s  silent  and  deserted  for 
years. 

Stati(m,  K.  llavev,  an  ancient  resort  of  r  (.  Indians  (for  oysters,  &c. ), 
and  the  seat  of  iron-works  in  IO'jj,  now  has  large  eopper-snu'lting  works. 
The  train  now  j)asse.s  Saltonstall  Lake,  crosses  the  Quinuipiac  Iliver,  runs 
through  Fairhavcn,  and  enters 

New  Haven. 

Hotels.  *  New  Haven  Ilnuso.  comor  CdlU'Re  and  Cliapol  Sta.,  opposite  the 
College,  ^4-4. r)()  a  day;  ''Tontiin  Ildtd,  conuT  C'uirch  and  Court  Sts.,  a  quiet 
old  liouso  fronting  the  Green,  1^3  a  day  ;  Treniont  House;  Turk  Uou.se;  Madisun 
House,  &c. 

Kcstaurants.  Lockwofxl's  Dining- Rooms  near  tlie  Park  ;  the  Florence  House, 
I.'niou  .St.,  and  tor  a  lunch,  lloudlcy's, Hear  the  cojlc;,'!'  and  a  famous  resort  of  the 
students.     The  best  oysters  may  lie  hail  in  Fairhavcn. 

Carriages.  The  regular  taritf  is  uO  c.  for  one  jiassenger  for  one  eourse  in  the 
city,  or  for  two  passen;;ers  li.'i  c.  each. 

if  orHe-Cars  (head-(iuarters  at  the  foot  of  the  Oreen)  run  to  Fairhaveu  ami 
i;.  Haven,  to  W.  Chapel  St.,  to  Westville  and  W.  Rock,  to  Centreville,  to  E. 
Hock,  and  in  summer  to  \V.   Haven  and  .Savin  Rock. 

Telegraph  Offices.  Western  Union,  ou  ("hapel  St..  near  R.  R.  Station  ; 
I'lanklin  Co.,  on  State,  near  Chapel  St.    Post  « flliee  on  (Jhurch  St.  near  Chapel  St. 

Keadiiig-Ilooing.  In  the  hotels,  and  at  the  Voun;^'  Men's  Institute,  I'hcenix 
liiiildin;^',  Chapel  St.  Also  at  the  Youiii,'  .Men's  Christian  Assocdation  rooms,  over 
the  City  Rank,  corner  of  Chai)el  ami  Orani^e  Sts. 

/•.musenients.  Po])ular  lectures,  theatrical  entei-fainments,  concerts,  &e. 
are  fretpiently  held  in  Music  Hall  (aceonuuodating  2,.0uO  jtersons)  ou  Crown  St. 
between  Temple  and  Church  Sts. 

Ivitllroatls.  At  this  jioint  converge  the  New  Haven,  New  London,  aad  Ston- 
in^ton  R.  R.  (see  preceding'  p.aues)  ;  the  New  Haven,  Midilletown,  and  Williman- 
tc  (AirLme  route,  Bost<tn  to  New  York)  ;  the  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Spriny- 
licM  R.  R.  (grand  route  from  Boston  to  New  York,  via  Spriiiglield)  ;  the  New  Haven 
and  Northampton  (Canal)  R.  R.  ;  the  New  Haven  and  Derby  R.  R.  ;  and  the 
New  York  and  New  Haven  R.  R,  which  is  tlie  last  division  of  all  three  of  the 
1  ind  routes  from  Boston  (see  succeeding  pages). 

Steamboats.  Steamers  leave  for  New  York  twice  daily  (moming  and  even- 
ing) m.iUing  the  voyage  in  ■>  hours.  Fare  8L  <linner  and  state-rooms  extra.  The 
Citizens'  Line  runs  boats  to  New  York  every  morning.  Steamers  run  (in  summer, 
4  times  daily)  to  the  beaches  at  the  mouth  of  the  harl)or. 

Stages  run  from  New  Haven  to  Hartford  via  Durham,  to  North  Branford  and 
Deejj  River,  &c. 

John  Davenport  (of  Magdalen  College),  a  powerful  jiarish  pastor  of  T^ondon, 
joined  the  Puritan  wing  of  the  Anglican  Chundi,  and  in  MYM  was  forced  to  leave 
Lnglaud,  with  many  of  his  peojiie.  After  nearly  a  year's  sojourn  at  Boston,  he 
set  sail  with  his  people,  ami  landed  at  Quinniiiiac.'the  pre.sent  site  of  New  liuven. 


4i 


^^' 


111 


4' 


.1* 


78       Route  S. 


BOSTON  TO  NKW  YORK. 


in  April,  ](]:\H.  His  wah  "  Mie  iiir  st,  opiilt-iit  c«»l(Hiy  whicih  oanio  into  New  Knj^- 
Ifind,"  un<l  tlicy  laid  out  a  city  witli  '.•  Hiiuarcs  fm-  IniililiiiK's  ('ncloaln^;  a  large  cen- 
tral .s<iuart'  (the  (ireen),  lh<>u;,'li  tliuir  lioiiscs  only  oc*  iiiiit'tl  tarn  a  small  apace  on 
tiie  present  (leor^P  Mt.,  between  Cluircli  iiinl  ('ol!ej,'e  tSts.  The?  colony  was  K«v- 
erned  for  many  yoara  by  its  7  most  prominent  chnrcli-meniliers,  niter  a  cnrions 
and  impressive  sermon  by  Davenport  troin  the  text,  '*  Wisdom  hatli  builded  her 
house  ;  she  hath  hewn  out  lier  7  iiillars."  One  of  tlie  diiff  of  these  was  the 
pure  and  learned  Davenport,  who  was  revered  by  the  Indians  as  "  so  big  study 
man,"  and  for  whom  Cotton  Mather  composed 

"Epitaphiutn  .lohnaniicN  DuvcnpnrtuR,  in  Portiitn  dclatuf. 

VivuH,  Nov-Anjiliip  oc  KcclfHitt!  Orniiiiicnt'ini, 

Murtuus,  utriusquu  trJHtc  Ui-Hldvriuiii." 

In  10.'}8  the  7  pillars  bought  of  the  Indians  l:tO  scpiare  M.  of  laml  for  13  eoatii, 
and  in  1UM!»  the  trucident  Nepaupiick  was  tried  for  munler  and  l)ehea(led  on  the 
(jreen,  where  his  heail  was  long  exposed.  Tiie  tratiing-itosts  ol  New  Haven  on 
the  Delaware  River  were  broken  up  by  the  Swedes,  and  other  losses  combined 
to  discourage  the  settlers,  who  resolved  to  go  to  Jamaica,  and  tiien  c(»nipleted 
negotiations  to  buy  Galloway,  in  Ireland.  The  shiii  whicli  bore  their  "commer- 
cial esUites,"  sailed  under  Capt.  Lanil>ert(tn  for  (Jalloway,  in  .Jan.,  1647,  but  never 
was  heard  from  aftcirwards,  save  when,  as  the  legend  says,  the  spectre  of  the  shij) 
sailed  into  the  harbor  in  the  teeth  of  a  head-wind,  ami  wlicn  in  full  view  of  the 
anxious  ite(ti)Ie,  it  slowly  melted  into  thin  air,  and  vanished.  The  colonists 
remained  at  New  Haven,  and  in  lG(i5  thl..  plantation  was  united  with  that  of  Con- 
necticut (Hartford)  on  comlition  that  each  town  should  retain  the  dignity  of  cap- 
ital ;  so  to  this  day  the  State  lias  two  semi-capitals.  In  1755,  the  "Conn.  Gazette  " 
was  established  here,  and  became  the  pioneer  of  the  8  weekly  and  semiweekly, 
and  the  :i  daily  i)apers  of  New  Haven.  In  Jan.,  1701,  7  companies  of  militia  and 
the  council  convened,  and  proclaimed  George  III.  King,  drinking  to  him,  the 
royal  family,  and  the  King  of  Prussia.  In  1775,  Ilenedict  Arnold  (afterwards  so 
fanujus  and  infamous)  led  to  Canjbridge  the  Governor's  Guards,  the  best  company 
in  the  army.  At  sunrise,  July  5th,  177i>,  1,500-2,000  Hessians  and  Tories  were 
landed  at  W.  Haven  Point,  from  48  Uritish  vessels.  They  took  tin;  fort  and 
town,  which  they  plundered  and  jtartially  burnt.  They  were  much  galled  by  the 
militia  who  hovered  on  their  flanks  ami  fought  them  in  the  streets.  Rev.  Dr. 
Napthali  Daggett,  President  of  Vale  College,  was  caiitured  by  them  with  fowling- 
piece  ill  hand,  and  forced  to  guide  their  columns.  When  wellnigh  dead  from 
mortllii!ation,  and  sore  from  rejteated  bayonet-wounds,  he  was  asked,  "Will  you 
Ijgiit  again  ?  "  The  militant  divine  answered,  "I  rather  believe  I  shall,  if  I  have 
an  opportunity."  He  or  another  pa.stor  of  the  town  was  forced  to  ] tray  for  the 
King,  which  he  did  as  follows:  "(>  Lord,  ))less  thy  servant  King  George,  and 
grant  him  wisdom,  for  thou  knowest,  O  Lord,  he  needs  it."  Yale  College  was 
transferred  to  New  Haven  in  1717.  In  1820  the  town  had  8,:i20  inhabitants  ;  in 
1870  50,840. 

New  Haven,  "The  City  of  Elms,"  a,  .semi-capital  of  Conn.,  is  built  on 
a  flat,  alluvial  plain,  at  the  head  of  a  bay  which  sets  in  from  Long  Island 
Sound.  It  is  a  handsome  city,  of  modem  appearance,  rich  in  stately  elm- 
trees,  and  surrounded  by  picturesque  hills.  The  city  has  a  large  West 
India  trade,  and  has  about  §10,000,000  invested  in  manufactures,  which 
in  3869  turned  out  6,000  hay-cutters,  50,000  scales,  200,000  corsets,  1,200 
Eureka  organs,  600  Colibri  pianos,  and  about  20  carriages  daily.  Fish- 
lines,  saws,  Baumgarten  church-organs,  and  cars  are  also  made  in  great 
numbers,  while  Sargent  &  Co.  employ  SOO  men  in  vast  hardware  works. 
Chapel,  State,  and  Church  are  the  principal  streets,  the  two  former  in- 
tersecting near  the  cavernous  railroad  station.  There  are  several  hand- 
some chtirches  here,  and  a  very  interesting  old  cemetery  (on  Grove  St., 
at  the  head  of  High). 


.*/ 


9 


BOSTON'  TO  XKW  YORK. 


A'  ./'/■<•  S.       70 


Aiii(»nK  tliost'  ImritMl  lien*  ait*  Jt'liiuli  Aslnniiii,  a.'ctit,  fDrlilhT,  ami  <leftMi<I('r  of 


Libel 


Arth 


4 


Tuj. 


Ml 


ihilaiilli 


111 


Jro.s.swt'U,  U.  U.,  (ItiHliiug 
ixilitioal  editor,  '80'J-'U,  an.i  ivitur  of  Triuilv  Cliinvh.  Now  Hiivrii,  1H15-08  ;  N. 
W.  Taylor,  D.  .  .,  n  <lisci|iii'  of  KilwanlH  ami  prolcHHor  of  didartic  tlii'olo^ify  in 
Yale,  IS^a-M;  Lj-Tiiaii  Ueeclier,  D.  I).,  "the  most  widely  known  nnd  intliieiitiiil 
preacher  in  the  eountry,  between  181 ')  and  1851  "  ;  Tiniotiiy  l)wi;,'ht,  I>.  I).,  nran<l- 
Hon  of  Jonathan  Edwards,  a  <iistiti^'iiish»  d  theolo','iaii  and  i>oet,  and  I'n'Hident  of 
Yale,  1705-1817,  who  rode  horseltael<  through  New  Knj;laiid  and  N.  Y.  and  inilv 
lished  an  aecnimt  of  it  in  4  vnliiines,  also  a  system  of  llieolo;,'y  in  T)  volmnes  ;  I)en- 
ison  Olmsted,  LL.  I).,  jirofessor  of  natnral  philosnidiy  and  astronomy  at  Yali», 
18'J>-59,  and  h  ji'-olonnd  astronomer;  C.  A.  (ioodrieh,  l>.  !>.,  theohvian  ami 
lexieo'^'rajdier,  ])r()tessor  of  rlntoric  at  Yale,  1817 -li.*;  Noali  Welister,  LL.  I)., 
anthor  and  pnlilieist,  whose  "  Kleuieiitary  Spellinj^'-Rook  "  had  a  sale  of  r<0,()no,0(tO 
copies,  and  who  iirepared  (1>S(»7 -"JS)  and  jmblished  a  Hictionary  of  tiie  Km^lish 
lan^^na^'e  whieii  has  since  been  tiie  standard  ;  Henjamin  Sillinian,  jirofessor  of 
eliemistry  nt  Yale,  1802 -.'>.'■),  one  of  the  ioremost  scientists  of  his  time  ;  .leiiodiali 
Morse,  I).  D.,  "  the  father  of  American  Kcography";  S.  F.  H.  Morse  (Ixtrn  17itl, 
died  1872),  who,  in  18U,  put  in  operation  tlie  tlrst  electrii^  tele;,'raph  in  the  U.  S., 
who  was  covered  with  honors  by  Kiiroi>ean  sovereij^ns  and  societies,  and  in  18.')7, 
was  jtresented  with  4t)«),0iH)  fran<'s  liy  a  continental  assembly  at  I'aris  ;  ElbridKO 
Gerry,  Vice-l'residcnt  of  tlie  U.  «.,  181J-  10  ;  U.  S.  Skinner,  (Jov.  of  Conn.,  1H44- 
6,  and  U.  H.  Senator,  1847-51  ;  David  Da^CKctt.  sometime  ('iiief  .Instice,  nnd  II.  .S. 
Senator,  18in-l!>  ;  S.  W.  S.  Dutton,  I).  1).,  and  (iov.  Henry  Dutton  ;  I'rnf.  Mur- 
doek  and  Sidney  K.  Morse  ;  .James  llillhouse,  U.  S.  Senator,  17i»4  -ISK),  antl  James 
A.  Hillhon.se,  tlie  ]io(!t  of  Sachem's  Wood  ;  Andrew  H.  Foote,  Kear  admiral  U.  S. 
Navy,  lH)rn  in  New  Haven,  18()(i,  died  18(5;{.  He  foiij^lit  tht;  West  India  nnd 
Sumatra  jiirattis,  ami  in  1856  attacked  tlie  4  IJarrier-Forts  at  Canton,  China,  with 
the  "  Portsnionth 'i  and  "  Ijevant."  After  a  bomb:irdnient,  at  the  head  of  280 
men,  ho  landed  and  stormed  the  forts  in  aucecHsion,  thoii;,'li  they  were  lieavy 
granite  works,  monntiny  170  cannon,  and  defended  by  5,000  men.  In  1802  (Fel^  - 
April)  in  u  shttrt,  sharp  campaign  at  the  head  of  the  iron-cla<l  s(piadron  on  tlio 
Tennessee  and  Missi.ssipjti  Rivers,  he  a.ssiste,d  in  the  niduetion  of  Forts  Henry, 
Donelson,  and  Island  No.  10.  He  was  a  very  religious  man,  and  was  accustomed 
to  prea(!h  to  his  sailors  every  Sunday. 

Jonathan  Knight,  professor  of  surgery  at  Yale,  18:58-04  ;  James  L.  Kingsley, 
proiessor  of  Hebrew,  Greek,  and  Latin,  at  Yale,  1805-51;  David  Humphreys, 
the  aid-de-camp  and  friend  of  Washington,  and  minister  to  Portugal  and  Spain, 
1790-1802;  Theophilus  Eaton,  Gov.  (if  the  New  Haven  colony,  1038-57  ;  Roger 
Sherman,  from  1774  to  1703  a  member  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and  a  signer 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  who  "never  said  a  loolish  thing  in  his  life" 
(JetTerson)  ;  Theodore  Winthrop,  the  knightly  soldier  (author  of  "  Cecil  Dreeme," 
"  Canoe  and  Saddle,"  &c.),  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  (ireat  Jlethel,  June.  10, 
1801  ;  Ezra  Stiles,  long  Presiilent  of  Yale  ;  and  Eli  Whitney,  the  inventor  of  the 
cotton-gin. 

Among  the  broad  streets  lined  with  noble  elms  which  extend  on  the  N. 
£ind  W.  of  the  Green,  the  most  beautiful  is  Hillhouse  Ave.,  a  broad, 
park-like  drive,  flanked  by  line  mansions,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  man- 
sion and  domain,  "  Sachem's  Wood,"  belonging  tc  the  Hillhouses.  In 
the  W.  part  of  the  city  is  the  Orphan  Asylum,  Alnu'  House,  and  County 
Prison.  But  the  chief  intere.st  of  New  Haven  centr(!s  in  and  about  the 
Public  Green.  Here,  on  Church  St.  is  the  City  Hall,  one  of  the  most 
elegant  municipal  buildings  in  New  England,  and  the  Third  Cong.  Church. 
On  Chapel  St.  is  the  lofty  and  pretentious  new  mercantile  building  of 
Hoadley.  The  Public  Green  itself  is  a  great  lawn,  studded  with  fine 
trees,  and  often  used  for  parades.  The  North,  Centre,  and  Trinity 
churches  stand  in  line  near  the  middle  of  the  Green  (the  first  two  are 
Cong.,  and  the  last  is  Ei>iscopal),  and  preserve  a  curiously  ancient  appear- 


* 


I; 

- 1 

I 


1'  ■  I 


80 


/.'.'*//.■  .V. 


TIOSTON  TO  NEW  YollK. 


ance.  Bmk  of  the CViitn- Chun li  is  tin-  mominit'iit  to  the  ro;?irith',  .Tolui 
Dixwcll,  a  iiuinltcr  of  a  iiroiniiiciit  Kentish  fiimily,  a  coloiul  in  tlu!  Par 
li.iiiu'iitiirv  army,  an<l  a  nit'Tii'KT  of  tlic  llritish  State  Cotuicil,  who  flcil  to 
Nfw  Hiivon  nt  the  Host  oration.  Near  him  is  htirioM  a  fellow  jiulj^'f, 
Ivlwunl  Whallty.  On  tlu'  I'uldir  firron,  near  Teniplo  St.,  is  the?  State 
House,  a  Imildin^'  in  tho  sinip'c  ami  imposinj^  Crrcrian  Doric  nn-hiteeturt-, 
hut  const ructod  of  brick  an<l  stmco,  and  jircscnting  a  very  dingy  a[)iu'ar- 
anco.  Th(5  h'gishitnre  moots  hero  on  thoevon-numliorod  years  (1S72,  ISJ!, 
fee.)  and  the  alternate  years  tin;  sessions  aro  lield  at  Hartford.  Teni])h) 
St.,  with  a  glt)rious  •(Jotliic  aroli  of  elm-treos,  separates  tlie  (ireon  frf)ni 
the  groiintls  of 

Yale  College. 

In  tlio  year  17<'0  ten  eler;;ynien  jilanned  to  erect  a  collejjo  in  tlio  colony  of 
Conn.,  and  to  fiirtlier  tliat  end,  contntnited  as  ninny  txioks  as  tliey  ((H.id  Rjwire, 
1'or  its  liliiary.  In  17ni,  it  was  ciiarteieii,  mid  its  eiasses  riM'ited  at  Kiilinnwoitli 
nntii  1707,  wiieii  it  reiiiov«'<l  to  Sayiirook  Point,  and  in  1717  a  tliial  remove  (it  iM 
liopcd)  w;is  made  to  New  Haven,  At  an  early  date  tiie  eoilene  v.as  named  in 
honor  of  lililiii  Yale  (born  at  New  Haven  in  l«iiS),  (iov.  of  Madras,  and  afterwards 
(iov.   of  tlie    Kast.   India  I'oiiipaiiv,   wlio  pive  £A()0  towards   its  snpjiort.     Tlio 

Presidents  of  Yale  :  'I'i thy  Dwi-lit.  Mzra  .stiles,  Tlieodore  P.  Woolsey  (isid- 71), 

iiml  others,  will  eoiiipare  f.ivoiaMy  with  the  eurrespoiidin;;  otileers  of  Harvard. 
Alter  the  se(iilarizatfi>n  of  llarvanl  liiiveisity,  the  Orthoijox  ehnrelinien  rallied 
on  Yale.  This  eiille-;e  has  done  a  iioMe  work  of  education,  and  especially  in 
KJuipiiiK  and  slreii;,'tlieniii;;  thos"  niintis  of  L'onn.  which  have  been  so  bnsy  and 
lionorcd  throii^dioiit  the  Hepiililic. 

.Said  De  Toc(|iieville  in  a  Poiiith  of  .Tnly  dinner  at  Paris  :  "  Von  day  I  vas  in  tho 
f^allery  t  r  the  lloii.se  of  nepresciit.it ives.  I  held  in  my  hand  a  nuip  of  the  Con- 
federation. Dere  vas  one  Icctle  yellow  spot  called  Conneet-de-eoot.  1  fonnd 
by  do  Constitution  he  was  entitled  to  six  of  his  boys  to  rejjre.scnt  him  on  dat 
tluor.  lUit  when  I  make  the  acquaintance  ]iersonelle  with  the  member,  I  find 
•lat  more  than  tiity  (:i(>)  of  the  Keprcsentative  on  dat  tloor  w.is  born  in  Connect- 
tle-coot.  .\iid  dell  ven  I  vas  in  tie  gallery  of  the  Honse  of  the  .Senate,  I  llnd  de 
Constitution  permit  dis  .State  to  send  two  of  his  boys  to  represent  liim  in  dat 
le^dslatnre.  Hnt  once  more,  ven  I  make  de  aetpiaintance  jiersonelle  of  the 
Senator,  I  lind  nine  of  the  .Senator  was  born  in  Conneet-de-Coot. 

".\nd  now  for  my  j.'iand  sentiment -- Conne<'t-de-Coot,  the  leetlo  yellow  spot 
dat  niakc  de  cloek-iledler,  the  schooliiiast<'r,  and  the  Senator  ;  de  tirst  give  yon 
time,  tho  second  till  you  what  to  do  with  him,  and  de  third  make  ycmr  law  and 
civilization." 

The  line  of  ancient  Imildings  fronting  on  Temple  St.  compri.se.s  S. 
College  (bnilt  1793),  Athenanini  (built  for  a  chapel,  17t)l),  S.  Middle 
College  (175(1),  Lyceum  and  N.  Middle  College  (1803),  Chapel  (1824), 
N.  College  (1822),  and  Division  College  (1835).  These  a'-e  used  for 
dormitories  ami  recitation  rooms,  as  i.s  also  Durfee  Hall  (1871,)  and 
Farnum  Hall  (1872),  two  handsome  new  buildings  on  the  N.  end.  Three 
line  buildings  are  aligned  on  lligli  St.,  on  the  N.  the  Alumni  Hall,  a 
a  neat  red-.sandstone  building  with  v  large  hall  in  which  are  hupg  portraits 
of  many  distinguished  graduates.  In  this  Hall  are  conducted  tl»e  ex- 
aminations of  new  men,  the  Commencement  e.xerci.ses,  and  the  meetings 
of  the  alumni.  The  liinonian  S(jciety  and  the  Brothers  in  l^^nity  have 
halls  iu  this  building.     Next  S.  i.s  the  ornate  turreted  building  of  the 


I 


» 


•4- 


it'T:, 


BOSTON  TC  NKVV  YORK. 


lioutf  S. 


81 


I 


1^ 


I 


College  Lilirnry,  with  mirnerouH  ivy-vincH  (|»lante«l  with  ureut  <*frt'mony 
by  fitch  gmtluiitiiiK  'liiMH)  cliinbiiiK  up  its  Miiiulstotit;  wuIIh.  Thu  liilimry 
I'oiituiiis  S>0,(MH)  voIuiniit'H.  Nt'Xt  8.  is  tho  Ohl  C'oiuiuoiih'  Hall,  now  um«'«1 
for  li'cturt'-rooius,  and  for  the  disjilay  of  tho  great  gt'ologinil  caltiiiets, 
fn'.,  prcparol  hy  Silliman,  in  which  is  the  (Jihits  collection  of  2;'), (KM) 
.specimens,  indmling  several  Eiiroitean  collections.  Next  conies  the  costly 
modern  b.iilding  ol  the  Art  (Jallery  (see  below).  Among  the  smalltr 
houses  on  the  S((uare  are  the  old  Trumluill  (iallery,  and  the  little  labora- 
tory formerly  used  by  the  elder  Silliman,  and  preserved  as  a  relic  of  that 
eminent  scientist.  Tlu!  (Jymnasium  (said  to  lie  the  best  in  the  U.S.)  is 
on  Library  St.,  and  the  boat-liouse  of  the  Yale  Navy  i-t  m^ar  'I'ondinson's 
Ihidge.  Curious  l)uildings  near  the  square  are  occupied  by  the  college 
8o<'ieiies  :  the  Psi  Upsilon,  on  High,  near  College  St.  ;  the  Delta  Kajipa 
Kpsilon,  on  York,  near  Library  St.  ;  tlu^  Scndl  an<l  Keys,  corner  Wall  and 
('(jllege  Sts.,  &c.  Yale  is  jjroperly  a  University,  having,  besides  its  large 
academic  dei)artment,  the  Slu'llield  Siiciitilic  S''hool,  in  a  line  building  on 
CJrove  St.,  with  llO-  1^0  students  ;  the  Law  School,  on  Church  St.,  near 
the  City  Hall  ;  the  Medictal  College,  on  York,  near  Chai>el  St.  ;  the  School 
of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  the  Theological  Sehool  in  a  large  new  buililing, 
eoriu-r  of  Elm  and  College  Sts.,  with  the  neat  Manpiand  Chapel  attached. 
Jn  1871  there  were  044  men  in  the  academic  department,  with  G8  instruc- 
tors ;  and  liir»  in  the  professional  schools,  with  20-25  instructor.s.  The 
Annual  (Jommencement  (la.st  Thursday  in  July)  is  a  great  day  in  New 
Haven,  the  exercises  being  (onducted  iu  the  Centre  Church  and  tho 
Alumni  Hall. 

A  large  reading-room  is  in  S.  Middle  College.  George  Pcabody  left 
§150,000  to  Yale,  which  is  to  be  used  in  building  a  tine  Museum  on 
Chapel  St.,  and  a  Memorial  Chajicl  is  also  in  projection. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Art  Building  is  occupied  by  stud'-^s,  &c.,  and 
the  second  floor  contains  some  valuable  pictures.  The  works  of  art  in  the 
first  room,  to  a  large  extent,  belong  to  gentlemen  of  New  Haven,  and  are 
often  withdrawn  and  new  ones  are  added. 

Anions  tliose  on  exhibition  licre  iu  1872,  worn  Vi*w  in  tlic  Catskills,  Giffnrd; 
Portniit  iif  (ii'or^;t!  Pealxniy,  Iliintiifjton  ;  '  Iiiterinr  of  Wcstniinster  Abbey,  and 

*  Interior  (if  St.  Marlv's,  Vi'iiice,  Dor'ul  Krnl ;  lur^'c  copies  of  the  Madonnudi  Foligno, 
tlie  Transllyuratioii,  ami  tiio  Last  Coniiiiunion  of  Ht.  Jerome  ;  *  Autumnal  Scene, 
GiJi'oiil ;  AuHuoaoosuc  Valley,  ll'iir;  Takinj,' the  Veil,  Weir;  ami  a  large  number 
of  portraits,  sketches,  &c.  by  (.'ol.  TriDnhnll.  In  the  sccoiid  room  are  many  easts 
from  antique  sculptures  ;  130,  east  of  Jupiter,  afler  I'hld'uts;  l.'il,  Ilioneus,  after 
Praxitcki:  V,Vl,\\\\i\\,  Lnnihardi ;  \'.V,\,  Jephthali,  yli((/wr;  135,  Edwin  Booth  ;  136, 
Col.  Trumbull,  Ball  HunhcK;  137-8,  busts  by  Powers;  l.'U),  statuette  of  Apollo; 
1,  head  of  Apollo  ;  2,  i-Esculapius  ;  3,  *he  River-God  of  the  Cephi-Sdus  ;  4,  Theseus, 
after  P  kid  ins ;  ij,  Y'u'Aory,  after  Phidias;  (J,  Kanephora  ;  7  - -'H,  Pauathenaic  pro- 
cession, from  the  outer  frieze  of  the  oella  of  the  Parthenon  :  2'.) -33  Con»bat  of  the 
Greeks  and  Anjazous,  from  the  frieze  of  the  Mausoleum  at  Curia.  In  the  corridor 
are  works  of  the  same  ehuss  :  1,  east  from  Eleusis  ;  3,  4,  11,  Metopes  of  the 
Theseum  :  12,  13,  Combat  with  Centaurs.     In  tin:  third   room  is  the    famous 

*  Jarvid  collection  of  early  Italian  pictures  (line  catalotjue  and  "Manual  of  the 

4*  9 


X  I 


if 


82       Bouff  8. 


nOSTON  TO  NEW  YOIIK. 


study  of  early  CliriHliaii  Ail,"  for  walo  bv  (In- Juiiiloi),  TI.c  iiichin'M  from  I  to  l( 
an'  13yzai\tin<'  llaliaii,  ol  tlw  cloviMitli  ami  twclKli  ceiitinitH  :  I.  an  altar  jiiccc,  tlu 
rnii'itivion,   lU'iiosition.  and  IsiitomltiiiiMit  :  'J,  tlic  Nativity  ;  :t,  a  triptyrli,   Ma 

(liiiiiKi    •iiiilf*1ki1.l    41111I    V'liiiltj    •    ,1       IttuiiKilt    iiii>4iii-itu    1*1-.  till    <ilifk    Iiiu4>ii<«t    111'    I'liiMul       111     I 


0 
the 


•  ■ ' •   ■  •  1 ■ •■■" " ■    ■     ■ 1   .■   -  •   — 

donna  and  Vliild  and  .Saints  ;  4,  I'.'siiiall  |iirtnn>s  from  ilic  history  of  Clirist,  in  n 
Iriptycli  ;  '>,  "  a  lar^,('  alt^ir  |ii(<t('.  rhrist  and  the  Madonna,  wiMi  An^cln  ;  (I  HI. 
^icorgo  UiUiiiji  tin'  IMaj^on  ;  7.  an  alt,u'  pit'i'i-  in  .'1  scclitniH,  Christ  in  llaih-s,  iS:('  ; 
y-,  The  Annnnciation  :  ".',  Mirarnlons  Aitpcaran^'c  ol  S.S.  Mcrcnrius  and  Calhi'iino 
(KUhcontnry)  ;  10,  Madonna  and  Child  :  1 1,  Crncillxion, 'r'/an/d  i/o  I'i.in  ;  IJ,  allar 

.^j.y...    ...  >-      '.,.»: If  ...I ]..     I ...  .    10      M...I ..I    > 'I.M.I     /'.' I 

I 

(,'1 


^l<>lll«llllill,>  ;   ,    II',    iiltliii'iiii'i   iMi'i    \    iiii'i    ,    I  I,   \    iiii   iii.\ii'ii,   'rtiirfiif    iiM     I    r.Mr    ,     ij,  fiiiiii- 

Itii'i'o  in  7  S('iii<ms,  Mininn  itouc  iln  An:zo;  III,  Mailonna  and  Child.  Ci/ad/o/f  ,* 
14,  Cni('i(!\ion.  ind  Madoima  and  Child,  /"  rccoi  iln  Sirnn  ;  17.  '  I'lnti'inhini'iit, 
(Hollo;  IS,  Crinilixion,  iliotlo;  \\\,  Aimnmiation,  Coniliin  ;  20,  Vision  of  S.  Idnni- 
nii\  attvihii  cd  to  loihiro  i:>iihli ;  'Jl,  ^SS.  .lames,  .lulian,  .'iiid  the  Archangel 
Michael  ;  '22.  the  Madonna  and  Child,  &c.  ;  2'.\,  H.S,  Au^nstine  and  laieia,  O/fff/ixj  ; 
24,  .ss.  Uominicand  .Vk'"'"*.  "reo;/)!." ;  'J."»,  S.  .lohii  tlh  Haptisl,  (hnujun  ;  2(1,  "  H. 
Teter,  OrciT(;)iii  ,•  27.  Tlie  'rnnity  and   Adoring   Saints,  ('iipnnii ;  2S.   St.    KraneiH 

u......,;..:>..-4i.  .h^'i.:_.....4..        a .r./*     .31:.    iiiv     'IM...     i. „.....:..    ii..    ji.. ..  1 .    tti\     1   .1 


/iiMKi ;  2K.   St.    rraneiH 

ny  in  the  Oarden  ;  :tO,  Legend 

10 


reeeivinjj;  the  Stiumata,  Aijiiolo  (,'i,ilili ;  2'.i,  The  A;,iiii,v  m  nic  ^i.-uuvn  ,  .n>,  i,i-j;i  uu 
of  S.  tiiovanni  Cnalheno  Vnscnliuo  ;  'M,  M;idoniia;inii  Child,  vte.,  (liottiiio ;  :;j,  'fho 
\dor;ition  of  tlw  Shepherds,  (iiottiiio;  '.V.\,  Cincitixion,  Antiiio;  ;U,  Vision  of 
Con.^tnnti'ie,  and  Kail  of  Satan,  Ari'li)io:  'M'l,  The  Assnm]>tioii  ol'  tin-  Virgin  ;  lUl, 
!SS.  Co.'^mo  and  naniiaii,  Jiirci ;  'M,  the  l)"positioii  Irnni  the  Cioss,  IVjirc/iia.i  ,•  'AH, 
The  *  Tri  imph  of  l,ove{on  wood).  (U'litilr  tin  luthrinno  ;  :('.t,  iMadonna  anil  I'hiM, 
i}^nt;l^  .:.,   <.'.i.ii,-.'.i<...  •   III    Ms;    '/,.i...iii.>    l.'i-..i.,ii.,  ..I'    A....:..!      \.. 11. ......   ..r   i>,.,i.,..      l\... 


>  iiiiv    (I  in.ii  liiiii^     viii'iii,     iri'Mrc     .iti/r(,     11^.     w\itiiiii>"iia,      \^(iiiii    I'l     villlit,     I  'Uitt 

kino;  116,  *  Madonna  holding  the  Crown  of  Thorns,  itukiioifn  ;  IKi,  Spai 
S'oblo,  I'thiAiuez;  117,  Head  of  the  Dead  (."hrist.  Altnrl  Dilnr;  US,  I'ortrait  of 
2inyeior  Charles  V.,  Holbein;  119,  The  ri-ooession  to  Calvary,  Breiujhcl. 


nish 
the 


Environs  of  New  Haven. 


Besides  the  beaches  at  Braufonl  and  Guilford  (before  spoken  of),  there 
is  a  tine  drive  down  the  E.  side  of  the  liarbor,  by  tlie  old  Forts,  Hale  and 
Wooster.  The  Urove  (ateanier  from  Ne\v  Haven  4  limes  daily)  and  the 
Love  Houses  are  near  the  lighthouse,  5  M.  from  the  city,  the  latter 
($10 -$15.00  a  week)  being  on  a  long,  smooth,  curving  beach  of  white 


f 


Dili   1   to   10 

|ii»'('('.  tlu» 
ityili,   Ma 
lirist,  ill  n 

i'ls  ;  (i.    HI. 

laili'M,  \o  ; 
Ciilhi'iino 
;  IJ,  allar- 

,  Cimaliiir  ; 

iKinlnni'iit, 

>tS.  hoiiii- 
Anlmnnd 

I,  (»;("((/»l(I  ; 

a  ;  2(1.'    '  H. 

<t.    Fnnu'iH 

:10.  I.t'^cnd 

iiii;  :;j,  riic 
Vision   of 

Vii>,'iii  :  'M\, 

i^iiiHii  ;  .SS. 
iitnl  Chilli, 
'ail  nil,   hi  a 

iiiriilc ;  42, 
ill,  ]>aiiitt'(l 

till  .'i;i<l  tliu 

iptiition  uf 
lilt'  Virgin, 

Klnifiitincs 

!»  :   &a.  Ht. 

■>,  Nativity, 

fi  (/((  Siviiii ; 

III-:  (i;<.  Aii- 
w  Princess 
)f  a   liailv, 

llrllini ;  77, 
(fiiirjiinie ; 

ml  Actn'on, 

()  ili  Cnili ; 

ioinia  sup- 

lonna,    Ao 

<M.  Christ 

donna  and 

I'oitrait,  of 

,  ('olonna, 

ortrait   of 

Christ,   in 

',  Afioxtiiio 

incrva.  and 

a,   Domeni- 

«i,  Spanish 

trail  of  the 


HOHTON  TO  NKW  YOllK. 


rfn„fr  S.         83 


of),  there 

Hale  and 

)  and  tlie 

the  latter 

of  white 


f 


hand.  (Tlu"  Huhiiri*  «>f  FairJiavfir,  f»n  tlih  mIiIi',  U  fuirions  for  itMlarf^f  and 
jlelicioiis  oystcrH.)  Fort  Wooster,  l.Jj  M.  rmni  thf  city,  w.-is  l»uilt  in 
isl  J,  iind  is  now  in  niins  ,  a  noli|(<  view  is  ^'aincd  from  tin-  liill  on  which 
it  stands.  Ahotit  200  yanls  N.  of  this  F'ort  was  the  rcitKdcry  of  the 
Qninniptacr  Indians.  l.\-2  M.  frotn  this  ])oint  Is  Tort  flah-.  wliich  was 
(li*'any  strcni^llicncil  during,'  the  war  of  IHOI  -('».',  Imt  is  now  dismantled. 

The  Kast  and  West  Kocks  are  hold  and  'ofty  masses  of  trap-rock,  on 
the  plain  near  the  city,  which  ^'c olo^isls  tliink  wen.  driven  np  throni^di 
other  strata  hy  Home  great  throe  of  the  ceidra!  forces.  They  h)rni  the 
soiilhern  limit  of  the  grent  system  of  monntains  which  extends  from 
Hereford,  in  Canada,  forming  the  valley  of  tlie  (!onneetient  lliver,  which 
many  helieve  once  flowed  hctwiien  the.s(!  elilfs  to  th(!  Sound.  East  Rook 
(carriage  roMil  to  the  lop,  horse-cars  to  tln!  I»ase  from  the  (Jreen)  is 
l.J^-2  M.  from  the  c(!ntre  of  the  city,  hy  way  of  State  St.  A  small  stono 
hotel  is  on  its  summit.  An  extensive  *  vi(!W  is  alford'-d  Ikmhu-,  cmhracing 
the  hroad  valleys  and  hright  waters  of  Mill  and  Quimiipi'ic  RiverM,  iVc.  rural 
districts  of  North  Haven  and  llamden,  the  high  hills  toward  Mount  Car- 
nu'I,  lh(!  frowning  elilfs  of  West  llock,  the  '"ity  of  New  Haven,  its  har- 
bor, and  a  long  sw(!ep  of  Long  Island  Sound. 

•West  Rook  (hor.se-cars  from  Chupcd  St.)  is  2-2.\  M.  N.  W.  of  the 
(Jreen,  and  rises  sharply  from  the  jdain  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  400  ft. 
The  ftH'.'-ent  (ilillieult  for  ladies)  is  over  a  rugge(l  and  rocky  j)ath  beyond 
the  <ptarries.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  ncsarly  the  same  as  that  from 
the  Kast  llock,  exeept  that  a  gr(%'it  portion  of  the  Quimiipiai;  valley  h 
hidden,  the  northern  mountains  anMlilfiTently  gronixrd,  and  the  western 
towns  are  unfolded  to  the  vi(!W.  A  hard  walk  of  15-20  min.  to  the  N. 
over  the  rugg'd  plateau  hiads  to  the  Jin/f/r's  Cart\  a  small  eh^ft  in  a 
group  of  bouhh^rs,  where  the  regicides  Oolfe  an<l  Whalley  were  hidden 
for  some  time  in  1(5(51.  A  <iti/.(!n  who  lived  about  1  M.  off  brought  them 
food,  until  one  night  a  catamount  looked  in  on  them  .md  "  bla/ed  his  eyes 
in  Hueh  a  frightful  numner  as  greatly  to  terrify  tln-m,"  Winteryrcen 
Fall  is  near  the  upper  base  of  the  rock,  and  al)ov(!  it  is  a  dam  of  rook 
and  earth  I', 500  ft.  long,  whieh  forms  a  lake  of  7;'*  acres  for  the  water  sup- 
idy  of  the  city.  Near  West  Ro(;k  is  Malihij  Park,  covering  800  acres, 
with  3  M.  of  driveways,  and  the  (uty  water-^/orks.  At  the  foot  of  the 
rock  is  Westville,  near  which  is  "  I-^lgewood,"  tin;  rural  honn;  of  DonaM 
G.  Mitchell  (Ik  Marvel),  the  author  of  "  Dream  Life,"  "  Reveries  of  a 
Bachelor,"  and  otlier  charming  books. 

Savin  Rook,  4  M.  S.  W.  of  New  Haven  (horse-cars  from  the  Green 
half-hourly)  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  citizens.  The  road  passes 
through  West  Haven,  a  quiet  old  village,  Avith  a  tall  church  on  an  elm- 
shaded  green.  Savin  Rock  is  a  bluff  promontory  j)ushing  a  roc-ky  front 
against  the  waves,  and  stands  at  the  end  of  a  long,  sandy  beach  which  has 


:i: 


84       Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


a  very  light  surf.  A  pretty  view  of  the  Sound  is  gained  from  the  top  of 
the  hluff,  near  wliicli  once  stood  a  fine  liotel,  wliicli  was  recently  bunted 
down.     Tlic  Sea- View  House  can  now  acconunodate  Tf)- 100  guests. 

Several  busy  manufacturing  villages  are  in  the  vicinity  of  New  Haven. 
Newhallvillc,  where  the  Winchester  riHes  are  made  ;  Centreville,  the 
lioine  of  large  car,  carriage,  and  saw  factories  ;  Wliitneyville  ;  Westvillc, 
wliere  360,000  gross  of  match-splints  and  §50,000  worth  of  berry -baskets 
are  ma<'.e  yearly,  occ. 

On  leaving  the  dark  and  crowded,  but  centrally  located,  station  at  New 

Haven,  the  Shore  Line  train  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  New  York  and 

New  Haven  R.  R,,  on  which  the  cars  of  the  Si^ringfield  route  run,  and 

wliich  will  also  be  used  by  the  Air  Line  route.     The  first  station  is  West 

llacin,  i  M.  from  Savin  Rock,     Next  conies  Milford,  (Milford  Hotel, 

$2.00),  a  pretty  village,  with  wide  streets  lined  with  arching  elms,  t  A 

with  an  enclosed  green  J  M.  long. 

Tlie  aborigines  of  Wapowage  having  been  crowded  off,  this  district  was  settled 
and  named,  in  1C30,  by  a  oonipany  fn  ni  Milford,  in  England.  The  occupation 
Boeins  to  have  been  in  accordance  with  a  series  cf  resolutions  at  an  early  meeting 
of  the  Milford  church.  "Voted,  That  the  earth  is  the  Lord's,  and  the  fulness 
tlierecjf.  Voted,  That  the  earth  is  given  to  tlie  saints.  Voted,  That  we  are  the 
saints."  The  settlement  being  menaced  in* the  Indo-Duteh  War  of  16-18-6,  it 
was  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  palisade  1  M.  around  ;  and  the  dreaded  Moliawks 
having  been  repulsed  by  Connecticut  indians  near  Milford,  the  saints  ]>ossessed 
ilic  earth  in  peace.  O.i  New  Year's  Day,  1777,  20f>  American  soldiers,  ca])tivea 
from  the  prison-shii)s  at  New  York,  were  cast  aHho>"e  here  from  British  cartel- 
ships,  and  despite  the  truly  saintly  ministrations  of  the  Milfordites,  4(;  of  them 
died  in  one  n\onth.  They  were  buried  in  the  old  cenn^tcry  (near  the  stjitlon),  and 
a  monument  ;J0  It.  high  raised  over  them,  which  states  tlie  facts,  and  the  aames 
of  the  victims,  and  asks,  "Who  shallsay  that  Reimblics  are  ungrateful?" 

St.  Peter's  (Episcopal)  Church  is  a  venerable  and  ivy-clad  stone  edifice 
on  the  green  and  terraced  banks  of  the  tranquil  Posquag.  Two  large 
white  churches  (of  wood)  stand  on  the  hill  beyond.  A  large  amount  of 
straw-goods  is  made  in  the  village.  Charles  Island  (small  hotel)  is  in 
the  Sound  near  Milford,  and  is  much  visited  in  sur.imer. 

Soon  after  leaving  Milford,  the  line  crosses  the  broad  Housatonic  River, 
ar.d  stops  at  Stratford^  a  quiet  village  with  neither  hotel  nor  factory,  and 
ricli  in  two  or  three  elm-lined,  tranquil  streets,  where  one  can  stroll  on 
dreamy  autumn  afternoons  and  feel  as  if  in  a  second  era  of  the  Truce  of 
God.  Such  streets  are  found  iidy  in  these  old  towns  on  Long  Island 
Sound.  Stratford  was  settled  by  Massachusetts  men,  in  1639,  and  its 
pastor  was  Adam  Blackman,  whom  Cotton  Mather  (who  is  fond  of  play- 
ing upon  words)  calls  "aNazarite  purer  than  snow,  and  whiter  than 
milk."  The  society  which  he  organized  now  meets  in  a  new  Swiss  Gothic 
church  near  the  station.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  first  President  of  King's 
(Columbia)  College,  and  "  Father  of  Episcopalianisni  in  Connecticut,"  is 
buried  near  the  venerable  Clirist  Church  (founded  1723). 

The  ne.xt  station  is  Bridgeport.  ^ 


I   \ 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  S.       85 


he  top  of 

ly  bun)ed 

sts. 

w  Haven. 

ville,   the 

»Vestvillc, 

y-bii.skets 

m  at  New 
York  and 
run,  and 
n  is  West 
td  Hotel, 
;lms,  4  A 

,vas  settled 
occupation 
ly  meeting 
he  fulness 
ive  are  the 
1648-6,  it 
I  Mohawks 
l)o.ssesseil 
s,  ca])tiveH 
ish  caitel- 
(i  of  them 
itlnn),  and 
the  aanies 
1?" 

ne  edifice 
fwo  large 
monnt  of 
itel)  is  in 

nic  River, 
;tory,  and 
stroll  on 
Truce  of 
iig  Island 
3,  and  its 
1  of  play- 
liter  than 
ss  Gothic 
of  King's 
ticut,"  is 


('SterlinK  House.  Main  St.;  Atlantic  Hotisc,  opposite  station,  each  $.S.OO  a 
day;  City  Hotel,  &c.)  Oirriafifs,  50t;.  a  course  witliin  the  city  for  each  pci-son, 
or  ?1.00  for  ;{  jicrsons.  Po.s/  Office  on  State,  near  Main  St.  Opern  Umise  on  State, 
near  Main.  Library,  corner  A!ain  and  Beaver,  with  9,000  volumes;  magazines 
and  j>apcrs  in  tlie  reading-room. 

Tliis  district  was  owned  by  the  PauRUsset  Indians,  and  was  occupied  soon  after 
Mason's  victory  in  Ui^7,  when  lie  pursued  the  Pequots  in  this  direction.  The  in- 
nocent Pauf,'ussets  (with  tlieir  hundred,  wigwams)  were  .soon  crowded  on  to  a  res- 
ervation of  80  acres  at  Oohlen  Hill  (.so  named  f';nu  its  glittering  mica),  and  the 
l)oor  half-dozen  who  remained  in  176.5  sold  out  and  left.  From  the  ctmtiguous 
towns  of  Strafford  and  Fairliehl  a  new  i)arish  was  foi  ined,  called  Stnitfi'dd,  and  from 
this  Bridgcjiort  was  afterwards  organized.  Charles  Chauncey,  tlu;  famous  Puritan 
Father,  was  pastor  here  for  '20  years,  an<l  while  lie  lool^ed  after  the  a«iults  the 
church  "Voted  tliat  Nathaniel  Waekle  should  be  tlie  man  to  look  after  y«  boyes  a 
Sabbath  dayes  in  time  O;  exercise  tiiat  they  i>lay  not."  In  1715,  Pastor  Cooke  of 
New  Haven  acceiited  a  call  here  on  a  salary  of  "  200  ^  a  year,  or  i)roviaions  at  the 
following  ra'es,  viz  :  Indian  at  2.s-.,  ry  at  2,'!.  8^/.,  wheat  at  4.s.  per  bush.,  porck  at 
20.S.  peri'Wt.,and  firewood  for  tlit!  yous  of  the  family."  People  were  seated  in 
the  church  "by  dignity,  Adge,  and  a  .state.'"  In  1707,  an  Ki)iscoj)alian  mission- 
ary Wfus  sent  here  iroiu  Englaiid,  who,  by  174S,  had  organized  a  church  (the  i)re3- 
ent  St.  John's  Society).  In  1771,  during  Sunday  morning  service  at  the  Congre- 
gational Church,  a  storm  arose,  tlie  darkness  was  broken  by  a  broad  sheet  of 
lightning,  accompanied  by  a  terrilie  crash,  antl  wlieii  it  had  i)assed  the  two  chief 
men  were  fouiul  dead  in  tlieir  ]tews,  and  many  in  the  congre^^.itioii  were  stunned, 
bruised,  ami  wr)un(led.  In  I8;j(),  l{ridgei»ort  was  incorporated  tis  a  city,  and  since 
then  has  grown  hirger  and  richer  yearly. 

The  principal  manufactories  of  the  city  are  the  great  Sewing-Machine 
works  of  Wheeler  and  Wilson  (employing  800  hands),  and  of  Elias  Howe, 
Jr.  (the  latter  made  30,000  machines  in  18G9),  the  Pacific  and  the  New 
Haven  Arms  Co.,  the  Uiiion  Metallic  Cartridge  Co.,  the  American  and 
the  Simpson  Water-Proof  Co.,  the  Bridgeport  Brass  Co.,  &c.,  &c. 
Immense  quantities  of  steel-pointed  cannon-shot  were  made  here  in 
1801-5. 

Mountain  Grove  Cemetery  is  gained  by  Fairfield  Ave.  (horse-cars), 
and  is  in  a  picturesque  situation.  The  Harral  family  has  a  fme  Gothic 
monument  on  one  of  the  hills.  Iranistan,  Bamum's  large  mansion,  stood 
on  Faiifiehl  Ave.  St.  Augustine's  Church  (Catholic)  's  a  large  granite 
edifice  on  Golden  Hill,  opposite  which  is  the  Cluny-like  Wheeler  mansion 
in  its  exLer.sive  grounds.  Beyond  this  the  aristocratic  .streets  of  Golden 
Hill  extend.  North  Ave.  was  the  centre  of  the  ancien't  settlement,  of 
which  some  gray  houses  remain.  It  was  then  callcil  the  King's  Highway. 
Broad  St.,  parallel  to  Main,  has  a  line  of  neat  churches.  Wa.«'-iington 
Park  is  a  plain,  grassy  lawn  in  E.  Bridgeport,  on  which  is  the  pr -tty 
Church  of  St.  Paul,  and  beyond  it  is  Pembroke  Lake.  On  the  S.  of  tho 
city  (horse-cars  on  Main  St.)  is  *  Sea-Side  Park,  a  fine  resort  looking  out 
on  the  harbor  and  the  Sound.  The  beach  is  backed  by  a  long  sea-wall, 
beyonu  which  is  a  broad  esplanade,  with  carriage-road  and  foot-path,  in 
full  view  of  the  water,  and  of  Long  Island.  Beyond  the  Park  is  Black 
Rock  Village,  where  was  born  Capt.  Chauncey,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  a  dis- 
tinguished officer  of  the  War  of  1812.  During  much  of  the  Revolution- 
ary era,  the  4th  Conn,  encamped  at  the  Park.    The  stately  mansion 


r  r 


I" 

i 
i 


m  '^ 


88       Jloute  S. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


■which  overlooks  the  Park  was  built  by  P.  T.  Barnuni,  the  great  show- 
man. 

BaniUTti  was  bom  in  Conn..  1810,  anrl  began  his  great  career  as  showman  in 
1835  (with  Joice  Heth).  In  1840,  he  paid  Jenny  Lind  8150,000  for  singing  150 
nights  in  Anicricii.  In  1865,  liis  great  nuisemn  at  New  Yorl<  was  destroyed. 
Charles  H.  Straltop,  or  Gen.  Tom  Tiinnib,  was  born  at  Bridgeport  in  i.S32.  His 
size  and  growth  were  as  usual  until  his  seventh  month,  wtieu  he  ceased  to  grow. 
In  1844  Barnum  took  him  to  Kuroi)e  ;  and  since  that  time  his  travels  have  liecn 
incessant  and  his  revenues  la.ge.  In  186:^  he  married  Miss  Lavinia  Warren,  of 
Middhiboro',  Mass.,  a  young  lady  of  ubout  the  same  stature  as  himself, —  to  wit, 
28  inches. 

Steatnern  leave  Bridgr]tort  for  New  York  twice  dailv,  also  for  Port  Jefferson, 
L.  I.,  twice  daily  (fare  •>?  1.00).     St:iges  for  Black  Rock,  Kaston,  kc 

Railroads.  The  Naugatuck  II.  It.,  from  Bridgeport  to  Winsted  (62  M.),  runs 
N.  in  the  valleys  of  the  Housatonii' and  N.-aigatuck  Rivv-rs.  (Route  16.)  The  Hous- 
atonic  It.  It.  runs  from  Bridgeport  to  I'ittslield,  Mass.,  110  M.     (Ro'  te  17.) 

The  next  station  is  Fairfield  (Fairfield  House,  or  Marine  Pavilion, 
$10- $12.00  a  week;  open  in  summer  only).  Fairfield  is  an  ancient 
village,  with  a  beautiful  street  lined  with  villas  and  careful  landscape 
gardening.  On  the  Green  arc  the  Episcopal  and  Congregational  Churches, 
and  the  Court  House,  •'Built  A.  D.  1720,  destroyed  by  the  Britisli 
A.  D.  1779,  rebuilt  A.  D.  1794,  remodelled  1870." 

July  7,  1770,  Tryon  with  his  Hessian  Yagers,  returning  from  the  pillage  of  New 
Haven,  landed  here,  sacked  the  village,  and  burned  200  houses.  The  scene  in- 
spired Col.  Humphrey's  Elegy  begiiniing,  — 

"  Yc  smoking  riiing,  mnrks  of  hostile  ire, 

Ye  ashes  warm  wliieh  drink  the  tears  that  flow, 

Ye  desolated  plains,  my  voice  inspire, 
And  (rive  sott  music  to  my  song  of  woe. 

How  pleasant,  Fairfield,  on  th'  enrepturcd  sight, 
Itosc  thy  tail  spires,  and  upe'd  thy  social  halls." 

Another  poet  of  that  day  was  more  jwinted  in  his  remarks  :  — 

*'  Tryon  achieved  the  deeds  malign,  And  snuled  to  sec  destruction  spread  ; 

Trvon,  the  name  for  every  sin.  "While  Satan,  blushing  deep,  looked  on. 

Hell  s  blackest  fiends  the  ilanic  surveyed  And  Infamy  diisowned  her  son." 

10  mill,  walk  S.  of  the  Green  leads  to  the  beach,  the  best  on  the  Sound, 
protected  by  a  bar  from  S.  winds,  with  a  gradually-sloping,  sandy  shore, 
and  no  surf.  To  the  S.  is  the  lighthouse  on  Penfield  Reef,  and  Black 
Rock  light  is  to  the  E.,  in  which  direction  is  a  high,  grassy  bluft'  on  which 
it  is  conteni])lated  to  build  a  mammoth  hotel.  15  miii.  walk  N.  of  the 
Green  is  Round  Hill,  commanding  a  wide  view  of  Bridgeport  and  the 
Sound.  Some  miles  .'.  are  Samp  Morfar  Rock  (a  precipice  70  ft.  high, 
on  whose  top  is  a  deep  hole  where  the  Indians  pounded  corn),  and  Green- 
field Hill,  where  President  Dwight  was  once  settled,  and  where  he  wrote 
the  poem  (popular  70  ycar.s  ago)  of  "Greenfield  Hill."  From  this  point 
a  fine  view  is  gained,  embracing,  according  to  the  poet, 

"  Norwalk'g  white  asceniling  spires,  8k.v-eneircled  Easton's  churchei, 
Stratford's  turrets,  Fairfield  giving  lustre  to  the  day. 

Prince  of  the  waves,  and  ocean  s  favorite  child, 
There  Longa's  Sound  all  gloriously  expands. " 

Southiyort  station  and  village  is  2  M.  from  Fairfield.    N.  of  the  railroad 


■f: 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.       87 


real  show- 


thnwman  in 
singing  150 

dt'strovpfl. 

i.s;52.  His 
ied  to  grow. 
s  have  been 

Warre!!,  of 
f,  —  to  wit, 

rt  Jcffprr.on, 

^02  M.),  inns 
)  The  Hous- 
e  17.) 

Pavilion, 

an  ancient 

landscape 

Churclu's, 

he   Briti.sli 


lage  of  New 
le  scene  in- 


>n  spread  ; 
;p,  looked  on. 


lOD. 


the  Sound, 
andy  shore, 
,  and  Black 
ift'  on  which 
k  N.  of  the 
)rt  and  the 
70  ft.  high, 

and  Green- 
re  he  wrote 
n  this  point 

let, 


the  railroad 


'A 


1 


and  near  the  station  is  a  cultivated  field,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Sasco  Swamp,  where,  in  1G37,  the  Unquowa  (Fairfield)  Indians  anda  strong 
liand  of  Pequots  took  refuge.  Mason,  with  troops  of  Mass.  and  Conn, 
surrounded  the  swamp,  and  after  a  parley  the  Uiupiowas  were  allov/ed 
to  come  out  (being  blameless).  The  Peijuots  refused  all  terms,  and,  after 
an  obstinate  attack,  70  of  them  broke  the  English  line  and  escaped.  180 
were  made  prisoners  and  sold  to  the  West  Indies  as  slaves.  Soon  after 
these  "fair  fields  "were  occupied  by  a  company  from  Concord,  Mass. 
Tlie  next  station  is  Westport.  The  village  is  1^-2  M.  N.  of  the  rail- 
road, on  the  widenings  of  the  Saugatuck,  and  is  a  lively  little  place. 
The  Memorial  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  is  a  fine  Gothic  edifice  of 
sandstone,  alongside  of  which,  and  in  strong  contrast,  is  a  heavy  Egyptian 
tomb. 

Station,  S.  Norwalk  (Lacas  Hotel,  Allin  House),  near  which  is  the 
village  of  No^'walk  (horse-cars  to  station).  The  legend  says  that  this 
land,  in  the  purchase  (1640)  from  the  Indians,  was  to  extend  one  day's 
"north  walk  "  from  the  Sound,  In  1653,  the  town  was  incorporated, 
having  then  20  families.  July  11,  1779,  Tryon's  Hessians  plundered  and 
burnt  the  village,  meeting  with  such  resistance  from  50  Continental 
sokuers  and  the  militia  that  they  lost  148  men.  S.  Norwalk  is  now  an 
incorporated  city,  and  Norwalk  {Conn.  Hotel)  is  a  pretty  village  on  the 
heights.  Midway  between  them  is  the  i)alace  of  Le  Grand  Lockwood 
(costing  about  $  1,000,000).  The  fine  picture-gallery  was  moved  to  New 
York  soon  after  Mr.  Lockwood's  death,  in  1872.  The  Norwalk  Lock  Co. 
makes  900,000  locks  yearly,  in  300  forms;  the  Union  Knob  Works  turn 
out  1,500,000  knobs  (of  New  Jersey  clay)  yearly.  Hats  and  shoes  are 
largely  manufactured  here.  The  oyster  business  is  extensively  engaged 
in  by  Norwalk  men.  At  the  draw-l)ridge,  near  Norwalk  (on  the  E. ),  a 
frightful  accident  once  took  place,  wlien  an  express  train  dashed  into  the 
open  draw  and  was  precipitated  into  the  channel. 

Stations,  Darien  (village  h  M.  S.  of  the  station),  Noroton.  Noroton  is 
1-lJ  M.  from  Darien,  and  is  the  seat  of  Fitch's  Home  for  Soldiers,  a 
beneficent  institution  foimded  by  Benjamin  Fitch,  Esq.,  a  wealthy  gentle- 
man of  Darien.  Many  of  the  children  of  the  fallen  soldiers  are  educated 
and  cared  for  here,  and  i)repared  for  lives  of  industry  and  honor. 

A  fine  gallery  of  paintings  (mostly  modem  French)  is  attached  to  the  Home, 
and  i.s  open  to  visitors. 

I,  Portrait  of  Beiyamin  Fitcli ;  2,  The  Wandering  Jew,  Delia  Monica  ;  3,  The 
Cliaritable  Priest,  .JurUlo  (?) ;  4,  Aral)s,  Adolplie  Azc;  5,  Gaming,  Cnsmna;  0, 
Young  Cinist ;  10,  Fruit,  Matthkii, ;  11,  *  Greek  Girls  nivoking  Eros,  Mansfeld- 
Bccitmont ;  12,  The  Old  Lover,  Zamacois;  I'd,  iSfene  on  the  Canipagna,  Fay; 
20,  The  Coming  Storm,  Verheyden ;  22,  Europa  and  the  Bull,  Cortone ;  23,  Am- 
sterdam, lloflaucr;  24,  The  Judgniei't  of  Solomon,  Zurharan  ;  25,  Scene  at  a 
tii.os(\\\Q,  Adolphc  Azc  ;  27,  lloXy  VumWy,  School  of  Murillo  ;  28,  Lanipliglit  Study, 
Rosiarzc  ;  2'.>,  Arclies  near  Mareeilles,  Amk^wh  ;  32,  Adoration  f  the  Magi,  Fm/ir/- ; 
47,  " Algerian  Princess  at  the  \i-di\\.  Ad (ilphe  Azc;  3(5,  Marine,  Hojfbaver ;  38, 
Landscape,  Van  Huysum ;  40,  Genre,  /an  Ostade;  42,  *  Tambourine  Girl,  lio- 


88       liouie  S. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


'ij 


i'H 


'I 


(JHgvfz ;  44,  46,  Swiss  Scones,  Hnvzer ;  48,  Motlier  and  Child,  Coseman ;  50,  Tlio 
Foot-liridgo,  i.'i/?o?< ;  52,  Tlio  Madonna  adoring  tlic  Infant  Clirist,  GVtro/(t/o ;  W.\, 
As8umi»tion,  Prtulhon  ;  54,  The  Marriage,  (Ircuze  ;  55,  Roman  nower-Girl,  Ouriet ; 
50,  Portrait  by  Uiheira  (?) ;  57,  Tlie  Iletum  of  Cohimbus,  Dcveria ;  58,  Knil'tv 
Orinrler,  Teniers  (?) ;  59,  Holy  Family,  Rubens  (very  doubtfid) :  60,  Game-rie(  c. 
A.  Aze;  61,  Wonnded  on  the  Baltle-Field,  //.  Vernei;  62,  Jonah  and  the  Whale, 
Eckhout ;  65-9,  (lenre  pictures,  by  Schopin ;  66,  Aurora,  after  Guido ;  67,  Al- 
pine Landscape,  Hnfbnuer ;  71,  Roman  (Jirl,  Riedd ;  72,  The  Toilet,  Delechaur ; 
77,  Lady  pouring  Tea,  Senecourt ;  78,  Cavalier,  I'atroU ;  83,  Last  Supper,  Tinto- 
retto {'i);  84,  Milking,  lierrihem ;  86,  Fruit-Girl,  Toiirny;  88,  Alpine  Landsca]>e, 
Hnfhuuei  ;  8i>,  Lady  at  Window,  L'osti ;  !tl,  Fruit,  De  liccm ;  !»3,  100,  Dogs, 
Jila n chard  ;  04,  Hhcej),  Vcrhncckhovcii ;  !».'>,  Alclicniist,  I'ichut ;  1)7,  Soldier,  Caii- 
ture ;  98,  Female  Head,  Aita  ;  99,  Farm- Yard  Scene,  vl.  A:r ;  102,  Dead  Deer, 
Gerard;  10a,  liashful  Suitor,  Tabnou  ■he ;  106,  The  First  Snow;  109,  Eli^jah  fed 
by  the  Ravens,  Jknicher ;  111,  Holy  imily,  with  SS.  John  and  Catharine;  112, 
Cattle,  llofuinjier ;  113,  Rajdiael  and  I^a  Fornarina,  Jlarnn  ;  115,  Massacre  of  tie 
Inuoi'initH,  ( hi ido  Reni  ;  110,  Maiden  reading,  ^r'ro,s,so< ;  117,  The  Throne  of  France 
in  1793,  Cube;  121,  *Cin(;innatus  and  the  Roman  Senators,  Zink ;  123,  Shecj) 
and  Country  Lan<!,  Mcmird;  124,  128,  (rV/ne  pieces,  JSoiiraoin  ;  129,  Musicians, 
Srvre ;  132,  Sjmnish  Scene,  UodrUjvrz ;  133,  *Slict']),  JVr?/oi'rW(0)"e/i  (of  wonderful 
finish)  ;  135,  Portrait,  Panneyinno  ;  136,  *  Attack  on  Castle  (of  Cologne?),  Rolmer  ; 
lo8,  Blowing  Soap-Cubbies,  Chaplin ;  139,  Roman  Girls,  Horhvi ;  141,  Head,  U'a- 
(jrez ;  161,  Holy  Family  and  Saints,  Ikmifacio;  144,  Landscape,  Poelemburtj ; 
154,  Girl  and  Parrot;  155,  Tourists  in  the  Alps,  (liranlet ;  158,  Dog's  Head, 
Gcrome ;  153,  I3Hnd  Man  and  his  Dog,  Mnvligiwn  ;  151,  ^Eastern  Princess,  Ac- 
cnnite  ;  149,  *  Female  Head,  Pto^ ;  162,  Fruit  and  Game  ;  177,  Rattle  Scene  ;  174, 
The  Dead  Christ  (Pietii),  T/^m?i  (?)  ;  175,  Diana,  Raphael  Mcngx ;  171,  Portrait  of 
Rai)lviel  ;  173,  Lady's  Portrait,  Tvapie ;  169,  Marine  View,  Waldorp ;  167,  Tamo 
Bear  and  Villagers,  Rochu  ;  168,  St.  Mark's  and  the  Ducal  Palace  (Venice) ;  166*, 
IVu,  Soldiers,  Jrouvernian:;  ;  188,  Cattle,  Jirascassat ;  189,  190,  Scenes  from  Abra- 
ham's Life;  205,  Martha  Washington;  184.  Roman  Girl,  Nanteuil ;  182,  Re- 
ligious Scene,  Jlassano  (?)  ;  17,  Samson  and  Delilah  ;  lo3,  Judith  and  Holofemes  ; 
181,  Naval  Battle  by  Night,  Fovlcs ;  180,  Moses  and  the  Hebrew  Host  at  Sinai, 
Barharelli ;  179,  Diana  after  the  Ch.jse, /Jrci/r/ftcZ.  Lower  Room.  198-9,  Swiss 
Views;  197,  Rebecca  and  Eleazar,  CartafiUnno ;  221,  Bearing  off  the  Wounded, 
Le  Dieux ;  225,  *  Queen  Elizabeth,  F«7? /)j/A:;  201,  Achilles  spinning,  7)tcpen&ecA- ; 
203,  Naples;  204,  Peace  and  Plenty,  Gardner;  209,  Landscape,  Allegrain ;  210, 
Domestic  Scene,  Cano.  The  picture  numbered  150  (in  the  upjier  hall)  is  by  Bon- 
gnereau,  and  was  long  known  as  "the  gem  of  Paris."  Some  call  this  the  best 
]>icture  in  the  gallery,  while  others  ])refer  Verboeckh oven's  Sheep  (133),  a  small 
work,  yet  of  microscopic  finish.  The  works  of  Adolphc  Aze  are  said  to  be  "  ex- 
empt from  criticism,"  as  he  has  gained  everj' medal  and  honor  where  his  paintings 
have  appt;ared.  In  the  lower  room  is  a  choice  and  well-used  library,  including 
800  volunu's  of  Bohn's  works  presented  by  English  friends.  This  room  also  con- 
tains several  large  pictures.  In  the  room  on  the  r.  is  a  fine  piece  of  statuary 
emblematic  o  the  purpose  of  the  institution.  The  view  from  the  observatory 
above  the  building  is  very  i)retty. 


>i 


Ti 


3  M.  beyond  Noroton,  the  train  stops  at  Stamford,  (Stamford 
House,  Union  House),  whicli  was  founded  in  1641,  and  thereafter 
sometimes  harried  by  tlie  Dutch  from  New  York,  In  1838  it  was  a  dull 
liamlet  of  700  inliabitants  ;  but  soon  after  the  Empire  City  looked  with 
favor  upon  it,  and  during  the  last  25  years  its  hills  have  been  occupied  by 
the  villas  and  parks  of  New  York  gentlemen.  Hence  fine  churches  have 
been  liuilt,  broad  avenues  are  laid  out,  and  a  cluster  of  admirable  schools 
has  arisen.  8t.  Andrew's  (Epis.)  Church  is  a  little  gem  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, guarding  a  wide  sweep  of  graves.  The  Univ.  Church,  near  by,  is 
a  handsome  stone  building,  while  the  Catholics  are  raising  a  large  church, 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


lioute  S.       89 


;  50,  Tlio 
'ofiiln ;  t>:\, 
irl,  Oufiet ; 
58,  Knif*!- 
ime-Pieco, 
;he  Whalo, 
9;  67,  Al- 
DelecJiavr ; 
per,  Ti7Uu- 
jnndscai)0, 
100,  Dogs, 
Idior,  Con- 
tend Deer, 
Elijah  tV'<l 
irine  ;  112, 
icre  of  tic 
;  of  France 
123,  Sheep 
Musieiaiis, 
wonflerlul 
?),  Rolmr.i- ; 
Head,  Wn- 
oelemhurtj ; 
)j,''s   Head, 
rincess,  Ix- 
leene  ;  174, 
Portrait  of 
167,  Tame 
ice);  16G*, 
from  Abra- 
;   182,   Rc- 
lolofemes ; 
Lt  at  Sinai, 
^-9,  Swiss 
Wounded, 
Jiepenheck  ; 
train;  210, 
is  by  Bon  ■ 
is  the  best 
53),  a  small 
to  be  "  ex- 
s  paintings 
,  ineluding 
11  also  con- 
)f  statuary 
bservatory 


Stamford 
thereafter 
as  a  dull 
)ked  with 
cupied  by 
ches  have 
le  schools 
hie  arehi- 
ear  by,  is 
;e  church, 


1 


on  the  road  from  the  station.  A  fine  new  Town  Ilall,  of  brick  and  Ohio 
stone,  150  ft.  front  and  with  a  tower  100  ft.  high,  rises  in  the  centre  of 
the  village  (.^  M.  from  the  station).  Near  it  is  a  small,  triangular  park 
with  a  fountain.  A  pleasant  drive  is  that  on  the  New  Haven  road,  i)assing 
many  fine  villas,  among  whicli  is  Quintard's  stone  chateau.  1000-1500 
New-Yorkers  come  here  during  the  summer,  many  of  whom  stop  at  Sliip- 
pan  Point  (lJ-2  M.  from  the  station),  where  is  the  large  Ocean  House, 
from  whose  beach  a  pretty  still-water  view  is  alforded.  Pound  Rock  is  a 
ledge  numing  into  the  Sound  not  far  from  the  Point. 

Col.  Abraham  Davenport,  "a  man  of  sU'rn  intej^jrity  and  penerons  benevo- 
lence," was  born  at  Stamford  in  1715,  and  was  for  25  years  in  the  State  lej^^isla- 
ture.  On  the  memorable  l)arl<  Day,  May  I'.ttli,  1780.  great  fear  fell  on  tlie  legisla- 
tnrc,  then  in  session  ;  and  in  anticipation  of  the  ajiproacdi  of  tin;  Dav  of  universal 
Jiid>;ment,  an  a<Uournmeiit  wa,s  moved.  Tiie  brave  old  man  arose,  and  tiius  spoke, 
calming  tlie  fears  of  tlie  legislators,  and  continuing  tlie  session:  "lam  iigainst 
an  ailjournnie.it  The  Day  of  Judgment  is  either  approaching,  or  it  is  not.  If  it 
is  not,  there  is  no  cause  for  an  adjournment.  If  it  is,  I  chou.se  to  Im;  found  doinj^ 
my  duty.  I  wisli,  therefore,  that  I'aniUes  may  be  brouglit."  This  scene  has  been 
made  the  theme  of  a  line  poem  iiy  Wliittier.  Col.  Davenport's  sons,  .James  and 
John,  were  olllciiis  in  the  llevt)lution,  and  afterwards  members  of  Congress 
(17!H5-9  ;  1799-1817). 

Steamers  leave  Stamford  for  New  York  daily.  A  Ruilrodd  runs  from  this  point 
to  New  Canaan,  a  (juiet  country  town  8  M.  to  the  N. 

Stations,  Cos  Cob  (village  N.  of  the  railroad,  on  the  Miantus  River), 
and  GrcemHch  (City  Hotel,  open  in  summer).  Greenwich  was  settled  in 
1640,  and  in  1650  was  appointed  by  the  Anglo-Dutch  frontier  commission 
in  session  at  Hartford  as  the  W.  limit  of  Conn.  Somewhere  in  this  early 
'  je,  a  desperate  battle  lasting  all  day  was  fought  on  Strickland's  Plain, 
between  the  Dutch  and  Indians.  The  village  stands  on  rolling  hills, 
h  M.  N.  of  the  station.  15  min.  walk  to  the  E.  is  a  stately  Cong. 
Cluirch,  built  of  gray  rubble,  with  deep  transepts,  a  wide  and  i)ietures(pie- 
ly  irregular  front,  a  high  pointetl  roof,  and  a  fine  stone  spire  in  open- 
work. This  fine  edifice  is  on  a  high  hill,  and  may  be  seen  for  leagues 
along  the  Sound,  resembling  some  pilgrimage  church  on  the  Seine 
or  Danube.  Near  this  is  the  e.xipiisite  Christ  Church  (Epis.  )in  a  shel- 
tered grove  on  the  ridge,  built  of  gray  stone  trimmed  with  Caen  stone. 
It  has  a  handsome  stone  spire,  and  its  interior  is  said  to  be  very  ele- 
gant. 

A  few  rods  beyond  (to  the  E.),  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  is  an  old  cemetery,  whero 
stood  the  church  in  177!>,  near  which  Gen.  Putnam,  with  GO  militia-men,  fouglib 
an  advancing  force  of  dragoons  until  the  last  iu;jmeut  possible.  Tiien,  since  to 
go  down  by  tlie  curving  road  (the  present  road  is  modern  and  more  direct)  woul  I 
exi)()se  him  to  a  close  hre  from  many  of  the  enemy,  he  galloped  ids  hoi-se  ih)\va 
the  steps  built  in  tlio  steep  hillside  for  the  churcli-gocrs.  Tlie  British  cavalry 
.sunt  a  volley  after  him  (one  shot  iiiercing  his  iiat),  but  dared  not  follow,  althoug  i 
two  or  three  dragoons  of  Lafayette's  escort  to  the  place  (in  1S24)  i)erfonncd  tlio 
feat  safely.  Putnam  lost  2  cannon  here,  but  his  men  mostly  escaped  to  tiie  aiOa- 
cent  swamps,  and  the  next  day  Old  Put  attaclicd  Tryon's  rear-guard  with  a  fon  o 
from  Stamford,  and  captured  88  men. 

S.  E.  of  the  Greenwich  station  is  Indiar  Harbor,  on  a  point  near  whicli 


90       Route  D. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFOUO. 


■i\ 


are  Uio  j^reat  buildings  and  parks  prepared  hy  the  wcaltiiy  AmericusClub, 
of  New  York. 

Soon  after  leaving  Greenwich,  the  train  crosses  the  Byram  River,  and 
leaves  Yankee-land,  wliic^h  is  said  to  stretch  "from  Qnoddy  Head"  (in 
Maine)  "to  Byram  lliver."  Stations,  Port  Chester,  in  Westchester 
County,  New  York  (Do  Soto  House),  a  busy  village  with  5  churches,  Jtyc 
(with  a  fine  beach  2  M.  S.  Pi.  of  the  station),  Mavmroneck,  "the  place 
of  rolling  stones,"  where  Smallwood's  Maryland  battalion  defeated 
Rogers's  Tory  Rangers  in  1776,  and  New  Sochelle.  This  village  was  set 
tied  by  Huguenot  refugees  in  1G91,  after  the  full  of  La  Rochelle,  and  the 
French  language  was  long  used  here.  Tlie  State  of  New  York  granted  a 
tract  of  land  here  to  Thomas  Paine. 

Tlionias  Paino,  was  horn  in  England,  17.37,  and  came  to  America  in  1774.  Early  in 
1770  li(i  pul>lished  a  tract,  "Comnion-Hense,"  advocating  republican  indepen- 
dence, and  in  Dec.  "  Tlie  Crisis  "was  published,  beginning  with  the  words,  "These 
are  the  times  that  try  men's  souls."  This  was  read  at  the  head  oi  every  Conti- 
nental regiment,  and  aroused  the  drooj)iiig  spirits  of  the  army  and  people.  Af- 
ter filling  several  offices  in  the  U.  .S.,  he  went  to  France  in  1701,  and  was  elected 
to  the  National  Convention.  After  a  stormy  life  in  Europe,  during  which  he 
attacked  IJnrkc  in  the  "  Rights  f)f'  .Man,"  and  advocated  atheism  in  the  "Age  of 
Reason  "  (17i'o),  he  came  to  New  Rochelle  in  1802,  and  settled  on  an  estate  given 
him  by  New  York,  where  he  died  in  1809.  In  1811)  Wm.  Cobbett  removed  his  re- 
mains to  England,  and  in  18;]9  the  State  erected  a  monument  to  Paine  on  his  old 
farm. 

After  Neio  Rochelle,  the  train  passes  Pelhamville,  and  at  Mount  Ver- 
non turns  to  the  S.  W.,  and  runs  on  the  rails  of  the  Harlem  R.  R., 
through  several  suburban  villages  without  stopping,  then  crosses  the 
Harlem  River,  and  stops  at  the  station,  42d  Street,  corner  of  4th 
Avenue. 

New  York,  see  Route  51.    , 


9.   Boston  to  New  Bedford. 

Via  Boston  and  Providence  R.  R.,  &c.,  in  2  hours. 

Boston  to  Mansfield,  see  Route  8.  Stations,  Norton  (Mansion  House), 
Crane's,  Attleborough  Junction  (wher''  a  branch  line  diverges  to  Attle- 
borough),  Whittenton,  Tannton  (see  Ro^  te  3.)  At  Weir  Junction,  the 
line  connects  with  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (western  division),  at  Middle- 
horo'  Junction  with  the  Middleboro'  and  Taunton  R.  R.,  and  at  Myrick's 
with  the  Old  Colony  R.  R,  (eastern  division).  The  track  now  crosses  the 
toAvns  of  Freetown  and  New  Bedford,  and  stops  at  the  latter  city. 

New  Bedford  (Parker  House,  Mansion  House),  the  Acushnet  of  the 
Indians,  was  settled  in  1704,  by  Quakers,  on  lands  owned  by  one  Russell. 
This  being  the  family  name  of  the  Dukes  of  Bedford,  the  settlement  was 
named  hi  compliment  to  them.  In  the  Revolution  the  place  became  a 
perfect  ne.st  of  privateers,  until  a  British  force  under  Earl  Grey  attacked 
it  (in  the  autumn  of  1778),  and  destroyed  its  shipping,  wharves,  and 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFORD. 


ItouteO.       91 


•ric.usClub, 

River,  and 
Head"  (in 
iVestchester 
iirches,  li'/c 
"the  plaro 
n  defeated 
ige  was  set. 
lie,  and  the 
k  granted  a 


74.    Early  in 

■an   indepfn- 

ords,  "Tlicse 

every  Conti- 

I)eople.     Af- 

was  elected 

ng  which  he 

the  "Age  of 

estate  ^iven 

moved  his  re- 

ne  on  his  old 

Mount  Ver- 
lem  R.  R., 
crosses  the 
ner   of  4th 


ion  House), 
is  to  Attle- 
mction,  the 
at  Middle- 
at  Myrick's 
crosses  the 

ity. 

met  of  the 
>ne  Russell, 
lement  was 
became  a 
ey  attacked 
larves,  and 


I 


stores.  About  the  time  of  the  settlement  (1764),  a  few  vessels  were  sent 
out  in  the  pursuit  of  wliales  ;  and  this  business  soon  became  so  great  as  t«» 
give  New  Bedford  the  name  of  the  Whaling  City.  The  Revolutionary 
War  briefly  interrupted  this  career  of  prosperity,  but  between  171K)  and 
1850  the  whalers  from  this  port  penetrated  every  8ea.  The  business 
began  to  decline  after  the  C'alifoniian  gold-fever ;  scores  of  the  old  ships 
were  filled  with  stone,  carried  to  the  Soiith,  and  sunk  in  the  channels  be- 
fore the  rebellious  cities  on  the  coast  ;  and  in  the  last  hours  of  the  Secession 
War  the  Confederate  cniiser  "  Shenandoah  "  destroyed  a  large  part  of 
the  Pacific  whaling  fleet.  Although  this  business  has  greatly  waned,  the 
attention  of  the  people  has  so  been  turned  to  manufacturing  industry  that 
the  city  still  maintains  its  prosperity.  The  Wanisutta  Mills  have  four 
large  buildings  of  stone,  containing  90,000  spindles,  operated  by  1,600 
workmen,  and  consuming  10,000  bales  of  cotton  yearly.  300  men  arc 
engaged  in  carriage  manufactories  ;  200  in  glass-works  ;  100  in  theGosnold 
Iron  Works,  $  2,500,000  worth  of  oil  a  year  is  turned  out  by  large  oil- 
works  ;  2,000,000  lbs.  of  copper  sheathing  are  made  yearly  ;  and  other 
industries  are  in  full  tide  of  progress.  The  city  has  lately  laid  out 
$  700,000  for  an  extensive  system  of  water-works.  Tlie  population  in 
1870  was  21,375. 

New  Bedford  fronts  on  the  widenings  of  the  Acushnet  River,  near  its 
mouth,  and  is  built  on  the  side  of  a  ri<lge  sloping  to  the  water's  edge.  It 
"  lias  a  cosmopolitan  air  always  blowing  over  its  strata,"  from  the  number 
of  foreign  mariners  who  are  found  here,  and  one  of  its  quarters  is  called 
Fayal,  from  the  large  population  of  Portuguese  there  residing.  The  upper 
part  of  ^he  city  is  pleasant,  and  County  St.  is  lined  with  stately  old 
residences  of  the  marine  aristocracy,  whence  Lady  Emma  Stuart  Wortley 
called  this  "a  city  of  palaces."  Tliese  "  palaces  "  are  all  on  the  model  of 
the  "architectural  boulders"  so  common  in  the  decadent  fishing-ports 
along  the  coast.  The  City  Hall  is  a  fine  granite  building,  and  the 
Custom  House  is  built  of  the  same  material.  Several  of  the  churches  an; 
notable  for  their  neatness  and  grace,  especially  the  spacious  UnitariaTi 
Church.  The  City  Library  is  a  large  and  rapidly  increasing  collection  of 
books,  kept  in  finely  arranged  rooms,  and  free  to  the  public.  The  wealthy 
old  families  of  the  aristocracy  of  New  Bedford  are  famous  for  their  hospi- 
tality and  culture,  and  but  few  of  the  citizens  go  abroad  to  seek  summer 
recreation.  The  favorite  drive  is  around  Clark's  Point,  which  extends  into 
Buzzard's  Bay,  and  is  bordered  by  a  broad,  smooth  road,  constructed  at 
great  expense  by  the  city  to  give  its  people  the  benefits  of  the  sea-breezes 
in  summer.  This  avenue  (5  M.  around)  aflbrds  a  brilliant  scene  in  sultry 
summer  afternoons. 

Opposite  the  city,  and  joined  to  it  by  a  bridge  and  steam-ferry,  is  Fairliuven  (so 
named  from  its  pretty  location),  a  village  formerly  devoted  to  the  wlnle  trade. 
In  1778,  while  New  Bedford  was  burning,  a  large  British  force  crossed  to  Fair- 


I* 


92       Route  0.  BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFORD. 


u 


I 


I 


havftn,  ipfpnt  on  its  iloHtnirtion.  Hilt  Miijor  Fmring  of  the  militia,  fearing  iint, 
nttacked  an<l  repulsed  them  aii<l  saved  the  village. 

W.  of  New  HeiU'nrd  are  tlie  large  but  thinly  settled  towns  of  Dartnioutli  and 
VVestpoii,  on  long  inlets  from  the  sea,  and  remote  from  railmads.  These  towns 
(the  A)r(inig!iMset  and  Acoal^set  of  the  Indians)  are  nurseries  <it  sailors,  and  ha»ti 
hut  an  inferior  soil,  which  produces  fair  crops  when  manured  hy  nu-niuulen  lish. 
In  nnv  year  (1H|;})  six  seines  otf  Dartmouth  show  and  helow  I'adun-Arnni,  caught 
18,1011  barrels  of  these  fish,  whiidi  sold  for  .'!()c.  n  barrel. 

Railroad  from  Fairhaven  to  Tremont,  on  tln^  Cape  ('oil  II.  H.,  see  Route  6. 

Steamers  leave  daily  during  llu;  summer,  for  Martha's  Vineyard.  Upon  leaving 
the  wlinrf,  a  line  view  is  oidained  of  F.iiiliaven  on  tlie  Iv,  and  of  the  long  wharves 
and  ]topulous  slopes  of  New  Hcdford  on  tlu^  \V.  Palmer's  Island  with  its  light- 
hous(!  and  Fort  I'lionix,  is  soon  jtassed,  and  then  the  Ion;:,  projecting  Clark's 
I'oint,  with  a  strong  Hirtress  now  in  ]»roeess  of  construction.  Tlie  steamer 
now  jiasses  straight  to  tlu'  H.  K.  across  Rnz/jirds  Ray,  a  n(d)h(  j'stuary  ;{()  M.  long 
by  10  M.  wide,  with  thinly  pojiulated  shores.  The  Norsemen  (lith  century) 
eallccl  this  Ray,  Stranm  Fiord  ;  tlie  origin  <>''  its  jircsent  name  is  not  apparent. 
Far  to  the  !S.  are  seen  the  Rouml  Hills,  on  tlie  Dartmouth  coast,  and  Cuttyhunk, 
the  outermost  of  the  F,lizalK\th  Islands.  Cuttyhunk  was  colonizerl  by  Capt. 
(lo.snold,  in  May,  l(;i»2,  with  a  company  sent  out  by  the  Karl  of  Southamjiton. 
He  named  tlu^  Island  "  Fllizabcth,"  in  honor,  probably,  cd' the  maidcji  (^ueeii.  The 
island  is  'If^  M.  long,  and  at  that  time  abounded  in  game,  (iosncdd  and  his 
people  erected  a  fort  and  cabins  on  an  islet  in  a  po.id  near  the  centre  of  (Jutty- 
Iiunk,  and  here  inaugurated  the  lirst  settlement  of  New  F.nghmd.  Rut  the 
Indians  were  hostile  and  numerous,  and  tlu;  colonist.s'  sujiplies  soon  gave  out ;  so 
within  a  few  weeks  the  plan  was  aban<loned,  and  the  people  returned  to  England. 
The  island  is  now  occupied  by  a  nu-rry  elul)  of  New-Vorkers,  who  spend  their 
summers  in  boating  and  fishing.  On  Penequcese  Island  (covering  about  100  acres) 
is  the  villa  long  occupied  t)y  ,John  Anderson,  of  New  York,  who  (in  Ajiril,  1873) 
gave  the  island  and  !j.'iO,000  in  cash  to  Prof.  Agassiz  for  thci  location  of  a  summer 
school  of  zoology  and  sewnce  connected  with  Harvard  Univei-sity.  Nashawena 
(.'}  M.  long)  is  E.  of  Cuttyhunk,  and  beyond  that  is  Pa.sciue  Island.  This  is  owned 
by  a  New  York  club,  who  have  built  a  club-hou.se,  farms,  and  stibles,  and  i)repare(l 
fruit  and  flower  gardens,  and  jire.serves  of  small  fish  (or  bait.  The  surrounding 
waters  abound  in  bass,  blue-fish,  squeteague,  sword-flsh,  &e.  Next  tn  Pasque  is 
Naushon,  8  M.  long,  which  was  for  many  years  the  favtnite  residence  of  James 
Rowdoin,  an  early  American  diplomatist,  whose  mansifm  was  adonied  by  a  large 
library,  jthilosophieal  apparatus,  and  a  fine  picture-gallery,  which  he  harl  collected 
in  Eur()j)e.  At  his  death  he  left  all  these  things,  together  with  the  reversion  of 
Naushon,  to  Rowdoin  College.  Lady  Wortley,  who  visited  the  island  early  in 
this  century,  says,  "  Naushon  is  a  little  pocket  America,  a  Lilliputian  Western 
world,  a  compressed  Columbia." 

Naushon  was  long  inhabited  by  a  Roston  gentleman,  and  is  said  to  be  "  stocked 
with  all  the  varieties  of  English  and  Scotch  game-birds,  and  most  of  their  game 
inumals,  including  also  several  hundred  American  deer,  prairie  fowl,"  &c.  Kettlo 
and  Tari)aulin  Coves  are  well-known  harbors,  respectively  on  the  N.  and  S.  shores 
of  Naushon.  Near  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  island  are  the  islets  of  Wepecket,  Onka- 
tomka,  Nannamesset,  and  the  Rjim  Islands.  Retween  Naushon  and  the  Falmouth 
shore  is  the  strait  called  Wood's  Hole,  a  difficult  and  intricate  passage  between 
Ruzzard's  Ray  and  the  Vineyard  Sound.  "  The  steamer  stops  at  the  village  of 
Wood's  Hole,  where  there  are  several  summer  ]>oarding-houses.  (See  Route  7.) 
After  leaving  this  ]>oint,  and  passing  N<d)sque  Light  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  crosses 
Vineyard  Sound,  and  stops  at  the  wharf  at  Martha's  Vineyard  (Route  7).  Says 
an  Engli.sh  touri.st:  "  What  scenes  can  l)e  more  refreshing  and  exalting  than  an 
exi)ansive  view  of  the  miglity  waves,  dotted  here  an<l  there  with  such  beautiful 
islands  as  those  in  the  Vineyard  Sound"?  While  aquatic  birds  skim  the  waves, 
and  the  gulls  are  screaming,  dipping,  and  darting  over  a  shoal  of  blue-fish,  or 
menhaden,  vessels  outward  and  homeward  bound  are  always  passing,  for  it  in- 
cludes in  its  range  of  view  the  packets  and  sailing-craft  between  New  York  and 
Roston.  We  have  here  the  foreground  and  perspective  worthy  of  the  pencil 
of  Claude  Lorraine,  while  the  background  is  formed  of  the  granite  shores  of 
Massachusetts." 


.tl 


PUOVIDEXCK  TO  WOUCRSTER.      Route  10.       93 


,  fearing  not, 

rtiiiniitli  and 
Tlu'so  towns 

us,    llinl    IlilKl 

•nJiailcii  lisli. 
\iani,  cnuglit 

Itoutft  6. 
Upon  loavinK 
loiij;  \vliaiv»\s 
itli  its  linht- 
I'tinj,'  Clark's 
Till!  stranicr 
ly  :!()  M.  Ion;,' 
itli  ccnturv) 
ot  'ipjiarcnt. 
I  Cnttyliunk, 
vi\  Ity  Cajit. 
oiithani|>ton. 
(iucrn.  Th« 
iiiold  and  liis 
tn-  of  (Jiiity- 
iid.  lint  till) 
Kavc  out ; so 
I  to  England. 
I  spend  their 
Hit  100  acres) 
1  April,  1H7:0 
of  a  Huninier 
Nasliawen.i 
riiis  is  owned 
and  prepared 
surround  in;:; 
tf)  Pasque  is 
ice  of  James 
d  by  a  large 
Imfl  collected 
reversion  of 
and  early  in 
tian  Western 

be  "  stocked 
f  their  game 
■  &c.  Kettlo 
ind  S.  shores 
ecket,  Onka- 
he  Falmouth 
age  between 
e  village  of 
Jee  Route  7.) 
anier  crosses 
itt(  7).  Says 
ing  than  an 
•h  beautiful 
n  the  waves, 
blue-lish,  or 
ig,  for  it  in- 
w  York  and 
I  the  pencil 
te  shores  of 


10.  Providence  to  Worcester. 

Via  Prov.  and  Worcester  U.  U.,  4:{  M.,  Fare  $1.10. 

The  railroad  follows  the  line  of  the  Boston  and  Providence  R.  R.  as  far 
us  rawtuckct,  and  then  turns  up  the  valley  of  the  lilackstone  River.  Sta- 
tions, Pawtucket,  Valley  Falls,  and  Lon.sdale.  At  the  latter  i)lace  the  track 
li:is.ses  through  a  deep  cut  in  Study  Hill,  to  which  William  iJlack.stone, 
tilt)  tirst  settler  of  Boston,  retired  after  the  Puritan  immigration.  \\.*i 
lived  here  in  the  wihlerness  from  MV-W  until  his  death,  in  1<)75,  surrounded 
by  his  l)ooks,  and  deeply  respected  by  the  Indians.  Tin;  Inisy  little  river 
i/iiich  Hows  by  the  hill  was  nanuid  in  his  honor.  After  i)assing  the 
stations  of  Ashton,  Albion,  Manvillo,  and  Ilandet,  the  train  stops  at 
Woonsooket  {Central  JiDU.se,  Wnuntidcket  Hotel),  a.  tliriving  manufactur- 
iii;,'  town.  Within  a  radius  of  3  M.  from  tlie  centre  of  the  town  are 
2.'>,()U()  iidiabitants.  In  tlie  town  itself,  4,*2()()  ])ersons  are  engaged  in 
cotton-factories  2,400  in  woollen-factories,  and  700  in  other  manufactories, 
in  lJ>(Jy,  the  production  of  tiieso  busy  hands  was  reported  as  43,000,000 
yards  of  cotton  cloth,  ,'},3()(),000  yards  of  woollens  and  cassimeres,  100,000 
grain-bags,  30  tons  cotton-war}),  1,000  tons  of  soap.  The  celebrated 
Harris  cloths  are  made  here.  Jhe  Social  Mills  have  43,000  sjiindlcs  and 
500  hands.  The  town  has  erected  a  neat  monument  '*  in  memory  of  her 
brave  .sons  wlio,  during  the  great  llebellion,  gave  their  lives  that  the 
llepublic  might  live."  Tiie  Harris  Institute  is  a  i)0pular  institution  given 
by  Mr.  Harris  to  the  people,  containing  a  large  hall,  and  a  library  of 
G,000  volumes.  Woonsocket  Hill,  the  highest  land  in  the  State,  com- 
mands a  line  view  of  the  populous  and  busy  valley. 

Railroaflfl.  —  A  branch  road  runs  from  Woonsocket  to  Milford,  Mass.  The 
Wuoiisockci  Division  of  tliv.  New  York  and  New  England  11.  It.  terminates  here, 
wliile  the  main  line  of  that  road  crosses  the  Worcester  route  at  Waterford,  or 
Mill  III ver  Junction. 

After  passing  Woonsocket,  the  train  enters  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 
Stations,  Waterford,  and  Blackstone  {Lincoln  House),  a  busy  manufac- 
turing village  of  about  5,000  inhalntants.  Millville  is  in  the  town  of 
Blackstone.  Station,  Uxbridge  ( Wacantuck  House),  near  which  Major 
Talcott,  with  his  famous  Hying  army,  attacked  the  Queen  of  Narragansett, 
who  had  made  a  stand  liere  in  a  fortified  position.  After  a  battle  of  three 
hours,  the  Queen  and  34  of  her  warriors  were  killed,  and  90  warriors 
surrendered,  only  to  be  butchered  in  cold  blood.  Considerable  manufac- 
turing is  done  in  the  valley  of  the  Blackstone,  but  the  hills  are  occupied 
by  a  population  of  wealthy  farmers.  Stations  Whitins,  Northbridge, 
Farnum's,  Saxmdersville,  Sutton  (with  several  ponds),  and  Millbury 
{Millhury  Hotel),  a  prosperous  manufacturing  town.  A  branch  road  from 
this  point  runs  N.  to  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  R.     Shortly  after  leaving 


04       Route  It.        PllOVIDENCK  TO  IIAHTFOHD 


N 


r 


I  ii 


;  t 


Millbury,  the  truin  i)asHUH,  by  the  Grand  Juuctioii,  into  the   fitatiuu  at 
Worcester  (see  Koutc  21). 

IL  Providence  to  Hartford  and  Waterbory. 

Viii  TTartfor.l.  ridvid.-iico.  and  Fishkill  U.  K.  To  Hurtfotd,  UO  M.,  furo  !?  3.30. 
To  Watfibiiry,  VIl^  M.,  lair,  ^  \.\b. 

After  leiiving  Providence  the  train  passes  the  stations,  Cranston,  Oak 
Lawn,  Natick,  lliverpoint,  Quidnick,  Anthony,  VVashint,'t()n,  Nipinuck, 
Summit,  and  Greene.  These  are  mostly  manul'ueturinj^'  villages  in  the 
extensive  town  of  Greene,  and  several  of  them  are  oeeu])ied  by  the  large 
factories  of  A.  &  W.  Spragne.  Shortly  after  leaving  Greene  the  train 
enters  tlie  State  of  Connecticut,  and  pa.sses  the  stations,  Oneco,  Sterlijig, 
IMoosup,  and  IMainOeld.  The  latter  station  is  in  the  Indian  district  of 
Quiunibaug,  which  was  bought  liy  Gov.  Winthroj)  in  1G51),  and  settled 
by  Massachusetts  people.  From  the  great  (juantities  of  corn  which  it 
produced,  it  was  called  in  theeoloinal  era  the  "  Egypt  of  E.  Connccti;,'ut." 
At  Plainfield  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  U.  II.  crosses  the  line.  After 
l)assing  the  stations,  Canterbury,  Jewett  City,  Lovetts,  Baltic,  WaUlo's, 
and  S.  Windham,  tlie  line  crosses  the  New  London  Northern  Division  of 
the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  at  Willimantic  (liraiiierd's  Hotel).  This  is 
a  large  manufacturing  village,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which  falls 
100  ft,  in  1  M.  E.vtensive  threa<l,  silk,  and  cotton  mills  are  located  on 
the  \vatei>-power  thus  afl'ordeil,  occupying  large  factories  built  of  stone 
found  in  this  vicinity.  The  Air  Line  R.  R.  between  Boston  and  New 
York  passes  through  Willinuintic,  which  is  beconnng  a  great  railroad 
centre.  The  only  legend  connected  with  Windham  (in  which  town  Wil- 
limantic is  situated)  is  of  a  long  ])attle  between  two  hordes  of  immigrat- 
ing frogs,  in  which  several  hundred  of  the  combatants  were  killed.  This 
event  has  been  duly  attested  and  described  by  a  local  poet  in  a  Batrachy- 
omachian  ei)ic  of  30  stanzas.  The  train  now  passes  Andover,  Bolton  (near 
which  is  Bolton  Notch,  a  romantic  pass  into  the  valley  of  the  Connecti- 
cut), and  Vernon.  At  Vernon  a  branch  track  (5  M.)  runs  to  Rockville,  a 
})rospcrous  manufacturing  village  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  the 
Ilockannon  River.  Beyond  V^non  is  Manchester,  which  makes  yearly 
2,000,000  yards  of  gingham,  PO'/.O  pairs  of  socks,  450  tons  of  book-paper, 
besides  government  and  ban 5:  note  paper  for  several  nations.  From 
thence  a  branch  railroad  (2^  M.)  runs  to  S.  Manchester,  the  seat  of  the 
silk-works  of  the  Cheney  Brothers.  After  Manchester  comes  Burnside, 
where  paper-making  was  a  brisk  business  in  1776,  and  where  there  are 
now  3  paper-mills,  whose  yearly  production  is  300  tons  of  writing- 
paper,  400  tons  of  manilla  paper,  and  600  tons  of  book-paper.  The 
next  station  is  E.  Hartford,  with  a  wide,  level  street  lined  with  elms, 
2  M.  long.     This  district  was  the  liome  of  the  Podunk  Indians,  whose 


station  at 

ry. 

,  furo  S  3.30. 

nston,  Oftk 

Niiumuk, 

.gcs  in  tlio 

y  the  lui>,'e 

)  the  train 

I),  Ster)inp, 

district  of 

hikI  Hctlh'tl 

II  which  it 

iiucctijut." 

iue.     Alter 

i,  Wuklo's, 

)ivi.sion  of 

).     Tliis  is 

wliich  falls 

located  on 

It  of  stono 

aiid  New 

;  railroad 

own  Wil- 

iininigrut- 

ed.     This 

Batrachy- 

)ltoii  (near 

Conuecti- 

ockville,  a 

I  by  the 

CCS  yearly 

)ok -paper. 

From 

at  of  the 

Burnside, 

there  are 

writing- 

Der.      The 

itli  elms, 

ns,  whose 


I 

I 


AND  WATEUUUllY. 


liouic  u.     05 


'( 


chief,  Tutauimo,  coidd  hriiig  200  Iwwiiieii  into  the  field.  The  tnihi  now 
croHses  the  hro.id  ('oiiuecti<rut  Uivcr  and  enters  the  city  of  llaidord  (see 
Koute'Jl).  Connettions  are  made  lu-rc  with  tiu;  New  llavcn,  llartfonl, 
and  SprinKll«lil  II.  fl.  (llonto  "21 ,  for  New  York  or  Boston)  ;  also  wtth  the 
Conn.  Western  (Kouto  *2<))  and  the  Conn.  Valley  (Uoute  11)  Railroads. 
rri»ni  Hartford  the  line  runs  liy  Newinj^ton  to  New  Britain  (Sini'luiiui 
i  .tsc,  Iliiiii/ihri'!/  House),  a  wealthy  and  w:)rking  town.  Th  >  water-snpply 
is  from  a  large  reservoir  some  2U()  ft,  above  the  villa;4e.  In  the  centre  of 
the  town  is  a  spacious  srjuare,  adorned  with  trees  and  fountains,  and  near 
its  end  is  the  elegant  and  imposing  S.  Cong.  Church.  In  the  same  vicinity 
is  the  State  Normal  School.  The  products  of  the  industry  of  New 
Britain  are  varietl  and  ex^ensi''".  The  Russel  and  Krwin  (-o.  employs  500 
mi!!!  in  5  acres  of  works,  and  sends  out  millions  of  dollars'  worth  of  locks, 
which  are  used  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Hardware,  lice,  hose,  merino 
goofls,  gold  jewelry,  and  knives  are  made  here  in  large  (^viantities. 

Klihu  Ilunitt,  tlio  "  lea  hum  1  hlacksiiiith,"  was  lM)m  at  New  Itritain  In  ISll.  At 
tilt'  a;^t!  of  lU,  lie  was  aiiiireiiticcil  to  ;i  li'.acksiiiitli,  and  followeil  that  trade  for 
in:iiiy yeirs.  Dc-iirin.,'  to  n-ad  tlic^  Mihie  in  its  (iii;,'iiial  l.in,.cii;i;^'es,  lie  inusterecl  tlio 
Greek  and  Hebrew  by  oveainj^  stmlies,  and  aeijuired  such  a  i)liili)l();^'iral  taste, 
tliat  lio  aflerwardd  tiecaiiie  I'aniiliar  witli  all  the  ithiieipal  aiteieiit  and  niouern 
taiiKuaj^es.  He  l)e('anie  an  einiest  advocate  i/f  universal  peace,  teinperaiice,  and 
the  abolition  o;"  slavery,  ami  published  a  paper  and  several  txioks  in  tlei'etico  of 
these  niovenieiits.  Afttsr  in  ikin.;  several  visits  to  Europe,  ho  became  U.  SJ.  Con- 
sul at  HinnMi^diaiii,  where  ho  has  since  remained. 

At  Plainville,  the  next  station,  the  New  Haven  and  Northampton  R.  R. 
(Uoute  If))  crosses  this  route.  Many  carriages  are  made  in  this  village. 
At  Forestville,  Bristol,  and  Terryville  stations  are  many  large  clockf<»o- 
tories,  where  every  variety  of  clocks  are  made.  After  passing  several 
flag  stations,  the  train  stops  at  Waterhury  {Adams  House,  Scon'H's). 
This  is  a  small  city  (of  10,S2G  inhabitants),  on  a  narrow  jilateau  at 
the  Junction  of  the  Mad  ami  Naugatuck  Rivers.  The  jirincipal  streets 
diverge  from  Centre  Stpiare,  a  small  ]>ut  well-kept  Green,  on  which  front 
two  Cong,  churches,  the  new  and  elegant  building  of  the  City  Hall,  and 
St.  John's  Episcopal  Church.  The  latter  is  called  the  iinest  church  in 
the  State,  and  is  built  of  granite  and  Ohio  stone  in  the  pointed  Gothic 
style.  The  sharply  jiointed  ceiling  is  highly  ornamented,  and  the  spire 
(200  ft.  high)  uplifts  a  massive  stone  cross.  The  Silas  Bronson  Library, 
the  gift  of  a  New  York  gentlemen,  contains  13,000  volumes  aud  is  free  to 
the  citizens.  On  the  hill  near  the  St^uare  is  a  large  boarding-school  for 
young  ladies. 

The  manufacturing  interests  of  the  city  employ  a  capital  of  nearly 
$  8,000,000.  I  2,000,000  are  invested  in  the  brass- works,  besides  which 
there  are  5  button-factories,  2  clock-factories,  and  works  which  turn  out 
great  quantities  of  wire,  steel  traps,  hooks  and  eyes,  hoo]»-skirts,  and 
kerosene  fixtures.     The  American  Pin  Co.,  the  American  Suspender  Co., 


■9« 


m  \ 


96       noute  12.      NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 

and  the  American  Flask  and  Cap  Co.,  liavc  their  works  here.  Silver- 
j»lated  ware  is  made  in  large  quantities,  also  the  best  cjuality  of  steel 
rolls. 

There  is  a  pleasant  drive,  iniK^li  fif  tlio  way  on  ihe  quiet  and  einliowered  river- 
road,  ti)  tlie  Kiverside  (Jcnietory  (l.V  M.),  a  small  but  ])i(tiires(]ue  rural  ground 
iiiiiiiiij,'  the.  fonist-eovercd  liills  M.  o.   tlie  Naii^'atiick  River. 

Al,  Wntcrbiny  the  Nauj,'atuck  K.  H.  coiiiici-ts  with  the  Hartfi  I,  Provideuee, 
and  Fislikill  line.  The  latter  mad  liiids  lis  teriuinns  here,  but  work  is  ]iro{;^ess- 
iii;4  on  seet'ons  passiii.i,'  throu^li  IIa\vlcy\  ill;'.  Daiibury,  and  Bn-wster  (N.  Y.),  to 
Fish!ull,  on  tlie  Hudson  River.  The  river  will  probably  be  bridged,  and  a  eon- 
neetion  made  with  the  Erie  Railroad,  thus  opening  a  new  route  between  Boston 
and  tlie  West. 

12.  New  London  to  Vermont. 

Via  the  New  London  Xf>rtherii  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  New 
London  to  Br-  *tleboro',  120  iJ. 

The  train  leaves  the  Shore  Line  Station  at  New  London.  Beautiful 
views  of  the  broad  and  expansive  Thantes  on  the  E.,  so  a  seat  sliould  be 
secured  on  the  r.  side  of  tiie  car.  Near  Mohegan  is  the  old  Mohegan 
reservation,  where  824  In<lians  of  that  tribe  were  numbered  in  1774. 
After  passing  Waterford,  Montville,  Massai)eag,  ^^ohegan,  and  Thames- 
ville,  the  train  crosses  the  Yantic  River,  and  enters  Norwioh  (*  Waureyan 
Jlonse,  .S 2. 50 -,$3. 00,  corner  Main  and  Union  Sts. ;  Uncus  Hotel,  small, 
near  station;  American  House).  Norwich  is  a  city  of  16,G53  inhab. 
Avith  its  streets  terraced  on  a  steep  accdivity  facing  to  the  S,  over  the 
lake  like  Tliaine.s,  of  which  a  local  writer  claims  that  "not  Riclmiond 
Hill  itself,  or  Greenwich  observatory,  looks  on  a  Thames  more  fair." 
The  situation  of  the.  city  is  indeed  beautiful,  being  on  high  ground  be- 
tween the  Yantic  and  Shetucket  Rivers,  which  here  unite  to  form  the 
Thames.  The  business  ])art  of  Norndch  is  in  a  semicircle  of  which  Main 
St.,  from  Franklin  Scpiare  to  Central  Wharf  Bridge,  is  the  ciiord,  and 
beyond  this  j,he  residence-streets  rise  in  terraced  lines.  Tlie  banks,  stores, 
and  hotels  are  mostly  in  the  district  between  Main  St.  and  the  rivers. 
The  city  and  county  buildings  are  neat  and  substantial,  and  there  are 
two  or  three  fin  3  churches. 

Washington  St.  and  Broadway  are  noble  avenues  lined  witli  large 
and  secluded  old  mansions.  The  former  street  runs  near  the  Yantic, 
]>assing  the  ivy-cdad  Christ  Church  (Epis.),  and  ends  at  Williams  Park,  or 
the  Parade,  near  wliich  is  the  mansion  of  the  Revolutionary  General  Wil- 
liams, and  the  imposing  building  of  tl'.e  Free  Academy.  The  latter  is  a 
iiiixed  school,  of  high  grade  and  of  a  wide  reputation.  Turning  to  the  1. 
from  the  Parade,  Sachem  St.  (opposite  the  Academy)  leads  to  a  pretty 
rural  cemetery  on  the  hills  over  the  river.  In  this  vicinity  were  the 
Yantic  Falls,  whose  praises  have  been  sounded  by  Mrs.  Sigoumey  and 
othei's,  both  in  i)rose  and  verse.  A  deep  cutting  in  the  hard  rock,  and 
curiously  piled  and  water-worn  boulders,  are  all  that  remain  of  "the 


m 


"w/mt 


NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT,       Jioute  12.       97 


ks  here.     Silver- 
\.  (juality  of  steel 


1  emliowered  river- 
;s(]ue  niral  ground 

rtl'  1,  Providenop, 
t  work  is  vroKross- 
trcwster  (N.  Y.),  to 
•ridged,  and  a  ctm- 
tc  between  Boston 


tr?\l  Railroad,   New 

3ndon.     Beautiful 
0  a  seat  should  be 
the  oltl  Mohegan 
unheved  in  1774. 
::^an,  and  Thames- 
ivioli(*  Waureyan 
ncas  Hotel,  small, 
of  1G,G63  inhab. 
to  the  S.  over  the 
t  "not  llichniond 
lames  more  fair." 
high  ground  be- 
unite  to  form  the 
■cle  of  which  Main 
is  the  chord,  and 
Tlie  banks,  stores, 
•ii.  and  the  rivers, 
tial,  and  there  are 

lined  with  large 
near  the  Yautic, 
Williams  Park,  or 

mary  General  Wil- 
The  latter  is  a 
Turning  to  the  1. 
k-ads  to  a  pretty 
vicinity  were  the 

Irs.   Sigoumey  and 
he  hard  rock,  and 

it  remain  of  "the 


f. 


beetling  cliffs,  the  compressed  channel,  the  confused  nia-ss  of  granite,  and 
the  roaring,  foaming  river,"  by  which  a  former  generation's  "lone  enthu- 
siasts wandered  and  dreamed."  The  river  ha.s  l)een  dammed  and  diverted 
into  an  artificial  channel,  through  which  it  a^ords  a  heavy  water-power 
to  a  large  cluster  of  factories  below.  Fine  wood-carving  ;nachinery,  rub- 
ber goods,  corks,  iron  pii)es,  files,  blankets  anil  carpets,  Hax  and  twine, 
paper,  envelopes,  and  cotton  goods  are  manufactured  in  Norwich  and  its 
tributary  villages.  On  Sachem  St.,  near  the  site  of  the  Falls,  is  a  little 
cemetery  in  a  cluster  of  i)ine-trees.  This  si)ot  was  chosen  centuries  ago 
as  a  sepulchral  ground  for  the  "  blood  royal  of  Mohegan,"  and  ha«  been 
carefully  reserved  Vjy  the'  tribe  ever  since.  Many  of  the  Grand  Sachems 
are  buried  here,  from  those  earlier  chiefs  of  whom  earthly  history  has  no 
record  down  to  Mazeen,  the  last  of  the  line,  who  was  buried  in  1826  in 
the  presence  of  25-30  of  the  feeble  remnant  of  the  tribe.  In  the  centre 
of  the  ancient  monuments  stands  a  massive  obelisk  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Uiicas.     (Its  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  President  Jackson.) 

Uneas  was  a  chi*  f  of  ilie  Pccjuot  tribe,  who  revolted  in  16.'{4  against  the  Sachem 
Sassacns,  and  joined  the  Moliegans.  He  was  chosen  Sacliei.i  of  the  latter  tribe, 
and  by  sagai'ious  alliances  with  tlie  English  cohtnists,  he  steadily  increased  the 
] lower  of  his  jteoj^e,  who  had  jireviously  held  a  subordinate  position  among  the 
aboriginal  clans.  He  led  his  warriors  l)y  the  side  of  th(!  colonial  train-bands  in 
the  campaign  of  KW?,  wliich  annihilated  Ids  most  dreadeil  foe,  the  Pecpiot  tribe  ; 
and  in  1(34:{,  Ic  fought  tip;  jjowerful  Narragansetts  until  the  Atigh)-Mohegau 
forces,  under  his  direetion,  luul  defeated  and  humbled  th.it  trib :.  He  repelled  an 
invasion  of  the  Western  In<lians,  aided  l»y  a  strong  Mohawk  contingent,  in  ItMS, 
and  kept  up  an  incessant  war  upon  his  Indian  neiglibors  until  he  became  "tlie 
most  powerful  and  jirosi)erous  j)rince  in  New  England."  In  1G40  he  ceded  to  tlie 
colony  of  Conn,  all  his  land  except  a  tract  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Thames  eni- 
liraeing  three  or  four  townships,  and  sold  (for  £70)  tlie  i)re.sent  site  of  Norwi(di, 
which  was  occupied  in  IHCiO  by  a  nomadic  church  fmn;  Saybrook.  He  frecinently 
visited  the  colonial  caititals,  Boston  and  Hartford,  and  ever  remained  friendly  to 
the  settlers,  holding  his  people  to  iieac(;;'ul  Wi  vs  while  every  other  tril)e  of  New 
Engl.md  (e-xcei)t  the  Christian  Indians)  joined  King  Philip's  league  against  tlio 
colonies.  xVfter  reigning  as  Sachiim  of  J.he  Mohagans  for  nearly  ;'<0  years,  he  died 
in  108;<,  a  c(»ns'stent  Pagan  to  the  last.  He  was  crafty,  cruel,  and  rapacious  in 
his  policy  ;  but  as  the  head  of  a  savage  people,  he  was  sagacious  ami  far-sighted, 
and  as  a  military  leader  he  was  skilful  and  fearless.  It  is  diHleult  to  tell  what 
would  have  been  the  course  of  New  England  history,  or  wliat  linal  and  over- 
whelming disasters  might  have  blotted  out  those  feeble  colonies  along  the  coast, 
had  not  the  tw.i  gi-eat  southern  tril»es  been  ruined  by  the  attacks  (sometimes 
aided  by  a  few  dozen  English  musketeers)  of  the  Mohegans  uniler  tlu'ir  Sachem, 
Uncas.  Beyond  the  viHage  of  (ireenville  is  Sachem^s  Plain  (IJ-vJ  M.  from 
Norwich.  Horse-cars  most  of  the  way).  Here  was  fought  a  battle  between  Ali- 
antonomoh  and  UOO  Narragansetts,  and  Uncas  with  &00  Moliegans. 

Miantonomoh  was  the  ncpliev-  of  Canonicus,  and  in  Ui'M  sui-ceeded  to  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  Narragansetts.  He  was  ever  a  lirm  friend  to  tlje  colonists,  grant- 
ing them  a  large  portion  of  the  present  8tate  of  Khode  Island,  an<l  leaving  his 
quarrels  with  Uncas  to  their  arbitration,  in  1()42  he  went  to  Boston  to  meet 
certain  men  who  had  accused  him  of  planning  hostilities  against  the  eolonie*. 
He  awaited  his  accusers  in  the  presence  of  the  Governor  and  council  of  Massa- 
chusetts, but  no  charges  were  preferre<l  against  him,  and  he  left  Boston  after  re- 
ceiving higl'  honors  from  Gov.  SVintliro]»,  who  admired  his  character.  In  the 
following  year,  stung  to  madness  by  insults  oll'ereil  by  Uncas,  iie  led  itOO  Narra- 
gansett  warriors  in  an  attack  on  Mohegan.  Uncas  and  ."JO!)  men  met  him  on 
Hachem'a  Plain,  and  in  accordance  with  a  plan  preconcerted  by  the  Mohegan 

5  a 


98       Route  12.      NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


1    ) 


r   \ 


chiefs,  invited  him  to  a  parley.  Whilo  this  parley  was  going  on,  and  the  Narra- 
gansetts  were  oil"  their  guard,  the  Moho^uiis  made  a  llerce  and  sudden  att'ick  and 
scattered  them  in  all  directions.  Tin;  ])ursuit  was  couLiniied  for  many  miles,  and 
hundreds  of  the  invader.-;  fell,  bat  Miant<momoli  was  eaptiwed  and  led  prii;oner  to 
Hartford.  Alter  remaining  here  in  close  oonllnement,  he  was  surrendered  to  Un- 
ca.s,  by  whom,  "by  the  advice  and  con.sent  of  the  English  magistrates  and  elders," 
ho  was  executed.  The  royal  Narragausett  was  carried  by  Uncas  and  his  warriors 
from  Hartford  to  Norwicli,  and  was  put  to  death  on  the  battle-lield  of  'Sachem's 
Plain,  at  a  jdace  now  marlied  by  a  stone  monument  inscribed  "  Miar  tonojnoh, 
104:5."  He  was  a  brave,  magnanimous,  and  humane  Sachem,  incapable  of  dissim- 
ulation or  treachery,  and  tlieretnre  he  i)ecame  their  victim. 

For  numy  years  his  people  came  hither  iu  the  sea.sou  of  flowera  and  adorned  his 
grave,  each  of  them  leaving  a  stone  ui>on  it.  The  lofty  cairn  thus  formed  re- 
mained till  a  farmer  (of  the  English  "  Hodge"  type)  carried  away  the  stones  to 
make  a  foundation  for  a  new  barn.  In  ISll,  the  present  granite  monument  was 
erected. 

Nanunteno,  the  son  of  Miantonomoh,  p.nd  his  successor  in  the  government, 
ever  cherished  a  ju.st  hatred  of  the  colonists,  and  joincil  King  I'hilip's  league  with 
eidhnsiasm.  Flaving  been  made  prisoner,  in  1(J7(5,  he  was  oll'ered  pardon  in  case 
he  would  treat  with  the  English.  On  dcidining  t'>  make  terms,  he  was  threatened 
with  instant  deatli,  whereui)on  he  answered,  "  I  like  it  well ;  I  sliall  die  before  my 
heart  is  soft,  or  I  have  spoken  anything  unworthy  of  my.sclf"  ;  "acting  herein," 
says  Cotton  Mather,  "as  if,  by  a  Pythagorean  metempsychosis,  some  old  Roman 
ghost  had  possessed  the  body  of  this  Western  Pagan,  like  Attilius  Ileg'.".us."  He 
was  instantly  shot. 

About  5  M.S.  of  Norwich  is  the  old  fortress  of  Uncas,  on  the  highest  liill  in 
Mohegan,  and  in  the  vicinity  live  the  few  hair-l)rceds  wlio  are  all  that  remain  of 
the  tribe  of  Uncas.  President  Dwight's  remark  alxmt  tlie  I'etinots  /^  Groton  will 
apply  ecpially  well  to  the  Mohegaiis  or  to  the  Narragansetts  in  '  bti  s  ' wn,  R.  I., 
"  the  former  proud,  heroic  spirit  of  the  Pequot  is  siirunk  into  ihe  ^  uacness  and 
torjior  of  reasoning  brutism." 

Steamers  leave  Norwich  every  morning,  in  summer,for  New  London  and  Watch 
Hill.     The  Norwich  and  Worcester  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  above  the  city. 

After  leaving  Norwicli  the  line  passes  the  stations  Norwich  Town,  Yan- 
tic,  Franklin,  and  Lebanon.  Tl'.e  village  of  Lebanon,  ';'tuated  iu  a  ricli 
farming  district,  was  very  lively  during  the  War  for  independence.  Jon- 
athan Trumbull,  Governor  of  Conn.  1709-83,  resided  here,  and  here  was 
tlie  War  Office  of  the  State,  which  furnished  more  men  and  money  in  the 
Revolutionary  War  than  any  other  State  save  Massachusetts.  Gov. 
Trumbull  was  Washington's  right-hand  man  during  the  northern  cam- 
paigns, and  when  any  perplexing  question  or  pressing  demand  arose,  the 
iiobl;  Virghiian  would  often  say,  **Let  us  see  what  Brother  Jon.itlian 
says."  The  name  "Brother  Jonathan"  has  passed  into  imiversal  ^t  jw 
a  humorous  designation  of  the  U.  S.,  corresponding  to  the  "John 
which  is  applied  to  England.  At  the  gubernatorial  mansion  in  Lcb;.i!  t7 
Trumbull  received  Washington,  Lafayette,  Rochambeau,  Jeffcrsoa, 
Franklin,  and  otlier  distinguished  men.  Five  French  icgiments  were  can- 
toned in  the  town  and  reviewed  by  the  conmiander-in-chief,  while  De 
Lauzion's  Legion  (500  horsemen)  wintered  here.  The  Trumbull  man.sion  | 
and  W^ar  Ollice  are  still  standing,  and  in  the  little  cemetery  E.  of  the  vil- 
lage is  the  family  vault. 

The  most  i>rominent  of  the  Tmmbulls  are  Jonathan,  Clov.  of  Conn.  17G0-S3  ; 
Jcmathan,  his  son,  M,  C.  in  1789-95,  U.  S.  Senator  in  1795-0,  and  Governor  inl 
1798 -ISUO  :  Josepii,  another  son,  commissary -general  of  the  Continciital  Army  J 


NEW  LONDOy  TO  VERMONT.       Route  12.       99 


and  the  Narra- 
niacu  attack  an«l 
luiiny  niil03,  and 
id  led  prisoner  to 
iiTcndercd  to  Un- 
rates  and  elders, 
;  and  his  warnors 
-held  of  "^aeholn•a 

I  "  Miar  tononioh, 
capaVde  of  dissim- 

i-s  and  adorned  his 
ti  thus  formed  re- 
way  the  stones  to 
tp  monument  was 

II  the  government, 
•hilip's  leagiie  with 
.re.l  pardon  in  case 

he  was  threatened 
'shall  die  before  my 
'•  "acting  herein, 
is,  some  old  Roman 
ilius  lleg'Aus.'      lie 

n  the  highest  hill  in 
e  all  that  remain  ot 
;-nots  AUrotoiiwiU 
a  .  bnv  s  'wn,K.  1-. 
,0  i-Lie.  .  Jii^ness  and 

.w  London  and  Watch 
E.,  above  the  city. 

ovwicli  Town,  Yan- 
,  nHuated  in  a  rich 
ulepenelence.     Jon- 
heve,  and  here  was 
u  and  money  in  the 
.ssachusetts.      Gov. 
the  northern  cam- 
y  demand  arose,  the 
\  Brother  Jonathan 
iito  universal      -;  iw 
to  the  "John  "^   •" 
uar.siou  in  Leb..i>  f' 
ambeau,     Jefferson, 
logiments  were  can- 
ler-in-chief,  while  De 
.e  TrmnhuU  mansion 
"nietery  E.  of  the  vil- 

r.ov  of  Conn.  17G0-S3: 
;;;r-:G.  ai.d  Governor  m 
the  Coi'.tiuv.-iita).  Arm)  . 


J(»3eph,  gramlson  of  "  Brother. Tonathan,"  5  year^  M.  C,  and  2  years  Gov.  of  Conn. ; 
Lyman  Truiiibull  (born  near  Lebanon  in  181:0.  tin-  r.nlnent  jurist  and  U.  S.  Sena- 
tor from  Illinois,  lS.jr>-7'J  ;  and  Col.  .John  Trumbull  (some  time  of  the  1st  Conn., 
and  afterwards  aide  to  W.ishin;;ton),  who  studieil  i)aintin'?  un<lcr  West,  in  Lon- 
don, and  executeil  many  lar.^'e  historical  pictures,  depii'ting  scones  of  the  Ucvoli:- 
tion'ary  era.  Four  of  his  works  arc  in  tlie  rotunda  of  the  N'ational  Capitol,  and  a 
^'ood  collectiim  of  his  paintings  is  in  th  >  Athenanuu  at  Hartford.  The  Art  Gal- 
lery of  Yale  College  has  a  large  number  of  his  minor  works,  57  in  all. 

The  line  nov  leaves  tlie  Yantic  Valley,  runs  along  the  border  of  the 
Shetucket,  and,  passing  S.  Windham,  stops  at  Willimantic  (see  Route  11 ). 
At  this  point  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishliill,  and  the  New  York 
and  New  England  tracks  cross  the  New  London  Northern  Railroad. 

Running  N.  from  Willimantic,  the  line  follows  the  Willimantic  River, 
through  the  county  of  Tolland.  Stations,  S.  Coventry,  Eagleville  (with 
large  sheet'ug  manufactories),  and  MansfieM,  with  four  companies  engaged 
in  making  sewing-silk,  a  profitable  industry  wliich  was  inaugurated  here 
in  the  last  century.  Stations,  Merrow,  S.  Willingtoii,  anil  Tolland,  about 
i  M.  W.  Oj"  which  is  a  scrpie.stered  village  containing  the  modest  county 
buildmgs.  Stafford  is  oi'le>)nitcd  for  its  mineral  springs,  the  principal 
one  being  among  the  best  of  chalybeate  springs.  It  contains  coiisiderablo 
iron  in  solution,  with  carbonic  acid  and  natron,  and  is  a  pleasant  water  to 
the  taste.  It  is  held  to  be  very  efficacious  in  all  cutaneous  aiTections. 
The  other  spring,  which  is  charge. I  with  hydrogen  gas  and  sulphur,  has 
become  choked  up,  and  has  long  been  disused.  The  Indians  were  in  tho 
habit  of  using  these  w-aters  with  beneficial  effect,  and  the  wliites  began  to 
visit  the  springs  about  110  years  ago. 

The  Stafford  Springs  House  is  a  large  and  inexpensive  hotel  near  tlie 
chalybeate  spring,  on  the  1.  of  the  track.  >    ,     , 

The  train  now  runs  N.  for  10  M,  across  the  sparsely  populated  town  of 
Stafford,  and  at  State  Line  it  enters  the  State  of  Massachusetts.  The 
town  of  Monson  is  ne.xt  crossed  (11  M.).  Much  manufacturing  is  done 
here  along  a  branch  of  the  Chicopee  River,  and  a  fine  granite  cpiarry  is  to 
be  seen  near  the  central  station,  from  which  great  quantities  of  stone  have 
been  sent  to  Albany  for  the  new  State  House.  The  e.xtensive  buildings 
of  the  State  Almshouse  are  in  tliis  town. 

Station,  Palmer,  where  this  loute  crosses  the  great  trunk  line  of  tho 
Boston  and  Albany  R.  R.  (Route  21). 

The  Ware  River  R.  R.,  which  is  to  run  via  Barre  to  Peterboro,  N.  IF.,  is  com- 
pleted from  Palmer  to  Gilbcrtville  .ind  Ware. 

Tlic  soil  of  Ware  is  singular,  even  in  New  England,  for  its  hardness  and  ster- 
ility. It  was  granted  to  a  comiwMy  of  the  veterans  of  King  l'hili])'s  War,  but 
after  due  examination  they  sold  it  for  2  cents  an  acre.  Presi<lciit  l>wi]Ldit  rode 
tlirough  Ware,  and  said  of  its  soil,  "  It  is  like  self-righteousness,  the  more  a  man 
has  of  it  the  poorer  he  is."  The  poetic  account  of  the  genesis  uf  Ware  asserts 
that 

"  Dame  Nature  once,  while  makinp  land, 
\,  •  Ilad  refuse  left  of  stone  and  Miind  !  , 

:'  She  viewed  it  well.  tl. on  throw  it  down  \  »   •_   '■ 

■:  Between  Cov's  Hill  aii.l  BolehertDwn, 

li  And  Buiil, '  You  paltry  stutf.  lie  there. 

And  iii:\k(' a  town  niifl  imU  it  W:ire.'" 


100    Jimtte  12.      NKW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


•■  ^'  T 


Stations,  Three  Rivers  (near  wliicli  the  Cliicopee  Rive-  is  crossed),  Bar- 
rets, and  Rclcliertowu  {Belcher  Hmise),  a  (jniet  hill-town  of  llampsliire 
Connty,  who3e  present  name  is  scarcely  an  improvement  on  its  original 
appellation  (in  the  colonial  era)  of  Cold  Spring. 

From  Tlirce  Rivers  the  AtlKil  and  EtificM  R.  R.  runs  thrmi^^li  the  sparsely 
poimlafed  towns  of  Knfield,  Greeiiwirli,  Dana,  and  New  Halein  (all  tlie  villages  hy 
the  railroa<l  have  small  inns)  to  Athol  {,Vo  M.  I'runi  rainier)  on  the  Vt.  and  Mass. 
II.  R.  (see  Route  25). 

After  running  across  Belchertown  (13  M.)  the  train  passes  S.  Amherst 
and  stops  at 

Amherst  {Amherst  Hotel,  $2.50  a  day,  A  M.  from  the  station),  a 
pretty  village  situated  in  a  romantic  district,  and  distinguished  for 
its  college.  Its  society  is  of  that  ciiltiired  and  reiined  order  which  is 
usually  found  in  American  acadei  ac  towns,  and  its  lesthetic  taste  is  seen 
in  the  line  anihitecturc  of  its  churches  (notahly  Grace  Church  and  the 
1st  Congregational),  The  buildings  of  Amherst  College  (founded  in 
1821)  are  located  on  a  hill  on  the  edge  of  the  village  to  the  S.  On  the 
street  W.  of  the  buildings  are  the  President's  House,  the  Library,  and 
College  Hall.  The  curious  octagonal  structure  with  a  bright  blue  dome, 
which  stands  in  advance  of  the  line  of  college  lialls,  is  devoted  to  the  dis- 
play of  rare  collections.  Part  of  it  is  occupied  by  the  Lawrence  Observ- 
atory, and  on  the  npper  story  are  the  great  *  cabinets  of  minerals  and 
meteorites  prepared  and  collected  by  Prof.  C.  U.  Shepard,  a  disciple  of 
Silliman,  who  has  been  for  the  last  45  years  one  of  the  leading  physicists 
of  America.  These  collections  "  are  only  surpa.ssed  by  those  of  the  Brit- 
i.sh  Museum  and  the  Imperial  Cabinet  at  Vienna. "  They  represent  an 
immense  value,  some  single  pieces  having  cost  thousands  of  dollars.  The 
largest  ruby  in  the  world  is  .shown  here,  being  2  ft.  high  by  1  ft.  in  diam- 
eter. It  was  foiuid  in  N.  Carolina.  A  sapphire,  in  the  cabinet,  weighs 
30  lbs.,  and  many  other  rare  and  costly  specimens  are  here  preserved. 
On  the  lower  floor  is  Wood's  Cabinet  of  geology  and  palaeontology,  em- 
bracing over  20,000  specimens.  The  Nineveh  Gallery  opens  out  of  Wood's 
Cal)inet,  and  contains  many  Oriental  and  Indian  relics,  together  with  a 
collection  of  rare  c^his  and  medals.  Along  the  walls  of  this  room  ary 
arranged  a  succession  of  large  *  Assyrian  sculptures  from  the  palace  of 
Sardanapalus,  at  Nineveh.  E.  of  this  building  is  the  line  of  the  older  col- 
lege-halls, N.  College,  the  old  Chapel,  and  S.  College.  These  are  in  the 
early  Novanglian  architecture,  and  closely  resemble  the  older  halls  of 
Harvard.  At  the  S.  end  of  this  line  is  the  Aiii)leton  Cabinet,  whose  up- 
per story,  surrounded  by  barbarous  frescos,  contains  several  collections! 
embracing  5,900  species  of  animals  and  8,000  species  of  shelis,  preparet 
by  Prof.  Adams,  of  Amherst,  the  conchologist  An  Herbarium  (in  thtj 
same  hall)  contains  4-5,000  kinds  of  plants,  while  .seeds,  lichens,  &o.J 
are  arranged  in  other  cabinets. 


NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.       Route  12.     101 


s  crossed),  "Par- 

i  of  Hampsliive 

on  its  origiiuil 

Mi^h  the  sparsely 

(all  tlie  villages  1.y 

the  Vt.  aud  Mass. 

asses  S.  Amherst 

1  the  station),  a 
aistiuguisiied  for 
(1  order  wliich  is 
hetic  taste  is  seen 
:e  Church  an<l  tlie 
Liege  (founded  iu 
;o  the  S.     On  the 
,  the  Library,  and 
bright  i)lue  dome, 
devoted  to  the  dis- 
e  Lawrence  Observ- 
ts  of  minerals  aud 
yard,  a  disciple  of 
li  leading  physieists 
,y  tiiose  of  the  Brit- 

They  represent  an 
uds  of  dollars.  The 
gh  by  1  ft.  i"  ^^i^^"'- 
°the  cubhiet,  weighs 

are  here  preserved. 

d  palifiontology,  em- 

-  opens  out  of  Wood's 

lies,  together  vith  a 
.lis  of  this  room  are. 
from  the  palace  oC 
J  line  of  the  older  col- 
j..     These  are  in  the 
e  the  older  halls  of 
n  Cabinet,  whose  up- 
iis  several  colleetions 
es  of  shells,  prepared 
u  Herbarium  (iu  the 
le  seeda,  lichens,  kc, 


On  the  lower  floor  is  a  hall  110  ft.  long  by  45  ft.  wide,  whevein  are  kept 

9,000  specimens  of  ancient  tracks  in  stone.     This  wonderfid  *colliM-tii)U 

is  by  far  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  well  illustrates  the  science  of  iili- 

nology  which  first  arose  at  Amherst.     The  tracks  of  birds,  beasts,  and 

reptiles,  which  have  been  dead  perhaps  a  myriad  of  years,  and  the  marks 

of  the  pattering  of  rain-storms  which  fell  through  the  silent  air  of  pns- 

historic  ages,  are  here   preserved  on  the  sandstone  of  the  Connecticut 

valley. 

Edward  Ilitchcock,  T>.  D.,  the  founder  of  ichnolorjieal  scionee,  was  bom  at 
Deertield,  Mass.,  in  170.'5.  He  was  eonnected  with  Amherst  CoUejje,  either  as 
professor  or  i)resident,  from  18iJj  to  18'j4,  and  pliniitid  and  executed  the  geological 
s'liTey  of  Mass.,  "the  lirst survey  of  an  entin;  Stati'  under  tlie  authority  of  gov- 
cmmcnt  in  the  world."  Ife  puhlisherl  20-2.J  volumes,  mostly  on  geological  snh- 
jects,  of  which  the  "  Klenientiirj'  Geology"  and  the  "Ueligiou  of  Geology" 
pa.ssed  through  many  editions  in  Aiiierica  and  England.  "Tlie  Ichnology  ^^x 
New  England,"  iiubiished  by  the  HUitc  in  ISOS,  illustrated  aud  exi-lained  tin) 
branch  of  science  which  he  founded. 

E.  of  a  line  of  old  dormitoricg  is  a  verdant  lawn  covered  with  trees,  at 
the  farther  end  of  whicli  is  E.  C ullege,  which  is  soon  to  be  taken  down  on 
accoimt  of  its  insecurity.  Tliis  building  completely  hides  the  new  and 
elegant  *  Memorial  Chapel,  whose  exterior  is  a  beautiful  model  of  Gotliic 
architecture.  It  is  cruciform  in  shape  with  finely  finished  rose-windows 
in  the  transept,  and  colonettes  of  polished  Scotch  granite  at  various  point.-j 
on  the  outside.  Tlie  graceful  spire  is  built  (as  well  as  the  Chapel  walls) 
of  stone,  and  within  the  tower  is  a  marble  tablet,  containing  the  nanu's 
of  the  alumni  and  past  students  of  Amherst  who  fell  in  the  War  for  tlio 
Union.  From  the  E.  side  of  the  chapel  is  obtained  a  pleasing  view  of  the 
rich  valley  E.  of  Amherst.  The  Bivret  G/mnasiuiu  is  near  the  E.  Coller", 
and  the  N.  side  of  the  prospective  quadrangle  is  occupied  by  two  fine 
stone  buihb'ngs;  the  Walker  Hall,  a  tasteful  and  ornate  structure  sur- 
mounted by  a  3pired  observat^yry,  and  fronted  by  an  elegant  portico, 
formed  by  five  Gothic  arches  supported  on  coupled  columns  ;  and  the 
"Williston  Hall,  a  substantial  stone  building.  Before  leaving  the  College 
Hill,  the  College  Tower  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  tl)e  *  viev/, 
•which  is  one  of  the  mo.st  beautiful  in  New  England,  extending  over  \k\y\a 
of  the  rich  Conn,  valley  and  over  the  rugged  and  picturesciue  towns  of 
eastern  Hampshire.  (Stereoscopic  views  taken  from  the  tower  in  nini 
directions,  as  well  as  of  the  college  buildings,  are  sold  at  a  store  in  the 
village.)  On  the  opposite  side  of  Amherst,  and  about  1  ]\I.  from  the  Green, 
is  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College.  Its  handsome  buildings  are 
on  the  edge  of  a  rich  plain,  from  which  fine  views  are  obtained  of  the 
mountains  on  the  W.  and  S.  On  the  experimental  farm  of  400  acres  is 
the  Durfee  Plant-House,  where  many  rare  and  valuable  plants  are 
preserved.  The  "  Aggies  "  (as  the  students  here  are  called  by  the  other 
New  England  collegians)  are  drilled  to  a  high  state  of  discipline  (infantry 


V 


I 
I 

I 


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.  ;i 


> 


n 


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M  1 


f   ,, 


'  ;t 


'  I 


102     /2o«<c  12.      NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 

and  light  artillery)  by  luilitury  instructors;  and  of  sucli  a  naturo  is  the 
liekl-work,  that,  sincy  its  ostablisliniunt  in  186G,  this  has  beconio  tho 
best  agricultural  school  in  America. 

Excursions  from  Anihorst  to  Norwottuck  Hill  (4  M,),  Northampton 
(7  M.),  Mounts  Holyoke,  Tom,  and  Sugar-Loaf,  aro  easily  madf.  2  M.  E. 
of  the  R.  li.  station  is  th(^  Orient  Springs  IJealth  Institute,  a  large,  ([uiet 
hotel  on  a  far-viewing  and  seipiestered  hill.  Salubrious  mineral  springs 
aro  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  Amlierst  are  the  stations  N.  Andierst  and  Leverett.  The  latter 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  very  picturcscpie  scenery.  On  the  W.  is  Mount 
Mettawampe  (or  Toby),  the  highest  peak  in  the  lower  Connecticut  valley. 
The  line  now  passes  through  Montague,  with  the  Hunting  Hills  on  the  E. 
Stations,  S.  Montague  and  Miller's  Falls,  where  the  Vt.  and  Mass.  R.  R. 
(Route  25)  crosses  the  y>]\  .cut  route.  Stations,  Northfield  Farms  and 
Northfield  {yortltjidd  Ilottl),  a  charming  village  with  broad,  ipiiet  streets, 
built  on  a  plateau  above  the  broad  alluvial  intervales  along  the  Conn. 
River  This  peaceful  agricultural  town  was  settled  in  1673,  on  the  Indian 
lands  called  Sipiawkeague.  During  Iving  Philip's  War  frequent  and 
'^orce  attacks  were  made  upoi;  it  byl!ie  Indians,  and  troops  conveying 
supplies  were  ambushed  and  cv.t  to  pieces.  When  Major  Treat,  with  his 
"  Hying  army  "  of  Conn,  soldiers  reached  the  place,  its  people  evacuated 
it,  an(^  passed,  under  his  escort,  to  a  place  of  safety.  It  was  reoccupied 
in  loSo,  but  Indian  attacks  soon  compelled  the  decimated  settlers  to  leave, 
and  it  lay  desolate  until  1712,  wlien  the  erection  of  Fort  Dumnier  afforded 
sure  defence.  The  station-house  at  S.  Vernon  {Mcrrirs  llolel)  is  on 
the  boundary-line  between  Vermont  and  Massachusetts.  The  broad 
intervales  and  the  (juiet  stream  of  the  Connecticut  River  are  crossed  be- 
tween Northlield  and  Vernon. 

At  S.  Vernon  a  coniieetion  is  made  with  the  Ashuelot  Railroad,  wliieli  passes 
the  staticiii-;,  Hinsdale,  Ashuelot,  Winchester,  Westfonl,  and  SSwanzey  (^all  in  New 
Hanii)shire),  and  at  Keeue  (■onne<'ts  with  the  Cheshire  Railroad.  Hinsdale  was 
settled  by  Mass  iienple  in  l()S;i,  and  was  the  site  of  Hinsdale's  and  Rridgnian'a 
Forts.  Throng. .out  the  early  border-wai-s  it  was  the  scene  of  mnnerons  attacks 
•and  skirmishes,  t)ut  was  boldly  lieM  as  the  outpost  of  colonial  civilization.  Hin.s- 
dale  is  now  a  prosperous  town,  thnm^ih  which  the  Ashuelot  River  flows  to  the 
Connecticut.  From  M hie  Mt.,  a  few  years  a.qo,  volcanic  sii,'ns  were  seen,  and  a 
hiva-like  sub.staiice  was  thrown  out.  An  ancient  Indian  fort  is  situated  on  a  lull 
near  the  river,  and  isolated  from  the  jilateau  Ity  adecj>,  broad  treneh.  VVinidiester 
was  grantini  by,  aiul  settled  from,  IVlass.  in  17:i:},  under  tlie  name  of  Arlington,  and 
was  totiUly  destroyed  by  an  Indian  attack  in  1745.  bwanzey  is  a  large  and  thinly 
populated  town,  settled  under  the  .^ame  circumstances,  and  destroyed  ul  the  same 
time  as  Winchester. 

At  IS.  Vernon  the  Conn.  River  Railroad  from  Springlield  ttirminates. 

From  S.  Vernon  the  New  London  Northern  track  runs  N.  about  9  M. 
through  the  town  of  Vernon  (seats  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car  command  a 
view  of  the  fertile  intervales  of  the  Connecticut,  and  of  the  river  itself). 
Tliis  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  of  Vermont,  and  scores  of  its  early  set- 


N':*Y  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.       fioute  12.     103 


naturo  is  the 
IS  becoiuo   tho 

,  Northampton 
luiuh".  2  M.  E. 
,  a  huge,  ([MU'X 
luincrul  »\n'uv^^ 

■ett.     The  hatt(!r 
he  W.  is  Mount 
mecticut  valley. 
;  ilills  on  the  M 
in<l  Mass.  R.  R. 
it'kl  Farms  and 
ul,  (Hiiet  streets, 
ilong  the  Conn. 
f3,  on  the  Indian 
ir  frefiuent  and 
roops  conveying 
I-  Treat,  with  his 
people  evacuated 
,  was  reoccnpied 
settlers  to  leave, 
Dunnner  afforded 
'irs  Hotel)  is  on 
t'lS.      The  broad 
are  crossed  be- 


■oad,  which  passes 
[\v:in/.t'v  uill  in  New 
l:i(\.     Hinsdale  was 
's  and  Ih-idgmau's 
nuiuevous  attac'ks 
•ivilization.     Hins- 
lUver  lluws  to  the 
were  seen,  and  a 
situateil  on  a  hill 
k'neh.     Winithester 
of  Arlington,  and 
a  large  and  thinly 
;troyed  at  the  same 

liinutes. 

Is  N.  about  9  M. 
car  command  a 
the  river  itself), 
of  its  early  set- 


Thcnext  station  is  Brattleboro*, 


Hers  were  killed  by  the  liostile  Indians. 
rj'»  M.  from  New  Lon<lon. 

Hotels.  -  /Jroo),.'}  Ihiise,  tlie  best  in  Vennnnt,  nceotninodatinjr  175  -  200  gnpsts, 
$3-:t.5(>  a  day;  lUoftlchnro'  Ilntise  (near  the  station),  S'2-'2.M  a  day;  Revere 
Jloiisf ;  tlie  I'urk  llmisi;  (near  tlif  Paik '.  and  tli"  U'<:--isi'lh()i\ft  llmise  (loundod  in 
ISl')  hy  a  (Jennan  water-eiire  piiysician)  are  iar^e  hotels  lor  sinniner  visitors. 

In  17-1  the  i.eijislatiu.-.  of  Ma-.s.  had  a  rmt.  hiult  near  the  river  ami  about  1  M. 
H.  of  lln'  ju'eseiit  village.  This  I'mt,  eallrd  l-urt  DuninnT,  \v;is  garrisnncd  by 
troops  of  the  eolniiy  and  frienilly  Indians,  and  served  as  a  shield  fur  the  river- 
towns.  Though  often  attacki'd,  it  wa-^  iii'vcr  Inst.  'I'he  lirst  settlement  in  tin* 
State  was  located  here  under  the  ]ir(itection  of  the  fort,  and  but  two  or  three 
small  villages  were  established  in  the  tS.  part  until  the  eonipiest  of  Canatln,  after 
whieh,  from  ITOit  io  17GS,  i:),S  townships  were  granted  in  Vermont.  In  \7M,  the 
vdlage  near  Kort  Duinmer  was  named  Hrattleborough,  in  honor  of  Col.  lirattle,  a 
«lisiinguishe(l  Bostonian,  who  was  one  of  iis  proprietors. 

Brattleboro'  is  a  large  village  well  and  compactly  built,  at  the  junction 
of  Whetstone  Brook  (whicli  alTords  a  considerable  water-power)  with  tho 
Connecticut.  The  location  of  the  village  is  beautiful,  being  on  an  uneven 
plateau  above  the  great  ^-iver,  am'  surrounded  by  lofty  hills.  Main  St., 
the  princii»al  thoroughfare,  is  near  ami  parallel  to  the  river,  and  100  ft, 
above  it.  The  Rrook,  with  its  numerous  factories,  is  near  the  station,  in 
the  S.  of  the  village.  A  beautifid  view  of  Brattleboro'  and  its  moimtain- 
ampitlicatro  is  enjoyed  from  Cemetery  Hill,  an  eminence  ju.st  S.  of  the 
town.  The  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  filled  by  tho  dark  and  fro\vuing 
mas.ses  of  Mine  and  Wantastiquet  Mts.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  village  is  a 
pretty  park,  on  the  edge  of  the  jdateau,  whence  a  channing  view  of  tho 
mountains  is  gahied,  while  the  placid  river  is  seen  gliding  between  its 
broad  an<l  fertile  intervales.  Below  the  park,  in  the  valley,  is  the  Ver- 
mont Asylum  for  the  Insane,  a  well-conducted  institution,  connected  with 
which  is  a  farm  of  GOO  acres,  which  is  carried  on  by  the  inmates  of  the 
Asylum.  From  various  points  (back  of  St.  Michael's  Church,  kc.)  on  the 
riverward  side  of  the  plateau,  pretty  views  of  the  river  and  Wantastiquet 
Mt.  are  obtained. 

Daniel  Webster  was  a  fre(iuent  visitor  to  Brattleboro',  and  at  jiresent  it  is  the 
home  of  Holbrook,  the  War-Liovernor  of  Vermont,  and  (Jen.  J.  W.  Phelps,  a  vet- 
eran of  the  Mexican  and  8eee.ssion  Wars,  who  first  enlisted  and  disciplined  ne- 
groes in  the  armies  of  the  Union.  Among  tho.se  born  here  were  Wilbur  Fisk. 
the  Methodist  divine,  who  twice  refused  a  bishopric,  and  was  I'ri-sident  of  Mid- 
dletown  University,  18;i0-:v.);  R.  M.  Hunt,  the  architect;  W.  M.  Hunt,  the 
painter  of  <jvnrc  pictures  ;  and  Larkin  G.  Mead,  the  sculptor,  who,  while  yet  a 
Uiere  lad,  worked  one  long  winter  night  on  a  snow-liguro  at  the  head  of  Main  St.  ; 
and  on  the  next  morning  (New  Year's)  the  citizens  were  startled  to  see  there  a 
statue  of  the  "Recording  Angel"  ni  Hlellod  in  i)ure.st  smnv.  From  that  time  hia 
success  has  Ixjen  of  rapid  growth,  and  now  for  several  years  he  has  lived  and 
worked  in  Itidy. 

In  W.  BrattlelM)ro'  ((Jlen  House,  Vermont  House)  is  the  Glenwood  Seminary,  in 
V  ivnantii'  site  (stages  three  times  daily). 

A  oridge  crosses  tlie  river  here,  and  a  road  runs  into  hilly  Hinsdale,  N.  of  which 
is  the  picturesque  town  of  Chesterfield  (N.  H.),  from  whose  level  uplands  much 
corn  aiid  hay  is  obtained  by  unwearied  labor.  Si)ofrord'3  Lake,  in  Chesterfield 
(10-12  M.  from  Brattleboro'),  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  8  M.  anmnd,  said  by 
Ilowells  to  i)ossess  natural  charms  equal  to  those  of  the  Italian  lakes.  On  an 
island  in  its  waters  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Indian  settlement. 


I 

I: 


I 
i 

I 


V 


I 


r 


111- 


N 


') ' 


104    RmiUlS. 


NORWICH  10  NASHUA. 


Brattleboro'  is  tho  centre  of  a  great  net-work  of  staKc-Iines.  Daily  stages  nin 
tnOuilfonl  (7-10  M.);  to  Xowfaiie  (12  M.),  the  county-se^it ;  to  Town.sheiKl  (17 
M.).  Tri-weckly  lines  run  to  l)over(17  M.)autlWar(IslH»ro'('Jt  M.)-  More(xt«'ii(lf(l 
routes  are  those  to  iShelbiime  FuUs  (Mass.)  via  Halifax  (cascades  on  North  Uivcr, 
and  Dnn's  Den,  2')  ft.  long,  f)  ft.  wide  and  high,  in  solid  rock)  in  27  M.  ;  to  Shel- 
bum  Falls  (45  M.)  via  Whitingham,  in  which  arc  the  Hadawga  Springs,  with  a 
hotel,  near  Kadawga  Lake,  in  whose  vicinity,  in  a  i)oor  log-luit,  the  hcresiarch 
Jlrighani  Yonng  was  born  in  I.SOI.  .Since  1S14  he  has  been  prophet  and  president 
of  the  Monnons,  who  moved  (1846-7),  un<ler  his  guidance,  from  Nanvoo  into  tiie 
■Western  wildeniess,  anJ  founded  the  Hourisldng  colony  of  Deserct  on  the  shores 
of  the  tireat  Salt  Lake  of  Ukib  ;  to  (irccnheld  {'.Vl  M.)  via  Halifax  ;  to  N.  Adams 
via  Whitingham  (45  M.)  ;  to  15enningt<m  via  Wilmington,  (4<i  M.),  jiassing  tlirough 
the  thinly  settled  mountain  towns  of  Marlboro,'  Wilmingtoii,  Searsburg,  and  Wooil- 
ford  ;  to  Bennington  via  Somerset  (50  M.) :  to  Arlington  via  Stnitton  (page  185) 
in  46  M. ;  to  Manchester  via  Jamaica  in  45  M.  Direct  connections  (in  time)  are 
not  made  on  all  these  lines. 

From  Brattleboro'  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad  runs  N.  to  Montreal,  Quebec, 
and  upper  Vermont  (Route  20). 

13.   Nor<vich  to  Nashna. 

Via  Norwich  and  Worcester,  and  Worcester  and  Nashua  Railroads.  Distance, 
106  M.,  fare,  $3.55. 

Norwich  to  Putnam,  see  Route  19.  Station,  Tlioinpson  (good  liotol),  a 
pretty  village  1  M.  from  the  station,  mucli  resorted  to  in  .summer,  and 
abounding  in  neat  villas.  Stations,  Grosvenordale,  N.  Grosvenordale, 
Wilsondale,  after  ■which  the  train  crosses  to  Webster,  in  Masp.  {Joslin 
House,  Sheldon  flotose).  In  this  vicinity  is  a  great,  islund-studded  pond, 
which  enjoys  two  names,  —  Cliabonakongkomon  and  Cliargoggagoggniun- 
choggagogg.  About  this  lake  were  the  Elysian  Fields  of  the  Nipmuck 
Indians  and  the  reputed  home  of  the  Great  Spirit.  A  small  community 
of  the  Nipmucks  still  remains  here,  supported  by  the  bounty  of  the  State. 
Both  at  Webster  and  N.  Webster  are  large  manufactories.  Station,  Ox- 
ford, a  pretty  village,  on  the  Indian  lands  called  Mancliarge.  2  M.  S.  E. 
of  the  station  is  Fort  Hill,  bearing  the  remains  of  a  bastioned  fort  built 
by  a  community  of  French  Huguenots  who  settled  here  in  1683.  13 
years  later,  an  Indian  irruption  so  alarmed  them  that  they  abandoned 
the  place,  and  lived  in  Boston  for  many  years.  Oxford  Centre  has  large 
shoe  manufactories,  and  several  cotton  and  woollen  mills  are  in  the  town. 
Station,  Auburn,  then  Worcester  Junction,  and  Worcester,  where  the 
passenger  for  Nashua  changes  cars. 

Connections  are  also  made  at  this  point  with  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  R. 
R.,  and  with  trains  for  Boston  and  Lowell.  Passengers  for  Springfield  and  Al- 
bany, or  Providence,  should  change  cars  at  Worcester  Junction. 


The  line  runs  N. 


Stations,  W.  Boylston,  Oakdale  (Oukdale  House), 
through 

"Rich  and  rural  Worcester,  where  throueh  the  calm  repose  

Of  cultured  vales  and  fringing  woods  the  gentle  Nashua  flowa." 

From  sterling  Jtmction  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  track  runs  oflf  to 
Fitchbui^(14M.). 


Daily  stngefl  nin 

n  Tiiwnsht'iid  (17 
).  McmMXtfiKlcil 
*  on  North  Uivcr, 
II  27  M.  ;  tr)  Shrl- 
X  Hi>rinx«,  with  a 
it,  the  hcrcsiurrh 
ln't  and  iiit'sitlt'iit 
I  Niuivoo  into  tlio 
ret  on  tho  shores 
lax  ;  to  N.  Atl.iins 
I,  jtassing  tlirouj^'h 
isl)urg,  and  Wood- 
nitton  (l>aj,'('  1X5) 
ons  (in  time)  are 

Montreal,  Quebec, 


roads.    Distance, 

ti  (good  hotel),  a 
in  suminer,  and 

Grosvenordale, 
in  Masr,  {Joslin 
d-studdcd  pond, 
irgoggagoggnuin- 
Df  the  Nipniuck 
mall  coninuuiity 
iy  of  the  State. 
Station,  Ox- 

ge.     2  M.  S.  E. 

ioned  fort  built 

re  in  1683.  13 
hey  abandoned 

Centre  has  large 

are  in  the  town. 

ster,  where  the 


nd  Fitchburg  R. 
)ringfield  and  Al- 


e  line  runs  N. 

J  -       -  - 

flows." 
ack  runs  off  to 


i 


NORWICH  TO  NASHUA. 


Jioiitc  11.    105 


After  passing  the  Waushaccuni  Ponds  on  the  1.  an<l  the  Tlinton  Ponds 
on  each  side  of  the  track,  the  busy  manufacturing  town  of  Clinton  (Clin- 
ton House)  is  reached,  where  the  line  is  crossed  by  the  Boston,  Clinton, 
and  Fitchburg  R.  R.  Stations,  S.  Lancaster,  and  Lancaster  (Lancaster 
House),  an  old  and  pleasant  village,  near  whicli  is  the  State  Industrial 
School  for  Girls.  The  village  was  attacked  in  1076,  by  5  bodies  of  In- 
dians. 42  of  the  people  took  shelter  in  Rev.  Mr.  Rowlandson's  house, 
wliich  was  set  on  fire  after  a  two  houra'  siege,  and  22  of  its  defenders 
were  killed,  the  other  20  being  nia<lo  prisoners.  Stations,  Still  River,  and 
Harvard  {Ilan'ard  Hotel),  a  picturescpie  highland  village,  near  a  lake 
which  is  3  M.  around,  and  N.  of  which  are  the  deep  and  se<iuestered  Hell 
Pond  and  Robbhis  Pond.  A  considerable  Shaker  community  is  settled 
ia  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  town.  Harvard  Centre  is  2  M.  E.  from  the  sta- 
tion (stages  run  freriuently). 

Groton  Junction  (see  Route  2.')).  Tlie  next  statloii  is  Groton  Centre, 
a  pretty  village  in  a  country  of  hills  and  lakes.  It  was  attacked  hi  1676, 
by  the  Sachem  Monoco  at  the  head  of  400  Indians,  and  40  houses  and  the 
church  wero  burnt,  though  the  people  repulsed  all  attacks  from  their  ref- 
uge in  4  garrison-houses.  This  same  sachem  boasted  to  the  V-esieged  that 
he  was  marching  on  Concord  and  Boston,  to  destroy  those  to)vns.  With- 
in a  year  he  was  indeed  in  Boston,  but  as  a  captive,  led  through  the 
streets  with  a  rope  around  his  neck,  and  afterwards  hung  on  the  Com- 
mon. Hon.  G.  S.  Boutwell,  Gov.  of  Mass.,  1851-3,  and  Sei^retary  of 
the  U.  S.  Treasury,  1869-73,  Avas  for  many  years  a  mercliaut  in  this 
town.     Groton  is  the  seat  of  Lawrence  Academy. 

Stati>^n,  Pejiperell  {Prescott  House  ;  the  village  is  across  the  N'a.shua 
River,  W.  of  the  station),  a  town  named  after  Sir  Wm.  Peppen  il,  tho 
first  New  England  baronet,  by  its  first  pastor,  who  was  a  chaplain  in  his 
Louisburg  expedition.  S.  W.  of  the  village  is  the  curious  hill  called 
"  The  Throne,"  while  to  the  N.  are  the  picturesque  Hills  of  Missitisset. 
This  is  a  quiet  village  with  an  old  cliurch,  wliose  bell,  according  x.o  an  old 
New  England  custom,  tolls  out  the  number  of  the  letters  in  the  name, 
and  of  years  in  the  age,  of  each  villager  when  he  or  she  dies. 

In  the  graveyard  near  by  is  a  pretty  marble  monument  from  Itily.  Otherwise 
tlie  cemetery  illustrates  Boocher's  words  concernin'^  the  New  England  theory, 
"  The  dead  are  utterly  pone.  God  has  tliem  in  anotlic  world.  Their  state  is  lixed 
and  unalterable.  iSo  tliinking,  it  seems  of  but  little  worth  to  garnish  their  sleep- 
ing-places." Tlie  old  Prescott  mansion  is  on  a  broail  domain  2.^  M.  from  the  vil- 
lage. This  was  founded  by  Col.  Wm.  Prescott,  who  led  the  Middlesex  minute- 
men  to  Cambridge,  and  commanded  the  Americans  at  the  battle  (jf  Bunker  Hill, 
where  the  Pei)percll  Co.  lost  IG  men.  He  left  the  redoubt  within  push  of  bay- 
onet of  the  British,  warding  ofl'  their  thrusts  by  his  flashing  sword.  His  son. 
Judge  Wm.,  succeeded  to  the  estate,  and  from  him  it  was  inherited  by  his  sou, 
Wm.  Hickling  Prescott,  who  here  wrote  a  greivt  part  of  his  noble  historical  works. 
His  son  now  owns  the  estate. 

Soon  after  leaving  Pepperell  the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  Hamp- 


106    lloutc  l/f.        SAYBROOK  TO  HAKTFOIID. 

shire.  Station,  TloUis,  3  M.  S.  E.  of  the  village  of  that  name  (stages 
to  all  trains)  wjiicli  gave  250  num  to  the  Continental  Armies.  Soon  after 
the  train  enters  the  city  of  Nashua  (see  Route  20). 


I 


14.  Saybrook  to  Hartford. 

Via  Connrctirut  Vallpy  H.  K  in  U  M.  Fare,  $1.50.  This  route  follows  the 
W.  bank  ol'  tlic  Conn.  HiviT,  ami  a  scat  on  tlio  r.  side  of  the  car  aHonls  iik'.i.sinj; 
vi('w.s  of  tlu!  river  an<l  tiie  villages  on  its  .shores. 

For  Sayhrook  Point  see  Route  8.  After  leaving  Saybrook  ami  cro.ssing 
the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  (Route  8),  at  the  Junction,  the  lino  nins  N.  W. 
through  the  old  limits  of  Saybrook,  with  the  river  clo.se  at  hand.  The 
•soil  of  this  town  is  enriched  by  piling  thereon  great  ({uantities  of  whito- 
lish,  which  are  caught  off  its  shores,  and  sold  for  a  trilling  sum  per  thou- 
s.md.  Stations,  Essc.v,  Deej)  River,  S.  Chester,  Chester  (ricli  farming 
country,  with  an  Episcoi)al  academy  dating  from  17'.<2),  Gooilspeed's  (vil- 
lage across  the  river),  Arnold's  (near  Avhich  the  village  of  E.  Iladdam  is 
seen  on  the  E.  baidc),  and  JIaddam.  Near  Arnold's,  the  mouth  of  Sal- 
mon River  is  seen  on  the  E.  baidi,  and  30  Mile,  or  Lord's  Island  divides 
the  Connecticut  some  distance  above.  The  ancient  territory  of  the 
"fierce  and  warlike  "  Woiigung  Indians  em'oraced  Iladdam  and  E.  Had- 
<lam.  They  parted  with  tlieir  birthright  for  30  coats,  and  the  land  wa.s 
settled  by  people  from  Hartford.  Quarries  of  some  importance  have  been 
worked  here,  and  the  annual  catch  of  shad  is  considerable.  Stations, 
Walkley  Hill,  Higganiim  (a  thriving  river-landing  and  ferry),  Maromas, 
and  Middletown. 

Middletowii  C  McDonouyh  Uouse,  1.50  guests),  "  the  Forest  City,"  is  a 
beautiful  acadendc  city,  l»uilt  on  ground  gently  rising  from  the  river  at 
the  bottom  of  a  great  bend.  Its  maritime  interests  are  along  the  wharves 
which  run  out  from  Water  St. ;  the  scat  of  trade  and  of  the  hotels  is  on 
Main  St. ;  while  High  St.  is  above  all,  and  is  lined  with  fine  houses  and 
carefully  kept  gardens.  The  Custom  House  and  Court  House  (of  Middh'- 
sex  Co. )  are  i)lain  stone  buildings,  and  there  are  several  handsome  churches 
in  the  city.  The  manufactures  include  pumps,  webl  ling,  and  tape  {%  600,0(»f  I 
a  year),  rules  and  chisels,  sewing-machines,  and  several  companies  ma]:e 
britannia  and  silver-plated  ware.  The  safe  and  convenient  harbor  (10  it. 
of  water  at  the  wharves)  renders  this  the  last  port  on  the  river  for  heavy 
vessels. 

The  campus  of  Wesleyan  University  fronts  on  High  St.  (which,  with 
its  double  lines  of  stately  trees,  Charles  Dickens  called  the  finest  rural 
street  he  had  ever  seen).  The  University  appertains  to  the  Methodist 
sect,  and  sustains  a  high  reputation.  In  the  work  of  the  intellectual  up- 
lifting of  the  Methodist  clergy  it  has  borne  a  prominent  part.  Besides 
the  old  buildings  in  the  usual  Novanglian  style,  there  are  three  fine  new 


SAYBIIOOK  TO  IIAUTFURD.        Rouk  Ij.     107 


name  (stagos 
,      Soon  alter 


onto.  foUoWR  the 
all'ords  i>l(as>nK 

ok  and  crossing 
110  runs  N.  W. 
eat  hand.     The 
itities  of  whito- 
^  sum  per  thovi- 
r  (rich   fiirming 
C.Jootlspeed's  (vil- 
>f  E.  Haddum  is 
e  mouth  of  Sal- 
lVs  Island  divides 

territory  of  the 
lam  and  E.  Ha<l- 
au.l  the  land  was 
inrtance  have  been 
erable.     Stations, 

ferry),  M aromas, 

Forest  ('ity,"  is  a 

;  from  the  river  at 

along  the  wharves 

,f  the  hotels  is  on 

h  fine  houses  and 

House  (of  Middl.'- 

Iiandsome  churches 

and  tape  ($600,(H>ii 

.1  companies  mahe 

lient  harbor  (10  ft. 

he  river  for  heavy 

,gh  St.  (^^hich,  with 
fed  the  finest  rural 
[s  to  the  Methodist 
Ithe  intellectual  up- 
Jient  part.  Besides 
are  three  fine  new 


edifices  of  Portland  Handslone.  Rich  Hall  contains  tlio  library  of  ultout 
20,00(1  vohinics.  Jutl'l  Hall  (tlie  <.^ift  of  Oraii^j^c  .Tiidd,  the  a,','ri(uliuralist ) 
is  a  lincly  finished  liuildinfj:,  containing  admirable  natural-history  collec- 
tions. Some  of  these  cabinets  are  unexcelled  in  America,  having  been 
c<  Uected  a; id  arra?.ged  by  scientists  who  have  spent  years  in  special 
8tudics.  Casts  of  skeletons  and  parts  of  colossal  animals  whoso  species 
have  long  been  extinct  are  arranp'd  here.  Tho  Memorial  ("hapel  is  a 
fine  work  f)f  ardiiteetur.'.  Its  lower  room  is  u;;e(l  for  daily  collegts 
Iirayers,  while  al)ovc  is  the  churcli  proper,  with  memorial  windows  which 
cost  $  700  each. 

That  on  tlic  left  is  in  honor  of  tlio  past,  stinlcnts  wlio  dictl  as  soMiors  of  tho 
ITiii'iii,  ami  hears  tlie  iiiscriiitidiis,  "  Tlio  lieauty  of  Isra«l  is  Klaiii  ui>i>ii  lier  lii;;h 

Iilaccs  "  ;  "It  is  sweet  and  liltini,'  to  dio  for  one's  fatlierliiid,"  in  llie  liiitin  of 
Inraee  ;  " Thci  earth  is  a  grave  of  lieroes,"  in  tin- (ireek  of  Homer.  Under  the 
Hvuiholic  llicnrt)  of  a  ludiean  are  tiie  names  of  tli(!  slain.  Tiie  Wesh-yan  (Inard 
((>i.  <i.,  '1th  L'onn.  Uej;.)  went  fnmi  the  University,  On  the  r.  opj)osite  is  a  win- 
dow bearing;  jtortraits  of  lour  presith-nts  of  tht;  University:  Will)nr  Fisl<,  I).  D. 
(18.10-^9);  Htephen  olin,  D.  D.,  author  of  "Travels  in  thi-  Kast."&e.  (IHl^-.M); 
Nathan  l)an;,'s,  I).  1).,  an  itinerant  minister,  l.S()l-20,  aj^'ent  and  editor  of  tiio 
Hook  (,'onecrn,  18'J0-n(i,  an<l  afterwards  President  of  the  Uidversity  ;  and  .\.  W. 
8niith,  UIj.  1).,  a  jiromiiient  mathematician.  In  is71,  the  Uidversity  had  10  in- 
htnietors  and  l.'^:!  students. 

Tlic  *  view  from  the  tower  of  the  ohl  chapel  is  delightful,  embracing 
the  bay-like  river  and  its  rii)arian  hills,  the  city  l)elow,  and  the  busy  (piar- 
rics  at  Portland,  the  long  and  imposing  buildings  of  t'le  Insane  Asylum 
en  a  hill  in  tlie  S.,  tlie  Industrial  SeliO(d,  and  the  rolliig  lulls  to  the  W. 
On  this  hill  was  the  far-viewing  fortress  of  Mattabesick,  the  aboriginal 
chief  bowheag,  and  around  its  base  the  Massachusetts  immigrants  settled 
in  1G53.  Prissot  de  Warville,  a  French  tourist  (in  178S),  asserted  that 
"  from  the  hill  over  Middletown  is  one  of  the  finest  and  richest  prospect.s 
in  America."  Thu  villas  and  gardens  of  Iligli  St.  extend  on  each  side  of 
the  campu.s,  and  not  far  from  it  is  the  Indian  Hill  Cemetery,  with  a  hand- 
some sepidchral  chapel  at  the  entrance,  and  fine  views  from  its  hills  over 
leagues  of  farm-studded  valleys.  Here  is  buried  Gen.  J.  K.  F.  Mans- 
field, Avho  stormed  Monterey,  was  higldy  distinguished  at  Buena  Vista, 
fortified  Wa.shington  City  (18GI ),  and  w^as  mortally  wounded  while  leading 
Jus  corps  at  Antietam.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  Industrial  School  for  Girls, 
a  Uiudel  institution  with  fine  buiklings  surrounded  by  broad  lands,  wher;i 
the  inmates  arc  given  three  hours  daily  for  study,  and  do  their  own  work. 

On  a  high  hill  \\  Isl.  S.  E.  of  the  city  are  the  vast  and  imposing  build- 
fogs  of  the  State  General  Hospital  for  the  Insane.  The  nuiin  building 
1^  of  Portland  stone,  and  has  a  length  of  7GS  ft.  with  acconmiodations  for 
4o0  patients.  It  stands  on  spacious  grounds  which  cover  230  acres  of  the 
bill,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  widenings  of  the  river. 

,  Farther  down  the  river  are  points  often  visited  by  geologists.  Fehlspar  is 
frund  lierc  in  sueli  quantities  as  to  make  it  an  item  of  trade,  as  it  is  used  in  niak- 
fr.g  porcelain.  The  lead  mines  so  actively  worked  during  the  Revolution  have 
Ion''  been  abandoiicd. 


108    llontclB.     NEW  HAVEN  TO  NORTIIAMI'TON. 


On  Main  St.  ncor  thn  McDonongli  Honso  is  the  Berkeley  Divinity 
Sohool,  iin  Episcopfil  institution  under  tln^  prcsidcMicy  of  I5ishn|»  WilliaiiiM. 
It  was  founded  in  lS;"i7,  lias  graduatj^d  122  nuui,  and  had,  in  lh71,  12  jno- 
fesriors  and  24  studi'iits.  The  cliaiicl  (of  St.  Luke)  is  a  small  but  bcauti- 
fid  Gothic  structure,  built  of  stone  and  having?  very  rich  stained  windows. 
The  students  attenil  Ntrvice  in  robes,  and  their  singing  is  fine.  Near  by 
and  on  Main  St.  is  the  elegant  church  of  the  Holy  Cross  (Kj)ificoi)al)  b\iilt 
of  Portland  stone,  with  a  graceful  tinibi-r  roof.  The  N.  and  S.  (Congrega- 
tional churches  are  fine  buildings,  and  Main  St.  has  three  banks,  huilt  iu 
the  style  of  bank-architecture  jjcculiar  to  New  England,  —  with  one  high, 
solid  story,  of  stone  or  brick.  The  quaint  little  I'arthenon  which  is  usimI 
for  a  Court  House  is  on  the  same  street. 

Near  the  N.  end  of  Main  St.  (with  its  larKc  Roman  Catholic  church)  is  tliP  pier  of 
the  I'ortlaml  ferry.  Tlie  (luanies  of  red  sainlstmii'  at  I'lutlaiiil  are  of  continental 
fame,  and  are  situated  m  .ir  tiie  jiicr  at  tlie  (itlier  cmi  of  tlie  ferry,  wiienet!  also  in 
gained  a  line  view  of  Middlctown  and  the  ^nicefid  Air  Line  IJailmad  Ijrid^e.  Tho 
llrst  quarry  approachidjs  the  deepest,  and  from  tlie  sharp  eij^i!  of  the  liill  one  can 
look  down  into  a  va.st  cliasin  from  whicli  lias  licen  taken  the  material  for  hnn- 
dreds  of  fine  l)uildinf,'s,  and  forfroids  of  lon^  Mocks  in  nearly  every  Atlantic  (  ity. 
The  second  (piarry  is  the  largest  and  oldest;  and  beyond  this  is  a  third.  Th'so 
works  emjiloy  KOO  men,  great  nnnd»ers  of  draught-animals,  and  40  vessels.  Tho 
stone  is  easy  to  work,  of  a  durable  <  haracter,  and  <if  a  rich  shade  of  brown. 

The  New  U;iveu,  -Middletown,  and  Willimantii'  11.  U.,  runs  from  the  former 
city  t<»  Middletown,  and  here  <  rosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a  tine  iron  briili;e 


When  the  link  between  Middletown  and  Willimaidic  is  complete(|,  the  Air  Lino 
from  Roston  to  New  York  wil 
Mid<lletown,  i.':5i  M.,  fare,  S.'Jc, 


inlet 
from  Roston  to  New  York  will  nui  on  the  rails  of  this  line.     From  New  Haven  to 

at  Berlin,  and 


I  , 


A  l)ran(di  track  leaves  the  New  Haven  and  Springfield  Railr< 
runs  10  M.  S.  K.  to  Middletown. 

The  steamers  between  Hartford  and  New  York  stop  at  this  ijenerally  Into 

in  the  afternoon,  and  then  proceed  down  tho  river,  from  whuoc  mouth  Middle- 
town  i.s  .'51  M.  distant. 

After  leaving  Middletown  the  Conn.  Valley  Railroad  runs  N.  about  15 
M.  passing  through  the  towns  of  Cromwell,  Rocky  Hill,  aud  Wetliersfield, 
and  enters  the  city  of  Hartford. 


r.:?' 


!lM  t 


>  t 


15.  New  Haven  to  Northampton. 

Via  N.  H.  and  N.  R.  R.,  in  84  M. 

This  line  is  often  called  the  Canal  R.  R.,  since  it  follows  the  lino  of  the  old 
Farmingt{»n  Canal  for  a  considerable  distance.  It  runs  through  a  quiet  agricul- 
tural country,  an<l  terminates  near  the  W.  ceJitre  of  Massachusetts,  on  the  line 
of  the  (projected)  Mass.  Central  R.  R.  Shortly  after  its  completion  in  1841)  it  was 
leased  by  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  R.  R.  for  20  years,  and  on  the  expiration 
of  that  time  it  reverted  to  the  original  proprietors. 

The  line  passes  West  Rock  soon  after  leaving  New  Haven,  and  enters 
the  valley  of  Mill  River,  which  it  follows  for  nearly  20  M.  Tlie  town  of 
Haniden,  which  is  soon  entered,  is  in  a  valley  between  the  W.  Rock  Mts. 
and  the  E.  Rock  Mts.,  two  ranges  which  run  N.  nearly  i)arallel  until  they 
unite  in  Southington,  and  then  advance  into  Massachusetts.  Mt.  Camiel 
(near  the  station  of  the  same  name)  is  a  lofty  spur  from  the  E.  Rock 


I 


NT. 

keley  Divinity 

Jishop  Williams, 
in  lh71,  12iMo- 
inall  but  lu'imti- 
stainctl  windows. 
I  fine.     Ni-ar  by 
(FijUficnpal)  built 
jiiul  S.  (/ongren.v 
0  bfxuka,  built  in 
—  with  onehigli, 
ion  which  is  uswl 


inrrli)  is  th«"  i>i«'r  of 
I  iirc  of  coiitini'titiil 
iiy,  whence,  also  i^* 
iil'i(.a<l  bridge.    Tim 
t'  of  tilt!  liill  one  v.m 
3  iimtt^iiiil  for  Iniii- 
pvery  Atlantic  i  ity. 
^  is  II  tliiiil.     Tlvsti 
1(1    40  vessels.     Tlirt 
iule  of  1)in\vn. 
IS   from  the   former 
m  a  tine  iron  l)ri<ip'. 
ph'ted.  the  Air  Lino 
From  New  Haven  to 

In     '  at  Berlin,  and 

r;enorally  Into 
u.oi;  mouth  Middle- 
runs  N.  about  15 
and  WetliersfielJ, 


on. 

.  the  lino  of  the  old 
mgh  a  quiet  agricul- 
husetts,  on  the  Une 
pletionin  1849  it  was 
lud  on  the  expiration 

Haven,  and  enters 
I\I.     Tlie  town  of 

1  the  W.  Kock  Mts. 
parallel  until  they 

isetts.  Mt.  Carmel 
from  the  E.  Hock 


NEW  HAVKN  TO  NOllTllAMl'TON.     lloutc  15.     lOD 

Il:inj;i*,  mid  iH  composed  of  j^Teejistont'.  llaindcu  is  aquift  country  towtj, 
on  fertile  lands.  The  stations,  Cheshire  and  Hitchcock's,  arc  in  the  town 
»»f  ('hcsldre,  a  picturcstpu'  fainiing  district,  in  one  of  wliose  villaj^es  is 
.situatcil  tilt!  Ei)iscoj)al  Academy  of  Conn,  (military),  %*nich  dates  from 
l.'IOl.  I'lantsvillc!  and  Sonthington  are  in  a  town  by  the  latter  name, 
formerly  noted  for  t'.\tensivt)  tin-ware  manufactories,  but'now  depeiidiuj* 
on  iron-works.  Station,  I'lainville,  with  the  Farmington  Canal  on  the 
r.  and  the  Mine  Hills  on  tlie  I.  At  this  point  the  llartford.  Providence, 
and  Kishkill  Uailroatl  crosses  the  jn-esent  route.  Station,  Farmington. 
The  village  is  seen  about  \  M.  away  in  a  beautiful  situation  near  the 
broad,  rich  mea<low»  of  the  Farmington  River.  A  broad  and  shaded 
street  2  M.  long  composes  the  village.  This  fair  and  fertile  valley  wiu* 
the  Tunxis  of  th(!  Indians,  who  dwelt  here  in  great  numberM.  Many  of 
their  cemeteries  and  tisliing-phuH'S  luive  been  found.  The  land  wjis 
bought  from  tluon  by  immigrants  from  lioston  and  Koxbury,  who  settled 
here  in  10  K».  It  was  the  pastor  of  this  village  who  i)reached  to  the  troops 
marching  to  Boston  in  1775,  from  the  te.xt,  "Play  the  man  for  your 
country,  and  for  the  cities  of  your  God ;  and  the  Lord  do  that  which 
si'cmeth  him  good." 

From  Farmington  a  branch  track  runs  to  New  llartford  (14  M.),  hy  thn  stations 
I'nioMville,  Uuiliiii^ton,  Collinsville,  and  I'inc  Meadow.  At  Col'lnsville  (I'alley 
IIdii^c,  good)  tlwi  Faniiin},'ti'ii  Uiv<!r  Is  ilannned,  and  affords  a  great  power  which 
is  iiseil  \)y  extensive  works  for  the  n\aimf;i'  ue  of  axes  and  edged  tools.  Tho 
liMsincss  was  founded  liy  Mr.  Collins,  ami  low  employs  0-7')0  men,  who,  with 
their  families,  make  uji  a  jxipulous  villa.;i  .  l.'i,0()0  stetd  ph)Ughs  are  sent  out 
> early  to  all  i>arts  of  the  W(irld,  and  20(),00(»  Brazilian  hoes  have  been  made  here 
ill  I'lie  year.  Vast  numbers  of  Mexican  nia(!hetes  uru  turned  out,  ami  more  axes 
tli:ni  at  any  other  factory  in  Amcriea.  Here,  also,  were  made  the  pikes  for  John 
Brown's  raid  on  Viri,'inia. 

At  Collinsville  the  Conn.  Western  R.  U.  forms  a  junction  with  the  branch. 

Beyond  Farmington  is  Avon,  a  pretty  village,  where  Silliman  found 
"  renmants  of  primeval  New  England  customs."  On  the  E.,  Talcott  Mt. 
is  plainly  seen,  with  a  lofty  tower  on  its  top.     (See  Environs  of  Hartford.) 

Stations,  Weatogue  and  Simsbury,  in  the  town  of  Simsbury,  which  was 
settled  in  1G70  on  tho  Indian  lands  of  Massacoe.  During  King  lM»ilii)'s 
War  the  colonists  buried  their  goods  and  fled,  but  the  town  was  destroyed 
l)y  the  Indians  and  left  so  long  neglected  that  the  wilderness  reclaimed  it, 
^nd  the  returning  settlers  never  found  their  buried  treasures.  On  a  hill 
W.  of  the  track  is  the  principal  village,  ambushed  in  trees.  Just  before 
reacliing  Granby,  the  next  station,  the  Farmington  River,  which  has 
followed  the  track  for  15  M.,  turns  sharply  to  the  S.  E.  through  a  ]>ass 
in  the  mountain,  and  flows  down  into  the  C!onnecticut.  Station,  Granby 
(three  small  hotels  in  the  town),  in  a  rugged  farming  town.  Here  was 
•located  Newgate  Prison  (State  of  Conn. ), —  a  grim  i)ile  on  tlie  top  of  Co])per 
Hill,  wliere  the  prisoners  were  confined  in  the  cavernous  shafts  and  pas- 
•ngijs  of  a  copper-niine,  —  abandoned  in  1700.     Some  of  the  convicts  lived 


■SB 


mm 


} 


110    Jiontelo.     NEW  HAVEN  TO  NORTHAMPTON. 


111.',    i 


I 


I  i 


60  ft.  bolow  the  eartli's  surface,  amid  unceasing  darkness.  Tlie  moiith  cf 
the  niaiti  shaft  was  covered  by  a  massive  stone  building,  and  the  prisoners 
Avnre  guarded  bj-  20  soldiers.  This  subterranean  laT>yrinth  served  for  a 
State  Prison  iVoni  1775  to  1827.  The  State  says  that  the  average  mor- 
tality during  that  period  was  less  than  that  in  tiie  other  American  prisons, 
but  harsh  stories  went  abroad  about  the  gloomy  cavenis  of  Newgate. 

Soon  after  leaving  Granby  the  line  enters  Massachusetts,  and  runs  along 
the  pond  of  Congamuck,  stopi)ing  at  Southwick  (Union  Hotel).  Then 
the  train  descends  on  to  the  jilains  of  Westfield,  and,  i)assing  through  the 
village  (see  Route  22),  crosses  Westfield  River,  and  stops  at  the  station  at 
the  junction  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad  (Route  22).  Soon  after 
leaving  Westfield  the  train  passes  iiito  the  valley  of  the  Manham  River, 
and  stops  at  Southampton,  under  the  shadow  of  high  hills.  After  leaving 
the  latter  place,  the  long  ridge  of  Mt.  Tom  looms  upon  the  r.,  while 
Pomeroy's  Mt.  is  farther  away  on  the  1.  Easthampton  is  now  reaciied 
(EyrU',  House,  Mansion  House).  This  is  the  seat  of  Williston  Seminary, 
a  high  graded  institution  attended  by  180-200  students.  This  seminary 
has  been  endowed  with  $  250,000  by  Hon.  Sam.uel  Williston,  who  has  also 
given  3 1^5,000  to  Amherst  College,  large  sums  to  Mt.  Holyoke  Seminary, 
and  has  3  times  rebuilt  the  Payson  Church  in  Easthampton.  He  began 
business  by  making  buttons  at  home  with  his  wife's  aid,  after  which  he 
perfected  machinery,  and  erected  a  factory.  His  income  in  1864  was 
$  200,000. 

Vulcanized  rubber  and  rul)ber  thread,  cotton  yarn,  susjienders,  buttons 
(1200  gross  per  day),  and  other  goods  are  made  here. 

From  Easthampton,  Mt.  Holyoke  is  full  in  sight  to  the  E.  After  pass- 
ing near  the  great  bend  of  the  Connecticut  River,  the  train  enters  North- 
ampton (Route  24). 

Station,  Florence,  wliere  are  the  extensive  manufactories  of  the  Flor- 
ence Sewing-Machine  Comjiany.  The  works  surround  a  quadrangle,  and 
20-22,000  machines  are  turned  out  every  year.  Stations,  Leeds  (witli 
large  sewing-silk  factories),  Haydeuville  (brass-works),  and  Williamsburg 
{Havipshire  House),  a  pretty  village  among  the  hills,  and  at  present  the 
terminus  of  the  line. 

Cumminf]tton  is  a  lofty  mountain-town,  12-14  M.  W.  of  Williamsburg.  Here 
was  bcni,  in  ISIO,  II.  Jj.  Dawes,  who  was  for  some  tiiue  a  lawyer  and  journalist, 
ami  who  lius  been  one  of  the  most  usi'ful  members  of  Congress  sinee  his  election 
ill  IS')". 

William  Culleii  Bryant,  born  at  Cununington  in  1704,  is  one  of  the  lead- 
ing intets  of  America,  llih  verses  were  iiubnshe<l  before  he  was  tun  years  old, 
and  the  grandly  solemn  i)oem  of  "'rhauatopsis  "  was  written  while  he  Avas  in  his 
18th  year.  For  most  of  tlie  time  from  1815  to  1825  'le  was  a  lawyer  in  W.  Ma^s.  ; 
but  in  1820  lie  eoiiiieeted  himself  with  tlie  "New  Vo'k  Evening  Post,"  with  which 
lie  still  remains.  lie  has  mad(!  several  toius  in  Ihirojie,  and  since  1845  has  lived 
in  an  ohl  mansion  at  Roslyn.  \j.  I.  li«'sides  several  volume.^  of  i)rose  and  ])oetry 
of  great  sweetness  and  grandeur,  he  has  jiublislied  the  best  traiislitioii  extant  of 
the  Iliad  and  the  Oi'.y.'. ey  of  iltimcr. 


M  \ 


BRIDGEPORT  TO  VVINSTED.        jioute  10.     Ill 


16.  Bridgeport  to  Winsted. 

Via  Naugatuck  R.  R.  iu  62  M.     Fare,  $  l.So. 

4  M.  from  Bridgepoii  the  train  crosses  the  l)roa(l  Housatonic  River. 
At  Naugatuck  Junr'tion  tlio  rails  of  the  Shore  Line  Raihoad  are  left,  and 
the  line  tunis  to  the  N.  E.  and  foll<>ws  the  Housatonic  as  far  as  Derby. 
The  village  of  Birmingham  (Basset  House)  is  picturesquely  located  on  a 
high  headland  at  the  junction  of  the  Housatonic  and  Naugatuck  Rivers, 
Commerce  was  formerly  carried  on  on  a  large  scale  from  this  point,  its 
vessels  rumiing  to  the  West  Indies,  but  manufactures  have  now  taken 
possession  of  Derby,  Great  numbers  of  pins,  tacks,  l)rads,  corsets,  crin- 
oline, stockings,  and  melodeons  (Sterling's)  are  made  lu-re.  The  great 
Housatonic  Dam  is  aljout  ^  jM,  from  the  village  and  affonls  an  immense 
water-i)ower.  It  cost  3^00,000,  and  was  three  years  in  building,  being 
constructed  of  solid  masonry  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  with  the  convex  sur- 
face turned  toward  the  pi'essure  of  the  stream.  The  dam  is  GOO  ft.  long, 
and  has  23  ft.  fall,  and  the  heavy  roaring  of  the  plunging  waters  can  be 
heard  miles  away  at  night. 

Gen.  Duviil  Iluniphreys  was  born  at  Derby  iu  17'i2.  lie  was  Waslilngton's  aide, 
and  long  resided  at  Mount  Vernon,  after  which  he  was  minister  to  Purtuyal  and 
iSpaiii,  au<l  eoniinander  of  the  Conn,  militia. 

Isaac  Hull  was  born  here  in  1775.  He  entered  the  navy,  and  in  1800  captured 
Port  Platte,  in  Hayti.  He  distinguished  himself  in  the  TripolitJUi  War,  and  iu 
18)  J,  commanding  the  "Constitution,"  he  escaped  froiU  a  British  scpiadrou  in  h(jt 
pursuit,  by  wari)iii;^'  his  ship  aliead  during  a  calm.  A  month  later  hu  met  the 
British  frigate  "Guorriere,"  and  eaptur-jil  her  after  a  short,  Hharj)  ai'tiou.  (Jen. 
Will.  Hull,  born  hero,  1753,  was  condoumed  to  dcaiii  in  isi'i,  for  smrendering  the 
Army  of  tlie  Northwest,  at  Detroit,  but  President  Matli.son  pardoned  him. 

An  omnibus  runs  fnjm  ilirmingham  to  its  sister-village  of  Ansonia,  i)assiug 
along  breezy  heights  which  alford  line  views  of  the  Naugatuck  Valley  and  the 
nival  homes  of  Derby  scattered  on  the  Trans-Naugatu(;k  hills.  In  the  N.  i-tid  of 
Biriiiingliam  a  small  Green  is  passed,  with  ;  Saxon-tow«'red  ^]pi.scopal  Church, 
and  ni>ar  it  are  churches  of  tlie  Methodists,  Congri'gationalists,  and  Catholics. 

A  Railroad  runs  from  .iVnsonia  to  New  Haven  direct. 

A)i.sonia  (Ansonia  House),  the  next  station  beyond  Derby,  is  a  thriving 
borough  near  the  falls  in  the  Naugatuck.  It  was  foundcil  in  1838,  and 
has  become  the  seat  of  numerous  rolling-mills  and  foundries,  a  large 
hoop-skirt  factory,  and  manufactories  of  clocks,  lightning-rods,  and  brass 
wares.  Some  fine  mansions  are  linilt  on  the  heights  over  the  liver,  and 
from  near  the  tall  stone  churcli  is  gained  a  neat  valley-view,  embracing  a 
great  part  of  the  old  Indian  domain  of  Paugussett. 

At  Seymour,   the  next  station,  is  a  small  village  founded  by  Gen. 
Humphrey  in  ISIO,  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  pa])er,  and  woollen 
goods.     For  the  latter  purpose  he  had  imported  large  Hocks  of  Spanish 
I  merino  sheep. 

I      tSeucou  i'alls  has  a  water-power  which  is  used  by  factories  making  a 
I  LTeat  numbor  of  woollen  sliawls.      Station,   Naugatuck,  whicli   is  the 


*;♦_  ; 


1 


112    Route  IG.        BRIDGEPOUT  TO  WINSTED. 


;M 


.,  1  » 


•  t 


%\       ^■'' 


\\ 


^lil 


lif  fi 


seat  of  the  Goodyear  Glove  (and  UubLer)  Co.,  a  Pin  Co.,  and  of  Tuttle's 
Works,  which  turn  out  400,000  rakes  and  hoes  each  year.  Naugatuck  is 
derived  from  the  Indian  plirase,  Nau-ko-tunk,  meaning  "one  large  tree," 
from  a  lofty  and  prominent  tree  which  once  stood  on  the  Rock  Rimmon, 
near  the  Falls  Static  i.    Union  City,  and  Waterbury  (see  Roiite  11). 

Junction  is  formei.  iiere  with  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  Railroad, 
and  also  with  the  Watfrtown  Branch.  Watertown  {Worrcn  House),  ahout  0  M. 
distant,  is  a  quiet  village  in  a  thinly  settled  and  hilly  farming  town. 

Stations,  Waterville  (where  pen-knives  are  manufactured),  Pl^Tnouth, 
(near  which  are  fine  quarries  of  white  granite),  Camp's  Mills,  and  Litch- 
field. The  l)eautiful  village  of  Litchfield  {Mansion  House,  U.  S.  House) 
is  about  4  M.  from  the  station  (stages  connect  with  trains).  This  is  the 
county  seat  of  Litchfield  County,  and  once  claimed  jurisdiction  to  the 
Mississippi  River. 

The,  Royal  Charter  of  Conncc^ticut  in  1C04  defined  that  eolony  as  "all  that  part 
of  His  Majesty's  dominions,  in  New  England,  in  America,  Ixmnded  the  E.  by 
Narragansett  Bay,  ...  on  the  N.  by  the  line  of  the  Massachusetts  Plantiitiou, 
and  (in  the  S.  by  the  sea.  And  in  longitude  .  .  .  from  said  Narragansett  Bay  on 
E.  to  th(!  South  Sea  on  tlui  W.  part,  with  the  islands  thereunto  belonging."  Sub- 
secjuently  royal  grants"  detached  from  this  vast  belt  parts  of  New  York  and 
Pennsylvania,  altliough  nnuh  of  the  tract  in  the  latter  State  (including  tlie  Valley 
of  Wyoming),  was  settled  from  Ooini.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolution  the  State 
ceded  this,  her  western  domain,  to  the  Union,  reserving  a  tract  on  the  S.  of  Lake 
Erie,  as  wide  as  Conn,  and  120  ^I.  long,  and  (•oini)rising  4,000,000  acres.  Of  thig 
land  500,000  acres  (the  "Eire  Lands")  were  granted  to  the  towns  which  had  been 
destroyed  diu'ing  tlicwar  (New  London,  Fairlield,  &e.),  and  the  remainder  of  the 
Western  Iteserve  was  sold  to  a  real-estate  company  for  !?  1,200,000,  which  sum 
was  carefully  invested  as  the  school  and  church  lUnd  of  Connecticut. 

The  village  of  Litchfield  is  situated  on  a  broad  plateau,  1,100  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  consists  mainly  of  two  broad  and  embowered  streets,  which 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  hotels  and  county  buildings  are 
near  the  intersection  of  these  avenues,  and  front  on  a  pretty  Green,  which 
is  adorned  by  a  soldiers'  monumerit.  Beneath  the  words  "  Pro  Patria  " 
is  a  list  of  nearly  CO  men  of  Litchfield,  who  died  in  the  armies  of  the 
Union.  2-3  M,  from  the  village,  on  the  S.  W.,  is  Bantam  Lake,  con- 
taining 900  acres,  the  largest  lake  in  the  State,  the  haunt  of  many  fish, 
and  scarcely  yet  invaded  l)y  the  factories,  which  have  ruined  the  charm 
of  so  many  of  the  New  England  lakes.  Near  North  St.  (to  the  1.)  is 
Prospect  Hill,  from  which  a  fascinating  *  view  is  offered,  embracing  the 
wikh^rness  of  high  hills  v.'hich  surround  the  plateau  and  stretch  away  in 
the  W.  Bantam  Lake  i.s  seen,  silver-shining  between  its  sinuous  shores, 
about  a  mile  distant,  and  the  great  elms  and  old  mansions  of  Litchfield 
are  on  the  plain  above  it.  Near  the  corner  of  North  St.,  with  the  road 
diverging  to  the  hill,  was  the  Beccher  nnmsion,  which  has  been  moved 
(1872)  to  S]uing  Hill  (near  the  end  of  N.  St.),  wh- ie  it  forms  a  part  of 
T>r.  Buel's  (private)  asylum  for  the  insane.  On  South  St.  is  the  old  Wol- 
cott  Mansion,  built  about  1700,  by  Gov.  Wolcott  (see  Windsor),  pnd 


BRIDGP]POKT  TO  WINSTED.        JtoiUe  10.     113 


a  of  Tuttle's 

saugatuck  is 

e  large  tree," 

ick  Rinnnon, 

utell). 

likill  Railroatl, 
x),  about  0  M. 

1. 

\),  Pl>Tnouth, 

Is,  and  Litch- 

U.  S.  House) 

This  is  the 

iiction  to  the 

IS  "alUhatpart 
nded  the  E.  by 
;ctts  riantJitioii, 
•agansett  Bay  on 
elongiiit,'."  Sub- 
New  York  and 
uding  the  Valley 
ilution  the  State 
m  the  S.  of  Lake 
)  acres.  Of  thig 
;  whieh  had  been 
-emainder  of  the 
),000,  which  sum 
lent. 

1,100  ft.  above 
_  streets,  which 
|y  buildings  are 
;y  Green,  which 
"  Pro  Patria  " 
armies  of  the 
;am  Lake,  con- 
It  of  many  fish, 
med  the  charm 
|t.  (to  thel.)  is 
embracing  the 
Istretch  away  in 
sinuous  shores, 
IS  of  Litchfield 
with  the  road 
las  been  moved 
irms  a  part  of 
is  the  old  Wol- 
Windsor),  f"^ 


where  was  bom  Oliver  Wolcott,  an  officer  of  the  Continental  Army,  Secre- 
tary of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  (1795-1800),  Gov.  of  Conn.  (1818-27),  and 
founder  of  the  flourishing  village  of  Wolcottville.  The  leaden  statue  of 
George  III.,  wliidi  stood  on  tlie  Bowling  Green  in  New  York  City,  was 
brought  to  this  house,  and  melted  into  bullets  by  the  Governor's  daughters. 
Many  otlier  solemn  old  colonial  mansions  are  along  the  roads,  and  French 
roofs  have  not  yet  invaded  this  dignified  seclusion.  This  air  of  antiquity, 
together  with  the  balmy,  cool,  and  salubrious  breezes  which  dwell  among 
tliese  hills,  have  given  Litchfield  a  high  place  among  the  restful  and  un- 
fashionable of  the  summer-resorts. 

Considerable  quantities  of  copper  and  nickel  have  been  found  in  the  town  ;  but 
the  latter  mineral  is  so  tirinly  united  with  otlicr  elements  that  it  will  not  pay  for 
cxtractioi).  In  this  town  of  3,100  inhabitants,  there  are  10  churches,  of  which 
several  belong  to  the  Eplscoi)al  sect. 

Among  the  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  is  that  to  Bantam  Lake,  with  its 
umbrageous  groves (2 -a  M.)  ;  to  Mount  Tom,  aii<l  to  the  village  of  Morris,  with 
a  (plaint  old  country  inn,  tincha.iged  since  the  colonial  days  (5-U  M.).  From  Mt. 
Tom,  on  a  dear  day,  the  Catskill  Mts.  may  be  seen,  anil  on  the  E.  the  hills  beyond 
tlie  Conn.  River. 

Litchfield  was  bought  of  the  coliny  of  Conn,  in  1718,  for  about  £300,  and  was 
settled  in  1720.  The  village  was  surrounded  by  a  palisade,  lest  tiie  Indians 
siiould  return  in  force  to  their  ancient  and  favorite  hunting-grounds  of  Bantam. 
In  17S4,  Judge  Tai)i)ing  Reeve  (who  married  Aaron  Burr's  sister)  established  a 
Law  School  here,  and  in  17'.>8,  James  Gould,  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Couitof  Conn., 
joined  him,  and  remained  40  years.  This  was  then  the  most  renowned  law 
siliool  in  America,  and  474  lawytiis  were  educated  here.  The  first  Young  Ladies' 
Seminary  in  the  Union  was  established  at  Litchfield.  The  town  lias  ]»roduced 
many  able  men,  cliief  among  whom  are  Beecher  and  Bushnell.  Lj'nian  Beecher, 
I).  I).,  "  the  father  of  more  l>rains  than  any  otlier  man  in  America,"  was  pastor 

II  here  ISIO  -2G.  Of  his  many  illustrious  children,  the  most  famous  is 
J  Henry  Ward  Beeclier,  born  at  Litchfield  in  181.*i.  He  was  educated 
at  l.ane  Seminary  (CiiKiinnali),  of  which  his  father  was  president.  From  1837  to 
]S47  he  was  settied  in  Indiana,  and  in  the  latter  j'car  he  became  pastor  of  the 
I'lyinouth  Church,  iii  I'ooklyn.  This  i)osition  he  has  now  held  for  26  years, 
dining  which  time  he  has  won  a  world-wide  fame  for  his  oratorical  powers,  be- 
sides building  ni»  a  powerful  church  with  active  auxiliary  branches.  Ilis  vigo- 
rous and  i)icturesque  style  is  very  effective  ad  convincing  ;  and  it  may  safely  be 
said  that,  during  the  past  20  years,  he  has  lieen  the  foremost  oF  the  clergy  of 
.Vnierica. 
Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stnwe,  <laughti»r  of  layman  Beecher,  was  born  at  Litch- 
.  field  in  1812,  and  mariied  Rev.  Calvin  E.  Stowe  in  1832,  In  1852  she  imblislied 
"  Cnele  Tom's  Cabin,"  an  antislaveiy  novel,  which  sent  a  thrill  throughout  tliB 
re|iul»lic  and  the  world.  She  has  sinee  itublished  "  Dnd,"  "  Agnes  of  Korreiito," 
"  'i'he  Pearl  of  Orr's  Island,"  and  many  charming  stories  of  New  England  life. 

After  leaving  Litchfield  the  train  stops  at  Wolcottville  (founded  by 
Gov.  Wolcott  in  18U2),  tlie  seat  of  large  woollen-mills,  brass-works,  and 
uuimifactories  of  plated  goods.  In  this  town,  John  Brown,  of  Ossawa- 
tomie,  the  invader  of  Virginia,  was  bom  in  1800.  Station,  Buirville, 
after  which  the  train  reaches 
1  Winsted  (Clarke  House,  $2;  Beardsley  House),  a  long,  narrow  vil- 
^lage  between  steep  hills  on  the  line  of  Mad  River.  Iron  and  steel  works 
aliound  here;  pins,  scythes,  hoes,' tlocks,  and  other  articles  are  also 
made.    Some  dlBtauce  above  the  village,  on  a  high  plateau,  is  Long  Lake, 

H 


t   I 


IHP. 


114    Route  17.     BRlDGEPOiiT  TO  THE  BERKSHIRE  IIILX.S. 

Avhich  contains  1,500  acres,  and  is  nearly  4  M.  long.  The  waters  rush 
turbulently  tlirougli  a  narrow  channel  at  its  end,  and  form  tlie  impetu- 
ous Mad  River,  wliich  descends  200  ft.  in  2  M. 

At  Winstcd  the  Nau<,'atuck  R.  II.  forms  a  junction  with  tlie  Conn.  Western  R. 
R.  running  from  Hartford  to  Millortou  on  tlic  lliulem  R.  R.  (Route  20). 


% 


i  '^ 


17.  Bridgeport  to  the  Berkshire  Hills. 

Via  the  Uousatonic  R.  R.  in  110  M.  (to  Pittsfield).     Fare,  $3.30. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Bridgeport  (on  Route  8)  the  line  enters  the  valley 
of  the  Pequanock,  which  it  follows  for  15  I\I.  through  a  thinly  settled 
country  abounding  in  low  hills.  Stations,  Stepney,  Botsford,  and  New- 
town, the  latter  being  a  village  about  ^  M.  from  the  R.  R.,  situated  on  a 
high  hill  in  the  midst  of  Newtown,  the  Patatuck  of  the  aborigines.  It 
is  here,  according  to  Beecher,  that  "the  hills  lirst  begin  to  show  moim- 
tainous  symptoms."  At  llaxdcyville  the  Shepaug  Valley  R.  R.  comes  in 
from  Litchtield  (see  Route  16),  and  at  Brookjidd  Junction  a  short  rail- 
road runs  S,  W.  to  Danbury  (see  Route  18).  Station,  Brookfield,  beyond 
which  the  track  approaches  and  crosses  the  Housatonic  River,  and  stops 
at  Nexo  Milfonl  (New  Milford  House).  This  is  a  line  village  near  the 
junction  of  the  Housatonic  and  Aspetuck  Rivers,  with  a  wide,  verdant 
common,  and  well-shaded  streets.  A  silver-mine  was  worked  here  in 
1790,  and  much  marble  and  slate  has  been  cpiarried  in  the  liills.  At  pres- 
ent, factories  for  making  buttons,  boots,  hats,  and  twine  sustain  the 
place,  which  is  furthermore  one  of  the  centres  of  the  tobacco  trade  in  the 
valley.  Stations,  Merwinsville,  and  Kent  (restaurant  in  the  station  ; 
Kent  Plains  Hotel).  This  sweet  valley  was  the  home  of  the  Scaghticoke 
Indians,  and  here  the  Moravians  founded  a  mission.  The  cause  which 
more  than  any  other  forced  the  Christian  tribes  of  New  England  to  lose 
their  identity  by  miscegenation  operated  in  full  strength  here.  100  men 
of  this  tribe  joined  the  Continental  Army,  and  but  few  of  them  ever  re- 
turned. So  several  negroes  and  a  few  poor  whites  joined  the  community  ; 
and  from  the  combination  arose  the  present  representatives  of  the  tribe, 
who  plough  and  plant,  wear  pants  and  go  to  chiirch,  and  otherwise  are 
such  Indians  as  Massasoit  never  dreamed  of.  President  Woolsey,  of 
Yale  College,  has  spent  much  time  with  this  fragment  of  the  Scaghti- 
cokes.  On  a  lofty  plain  W.  of  Kent  (ascended  by  a  long  and  arduous 
road)  are  the  Spectade  Ponds,  —  two  lakes  surrounded  by  forests  and 
connected  by  a  short  strait.  From  the  round  hill  above  the  N.  Pond  the 
fittingness  of  the  name  is  clear.  It  is  said  that  a  noble  view  opens  to 
the  W.  from  this  summit,  including,  the  Mts.  of  Sharon  and  Cornwall, 
the  Hudson  Highlands,  and  the  Catskills,  60  M.  away.  (When  the  editor 
made  this  ascent,  in  May,  1872,  tlie  remoter  mts.  were  veiled  l)y  blue 


ILi^S. 


S. 


NORWALK  TO  DANBURY.        Route  IS.     115 


.-atera  rush 
lie  imptitu- 

Westcrn  B- 
0). 


's  the  valley 
hiiily  settled 
i,  aiul  New- 
lituated  on  a 
(origines.     It 
I  show  moiui- 
.  R.  comes  in 
I  a  short  rail- 
diekl,  beyond 
'er,  and  stops 
llage  near  the 
wide,  verdant 
orked  here  in 
lills.    At  pres- 
sustain  the 
l;o  trade  in  the 
.  the  station  ; 
,e  Scaghticoke 
e   cause  which 
iigland  to  lose 
^.re.     100  men 
them  ever  re- 
le  community  ; 
■s  of  the  tribe, 
otherwise  are 
,  Woolsey,  of 
jf  the  Scaghti- 
g  and  arduous 
by  forests  and 
e  N.  Pond  the 
\q  view  opens  to 
and  Cornwall, 
hen  the  editor 
veiled  by  blue 


1 


lieat-mist. )  Tlie  next  two  stations  are  in  Cornwall,  wliicli  town  was  sold 
ill  1738  for  $  1,500  (46  stiuare  M.),  and  settled  in  the  same  year.  It  is  in 
u  double  sense  the  rougliost  township  in  the  county.  S.  Cornwall  is  sit- 
uated in  a  deep  valley,  and  here  a  Foreign  Mission  School  was  founded  in 
1810.  In  1S'20  there  were  19  indiaiis  and  (5  racifie-LslainU'i-.s  studying  at 
the  scliool,  and  here,  in  181S,  dii'd  Obookiah,  the  giftid  Hawaiian. 

Daily  staf,'os  run  from  Comwall  IJrid^re  to  Litphlielil  and  Hliaroii,  and  from  W. 
(>)rii\Viill  to  Cioslit'ii  and  tlic  villairi's  of  (,'orii\vall. 

(ioshcn  is  a  lofty  town,  in  whicii  are  5  i)onds.  and  Ivy  Mt.  (tho  lii^^liest  in  the 
State).  It  is  distiii^inished  tor  the  ricii  Kii;.disli  dairy  ciii't'se  (a  stapltrof  Litch- 
licld  County)  wliich  it  jtrodnccH.  llfic,  in  l.SOO,  was  born  Daniel  S.  Dickinson,  an 
fiaiiu'iit  jurist,  and  senator  from  New  York. 

The  train  now  nins  along  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Ilousatonic  with  tho 
ridge  of  Sharon  on  the  W.  Just  beyoiul  that  ridge,  and  extending  thence 
to  the  N.  Y.  line,  is  a  rich  and  fertile  valley. 

Station,  Falls  VilUifjc  (Dudley  House  ;  and  a  snug  country  inn  in  tlie 
glen  over  the  river).  The  Urcat  Falls  of  the.  Ilvusntunic  are  near  the 
village,  and  form  a  fine  sight,  the  river  plunging  over  rocky  ledges  for  60 
ft.,  with  a  tremendous  roaring.  A  near  scrutiny  of  tlie  Falls  is  unad- 
visable,  as  its  vicinity  is  crowded  with  squalid  Irish  shanties,  while  tlie 
R.  R.  repair-shops  are  situated  above  them  on  the  .site  of  the  Ames 
foundries,  wliieh  produced  some  of  the  heaviest  iron  fortress-cannon  dur- 
ing the  War  of  ISGl  -65.  When  President  Dwight  wrote  so  etithusiasti- 
cally  of  these  Falls  (about  ISOO)  they  were  surrounded  by  the  fitting 
adjuncts  of  a  great  j)rimeval  forest.  2-3  M.  N.  W.  of  the  village  is 
Mt.  Prospect,  whose  cleared  sunnnit  is  gained  by  a  rude  wood-roa<l,  and 
all'ords  a  view  of  the  broad  valley  of  the  Housatonic.  At  the  foot  of 
Prospect  is  a  remarkable  group  of  rocks,  the  darkest,  deepest  nook  of 
which  is  called  the  Wolf's  Den.  W.  of  the  vilhige  is  the  far-viewing 
Gallows  Hill,  where,  according  to  tlie  tradition,  the  corpse  of  a  negnj  waa 
once  found  hanging  from  a  tree,  and  no  one  ever  knew  how  he  came  tliere, 
or  who  he  was. 

Daily  stages  to  Salisbury  and  Lime  Rock.  Station,  Canaan  (two 
country  hotels),  a  small  village  situated  on  the  upper  edge  of  the  valley 
of  the  Blackberry  River,  witli  tlie  great,  ridgy  mass  of  Canaan  Mt.  on 
the  S.  . 

Tlie  Co.m.  Western  R.  R.  crosses  the  present  route  at  Canaan,  and  runs  W. 
through  the  rare  scenery  of  Salisbury  (see  Route  20).  At  the  next  station 
(Ashley  Falls),  the  line  enters  the  County  of  Herkshire  and  iState  of  Massachu- 
setts. For  the  remaining  35  M.  of  this  railroad  line  see  the  "  Berkshire  Hilla" 
(Route  23). 

18.  S.  Norwalk  to  Danbury. 

Via  Danbury  and  Norwalk  R.  R.  in  24  M.  Fare,  90c.  Stations,  Xor- 
walk,    Winnepauk,    Kent,    Wilton,    Cannon's,    Georgetown,    liidgejield. 


I 


__j.-i.    ,  vim 


4  ii- 


lie    Route  IS.       S.  NOUWALK  TO  DANCURY. 

Tlic  latter  village  is  3  M.  from  tlie  station,  on  a  branch  track,  and  is 
situated  on  a  lofty  ridge,  called  by  the  Indians  Caudato'.va. 

During  Tryon's  raid  into  tho  State  (May,  1777),  the  niiliti.i  witlistood  the  ITos- 
Kiiiiis  liohiml  a  barricade  in  Rid;;cli"ld.  It  cost  Tryon  170  n.en  to  take  the  frail 
dctVnf'c,  but  CJeu.  Wooster,  tlio  American  leader,  was  mortally  wounded.  8.  0. 
Coodricli  was  born  here  in  17!':{.  He  wrote  170  books,  most  of  which  were  under 
tlie  name  of  "Peter  Parley."  His  works  attained  the  enormous  sale  of  over 
7,n()(),nno  volumes.  His  brother.  Rev.  C.  A.  Goodrich,  and  his  son,  F.  B.  Good- 
rich ("  Dick  Tinto"),  have  also  won  fame  as  authors. 

Station,  Rcadinri,  where  Putnam's  rude  eloquence  quelled  the  revolt  of 
the  Conn,  line  (177^).  Joel  Barlow,  born  here  in  1755,  some  time  minister 
to  France,  was  author  of  a  fine,  but  forgotten  epic,  the  "Columbiad." 
In  17^3  -  86,  he  was  one  of  the  authors  of  the  "  Anarchiad,"  in  connec- 
tion with  David  Humphreys,  Jonatlian  Trumbull,  and  Timothy  Dwight, 
concerning  whicli  transatlantic  critics  wrote  the  pasquinade  beginning, 

"  Dnvid  nnd  Jonathan.  Joel  nnd  Timothy, 
Over  the  ocean  set  up  the  hjiuu  of  the  — " 

Crossing  Bethel  (junction  of  the  Shepaug  Valley  R.  R.),  the  train  en- 
ters Danbury  (Wooster  House,  Turner  House). 

Danbury  was  "ank^c-deep  in  pork-fat"  in  May,  1777,  when  Tryon's  Hessians 
had  destroyed  the  anny  Ruii))lies  collected  here.  It  is  said  that,  as  the  raiders 
wert  advailcinj^  up  a  hill  near  by,  a  reckless  farmer  rode  to  its  crest  and  shouted, 
"  Halt,  the  whole  universe,  break  off  by  kingdoms  ! "  Alarmed  at  such  a  formi- 
dable force,  the  Hessians  halted,  threw  out  artillery  to  the  front,  and  deployed  a 
line  of  skirmishers.  In  1704  Robert  Sandeman  came  a^  Danbury  (where  he  died 
in  1771),  and  founded  a  sect  on  the  dogma  that  "faith  is  a  bare  belief  in  a  bare 
truth."  In  1870  there  were  20  members  of  this  church  in  the  U.  S.,und  they  were 
divided  into  2  sects. 

Tlie  first  American  hat-factory  was  started  here  in  1780,  when  Zadoc 
Benedict,  with  3  men,  made  3  hats  a  day.  Now  there  are  10  companies 
in  the  business,  witli  $  500,000  capital,  4  of  which  make  216,000  liats  a 
year.  The  Danbury  Shirt  Co.  turns  out  230,000  shirts  each  year,  and 
many  Bartram  and  Fenton  sewing-machines  are  made  here.  The  borough 
has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  9  churches,  4  banks,  a  public  library,  the 
county  buildings,  and  a  great  school,  of  which  Danbury  is  ju  ly  proud. 
Main  St.  is  1^  M.  long,  and  from  Deer  Hill  a  neat  view  of  the  town  is 
gained.  Lake  Kenosha  (2  M. )  is  a  favorite  resort,  and  is  a  pretty  lake, 
with  good  boating  and  fishing.  Powerful  water-works  supply  tho 
borough. 

Near  Danljury  is  a  pretty  cemetery  of  100  acres,  containing  a  monu- 
ment 40  ft.  high,  erected  by  the  Alasons  of  Coim.  to  Gen.  Wooster.  He 
founded  the  first  lodge  in  tlie  State  (Hiram,  of  New  Haven),  and  was  shot 
at  the  Ridgefield  fight.  A  monument  is  raised  to  67  soldiers  (in  the  Se- 
cession War)  of  Danbury,  who  are  buried  elsewhere. 


I 


"  They  sleep  their  lost  sleep, 
Tlicy  have  fought  their  last  battle, 


No  Aound  shall  awake  them 
To  glory  again." 


if'  ,'; 


I 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK.  Route  10.     117 


ick,  and  is 


-)od  the  Ilos- 
ike  the  frail 
idcd.  H.  G. 
1  were,  undor 
sale  of  over 
F.  B.  Good- 


ie revolt  of 
lie  minister 
!olunibiad." 
in  connec- 
liy  Dwiglit, 
iginuing, 


le  train  en- 


•n's  Hessians 
8  the  raiders 
and  shouted, 
iuch  a  foriui- 
[id  deployed  a 
vhere  he  died 
lief  in  a  bare 
uid  they  were 


when  Zadoc 

)  companies 

),000  hats  a 

h  year,  and 

The  borough 

library,  the 

Li    ly  proud. 

he  town  is 

pretty  lake, 

supply  the 

iig  a  monu- 
ooster.  He 
,nd  was  shot 
i  (in  the  Se- 

n 


19.  Boston  to  New  York. 

New  York  and  New  Encland  Railroad  to  Norwich,  connecting  at  New  London 
wilij  Mie  Norwich  line  of  steamers. 

The  train  leaves  the  terminal  station  at  tlie  foot  of  Summer  St.  (PI,  39), 
running  across  the  llat.s  on  tlie  W.  of  Boston  Harbor,  then  through  S. 
Boston  and  over  the  S.  Bay.  It  then  passes  through  the  rural  district  of 
Dorchester,  so  lately  annexed  to  Boston,  and  crosses  the  Nepouset  River 
several  times  near  the  suburban  stations  of  Mattapan  and  Hyde  Park. 
Near  Readville  it  crosses  the  Bostoji  and  Providence  line,  and  then  stops 
at  Dedham  station,  N.  of  whicli  is  the  large  and  i)rosperoiis  village  which 
contains  the  handsome  Court  House  of  Norfolk  County.  Near  Dedham 
are  several  factories  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  Mother  Brook,  which 
is  the  oldest  of  American  canals.  It  was  made  in  16-10,  in  order  to  in- 
crease the  navigable  facilities  of  the  Neponset  River  by  turnhig  part  of 
Charles  River  uito  it.     The  canal  is  3  M.  long,  and  has  a  fall  of  00  ft. 

Fisher  Ames  was  horn  at  Dedham  in  Mh'A.  He  was  an  eminent  lawyer  and 
orator,  and  was  the  leader  in  Coii;,Tess  dining  the  era  of  the  t'unfedt  ration.  His 
"liiUtns"  letters,  jinblislied  in  the  Hoston  papers,  were  political  writings  whicli 
caused  a  great  sensatinn. 

A  branch  railroad  runs  in  2  M.  to  the  main  line  of  the  Roston  and  Providence 
Railroail.    This  forms  the  nearest  route  from  Boston  to  Dedham. 

The  .stations,  Ellis's,  Norwood,  Everett's,  Winslow's,  Tilton's,  Walpole, 
Cam])beirs,  Norfolk,  City  Mills,  and  Franklin,  are  then  passed.  The  lat- 
ter town  was  named  after  Benjamin  Franklin,  and  a  hint  was  conveyed  to 
hiin  (then  at  Paris)  that  a  good  church-bell  would  be  an  acceptable  pres- 
ent in  return  for  the  honor  conferred  on  him.  The  philosopher  sent  the 
town  a  collection  of  valuable  books,  ol)serving  that  the  people  were  prob- 
ably "  more  fond  of  sense  than  sound." 

Nathaniel  Emmons,  D.  D.,  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  Ilopkinsian 
school  of  theology,  was  pastor  here  for  5-4  years.  At  Walpole  the  line 
from  Framingham  to  New  Bedford  crosses  the  track.  Shortly  after  leav- 
ing Franklin,  tlie  line  crosses  the  Woonsocket  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  k  N. 
E.  R.  R.  at  Mill  River  Junction,  and  2\  M.  farther  on  it  crosses  the 
Providence  and  Worcester  R.  R.  (Route  10)  at  Blackstone.  Stations, 
]\Iillville,  Ironstone,  E.  Douglas,  Douglas,  soon  after  passing  which  the 
line  enters  Connecticut  and  stops  at  E.  Thompson,  whence  a  brancli 
railroad  runs  18  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  through  the  Massachusetts  towns  of 
Webster,  Dudley,  and  Southbridge.  After  crossing  diagonally  the  large 
town  of  Thompson  (much  visited  in  summer),  the  train  passes  on  the  rails 
of  the  Nonvich  and  Worcester  Division,  at  Putnam  (a  village  contaiiung 
several  cotton  and  woollen  factories). 

A  daily  siige  runs  from  Putnam  to  Woodstock,  starting  generally  late  in 
the  afternoon.  Elmwood  Hall,  at  Woodstock,  is  a,  tine  summer  hotel  (openin;^ 
June  15),  surrounded  by  pleasant  lawns.  From  this  mountain  village  are  obtained 
noble  views.     "  It  is  a  miniature  Mount  Holyoke  ;  and  its  prospect,  the  Connec- 


■  [ 


118    Route  JO. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


^ 


!•' 


b^' 


ii 


n^ 


I! 


m\ 


If. 


it 


U 


tinit.  Valley  in  iiiiniiiinrp."  (Bkei  her.)  Woodstock  Lako,  1  M.  from  tlio  villace, 
is  II  hoiuitiiul  find  seriuesUired  sheet  of  water,  abounding  in  fish  and  encircled  by 
forests. 

iS.  W.  of  Wofid.stoek  (pa.ssinR  Cr>-stal  Tiake  on  the  way)  is  Aftliford,  a  secluded 
rural  town.  Mere  was  lioni  Tiion)as  Knowllon,  who  fought  in  tlie  six  campaiyus 
ending;  in  the  coiKpu'St  of  Canada,  and  tlu.n  in  the  Havana  expedition.  He  led 
th(!  Ashford  niinute-nien  to  the  lines  at  Cambridge,  and  fougiit  with  them  at 
Hunker  Hill.  While  counnanding  a  light  infantry  reg  he  was  kille<l  at  its  head  iu 
the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights  (1770). 

His  grand-nephew  was  the  knightly  Lyon.  Nathaniel  Lyon  was  born  at  Ash- 
ford iu  IHlit.  He  was  engaged  in  the  Flori<ia  War,  the  Mexican  Wnr(woundeil  at 
the  Helen  (Jate  of  .Mexico  City),  and  the  Kansas  l•'ree-^Stat(^  War.  In  May,  iWil. 
while  coinmauding  at  St.  Louis  Arsenal,  with  a  i:audrnl  of  Uegul.irs  and  several 
regiments  of  loyal  Missourians,  lu^  cajitured  a  large;  rebel  c,inii»  and  army  near  the 
city,  liy  rapid  movements  and  hare'  lilows,  he  .saved  .Mis.souri  to  the  Un^ni,  but 
■was  at  last  confronted  at  Wilson's  Creek  liy  a  force  4  times  as  large  as  his  own, 
comjiosed  of  disloyal  .Missourians,  Arkansiaus,  ami  Texans.  Disdaininj^  to  flee, 
he  led  his  littlt;  army  again  and  again  to  the  attack,  until  he  was  shot  dead  while, 
heading  thi!  foicmost  liles  of  a  charging  regiment.  He  lelt  his  fortune  (.>:; 30, ooo) 
to  the  govenuiient,  to  aid  in  putting  down  the  rebellion,  an<l  after  a  solemn 
triumphal  transit  across  tlie  country  his  body  was  laid  to  rest  iu  the  villii^e 
churchyanl  at  East  onl. 

The  ]ieoi>le  of  Ashl'ord  were  ultra-orthodox  in  the  old  days.  One  day  while 
they  were  whipping  a  nonchurch-goer  on  the  luiblic  Creen,  a  stranger  rode  up 
and  cried,  "Men  of  Ashford,  you  .serve  God  as  if  the  Devil  was  in  you.  Do  you 
think  you  can  whiji  the  grare  of  God  into  a  man?  Christ  will  have  none  but 
volunteer'-."  Then  he  spurred  away,  leaving  the  little  Inquisition  of  Ashford 
astounded,  oon!'used,  and  ashamed. 

In  177:5,  Kli]ihalet  Nott,  D.  1).,  the  distingukshed  educator,  cind  President  of 
L'nion  College  (1801 -(iO)  for  G2  years,  was  born  at  A.sliford.  Galusha  A.  Grow 
was  born  at  Ashford  in  1823. 


ions,  Day.sville  and  Daiiielsonville,  busy  villages  engaged  largely  in 
the  cotton  manufacture  (the  former  turning  out  240  miles  of  fancy  cassi- 
niere.s  and  540,000  yai'ds  of  cotton  cloth  yearly).  These  stations  are  in 
the  largo  town  ot  Killingly,  which  occupies  part  of  the  Indian  districts  of 
Attawangan  and  Miinietixit. 

This  region  is  rich  in  Indian  Traditions,  the  most  curious  of  which  is  attarhed 
to  Mashapaug  Lake,  ^  M.  N.  of  Daysville.  Far  back  in  the  ante-colonial  days,  the 
Indiiins  were  accustomed  to  hold  revels  on  a  hill  on  the  site  of  this  lake.  IJut 
once,  after  a  merry-making  four  days  hmg,  the  Great  Spirit  becanu'  oftcnded  at 
their  riotous  orgies,  and,  as  he  struck  out  the  foundations  of  the  hill,  it  sank  in 
deep  waters,  carrying  down  all  the  assemblage  of  the  feasters.  Of  all  the  tribe 
one  woman  alone  was  saved  (m  an  island  which  still  stands  in  the  lake.  (Jn 
Ktill,  clear  days,  a  great  submerged  forest  may  be  seen  under  the  deepest  waters. 
A  village  of  the  Narragansetts  once  gave  the  Nii)nuicks  (who  inhabited  this  dis- 
trict) a  grand  soa-slioic  least  of  clams  and  tish.  The  next  year  they  were  invited 
into  this  hill-country  to  eat  vcnLsou  in  the  wigwams  of  the  Niiunucks.  But  a 
quarrel  arose  during  tlie  feast,  and  the  guests  from  the  sea-shore  were  massacred. 
The  Narragansett  tribe  took  action  on  the  matter,  and  marched  a  strong  force 
into  the  Nipmuck  country,  only  to  receive  a  severe  defeat  at  the  fords  of  the 
Quinebaug. 

5  M.  W.  of  Daysville  is  Pomfrct,  which  was  settled  by  Roxburj'  (Mass  ) 
people  on  the  rich  lands  of  .Masli;inio(|uet,  in  the  year  1087.  In  Pomfret  is  the 
Wolf  Den,  where  the  intrei)i(l  Putnam  descended  in  the  darkness,  ahme,  and  killed 
a  great  wolf  which  had  been  the  terror  of  the  town. 

S.  of  Ponifrt't  anil  4.  M.  W.  of  Danielsonville  is  the  y)retty  village  of  Brook> 
lyn  (Putnam  House).  This  is  the  county-seat  of  Windham  Co.,  and  has  a  re- 
fineil  and  cultivated  society,  while  its  broad  streets  are  lined  with  stately  trees 
and  line  mansions.  The  Unitarian  Chtu-ch,  on  the  Green,  is  the  oi.iy  church  of 
that  sect  in  the  State,  and  the  buildiug  is  more  than  a  century  old.  Celia  Bur- 
leigh  is  the  pastor  of  thi.s  society. 


1 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  10.     Ill) 


flip  village, 
iiicirt'lcd  by 

,  a  sechuletl 
;  cniiipai^jns 
)ii.  lie  lod 
ith  them  at 
b  its  hciul  ill 

orn  at  Ash- 
wdundcd  at 
1  May,  lH(il, 
aii<l  s<'V(ial 
my  lu-ar  tho 
Uii.oii,  Imt 
as  his  own, 
linj''  to  Hfc, 
:.  dead  wliil« 
iiie(.>*3(>,0')()) 
er  a  sohiim 
1  the  villa^^o 

ic  day  Avhilo, 
iger  rode  up 
111.  Do  you 
le  none  but 
of  Asliford 

President  of 
3ha  A.  Grow 


1  largely  in 
fancy  cassi- 
ions  are  in 
districts  of 


is  attached 
lial  days,  tho 
s  lake.     But 

ollcnded  at 
11,  it  sank  in 
ill  the  tribe 
lake.  (Jn 
pest  waters. 
,ed  this  dis- 
were  inviteil 
(•ks.  But  a 
niassaeird. 
strong  force 

fords  of  the 


i( 


mry  (Mas.s  ) 
iit'ret  is  tlie 
e,  and  killed 

of  Broctk> 

nd  has  a  le- 
stately  trees 
y  church  of 
Celia  Bur- 


Tsinel  Putnam,  bom  nt  Salem,  Mass.,  in  171S,  settled  within  the  present  limits 
«>r  Brooklyn  in  \'i'M^.  From  17.'>'>  to  I7<!'i,  lie  foti^jht  in  the  I'Yencli  wars,  and  was 
nt  the  cajiture  of  Crown  Point,  .Montreal,  and  Havana.  He  then  returned  to 
Brooklyn  anil  remainrd  there  iiiitii  om<'  flay,  when  he  was  ploii^'hiiiK  on  his  farm, 
the  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexington  came  <lown  tlie  country.  The  plon^li  was 
left  in  the  furrow  as  the  old  veter.m  sprant,'  on  liis  fleetest  horse  and  rode  toward 
the  scene  of  battle.  He  rai.sed  a  re^'iment  in  Wiiidliam  L'nunty  ;  was  nii'N'  u 
ma.t.-f?en.  in  the  Continental  Army  ;  and  was  one  of  the  leaders  at  the  f1i;lit  on 
Breed's  Hill.  He  conimandcd  at  New  York,  at  Princeton,  and  in  the  Huds  >u 
Highlands,  until  he  was  forced  to  retire  frr>m  active  service  on  account  of  his  a,i;e. 
II is  old  farmhouse  still  stands,  and  his  remains  aro  obscurely  buried  in  a  cenio- 
tery  S.  of  the  village. 

Danielsonville  i.s  tlie  seat  of  extensive  factories  on  the  water-power 
furnished  by  the  Quinebaug  River.  Cotton  cloth  and  shoc-makuig  are 
the  principal  indu.strie.s. 

Stages  run  thnce  daily  to  Brooklyn,  and  other  lines  run  to  WillLmantic,  S. 
Killingly,  and  ProviLlence  (the  latter  route  crosses  tlie  State  of  li.  I.). 

Stations,  Wauregan  (village  W.  of  the  station),  Quinebaug  Pond  (3  M. 
long)  is  a  pretty  lake,  where  the  "  Narragansetts'  fisliing-light  "  rises  in 
the  form  of  a  pillar  of  fire,  at  midnight,  once  in  every  seven  years.  Such 
is  the  old  legend,  and  dwellers  in  the  country-side  claim  to  have  seen  this 
fiery  column  blazing  over  the  centre  of  the  pond.  The  large  Wauregan 
Mills  (cotton  sheethigs)  are  situated  in  this  village. 

Stations,  Central  Village  (with  several  factories),  Plainfield  Junction 
(wi, ere  the  line  cro.s.ses  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  R.  R. ), 
Je\/'.tt  City,  and  Greeneville.  '  At  the  two  latter  places  are  large  factories. 
The  Quinebaug  River  is  crossed  at  Jcwett  City,  and  soon  after  the  train 
passes  through  a  rock-tunnel  300  ft.  long.  At  Norwich  the  cars  run  on 
the  New  London  Northern  Line,  and  reach  the  steamboat  wharf  at  New 
London  late  in  the  evening. 

After  going  on  board  the  steamboat,  passengers  usually  retire,  and  sleep 
while  she  moves  through  the  quiet  waters  of  Long  Lsland  Sound.  Arising 
early  in  the  morning,  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  eastern  environs  and 
the  city  of  New  York.  The  boats  land  at  Pier  40,  North  River,  and 
from  the  next  pier  runs  the  ferry  to  Jersey  City,  Avhich  enters  there 
the  terminal  station  of  the  railroads  to  Philadelphia  and  Washington, 
the  South  and  West.  , 

When  the  section  of  the  track  between  \Villiinantic  a'ld  Middletown  is  completed, 
the  "Sew  York  and  Boston  Air  L.ine  will  go  into  operation.  From 
Boston  to  Putnam  this  line  is  the  same  as  Route  10,  and  from  New  Haven  to  New 
York  it  is  the  .same  as  Route  8.  It  is  much  shorter  than  the  other  routes,  but 
passes  tiirough  a  less  interesting  country. 


Itl  I 


120    Route  20.        HARTFORD  TO  SALISBURY. 

'  Boston  to  Wnonsocket. 

Trains  leave  the  Boston  and  AUmny  Station.  DiHtanco  to  Woonsockc*..  37i  M. 
Fare,  $1.10. 

The  line  soon  divorRCS  from  the  Albany  track,  and  pasHes  the  ntations,  Bro<»!<- 
llne,  Kcservoir,  and  Chestnut  Hill  (see  Iloute  2).  Newton  is  then  entered,  a 
Ian?e  and  iiieturesnut!  town,  alM)nndiiiK  in  aul)urban  villaKcs.  In  KMO  the  Apostle 
Eliot  rame  to  tlie  iiidinn  viliani'  of  Nonaiitiini,  in  this  vicinity,  and  after  a  formal 
reception  by  the  a;,'cd  chief  and  the  m<^diciiie-iiicn,  he  unfolded  to  them  tlie  tenets 
of  Christianity.  A  lar^*;  i>art  of  the  tribe  accj'jitcd  his  teachings.  forme<l  a  church, 
and  adopted  the  laws  and  customs  of  the  cohuiists.  Near  Newton  Centre,  on 
a  far-viewiuK  hill,  are  the  buildiuKs  jiertainiuK  to  a  Thcolo^'ical  Institution  of  the 
Baptist  denomination.  This  school  is  in  hiKJi  rci)utation,  ami  has  grown  rapidly 
Bin(!e  its  foundation  in  IS-Jf).     Tiie  course  of  stu<ly  covers  three  years. 

Stations,  Newton  Ilighlanfis,  Upper  Falls,  Iligldai'dville.  'U]tper  Falls  is  a 
manufacturing  village  where  the  track  crosses  tlie  Charles  River.  At  Charles 
River  Station  the  river  is  again  crossed.  Tlie  line  now  ]ia,sses  through  the  towns 
of  Dover,  Metllicid,  Medway,  and  Uclliiigham,  twice  cro.ssing  tiie  sinuous  valley 
of  the  Charles.  MedHeld  retains  the  memory  of  a  fierce  attack  by  a  swarm  of 
Indians  led  liy  King  riiilii>,  wlio  "  rode  an  cicgnut  horse."  f>i)  houses  were  Inirnt, 
20  of  the  villagera  killed  and  many  made  jtrisoners,  but  finally  the  pco])le  got  an 
old  cannon  into  position  and  drove  off  the  invaders.  John  Wilson,  .Ir.,agrafiuatc 
of  the  first  Harvard  class,  was  pastor,  ]ihysician,  and  sciioolmaster  of  the  village 
front  1G51  to  10!)1.  The  stations  beyond  Ciiarles  lliver,  are  Dover,  Medfield,  E. 
Medway.  Medway,  W.  Medway,  Cary's,  N.  Bcllingham,  Heiiingham,  E.  Blackstone, 
and  Woonsocket  (see  Route  lO).  At  Woonsocket  a  counectiou  is  made  with  tho 
l*rovidence  and  Worcester  Railroad. 


20.  Hartford  to  Salisbury  and  Mlllerton. 

Via  the  Connecticut  Western  R.  II.  Distance,  02  M.  to  Salisbury  ;  60  M.  to 
Millerton. 

After  leaving  the  Union  Station  at  Hartford  the  line  nins  N.  W.  towards 
the  high  hills  which  bound  the  valley  of  the  Conn.  Stations,  Blue  Hills, 
Bloomfield,  Scotland,  TarifTville  (large  carpet  factories),  and  Simsbury 
(see  Route  15).  At  this  point  a  connection  is  made  with  the  New  Haven 
and  Northampton  R.  R.  (Route  15).  Stations,  Stratton  Brook,  and  New 
Hartford.  The  latter  town  was  formerly  of  much  importance,  being  a  halt- 
ing-place on  the  great  western  wagon  road,  from  Hartford  and  S.  E.  New 
England  to  Albany  and  W.  New  Yc  k.  At  present  it  is  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  cotton  and  steel  goods.  Stations,  Winsted  (see  Route  16), 
W.  Winsted,  Norfolk.  This  is  a  pretty  village  ( Norfolk  House,  $  10  - 1 2 
a  week)  with  mountains  on  every  side.  Before  tlie  church  is  a  Green,  with 
a  monument  *'  to  the  memory  of  soldiers  of  this  town  who  died  for  their 
country  in  the  War  of  the  Rebellion."  The  soil  of  Norfolk  is  cold,  rugged, 
and  stony,  and  it  in  written  that,  of  the  50  proprietors  who  boiaght 
the  town  in  1742,  after  inspection  of  the  tract,  49  forfeited  their 
claims  and  the  moneys  paid  on  them.  Tlie  dairy  biisiness  at  one  time 
flourished  here,  but  the  town  has  been  failing  slowly  for  years  :  in  the 
month  of  April,  1872,  75  persons  moved  away  from  it.  The  hotel  is  a 
large,  quiet  summer-house  in  the  valley,  and  from  the  hills  over  it  are 
obtained  views  of  the  Sheffield  Mt.'=;.  through  long  lowland  vistas.     The 


SALIStlUUY. 


J{'>ii(e20.     121 


:ct:  37J  M. 

nil,  Broo!<- 
pnterod,  a 
he  Apnstl** 
i;r  a  forni.il 
I  the  tenets 
laclnmh, 
Uentre,  on 
Mm  of  thn 
ivn  rapifUy 

Falls  Ih  a 
\t  Charles 

the  towDH 
ions  valley 

Hwarm  oi 
i^ere  burnt, 
jtle  got  ail 
,  agrafhiate 

the  villagn 
l.'dliehl,  K. 
llaekstone, 
ie  with  tUo 


(I 


;  60  M.  to 

towards 
lie  Hills, 
Simsbury 
w  Haven 
and  New 
ng  a  lialt- 
E.  New 
in  the 
onto  16), 
$10-12 
en,  with 
for  their 
,  nigged, 
bought 
d    their 
ne  time 
in  the 
tel  is  a 
it  are 
s.     The 


most  iiroininont  elevation  in  the  vicinity  is  the  massive  llnyatack  Mt. 
(footputii  to  the  suinniit)^  from  which  a  very  extensive  prospect  is  enjoyed, 
stretching  from  Mt.  Everett  in  Mass.  to  the  Mts.  of  New  York.  About 
5  M.  from  the  village  are  Cainel's  Falls,  wl'i'h  are  attrac^tive  after  heavy 
rains.  The  line  now  follows  the  valley  of  ne  lilai'khon'y  River  to  its 
junction  with  the  Housatonic,  crossing  at  Canaan  Station  the  llousatonic 
Railroad  (Route  17)  and  River.  After  jiassing  the  stations,  Twin  Lakes, 
Chapinville,  Salisbury,  Lakeville,  Ore  Hill,  and  State  Line,  all  in  the  town 
of  Salisbury,  the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  York,  and  at  Millerton 
connects  with  the  Harlem,  the  Dutchess  and  Columbia,  and  the  Pough- 
keepsie  and  Eastern  Railroads. 

Salisbury. 

"  O,  this  silenro  in  the  air,  tliis  sileneo  on  the  nioiuitains,  this  silenre  on  the 

lakes On  either  side,  to  the   K.   and  to  the  W.,  ever-vaiyiiiK  niountain- 

forni.s  frame  tlie  hdiiznn.  There  is  a  eonstant  succfssiofi  (iC  iiills  swelling  into 
ni(iuntairis,  and  (»f  mountains  llowiii;,'  down  int  ■  liiils.  J'lie  hues  of  grt'iui  in 
trees,  in  grasses,  and  in  various  harvests  are  endlessly  eontrasti'd.  At  Salisbury 
you  come  und»;r  tlie  shadow  of  the  Taeonie  Han^'*-.  Here  you  may  well  spend  a 
week,  for  the  sake  of  the  rides  and  the  objects  of  euriosity.  4  Jf  to  the  E.  are 
the  Falls  of  the  Housatonic,  called  Canaan  Falls,  very  lieaufllV.l,  .ind  worthy  of 
much  longer  study  than  they  usually  get.  I'rospect  liill,  not  far  tVoni  I'.dls  Vil- 
lage, alfords  altogether  tlie  must  beautifid  \  iew  of  any  of  the  many  peaks  witli 
whi(di  this  neighborhood  abounds."  (This,  and  the  other  (piotatious  under  Salis- 
bury, are  from  B<'eclier's  Star  Papers). 

Ilotels,  Harnard  HoiLse,  ;?2.00  per  day  ;  Miller's  Hotel,  at  ri.ikeville  ;  ami  a  large 
summer  boarding-house  next  to  St.  .John's  Cliureh  (IJjiis.)  in  Salisbury  village. 

The  road  to  Falls  Village  leads  for  2  M,  down  a  naiTow  valley  rich  in 
grain,  and  then  to  the  E.  over  bold  spurs  of  Wolonanchu  Mt.  with  Pros- 
pect Mt.  on  tlie  1.,  and  rapiilly  changing  views  of  the  Housatonic  Valley. 
Or,  without  crossing  Wolonanchu,  the  road  down  the  valley  may  be  fol- 
lowed to  the  hamlet  of  Lime  Rock  and  the  borders  of  the  Mts.  of  Sharon. 

A  favorite  excursion  is  to  tlie  Bald  Peak  on  Mt.  Big'a.  From  S.ilislmry 
to  the  Mountain  Pond  on  Riga  it  is  4  M.  of  easy  .iscent,  most  of  the  way 
along  the  edge  of  a  ravine  filled  with  resounding,  but  invisible,  ca.scade-s. 
A  road  leads  along  the  i)lateau  to  the  base  of  Bald  Peak,  whence  the  as- 
cent must  be  made  by  a  rude  path.  The  view  from  the  sunmiit  is  very 
exten.sive,  emliracing  on  the  W.  the  Oblong,  Buck,  and  Catskill  Mts.  in 
N.  Y.,  on  the  S.  the  wilderness  of  high  hills  which  form  Sliaron,  on  the 
E.  Canaan  Mt.,  Rarack  M;i!itT,  and  the  lakes  of  Salisbury,  and  on  the  N. 
Race,  Alander,  and  Everett  Mts.  in  Mass.  From  (he  little  cluster  of 
houses  near  the  pond  on  Mt.  Riga,  one  c.n  return  to  Salisbury,  via  Lake- 
ville, by  a  road  over  the  brow  of  the  hill,  or  by  a  slightly  longer  road 
(8  M.)  leading  down  the  side  of  a  water-C(nirse  with  pretty  views  of  tin; 
lakes,  to  Ore  llill  (4  M.),  the  centre  of  tlie  iron-mining  industries  of  the 
town.  There  are  5  iron-mines  in  Salisbury,  employing  240  men,  and  sup- 
laying  motal  to  the  forges,  anchor-work:-,  and  foundries  which  abound  on 
t> 


TT 


122    Rn,itc20. 


SALISRUUY. 


h 


i.jf 


.4'    ' 
■,4( 

ii 


-  I.     i 


\i     '..'      ( 


the  etrcftms  of  N.  W.  C'omi.  In  April,  ^801,  tlie  iiiimTs  of  Salislnny 
Bent  loo  tons  of  iron  to  the  gov(>rnin«*nt,  to  Im;  niiMlu  into  cannon-balls. 
From  ()r(!  Hill  (wlii<;l;  is  within  l.l  M.  of  the  New  York  lino)  tin-  road  lies 
near  tlu'  railway  track,  and  jiass((s  to  Iiak('vill(',2i  M.  from  the  nunos. 
A''  the  road  passes  the  lakes  \V(piionka)K)k  and  Wonoiisrapamue,  pleasant 
views  are  oljtained,  ^nd  the  nits,  on  the  S.  rise  rlearly  above  their  <iniot 
waters.  Between  the  road  and  the  latter  lak«^  is  seen  the  .stately  old  iian- 
aion  of  the  Jlolley  family,  bnilt  by  the  Governor  of  that  name,  and  the 
liirthplace  of  Horace  liolley,  the  Unitarian  divine,  long  President  of 
Transylvania  Tniversity,  and  of  O.  L.  Holley,  the  N.  Y.  lawyer  and 
Joiinialist.  On  the  shores  of  the  same  lake  are  seen  the  larpe  white 
buildings  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the  hnliecile,  where,  by  skilful  treat- 
ment, the  thought-germs  in  stricken  minds  are  <leveloped  into  action,  use- 
ful instruction  is  iin])arted,  and  many  heretofore  useless  i)ersons  are 
elevated,  and  sent  forth  as  self-sustaining  members  of  society.  The  Hos- 
pital aiconnnodates  almut  50  patients,  and  is  situated  on  a  hill  which 
commands  line  views  of  the  lake  and  of  Indian  Mt.  After  leaving  these 
charndng  lakes,  a  ri<le  of  1^  M.  brings  one  to  Salislmry.  Mr.  Beecher 
Huggests  that  aff&r  leaving  Bald  Peak,  the  road  may  be  taken  to  Brace 
Mt.  and  the  Dome,  "thence  to  that  grand  ravine  and  its  wild  water, 
Ba.sh-Bish,  — a  ride,  in  all,  of  about  18  M.,  and  wholly  along  tlni  moun- 
tain-bowl." 

*Ba8h-Bish  Falls  are  about  12  M.  from  Salisbury  village,  and  near 
C*opako  station  on  the  Harlem  R.  U.  This  is  a  beautiful  little  waterfall, 
which  has  been  well  i)ainted  by  Kensett,  and  was  much  visited  before  the 
destruction  of  tlie  hotel  by  fire. 

4  M.  N.  of  Salisbury  is  *  *'  Sage's  Bavine,  ■whicli  is  tlio  antithesis  of 
Bash-Bish.  Sage's  Ravine,  not  without  grandeur,  has  its  principal  at- 
tractions in  its  beauty  ;  Bash-Bish,  far  from  destitute  of  beauty,  is  yet 
most  ren)arkal)le  foi-  grandeur.  Y  \\  are  solitary,  rugged,  full  of  rocks, 
cascades,  grand  waterfalls,  and  a  savage  rudeness  tempered  to  beauty  ami 
softness  l)y  various  and  abundant  mosses,  lichens,  flowers,  and  vines.  I 
>vould  willingly  make  the  journey  once  a  month  from  New  York  to  see 
either  of  them.  Just  beyond  Sage's  Ravine,  very  beautiful  falls  may  be 
seen  utter  heavy  rains,  which  have  been  named  Norton's  Falls."  The 
way  to  the  ravine  leads  along  the  under-mountain  road  (4  M.).  Just 
before  reaching  a  blacksnuth's  shop  at  the  bridge  over  a  rill  from  the  hills, 
there  is  a  small  hut  on  the  1.,  and  the  field-road  turns  in  alongside,  by  tak- 
ing down  bars.  It  is  best  to  leave  horses  outside,  and,  entering  tlie  fjcM, 
take  the  first  path  to  the  r.  and  follow  the  strciim  up  the  ravine.  The 
principal  falls  are  know  as  the  Lower,  Twin,  and  Upper  Falls  (well  re])- 
resented  in  a  series  of  12  stereographs).  A  vague  path  follows  up  the 
1.  side  of  the  water  (r.  bank),  "which,  if  you  love  solitude,  wihlness,  and 


If'': 


.1 
•i 

4 


SALISBURY. 


Unutr  JO.      123 


Salislnivy 
lOli-ballH. 
I  road  lies 
le  nnnP8. 
,  ploasant 
ifir  iiuict 

old  iian- 
!,  aim  tlui 
sidt'iit  of 
wycr  and 
rcrt'  'vvliito, 
Iful  trcai- 
:tion,  iise- 
ifsons   art' 

The  n  OS- 
hill  which 
ving  thfso 
r.  Beechcr 
I  to  Brace 
'\V\  water, 
tlic  monn- 


,  and  near 
wateri'all, 
before  tlio 


thesis  of 
icipal  at- 
ty,  is  yt, 
of  rocks, 
L'auty  and 
vines.  I 
rk  to  see 
s  may  be 
Is."  The 
.).  Just 
the  hills, 
!,  by  tak- 
he  fifld, 
ine.  The 
well  rei>- 
up  the 


Iness,  am 


I 


beauty,  will  bo  worth  all  the  pains  you  may  take  to  ili'ub  throij^h  it. 
One  retjuires  a  goo«l  foot,  a  strong  hand,  and  a  (dear  head,  and  then  thero 
is  but  little  danger,"  though  the  path  is  soon  lost  in  a  perfect  chaos  of 
rocks.  Heavy  gloves  and  boots  are  necessary,  and  the  ascent  is  not  rec- 
ommended for  bulies,  although  several  have  accomplished  it.  An  obscure 
mo'iMtain  road  leads  to  the  vicinity  of  the  upper  tul  of  the  ravine,  hut 
the  descent  is  harder  than  the  ascent. 

From  Salisbury,  by  Sage's  Ravine,  N,  into  Massachusetts,  runs  tho 
unth^r-niouiitain  road,  along  the  foot  of  theTaconic  Range,  toShcllicld  a;i<l 
the  Herksldre  Hills.  Frf)m  the  ravine  to  Salisbury,  visitors  .sometimes 
return  by  way  of  the  Twin  Lakes,  a  longer  but  pleasanter  rout(^ 

The  *  Twin  Lakes  are  gained  from  Salisbury  by  a  road  i)asHing  alon^ 
the  low  spurs  of  Rarack  Mat  ill"  Mt.,  with  the  isolated  mass  of  Lion's  Head 
on  the  W.  The  beautiful  lakes  of  Washining  and  Washinee  are  soon 
re.ached,  and  tin;  high  hills  in  the  vicinity  (Tom's  Mt.,  Roar  Mt.)  are  seiMi 
mirrored  in  tln-ni.  Near  the  S.  shore  of  Washinee  a  road  diverges  to  the 
1.  through  the  thick  pines,  to  a  remarkabh*  cave.  This  was  but  lately 
discovered  by  a  hunting  dog  chasing  a  small  animal  into  it,  and  tho 
hunters,  uneasy  at  his  long  absence,  tore  away  the  di'hi'ia  from  the  hole 
and  entered.  At  a  hut  near  the  cave,  where  the  keys  are  kept,  visitors 
can  get  appropriate  <;lothing,  lights,  and  refreshments.  The  main  cavern 
has  been  explored  for  about  700  ft.,  and  its  course  trends  steadily  down- 
ward. The  curious  forms  assumed  by  stalagnutes  are  well  shown  here. 
In  one  place  a  stone  lady  is  .seen,  facing  the  wall ;  in  another,  vast  num- 
bers of  stalactitic  candles  depend  from  the  roof ;  and  nunu'rous  other 
marvels  are  found  by  imaginative  visitors.  The  village  and  station  of 
Chapinsville  is  situated  near  the  lakes.  Mr.  Reecher  speaks  of  the  lake 
rides  as  "  extremely  beautiful.  But  they  should  always  be  afternoon 
rides  ;  for  these  discreet  lakes  do  not  choose  to  give  out.  their  full  channs 
except  at  about  an  hour  before  sunset." 

Rides  are  taken  from  Salisbury  through  the  romantic  hills  of  Cornwall 
and  Sharon,  and  even  as  far  as  Great  Barrington  (N.),  and  Litchfield 
(S.  E.). 

S.ilislMiry  was  first  sottleil  by  tlie  Dutch  in  1720,  who  lived  in  iie;i(>e  with  the 
lufliiiii  triltc  wlio  lield  the  valley  iiml  of  w'loiii  no  reli(^  reiiiJiiiis  save  the  quaint 
niuiies  which  tliey  Kiive  to  hil^cs  and  Mts.  This  was  tiie  I'artliest  ailvaiice  of  \\w 
timid  Hollanders  on  that  Aloiiie  land  (the  ])ri'sent  Mass.,  Coini.,  and  Vt.),  which 
was  |)ortriye,d  on  theinn  i]is  by  a  blank  wliite  spac(!(!ts  (Jreenland  is  on  our  niajis^ 
hiscribfd  with  the  cool  word  "  Winterbei;;."  The  word  "  llousatonic  "  has  given 
rise  to  more  controversy  ainou^'  anticiuarians  and  jdiilologists  than  almost  any  otlier 
Indian  word,  and  one  j,'ood  ant hority  removes  it  from  an  abori'^dnul  derivation, 
and  diinis  that  it  is  a  enplionit!  ehaui^e  of  "Westenhok"  (Western  corner  or 
nook),  the  name  given  to  the  Dutch  settlement  here  as  beint;  in  a  western  nook  of 
the  riiLfged  hills  which  stretch  away  E.  toward  the  Coim.  River.  But  in  1740  tlie 
restless  .\n.s:h)-American  wave  of  advance  reached  this  point.  There  are  no  Dutcii 
or  Indians  there  now. 


i 


124    Route  21.  BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


% 


m 


{ 


21.  Boston  to  New  York. 

The  preat  Express  route,  via  Sprin^rtloM  and  Hartford.  There  are  three  through 
express  trains  (lail.v  in  8-0  hours.  Uistamc,  2136  M.  ;  fare,  S6.00.  This  is  the 
most  popular  and  ]>leasant  of  the  railway  routes  to  Nevi' York,  i)as3ing  through 
the  large  eities  of  Worr-est^r,  SprinKfloM,  and  Hartford,  and  following  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Connecticut  for  a  great  (lislance.  Elegant  parlor  and  sleeping  cars 
are  attached  to  all  through  trains.  ]5y  leaving  Boston  at  0  in  the  morning,  one 
ran  pass  over  this  route  by  daylight  ;  while  by  leaving  at  9  o'clock,  P.  M.,  one 
sleeps  all  night  (.S 2.00  lor  a  berth  in  the  sleeping-car)  and  reaches  New  York  at 
6.30  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Tlie  train  leaves  the  tenninal  de])ot  in  Boston  (comer  of  Beech  and 
Lincoln  Sts. ,  PI.  35, ),  and  passes  out  over  the  Back  Baj-  lands.  Charles 
River  is  approached  on  the  r.,  and  a  fine  view  is  given  of  the  compact  and 
more  ancient  parts  of  Boston,  crowned  by  the  Stal  e  House  dome.  Beyond 
the  city,  and  apparently  at  the  end  of  the  lake-like  widenings  of  the  river, 
the  populous  heights  of  Charlestown  are  seen,  while  Cambridge  lifts  her 
spires  on  tlie  nearer  western  shores.  Tlie  line  crosses  the  town  of  Brook- 
line,  studded  with  pretty  suburban  villages,  and  stops  at  Brighton  (Cattle 
Fair  Hotel),  celebrated  for  its  great  cattle-market.  The  stock-trains  on 
this  r-'ilroad  bring  immense  numbers  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  swine  from 
the  Wesfc,  which  are  here  made  into  beef,  mutton,  and  pork,  for  the  daily 
needs  of  Boston.  The  sheds,  yards,  and  pens  cover  many  acres,  and  the 
business  has  been  increasing  for  scores  of  years.  As  far  back  as  1837,  the 
yearly  sales  were  82,500,000,  N.  of  the  station  is  seen  the  tower  on  Mt. 
Auburn,  and  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  at  Watertown,  on  the  other  bank  of  the 
Charles,  Newton  is  next  entered,  a  wealthy  suburban  town  (valuation, 
$18,000,000),  with  a  population  of  "13,000,  Newton  Corner  is  near  the 
ancient  Nonantum  Hill,  Avhere  the  Apostle  Eliot  first  preached  to  the 
Indians  (probably  the  present  Mt,  Ida,  from  which  a  pleasant  view  :s 
obtained).  This  village  has  a  jjublic  library  in  an  elegant  and  costly  stone 
building,  and  three  or  four  churches.  From  tl)  is  point  to  Walthara  it  is 
3-4  M,,  to  the  W;dcrtown  Arsenal  and  Mt.  Auburn,  2-3  M.,  and  to  the 
Baptist  Theological  Seminary  at  Newton  Centre,  2-3  M.  S.  Tlie  line 
now  passes  Newtonville  (H  M.  N.  of  Grove  Hill  Cemetery),  W.  Newton 
(2  M.  S,  of  the  Watch  Factory  at  Waltham),  and  Auburndale  (the  seat  of 
the  Laselle  Female  Sen)inary),  Tliese  villages  are  all  in  the  town  of 
Newton.  From  Riverside  Station,  a  branch  track  runs  S.  to  the  manu- 
factories at  Newton  Upper  Falls.  Stations,  Grantville  (a  factory  and 
residence  village),  and  Wellesley.  a  picturesque  suburban  village,  near  the 
art-embellished  shores  of  Lake  Wauban.  2  M.  beyond  Wellesley  the 
train  reaches 

Natick  (Summer  St.  House),  "  the  place  of  hiils."  a  large  town  near 
the  river  Charles,  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes.  A  large  hat-fac- 
tory is  located  here,  also  a  base-ball  manufactory,  where  many  women 
are  emrlnvcd. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.     125 


three  through 
This  is  the 
sing  tlirough 
nug  the  rich 
sleeping  cars 
morning,  one 
k,  P.  M.,  one 
New  York  at 


Beech  and 

Is.     Charles 

jonipact  and 

ne.    Beyond 

of  the  river, 

[ge  lifts  her 

7\\  of  Brook- 

ihton  (Cattle 

ick-trains  on 

swine  from 

for  the  daily 

res,  and  the 

as  1837,  the 

)wer  on  Mt. 

jank  of  the 

(valuation, 

is  near  the 

:hed  to  the 

ant  view  :.s 

costly  stone 

iltham  it  is 

and  to  the 

The  line 

W.  Newton 

(the  seat  of 

le  town  of 

the  mami- 

"actory  and 

ffc,  near  the 

;llesley  the 

town  near 
rgc  hat-fac- 
iny  women 


In  IC'il  the  Cliristian  tribe  of  Xonantnni,  whicli  had  oiiibracoil  the  faith  after 
the  preaching  of  Hliot,  removed  to  Natick,  wiiere  they  formed  a  government 
based  on  tiie  ISth  eiiapter  (if  Kxodiis,  with  rulers  of  Inindreds,  df  lifties.  and  of 
tens.  Tlieir  villag'»  consisted  of  tliree  streets  lined  witli  gardens  and  huts,  a 
building  for  a  elmreh  and  sehool,  a  large,  cireular  fort,  and  a  bridge  over  the  river. 
Tlie  Bible  was  translited  into  theii  language  by  Kliot,  and  i>ublished  at  Cani- 
bridL,'e  in  1(>()3  (second  edition  in  IGSO).  whose  title-page  read  as  follows : 
"Mamusse  Wunneetnpanatamwe  T.'i>  Bidlum  God  Naneeswe  Nukkone  Testament 
i;a!i  Work  Wusku  lestanient."  But  despite  the  tender  care  of  the  colony,  the 
Indian  church  and  tribe  sutl'ered  the  usual  fate  of  inferior  races  in  the  presence  of 
Aiiglo-Amuricans,  and  died  out  from  the  operation  of  internal  causes.  In  trans- 
1  iting  the  passage,  "  And  the  mother  of  Sisera  looke<l  out  at  the  window,  and  trried 
t '  rough  the  lattice,"  in  searching  for  an  Indian  etpiivaleut  for  the  word  "  lattice," 
,'ifter  much  labor  Eliot  found  a  b.irbaric  jdirase  which  was  printed  for  it  in  his 
Bible.  Many  years  after,  he  found  that  his  word  for  "lattice"  meant  "eel-pot," 
it:id  th'j  ludicrous  change  in  the  text  excited  much  merriment  in  Cambridge. 

Just  N.  of  Natick,  across  the  track,  and  visible  from  the  train  soon 
after  leaving  the  station,  is  Cochiluate  Lake,  from  which  the  water  supply 
of  Jioston  is  carried  to  tha*;  city  by  a  long  and  sinuous  aqueduct. 

Station,  S.  Framiugham  (restaurant  in  the  station),  near  wldch  is 
Harmony  Grove,  and  the  camp-ground  of  the  52  Methodist  churches  of 
thy  Boston  circuit. 

S.  Franiingham  is  the  centre  of  a  system  of  divergent  railroads, 

A  braiicli  of  the  Bosto'i  anil  Albany  track  runs  8.  12  M.  through  the  farming 
town,  Holliston,  to  Milfonl,  a  town  of  io.ODO  inhabitants.  Ktiiges  run  from  Milford 
to  Mendon  (celebrated  for  its  apples),  Uxi>ridge,  and  Upton. 

The  Boston,  Clinton,  and  I-'itchburg  R.  R.  brings  its  various  divisions  to  a 
centre  at  this  point.  The  MaiisticM  ami  Franiingham  Division  runs  hence  IS  M. 
fc>.  E.,  jtassiug  the  stations,  ^^lleri)orn,  Medfield  .1  unction  ((connecting  with  Woon- 
socket  Division  of  the  B.,  IT.,  and  Erie  R.  11.),  IMedtield,  Walpole  (connecting 
with  the  N.  Y.  and  N.  E.  R.  li  ),  S.  Walpole,  Foxboro',  and  Mansfield.  At  the 
litter  station  connections  are  made  with  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railnmd,  and 
witli  the  Taunton  Bi'anch  Railroad. 

The  Lowell  Division  runs  from  S.  Franiingham  to  Lowell,  2S  M.  N.  Stations, 
Framingliam  and  Sudbur;, .  Sudbury  was  settled  in  KiliS,  and  in  1(170  was 
till!  sciuie  of  a  bloody  contest,  wiieii  70  men,  marcliing  to  relieve  Marlboro', 
were  ambushed  here  by  Indians.  2(5  of  the  colonists  were  killed  on  the  field, 
and  the  remainder  were  lairtunjd.  and  mmy  of  tliem  were  put  to  deatii  by  ter- 
rible torlures.  A  monument  to  their  memory  was  erected  on  the  field,  by  President 
Vi'adswortli,  of  Harvard  College,  whos(;  father  was  captain  of  the  defeated  jiarty. 

In  Sudbury  was  a  famous  old  tavern  in  tlit;  colonial  days,  which,  during  the 
niarcli  of  tlu;  western  counties'  militia  on  Boston,  was  a  busy  jdace.  This  is  the 
"  Wayside  Inn  "  of  Longfellow's  poems,  the  purer,  fairer  Caiiterboi-y  Tales  of 
American  hterature:-- 

"  As  ancient  is  this  hostrlry 
As  any  in  the  lnnd  insiy  be. 
Built  in  the  (ilU  Ci.linml  diiy, 
Wien  men  lived  in  ii  grander  way, 
With  ampler  hospitality. 

A  region  of  repose  it  seems, 

A  place  of  slumber  and  ot  dreams, 

Remote  among  the  wooded  hilla." 

The  cliaracters  represented  among  the  story-tellers  "around  the  fireside  at 
tlieir  etise  "  were  as  follows  :  The  Landlord,  "grave  in  his  aspect  and  attire,"  was 
Squire  Lyman  Howe,  of  Sudbury.     The 

"  Student  of  old  h(X>k«  and  ways, 
Witli  tales  of  Florei  and  Blunchetleur 
Sir  Feruaibrus,  Sir  Eglumour, " 

was  young  Uenry  Wales.     The  young  Sicilian, 


i 
I 


120    Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


t  ■-■t 


•   :   I 


"  In  sight  of  Etna  bred  and  born," 

was  Luigi  Monti,  American  ronsnl  at  Palcnno.  The  "  Theolo;^ian,  from  tlie 
sihool  of  C;uiibri(l},'(;  on  tlit-  Charles,"  was  I'rof.  Trea<lwt'll,  of  Harvard.  Tlie 
I'oet  was  T.  W.  I'arsons,  of  Boston,  translator  of  Dante's  "Inferno,"  and  author 
of  many  short  jxieins.  The  "blue-eyed  Norseman,"  who  bore  the  Stradivi;rius 
violin,  "  a  miracle  of  the  lutist's  art,"  and  sang  the  Saga  of  King  Olaf,  was  Ole 
Hull. 

B(>yond  Sudbury  is  W.  Coneord,  where  the  FitehT)urg  Railrf)ad  crosses  the 
jiresent  route.  Station,  Aeton  (Monunu-nt  House),  whence  marched  a  eomjiany 
(if  minute-men,  who  wc  re  among  tin;  lirst  engugeil  at  the  battle  of  Coneord.  Their 
captain  was  killed  at  thti  ti.,'ht  by  the  bridge.  The  line  crosses  the  towns  of  Car- 
lisle ami  Chelmsford,  and  stojis  at  Lowell. 

Another  division  of  tliis  railroad  runs  from  S.  P'ramingham  to  Fitrhburg.  Sta- 
tion, Framingham  Centre,  built  around  a  lev<d  (Jreen,  in  a  large  farming  town. 
The  great  tide  of  travel  between  Boston  and  the  West  formerly  passed  through 
this  village,  which  then  had  a  famous  inn.  The  town  hall,  old  church,  and 
Academy  (foundeil  IT'.i-)  front  on  the  Green.  The  line  now  ])asses  across  the 
farming  town  of  Southboro',  and  enters  fair  and  fertile  Marlboro'.  This  was  the 
site  of  the  Christian  Indian  village  of  Okomniakamesitt,  and  was  colonized  bj' 
Sudbury  jteople  in  1G.")5.  Its  lirst  pastor  (IWO-  17t>l)  "  uniforndy  refused  baptism 
to  children  Itorn  on  the  Sabbath."  At  Marllioro'  the  pres<'nt  route  connects  with 
a  branch  of  the  Fitchlnirg  Radroad.  Northboro'  is  the  next  town,  and  is  devoted 
to  farming  and  cattle-raising.  The  village  churchyard  contains  tlie  grave  of  the 
Rabbi  Ju<lah  Monis,  who  renounced  .ludaism  in  favor  of  Christianity  in  1722,  and 
became  teacher  of  Hebrew  at  Harvard  College,  where  he  remained  till  his  death 
in  17(>1.  The  train  crosses  the  Assabet  River  E.  of  the  station,  and  then  passes 
on  through  the  town  of  Berlin  to  Clinton  (Clinton  House),  a  busy  village  at  the 
junction  of  the  Worcester  and  Nashua  Railroad.  At  Pratt's  Junction  the  Fitch- 
burg  and  Worcester  Railroad  is  crosstnl,  and  the  train  runs  across  Leominster, 
with  occasional  views  of  Waehusett  Mountain  on  the  W.  The  central  village  of 
Leonunster  is  finely  situated.  Soon  altjr 
Fitchburg. 


leaving  this  station  the  train  reaehea 


From  S.  Fr.iininfjhaiii  the  main  line  follows  the  Sudbury  River,  which 
it  often  approaches  and  once  or  twice  crosses.  Stations,  Ashland  (Cen- 
tral House),  Cordaville,  Southville,  and  Westboro'  (Westboro'  Hotel). 
This  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Reform  School  and  a  large  water-cure  estab- 
lishment. 3.^  M.  S.  E.  of  the  station  are  llie  H«2)kinton  Springs  (small 
hotel)  near  the  large  and  handsome  Whitehall  Pond,  aboundijig  in  fish. 
There  are  three  springs,  all  ditterent,  and  carlionate  of  lime  and  iron  are 
the  chief  ingredients.  This  was  formerly  a  fashionable  resort,  and  is  on 
the  old  Indian  domain  of  Maguncook. 

Station,  iirafton  (the  Indian  Hassanamesit),  Avith  3  small  hotels,  on  a 
resei'vation  of  4  M.  scjuare,  givi.n  by  the  colony  to  a  tribe  of  Christian 
Indians.  Shrewsbury  is  a  toAvn  j..st  N.  of  the  track,  where  was  born 
Artemas  Wafd,  major  of  tlie  8th  Mass.  Reg.  at  the  siege  of  Louisbourg 
(1758),  and  commander  of  the  army  besieging  Boston  until  the  arrival  of 
Washington.  Levi  Pease  was  born  here,  who  started  the  finst  line  of 
mail  stages  between  Boston  and  New  York  (1784),  previous  to  which  a 
fortnightly  mail  was  borne  between  the  two  places,  and  contained  in 
a  pair  of  saddle-bags. 

Station,  Millbury  (near  New  England  Village),  whence  a  short  branch 
track  runs  (3  M.)  to  Millbury  village.  The  line  now  ttinis  to  the  N.  and 
runs  above  and  near  Quinsigamond  Pond,  a  pretty  lake,  4  M.  long,  nat- 


w 


n,  from  the 
rvard.  Tlie 
iuitl  .'nitlmr 
Stradiv;;riu.s 
laf,  was  Ule 

crosses  I  lie 

a  ooiDjiany 

icord.  Thoir 

wns  of  Car- 

iT)tirg.  Sta- 
iiiiiij,'  town. 
(fid  t!iron;.di 
■hurrli,  and 

I  across  tlie 
his  was  tlie 
:)Iiinizod  by 
^(xl  baptism 
iinects  witli 
^1  is  devoted 
xrave  of  the 
in  17'22,  and 

II  his  death 
Lhen  ])assc3 
Uage  at  the 
1  the  Fitch- 
Lconiinster, 
.  village  of 
aiii  reaches 


ver,  whicli 
and  (Cen- 
o'  Hotel), 
lire  estab- 
nr/s  (small 
ig  in  fish, 
iron  are 
siiul  is  on 

tels,  on  a 
Christian 
was  horn 
3uisbourg 
rrival  of 
t  line  of 
which  a 
ained  in 


|t  branch 

le  N.  and 

)ng,  uar- 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


HmUe21.     127 


row  and  deep,  with  12  islands  in  it.  Tlie  college  boat-races  have  often 
taken  place  on  this  pond.  Shrewsbury's  spires  are  seen  afar,  over  its 
waters. 

Worcester. 

Hotels.  *  Bay-State  House,  §3.50,  corner  Mainan<l  Exehange  :  Waldo  House, 
§'J..")ii,  Waldo  St.,  near  the  station  ;  Kuropean  Uou.se  ;  Ivxi'hange  Hotel. 

KeailiiiK-Ilooins*  At  the  Free  Library,  121m  St.,  nea."  Alain  :  Y.  M.  C,  As- 
siteiation,  I'earl  St. 

Horse>Car8on  Main  St.,  from  Webster  Park  to  Harrington  Avenue. 

Stages  to  Quinsigamond.  S.  Wonester,  Oakham,  Shrewslmry,  and  Marlboro', 
Leii'ester  and  Spencer,  Webster  and  Oxford,  Faxton,  Coldbi-xik  antl  Harre. 

Railroads,  to  Frovideiue  (Route  10),  Norwich,  Nashua  (Route  13),  Albany 
(Route  '2.'!),  IJarre  and  Gardiner,  Fitchburg,  and  Boston. 

Worcester,  tlie  second  city  in  wealth  and  population  in  the  Common- 
wealth, and  the  capital  of  Worcester  County,  is  situated  among  a  group 
of  hills  on  the  Blackstone  River.  Its  manufacturing  interests  liave  risen 
rapidly  to  a  commanding  position,  being  favored  by  the  central  location 
of  the  city,  and  the  large  railroad  system  converging  there.  The  popula- 
tion is  over  50,000.  There  are  29  churches,  9  temperance  societies,  11 
bodies  of  Masons,  3  of  Odd  Fellows,  and  3  societies  of  Irish,  3  of  Ger- 
mans, and  1  of  Scotchmen. 

Worcester  claims  the  name  of  an  academic  city,  in  virtue  of  its  numer- 
ous fine  schools.  Its  Classical  and  English  Hi  if  School  employs  4  mas- 
ters and  5  assistants,  and  has  a  noble  buildiiii-,  which  is  surmounted  by  a 
graceful  tower  terminating  in  a  spire.  T'lis  tower  is  a  copy  of  one  of 
the  l)est  European  campaniles,  but  is  uiKortunately  too  slender  in  com- 
paiison  with  the  heavy  mass  of  the  bui'.ling.  Necr  Main  St.  oji  the  S. 
is  the  celebratctl  Oread  >S^illinary  for  young  ladies,  in  pictuies(pie  stone 
buildings  located  on  a  hill  and  sui'ounded  by  ti'ees.  The  castltlike 
structure,  with  embaitled  towers,  ( n  a  commanding  hill  S.  E.  of  the  city 
was  built  for  a  Medical  School,  but  is  now  used  as  an  academy  under  the 
care  of  the  1'  iptist  Cliureh.  The  Roman  Catholic  Collcje  of  the  Holy 
Cross  occupies  an  extensive  range  of  imposing  buildings  on  Packachoag 
Hill,  2  M.  S.  of  the  city, .  d  is  well  attended  by  the  youth  of  that  church 
from  all  i>;irts  of  New  England.  A  State  Niyrmal  School  occui)ics  a  hill 
E.  of  Lincoli  Scpiure,  and  across  the  valley  to  the  W.  are  tlie  buildings 
of  the  Free  ntustrial  School  (90  students),  with  lectures,  laboratories, 
macliiue-shops.  md  all  appliances  for  learning  young  men  to  be  practical 
architects,  carj  iitei'S,  engineers,  chemists,  civil  engineers,  &c.  "  The 
ultunate  end  of  this  iiLstitution  is  the  elevation  of  the  mechanic  by  giv- 
•ing  him  thorough  and  complete  scientific  knowleilge  on  which  he  may 
base  his  future  work."  Tiie  school  is  richly  endowed,  and  is  free  to 
young  men  of  this  county  (others  pay  $  100  a  jear).  Boynton  Hall  (named 
in  honor  of  the  founder  of  the  school)  is  a  graceful  and  ornate  stone  build- 
ing. 1^  M.  N.  of  Worcester  is  the  Hijhhind  Military  School,  widely 
known  for  the  stringent  thoroughness  of  its  discipline. 


128    Route  21.  BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOilK, 


i'  I 


l|i 


■  *i; 


>m 


|!  i 

ii    ( 

I  ! 


'ri.  » 


V5   *    ■ 
n    '     V,; 


•  i 


*»''' 


A  Slate  Lunatic  Anylum  (on  the  family  plan)  is  located  near  the  city. 
It  acconimodate.s  350-400  patients,  and  is  ahoiit  to  move  to  a  pleasanc 
estate  near  Lake  Qiunsiganiond.  It  now  occupies  several  buildings  form- 
ing a  quadrangle,  on  a  hill  E.  of  the  city. 

Hope  Cemetery  in  New  Worcester,  and  Rural  Cemetery  on  Grove  St., 
are  attractive  burying-grounds.  2  M.  p].  is  Quhisiuamand  Lake,  a  long, 
deej),  narrow  sheet  of  water,  on  which  the  college  boat-races  often  take 
jdace. 

Main  St.  is  about  2  M.  long,  and  contains  the  principal  business  houses 
and  hotels.  It  is  a  wide,  pleasant  street,  well  lined  with  trees,  and 
adorned  with  some  fine  commercial  buildings.  Near  its  lower  end  is  the 
Oread  Seminary,  and  the  Jesuit  College  is  seen  across  a  broad  valley. 
C'entral  Park  (the  Common)  is  E.  of  Main  St.  and  contains  the  Old  South 
Church  and  the  Bigelow  Monument,  while  four  other  churches  are  seen 
on  its  sides.  Passing  N.  on  Main  St.  many  fine  business  blocks  are  seen, 
with  St.  Pa  id's  Catholic  Church,  Trinity  M.  E.  Church,  the  towers  of 
the  High  School,  and  numerous  tall  spires  on  the  hills  to  the  1,  On  the 
r.  is  Mechanics'  Hall,  a  fine  audience-chamber  seating  2,500,  with  a 
brown-stone  front  in  rich  Corinthian  architecture.  On  side-streets  diverg- 
ing to  tlie  1,  in  this  vicinity  are  the  Post  Olllce  and  the  reading-room  of 
t!ie  Y.  M.  C.  A.  (Pearl  St.),  and  tlie  Free  Library  (Elm  St.).  The  latter 
contains  32,000  volumes,  being  especially  rich  in  mechanics  and  medical 
works,  while  its  reading-room  (oi)en  from  9  A.  M.  mitil  9  P.  M.)  has  170 
different  magazines  and  jtapers,  in  4  languages.  On  Foster  St.  are  the 
rijoins  of  the  N.^tural  History  Society  with  valuable  cabinets  (open 
Wednesday  aftei'uoons).  On  Main  St.  beyond  Mechanics'  Hall  and  the 
Bay  State  House,  is  the  old  Exchange  Hotel,  a  famous  iim  of  the  colonial 
days,  wliere  Washington  and  Lafayette  have  stopped.  Just  beyond  is 
Lincoln  Square,  where,  on  a  high  terrace,  are  seen  the  Congregational 
Church,  the  granite  Court  House  with  its  classic  front,  and  the  neat 
building  (in  the  Italian  architecture)  of  the  *  American  Antiquarian 
Society. 

In  the  latter  structure  is  i)rcsen'ed  a  valuable  library  of  50,000  volumes,  with 
ancient  portraits  of  Sunuu'l,  Increase,  and  Cott<in  Matlier  and  other  Puritan 
divines  ;  Governors  V/intln-op,  Endicott,  and  other  founders  of  the  State.  Many 
busts  adorn  the  walls,  and  tliere  are  lar^'e  casts  of  Michael  Angelo's  Moses,  and 
Clirist  (bouglit  in  Rome  l)y  Hon.  .Stephen  Salisbury).  In  glass  cases  about  the 
hall  are  several  literary  curiosities,  ancient  black-letter  MS8  on  vellum  (15th 
century) ;  an  elegant  I'crsian  MS.  richly  ilhiininated  (ilate,  l4So) ;  3  Britisli  tax- 
stamps  of  1703  :  MS.  8<>rnions  of  microscopic  fineness  written  by  old  Piu-itan 
pastors;  Latin  books  printed  at  K(jnie  and  Venice  in  1475-6;  Cranmer's  Bible 
(loIiS) ;  Ptolemy's  Geography  ;  missals  on  vellum  ;  and  a  superb  *  Koran  in  Arabic, 
lirilliantly  illuminated.  Two  cases  of  Indian  relics  are  near  the  entrance  to  the 
hall.  This  collection  is  open,  9-12,  and  2-5  o'clock  daily,  except  Saturday  and 
Sunday.  From  the  hill  bcliind  the  building,  the  Free  industrial  School  and  the 
Nonnal  School  may  be  seen. 

On  t}ie  Common,  near  the  Old  South  Church,  is  a  pretty  English  Gotliic 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  Jl     129 


he  city, 
pleasanc 
gs  form- 
rove  St., 
,  a  long, 
ften  take 

ss  houses 
[•ees,  and 
ul  is  the 
rl  valley. 
Hil  South 
are  seen 
are  seen, 
owers  of 
On  the 
3,  with  a 
(tscliverg- 
5-rooni  of 
'lie  latter 
tl  medical 
)  has  170 
are  the 
(open 
and  the 
colonial 
eyond  is 
egational 
the  neat 
iquarian 


nes,  with 
r  Puritan 
e.  Many 
OSes,  and 
iibout  the 
~um  (15th 
tish  tax- 
Puritan 
ir's  Bible 
In  Arabic, 
e  to  the 
rday  and 
and  the 


Gothic 


ts 


monument,  built  of  granite  and  Tuscan  marble,  over  the  remains  of 
Timothy  Bigelow,  Colonel  of  the  15th  Mass.  Continental  Keg.  Near  this 
will  be  raised  (late  in  1S73)  tlie  *  Soldiers'  Monuniout,  whose  bronzes  are 
now  cast  in  Munich.  Colossal  figures  in  the  uniform  of  the  American 
infantry,  cavalry,  artillery,  and  marine  services  will  surround  a  tall  Co- 
rinthian column,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Victory,  standing  on  a  globe, 
with  a  drawn  sword  in  her  uplifted  hand.  "The  expression  of  her 
beautiful  face  is  full  of  exultancy  and  pride.  In  spite  of  her  colossal  size, 
slie  hardly  seems  to  rest  on  the  ball.  Bnt  with  sucli  powerful  wings,  and 
such  an  innate  consciousness  of  strength,  the  air  itself  would  be  a  suf- 
ficieut  supi)ort." 

Tlie  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad  are  at  work  htre  on  an  elegant  new  station  (on 
Wasliin;<ton  Snuare),  to  ho,  514  ft.  long  ami  250  ft.  wide,  with  an  IfaUiau  dock- 
tower  201)  ft.  hJKh,  all  la  heavy  granite  masonry. 

In  IGUy  a  legislative  coujniittee  located  a  .settlement  for  30  families  at  Worces- 
ter (Saxon,  Wajcra,  Ccastar,  War-Castle),  a.s  a  half-way  halting-jilace  between  the 
valley-towns  and  the  coast.  The  eitailel  of  this  evdoiiy  wis  near  tlie  i)resent 
corner  of  Main  and  Columbia  Streets.  The  Indians  soon  forc<id  the  evacuation 
of  the  settlement,  and  it  lay  desolate  from  1702  to  171:5,  whtui  it  was  reoccupied, 
and  stern  defensive  laws  were  i)as.sed.  A  fortress-like  church  was  built  (on  tln^ 
Common),  and  each  man  was  ordered  to  carry  to  Sunday  services  his  musket  and 
G  rounds  of  ammunition.  In  1720  scune  Scotch  Prcsbyttu'ian  immigrants  built  a 
church  of  their  own,  wliieh  was  assaulted  and  torn  down  by  the  Puritan  colonists 
us  a  cradle  of  heresy.  In  1755  numerous  exiled  Acadians  were  sent  here,  and  soon 
after  the  "  Massachusetts  Spy  "  newsiiajjer  (still  i»ul)lished  there)  began  to  fan  the 
flames  of  revolution.  April  !'.>,  1775,  a  breathless  njessenger  bore  into  town, 
the  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexingtoji.  His  white  horse,  flecked  with  Idood  anil 
loam,  fell  dead  on  Main  St.,  but  he  rode  westward  imi  another,  while  the  minute- 
men  moved  on  Boston  by  thousands.  In  July,  177t),  tlie  Sn.is  of  Freedom  had  a 
grand  feast,  and  among  their  toasts  were,  "  May  the  freedom  and  independence 
of  America  endure  till  the  sun  grows  dim  witii  age,  and  this  earth  returns  to 
chaos."  "Perpetual  itching  without  the  benefit  of  scratching,  to  the  enemies  of 
America."  The  town  sent  27  olHiers  and  40'.t  men  to  the  army.  In  17S6,  Worcester 
was  taken,  and  its  courts  closed  by  800  of  Shays'  insurgents,  wearing  the  emble- 
matic |>ine-brauch.  Father  Fifton,  on  a  missi<uiary  tour  in  IS:!!,  found  foi'.r 
Catholic  families  in  Worcester :  that  denomination  now  lias  four  churches  in  the, 
city,  including  NitttR  Dame,  (les  Cdiudlicii^.  Tiie  poi»ulation  in  18:50  was  4, 0S2.  In 
18(51,  at  the  very  hour  when  tlie  Gth  Mass.  was  lighting  in  the  streets  of  Baltimore, 
the  Bigelow  Monument  was  dedicated  hero.  Said  .Judge  Thomas  at  the  dedica- 
tion, "  The  cry  to-day  in  the  streets  (»f  tiiis  beautiful  city  is  that  which  80  years 

ago  startled  the  quiet  village,  'To  arms  !'    So  be  it,  to  arms  ! It  will  co.st 

us  a  long,  severe,  and  bitter  struggle,  but  this  rebellion  must  be  crushed  out. 
There  is  for  us  no  hope  of  freedom,  of  peace,  f)f  safety  even,  till  this  work  is  fully 
done.  Seven  years  of  war  were  spent  in  the  jmrchase  of  our  freedom  ;  seven  more 
of  toil  in  giving  it  organic  life.  If  seven  years  of  toil  and  lilood  are  spent  in 
securing  it,  in  our  national  redemption,  they  will  be  wi.sely,  divinely  spent, 
with  the  blessing  of  God  and  all  coming  generations  of  men."  Within  live  months 
5,000  men  marched  from  the  Park  to  tlie  Potomac.  The  15th  Ma.ss.  (Worcester  Co.) 
Reg.  paraded  here  before  leaving,  and  received  their  colors  from  the  ladies.  "I 
am  deputed  by  the  ladies  of  Worcester  to  present  to  you  this  banner.  Eighty- 
four  years  ago  to-day  there  was  mustering  in  these  streets  the  lirst  regiment  evi!r 
raised  in  Worcester  Co.  for  actual  warfare,  the  15th  Reg.  of  the  Ma.ss.  Line.  What 
hard-fimght  fields  at  Jlonmouth  and  Trenton,  Miiat  aullerings  at  Valley  F'orge, 
what  glory  and  victory  at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  have  made  that  name  famous  ! 
.  .  .  What  they  won  for  us,  it  is  yours  to  luesorvo  for  us."  —  Judge  Hoak. 

Stations,  Rochdale  (Union  Hotol),  4  M.  S,  of  the  village  of  Leicesti  r, 
U  1 


130    Route  ^1. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


;m 


i-ii 


^i  ! 


r  'I 


on  Strawberry  Hill,  the  Indian  Towtaid  ;  Charlton,  and  Spencer,  2  M.  S. 
of  the  village  (Sjiencer  Hotel),  which  is  on  a  plateau  9o0  ft.  above  the  sea. 
It  has  a  venerable  look  now,  though  De  Warville  (178S)  spoke  of  it  as  "  a 
new  village  in  the  midst  of  woods." 

Elias  Howe,  Jr.,  was  bom  at  Spencer  in  ISIS.  After  workiiiK  in  a  Lowell  cot- 
ton-factory and  ri  JJoston  niacliino-.sliop.  he  wroUKlitout  his  great  idea  of  a  sewing- 
machine,  (patentcfl  184G).  The  idea  did  not  hccdine  ]iopidar,  and  he  was  forced  to 
support  himself  as  a  raihoad  engijeer  vintil  penury  and  harsh  labor  broke  his 
liealth.  After  a  time,  capitalists  toolv  up  his  invention,  and  by  their  help,  after 
lon;^  litigation,  ho  jirovcd  his  jtrior  ri^iht  to  the  patent  a^'ainst 'sevend  comjietiton* 
(ISJ4).  Between  18o4  and  his  death  in  1807,  he  realized  $2,000,000  from  his  sew- 
ing-machines. 

The  line  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Chicopee,  passes  E.  Brookfielfl 
(Wesbakira),  and  stops  at  Brookfield  (Bronkfield  Hotel). 

This  town  was  settle<l  on  the  Indian  lands  of  Quaboag,  by  Ijiswich  men,  in 
1060.  In  KiT.'J  a  larj^e  force  of  Nipmucks  advanced  (»n  the  i)lace.  Envoys  were 
sent  out  to  treat  with  the  Indians,  but  six  of  them  were  killed,  and  the  village 
(the  present  W.  HmoklicM)  was  attacked.  Tlie  iidiabitants  had  gathered  in  a 
garrison-house,  wliicli,  after  the  rest  of  the  village  had  been  i)lundered  and  burnt, 
v/as  attacked  by  the  enemy.  Fin- throe  long  days  the  house  was  defended  with 
desperate  bravery,  thongli  shot  and  flaming  arrows  were  showered  against  it. 
Then  a  cart  fall  of  blazing  flax  and  straw  was  jiushed  against  it,  and  the  defence 
woidd  have  been  ended,  but  for  a  sudden  shower  wliich  extinguished' the  rising 
Jiames.  After  this  shower,  which  they  held  to  be  nnraculous,  a  brave  partisan 
oflicer  with  a  trooj>  of  light  horse  galloped  in  from  Lancaster,  after  a  forced 
march  of  30  M.,  and  scattcicd  the  besiegera.  In  1070,  the  evacuation  of  the 
town  was  ordered,  as  a  ndlitary  necessity,  by  the  Legislature,  and  it  remained 
desolate  for  12  years.  The  Quaboag  Pond  is  a  large  ]»ond  S.  of  the  village,  whose 
waters  flow  by  the  iSashaway  River  through  the  Podunk  Meadows,  to  tlie  Chico- 
pee. 

Station,  W.  Brookfield,  near  the  village  of  heroic  memory  (Wickaboag 
House).  These  various  hamlets  of  Brookfield  are  now  chiefly  noted  for 
their  extensive  shoe-manufactures. 

Stations,  Warren  (Warren  Hotel),  a  prettily  placed  village,  near  which 
is  the  L)ld  Qual>oag  Senunary;  W.  Warren,  Brimfield. 

In  the  Brimfield  churchyard  (.5-6  M.  to  the  S.  E.)  is  buried  Gen.  "William 
Eaton,  s(une  time  an  olliccr  in  the  U.  H.  Army,  find  then  Consul  to  Tunis.  In 
180  j  he  planned  the  restoration  of  Hanud,  tlie  rightful  Bashaw  of  Tripoli,  and 
marched  from  Cairo,  Egyi)t,  with  4<J0  Moslems  and  100  Christians,  across  the 
desert.  With  reckless  bravery  he  stormed  the  ramivarts  of  the  Tripolitan  city  of 
I)erue,  garrisoned  by  a  force  larger  thiin  his  own.  The  United  States  having  con- 
cludeil  a  ]ieacc  with  the  reigning  Bashaw,  Eaton  was  forced  to  nbamlon  his 
eonquest,  and  he  returned  to  America,  where  he  died  (at  Brimlield)  in  1811. 


. 


! 


Station,  Palmer  (American  House,  Nassawanno  House),  in  a  flourish- 
ing manufacturing  town.  The  State  Almshouse  in  Monson  may  be  seen 
to  the  S.  across  the  Chicopee  River. 

From  this  point  diverge  the  Athol  and  Enfield  and  the  Ware  River 
Railroads,  while  the  New  London  Northern  Lijie  crosses  the  track  here. 

Stations,  Wilbraham  (with  the  flourishing  Wesleyan  Academy  3  M.  S.) 
and  Indian  Orchard  (horse-cars  to  the  village). 


,  2  M.  S. 

;  the  sea. 
it  as  "  a 


owell  cot- 
'  a  sewinR- 

S  t"010»''f1  to 

broke  li« 
help,  after 
omjietitors 
n  his  sew- 


Brookficl(i 


ch  men,  in 
ivoys  were 

the  viUuge 
thcred  in  a 

and  bnrnt, 
ended  with 

Hgiiiust  it. 
the  defence 
I'the  rising 
ive  iJiirtis.in 
er  a  forced 
lii)n  of  the 
it  remained 
Uage,  wliose 
tlie  Chico- 


IWickaboag 
noted  for 


near  w 


hich 


icn.  William 
Tunis.     In 

IXvipoli,  and 
across  the 

litan  city  of 
having  con- 

Ibanilon    his 

i  isu. 

a  flouviah- 
[ay  be  seen 

Ivare  River 
tick  here, 
iiy  3  M.  S.) 


5j 


r 


^ 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK.  Route  21.     131 

Springfield. 

Hotels.  *  Ma.s.sasoit  House  (said  to  set  tlie  best  table  in  New  En;cland).  di- 
rt'ctly  alony'^ide  of  the  stitinn,  .S  4  a  rhiy  ;  *  Ilaynes's  Hotel,  a  lar^,'c  liist-cl.iss 
lioiise  on  M.iiii,  nt' ir  i'yni-hon  St.  ;  Cooley's  Hotel,  on  Main  St.,  near  and  N.  of 
til"  Stat  inn  :   I'viiclian  House. 

Readins-rooins,  at  the  City  Library  on  State  St.,  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  Associ- 
ation, iin  Main  St. 

Horse-cars  run  on  Main  St.  and  to  the  Armorv  and  Water  Shops. 

Railroads  leave  the  central  stati  m  for  New  York  (135  M.),  Boston  (OS  M.). 
Albiny  (101  M.),  and  the  North. 

Si»ringlield  was  settled  by  a  comi)any  under  William  Pync  won,  in  16.38,  whose 
coiuiiact  be^an  a>  follows  :  "Artiilc  I.' Wee  intcml,  by  (Jod's  grace,  as  soon  as 
wee  can,  witli  all  convcnifut  siicedi',  to  procure  some  godly  and  faithfull  minister, 
with  whonic  wee  jiropose  to  Joyue  in  cliunli  covenant  to  \v;dk  in  all  the  ways  of 
Christ.  ArfcicLi  II.  Wee  intcml  tliatour  town  shall  be  composed  of  Iburty  family's, 
or  if  wcc  think  inccte  after  to  change  our  iiurpo.se  ;  yet  not  to  excee(l  the  number 
of  fifty  family's,  rich  and  poore."  'i'lie  town  wouhl  liave  been  abandoned  at  one 
time  but  for  tlie  onlers  of  the  Legisl  iture,  forbidding  the  evacuation  of  Mass. 
settlements,  whereupon  the  iieojih'  crcctiMl  a  strong  palisade.  Grea*^  sutVerin^ 
was  exj>erienc(vl  during  the  first  winter,  for  the  freezing  of  the  river  prevented 
vessels  ascending  with  supplies.  Seveial  persons  .-tartcd  for  iJoston,  ami  weiij 
frozen  on  tlie  way.  Pynclioii,  the  magistrate  of  Spriiiglicld,  wroti^  an  anti-Calvin- 
istic  theological  book  in  Ki.'jO,  which  was  condemned  by  tlu^  Legislature  and  burnt 
oil  JJoston  Common.  lb;  was  d('i)oscd  from  his  otli.e,  was  forced,  amid  a  storiu 
of  clerical  wrath,  to  retract,  and  soon  returned  to  ICuglaud  to  escajie  persecution. 
In  l(>7o,  wliile  the  train-bands  of  SpringfieM  wtu-e  guaiding  IbuUey,  the  Indians 
l.tid  a  ph)t  to  destroy  the  phice.  Their  plan  was  exposed  by  a  friendly  Indian 
at  Win<lsor,  whence  a  ri<ler  was  despatched,  who  reacliml  Sjiringfield  at  dead  of 
night,  and  aroused  tlie  iieople.  .Inst  as  they  had  gained  the  shelter  of  three  gar- 
rison-houses, 6)0  Indians  cntereil  tliestreets  and  burnt  every  otluT  house  in  town. 
They  successfully  disjiuted  the  passige  of  tlie  river  against  Major  Treat's  com- 
mand, ami  only  retired  at  tlie  approach  of  M:i.jiu'  Pynehon  and  *J00  men  from  Had- 
ley,  leaving  behind  them  a  sad  scene  of  ruin  and  d(!structi'in.  During  tiie  Hevo- 
lutiou  works  for  repairing  muskets  were  c-;tablished  here,  and  also  a  caiintui- 
foundry,  at  whicli  were  cast  tlie  guns  of  several  of  the  lotteries  which  were  en- 
gaged in  the  battles  near  Saratoga.  Jan.  2'),  1787,  t,2ii0  of  Shays*  rebels  attacked 
tlie  Arsenal,  which  was  defended  by  1,100  militiamen.  A  few  cannon-shot  dis- 
])ersed  the  assailants.  During  the  present  century  Springfield  has  grown  r.ipidly, 
by  reason  of  the  establishment  here  of  the  U.  S.  Armory  and  iiiiiiierous  other 
manufactures,  and  by  the  convergence,  at  this  point,  of  important  railway  systems. 

Springfield  is  a  handsome  city  of  ahout  28,000  iiihahitaiits,  situated  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River.  Its  ])rincipal  thoroughfare  is  Main 
St.,  a  wide  and  level  street,  3  M.  long,  adorned  Avith  many  fine  con^mer- 
cial  buildings.  The  principal  object  of  interest  in  tlie  city  is  the 
*  United  States  Armory,  which  is  established  on  a  pai  k  of  72  acres  on 
Arsenal  Hill  (E.  of  the  station,  and  best  reached  by  way  of  State  St.). 
The  buildings  surround  a  great  quadrangle  called  Union  Square,  and  have 
T)  -700  men  constantly  engaged.  1,000  each  of  the  Sharp,  Remington,  and 
Springfield  breech-loading  rifles  have  lately  been  issued  to  the  army  lor 
test,  while  the  manufacture  and  alteration  of  rifles  and  carbines  is  con- 
stantly going  on.  During  the  War  of  the  Rebellion  the  works  were  run 
night  and  day  for  four  years,  and  at  one  time  over  3,000  men  were  em- 
ployed. Nearly  800,000  guns  were  made  during  that  time,  at  an  expense 
of  S  12,000,000.  The  Arsenal  is  a  large  building  on  the  W.  of  the  quad- 
rangle, in  whicli  175,000  stand  of  arms  are  stored,  rivalling  in  their  sym- 
metri.;;tl  avr.unrenient  th.3  similar  colb'ction  in  th"  Tower  of  London. 


-.  lit  :► 

V    ,  ■ 

^ '  ■  . 


132    Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


■■>  < 


"  This  iH  tlio  Arsenal.    From  floor  to  poiling, 
Like  11  liiiKc  oriran,  rise  tlw  l)uriiiNlicii  arms  ; 
But  troiii  their  Kilont  pipes  no  iiiitlicni  pealing 
Startles  the  villases  wMh  straiige  aiaring. 

« 

Ah!  whnt  n  sound  will  rise  —  how  wild  and  flreary  — 
Wlien  the  (leatli-nnirel  toneiiei  those  switl  keys  I 

■What  loud  lirnent  nnd  disninl  Mi^'erere 
Will  mingle  with  their  uwCiil  svmplionics  I" 

LOXOFELLOW. 

From  the  tower  of  tlie  Arsenal  is  gained  a  fine  view  of  the  eity  and  its 
environs.  Passes  for  a  survey  of  tl»e  shops,  &c,,  may  be  obtained  at  the 
Armory  ofTice.  The  eight-liour  system  is  in  foree  in  these  works,  althougli 
mucli  of  the  work  is  i)aid  for  by  the  piece.  1  M.  S.  E.  of  the  Armory  are 
the  Water-Slio])s,  where  tlie  heavier  Labor  is  done,  and  where  the  gun- 
barrels  are  made  and  tested. 

Near  the  Armory,  on  the  S.  E.,  is  the  large  and  beautiful  Springfield 
Cemetery,  covering  about  40  acres.  Near  this,  on  the  S.,  is  Crescent 
Hill,  with  two  elegant  villas  and  an  extensive  and  ])leasing  view. 

On  State  St.,  between  Main  St.  and  the  Armory  grounds,  are  several  fine 
buildings.  The  *  Church  of  the  Unity  (on  the  r.)  is  one  of  the  noblest 
ecclesiastical  structures  in  the  State,  an<l,  with  its  cloistered  })ortico,  broad 
windows,  and  lofty  detached  tower  and  sjiirc,  it  forms  a  strikingly  beau- 
tiful ol)ject.  It  architecture  is  Gothic,  and  its  matciial  is  brown  stone. 
Just  above  the  church  is  the  unicjue  and  graceful  building  of  the  High 
School,  and  oi>posite  the  cliurch  is  the  *  City  Free  Library,  with  its 
handsome  building.  A  library  of  32,000  volumes  is  contained  in  a  richly 
ornamented  and  well-arranged  hall,  while  on  the  floor  below  is  a  Museum 
(open  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  2  -  .">  P.  lil. )  containing  900  stuffed  birds, 
120  stuffed  qua<lrupeds,  and  several  thousand  specimens  of  fossils,  fish, 
reptiles,  and  minerals.  There  are  also  cabinets  of  Indian  antiquities,  and 
several  captured  Confederate  flags.  Just  al)0ve  the  Library  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael.  Court  Stpiare  is  near  the  centre  of 
the  city,  and  has  on  one  side  the  City  Hall,  contahiing  a  hall  which  can 
contain  8,000  persons.  S.  of  Court  Square  is  the  *  Court  House  of 
Hampden  County,  a  massive  new  structure  of  granite,  costing  .$200,000. 
It  has  a  tall  tcwer,  balconies,  and  other  features  drawn  from  Italian 
municipal  palaces.  The  1st  Congregational  Church  (society  founded  1637) 
fronts  on  this  sipiare.  In  1  M.  from  the  City  Hall,  passing  N.  W.  on  the 
busy  and  attractive  Main  St.,  one  reaches  Round  Hill  and  the  Memorial 
Church,  built  of  granite  in  Gothic  architecture.  Hampden  Park,  near 
by,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  has  fine  race-tracks,  and  is  used  for  cattle- 
shows.  - 

There  are  several  fine  churches  in  the  city  besides  those  mentioned  (20 
churches  in  all).  There  are  9  Masonic  l)odies,  4  of  0<ld  Fellows,  7  banks 
of  deposit,  and  3  savings  l)aidcs.  The  valuation  of  the  city  in  1872  was 
%  30,000,000,  and  during  the  sanie  year  its  merchants  had  $  20,000,000 


^ 


OFKLLOW. 

ty  and  its 
led  at  the 
?,  althongli 
irnioi  y  iiro 
!  the  gun- 

■^priiigfield 
s  Crescent 

V. 

jeveral  fine 
he  noblest 
tico,  broad 
iiigly  buau- 
own  stone. 
r  the  Iligli 
y,  with  its 
in  a  richly 
a  ^luseuni 
iffed  birds, 
issils,  lish, 
uitii's,  and 
he  llonian 
centre  of 
which  can 
House  of 
.$  20(1,000. 
)m   Italian 
nded  1G37) 
W.  on  the 
Memorial 
Park,  near 
for  cattle- 

tioned  (20 

rs,  7  banks 

1872  was 

20,000,000 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


lioulrJI.      133 


vii 


worth  of  wholesale  trade,  mostly  from  the  valley  towns  which  draw  their 

supplies  from  this  point. 

In  1870  SpriiiKliehl  liad  .'$00  maiinfarturiiiK  companios.  eniployiiiK  J. 000  men  aii«l 
1,000  woiiiiMi.  Amoii^'  (ln>  ]irincipal  works  arc  those  of  Smith  ami  Wrssoii,  wlii-rn 
(jOO  iiKMi  are  oiiiployt'cl  in  iiiakiii;,'  i>istols.  I'liis  foiiipaiiy  rcci'ivcil  in  lsv;>  onliTS 
from  the  Russian  Kovcrnmcnt  I'or  40,oiK)  revolvers.  At  IJri„'h  \vr>(»il(N'.  of  th« 
city)  is  tlM!  Wa-ioii  Car  Manula 'tory,  wiiose  hiiildiiiKs  rcijuircil  •J.OiKt.diui  1. ricks  in 
their  constrnetioM.  'I'hese  works  employ  too  men,  an<l  turi;  ont  1(H)  passeii;:r,r 
ami  900  -  1,00  »  frci;,'ht  cars  yearly,  besides  many  thonsainl  car-wheels.  They  liavti 
ni:idc  most  of  the  I'ars  for  the  I'acillc  Ilailro.id  and  the  New  .lersey  Central,  an  I 
also  a  superb  ear  for  the  Kj^yptian  Khedive.  N'early  sou  nu-n  wore  enj^'a^t'd  in 
this  city,  durin,:jj  tin)  Secession  War,  in  the  mannfaetr,;-!'  of  saihlles  an<l  lieavy 
hftrnes.s  for  the  army.  They  delivered  to  the  government  i:^ 'J.-'iOOOOO  worth  of 
those  articles.  .\t  jjresent  abont  lioo  men  are  employed  in  makiny;  trunks  and 
haniess. 

Station,  Longmcadow  (the  Indian  Ma.ssacsic),  settled  in  1(514  on  tlu 
long  meadows  by  the  Connecticut.  It  is  a  jiretty  village  on  a  geiitlo 
swell  near  the  intervales,  and  its  people  are  devoted  to  farnnng. 

The  State  of  Conn,  is  now  entered,  and  the  train  stops  at  Thoinpso;i- 
ville  (Globe  Hotel),  the  seat  of  the  largest  carpet-works  in  the  countuy. 
Since  1828  this  industry  has  been  growing,  until  now  it  uses  up  9(X)  tons 
of  imported  wool  each  year,  and  turns  out  1,800,000  yards  of  ingrain  and 
Venetian  carpets,  from  141  looms.  3-4  .M.  M  of  this  village  is  the  large 
community  of  the  Kiifield  Shakers.  The  village  of  Enfield  (settled  by 
Salem  men,  in  1G81)  is  a  .short  di.stance  S.  of  Thompsonville. 

Station,  Warehouse  Point,  where  the  line  crosses  the  Conn.  River  by 
the  *  Iron  Truss  Bridge,  a  noble  piece  of  engineering,  built  in  Manchester, 
England,  and  set  u])  here  in  18(5(5.  The  road-ljcd  of  18  ft.  wide  is  sus- 
tained 47  it.  above  the  water  by  wrought-iron  tru.sscs,  held  up  by  17 
granite  piers.     The  bridge  is  1,525  ft.  long  and  cost  ,$  2(55,0(^0. 

At  Ila/ardville,  a  few  miles  X.  K..  are  the  jxiwder-works  of  Col.  Ilazanl.  Tlieso 
are  the  largest  in  Kn,L;lanil  or  .Vmeiica,  and  the  former  cotuitry  boni^ht  8  l,2.')0,()iJ') 
worth  of  Hazards  powder  dnrin;,'  the  Crimean  War,  while  vast  amounts  were 
made  for  the  United  States  during  the  Secession  War. 

Station,  Windsor  Locks  (Charter  Oak  Hou.so),  with  iron  and  paper 
mills  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  a  canal  ])uilt  before  the  era  of  rail- 
roads to  enable  vessels  to  pa.ss  the  Enfield  Falls  and  gain  the  Upper  Conn. 
Tourists  were  formerly  carried  from  Springfield  to  New  Haven  in  small 
steamboats  by  this  route.  Tlie  line  crosses  tl:..  Farmington  River  by  a 
fine  seven-arched  bridge  of  red  sandstone,  450  ft.  long. 

Station,  Windsor  (Alford  House),  settled  in  l»);]3-6  by  men  of  Dor- 
chester, on  the  rich  intervales  of  Mattaneag. 

In  addition  to  harassments  from  the  ten  Indian  tribes  with  their  2,000  lx)Wineii 
who  lived  about  Mattaneag,  the  little  colony  was  early  attacked  by  70  IIolla:id 
troops,  sent  by  Gov.  Van  Twiller.  The  Dutch  expedition  retired  before  the 
firm  and  fearless  Puritans,  and  the  Indians  soon  soUl  out.  Rev.  John  Warham, 
the  i)astor-chicf,  who  led  this  nomadic?  Dorcostrian  (.'hun;!!  in  its  14  days'  march 
through  the  wilderness,  was  the  flrstnf  the  New  England  clergy  who  used  notes  iu 
jireaehing.     In  1644  a  road  was  built  to  Northampton,  freight  by  sea  to  or  from 


■ 

r^ 

T 

i'i 

■ 

h 

134    Route  21.  HUSTON  TU  NKVV  YOUK. 

Boston  fostiriK  at  tliis  tiiiK;  .'J:J  prr  coiif  wl  valorem.  Mattliow  fJmiit  <(inic  from 
Kii;;laiiil  to  Don  hcstcr  in  H\M,  ami  thciu-i!  went  to  Winilsor.  Tlic  t;iiiiily  livnl 
lit'ic  for  ovtT  a  ri'utmy,  until  Noah  (iraiit  w.is  killcil  in  tlic  battl*^  <>f  Lukv  »jin»rK«< 
(IT'^ti).  'I'liis  olliccr  waH  tiii^  grcat-KranWfatlitir  of  rrcrtidcnt  tirant.  llogcr  Wul- 
f'ott  and  his  son  Oliver,  governors  of  Conn.  17.M  -4,  an<l  IT'.Mi  -  7,  wcro  born  hen-. 
Oliver  miswortli.  I'.  H.  Senator,  ITH'.i -<•'),  ami  afterwards  Chief  Justice  of  tlifl 
U.  iS.,  was  horn  in-ro  in  1745,  Another  native  (if  Windsor  was  (len.  I'lielps.  who, 
with  his  associates,  lioiighl  >>(  Mass.  and  Cnnn.  !')jM),(Wn  iieres  of  the  Western 
wilderness,  at  a  noniin.il  jirice.  These  tracts  were  laid  olf  in  townshijts  uml 
ran;,'es,  .iinl  sold  to  settlers.  'I'liey  nnw  eonii'rise  the  counties  of  Ontario  and 
Siteuhe:!  (New  Vi>rl\),  and  the  West'  rn  lleserve  of  Ohio. 

There  is  a  long,  lii'oad  (Ireeii  near  the  station,  near  which  are  the  Wol- 
cottantl  Moore  mansions,  and  the  new  Epi.sciopal  ('hurch.  and  ju.st  over  tlio 
river,  is  the  ohl  Cong.  Church  and  the  Green  which  was  the  cradle  of 
Windsor,  and  is  still  called  the  Talisado.  This  town  grows  inucli  tobacco, 
of  which  5,830,000  pomid.s  were  raised  in  the  county  in  1870. 


i'-\ 


Hartford. 

Hotelfl.  —  '  Allyn  House,  a  fliu*  brownstone  building  near  the  station,  nc- 

eonoiiodating  :iO()  guests.  !^-\.()i)  a  day  ;  *  City  Jlotel,  on  Main  8t.,  ^;:.00a  day  ; 
the  I'nited  Stat«'S  and  the  American  Hote's.  nn  tlie  old  Slate  House  S([uare. 

KiUlruads. — The  ])resent  route  to  Springlield  and  Hoston  (i'24  M.),  New 
Haven  and  Niw  Y<u'k  (JO;)  M.)  ;  tl  ■•  Hart!''  d,  I'rovidence,  and  Fishkill,  to  I'mvl- 
dence  on  the  E.  (".tO  M.)  and  Waterluiry  on  the  W.  (:  J  M.)  ;  tin;  Conn.  Vallc\  U.  Jl. 
to  Saylirook  I'oint  (44  M.)  ;  the;  Cn.ui.  Western,  to  Salisbury  and  .Millertfin  (Git  .M.). 

Steainei'8. —  Daily  to  tlie  river-l.imlingsand  Sag  Harbor  (Long  Island)  in  the, 
monuM-r  :  daily,  in  the  afternoon,  IVu'  the  lower  huulings  ;  daily  for  the  river- 
landing    and  New  York  City. 

Start's  to  Fariuington,  Ihoad  ihoolv  M.),  Wetherslield,  Ro<-ky  Hill,  Cuiiii- 
well,  Mailiioro  ('JO  M.);  to  IMoondield  ami  ,-5unsburv,  N.  Canton,  and  W.  Harllaiid 
{■M  M.). 

lIorM'-Cars  nni  along  Main  St.  from  Sjiring  CJrove  Cemetery  to  Wetliersfleld 
(7  iM.),  aisii  finm  the  New  York  steanil)oat  pier,  at  the  foot  of  State  St.,  througii 
State  and  Asylum  Sts.  :J  M.,  passing  the  li.  li.  Station  and  the  Deaf  and  Duml) 
Asylum. 

Carriages  cost  ."jne.  a  cour.se  in  the  city,  7.")e.  for  'J  jiersons,  and  .$1.00  for  .'{ 
l)ersons.      Oi.ubh!  fares  1/etweeu  12  and  Oat  night.     By  tlie  hour,  ."^'i.OO. 

Ai»»us«un'ut»  and  lectures  tVeiiuently  at  Roberts'  (»|iera  House  (an  elegant 
auditnrium),  :;  '»  .Main  St.,  or  at  Allvn  Hall,  on  Asylum  St.  near  the  .Viiyn  House. 

Post  Office  at  *252  Main  St.     Masouie  Hall  at  ;U>a  Main  St. 

*Tlie  I'ark  (4.')  acres)  is  a  iileasaiit  resort  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  reached  by 
several  st(uu'  brid-cs  over  I'ark  River,  and  has  cost  tin   city  s27(»,(iOO. 

Connecticut  was  tirst  explored  by  the  Dutch,  one  -if  whose  sturdy  mariners, 
Adrian  lUack,  ascended  the  Conn.  River  as  far  as  the  tinlield  Tails  in  the  lO-tou 
yaeht,  "Onrest"  (1(114).  In  Ki:;:!  tlie  Dutch  built  a  2-gun  fort,  called  the  "IIir.se 
of  tJood  Hope,"  (m  the  present  site  of  Hartford,  and  lived  jieaceably,   tilling  the 

f?round  and  trailing  with  the  Indians,  until  June,  1030,  when  Thomas  Hooker  led 
lis  church  from  Ni'wlown  tiuniigli  the  wilderness,  and  settkid  here.  The  Park 
River  a  Horded  a  water-power  for  a  grist-mill,  which  was  speedily  utilized,  and 
Windsor  and  Wetherslield,  lueviously  more  imixutant,  brought  their  grain  here 
to  be  gi'ound.  Ihe  colony  was  nameil  I'or  an  olil  Saxon  town  21  M.  N.  of  London, 
derived  from  "the  Ford  of  Harts."  Three  watch-towers  were  built,  and  the  men 
of  the  colony  enrolled  in  train-bands,  two  thirds  of  whom  had  matchlocks, 
bandoleers,  and  rests,  while  the  other  third  were  armed  with  jiikes  10ft.  h>ng.  and 
guarded  the  stundaRl.  These  train-bauds  stormed  the  broach  in  the  Narragan.sett 
Fort  light.  Wuluiuimacut,  sachem  < it  the  river  tribes,  deeded  the  lands  to  the 
settlers,  and  gave  them  a  tribute  of  lie.tver-skins  and  corn,  in  return  for  their  jiro- 
teetion  against  I'ekoath,  king  of  the  Perpints,  and  the  dreaded  Moha\vk«.  Under 
the  influence  oi  her  stern  I'uritan  pastoi-s,  Hartford  enacted  tlie  "  Rlue  Laws,"  by 


iiiuc  fmm 
iiiily  livod 

ogfl'  \V<»1- 

<•«'  of  tli6 
■Ips,  wlio, 
(■  WcHlcni 
Hhi]i.s  uml 
iturio  aiul 


the  Wol- 
.  over  tlio 
rmllt'  of 
I  tobacco, 


uition,  fic- 

.00  a  (liiy  '. 

M.),  New 
,  to  Provl- 
illr\  K.  R. 
»ii  (G'.t  M.). 
11(1)  ill  llin 
the  river- 

lill,  Ciuiu- 
Hiirtlaiid 

(•tlinsflcld 
.,  throiiK'i 
nil  Duiiib 

1.00  for  :{ 

111  ole^aiit. 

11    IIOIISL'. 

iuclii'd  by 


luiniicrs, 

ii;   lO-tou 

"  llirse 

lUing  the 

ker  kd 

If  Park 

d,  and 

lain  liere 

I.iiiidoii, 

1  the  men 

itchlociks. 

Ion;;,  and 

rayansett 

Is  to  the 

tiu'ir  jiro- 

Uiider 

aws,"  by 


Ii 


BOSTON  TO  XKW  YORK, 


Hrwh^2t.      135 


M 


wlii.'i  the  i»ennlty  of  diith  wns  visit«d  for  tho  criiiifH  of  Idolatry,  imchastity, 
wih'liiTift,  bl;uit!n'iiiy,  in  irdiT,  iin:i  stcilin,',  rclicHlon,  iiiitiiii,'  imn-tit-t,  iVc, 
with  ...iv»j,'e  iaw.1  a;,'aiii.it  Sibbith-bitakiii;;  and  tim  uhh  of  tolciccn.  In  1705,  a 
st'iinp  I'j'oii'y  w,n  rdil»!ishrd  Imri',  ''  t  it  was  siu'cdiiy  broken  np  by  an  irniptloii 
of  JO )  aitin>il  ridfivi  from  Winilli mi  (  -.  inty.  In  17''»  -is.io  tho,  town  iKscamo  nn 
inntortant  point  on  tht!;,'rt'at  Ati.intio  sfa-rnroad,  and  10  lims  of  sta:,'c««  criitnvl 
liciv.  I>e  Warsiiln  wmtti  iicri',  "  fn  Con'.i.  Nature  and  Art  havi-disjilayi'd  jill  their 
trennr.'s  ;  it  '\^  redly  the  I'aridise  of  the  V.  K.  "  ;  aii'l  innni;,'  other  jm  idiirts  of 
thiUnte,  he  Hpeaks  enthnsiastii  illy  of  "tin  fair  Con-i.  KJrls."  In  Deeenibr-r, 
IH!),  the  infanriiH  II  utt'-id  ('onvt'nti')n,  eoiiipose  I  of  "JH  delegates  from  (ho 
Hta!:'-*  <if  New  i;;i,'.,'liiid,  im  t  here,  t"  ddi'ieivite  about  erjpplinn  tlie  ;;eneral  (Cte,  ■ 
prnmeiit  in  the  war  with  lui^'laml,  !>  wliieli  war  many  of  tlii-  people  in  tiis 
sei'tion  were  o|)posed.  In  IT'.'.'  Ilirtfoirl  had  a  valuation  of  ?<7.'(l,r>:i:{,  and  ii 
ISl  \  it-i  population  was  ((,.jOO.  at  whieh  tiin  a  writer  pn  Uets  "that  it  will  ( mi- 
(iine  to  extend  its  si/e,  its  interests,  and  it-^  ii  inseipieiiee.  ' 

llartfonl,  "  Tlio  ^{neeii  City  <d  New  Euf^'liunl,"  is  a  semi-capital  of  tli", 
State  of  Coim.,  and  is  (iiiely  sitnatetl  on  low  liills  at  tlio  junction  of  tli< 
Park  and  Conn.  Uivcrs.  It  is  noted  for  its  bcnevok'nt  and  educational 
institutes,  its  extensive  manufactures,  and  its  po^verful  insurance  com- 
I'anies.     The  iiopulation  is  38,000. 

Trinity  College  is  a  wealthy  Episcopalian  instltuMon,  founded  in 
IS'J:?,  and  in  1^71  havint;  1.')  instructors  and  '.'2  studouls.  This  was  first 
known  as  Washington  (loljege,  and  in  1872  it  had  3  long,  hrownstone 
liuildings  (Seabury,  Jarvis,  ami  IJrownell  Halls)  on  the  site  soM  for  the 
present  new  State  Hou^e,  These  hulls  stood  on  a  beautiful  summit  over 
the  Park,  on  which  the  State  House  is  to  be  erected.  This  will  be  a 
nobk'  building,  in  the  architecture  known  as  the  Secular  Gothic  (whose 
best  forms  are  seen  in  the  lintels  dc  Villf  of  l^dgium),  after  plans  by 
Upjohn,  of  New  York.  On  this  hill  is  a  colossal  *  statue  of  Bishop 
Browned  (founder  of  the  College,  and  Bishop  of  Conn.,  1819 -(5.5)  in  his 
episcopal  robes.  The  statue  (11  ft.  high)  is  of  bronzi;,  and  was  made  at 
Munich.  The  Episcoj)al  church  is  stronger  (proportionally)  in  Comi. 
than  in  any  other  Stat'-. 

The  Congregational  Theological  Institute  (founded  1834,  and  has 
graduated  21)0  men)  is  back  of  the  Wadsworth  Athcnjcum. 

Of  the  30  churches  of  the  city,  several  are  adorned  with  ivy  of  great 
luxuriance.  The  1st  Presbyterian  is  a  neat  Romanescpie  building  of  Conn, 
granite  and  Ohio  stone,  anl  the  following  an;  built  of  i  ed-stone,  in  Gothiu 
forms:  Christ,  St.  John's,  Trinity,  Incarnation,  the  1st  M.  E.,  the  South 
Baptist  (with  a  tine  portico  sui)j)orted  by  Caen  stone  columns),  the  Pearl 
St.  Cong,  (with  a  spire  212  ft.  high).  The  three  Cong,  churches  on  Main 
St.,  the  1st  Church  (organized  in  1033),  the  South  Churcii  (organized  in 
1G69),  and  the  4th  Church  have  line  buildings.  The  *Park  Cotig.  Church 
is  of  sandstone,  in  the  early  English  Cotliic  style,  with  stone  columns  along 
the  aisles,  and  a  timber  roof.  The  Catholics  have  2  large  stone  churches 
(St.  Peter's  and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick),  and  are  about  to  l)uild  an 
elegant  new  Cathedral.     The  *  Church  of  the  Good  Shepherd  (Episco- 


■  ■  /     ■.' 


136    Route  21.  BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


pal),  built  Ity  Mrs.  Cult  as  a  uienioriul  of  her  husbaml  and  chililren,  is  a 
g<;in  of  Gothic  archit«!ct\ire,  built  of  Portland  stone  triuinicd  with  Ohio 
white  stono,  with  a  spiro  IM  ft.  high,  containing  a  «weet  chime  of  bells. 
Tlio  W.  front  has  a  grand  memorial  window,  in  the  centre  St.  Joseph 
ran\ving  the  cliild  Jesus,  above  wliieh  is  an  angtd  witli  15  children;  on  the 
1,  the  angel  of  tlie  resniiection,  on  tlic  r.  a  singing  angel.  The  clerestory 
windows  are  low  and  brilliant,  while  the  ehaneel  windows  represent  (lirist 
and  the  12  Apostles.  The  chancel  is  8e})arated  from  the  organ  (<m  the 
r. )  and  the  baptistery  (on  the  1.)  by  columns  ff  Seotcli  graidte.  The 
*  ba])tisni;d  font  is  sustaiucil  by  a  group  (»f  niarb).  cherubs. 

The  High  School  is  near  tlie  Parle  in  a  nonlc  *  Imiiding  of  Norman  and 
French  architecture,  finished  in  18t)D,  at  a  cost  of  $  lt;0,(H)().  Near  it,  and 
on  Asylum  St.  (also  near  the  R.  R.  station,  with  its  Italian  campaniles) 
is  the  mansion  long  occupied  by  Mrs.  Sigoumey,  the  poetess.  The  city  is 
about  to  erect  on  the  Park  a  statue  of  Dr.  Horace  Wells,  one  of  the  dis- 
coverers of  surgical  aiiivstliesia. 

Back  of  the  Cong.  Church,  opposite  the  Athemeum,  is  the  ancient 
graveyard  (entrance  to  the  r.  of  the  church).  Here  are  many  graves  of 
the  17th  and  18th  century,  with  a  massive  sandstoic  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  first  settlers.  Two  taldes  (on  the  r. )  cover  the  remains  of 
Thomas  Hooker,  "tho  renowned  minister  of  Hartford  and  pillar  of  Conn., 
the  Light  of  the  Westeni  Churches  "  (Mathku)  ;  and  of  Samuel  Stone,  a 
divine  who  died  here  in  1()33,  and  whose  ejiitaph  bej^dns, 

"  Now  Enplnrnl'R  glory  nnd  her  rndiant  crowne 
WnH  lie.  who  now  on  sof'fi'st  bed  ofdowiie, 
Till  glorious  rcsiirrt'ctioii  morn  nppfiirc, 
Uoth  sufc-Iy,  sweetly  sleepe  in  Jesus  here." 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institute  was  founded  by  Dr.  Gallaudet  in  1817, 
and  is  the  oldest  in  America.  The  building  (130  by  50  ft.)  was  erected 
in  1820,  and  .stands  on  an  embowered  hill  near  the  R.  R.  station,  on 
Asylum  St.  It  has  200  -  250  inmates.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  (es- 
tablished 1824)  is  a  stately  building  of  sandstone  covered  with  gi-ay 
cement,  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  city.  From  its  great  elevation,  its 
vicinity  commands  fine  valley-views.  It  has  received  over  4,000  patients, 
and  has  discharged  2,000  as  cured.  The  Citif  Ilosjiital  is  near  the  Retreat, 
and  is  a  large,  plain,  and  commodious  building  of  sandstone.  In  the 
opposite  section  of  the  city  (Upper  Main  St.)  is  the  State  Arsenal,  the 
Widows'  Home,  and  the  extensive  North  Cemetery, 

The  old  State  House  Square  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  Here  stands 
the  State  IIo>(se,  a  homely  old  structure  of  brick,  which  dates  from  1794. 
In  its  Senate  chamber  the  Hartford  Convention  assembled  in  1815.  The 
Secretary's  office  contains  the  original  royal  charter,  framed  in  wootl  of 
the  Charter  Oak.  In  the  Senate  Chamber,  also,  besides  Stuart's  picture 
of  Washington,  and  portraits  of  the  governors  of  Conn,  from  1635  to  1870, 
is  a  large  chair  made  of  the  same  wood. 


CI 


]' 


IMren,  is  a 
with  Ohio 
e  of  V)ell8. 
St.  Joseph 
['11 ;  on  tho 
clerestory 
sent  (lirist 
in  (on  tho 
iiite.     Tho 

orniaii  and 
ear  it,  and 
xnipaniles) 
rh(!  city  is 
af  tho  dis- 

10  ancient 
graves  of 
snt  to  the 
eniains  of 
of  Conn., 
j1  Stone,  a 


t  in  1817, 
IS  erected 
tation,  on 
isa7ie  (es- 
ivith  gray 
'ation,  its 
>  patients, 
e  Retreat, 
.  In  the 
senal,  tho 

sre  stands 
•om  1794. 
^5.  The 
wood  of 
's  picture 
5  to  1870, 


f:  } 


^  *    1    ■      *- - 


'    '     '        'O,^ 


& 


> 


tal  of  marble,  with  the  toliowing  weii-(ini.  „„.  . 

Worn.in  :  2,  the  Toinpt-ition  ;  8,  the  Fall  ;  4.  Ilidins'  from  Go.l  ;  5.  the  Kxpulsiou 

from  FAm  ;  fi.  Lim'^Mtitioii  ;  7,   Tillini  thf  Oi-ouii.l  :  S,  the  First-Boru. 


IIAUTIOKIK  I 

I    SlfiU  Housr  \Wy^  S/.fW-firs  \i\ 

\\  C'UvHoll  KAViVark  '       t/l 


4  (hnn  Jnsunirt((I.i^f^f  !).-T 
"SCharlrrOnh  1)5. 
()  W'fiil^wmr///  (ft/ifnotv'if  i). 

7  Siad^  OrsunaJy .      («.') 

8  IhviWJjnmudsyhm/  C 

SS  Hn/kSrlu>n! K.'.? 

10  h'.U.S/r/u'n  K'l 

W  lu  Irt  ftl  foj  tlichiMUif  \ '.» 
lU  Ch/fs  Ormrry  li.( 

( "Imrchcs. 


v^au^n  ..  '     K..; 

20  CUy  -        \)\ 

'IVanibJ  SUifi's      \\\ 


i    ■ 


It-  (nu^fi ShfpltmL         lUl.*^?  Uiicura 


^S^     HAR-^fORO 
D 


13( 

pal) 
gem 
whi 
Tlvj 
can 
1.  t] 
win 
and 

r) 

*U 

T 

Fre 
on  - 
is  ti 
abo 
cov 

r 

gra 
the 
me] 
Th. 
the 
di? 

i 


an( 

in 

As 

tal  i 

cei  I 

vi< 

an 

an 

op 

tb| 

thf  I  iiaiie    — 

of  Wasliingtori,  and  portraits  of  the  governors  of  Conn,  from  1635  to  1870, 
is  a  large  chair  made  of  the  same  wood. 


Hi 


BOS'J'UX  TO  NEW  YORK. 


liontc  n. 


137 


I 


I 


In  Oct.  1687,  Sir  Edmund  Aridros,  the  roy.il  govenior  of  New  England,  enton'd 
Hartford  with  his  troopa,  and  demanded  the  royal  charter,  the  only  sjifeguard  of 
the  liberties  f>f  Coim.  During  a  stormy  eveiiing-meetiiig  the  lights  were  suddenly 
extinpcuished,  and  a  hold  colonial  gentleman  seized  the  charter  and  fled  forth, 
lie  hid  it  in  a  hollow  in  an  oak-tree,  and  there  it  stayed  until  Andros  had  left  the 
How)i  in  great  anger.     The  charter  vas  ever  after  [Meserved,  and  tiic  tree  was  held 

^n  increasing  veneration  until  isr)(),  when  it  was  blown  down  in  a  storm.     Its 

Splace  is  now  markeil  with  a  marble  slab. 

Mark  Twain  asserts  that  in  a  late  visit  to  Ilartfonl  he  .saw  arti(  les  as  follows 
made  from  this  tree  :  "a  walking-stick,  dog-collar,  neeiUe-case,  three-legged  stool, 
boot-jack,  dinner-tible,  ten-jiin  alley,  tooth-iuck,  and  enough  Charter  Oak  to 
build  a  plank-road  fron-.  Hartford  to  Great  JSalt  Lake  City." 

Near  the  State  Hoiuse  Square,  on  the  N.  facmg  Market  St.,  is  the  City 
Hall,  in  the  Grecian  architecture,  but  clingy  in  appearance. 

The  old  State  House  is  to  be  removed  to  anotlier  part  of  the  Square, 
and  an  extensive  government  building  will  be  erected  on  its  })res('nt  .site. 
5  Opposite  State  House  Stjuare  is  the  superb  granite  *  building  of  the 
1  Conn.  Mutual  Insurance  Company,  recently  conq)kled  at  a  cost  of 
$7-800,000.  A  short  ilistance  below  this  building  i.s  the  line  granite 
block  belonging  to  the  Hartford  Fire  In.s.  Co.  On  Main  St.,  alongside  of 
I  the  Athenaeum,  is  the  lofty  *  granite  palace  of  the  Charter  Oak  Insurance 
Co.,  which  cost  above  .$700,000,  The  beautiful  halls  and  oUices  within 
should  be  visited,  and  by  a.sconding  in  tlie  elevator  to  the  ob.servatory  on  the 
roof  (a  courtesy  granted  l)y  the  company  ;  small  fee  to  the  cotiductor  of 
the  elovator),  a  tine  view  is  obtained  of  the  city  and  its  environs.  Tlie 
elegantly  linished  sandstone  office  of  the  Etna  Ins.  Co.  is  nestled  alongside 
of  the  Charter  Oak  building.  There  are  21  insurance  companies  in  the 
city  (9  Life,  and  12  Fire),  having  an  aggregate  capital  amounting  to  scores 
of  millions. 

Wadsworth  Athenaeum. 

While  Amold  was  plotting  at  West  Point  (1780),  Washington  and  Rochambeau 
were  making  plans  and  enjoying  hospitable  cheer  at  the  mvusion  (in  IIartf<jrd)  of 
Col.  Wadsworth,  Cominissary-Ocnoral  of  the  .\rmy.  Wad  ^worth's  son  gave  tho 
land,  after  removing  the  mansion,  for  a  pubiif-  library,  and  the  i>resent  building 
(of  Glastenbury  gneiss,  in  I'astellatcil  architecture)  was  l)'iilt  froi,i  the  proceeds 
of  a  popular  subscription  of  .$52,01)0.  Gn  the  lower  floor  of  the  Atheneeitm  is 
the  Statuary  Hall  (fee  2'  c.),  containing  ca.sts  of  Ganymede,  Wasliington,  Pan,  the 
Shepherd  LJoy,  the  Truant,  Genevieve,  Calvpso,  and  an  allegorical  ligure  of  Cnm- 
merce,  all  by  Bartholomew  (who  died  at  N'aples.  ISJ.S).  Casts,  by  the  same  do- 
signer,  of  Ruth  and  Naomi,  llagar  and  Islit  lael,  thi;  Mnniing  Star,  Helisarius  at 
the  Pincian  Gate.  There  ai' ■  also  cast;  of  SciiwanHialcr's  "  l^ivaria,"  and  small 
busts  (German)  of  Schon.  MuriUo.  Correggio,  Velasipiez,  Domenichino,  Raphael, 
Angelo.  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Gliirl.uidaj  i,  Fiesojc,  Mozart,  (Joethe,  Andrea  del 
Sarto,  Bellini,  Van  Dyk,  Rul>ens,  I'rancia,  Masaccic,  Terugino,  Claude  Lorraine, 
Poussin,  Van  Kyk,  Ilemling,  Diinir,  HoU«'in,  and  Titian.  17  of  Rogers's  statuettes 
occupy  one  long  slielf. 

Busts  (in  marble)  of  President  Fiilmore,  and  *  Diana,  by  Bartholomew  ;  Wads- 
worth, Horace  Busiinell,  and  C.  H.  Olnistea<l,  by  Ives. 

Statues,  Stella,  and  *  Sappho,  Bartliolomew,  and  an  elaborate  work,  'Eve 
Repentant,  his  masterpiece.  She  is  sitting  w  th  liead  bowed  and  hands  <dasi)ed 
in  contrition,  while  her  long,  luxuriant  liair  h  ings  down  her  baik,  and  a  serpent 
is  seen  curling  about  her  on  the  ground.  The  statue  is  upon  an  octagonal  pedes- 
tal of  marble,  with  the  following  well-designed  bas-reliefs  :  1st  Panel,  Creation  of 
Woman  ;  2,  the  Temptation  ;  ;?,  the  Fill  ;  t.  Hiding  from  Go  I  ;  r>,  the  Expulsi''U 
from  F/ieri  ;  «.  LTiii'-if  ition  ;  7.   j'lllinx  the  Grouu^i  ;  s,  tlic  Fir;t  (ioni. 


138    Rvutc21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


9 


On  the  upiier  flo^r  is  the  Picture  Gallery.  JWit  U'ldl.  93,  Qucljcf,  by  Chvrr.h  ; 
!M,  View  <,n  the  Susqucliaiuia,  Church;  :J8,  Kcce  Ildiiio  ;  ]!'.»,  f»'t.  .lep^nip  ;  2, 
V<.'iii<e  ;  21,  (ioor;^'c  W;i.siiiiixt'>n,  ••••liy  from  .Stiiuit,  hy  ElUworth;  58,  Fcust  at 
Levi's  JlmiMc,  (tjicr  Vnul  rcivnese;  I'M,  J-andsoain-,  Lanmun;  120,  yt.  Josejih  and 
Jcsiis,  I ijtr.r  Raphael ;  ',V2,  Marie  Aiitoinftt^-. 

Soiilh  Wall.  92,  llarllord  ruritaii.s  in  tlic  Wildernrss,  C7i?(rc/i  ,•  Biimin;,' Ship 
at  [Soa,  .lewftt ;  4,  liattJc  (17tii  contiiry) ;  .'Sanison  in  Honda;  1,  '  Death  ol  Warren 
.at  Bnnker  Hill,  TriDnhull  (llie  eehdn-atod  Jiistorieal  ]iieinn!,s  Ity  this  artist  liavo 
ex)>lanatMiy  eharts  ajtpended) ;  [>,  Mrs.  Signurney,  Tntmhull;  (12,  llnnihnldt; 
121,  W(lliii;,'t(H)  :  so,  Oliver  Woleott,  Stnart;  2,  Uattle  (d"  Trenton,  Trumhull ;  S7, 
V.  Ellery  Channing  ;  IIH,  Ihiitus  ;  !'l,  Ciirist  in  the  'IVnijile,  I'crry ;  40,  .Soa  View 
in  Fo;,' ;  .W,  Ni;^'ht-seene  at  Najtles  (the  last  twn  are  liri^ilit  "  restore<l  "  jiietun's, 
said  to  iHi  by  Veriiet) ;  10,  Hattk  of  Primeton.  Tnnnlndt;  11,  M)eath  of  Mont- 

S;oniery  at  QuelM-e,  Trdinhiill ;  I'A),  Elevation  of  the  Cross,  r///£r  Rvhens;  12,  Holy 
^'aniily,  TramhuU ;  ,s(i,  .Joel  llawcs,  1).  1>.  ;  W,  lloraee  JJushnell,  D.  I). 

Kant  Willi.  Destnn-tion  of  .lernsaleni,  a  largo  i)ieture,  22x14  ft.,  in  poor  light, 
Init  Cull  of  stndy  (plans  on  the  tallies  near),  hy  li'hirhelo;  27,  Ruth  and  liony.:  05, 
Landscape,  I.shnm  ;  l:!,  Death  nf  Jane  MeCrea,  I'cnnk'rlipi. 

North  Wall.  12S.  John  in  llic  Wilderness,  Cole;  127,  White  Mountains,  Cole; 
)2:{,  Marine  View,  Coim-;  12'.>,  Cascade  hi  th(!  Catskills,  (air;  124,  Tim  Lady  of 
tlie  Lake,  'rnnnbull ;  llio.  Lake  Winnepesankee,  Cole ;  i.'Jl,  View  on  Talcott  .Mt., 
Cole;  34,  'View  of  Sft.  Ktna,  at  smirise,  from  Taoriiiina,  Coir ;  15,  Anieritus  Vo.s- 
pnecius  ;  IG,  Columhns  ;  ■  Benjamin  West,  .Sn- 77;oh)('.s  htvf'nce ;  ;iO,  Declaration 
of  lixh'pendeiice  (small  artist's  copy),  TrinnhuU;  80,  Landscape  near  New  Haven  ; 
100,  Milton's  Descent  of  (Satan  ;  portraits  of  various  celebrities  of  the  tState  of 
Conn. 

In  the  N.  wing  of  the  Athenajiim  is  the  Vvinio  }fcii's  Inslitutr,  with  a  circulat- 
ing library  of  2't,000  volumes,  and  a  re;idiiig-rooin  (r.n  intmduetion  by  a  member 
of  the  Iiistitnte  entitles  one  to  four  weeks'  use). 

The  Cotui.  liistorical  Society  has  its  rooms  in  the  S.  Wing  (open  daily  ; 
no  fees).  IJesides  a  large  library,  many  curiosities  are  kept  here,  among  which 
are,  King  Piiilijt's  club  ;  Putnam's  battle-sword;  bows,  arrows,  pikes,  swoi-ds, 
&('.,  of  six  wars  ;  old  German  missals  ;  dresssuitsat  iM'tiicli  Court  of  Commissary 


Wadsworth  and    Commodore    ]\Icl)<>nougli 


Turkish   scimeter  with  coral  and 


ivory  lii!tan<l  silver  scabbard,  and  iiiscri])tions  in  Arabic  and  Persian  ;  gold  yicn 
*'  worn  out  in  the  service  of  Washinu'ton  Irving"  ;  a  lin''.  f'i  ft.  long)  of  the  chain 
stretciied  ai  i-o'^s  the   Hudson  in  177<>;    a  fuoi-.stov:  40;    Llder  J3re\vster's 

cliest  ;  Htandish  ,>  dinuer-pot  ;  Put ii.im's  tavern-sign  ;  ...mish  shells  thrown  into 
iStoningtnn  ;  a  moitar  captured  in  Mexico;  relics  of  Kailian  Hale  and  Col.  Led- 
yard  ;  Itobbins  J5ible  (147S);  Farmington  ehiindi  drum;  mail  bag  (A.  D.  1775) 
used  betweeJi  Hart.oid  and  New  Haven,  (i  x  0  inches :  the  tir.st  telegraphic  mes- 
sage sent  i'l  America  (from  Washington  to  Baltimore),  "What  wonders  hath  God 
wrought  "  ;  l.'J  Russian  medals  ;  Continental  money  ;  a  pi.sto]  from  Colt ;  Confed- 
erate iiioni'v  ;  a  number  of  the  "  Boston  News  L<tter"  for  Ai>ril  17,  1704  (the  lirst 
number  of  the  lirst  news])aper  in  America:  it  lasted  72  year.^) ;  numerous  )ii>r- 
trails,  M.S.S.,  and  pieces  of  Charter  Oak  ;  AniC'ld's  watcii  ;  the  chair  in  which 
Lee  signed  the  c;i]iitnlation  of  A]i)iomaltox  ,  several  battle-ilags  well  used  ;  the 
.swords  of  I'ulnam  ;  of  McDonough  (\ictor  in  the  baitle  of  the  lleets  on  Lalve 
Chami)lain);  of  Capt.  Ward,  of  the  L'.  iS.  Navy  (born  Hartford,  I80d,  killed  in  the 
attack  on  Matthias  Point,  Va  ,  June  27,  l^'d);  of  Commander  Kogers  (Vcilled  in 
Die  nuvaJ  a.-5sault  on  Fori  .Sumt<'r) ,  of  Col.  Kussell  (of  the  10th  Cunn..  killed  at 
Rounwke,  i/^i'I):  oflien.  Sedgu  ick  (killed  ai  Hjioltsylvania,  .Alay '.',  1804);  and  of 
Gen.  Nath:<ni<>i  J>yon  (conunander  of  the  C,  S.  A.rmy  in  Missouri,  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Wilson's  v.'reek,  Aug.  lo,  i^Wil).  Adjoining  this  roon;  is  the  liall  contain- 
ing a  large  reh'ience  libijiry,  emlowed  witli  ir'iuu.ooo  by  David  Watkiuson,  who 
<lie<l  in  1>^.'»7. 

The  i»riii(  ipal  iiKiiiufac  loijes  of  Hitrlford  are  the  Colt  Rifle  and  Pistol  Pactoiy, 
which  has  ft!  I,0<)t»,00()  cai)itiii,  and  emjdoys  HOO  hauiis.  yince  Col  Colt's  death  it 
haw  been  run  by  a  eompany,  of  which  Gen.  Franklin  is  President.  Its  immen^;o 
Imildings  are  ir.  the  S.  K.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  river,  from  whose  uiundations 
they  are  guaixled  by  a  dike  (.On  (t.  i.road  at  tlie  {op,  and  8,700  ft.  long),  which  cost 
.^8(),;(00.  T!ic  Church  of  the  (iuod  hhejdierd  is  near  by,  and  (dose  to  the  faciory 
is  a  colony  of  .Swiss,  who  make  ni.  will- -w-warc  from  material  grown  here.  In  the 
W.  part  o(  the  city  is  the  (Sharp  kifle  Maind'aetory,  employing  i)-7oo  men,  wliich 


u 


i 


0 


k 


i*f  ,% 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOUK. 


Roufr  21.     1 30 


t.), 


I 

\ 
\ 


\i^ 


h;>«  mvtl;;  100,00 ")  rifles  for  the  U.  S.,  besides  Hlling  largo  orders  fur  FiiRlaml,  (ior- 
inany,  Spain,  riiin  i,  .Tapati,  Mexiro,  rem,  and  Chili.  Tiit'  Win.  Ro.^nTs  Cn.  tnnis 
out  j<S  )  >,(M) )  Worth  of  plated  spoons  and  forks  ye.irly  ;  tlie  .Vslnncid  (iold-Bfut- 
ing  (Jo.  nsft  nji  ll,«>l'i  ounces  of  gold  yeirly  ;  tlic  Weeil  .Sewing- .Macliines  arc  made 
to  the  ninnl)  -r  of  JO.oim)  ;  the  Colt  Willow-Ware  Co.  have  T')  acres  of  willow,  and 
turn  out  100  tons  of  ware  each  year  ;  the  Colmrn  Soap  Co.  jirodnees  i>t)0  tons,  in 
40  v.irieties  ;  anil  the  great  ]tnhlisliing  houses  (subscription  books)  |>rint  many 
fieore  thousand  volumes  yearly.  Hartford  is  al.so  an  important  market  for  wool 
and  tobacco. 

The  city  lias  17  hanks,  7  M.nsonic  lodges,  4  lodges  of  Odd  Fi'llows,  3  cf 
Knights  of  Pythi.'is,  2  Grand  Army  Posts,  G  teinperaiice  societii's,  and  7 
o/(7''  military  coniiianics,  ono  of  which,  tho  Putnam  I'hahuix,  i.s  widely 
famed.  Its  members  dross  in  anticjue  unifomis,  and  the  corps  (12o  men) 
is  said  to  represent  .$11,000,000.  The  city  has  more  wealth  in  propor- 
tion to  its  j)opulation  than  any  other  American  city,  and  its  society  is  of 
a  liigh  and  cultivated  orrler. 

liy  following  Main  St.  to  tlie  S.  beyond  St.  Peter's  Church,  Annsmrar 
is  soon  reaclnnl  (on  the  1.).  This  is  the  residence  of  the  Colt  family,  with 
spacious  grounds  adorned  with  groves,  lakes,  marble  statuary,  green- 
Ijousos,  and  a  deer-park.  Near  the  mansion  is  a  beautiful  *  copy  (in 
bronze)  of  the  Amazon  and  Tiger,  at  the  Museum  in  Berlin.  About  3  M. 
beyond  is  ancient  Wethersfield,  settled  by  men  of  Wafcrtown,  Mass.,  in 
l^o').  At  163(3,  the  first  Conn,  legislature  conveneil  hero  declared  war 
against  the  Pcipiots.  The  oM  Webb  mansion,  near  the  Cong.  Church, 
Y.'as  Washington's  head-ipiarters,  and  here  frecpient  and  protracted  councils 
of  the  French  and  American  ofiicers  prepared  the  plans  which  ended  at 
York  town.  The  town  lias  long  been  noted  for  its  great  crops  of  onions. 
Siuc>3  1823,  the  State  Prison  has  been  <'stablished  licre. 

About  3  M.  S.  W.  of  file  city  i.s  Cedar  Grove  Cemetery,  on  a  bare  and 
lofty  hill  commanding  vii^ws  of  the  Queen  City  and  the  volley  of  the 
Conn.  Tiie  *  Beach  Memorial  is  a  beautiful  work  of  Itali^'n  art.  A  Ingh 
base,  surrounded  by  elegant  bas-reliefs,  supp  nis  a  vase,  which  is  sheltered 
by  a  tabernacle  in  red,  yellow,  and  white  marbles,  supported  by  column.s 
of  Scotch  granite.  The  Clark  Monument  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal 
bronze  Angel  of  the  Rcsurrecliou  (cast  in  Munich).  The  Russel  Monu- 
ment is  crowned  by  a  life-size  and  life-like  seated  statue,  Tlie  monument 
to  Col.  Samuel  Colt  (who  invented  tlie  revolving  pistol)  consists  of  a  lofty 
Egj'ptian  column  of  Scotch  granite,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  angel,  while 
on  tho  j'edestal  is  tlie  family  coat-of-arms  {a  colt  rampant,  with  a  broken 
.spear  in  his  mouth). 

Talcott  Mt.  is  about  0  M.  W.  The  estate  "Monte  Vi<l.-o  "  of  the  old  family 
of  Wadswortli  is  on  its  summit,  and  the  pretty  Gothic  villa  is  near  a  "deep,  cold, 
erystalliue  lake."  on  the  brow  of  the  mt.  From  a  neighboring  tower,  "you  liave 
a  glorious  *  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  into  the  ad.joi:iing  SL'ites  of 
Mass.  and  X.  V.  ;  the  whole  surrounded  by  an  impurjiled  outline  of  ints.  The 
Conn,  is  seen  sweeping  or.wanl  like  a  king,  through  its  fair  domain,  amid  the 
spircj  of  /lunierous  towns  and  villages,  while,  by  tlie  aid  of  a  gl.iss,  the  sails  of 


1  U)    Roaic  ::l 


HUSTON  VO  NEW  YOllK. 


1 

I 


i? 


.1 


l»Ji 


the  vessels  in  the  port  of  Hartford,  ami  tlie  movements  iii  the  btreets,  are  dis- 
tinctly visible.  '  (Mrs.  Sicournev.)  "The  i)eruliantie-»  of  tlie  licaiitiful  and 
f'rand  Hf(!nery  of  Slonte  Vidm  niai<e  it  (piitc  without  a  itarallil  in  America,  and 
I)rol)ably  witli  few  in  the  world."    (Prof.  Hu.mman.) 

AVAi,  //i"  (7  M.  S.)  presents  a  reniarlvalile  .junction  of  trap-rock  and  sandstone 
From  this  imiiit  is  on,joyc(l  a  ri<  li  view  over  tlie  river  vail  .  embracinj,'  Wctlicrs- 
llcid  and  its  intervales,  (Jlastcntmry  and  the  Lyine.Mts.,  N  irtl'ord,  and,  10  M.  to 
tlie  N.,  til"  Alt'-,  of  Tom  and  Hn]yoi:e.  Tlie  ride  to  Hoc  ky  'ill,  liy  the  rivcr-ruiid, 
is  a  favorite  one  with  the  Hartford  citizens. 

Other  excursions  iire  t<i  Tiniililc-l)own  Urook  (S  M.  W.),  to  K.  and  W.  Hartford, 
to  (ilastenlMiry,  and  o\<!r  Newin^^ton  Mt.  .S'.  Wimhrtr  {{)  },\.  N.)  w.is  a  dejiot  for 
I)risoners  durin}{  the  Hevoliition,  and  its  numerous  lines  oi  elms  were  jdanted  by 
British  and  Hessian  captives,  under  the  directinii  of  Lafayette.  Here  was  born 
John  Fitch,  inventor  and  builder  of  the  lir.st.  steanibitat  in  America.  He  ran  a 
steamer-line  on  the  Delaware  Iliver  from  ITSfi  to  17'."),  the  boat  making  8  aM.  an 
hour.  Fulton's  steamers,  the  "  Clermont "  and  the  "  Car  of  Neptune,"  were  j'lit 
on  the  Hudsitn  in  1807.  30  years  ayo  more  gin  was  made  in  E.  Windsor  than  in 
any  other  town  in  America. 


After  leaving 


Hivrtfonl,  tlie  line  runs  S.,  leaving  the  river,  past  Newing- 
ton  to  Berlin,  whence  branch  tracks  diverge  to  IMiddletnwn,  10  M.  on  the 
S.  E.,  and  New  Britain,  2.^  M.  on  the  N.  (see  Route  11).  Berlin  village 
(S.  E.  of  the  station)  was  for  scores  of  years  the  home  of  the  jieripatetic 
tin-pedlers  who  traversed  the  country  between  Mobile  and  Quebec.  1'lie 
manufacture  of  tin- ware  originated  here  about  1775,  and  is  still  carried 
on.  The  heroic  INIajor  Hart  was  born  here,  who,  at  Gen.  St.  Clair's  defeat 
on  the  Miami  River  (1791),  led  a  battalion  of  the  2tl  U.  S.  Infantry  (the 
rear-guard)  on  a  fearful  charge,  in  which  he  and  nine  tenths  of  his  men 
were  killed.  At  Tv  Berl'  '  are  the  .vorks  cf  the  American  Conugated 
Iron  Co.     Percival,  the  poet,  .vas  born  here  in  1795. 

Station,  Meriden  (Meriden  House),  a  bnsy  little  city  midway  between 
Hartford  and  New  Haven.  Near  the  City  Hall  (E.  of  the  track)  are  sev- 
eral churches,  and  some  neat  villas  crown  the  heights  beyond.  Tlie 
spacious  and  imposing  biiilding  of  the  State  Roform  School  is  ]iassed  liy 
the  train  just  before  reaching  the  station.  The  highway  to  the  N.  passes 
Mt.  Lamentation,  and  then  runs  through  a  narrow  pass  in  the  Blue  I\Its. 
cfilled  the  Cat  Hole,  1  M.  long.  Ice  is  found  near  this  deej)  glen  through- 
out the  year.  West  Peak,  3  M.  from  the  city,  coinmamls  a  view  extend- 
ing from  Hartford  to  New  Haven,  and  over  Long  Island  Soimd. 

The  Meriden  Britannia  Co.  has  6  large  buildings,  one  of  which  is  527x40  ft. 
1,000  hands  are  employed,  420  tons  of  nickel,  white  metal,  and  silver  are  iisid 
yearly,  and  $2,500,000  worth  of  wares  are  sent  out  every  year  to  all  ])arts  of  ihe 
World.  Ives,  Rutty,  &  Co.  make  4,000  tons  of  tin-waVe  yearly  ;  the  Meriden 
Cutlery  Co.  (the  lir.st  in  America)  eniiiloy4(i0  hands;  Wilcox  &  Co.  employ  oCO 
hands  in  making  halmorals,  hoo]is,  and  corsets  ;  and  the  Malleable  Iron  Co'  and 
the  Parker  yiiot-Gun  Co.  hav(!  works  here. 

On  the  great  lan<l  route  from  Boston  to  New  Haven,  Behdier  built  a  fortified 
tavern  here  in  ICCO.  Levi  S.  Ives.  Episeoi>al  Bishop  of  Xortli  Carolina  (1831-52), 
who  was  received  into  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  at  the  city  of  Rome  in  1852, 
was  a  native  of  Meriden. 

After  Yalesville  is  Wallingford  Station  (Beach  House,  an  elegant  sum- 
mer-house, formerly  the  home  of  ^I.  Y.  Beach,  proprietor  of  the  ''  N.  Y. 


>f 


Ml 


\ 


HUSTON   To   Al.iiANY,  kc.  Route  Hi*.     Ul 


•• 


en 


Fun";  tlie  ancient  Washington  House  was  bunied  in  May,  187"2).  Duven- 
]ort  preaclied  a  seiinon  at  tlie  fouiuling  of  this  town  (in  likYj)  IVoni  tin; 
text,  '•  My  beloved  hath  a  vineyard  in  a  very  fruitful  hill."  On  that 
fruitful  liill  the  village  is  built,  with  a  neat  town  hall,  a  costly  Episcopal 
churcli,  and  a  fine  niodern  school-house,  besides  several  neat  villas. 
Manufactures  of  German-silver  ware,  Albata  plate,  &c.,  are  carried  on  on 
the  plain.  The  Hanging  Hills  fonn  a  lofty  and  picturesque  scene  to  the 
W.  of  the  village.  .  W,  of  the  station  (j  M.)  is  a  branch  of  the  Oneida 
Coniiiiunity,  containing  about  .W  persons,  on  an  estate  of  2  -  300  acres. 
They  believe  in  the  jjower  of  the  New  Testament  doctrines  to  render  men 
morally  perfect,  and  all  tlu'ir  property  is  held  in  common.  The  object  of 
this  ndssion  colony  (whidi  receives  subsidies  from  Oneida)  is  to  pro])agate 
the  Onoida  tenets  in  New  England. 

The  line  follows  the  Quimiijiiac  Valley  to  N.  Haven.  Tliere  is  here  a 
Gothic  church  (Episcopal)  facing  the  Green,  near  which  is  the  house  where 
Dr.  Trumbull  tlie  historian  lived  for  HO  years,  and  wrote  4,000  sermons 
and  several  books.  North  Haven  makes  several  million  bricks  yearly. 
The  train  soon  passes  East  Rock  (on  the  r. ),  crosses  Mill  River,  and  enters 
New  Haven. 

New  Haven  to  New  York,  see  Route  8. 

22.  Boston  to  Albany,  Saratoga,  and  the  West. 

\'ia  llie  BDston  lui'i  Alliany  Railroad,  Rens»elaer  and  Saratoga  il.  11.,  and  New 
York  Central  11.  H.  Huston  to  Allumv,  202  M.  Fare,  $5.80.  Boston  to  Saratoga, 
240  M. 

This  is  the  favorite  route  nuiniug  H'.  from  Boston,  and  will  livng  hold  tliis  jtoal 
tion,  since  tlie  principal  iiilimd  i-Qh-s  of  Mas&iclmsetts  an'  on  its  lino.  Wliell  ItH 
coMstrui'tion  was  tirst  talked,  of,  ihr  "  Bos-t^m  CouritT  "  derided  the  scheme,  saving 
that  it  could  1k'  built  onlj-  sitt  an  "  expense  luiilc  less  than  the  market  value  of  the 
whole  territory  of  Mas.s.t  knjsetts,  and  which,  it  i)ractic:ihle,  every  person  of  coni- 
inon-sense  knows  wouW  >>«■  as  useless  as  n  militiad  from  Bost<ni  to  the  moon." 
Yet  the  W(uk  went  on,  th<' road  was  comftleted  to  Worcester  in  ISS,'),  to  S{)nng- 
liel>l  in  18:iL>,  and  to  All«ny  in  1^42.  The  admimWle  aj)pointmonts  and  organizii- 
tion  of  this  route,  and  its  i.-uinunity  frf>m  accidents,  have  given  it  a  wide  reputa- 
tion and  an  extensive  patrouge. 

The  Station  in  Boston  is  on  tb»e  comer  of  Beach  and  Lincoln  Sts.  (PI. 
85), 

After  emerging  from  the  city,  the  line  crosses  the  Providence  Railroaul 
(Route  8)  on  the  Back  Bay  lands,  and  passes  the  junction  of  the  Woon- 
.socket  Railroad  (2  M.  out).  A  fine  panoramic  view  is  gained  by  a  back- 
wani  glance  from  the  windows  on  the  r.  of  the  car,  embracing  the  ancient 
aca.iemic  city  of  Cambridge,  with  the  liuights  of  Somerville  and  Charles- 
town,  while  much  of  Boston  is  visible  to  the  rear. 

For  the  itinerary  between  Boston  and  Sj>ringfield,  see  Route  21. 

The  line  crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a  long  bridge  just  after  leav- 
ing Springfield,  and  tVdlows  the  valley  of  the  Agawam  River  past  W. 


t 


142    Route  23.         THE  BERKSIIIUE  HILLS. 

Sprinpffifilcl  Station  (a  niannfacturiiig  village;  Agawam  Hole!)  to  West- 
field  (Willniaith  lloiihc,  Wcstlicjil  Houst-).  TIii'  Imliaii  ilomaiu  of  Woio- 
noco  was  settled  })y  the  Engjisli  in  lt»«50,  and  called  Streaiulield,  from 
the  a>)iindanee  of  its  waters,  liut  later,  the  Legislature  named  it  Westfield, 
as  the  most  '  -terly  of  the  settlements.  Late  in  King  Pliilii)'s  W.'.r,  the 
colonial  council  ordered  that  this,  and  all  the  other  valley  towns,  r.hould 
be  evacinited,  and  that  their  inhal)itants  sliould  concentrate  at  Springfield 
and  ILadley.  An  angry  refusid  was  returne(l,  and  the  towns  negotiated 
for  union  with  Conn,  until  the  ol)noxious  edict  was  repealed.  Westlield 
built  a  fort  and  stood  her  ground.  At  j)resent  it  is  a  busy  village,  where 
32  iirms  make  2,rj00,0(l()  whii)s  a  year,  and  8-12,000,000  cigars  are  an- 
nually made.  The  Htute  Xormnl  School  located  here  has  100-  200  stu- 
dents, and  is  of  high  reputation.  Several  churches  front  on  the  Green, 
Avhich  is  adorned  by  a  monument  by  which  "  Westlield  honors  the 
memory  of  her  sons  who  have  fallen  in  defence  of  Liberty,  Union,  ami 
Independence,  18(Jl  to  ISGo."  The  }>edestal  bears  the  arms  of  the  State 
and  of  the  Union,  and  a  list  of  the  slain,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  bronze 
soldier,  of  heroic  size.  The  village  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley  by  the 
Westlield  Uiver,  A  I\I.  S.  of  the  station.  The  New  Haven  and  North- 
amiiton  Kailioad  crosses  the  line  at  this  point. 

The  line  now  runs  up  the  valley  of  the  Westfield  lliver,  passing 
Pochassic  Hill  and  Mt.  Tekoa  on  the  r.,  and  stoj»s  at  Russell  (Russell 
House),  in  a  mountainous  town.  Station,  Huntington  and  Chester,  after 
which  the  line  jiasses  into  Berkshire  County  (see  Route  'I'A).  Beyond  the 
borders  of  iJi  rksliire  and  of  IMaHsacJinselts  the  line  enters  New  York  State, 
and  cnnnects  at  Chat  hum  with  the  Hudson  and  Boston  \\.  it.  and  the 
Harlem  R.  11.  From  Chatham,  It  riniN  N.  W,,  through  Kinderhook  and 
Behodack,  In  (IruenbuHli,  and  thence  crossing  the  JIudHon  on  anoble  briilge, 
enters  the  city  of  Albany. 

Connei'tiouH  aiv  here  made  with  the  NeW  Vtul<  Cellthd  l(.  tt.  fo/  the  West,  mA 
Willi  other  vtmtes  for  >ii  \v  Yi>rU,  SmatoHU  Siirings,  ic.  Also  witli  llic  ilmlisoji 
River  boats.  Fioni  Albjuiv  to  I'tica,  '.tu  M.  ;  to  Rome,  lOit  M.  :  to  Hvrttciise,  J47 
M.  ;  to  RocliesLcr,  25:)  M.  ; 'to  Rullhio,  2(i7  M.  ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  80'.  M.  ;  to  De- 
troit, bM  M.  ;  to  Chjt  iiu'>.  fei^D  !^b  These  distances  are  calcidated  on  the  N.  Y. 
Central  R.  R.,  ami  tlii'  l.aUo  Shore  and  Mirliigaii  fSoiitlicrn  I{.  R.  (via  Toledo  and 
t'l(  Vfliiud^  wliicli  il  iiicetH  at  Hiillalo.  Ry  llic  same  route  and  tlu  shortest  lines 
beyond,  the  whole  distance  from  lioston  to  Niagara  Falls  is  ."<(>7  M.  :  to  (."Inciao, 
1,022  M.  ;  to  at.  Louis,  1,:}02  M.  ;  to  Umaha,  i.Olu  M.  ;  to  (San  Franejiico,  3,42'^  M. 


f 


If 


23.  Tlie  Berkshire  Hills. 

Tills  district  will  he  considered  in  connection  with  its  railway  system,  wliose 
various  lines  will  be  treated  of  independently  C)f  their  eonneetiuns  b*'youd  ttte 
county  limits. 

Tlie  Rerkshire  ilills  form  a  l»eautif'iil  and  i)i('turesqiie  district  of  mountains  and 
laUes,  ahuundiiig  in  (diarms  lor  tlie  lover  of  nature.  Thousands  (»f  city  jieople 
lloek  hither  eveiy  summer,  and  rest  and  relax  amid  sei^nes  so  peaeefid  and  attrac- 
tive.    The  best  time   for  a  visit  here  is  in  Oetolicr,  "  when  the  holiday  h'U!*  hft 


THE   liEKKHHIRE  HILLS. 


B-utcSd.     \\?> 


u 


tlielr  wivatlieJ  ami  crowned  Iii'uIh  in  th**  i'BH|)lc'Hlt>nt  days  of  nutunin."  S;iy!4 
IJcfi'lier  of  tliis  season  in  Hiiksiiiic,  "  ILivc  llic  evi-nin.;  tlninls,  snlliisc'l  \vilh 
8un.-<ft,  (lioppi'd  down  and  iM-conif  fixed  into  hoHiI  rornis?  Ilavi-  tli'-  lainhows 
tiiat  followed  antninn  htonns  tade<l  upon  lliends.,  and  ieCt  fiieir  luantltM  tlien-? 
What  a  nii:-,'lity  diorns  of  colors  do  the  trees  roll  down  llii'  \alley.s,  n^i  tlie  hill- 
sides, and  over  tlie  nits. 

"  From  S.disl>ni7  to  Williani.stown  and  then  to  Rcnnin^fton  in  Vormnnt,  thero 
Btretelu'8  a  rounty  of  valleys,  lake.s.  and  nits.,  that  is  y(>t  to  lie  as  celebrated  as 
the  lake-district  o|'  Kn;,djinif.  or  tlie  hill-conntry  of  I'desiine." 

Another  writer  .say.s  ;  "  IJerkshire  in  a  rej^'ion  of  hill  and  valley,  nit.  and  lakp, 
boantifnl  rivers  and  laiiKliin'..;  tii1>oks.  -the  very  riednioiitof  America."  Godfrey 
CJreylock  naively  writes,  "Somel.ody  li.is  c.illed  Berkshire  the  I'iediiiont  of  Anier- 
ici.  I  do  not  know  liow  just  the  a]ipeIlation  may  l»e,  but  1  <lo  know  that  if 
riediiioiit  can  rightly  l)e  called  the  lU-rkshire  of  Kurope,  it  must  In;  a  very  de- 
li^rhtful  re'.,'ion." 

The  njute  from  Hostoii  to  Central  Herksliire  is  by  the  IJoston  and  Albany  U.  R. 
Distance  to  I'ittslidd,  l.".l  M.  ;   f.iiv, '^l. :?.'.. 

The  route  from  New  York  to  Herksliire  is  by  tin'  Ifonsati>nic  11.  U.  Distance 
to  i'itlslield  l(j<3  M.     I'lttslield  is  r.ii  M.  fioni  Sp'rini^licld  and  'A  .M.  from  Albany. 

"That  section  of  the  Western  R.  R.  wliich  traverses  the  wild  liills  of 
Berkshire  is  a  work  of  ininiense  labor,  and  a  wotitlerful  achievement  of 
art.  After  leaviu}.^  the  wide  nieadow.s  of  tin;  Conn.,  baskinj^'  in  their  rich 
inheritance  of  alluvial  soil  and  iininipc<led  .snnsliine,  you  wind  through 
the  narrow  valleys  of  the  Westlield  River,  with  masses  of  mt.s.  before 
you,  and  woodland  heights  crowdini?  in  upon  you,  so  that  at  every  piitT 
of  the  engine  the  passage  visibly  contracts.  The  Alpine  character  of  the 
rivej'  strikes  yon.  At  Chester  you  begin  your  ascent  of  80  ft.  in  a  mile 
for  13  M.  The  stream  between  you  and  the  jirecipitous  hillside,  cramped 
into  its  rocky  bed,  is  the  Pontoosne,  which  leaps  down  jirccipices,  nms 
forth  laughing  in  the  <limpling  sunsliine,  and  then,  shy  as  a  mountain 
nymph,  it  dodges  behind  a  knotty  copse  of  evergreen.  In  approaching 
the  summitdevel  you  travel  bridges  built  a  hundred  feet  above  other 
mountain  streams,  tearing  along  tlieir  deep-worn  beds  ;  and  at  the  'deep 
cut'  your  passage  is  hewn  through  .solid  rocks,  who.se  mighty  walls  frown 
over  you." 

"  We  liave  entered  Ikrkshire  by  a  road  far  .superior  to  the  Appian  Way. 
On  every  side  are  rich  valleys  and  smiling  hillsides,  and  deep  set  in  their 
liollows  lovely  lakes  sparkle  iik(.'  gems."    (Miss  Skdowick.) 

While  staging  through  this  part  of  Berkshire,  early  in  this  century, 
Caj/tain  Marryatt,  the  English  novelist,  derided  the  madness  of  "certain 
cru//  »jiirits  who  have  conceived  the  idea  of  constructing  a  railroad 
i^r(j>\\'^\  this  savage  region." 

Ff'/rii  Tekoa  Mt.  to  Wasliingtoji  Summit  the  track  rises  1,211  ft.,  or  82 
i"t.  in  A  fffih:  in  sjontie  Krtig  stretches.  The  first  station  is  Ikchet,  in  the  N. 
of  a  large  «<y«irn  ai^oumling  in  lakes,  from  one  of  which  flows  Farmington 
Biver,  which  «iakt!»glad  so  niuch  of  Northern  CVjuii.  10  M.  S.  of  Becket 
l#t«tk*n  is  Otis  (two  inns),  with  the  island-studded  Great  Lake.  Station, 
Washinrftr.n^  mwmft  the  hills  whic^h  the  Indiana  called  Tukonick.  The 
village  ii  S.  of  the  station  in  a  pretty  valley.     Station,  Jlinsdale,  in  a 


141       JinUlctS, 


Till:   liKKKSIllltK   HILLS. 


lar^'f  town  (so  nainetl  in  lu)!jor  of  its  first  inistor)  wliidi  is  "  more  ploasing 
to  tlie  lover  <>!'  fine  inoiiiitaiii  scenery,  exhilaialiii^  Nreezes,  and  crystal 
fountains,  than  to  the  fanner  in  quest  of  fortune."  The  nits,  here  recede 
from  the  lin(!  of  the  (r.-^k,  and  the  tall  hills  of  Peru  are  seen  on  the  E. 
(r. ).  Station,  Ikilton  (I'llagh'  Hotel),  originally  named  Dale-town,  which 
has  large  ]>rip('r-factori('s.  From  D;ilton  a  highway  leads  to  Windsor 
(rievcIaiKl  House)  7  M.  X.  K.,  the  Indian  "  OuMliiukaniaug,"  a  loftily 
situated  village  in  a  town  ricrh  in  Saxony  and  Meiino  sheep,  and  "noted 
for  the  longevity  of  its  inhahitants."  Ahout  3  M.  from  Dalton,  on  the 
Windsor  road,  an;  the  Wahconah  Falls,  where  a  n»t.  stream  falls  in  3  leaj»H 
over  an  80-ft.  clilf  of  gray  nnirble.  (»  M.  beyond  Halton  the  train  ])asse.s 
Silver  Lake,  and  stops  at  the  costly  and  handsome  station  in  Fittsfield. 

Ilotoltt*  .NnuTicaii  House,  on  tlie  Main  St.,  120  K'lests,  at  ;?lo-ly,0()  h 
w<'ek  ;  liiirlciiiU  floiise,  opjinsite  tlie  >^itioii,  ;;«!'- K'.(K)  a  Week,  (iuod  restau- 
rant in  llie  station. 

i'itttilield  is  a  Iteiiutiful  city  of  11,113  inlial)itants,  and  is  the  centre  and 
tajiital  of  v?(!rkshire  County.  Tt  was  settled  al)()ut  the  middle  of  the  last 
fcutury  (1752)  on  the  Indian  domain  of  I'ontoosuc,  and  in  1761  it  re- 
ceived its  present  ?iame,  in  honor  of  William  Pitt,  the  English  statesman 
and  friend  of  America. 

• 

In  1814  the  Berksliire  .Iiiliilee  wn;^  In  M  liere.  enlliu^;  in  tliniisnnds  of  tlie  sons  of 
the  loiuity  lidiii  all  iiiiitsoi'  tin  I'nion  ;  and  on  Sept.  lil,  1K7:,',  tlie  largest  nnilti- 
liKJi'  ever  seen  in  Berkshire  ;i;ilhereil  heic  at  the  dedieation  ol'  the  Soldiers' 
Monument.  At  sunrise  the  eln.icli  hells  ran^,  and  '.'-7  j.'uns  were  fireW,  ami  the 
])i-oeesHion  included  8  hands  ol'  music,  detaeliuienl..  Imni  !•  veteran  regiments,  the 
•Jd  Mass.  Militia  reg.,  and  '2  C'oiiiiiiainleries  ot  kiii^dit.i  Teiiiidar.  U.  W.  Curtis 
was  the  orator  of  the  day.  "The  scldieis'  niomiuants  of  the  late  war,  hai>iiily 
arising  in  ev<  ry  town  and  in  every  village,  with  the  heantiliil  rites  of  Decoration 
Day,  hallowiii.n  the  iiienmry  of  lieitu-;,  are  like  the  sining  of  liherty,  flowing 
everywhere  in  the  land."  The  nu'miiiiciit  enusisls  of  ;i  massive  jiedestal  on  whieli 
is  a  bron/e  statue  of  a  lithe  young  soldier  in  latigue  uniform,  .standing  at  rest, 
with  liis  left  hand  holding  a  llag-statf,  Jind  the  ligjil  liaiid  high  up  in  the  fohln  of 
t'le  flag.  This  "Color-!;,  .iirr  "  was  designed  l>y  I.aiint  Thompson,  and  cast  from 
tiie  metal  <if  fj  cannon  given  by  Congress  for  the  inn-pose.  The  pedestal  contains 
the  names  of  5  oflleers  and  ixi'iueu  who  died  in  the  held,  out  uf  1,'J.jU  who  enlisted 
at  Pittstield. 

"  A  voice  from  hps  wlioroon  the  ronl  fmm  Frecildin'R  shriiii'  luith  been, 
'riirillcd,  us  l)iit  yesterdny,  tlic  hearts  iti  Hrrkshiro's  Miiuntniii  men  ; 
Tlu-  crher.s  of  tluit  Knlciun  voice  iirc;  sielly  liiicniiig  still 
111  hII  our  sunny  vnllej-s,  on  every  wind-HWept  liill. 

And  8nn<ly  narnstnl)lo  rose  up,  wet  with  the  salt  sea  sprny  ; 

And  Mii.stol  .sent  lier  unsweriiiL'  shout  down  XiiiTopiinsott  Daj'  ; 

Aloin,'  till'  lirond  Connectient  old  Ilninph-n  felt  the  tlirill. 

And  tlie  eluei-  of  liainpshire  .s  woodmen  swept  down  from  Holyok©  HiU. 

AVj  .ifttrr-hiint  in  mir  hnrdrrs  —  iiu  pinili  mi  our  utriiiul  ! 
Nofi-tter»  in  l/ic  Bin/  Sluti:  —  nit  flave  ii/hdi  our  hind  .'" 

Whittier, 

The  nionument  stands  in  the  Park,  a  groon  in  the  midst  of  the  city, 
which  is  called  the  heart  of  Berkshire. 

Here,  in  the  centre  of  an  elliptical  line  of  trees,  stood  the  Old  Elm, 
with  its  \M  ft.  of  smooth  shaft,  and  concentric  ring.s  representing  340  years 
of  growth.     After  being  twice  thunder-smitten,  the  Old  Elm  became  un- 


i  fc- 


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THE   UERK8I1IUE   HILLS.         Route  *S.     U'j 

safe,  and  was  taktii  downj  in  lSt54,  aniil  the  mourning  of  tli<  county.  On 
one  side  of  the  Park  is  the  C'origregiu  iojial  Cliunh  (of  Hto!ie),  w)u<re  !)»•, 
John  Todd  (rt  powerful  and  prolific  writer)  preached,  ]hl2-70.  Next  to 
it  is  St.  Stcplicn's  llpi.soi  j  '  T'lmn  h.  At  the  end  of  tin-  Tark  is  the 
elf'cjant  wliitf  niarlilo  ♦Court  House,  whifh,  tofjcther  with  tin-  Jail  (in 
(\;iotlier  street),  cost  $40(>,*K)().  Nfar  the  Court,  Hnusi-,  uud  fronting  the 
Park,  is  the  building  of  the  Berkshire  A thenaMiin,  containing  u  tine  library 
and  collections  of  Iwal  ouriositie.s.  On  the  comer  of  North  and  West  Sts. , 
near  the  Park,  is  the  nol)!.-  building  of  tlu!  Herk.sh'i'j  Life  Insurance  Co. 
On  the  main  street  are  .some  W\w  biisiues.s  buildings,  and  beyond  tho 
American  House  is  tip,'  small  but  handsome  marble  Catheilral  of  St. 
Josi^ph.  The  French  residents  have,  also,  a  (^atludic  Church  for  their 
hundred  families,  and  there  is  also  n  Oerin.m  Lutheran  Chureh.  Beyond 
St,  Joseph's  is  the  Maplewood  Institute  (for  young  ladies),  '*  whose  gracf'- 
ful  chap<l,  g\/i)nasium,  and  half  ivy-covered  tlwiUings  gleam  while 
through  groves  and  avenues  of  fanu'd  attractiveness."  The  Si cingside 
S(.'hool  (lur  boys)  is  on  the  borders  of  Pittsliild,  in  pleasant  grounds.  At 
one  end  of  tlie  main  street  is  ths  buihiing  of  the  BerkJiire  Me<lical  Justi- 
tute,  established  in  1821  as  an  appanage  of  Williams  College,  but  long 
ago  discontinued.  The  Irinisfallen  Greenhoiiso  (5(X)  ft.  long)  has  a  high 
reputation,  and  in  tin-  W.  suburb  is  the  Pittstiekl  Pleasure  I'a'k,  with  a 
race-course,  games  &c.  The  city  is  situated  on  a  plateau  1.000-1,200 
ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surroimded  by  loflv  hills,  the  Taconics  on  the  W. 
and  the  Hoosacs  on  the  E.  Beaiitiful  villas  .abound  in  the  suburban 
streets,  and  extensive  manufactures  of  cotton  ami  woollen  cloths,  lire- 
arms,  and  cars  furnish  emi>loynn'nt  for  the  foreign  population.  The 
eity  is  su] ''litd  with  watir  from  Lake  Ashley,  a  little  n.m.antic  loch 
which  lies  upon  the  summit  of  Washington  Ml.  (l.SOO  ft.  high),  7  M.  to 
the  S.  E.  Near  this  lake  is  West  Pond,  from  which  Roaring  iJrook  flow* 
down  through  Tories'  Gorge  to  the  Housatonii , 

Lake  Onota  (»;x'{  acres)  is  a1)out  J  M.  W.  of  Pittsfield.  From  the  hill 
where  Ashley's  Fort  stood,  a  line  view  is  enjoyed,  but  Ihe  best  i)rospect  in 
from  a  long  j>oini  running  from  the  N.  shore,  to  which  locality  belongs  the 
legend  of  "  The  White  Deer  of  Onota." 

Pontoosuc  Lake,  "  the  haunt  of  the  winter  deer  "(.575 .acres),  is  3-4  M. 
X.  of  Pittsfield,  on  the  road  to  Williamstown  (20  M.). 

Berry  Pond  is  to  tlie  N.  W.  in  Ilanciock.  "Berry  Pond  dues  not  derive  iU 
iiauie  Iroiii  the  ^ir.iwberries,  bLieivbcrrie-i,  uu't  raspberriea,  wliieli  by  tlieir  ubun- 
dane.j  in  the  vicinity  wutihl  .justify  the  appellation,  but  from  an  obscure,  stout- 
hearted man  who  once  >1  welt  ui)()n  its  bonier,  and  wrunj,' subsistence  for  a  large 
family  of  ^'irla  out  of  the  niar^jin  of  its  rooliy  chalice.  Nothing  can  exceed  the 
beauty  ot  this  pond.  Its  margin  is  goinetimes  a  beach  of  silvery  sand,  strewn 
with  tjlocks  of  snowy  (luariz  and  delicate,  tilirous  mica  ;  aj^ain  grassy  and  green  to 
the  water's  edge;  and  yet  again  friiigeil  with  li>ng  eyelashes  of  birch  and  hazel- 
trees,  that  dreamily  gaze  at  their  nUction  in  the  mirror."    (Taconic.) 

South  Mountaiii  is  2-3  M.  S.  of  Pittsflel'l,     From  ita  S.  summit  Greylock 

7  J 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSBO 

(716)  872-4503 


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UG    Route  23.         THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


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is  seen  in  the  N.,  "Mount  Oceola  and  Porrj-'s  Poalc  in  the  W.,  tlie  Lnnox  Mt.  in  the 
K.,  and  llie  Mts.  of  Wushinyton  in  tlie  E.  The  lity  is  close  at  liand  in  tlie  N.  with 
Lake  «)ii()ta  at  its  side.  Xean-r  is  Mflvillc  liatcc,  or  Lilly  Bowl,  near  Lilly 
Oiic,  so  named  from  an  old  Mey  Menilies  of  a  herniitess  named  Lilly,  who  onre 
livcil  in  the  valley. 

In  the  mts.  N.  W.  of  rittsficld,  and  distant  several  miles,  are  fome  ronianlii^ 
pfiiiits.  Below  Mt.  IIomwcc  is  the  I'ldiniscd  Land,  a  name  !L,'iven  with  ^;rini  New 
Ln.uland  liumor  to  a  tract  of  lan<l  lor  which  ^'raiits  were  lonj;  itromiscd  and 
lonL:erdcli-.yed.  On  its  W.  summit  is  a  jiretty  lakelet  whence  J^uln  (."jie  (or  valley) 
m;iy  he  dcscemhid  to  Lula  tJascath',  "  a  I'oam-w'hite  c(jlnmn  which  finds  its  base  in  a 
cin-ular  jiool  of  i)lack  and  ^dossy  surface,  overhung,'  l»y  a  gray  old  huulder,  and  by 
masses  of  tangled  foliiige."  >S.  (»f  the  i'romisetl  Land  is  the  Ujie  of  Promise,  the 
7iear(-st  (thoiiKh  arduous)  jiath  to  Berry  Bond.  'I'hen  conies  Arhnxus  Hill  and 
Oiie,  which  are  covered  with  arbutus  in  May,  and  beyond  them  is  Old  Tower  Hill, 
with  a  tower  whiidi  commands  a  1)n)ad  view. 

S.  of  the  J.,ehanon  load  (which  runs  throujrh  Lilly  Ope)  is  Doll  Mt.,  wliere  the 
Sliakers  formerly  worshiiiped,  and  wliieli  tliey  called  Mt.  Zion.  .Silver  Lake  is  in 
the  K.  environs,  and  Sylvan  Lake  is  2-3  M.  L.  of  the  city.  The  laij^er  lakes  here- 
abouts arc  itrolific!  in  ]iickercl,  but  the  trout  Ikivc  been  nearly  exterminated. 

O.  Wendell  Holmes  lonj,'  resided  at  a  villa  2  M.  N.  of  the  <ity,  on  a  small  fami 
remaining  from  'J4,(i0l)  acres  purchased  'uy  hit;  gnuidlather  'n  17"."i.  Near  him 
lived  Herman  Melville,  the  rover,  and  author  of  Kea-novels.  "  White  Jacket," 
"Moby  Uiek,"  and  other  works  were  written  here,  where  he  resided  l.soO-GO. 

William  Allen,  1).  U.,  the  pastoi,  poet,  an<l  biofirajiher  (1^20  -.'J9  Pres.  of  Bowdoin 
College),  was  born  at  PittslieM  in  17S4.  William  Jlillcrwas  boni  here  in  1781.  In 
1S33  he  begrn  to  harangue  tin;  pe(*ple  in  dillerent  cities,  ]'roiihesying  the  coming 
of  the  millennium  in  18i;$.  He  built  up  a  large  sect,  which  fell  to  pieces  when  the 
appointed  day  passed  and  was  .^een  to  lie  like  other  days. 

Nef.r  the  station  of  itichmoiid  are  the  remarkable  geological  phenomena  of 
B'<'hinond  Valley,  consisting  of  seven  jiarallel  lines  of  boulders,  stretching  across 
til.  valley  from  Perry's  IVak  lo  Lenox  Mt,  in  a  S.  E.  direction.  Thii;  feature  was 
carefully  studied  by  Sir  Charles  LytP  (in  two  visits),  and  is  mai)pedand  desciibefi 
ill.  his  "  Antiquity  of  Man."     I'erry's  Peak  is  famed  for  its  superb  over-vi<!W. 

To  New  Lebanon  Springs  is  a  favorite  excursion  from  Pittsfield.     By 
tlie  highway  the  distance  is  12-15  M.  ;  the  r.ailroad  route  is  circuitoi:s, 
being  by  the  Albany  luie  to  Chatham,  and  thence  up  the  Harlem  Ex 
tension  R.  R. 

Hotel.— Columbia  Hull,  a  fashion.ible  and  elegant  summer-house. 

The  thermal  springs  at  New  Lebanon  liave  won  an  excellent  reputation 

for  their  efficacy  in  diseases  of  the  skin  and  liver.     The  flow  of  the  waters 

is  very  large,  and  its  temperature  is  about  73\     There  are  many  line 

<lrives  and  walks  in  this  vicinity,  the  favorite  of  which  is  to  the  Shaker 

village,  about  2  M.  tlistant. 

The  Shakers  originated  from  a  French  sect  wliich  came  to  England  in  1706,  and 
Ann  Lee,  of  Manchester,  the  daughter  of  a  blacksmith  and  the  wife  of  a  black- 
tinith,  joined  them  in  1758.  In  1770,  after  emerging  from  a  madhouse  where  she 
was  "ontlned  for  reviling  matrimony,  she  annoiuieed,  "  I  am  Ann,  the  Word,"  and 
soon  after  came  to  America,  and  was  made  the  "Spiritual  Head  "  of  the  sect.  In 
1780  she  produced  a  revival  at  New  Lebanon,  and  converted  many  to  Shakerism, 
Bt>oii  after  which  the  sect  established  its  head-quaiteis  there,  and  in  1?95  accepted 
the  commonwealth  covenant.  She  claimed  the  jiower  of  working  miracles,  and 
held  thai  'Jhrist's  coming  was  not  the  fulfilment  or  "the  desire  of  all  nations,  but 
that  the  seccmd  Divine  advent  must  naturally  be  manifested  in  that  particular 
ol-jeet,  to  wit,  woman,  whicli  is  eminently  tlie  desire  of  all  nations."  Motlier 
Anil  made  New  Lebanon  "the  capital  of  the  Shaker  world,  the  rural  Vatican 
vhich  claims  a  more  desjiotic  sway  ov<'r  the  mind  of  man  than  ever  the  Roman 
Pontifl' assumed. "  On  her  death  a  peculiai  hierardiy  assumed  the  government. 
The  First  Elder,  tlio  successor  of  Mother  Ann,  aiipoiuts  the  second  elder,  and  the 


»  % 


« 


Mt.  in  tlie 

:\\ii  N.  tvith 

near  Lilly 

who  once 

{'.  loiiijinlii' 
grim  Now 
iiuiscil  iind 
•  (or  valley) 
its  base  in  a 
kr,  and  by 
ronii.se,  the 
IS  Hill  and 
rower  Hill, 

wliere  the 
r  Lake  is  in 

lakes  herc- 
lated . 
sni.ill  farm 
Near  him 
ite  Jacket," 
s.0-00. 
of  Rowdoin 
in  1781.  In 
the  coming 
us  when  the 

n  omen  a  of 
hini,'  across 
feature  was 
d  descriliefi 
view. 

fieia.  By 
ircuitous, 
irlem  Ex 


)use. 

^e})iitation 
the  waters 
many  fine 
le  Shaker 


n  1706,  and 
of  a  black- 
■  where  she 
•Vord,"  and 
le  sect.  In 
Shakerism, 
9;>  accepted 
iracles,  and 
lations,  but 
:  particular 
'  Mother 
iral  Vatican 
the  Roman 
ovornment. 
ler,  and  the 


'ii. 


THE   REllKSIIIRE  HILLS.         Rtmte  23.     117 

first  and  second  elilress.  Tliese  four,  called  the  "Holy  Lead,"  romnln  ser-luded 
in  the  church  at  Lebanon,  and  appoint  sabordii?atc  clerj^-.  ini'ludini,'  oiit>  elder  ia 
eai'li  family.  Thfir  Scriptures  arc.  contained  in  the  "  Holy  f/iws  "  and  Order 
15  lok,  which  are  claimed  as  works  of  iiisjiir  itinn,  and  as  jiartiy  di.tatcd  by  the 
J{»'cordin,%'  .Vn;.;el,  .dthoiejn  they  rnav  be  .lincnded  or  lescinded  by  tlie  Holy  Lead. 
U-'like  otlier  .sects,  the  Siialieis  claim  that  men  may  .join  tlicir  clnir.-li  afterdcath, 
and  amoiiK  other  illustrious  posthumou-i  mcndiers,  they  count  Washin<.jt(»n, 
Lafayette,  Napoleon,  Tamerlane,  and  l'oc,ahonta.s.  ■  l}y  fr  i^ality  and  imlustry 
tiu-y  give  us  many  useful  thing's,  but  they<lo  not  prodinx  wh.it  the  Uepnblic  most 
tiecds,  —  men  and  women."  * 

The  .seet  has  been  declining,'  since  the  death  of  its  great  hearl  and  her  disciplo<», 
bci-anse  it  has  nn  jiDwcr;  of  internal  ih;vclopment.  Tliere  are  matiy  Hhaker  vil- 
lages in  the  N.  .\tlantic  .SUxtcs,  but  the  community  at  New  Lebanon  has  dwindled 
to  2  I-  ;!  1  members. 

:'.  .M.  S.  W.  of  rittslield  (by  R  H.)  is  a  Shaker  village,  near  Riihmond  Pond, 
and  a  little  way  to  the  X.  of  it  is  a  mountain  (in  Ham-ock)  wliere  the  d(!votoes  or 
this  faith  formerly  held  tiieir  weird  meetiui^.  Tlieir  tradition  stito-4  that  Iktc  on 
J!  I.  Sinai,  tlie  Sh.akers  hunted  Satan  throughout  a  long  snmm-r  night,  and  finally 
klili'd  ami  buried  him.  Over  his  grave,  to  this  day,  Wasiiington  anl  Lafayetle 
keep  guard,  ninunted  on  white  horses,  ami  are  sci-'ti  on  summer  nights  by  tho 
faitluui  who  chance  to  pass  their  ancient  shrine. 

From  Pitt.sfiekl  the  Ilousatouic  R.  P..  runs  tlirough  Southern  Berkshire. 
*' Of  all  the  railroads  near  New  York  none  can  compare,  for  l)eauLy  of 
Bcencry,  with  the  Ilousatonic  from  Xewtowu  to  Pittstielil,  but  especially 
from  New  Milford  to  Lenox."  (Bi:echi:r.)  Fredrika  Bremer  spoak.s  of 
'■"  the  wonderfully  picturesque  and  sometimes  .splendidly  gloomy  scenery  " 
along  the  line  of  this  railroad.  By  this  route  it  is  S  M.  to  Lenox  Station 
(nas.siug  Soutli  Mt.  on  the  r. ),  from  wliich  stages  ascend  to  the  village  in 
2  ^L     By  a  fine  carriage  road  it  is  G  M.  S.  of  Pittsiield. 

Hotels.  Curtis's  Hotel  accommodates  80 -100  gi.ests  at  s^-LOOadny.  with  con- 
siderable reductions  for  a  long  stay.  There  arc  sevei-al  large  sumnier  boarding- 
liouses  liere  (Mrs  Flint's,  Mre.  Clark's,  &c.),  more  quiet  and  inc^cpensive  than  tho 
liotel,  and  some  of  them  better  situated. 

"  Lienox,  known  for  the  singular  purity  and  exhilarating  effects  of  its  air,  and 
for  the  beauty  of  its  mountain  scenery.  If  one  sjicnds  July  or  October  in  Lenov, 
he  will  liardly  seek  annther  home  for  tiie  smnuijr.  The.  ciuirch  .stands  upon  the 
liighest  point  in  the  village,  an<l  if,  in  summer,  one  st.amls  in  the  door  and  gazes 
upon  the  vast  panorama,  he  might,  without  half  the  I'salmi;;t's  devotion,  i)refop 
to  stiuid  in  the  door  of  the  Lord's  house  to  a  dwelling  in  tent,  tabernacle,  or  man- 
sion." So  says  lieecher,  wlioso  "Star  Papers"  were  written  during  liis'sunnner 
visits  to  Lenox,  in  a  hou.se  wdii(dj  stood  near  the  site  now  occu[tied  by  Gen.  llath- 
V one's  mansion. 

Fredrika  Bremer  wrote,  "The  country  .around  Lenox  is  romantically  lovely, 
uisjiircd  with  wood-covered  hills  and  the  ]irettiest  little  lake.i." 

Tliis  "gem  among  the  mountains  "  (Silum.vn)  was  settled  in  1750,  and 
received  tlie  family  name  of  the  Duke  of  Taehmond.  It  is  situated  on  a 
high  hill,  and  contains  the  old  Court  IIoii.sc  (which  nov,  luis  a  library  and 
reading  room)  and  numerous  villas  pertaining  to  gentlemen  of  Eos'.on  and 
New  Vo.k.  Fanny  Kemble  (Butler)  long  resided  here,  and  wished  to  ba 
buried  in  the  graveyard  on  the  hill,  saying,  "  I  will  not  rise  to  trouble 
any  one  if  they  will  let  mo  sleep  here.  I  will  only  ask  to  bo  permitted, 
once  in  a  while,  to  raise  my  head  and  look  out  upon  this  glorious  scene  "  j 

»  Much  of  the  forcpolnp  account  hr..s  horn  condensed  from  Ilwlfrhts  Travels.  The  editor 
doe",  uot  know  whether  tlie  govcmmtnt  rcmuins  now  ia  the  same  form. 


f 


148    Route  23.         THE  BEHKSIHIIE  HILLS. 


>  * 


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and  Beecher  adds,  "  May  slie  l)ehold  one  so  much  fairer  that  this  scenic 
beauty  si) all  fade  to  a  shadow."  Lenox  is  the  healthiest  town  in  Berk- 
Kliire,  and  is  1,300  ft.  abo\e  tlie  seadevcl.  600  summer  visitors  remained 
licre  through  tlie  summer  of  1S72. 

Jiald  Head  is  2-3  M.  from  the  village  (carriago-road  to  tlie  top).  From 
thi';  point  is  seen  the  rich  Stockbridge  Valley,  the  Bowl  (Lake  Mahkeenac), 
and  the  wide  Housatonic  valley  on  the  S.,  with  Laurel  Lake  and  Rattle- 
f^nake  Mt.  on  the  S.  E.  On  the  N.  and  W.  are  Lenox  and  Oceola  Mts., 
on  the  N.  is  South  Mt.,  and  on  the  E.  are  the  tumultuous  hills  of  Wash- 
ington, '-a  view  wide,  rich,  and  joyous." 

The  Stockbridge  Bowl  and  Laurel  Lake  are  S.  W.  and  S.  E.  of  Lenox, 
—  each  being  3-4  M.  distant  (see  Stockbridge  and  Lee).  A  pretty  view 
of  Laurel  Lake  is  gained  from  the  first  hill  B.  of  the  village,  with  Leuox 
Furnace  near  it  on  the  1. 

Perry's  Peak  is  6-7  M.  distant,  passing  Lenox  Mt.  and  Richmond 
Valley,  This  lone  summit,  which  stands  on  the  frontier  of  New  York,  is 
2,100  ft.  high,  and  overlooks  the  Hudson,  the  Catskills,  and  the  Green 
^Its.  New  Lebanon,  "  the  Shaker  capital,  and  Gretna  Green  of  Mass.,"  is 
Lut  7-8  M.  beyond  the  Peak. 

At  Lenox  Furnace,  2  M.  S.  E.  of  the  village,  on  the  R.  R.,  are  extensive  glass- 
works, where,  nmoni;  otlicr  varieties,  the  bust  quality  of  plate-glass  is  made,  from 
jtuie  granulated  quartz. 

Other  exouisioiis  arc  to  the  Ledge,  the  Pinnacle,  and  Richmond  Hill.  J'he  sun- 
set view  from  Cliunli  Hill  (nt  the  N.  end  of  the  village)  is  one  of  great  hsauty, 
embracing  even  the  distant  Ureylouk. 

lee  is  4^  M,  S.  E.  of  Lctiox,  hy  the  highway,  and  5  M,  by  f:>tage  and  R. 
R.     Hotels,  Morgan  House  ;  Strickland  House  (in  E.  Lee). 

Lee  was  settled  in  1760,  and  was  named  for  one  of  the  Virginian  Lees, 
Avho  were  so  distinguished  in  the  Continental  Army.  Paper-making  was 
early  commenced  here,  and  now  the  business  has  assumed  vast  propor- 
tions. But  the  town  is  most  widely  known  for  its  excellent  white  marble, 
ofv.'hicTi  $1,000,000  worth  was  used  in  building  the  U.  S.  Capitol  at 
V/ashington.  The  (iuarri(is  are  close  to  the  village  on  the  S.,  and  lie  be- 
tween the  R.  K.  and  the  river.  The  State  fronts  the  sea  with  a  line  of 
granite  and  greenstone,  while  it  fronts  to  the  W.  with  hills  of  gneiss,  slate, 
mid  marble.  The  Lee  and  Hudson,  and  Lee  and  New  Haven  Railroads  are 
projected  routes,  which,  if  finished,  will  increase  the  importance  of  the 
town  and  diminish  the  romance  of  the  Berkshire  Hills. 

Laurel  Jjike  is  a  pretty  sheet  of  water  2  RL  N.  of  Lee,  that  should  be 
visited  in  the  late  afternoon  to  catch  "  the  delicate  evening  lights  that 
glance  from  its  trautpiil  suiface.'' 

The  Yokuni  Ponds  are  among  the  hills  a  few  miles  S.  E,  of  the  village, 
Rud  near  the  romantic  Monterey  road.  The  numerous  summer  visitors  at 
Lee  make  excursions  to  Stockbridge  (4  M.),  Lake  Mahkeenac  (4-5  M.,) 
Tyringham  and  Monterey,  (11  M.V  and  Ler.cx  (4i  M.). 


i 


THE   13EHKSIIIKE   HILLS.         lloutc  23.     149 


IS    SCOUIC 

ill  Berk- 
eniained 

).  From 
ikeenac), 
I  Kattle- 
.la  Mta., 
af  Wash- 

'  Lenox, 
tty  view 
li  Leuox 

ichmonJ 

York,  is 

le  Green 

lass.,"  is 


jive  glass- 
lade,  from 

•The  sun- 
lit beauty. 


^e  and  R. 


ian  Lees, 

iking  was 

:  propor- 

e  marble, 

*apitol  at 

id  lie  be- 

a  line  of 

i 

ias,  slate, 

1  roads  are 

--§ 

ce  of  the 

■  'i^- 

should  be 

1 

ghts  that 

--^' 

le  village, 

visitors  at 

■.^-- 

4-5  M.,) 

''^^j.t;. 

Stookbridge 

(Stockbridge  House,  70-80  guests,  open  only  in  summer.  S  3.00  a  day, 
812-18.00  a  week)  is  6  M.  from  Lee  by  R.  R.,  and  4  M.  by  the  highway. 
Stockbridge  is  one  of  the  fairest  of  what  Gov.  Andrew  called  "the  deli- 
cious sui^jrises  of  Berksh're."  It  is  "  famed  for  its  meadow-elms,  for  tho 
picturesque  beauty  adjacent,  for  the  ({uiet  beauty  of  a  village  whicli 
.sleeps  along  a  level  plain  just  under  the  rim  of  the  hills."  (Bkkchkii.  ) 
The  hotel  fronts  on  the  wide,  main  street;  to  its  1.  is  a  beautiful  littlu 
marble  fountain  from  Italy;  and  before  it  is  the  quaint  and  jiicturesque 
Episcopal  Church,  of  ivy-grown  and  weatlier-staincd  wood,  with  its  sweet 
and  deep-toned  bell.  On  a  verdant  lawn  near  the  church  is  a  brown- 
fitone  shaft  with  sculptured  trophies,  inscribed,  "  To  her  sons,  beloved 
and  honored,  wlio  died  i'or  tlieir  country  in  the  great  war  of  the  Rebellion, 
Stockbridge,  in  grateful  remembrance,  has  raised  this  monument."  On 
the  same  side  of  the  street,  to  the  W.,  the  fourth  house  is  the  ancient 
house  where  I']dwards  wrote  his  famous  treatise  on  "  The  Freedom  of  tlie 
Will."  Some  distance  beyond  is  the  Congregational  Ch\irch,  with  a  large 
cemeteiy  in  front  of  it.  On  tlie  Green  near  by  is  a  fine  m..raorial  monu- 
ment to  Edwards,  built  of  jiolished  Scotch  granite. 

On  the  main  st.,  E.  of  the  hotel,  is  the  Jackson  Library,  a  neat  little 
stone  building  containing  4 -.0,000  volunies,  a  cabinet  of  minerals,  certain 
relics  of  Edwards,  and  a  marble  tablet,  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names 
of  134  officers  and  men  who  went  from  Stockbridge  to  the  Secession  War. 
On  the  street  diverging  from  the  Library  is  a  small  Catholic  Cliurch  of 
marble.  Beyoml  the  Library  is  the  old  Academy  with  a  long  semicirclo 
of  elms  in  front,  a  copy,  in  living  trees,  of  the  stone  porticos  before  St;. 
Peter's  Church  in  Rome.  Back  of  the  Academy  is  Laurel  Hill,  with  a 
turf  rostrum  m  a  glen  surrounded  by  trees  and  I'ocks.  Here  in  late 
August  of  each  year  meets  the  Laurel  Hill  Association,  devoted  to  pre- 
serving, protecting,  and  increasing  the  beauty  of  tlio  village  ami  its  en- 
virons. On  the  heiglits  above  the  village  are  the  mansions  of  David  Dud- 
ley Field  (for  40  years  a  prominent  N.  Y.  lawyer  and  jurist),  II,  M. 
Field,  D.  D.  (author,  and  for  many  years  editor  of  the  "  Evangelist  "  ),  Ivi- 
son  (the  publisher),  Prof.  Joy  (of  Columbia  College),  and  the  old  Mission 
House,  built  by  "the Great  and  General  Court  of  His  Majesty's  Provinc3 
of  Massachusetts  Bay  "  early  in  the  last  century.  The  view  from  thejo 
heights,  especially  about  sunset,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  nature 
(it  was  pronounced  by  Dr.  McCosh  equal  to  any  in  Scotland),  embracing 
the  rich  valley  of  the  Housatonic  to  the  E.  and  W.,  with  the  valley  of 
Konkapot  River  stretching  away  in  the  S.  to  Monument  Mt.,  Bear  Mt. 
iising  close  on  the  1.  and  the  tufted  Evergreen  Hill  divi<ling  the  valley. 

A  great  people  crossed  drop  waterr.  from  a  far-distant  continent  in  the  N.  V\'. 
anil  m-nrlied  by  many  pilgnmaiics  to  the  scr.-ihoro  and  the  valley  of  the  Hudson. 


• 


^ 


150    Rnulc23.         TJIl-:  liEUKSIIIRE  HILLS. 


« 


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t 


1      ; 


1  i 


I 


1   t 

,1    1 


I 


Ilcro  tln-y  built  rilios  and  livpfl,  until  a  pc-it  famine  srattf-rod  them  find  vrry 
many  of  tlifin  died.  Wandcrinj;  for  years  in  ((iiest  of  a  iirecarious  living,  "  tiiey 
losl  tiieir  arts  and  manners,"  and  a  jtart  of  them  settled  by  the  Housatonic.  River. 
Hneh  were  traditions  of  the  Muldiekanew  Indians  t(dd  to  I'resident  l)\vi;.'lit.  In 
1734  the  rolony  established  a  mission,  and  sent  John  Hprgeant  to  teaeii  the  Mnh- 
hekanews  ("  jieojile  of  the  great  moving  waters  ")  at  tiieir  village  of  lloiissatonnuc. 
wliich  was  named  Stoetcbridge.  'I'iiis  tribe  was  ever  frii-ndly  to  tlie  Englisli,  anu 
gladly  receivetl  the  (iosjiel,  lirst  from  the  teaehings  of  Sergeant,  who  labored  liere 
1734-  4!»,  and  translated  the  New  Testament,  and  jiart  of  the  Old,  into  tiieir 
language.  In  \.>  years  he  baptized  12!)  Indians.  He  was  succeeded  by  Jonathan 
Edwards  (preacliing  by  interpreters,  17r)l-7\  who  in  tnrn  was  sneeeeded  by 
Stephen  \V(!st.  .Many  ol  tlie  Indians  enlisted  in  the  C'ontiminUd  Army,  and  a 
company  of  them  won  liigli  distinction  at  the  battle  of  Wliite  I'laiiis.  In  17rjl 
there  were  15(t  Imlian  families  here,  and  bnt  (i  Kn^lish  families  ;  bnt  by  1783  tliR 
balance  had  cliaiigc<l,  and  Jolin  .Sergeant's  son,  tlien  their  jiastor,  led  the  tribe  to 
New  Stfjckliridge,  on  land  givt  n  by  the  Oneiila  tribe,  in  Western  New  York. 
Abont  400  people  were  nnmbered  in  this  emigratioii.  They  remainetl  there  ;!4 
years,  and  tlieii  moved  to  Wisconsin,  where  they  stayed  17  years  more,  and  aiiout 
the  year  1S40  moved  to  the;  vicinity  of  Leavenworth,  in  Kansas.  Where  they  have 
been  crowded  to  since,  this  record  cannot  tell. 

In  KiGO  the  great  Hachem  Checkatiil>nt,  head  of  the  Massachusetts  Indians, 
with  700  warriors,  marchcil  from  the  sea  to  the  Hudson  on  a  cam])aign  against 
the  .Mohawks.  TIk;  latter,  concentrating  their  IVirccs  at  the  great  tribal  fortress, 
repelled  all  assanlts  and  made  tierce  sorties,  until  the  men  of  Massaehu.setts,  llrid- 
ing  their  ])rovisi()ns  failing,  and  tlie  whole  country  rising  about  their  ears,  beat  a 
retrezit.  Their  march  was  jn-obably  directed  on  fStnckViriilge,  as  being  the  seat  of 
a  rich,  peaceful,  and  friendly  trii)e,  where  they  could  hope  to  get  food  and  aid. 
13ut  a  powerful  force  i>f  Moliawks,  by  a  forced  march,  got  ahead  of  them  and  laid 
an  ambush  among  the  dense  foi-ests  and  rugged  ravines  of  Lhe  Taconics  (Tagh- 
kanak,  "  tlie  Avood  place,"  or  "  Forest  Hills").  The  retreating  warriors  tell  into 
the  snare,  an<l  in  the  long  and  desiicrate  conllict  which  ensued,  ('iieckatiibut  and 
58  of  his  sagamores  were  killed,  together  with  a  great  portion  of  the  men.  Only 
a  handful  succeeded  in  reaching  the  coast  again. 

At  the  close  of  King  Philii)'s  War,  the  remnants  of  the  insurgent  confederation 
took  refuge  in  the  S.  Berkshire  Hills.  But  Talcott's  "  Flying  Army,"  from  the 
K.,  and  the  Mohawks,  from  the  W.  made  such  devastating  inroads  upon  them 
that  they  sjieedily  maiie  their  submission. 

Among  the  natives  of  Htockbridge  are  H.  M.  Field.  D.  D.,  the  editor;  Cyni.<j 
W.  Field,  the  jM-ojector  and  organizer  of  the  Atlantic  Telegraph  Cable  ;  E.  Bacon, 
the  jurist  ;  J.  H.  llart,  the  author;  and  Caroline  M.  Sedgwick,  the  popular  au- 
tlHUcss  of  "Redwood,"  "Hope  Leslie,"  &c. 

Jonathan  Edwards,  the  greatest  of  American  metaphysicians,  was  bom  in 
Conn.,  1703,  and  a  ter  30  years  of  preaching  he  settled  at  Stockbridge.  Here  ho 
wrote  the  remarkable  treatise  on  "  The  Freedom  of  the  AVill,"  in  whose  close  and 
subtle  argument  }ie  maintained  "that  philosophic  necessity  was  comjnitible  with 
freedom  of  the  will,  rightly  delined,  and  with  human  responsibility.  Tall  and 
.slender  in  jicrson,  lit;  had  a  high,  broad,  bold  fortihead,  piercing  and.  luminous 
eyes,  and  a  countenance  indicative  of  sincerity  and  benevolence."  The  great  re- 
ligious awakening  which  convulsed  the  frozen  churches  of  New  England  before 
the  middle  of  the  last  century  was  largely  caused  by  his  marvellous  sermons,  un- 
evadable  in  their  directness,  incontrovertible  in  their  logic,  and  terrific  in  their 
luritl  earnestness.  Probably  no  preacher  since  Chrysostom  has  had  such  power 
of  striking  convulsive  terror  into  an  audience  ;  and  this  he  did  simply  by  his 
words  ami  by  his  intense  earnestness,  and  without  any  of  the  graces  or  artifices 
of  oratory. 

While  President  of  New  Jersey  College,  Edwards  died  (1758),  leaving  "The 
Freedom  of  the  Will,"  "Tht;  Re'ligious  Affections,"  and  "The  History  of  Ue- 
dciinption,"  as  his  great  moimments.  These,  and  his  other  writings,  includuijj 
many  sermons,  lill  10  octavo  volumes. 

"These  thn;e,  Augustine,  Calvin,  and  Jonathan  Edwards." 
*Lake  Mahkeenac  (Stockbridge  V,o\\\)  is  3-1  M.  N.  of  the  village  by 
admirable  roads.     This  is  a  bcatitifui,  calm  lake,  surrounded  by  hills,  and 


I 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS.         Route  23.     151 


I 

■i 

3 

X 


■with  the  village  find  Kpiro  of  Curtisvillc  jieering  above  the  trees  on  the  S. 
The  best  way  is  to  go  up  by  t..o  road  on  the  heights,  leaving  Mahlioenuc 
on  the  1.  and  passing  around  its  N.  end,  return  on  a  road  W.  of  the  Lake 
through  Curtisvillc.  5  niin.  walk  from  the  latter  village  is  a  beauliful 
little  tani  called  Lake  Averick,  or  Mountain  Mirror.  Hawthorne  lived 
in  a  little  rod  farndiouso  near  ^lahkeonac  for  a  year  and  a  half  (18.">0-51), 
but  remembered  the  many-sounding  sea  on  whose  shores  he  was  bom  and 
had  lived,  and  says  but  littlo  ai)out  this  mountain-water.  But  he  found 
rare  i)lcasure  in  watching  the  mountains  themselves.  "  In  its  autumn 
lines,  Monument  Mt,  looks  like  a  headless  sphinx  wrapped  in  a  rich  Per- 
sian shawl"  ;  ''this  valley  in  which  I  dwell  seems  like  a  vast  basin  filled 
with  sunshine  as  with  wuie;  and  the  changes  of  the  seasons  on  Monu- 
ment and  Bald  Mts.,  and  the  black-purple  dome  of  Taconic,  with  the 
winter  sunset  which  has  a  softness  and  delicacy  Avhich  impart  themselves 
to  a  white  marble  world." 

*  Monument  Mt.  is  3-4  M.  from  Stockbridge.  The  Great  Barrington 
road  is  followed  to  tlie  top  of  the  ndge,  then  a  wood-road  diverges  to  tlio 
r.  Wi)eiw2  M.  from  the  N.  summit  a  i>alh  is  taken  which  conducts  to 
Pulpit  Rock,  the  Profile  (beyond  the  N.  summit),  kc.  On  the  E.  side  is 
a  white  quartz  cliff  of  vast  depth,  detached  from  which  is  the  Pulpit. 
From  the  summit  a  noble  *  view  is  gained,  embracing  the  Ilousatonic  Valley 
for  many  leagues,  with  its  fair  villages  and  mountain-walls,  while  the 
Green  Mt.  and  Greylock  tower  in  the  N.  and  the  Catskills  may  be  seen 
in  the  \V.,  if  the  day  is  clear. 

"  To  the  north  a  pnth 
Conducts  yon  Tip  the  narrow  l):ittleinent«. 
Strep  is  the  wostcrn  side,  shopgy  nnd  wild, 
With  many  trees  nni\  jiinnucles  of  flint. 
And  manv  a  linnphty  ernjr.    But  to  the  cast 
Sheer  to  the  vale  so  down  the  hiire  old  elifTs, 
Huge  pilliirs  that  in  middle  Heaven  iinrear 
Their  weather-bentcn  capitals  —  here  dark 
With  the  thick  moss  of  centuries,  and  there 
Of  chalky  whiteness,  where  the  thunderbolt 
Hath  smitten  them."  —  Bryant. 

The  Mt.  derives  its  name  from  a  eaim  whirii  was,  made  of  stones,  to  •which 
each  passing  Indian  added  a  stone.  The  legend  states  that  it  was  raised  over  a 
bijautiful  maiden  who  passionately  loved  her  cousin,  and  being  forbidden  by  tlio 
Indian  laws  to  marry  him,  she  threw  herself  from  a  lofty  clitf  and  was  dashed  in 
jncces. 

Icy  Glen  is  about  U  M.  from  Stockbridge,  by  the  road  crossing  the  R.  R.  just 
to  tlie  1.  of  the  station,  —  and  leaving  the  road  near  some  houses  at  the  mt.  foot, 
go  Tip  into  a  romantic  glen,  with  seats  arranged  about  it.  From  this  point  a  wil(l 
chaos  of  rocks,  caverns,  and  trees  extends  through  a  long  ravine,  where  ice  is 
found  in  July.  This  i.s  t!ie  N.  end  of  Bear  Mt.,  on  who.se  top  an  ob.sen'atorj-  has 
been  i-aiscd,  commanding  a  neat  view.  It  is  gained  ])y  crossing  the  river  on  a 
wire  foot-bridge  near  the  Main  St.,  and  takiiig  a  pleasant  forest-path  up  the  slope. 

Ex(!ursions  are  made  from  Stockbridge  to  Leo,  Lenox,  Great  Barrington,  and 
Mt.  Everett,  also  to  the  romantic  and  desolate  town  of  Monterey  (11  M.  S.  E.). 

"If  you  wish  to  be  tilled  and  satisfied  with  the  serenest  delight,  ri<le  to  the 
summit  of  this  encircling  hill-ridge  "  (above  Stockbridge)  in  a  summer's  afternoon, 
while  the  sun  is  but  an  hour  high.  The  Hou.satouic  winds,  in  great  circuits,  all 
through  the  valley,  earrj'ing  willows  and  alders  with  it  wherever  it  goes.    The 


T 


'     , 


152    R(nUc23.         THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 

horizon  on  every  side  is  pilod  and  terraced  witli  mountains.  Abrupt  and  isolated 
mountains  bolt  up  here  and  there  over  the  whole  stretch  of  plain,  covered  with 
evergreens."     (Bef.chkr.) 

Oreat  Barrington  is  S.  of  Stockbridge,  8  M.  by  R.  R,,  6^  M.  by  high- 
way. 

Hotels:  Berkshire  Hotel,  a  roomy  old  stone  building,  $10-14.00  a 
week;  Miller's  Hotel.  This  "is  one  of  those  places  which  one  never  en- 
ters without  wishing  never  to  leave.  It  rests  beneatli  the  branches  of 
great  numbers  of  the  stateliest  elms."  (Bkixher.)  Fine  macadamized 
roads  are  built  around  the  place,  on  which  excursions  are  made  to  Monu- 
ment Mt.  (-4  M.),  Monterey  (8  M.),  and  Sheffield  (6-7  M.).  In  the  vi- 
cinity is  a  curious  rock  formation  called  Purgatory,  while  a  path  leads  to 
the  top  of  E.  Mt.  in  2  M.  The  Berkshire  Soda  iSprinr/s  (small  hotel)  aic; 
about  3  M.  to  the  S.  E.,  amid  wild  scenery.  S(;veral  fine  villas  are  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  village,  and  the  Cong,  and  Epis.  churches,  on  the  main 
street,  are  fine  buildings. 

A  daily  stage  nms  to  New  Marlboro'  (Centre  House),  which  has  a  large  cave 
with  .stalactites,  a  rocking  stone  of  30  tons,  and  Hermit  PtMid,  near  which  a  lone 
hermit  lived  from  1770  till  his  death,  in  1817.  He  was  a  woman-hater,  and  epito- 
mized the  female  character  thus, :  — 

"  They  sny  they  will,  and  they  won't ; 
What  they  promise  to  do,  they  don't." 

W.  of  New  Marlboro'  is  Sandisfield,  with  Seymour  and  Hanging  Mts.  and  Spec- 
tacle Ponds.  Here  was  born  Col.  John  JJrown  (1744),  a  lirave  partisan  officer  in 
the  Revolutionary  War,  whose  fearless  and  fanatical  Puritan  grandson.  John 
Brown,  invaded  the  powerful  State  of  Virginia  at  the  head  of  20  men  (Oct.  16, 
1850),  intending  to  become  the  liberator  of  the  slaves  of  the  South.  The  Virginian 
militia  gathered  quickly,  attacked  him  at  Harper's  Ferry,  killed  most  of  his  men 
(including  his  two  sons),  and  ca'ptured  the  wounded  leader.  He  was  hung,  ac- 
cord hig  to  the  sentence  of  the  law,  in  November,  "and  met  death  with  serene 
composure." 

A  daily  stage  runs  from  Great  Barrington  to  N.  and  S.  Egremont,  4-5  M.  S.  E. 
The  Mt.  Everett  Hou.se,  in  S.  Egremont,  is  a  small  and  secluded  summer-hotel, 
situated  about  5  M.  from  the  lofty  Mt.  Everett,  and  in  a  thinly  settled  town 
abounding  with  lakes.  The  a.scent  of  Mt.  Everett  is  "along  a  vast,  luiculti- 
vated  slope,  to  the  height  of  nearly  2,000  ft.,  when  you  reach  the  broad  valley 
where  the  few  inhabitants  reside,  in  tlie  centre  of  a  vast  pile  of  mts."  The 
town  has  but  256  inhabitants.  Dr.  Hitchcock  thus  describes  tlie  *  view  from  Mt. 
Everett :  "  You  feel  yourself  to  be  standing  above  everything  around  you,  and 
possess  the  proud  consciousness  of  literally  looking  down  ui)on  all  terrestrial 
scenes.  Before  you  on  the  E.  the  valley  through  which  the  Housatonic  meanders 
stretches  far  N.  in  Mass.,  and  S.  into  Conn.  ;  s}>rinklcd  over  with  copse  and  glebe, 
with  small  sheets  of  water  and  beautiful  villages.  To  the  S.  E.  a  large  sheet  of 
water  appears,  of  surpassing  beauty.  In  the  S.  \V.  the  gigantic  Alander,  Riga, 
and  other  mts.  more  remote,  seem  to  bear  the  blue  heavens  on  their  heads  in 
(^alm  majesty  ;  while  stretching  across  the  far  distant  W.  the  Catskills  hang  like 
the  curtains  of  the  sky.  O  what  a  glorious  display  of  mts.  all  around  you  !  This 
is  certainly  the  gi-andest  prospect  in  Mass.,  though  others  are  more  beautiful." 

Mt.  'Washington  town  was  an  apjtauage  of  tlie  great  Livingston  Manor,  of  New 
York,  and  was  first  settled  by  the  Dutch,  as  were  Egremont,  Great  Barrington, 
Sheffield,  and  Salisbuiy.  The  tourist  may  wonder  at  the  apparent  lack  of  origi- 
nality displayed  iii  the  name  of  the  town,  but  without  reason,  since  this  is  tlie 
first  of  the  many  American  towns  named  in  honor  of  the  great  Virginian,  its  name 
having  been  given  by  the  State  Legislature  in  1776,  as  being  a  fitting  title  for  the 
loftiest  town  in  Mas.sachusei,ts. 


m 


■I 


THE  BERKSHIRE   HILLS.  lioxitc  2.i.     153 


In  Egreinont  occurred  the  last  engagement  in  Shays'  reliellion.  when  the  insur- 
pents,  after  plundering  Stockbriflge,  were  attucketl  here  by  the  Great  liiirrington 
militia,  and  40-fiO  were  killed  and  wounded. 

Bash-Blsh  Falls  (see  Halisbury,  Conn.)  are  about  10  M.  from  the  Mt.  Everett 
House,  by  a  road  runiiinK  down  through  Mt.  Wasliin;.rton,  and  around  Cedar  Mt. 
The  view.s  of  Mt.  Everett,  Elk,  Alaiider,  and  Cedar  Mts.  are  line. 

6  M.  S.  of  Great  Barriiigton  is  Sheffield  (Miller's  Hotel,  small),  **  full 

of  rural  simplicity  and   lieauty,  richly  decorated  with  lovely  valley  and 

majestic  mountain  scenery."     It  is  a  ([uiet  village,  with  a  broad,  shady 

street,  in  a  ricli  intervale  of  the  Housatouic,  and  is  chiefly  noted  for  it« 

marble,  of  which  Girard  College  (Philadelphia),  with  its  huge  columns, 

was  built.      Pictures(iue  roads  run  S.  into  Salisbury,  and  N.  W.  into 

Egremont. 

Bishop  .Tane.s,  of  the  Methodist  Chureh  :  D.  D.  Bamanl,  8  years  M.  C.  and 
Minister  to  Prussia,  iHl'J-5:{;  V.  A.  i'.  Bamanl,  President  of  Columbia  College 
since  18G4  ;  H.  D.  and  T.  Hcd^'wick,  lawyei-s.  the  latter  of  whom  wad  derided  tor. 
introducing'  a  bill  in  tlie  Iie-,'islatnre,  i)ro,ieetin!t,'  a  railroad  from  Boston  to  Albany 
(1827) ;  Chester  Dewey,  D.  1).,  ch-n^yman  and  l>ot;niist ;  Orvdlo  Dewey,  D.  D.,  the 
Unitiuian  divine  ;  and  Judge  Daniel  Dewey,  —  were  natives  of  Shcflleld. 

Northern  Berkshire 

is  approached  from  Pittsfield  by  the  Pitlsfiold  and  N.  Adams  Branch  R. 
R.  There  is  also  a  romantic  road  leading  through  the  western  valleys  and 
remote  from  the  R.  R.,  passing  Pontoosuo  Lake,  and  then  through  the 
glens  between  the  Saddle- Back  Range  and  that  line  of  mts,  which  stretch 
from  Old  Tower  Hill  to  the  tall  peak  of  Berlin  xMt.  Tliis  road  passes 
through  the  villages  of  Lanesboro,  New  Ashford,  and  S.  Williamstown. 
The  R.  R.  first  crosses  part  of  Lanesboro  (station,  Berkshire,  2  small 
hotels),  a  town  which  has  beds  of  snow-white  granular  quartz,  used  here 
in  the  manufacture  of  superior  cylinder  glass.  Variegated  marble  al.'so 
abounds  here.  In  1(576  King  Philip  attacked  Lanesboro  with  1,500  men, 
and  effected  its  destruction.  H.  W.  Sliaw  was  bom  in  this  tnwi  in  1818, 
and  has  since  18(53  attained  a  higli  reputation  as  a  humorist,  under  tho 
name  of  "Josh  Billings."  The  line  here  enters  the  valley  of  tho  Hoosac 
River,  which  it  follows  to  N.  Adams.  Cheshire  is  the  next  town,  in  a 
fertile  alluvial  valley  surrounded  by  lofty  hills.  Tliis  town  is  famous  for 
its  dairies,  and  in  1802  its  people  sent  as  a  New  Year's  gift  to  President 
Jefferson  a  mammoth  cheese  weighing  1,4;jO  pounds.  Before  reaching 
Cheshire  Harbor  tlie  great  Saddle- Back  Range  begins,  on  the  W.,  about  2 
M.  from  the  track.  A  road  leadcs  from  Cheshire  Harbor  E.  into  Savoy, 
a  wild  mt.  town,  with  one  small  village  called  Savoy  Hollow  (Green  Mt. 
House). 

S.  Adams  (the  birthplace  of  Susan  B.  Anthony)  is  next  reached.  From 
S.  Adams  is  the  shortest  and  easiest  of  the  routes  to  the  top  of  the  ma- 
jestic Greylock  Mt.  which  towers  over  the  valley.  This  is  the  highest  mt, 
in  Mnss.  .and  commands  a  *view  "immense,  and  of  amazing  grandeur." 

7  * 


I 


.t 


i 

i 

\ 


154    Route  S3.  THE  RERKSIllRE  HILLS. 

Till!  road  runs  W.  uinl  then  N.,  crossing  a  spur  of  the  mt.,  from  which 
l»rctty  \iews  of  the  vulh-y  of  the  Iloosac  and  its  villages  are  gained.  De- 
ficending  now  <A'er  a  very  rough  road,  the  Notch  (sometimes  called  tho 
iJcllowH  I'ipt",  from  Ihc  gusts  whicli  draw  through  it)  is  entered.  Tho 
mt.  just  crossed  is  called  Mt.  Hawks.  At  Waldeu's  house  the  Notch 
road  is  left,  and  Mt.  Williams  is  rounded  on  its  N.  side,  then  the  clcaririg 
hetwccn  Mts.  Williams  a.id  Prospect  is  j)asscd  ;  the  long  W.  slope  of  a 
ridge  is  ascended,  and  alttr  a  southerly  walk  the  summit  is  attained.  A 
straightor  and  simi)U'r,  though  less  pictures(pie,  way  is  right  up  the  S. 
slope  from  S.  Adams. 

The  simniii)  of  (Jrcylock  is  iiartially  rlp.irrd,  and  ovp.-lnoks  tho  valley  of  tlio 
Iloosac  oil  tlie  N.  with  its  villa^'cs,  and  the  peaks  of  tlie  (Jnieii  Mts.  beyond.  N. 
olio,  anil  .S.  of  K.,  nearly  GO  Al.  away,  are  Mts.  Monndnock  and  VVaehusett  ;  (hio 
S.  E.,  nearly  40  M.  distant,  are  Jrlts.  Tom  and  Holyoke.     .Southward  are  the  many 

{leaks  of  the  Berkshire  Ilills,  bounded  by  Mt.  Everett,  with  Pittslield  and  its 
akes,  and  other  villages  and  towns.  S.  W.  are  the  Calskills,  and  it  is  thought  tiint 
the  Mts.  in  the  N.  AV.  are  those  which  environ  Lake  (ieorge.  Saddle  Mt.  and 
Saddle  Ball  are  close  to  (jreyloek,  and  resjjectively  N.  ami  S.  The  jintlis  to  tho 
Hununit  of  (Jreylock  are  diliicult  and  easily  lost,  and  the  excursion  will  require  a 
long  day. 

N.  Adams  (*  Wilson  House,  expensive  and  first-class,  with  100  rooms, 
Imilt  by  Wilson,  the  sewing-machine  inventor ;  Berkshire  House)  is  a 
prosperous  manufacturing  village,  on  the  Iloosac  River.  It  has  20  cotton 
and  woollen  milis,  and  various  other  industri'js,  employing  3,600  hands, 
and  turning  out  §  7  -  8,000,000  worth  of  goods  a  year.  Some  neat  villas 
and  a  tine  high-school  house  have  been  built,  and  tho  town  expects  great 
benefit  when  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  is  done,  by  the  junction  of  railroads  here. 
The  population  in  1870  was  12,092. 

About  1  M.  from  the  villape  (to  the  E.)  i.s  the  Natural  Bridrje,  on  ITiulson's 
Brook,  when;  the  waters  have  woni  a  passage  tlirougli  tlie  solid  rock  30  rods  long 
and  l^  ft.  wide,  leaving  an  arch  of  stained  marble  above  it  at  a  height  of  30-60 
ft.  This  cavernous  jiassage  was  a  favorite  resort  of  Hawthorne,  who  spent  the 
sununcr  of  l.«;;?8  at  N.  Adams,  and  often  bathed  in  the  waters  of  the  brook.  "  The 
cave  makes  a  fresli  im]ire.ssion  upon  me  every  time  I  visit  it,  —  .so  deep,  so  in  "gular, 
80  gloomy,  so  stern  ;  part  of  its  walls  the  pure  white  of  the  marble,  others  covered 
witii  a  gray  decomjHJsition  and  with  spots  of  nio.'^s,  ami  with  brake  growing  where 
there  is  a  handful  of  earth.  I  stand  and  look  into  its  depths  at  various  points, 
and  liear  the  roar  of  the  stream  re-echoing  up.  It  is  like  a  heart  tliat  lias  been 
rent  asunder  by  a  torrent  of  passion,  Avhich  has  laged  and  foamed,  and  left  its 
ineffaceable  traces  ;  though  now  there  is  but  a  little  rill  of  feeling  at  the  bottom." 

The  Ciutcmlc  in  Notch  Brook  is  about  1^  M.from  the  hotel,  and  has  a  fall  of  30  ft. 
It  is  situated  in  a  pretty  glen. 

From  the  hill  E.  of  the  village  are  "  various  excellent  views  of  mt. 
scenery,  far  and  near,"  with  "  Greylock,  appearing,  with  its  two  summits 
and  a  long  ridge  between,  like  a  huge  monster  crouching  down  slumber- 
ing, with  its  head  slightly  elevated."  Other  fine  prospects  are  gained 
from  +he  various  hills  which  surround  the  village. 

2  M.  S.  is  the  W.  end  of  the  *  Hoosac  Tunnel.  This  stupendous  piece 
of  engineering  is  designed  to  furnish  a  shorter  route  by  9  M.  than  now 


,  f 


THE   liEUKSIIIKE   HILLS. 


Roule  S3. 


ir)5 


im  wliich 
cd.  I)e- 
illed  tho 
ed.     TIio 

10  Notch 
i  clcarin{» 
ope  of  :i 
ined.  A 
ip  the  S. 


loy  of  iho. 
yoiul.  N. 
isett ;  due 
!  the  iiiuny 
(1  and  its 
ju^lit  lliut 
e  Mt.  and 
Ilia  to  tho 
require  a 


10  rooms, 
)use)  is  a 
20  cotton 
30  hands, 
leat  villas 
cts  great 
)ads  here. 


Hudson's 
)  rods  U)ng 

of  m  -  60 

spent  the 
lii.  "The 
)  in  "gular, 
rs  covered 
viny  where 
us  points, 

lias  been 
lid  left  its 
e  bottom." 
ill  of  30  ft. 


vs  of  mt. 
>  summits 
slumber- 
re  gained 

lous  piece 
than  now 


exists  from  Boston  to  tho  Hudson,  with  easy  grailes.  By  opening  a  new 
line  to  the  West,  it  is  hoj>ed  to  re»luce  l»y  competition  the  jircsent  hi^'h 
tarilTs  on  through  freight.  The  tunnel  is  to  be  4'^  M.  long,  cut  through 
the  IIoosaL  Mt.,  whose  vast  bulk  running  N.  and  S.  closed  the  way.  Tho 
Nertlie  Tunnel  in  B.  Frrucc,  and  the  Woodhead  Tunnel  in  F^ngland,  an) 
each  nearly  '6  M.  long  ;  so  the  Iloo.sac  Tunnel  will  bo  second  oidy  to  that 
at  Mt.  Cenis,  which  is  7^  M.  long.  Tho  work  is  nf)w  undertaken  liy  tho 
State,  and  has  been  a  fearful  drain  on  the  treasury,  having  already  cost, 
since  1855,  §5-6,000,000,  and  half  as  much  more  will  bo  needed  In 
finish  it.  Less  than  2,000  ft.  of  excavation  now  remains  to  be  done,  and 
it  is  tliouglit  that  the  E.  and  W.  cuttings  will  meet  by  Nov.,  1S73.  From 
a  valley  between  the  peaks  of  the  Iloosac  Mt.  a  great  shaft  has  been  sunk 
to  the  grade  level,  and  the  boring  operations  have  been  conducted  in  each 
way  from  this  point  toward  the  excavations  at  the  E.  and  W.  ends.  Tn 
1872,  the  cntting  which  was  being  ma<le  from  the  shaft  westward  met  tho 
tuimel  from  tho  W.  end  in  the  heart  of  the  mountain. 

Tlie  mountain  consists  of  solid  niiiua  slate,  except  at  tlu!  \V.  end,  whcro 
great  trouble  was  given  by  a  soft,  treacherous  "  porridge  stone,"  through 
which  a  tube  of  brick  900  ft.  long  was  built.  Tlie  cuttings  through  tlie 
biate-rock  are  done  by  power  drills  propelled  by  conii)ressed  air  (pressure 
of  6  atmospheres)  and  are  afterwards  exploded  by  nitro-glycerinc. 
I  Six-horse  stages  leave  North  Adams  daily  for  the  passage  of  Iloosac 
I  Mt.  to  tlio  E.  end  of  the  tunnel  (8  M.).  After  a  long,  slow  ascent  by  zig- 
zag gradients,  the  W.  crest  of  Hoosac  is  gained,  with  a  view  of  Greyloclc 
in  the  S.  W.  and  the  broa<l  sweep  of  the  Taconic  Hills  from  the  parent 
range  in  Vermont  to  the  blue  and  cloudlike  soutlicm  peaks.  S.  Adams 
is  plainly  visible,  and  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac  stretcliing  W.,  and  tho 
broad,  central  valley  of  Berkshire  running  S.  Descending  the  slope  to  tho 
plateau,  the  buildings  over  the  Central  Shaft  are  seen.  The  lofty  and 
winter-worn  plateau  is  soon  crossed  and  the  E.  summit  is  climbed. 

A  noble  view  is  obtained  from  this  point,  above  tho  romantic  i;c)rKe  of  tho 
Doerfield  River  to  Wachusevt  Mt.,  "and  beyond  it  the  blue  and  indistinctive 
scone  extended  to  the  E.  and  N.  for  at  least  (>()  M.  Beyond  the  hills  it  lool-ed 
I  almost  as  if  tlie  blue  ocean  might  be  seen.  Monadnock  was  visible,  like  a  saji- 
jiliire  cloud  against  the  sky.  The  scenery  on  the  E.  side  of  the  (Jrecn  Mts.  is  in- 
eoin])aral)ly  mere  striking  than  on  tlie  W.  where  the  long  swells  and  ridges  havt  a 
flatness  of  eif'ect.  But  on  the  eastern  part,  jieaks  1-2,000  ft.  higli  ni.sh  up  "ii 
eitlier  bank  of  the  river  in  ranges,  thrusting  out  their  shoulders  side  by  side. 
Sometimes  tho  preeii)ice  rises  with  abrui>tness  from  the  imiuediate  side  of  tite 
river;  sometimes  tliero  is  a  vaUcy  on  either  side;  cultivated  long  and  with  all 
the  smoothness  and  antiiiue  runility  of  a  farm  near  cities,  this  ge  itle  ]iiclmc  is 
strongly  set  off  by  the  wild  nit.  frame  around  it.  I  have  never  Iriven  tlinngh 
such  rumantic  scenery,  when;  there  was  such  variety  and  boldness  of  mt.  sliapcs 
as  tliis  ;  ami  though"  it  was  a  sunny  day,  the  mts.  diversified  the  view  with  sun- 
shiuo  and  shadow,  and  glory  and  gloom."    (Hawthokxe.) 

1  At  Hoosao  Tunnel  station,  at  tlie  E.  foot  of  the  nit.,  one  meets  the 

U\\h\i^  of  the  Vt.  an<l  :\IaHs.  11.  K. 


15G     Route  i3.        THE   nKRKSHIUi:  HfLLS. 


•?i! 


I'5 


About  1  M.  W.  of  N.  AtlmnH,  ami  beyond  the  small  factorj-  vilhigo  of 
Braytonvillo,  tlio  road  to  WilliainNtown  itoshos  tlic  railroad  aiul  tlie  Iloo.sar 
River.  Nuar  thi.i  .Tossing  a  small  olm  is  seen  in  a  mradow  about  20  rods 
from  the  track.  This  eliii  stamls  on  the  site  of  old  I'ltrt  Massachusetts, 
"  the  Thtrmoi>yl{r  of  New  Eni^dand."    (Evkkktt.) 

This  was  built  in  1744  ns  onf  of  n  ronlnn  of  fort«  to  proti-rt  the  front iem.  Fort 
Diuiinicr  K'lanifd  tlif  N.  nmlr  ddwii  tin-  (  onii.  vality,  and  this  fort  was  to  bloclv 
\\\)  till!  W.  roulf  tliinii-Ii  tie  IIiiiis(fii,  llfiosac,  ami  T)('i'i(lfl(l  v;illcys.  In  IT-l'i 
Col.  Willinjiis  ami  many  ni<  ii  iminli»Ml  lioncc  to  Allinny  to  join  tlic  nrniy  for  in- 
vadin.'^  Canada,  l>ut  inciiiiw  liilc  tlic  •■iicmy  li.id  iiiaiic  a  ll;inl<  nianli,  and  tiie  Chev- 
alier dc  Vaiidrt'iijl  atl.'uKfd  ijir  fmt  lit  tin-  licid  of  !ioo  rrctich  and  Indians.  Scr- 
Roant  IlawUs  and  '22  men  held  llic  jilacc  for  4H  hours  apiinst  this  ovcrwholniini,' 
force,  and  only  surn-ndcrcd  wlii-n  cm  ly  i^iniu  of  iiowdcr  was  exhausted.  The 
Franoo-Imlian  force  lost  47  men  l»c(ore  the  furt. 

From  Fort  Massadinsctts  the  highway,  railroad,  and  river  run  through 
the  narrow  valley  lo  Williamstown  (Mansion  Ibmse,  125  guests).  This 
is  a  beautiful  village  situated  in  a  fertile  valley  which  is  grandly  moun- 
taiii-walled.  From  its  air  of  aeadenne  (luiet  it  will  be  preferred  as  a 
summer-home  to  its  neighbor,  N.  Adams,  wliieh  is  too  j.rosperous  to  1x5 
still.  The  reason  of  Williamstov/n's  being  is  Williams  College,  a  nour- 
ishing institution  (founded  in  1793),  with  11  instruetors  and  101  students. 
W.  Co]lege  and  Kellogg  Hall  a?'e  opi)Osite  President  Hopkins's  house  on 
the  main  street,  and  beyond  them,  to  the  E.,  is  a  cluster  of  buildings 
embracing  the  Chapel,  Alunnd  Hall,  the  octaf-oiud  Lawrence  Hall  (con- 
taining a  library  of  12, '^00  volumes,  many  portraits  of  graduates,  and 
some  bas-reliefs  from  Nineveh),  the  E.  and  S.  Colleges,  the  fine  stone 
stnicture  called  Goodrich  Hall,  and  GrifTm  Hall,  Opposite  the  latter  is  a 
brownstone  shaft  sustaining  the  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier.  It  was  erected 
in  memory  of  the  students  of  the  college  who  died  in  the  Secession  War. 

Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  the  founder  of  Williams  Collc-ro,  was  born  at  Newton, 
Mass.,  in  1715.  He  was  lieut. -colonel  of  the  8th  Ma.ssacdiusetts  IU%  at  the  siej/e 
of  Louisbourg,  in  174.5,  and  commanded  the  trans-Connecticut  forts  from  1718  In 
1755.  In  1755,  with  his  regiment,  lie  joined  Gen.  Johnson's  army,  and  whih'  dI 
Albany  he  made  a  will  leaving  his  estate  for  tlie  erection  of  a  school  in  a  town  io 
be  located  W.  of  Fort  Mass.  to  be  called  Williamstown.  Shortly  after,  wliile, 
marching  with  1,200  men  to  engage  Diesk.au  near  Lake  George,  his  command 
was  ambushed  and  overpowered,  and  Col.  Williams  was  killed.  The  school  v.as 
established  in  17!iO,  in  a  brick  linilding  (the  present  W.  College),  and  was  char- 
tered as  Williams  College  in  170.'i.  Its  presidents  have  been  F)r.  E.  Fitcli  (17{';5- 
1S1.5),  Dr.  Z.  H.  Moore  (1S15- 21),  Dr.  E.  D.  Griltin  (1821-30),  and  Mark  Hoplun.s, 
D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  an  able  and  active  writer  and  scholar. 

.  Near  W.  College  is  ^f^lls  Park,  with  a  marble  .shaft  surmounted  by  a 
globe,  which  indicates  the  place  Avhere  Samuel  J.  Mills,  "  the  Father  of 
Foreign  Missions  in  America,"  and  his  comjianious,  consecrated  themselves 
to  the  mission-cause  (1807).  Mills  originated  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  and  the 
American  Bilde  Society,  and  died  at  sea  (after  exploring  Liberia  for  a  site 
for  a  colony  of  freedmen)  at  the  early  age  of  35. 
About  2  M.  N.  of  the  village  is  the  famou.s  Sand  Sjmng,  with  e.vten- 


NEW  YOUK   TO  QUKnEC.         Hnute  SI     157 


■  village  of 
the  TlooHac 
lit  20  rnd^ 
■^.sachusetts, 


it  lent.  Fort, 
viiH  to  Mod; 
ys.  In  17in 
niniy  for  iii- 
1(1  tlic  Clitv- 
Kliaiis.     Sor- 

VtMWllcllIlillt,' 

uiskd.     Tin; 


mi  tliroupli 
l^sts).  This 
iitlly  niouii- 
ifeiTcd  an  ii 
[;ron8  to  bo 
ge,  a  llonr- 
Dl  stiKlunts. 
i's  house  on 
oi  LuiUliiigs 
e  Hall  (coii- 
(luates,  and 
e  line  stone 
le  latter  is  a 
;  was  erected 
lession  War. 

•n  at  Newton, 
,  nt  tlie  sii'frn 
s  from  17 IS  In 
lUi'l  while  ill 
in  a  town  to 
'  after,  wliilc, 
his  command 
he  school  was 
nd  was  char- 
Fitch  (17t>:{- 
ark  Hoi)ldn.s, 

ountcd  by  a 
e  Father  of 
i  themselves 
M.,aud  the 
da  for  a  site 

with  exten- 


Hive  bathing-housi's.  Tlie  abiunhmt  waters  maiiitaln  a  teinperatiuv  of 
about  7<>',  Rixl  an;  benilhial  in  nitaii^'ouH  dist  aNts.  *  (jreyloik  ilall  is  a 
lav^e  new  hotel  recently  (»])eiu'd  at  this  poi.it,  coninianding  jileawaiit  val- 
ley views.  A  siiort  walk  to  the  iV.  lett<ls  into  the  riiggetl  town  of  I'ownul, 
ill  tlie  State  of  Vtrniout. 

About  18  M.  N.  W.  (by  U.  U.)  isth'.'  Bennington  battle-field,  near  iloo- 
Kw.  Junction,  in  the  State  of  New  York. 

Mt.  Hopkins,  8.  of  WilliainHtown,  is  often  ascended  (2,800  ft.)  for  the 
f  ake  of  its  views  of  Greylock,  the  Ctreen  and  Taconic  Mts.  the  valleys  of 
tin-  Hoosac  ind  Green  Rivers,  and  the  far-iUstaiit  Hudson. 

The  Hopper  is  a  gulf  surrounded  by  a  vast  amphitheatre  of  mts.,  gained 
by  ;i  road  running  S.  from  the  colleges,  which  is  left  about  4  M.  out,  and 
a  wood-road  is  followed  uii  the  glen  in  which  flows  Money  Urook.  The 
three  walls  of  the  Hopper  are  Hald  Mt.  (S.),  Prospect  Mt.  (N.),  and 
(Jicylock  on  the  E.  Far  up  in  this  stupendous  gulf  are  the  finest  ea.sca<le.s 
in  lU-rkshire,  rarely  visited  and  difhcult  of  access.  A  noble  view  down 
tiie  Hopper  is  obtained  from  liald  Mt.  which  is  crossed  in  the  ascent  of 
(Jieylock,  sometimes  ascended  on  this  side. 

S.  Williamstown  (small  inn)  is  a  village  about  midway  {2h  M.)  between 
the  Greylock  grouj)  on  the  E.  and  the  New  York  Mt.  of  Berlin  on  the  N. 
W.  The  Snow  Glen  (wliere  snow  remains  always)  and  Flora's  Glcu 
(wlicre  William  CuUen  Bryant  composed  "  Thanatojisis  "  while  a  student 
at  Williams  College,  and  but  18  years  old;  it  was  first  jiublished  5  years 
alter,  in  1817,  in  the  "North  American  Review  " )  are  favorite  resorts  near 
Williamstown. 

The  Troy  and  Hostoii  R.  R.  runs  to  Troy,  in  New  Yc"  ,  44  M.  from  "beautiful 
Williunistown  on  her  cla.s»ic  heiyhts." 

24.  New  York  to  Quebec. 

Also  New  Haven,  nurtfonl,  and  Sitrin^iliild  to  Montreal,  Ouebec,  and  the 
FiaiK'onia  Mts.  Distances,  New  York  to  Queliec,  5'JO  M.  •  to  Ljuxc  Memjihreina- 
go^',  a<J5  M.  ;  New  Haven  to  Quebec,  45.'i  M.  ;  Hartford  to  Quebec,  417  M.  ; 
bprinylield  .o  Quebec,  31»1  M  ;  Sprinyfield  to  Lake  Menii>lireniagoy,  li^D  M. 

The  line  between  New  York  and  Springfield  is  described  in  Route  21. 
In  the  station  at  Springfield  the  traveller  leaves  the  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton train,  and  gets  into  the  cars  of  the  Conn.  River  R.  R.  Time  is  usually 
allowed  for  refreshments  (small  restaurant  in  the  station;  if  time  allows, 
the  best  dinner  in  New  England  may  be  obtained  in  the  Massasoit  House, 
alongside  the  station). 

The  first  station  N.  of  Springfield  is  Chioopee  {Cabot  House).  The 
Dwight  Go's,  Cotton  Mills,  at  this  place,  employ  2,000  hands,  with  70,000 
spindles,  and  make  ^  20,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly.  The  Ames 
Manufacturing  Co.  employ  4-500  men  in  makhig  machinery,  brass  can- 
non, fine  swords,  and  bronze  statuary.     The  equestrian  statue  of  Wash- 


li 


■^; 


i 


V. 


158    RcmU^l 


NKW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


inf^on,  at  Boston,  many  soldie.'s'  monuments,  and  the  superb  bronzo 
floors  of  the  Senate  at  Wasliington  were  cast  here.  The  doors  of  the 
House  pf  Keprcstintatives  were  cast  at  Munich,  and  those  of  the  Senate 
were  to  have  been  made  there,  but  the  over-prudent  Bavarians  demanded 
prepayment  from  th.;  U.  S.  Government  (it  was  the  darlccst  year  of  the 
Secession  War).  With  a  i)roper  spirit  this  was  refused,  and  the  work 
was  givn  to  the  Cliicopee  Foundry,  thougli  but  little  was  IcMied  from  it. 
To  tlie  surprise  of  all,  the  doors  wore  finished  admirably,  and  challenge 
comparison  with  the  best  of  Munich  work.  During  the  Rebellion,  this 
foundry  was  woi'ked  night  and  day,  and  suppl;i.d  the  Republic  with  vast 
amounts  of  shot  and  shell,  and  ovor  ],00C  cannon. 

At  Cliicopee  Falls,  2  M.  H,  are  cotton-mills  employing  1,000  hands, 
besides  large  factories  which  make  farmers'  tools. 

Station,  Willimansett,  about  2  M.  N.  of  which  is  S.  lladley  (S.  Iladle, 
Falls  Hotel),  a  pretty  village  on  a  hill  near  the  river.  This  is  the  seat  of 
the  famous  Mt.  Ilolyohe  Female  Seminary,  "  designed  to  give  a  solid, 
extensive,  and  well-b.ilanced  English  education,"  while  tlie  pupils  are  re- 
quired to  do  the  general  housework  of  the  institution,  for  the  sake  of  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  that  useful  art.  After  leaving  Willimansett,  the 
line  crosses  the  Coimecticut  and  stops  at  Holyoke  Station  {Ilolyohe 
House  ;  Samoset  House).  This  is  a  rapidly  growing  manufacturing  place 
of  11 -12,000  inhabitants,  and  is  located  at  the  South  lladley  Falls, 
which  furnish  the  greatest  water-power  in  New  England.  Timothy  Dwight 
speaks  of  "  the  fantastic  beauty,  excessive  force,  and  sublime  majesty  of 
these  Falls  Until  I  visited  this  spot,  I  kncAv  not  that  it  was  possible  for 
water  to  become  so  beautiful  an  object."  Within  1^  M.  the  river  falls  6C 
ft.,  and  opposite  the  town  a  dam  has  been  built  30  ft.  high  and  over  1,000 
It.  long,  throwing  the  water  into  a  canal  system  3  M.  in  aggregate  length- 
which  can  furnish  pr  ./er  enough  to  drive  1,000,000  spindles.  The  origi- 
nal dam  of  1 847  Avas  burst  away  before  the  water  had  fdled  it,  and  the 
jircsent  one  (1849)  contains  4,000,000  ft.  of  lumber,  spiked  to  the  ledges 
on  the  botton  of  the  river,  and  plated  with  boiler-iron.  Tlie  leading 
staple  of  Holyoke  is  paper  of  all  sort?,  of  which  about  5,000  tons  are 
made  annually  by  800  v/orkmen.  750  men  are  engaged  in  the  thread 
mills;  450  in  making  woollen  cloths  (beavers,  doeskins,  and  cassimeres); 
and  about  2,000  operaiives  make  5-0,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths, 
prints.  &c.,  yearly. 

Holyoke  has  about  11,000  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  the  river.  It  is  now  building  a  new  Town  House,  at  an  expense  of 
$  170,000,  and  otherAnse  adorning  its  streets,  which  run  along  the  E.  side 
of  a  hill. 

At  IihjlesiJe,  2^  M.  from  Holyoke,  is  a  favorite  sumuier-resort  upon  the  high- 
lands which  overlook  the  valley. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEDEC.         R'-cUQl     159 


)erb  l)ronzo 
oors  of  tho 
the  Senalo 
s  demaiuuHl 
year  of  the 
cl  the  work 
ted  from  it, 
il  clialler.ge 
bellion,  tliis 
c  with  vast 

,000  hands, 

'  (S.  Iladlo, 

the  seat  of 

ive  a  solid, 

ipils  are  re- 

e  sake  of  a 

nansett,  tlie 

in   ( Uolyoke 

turing  jdace 

idley  Falls, 

jthy  Dwight 

majesty  of 

possible  for 

•iver  falls  6C 

d  over  1,000 

gate  length- 

The  origi- 

It,  and  the 

the  ledges 

Tlie  leading 

)00  tons  are 

the  thread 

eassimeres) ; 

tton  cloths, 

1  three  sides 

expense  of 

the  E.  side 


pon  the  high- 


The  railroad  passes  ont  in  full  view  of  the  great  dam,  whose  fine  water- 
«  fall  has  been  removed  by  the  necessity  of  1  uildiiig  out  an  ineline'd  j)lane, 
to  prevent  tlic  eating  out  of  tlie  ledges  by  the  heavy  peipendicular  fall. 

After  leaving  Ilolyoke  the  line  nnis  N,  between  the  river  and  tho  long 

rimgo  of  Mt.  Turn  (on  the  1,),  while  J//,  lh>hjr.1:c  is  seen  ahead  on  tlia  r. 

Tlie  train  now  jiasses  through  the  gap  between  these  two  nits,,  and  xVm- 

lierst  and  Mt,  Warner  are  visible  on  tho  r,  front,  leagues  away  over  tho 

rich  vrdley,  while  Easthampton  and  Pomeroy's  Mt,  are  scon  on  the  1. 

The  line  crosses  the  river  to  Ox  Bow  Island,  which  was  a  peninsula  until 

1S40,  when  a  rush  of  the  swollen  river  cut  through  its  isthmus.     After 

crossing  the  rich   intervales  bordering   on    the  river,  the  train  enters 

Northampton. 

Noiiotuck  was  bonj^ht  of  its  Indian  owners,  in  1G53,  for  100  fathoms  of  wampum, 
10  coats,  &(•,,  jinil  was  iianu'(l  Nortlinni])ton,  since  many  of  its  settlei-s  camo  t'roni 
tliat  En><lisli  town.  .Solomon  iStodilanl  was  for  ;J0  years  pastor  here,  ami  was  a 
man  of  j^'ravo  and  majestic  appe  iranee.  He  rode  once  throu;,'li  an  aml>usli  in  tho 
forest,  ami  when  the  French  soldiers  were  ahont  to  shoot  iiim,  the  awe-strucl;  In- 
dians stoojied  them,  savin,!,',  "That  is  the  Enf^ishmen's  God,"  The  villaije  wan 
svuTonndcd  hy  a  palisade  and  wall,  which,  however,  was  stormed  in  three  jdaeea 
liy  Kint?  Philip's  Indians  (1070).  Tl'ree  veteran  eonipanies  were  del'-ndin.:^  tluj 
})iaee,  and  after  a  desperate  eonllict  in  the  streets  the  assailants  were  driven  out. 
The  church  was  built  in  lUoo,  at  a  cost  of  ii  14,  and  was  "20  ft,  by  18.  The  present 
old  church  is  the  fourth  on  that  site.  The  Christians  were  called  to  meeting;  by 
the  blasts  of  a  trumpet  : 

"  Each  innn  eniiipp'"!  on  Sunday  mom,  And  looked  in  form-  ns  nil  mn.it  prant. 

With  psuliuuucik,  shut,  and  powder-huiii,      Like  th  ancieut  truu  church  militant." 

McriNOAL, 

In  the  old  er meterv'are  1  ried  4  Senators  nf  the  United  Stjdes,  —  Ashmun,  Mills, 
Bates,  and  rttroiiR,  the  latter  of  whom  was  for  11  years  (lov.  of  Mass.,  and.  opj)os- 
ing  the  War  of  1S12,  limited  the  exertions  of  tho  iState  to  her  own  defence.  Hero 
also  is  l)uried  David  Hrainerd,  a  heroic  and  jinwerful  missionary  to  the  Indians, 
author  of  "  Mirabilia  Dei  apud  Indi(50s,"  and  son-in-law  of  .lonathan  Edwards. 
Edwards  was  pisbtr  here,  1727 -Til),  and  "was  dismissed  fcjr  insisting  on  a  higher 
and  purer  standard  of  ailiuission  to  the  eojumunion  tabic"  The  Dwiirhts.  Aliens, 
and  Ti'ppans  were  Northampton  families  jirolitic  in  altln  men,  and  W.  D.  Whit- 
ney, the  leading  American  iiKiluloyiat  (ono  ot  the  tincsL  yanscrit  Bchoiara  iu  the 
world)  was  bom  liere  in  1827. 

Northampton  (*  Fitch's  Hotel ;  Mansion  House  ;  Warner  House)  "  is 
the  frontispiece  of  the  book  of  beauty  which  Nature  opens  wide  in  the 
valley  of  the  Conn,"  An  Engli.sh  tourist  (Stuart,  in  1833)  calls  it  "the 
most  beautiful  village  in  America."  Its  broatl  and  shaded  streets  and 
handsome  villas  are  placed  in  a  rich  tract  of  broad  intervale  and  about  1 
M.  from  the  river.  Tliere  are  a  number  of  stores  and  public  buildings  on 
the  broad  street  near  Fitcli's  Hotel  (anew  and  extensive  housa),  and  in 
this  vicinity  is  the  brownstone  building  occupied  by  the  Trustees  of  the 
Hnxilh  Chanties. 

Oliver  «mith,  of  Hmfield,  died  in  1845,  leaving  $370,000  for  charitable  objects. 
The  youths  and  maidens  and  widows  of  the  eight  adjacent  towns  receive,  under 
certain  conditions,  loans,  dowries,  and  small  pensifni..  from  this  fund.  By  skill- 
ful management  on  the  part  of  the  Trustees  (who  are  chosen  by  elec^tors  from  the 
eight  towns),  the  funds  had  increased  by  1800  to  §854,000,  and  by  tlie  terms  of 


I " 


J 


»'■      i 


IGO    Hvuie24.         NEW  YOUlv  TO  QUEBEC. 

Mr.  Smith's  will,  the  whole  amount  (whatever  it  may  be  at  that  time)  is  to  be  do- 
voted  to  the  estalilishmt'iit  of  an  aj/ri cultural  school  in  this  town  in  the  year  1906. 

The  Fariniu^'ton  Canal  w.i.s  conipleted  in  1831,  at  a  cost  of  $GOO,000.  It  was  78 
M.  lonjr,  running  from  Xorthamiit'iu  to  New  Haven,  and  has  been  disused  since 
the  railroads  were  built. 

The  New  Haven  and  Northampton  Railroad  (Route  lo)  runs  hence  to  New 
Haven  (70  M.)  in  3-3^  houis.     Also  to  Williamsburg,  0  M.  N.  W. 

On  a  beautiful  liill  W.  cf  the  village,  and  surrounded  by  groves  of 
forest  trees,  is  the  large  and  imposing  *  Jlmind  Hill  Water-Cure  and 
Hotel  (open  all  the  year),  with  Tiu-kish  and  chemical  baths,  billiards, 
bowling,  a  band  of  music,  and  accommodations  for  200  guests.  This  site 
was  once  occupied  by  a  famous  classical  school,  the  Massachusetts  Eton, 
founded  in  1823  by  George  Bancroft,  the  historian,  and  J.  G.  Coggswell, 
the  author.  The  views  thence  are  very  extensive  and  jjleasing.  On  the 
same  hill  is  the  67fl>7je  7/?6Y<7«^iV;i /<//•  Mutes  (endowed  with  $300,000), 
which  teaches  the  system  of  articulation  in  place  of  the  sign  alphabet.  It 
accommodates  80-90  persons.  In  the  same  vicinity  (1  M.  W.  of  the 
village)  is  the  *  State  Lunatic  Asijluvi,  with  imposing  buildings  which 
pccommodate  350  patients.  Tliese  buildings  are  512  ft.  long,  and  have  4 
acres  of  floors,  and  are  under,  the  superintendence  of  Dr.  Pliny  Earle. 

Florence  is  2\  M.  W.  of  the  village,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  factories,  the 
f'Lief  of  Wiiich  is  that  o!  the  Florence  Sewing-Macliine  Co.  In  their  great  quad- 
rnigle  of  works  this  comi)any  makes  12-l.!),(tu0  sewinp-machines  yearly. 

Mt.  Tom  (more  properly  called  Nonotuck)  is  directly  S.  of  Northampton 
(4-5  M.  by  road).  It  is  200  ft.  higher  than  Mt.  Holyoke,  and  commands  a  wider 
view,  but  is  seldom  visited,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  its  ascent. 

*Mt.  Holyoke,  "the  gem  of  Mass.  Mts.,"  is  3  M.  S.  E.  from  North- 
ampton. A  carriage-road  winds  upward  to  the  summit,  but  the  usual 
route  is  by  horse-cars  from  the  ferry  to  the  mountain  railway,  up  which 
passengers  are  drawn  in  small  cars  by  a  stationary  engine.  Upon  the 
summit  a  small  hotel  was  built  in  1821,  whose  site  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Prospect  House.  18-20,000  persons  ascend  the  mt.  every  season. 
The  carriage  road  is  ^  M.  long,  and  the  railway,  in  its  COO  ft.  of  incline, 
vises  365  ft.  perpendicular.  Betwe",n  the  building  of  tlie  railway  in  1854 
and  its  remodelling  in  186(3, 125,000  persons  ascended  on  it.  The  summit 
is  1,120  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  830  ft.  above  the  river,  and  is  part  of  a 
greenstone  vidge  tunning  from  West  Rock  at  New  Haven  to  Belchertown. 
The  invincible  trap-rock  of  the  mount  resisted  the  glaciers  during  their 
long  grinding  attacks,  but  the  great  lake  which,  according  to  Indian  tra- 
dition, filled  the  basin  to  the  N,,  at  last  broke  away  between  Nonotuck 
and  Hoi  yoke,,  and  became  a  river.  Western  Mass.  is  underlaid  with 
gneiss,  but  the  Conn.  Valley  has  r.  belt  of  coarse,  new  red  sandatoue 
10  - 16  M.  wide,  of  the  Permian  and  Triassic  systems. 

From  this  peak  is  "  the  richest  *  *  view  in  New  England,  if  not  in  the 
U.  S."  It  has  often  been  called,  by  distinguished  visitors,  the  finest  view 
in  America.  .  . 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  2^     ICl 


')  is  to  be  (lo- 
;he  year  1906. 
0.  It  was  78 
lisused  since 

ence  to  New 


groves  of 
'.r-(Jure  and 
IS,  billiards, 
This  site 
isetts  Eton, 
,  Coggowell, 
ig.     On  the 

$300,000), 
phabet.     It 

W.  of  the 
lings  which 

and  have  4 
y  Earle. 

factories,  the 
r  Ki'eat  quad- 
irly. 

Northampton 
lands  a  wider 

from  North- 
it  the  usual 
ly,  up  which 
Upon  the 
occupied  by 
very  season. 
t.  of  incline, 
way  in  1854 
The  summit 
is  part  of  a 
Bel  chert  own. 
during  their 
Indian  tra- 
in Nonotuck 
derlaid  witlr 
!d  sandstone 

f  not  in  the 
le  finest  view 


On  the  S.  are  seen  numerous  villages  in  the  valley,  Spria^jfieid,  the  gracoful 
sinuosities  of  the  broad  river,  the  distant  spires  of  Hartford  (40  M.).  the  Blue  and 
tiie  Lyme  Mts.,  and  East  and  West  Rocks  at  New  Haven  (70  M.).  ti-  W.,  beyond 
Mt.  Tom,  are  glimpses  of  the  valley  of  WestflcKl  lliver.  and  on  the  W.  i'om- 
eroy's  Mt.  and  the  high  hills  of  Hampshire  and  Central  Berkshire  are  seen.  N. 
W  are  8,000  acres  of  ganleu-like  n:eadow3,  witl*  Nortiiampton  directly  over  them, 
and  above  the  village,  4'J  M.  away,  is  Greyiock.  "  in  ilim  and  misty  grandeur." 
Fa.thcr  to  the  r.  the  hills  of  Franklin  County  arc  st^cn,  ('.(Muinated  by  Mts.  Toby 
and  Sugar  Loaf,  while  in  the  far  N.  the  blue  jieaks  of  the  Green  Mts.  overlook  all. 
The  great  lacustrine  basiu  of  the  Conn.,  20  M.  by  15,  is  nearer,  in  the  N.,  with  fair 
Hadley  on  its  "  plaided  meadows,"  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  and  Hattield  just  across 
the  river  and  intervales,  under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Warner  (to  the  r.).  0  .M.  N.  K. 
is  Amherst  with  its  colleges,  and  beyond,  "far  in  the  N.  E.,  rises  in  insulated 
grandeur  the  cloud-capped  Monadnock  "  (uO  M).  In  the  E.  Mt.  Wachusett  (35  M. 
away)  rises  above  the  crowd  of  hills  which  till  the  E.  and  S.  E.  38  towns  are 
seen  from  this  lofty  peak,  with  parti  of  4  States. 

There  are  good  views  from  other  i)eaks  of  the  Ilolyoke  Range  (whicli  is  9  M. 
long),  and  at  its  W.  end  are  lofty  clitts  of  columnar  basalt  which  have  been  named 
the  Titan's  Piers. 

In  104-2  Capt.  Holyoke.  on  the  1.  bank,  and  Rowland  Thomas  on  the  r.  bank,  led 
exploring  parties  up  the  Conn,  valley.  Tiiey  arc  s-iul  to  have  met  near  this 
mount,  and  lo  have  talked  across  the  river  at  Rock  Ferry,  when  Holyoke  gave  his 
name  to  the  mount  near  him,  and  Thomas  gave  his  name  to  the  one  on  his  side  of 
the  river.  The  people  have  not  assented  to  the  self-asserting  spirit  shown  in  this 
•tradition,  for  Mt.  Holyoke  is  usually  associated  with  the  learned  classical  scholar 
of  that  name  who  was  President  »>f  Harvard  College,  1737 -U'.',  while  the  other 
name  has  been  cliitped  into  -Mt.  Tom,  and  its  ancient  Indian  name,  "  Nonotuck," 
is  now  gaining  ground  in  tlie  countryside. 

Old  Hadley  is  3  M,  N.  E.  of  Northampton,  over  the  river,  and  lies  on 
the  E.  of  a  ricli  and  level  intervale,  containing  2  -  3,000  acres,  which  is  an- 
nually overflowed  by  the  river.  The  Connecticut  here  makes  a  curve  of 
7  M.  to  accomplish  1  M.  of  direct  course,  and  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  is 
crossed  by  the  street  of  Hadley .  West  Street  was  laid  out  before  the 
settlement  as  1  M.  long  and  20  rods  wide,  but  by  the  encroachments  of 
the  river  and  the  inhabitants,  it  has  been  reduced  to  a  length  of  300  rods 
and  a  width  of  about  IG  rods.  This  wide,  park-iike  *  street  is  adorned 
with  about  900  ancient  elm-trees,  4  lines  of  v/liich  stretch  from  river  to 
river,  and  is  called  "  the  handsomest  street  by  nature  in  New  England." 
Middle  and  Ea.st  Sts.  are  also  wide  and  shaded  avenues,  rui'.ning  N, 
and  S.  On  the  meadows  near  this  charming  rural  village  great  quantities 
of  broom-corn  are  raised,  which,  with  much  of  the  same  material  im- 
ported from  the  West,  is  made  into  broom.s  and  brushes.  This  industry 
was  commenced  in  1790,  and  now  amounts  to  over  $200,000  a  year. 

In  1650,  fierce  theological  discussions  were  carried  on  at  Hartford,  and  many  of 
its  wealthier  families  left  the  place  in  search  of  peace  and  good-will,  and  settled 
on  the  Indian  domain  of  Norwottock,  whi(!h  they  named  in  honor  of  Hadleigh,  in 
Sutfolk,  England.  In  1(504  (Joffe  and  Whalley,  two  generals  of  the  Army  of 
Parliament,  and  judges  of  the  cour^  which  put  King  Charles  I.  to  death,  came  here 
and  lived  for  15  years  concealed  in  the  pastor's  house.  They  had  been  forced  to 
fly  for  their  lives  after  the  Restoration,  and  after  3J  years  of  hiding  about  New 
Haven  they  came  to  Hadley.  Their  pres'^nce  here  was  only  known  of  by  three 
citizens.  On  Sept.  1,  1075,  while  the  people  were  assembled  in  the  church,  in 
fasting  and  prayer,  the  town  was  attacked  by  swarms  of  Indians.  After  a  sharp 
light,  the  English  gave  way,  when  Gen.  Goffe,  "an  ancient  man  with  hoary  locks, 
of  a  most  venerable  and  dignified  aspect,"  appeared  suddenly,  commanded  and 

K 


1G2    liouu 


■-}  / 


NEW  VOllK  TO  QUEBEC. 


1. 


*r 


"i 


led  a  fresh  attack  by  the  people,  ami  scattered  the  disjiiayed  Indians  in  all  direc- 
tions. He  then  disappeared  to  his  hiiliny-place,  and  the  astonished  vilhigers,  for 
nianj  years,  attributed  their  dcliveran<>('  1o  the  visit  of  a  militant  angel.  Gen. 
Wlialley  diofl  iicre,  and  was  buried,  in  \(u'.\  and  Cioffe  died  a  few  years  later. 

In  1076  700  Indians  attacked  the  town  just  after  the  Falls  Fight,  but  after  a 
lon>j;and  bilter  struggle  they  were  repelled  with  sievcre  losses. 

F.  U.  Huntington.  Kitiscojiai  Bisho])  of  Contrn'  Now  York,  was  a  native  of  this 
village.  Joseph  Hooker,  "  Fighting  . Too,"  was  born  at  Hadley  in  1815.  He  was 
distinguished  at  the  battles  of  Monterey  and  Chapultepec,  in  the  Mexican  War, 
and  bore  high  commands  during  the  Seee.s.sion  "War.  At  Antietani,  he  commanded 
the  r.  of  the  army,  and  afterwards,  at  the  head  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  he 
was  defeated  in  a  h)ng  and  terrible  battle  at  Ciianrfdlorsvillc,  Va.,  losing  16,000 
men.  In  1863-4  he  did  brilliant  service  in  the  battles  resultant  on  the  reoccu- 
jiation  of  Georgia  and  Alabama  by  the  National  armies. 

Hatfield  (Ilaljield  Ifousc)  is  al)out  5  M.  from  Northampton.  It  is  a 
small  and  beautiful  village  1^  M.  N.  of  Old  Hadloy,  and  i.s  noted  for  its 
early  battles.  In  1675  it  was  attacked  liy  800  Indian.s,  but  the  veteran 
companies  of  Moseley  and  Pike  fouglit  desperately  amid  the  burning 
houses,  and  held  the  town  till  succor  came,  sutfering  heavy  losses.  In 
May,  1676,  600  Indiaii  5  attacked  the  place,  and  destroyed  many  houses, 
nnd  in  1677  it  was  taken  by  a  flotilla,  wliose  men  carried  the  riverward 
palisades,  and  killed  and  captured  24  persons. 

Easthampton  (see  Route  15)  is  4  M.  S.  W.  of  Northampton.  Amherst  (see 
Route  12)  is  7  M.  N.  E.,  on  the  road  which  crosses  the  river  on  a  bridge  1,080  ft. 
long,  and  passes  through  Old  Hadley. 

After  leaving  Northampton,  the  Conn.  River  Railroad  passes  near  the 
Great  Bend  of  the  Conn,  in  siglit  of  Old  Hadley  (to  the  r. ),  then  diverges 
from  the  river,  ■'/hich  is  not  seen  again  for  30  M.  Station,  Hatfield,  be- 
yond which  the  track  runs  near  the  base-line  of  the  State  Trigonometrical 
Survey  (39,009.73  ft.  long),  which  is  laid  along  the  plains  of  Hatfield  and 
Whately  (on  the  r.).  Stations,  X.  Hatfield  and  Whatcbj  (^Vhately 
House),  whose  village  is  seen  in  the  W.  Beyond  the  village  is  the  far- 
viewing  Mt.  Estlier,  and  tlie  picturesque  Whately  Glen,  witli  its  cascades. 

The  train  passes  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  and  stops  at  S.  Deerfield  (small  hotel). 
A  road  leads  from  the  village  to  the  Mountain  House,  on  the  summit  of 
the  conical  S.  peak  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.,  which  rise3  sheer  from  the 
meadows  and  near  the  river.  From  this  point  is  visible  the  broad,  rich 
valley,  with  its  villages  of  Amherst,  Hadley,  Hatfield,  Northampton,  and 
several  others,  with  Holyoke  seen  beyond  the  Titanic  gateway  between 
Nonotuck  and  Mt.  Holyoke.  Close  at  hand  on  the  E.  is  Sunderland, 
under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Toby. 

The  rich  and  peaceful  valley  seen  from  Sugar  Loaf  was  the  scene  of  the  bloodiest 
tragedies  of  King  Philip's  ami  the  liter  Indian  wars.  King  Philip  directed  the 
movements  of  tlic  western  Indians  fromliis  head-quarters  on  this  peak,  — so  runs 
traditio.i.  Table  Rock  is  a  beetling  clitt'on  the  E.  side,  beneath  wluch  is  a  seat 
cut  in  the  rock,  called  King  Philip's  Chair  (see  Bristol,  R.  I.).  A  sharp  skirmish 
took  place  just  S.  of  the  Mt.,  in  August,  1675,  when  26  Indians  and  10  colonists 
were  killed. 

In  the  Is.  part  of  S.  Deerfield  village  is  a  monument  on  the  Blooihi  Brook  hattle- 
fidd.    tiept.  18,  167^,  Capt.  Lathrop  and  84  men  were  convoying  a  train  of  grain- 


i  ill  all  direc- 
villfigera,  for 
angel.     Gen. 

IS  later. 

,  but  after  a 

native  of  thi.s 
815.  He  was 
Mexican  War, 
e  comnianrled 
Potomac,  he 
losing  16,000 
1  the  reot'cu- 

on.  It  is  a 
oted  for  its 

the  veteran 
the   burning 

losses.  In 
any  houses, 
le  riverward 


Amherst  (see 
idge  1,080  ft. 

5es  near  the 
lien  diverges 
Hatfield,  be- 
^ononietrical 
Hatfield  and 
y  (AVliately 
e  is  the  far- 
its  cascades, 
small  hotel), 
summit  of 
er  from  the 
!  broad,  rich 
ampton,  and 
vay  ])etween 
Sunderland, 


the  bloodiest 

directed  the 

a,k,  —  so  runs 

ich  is  a  seat 

larp  skiiinisli 

10  colonists 

/  Brook  huttk- 
rain  of  graiu- 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBE'".  Route  24.     1G3 

w.igons  from  ruhied  Dcerfleld  to  Hadley,  and  as  they  passed  over  n  small  Irrook, 
tliey  stopped  to  rest  and  pick  the  wild  grapes  win,  h  hung  in  clusters  over  its 
watt'ii.  While  thus  disbanded,  they  were  suddenly  attacked  by  7<I0  Indian 
warriors.  Lathrop  ordered  his  men  to  take  refuge  behind  the  trees  and  fire  from 
their  slielter,  but  they  were  speedily  enveloped  by  the  enemy,  and  but  7  men  es- 
cajied  the  general  massacre,  whicli  includetl  the  teamsters  and  reajjcrs  and  70 
soldiers.  Oapt.  Moseley,  "an  old  Jamaica  buccaneer,"  manlied  rapidly  to  the 
Sf  ind  of  the  volleys,  and  charged  and  recliarged  in  .solid  rompany  front  through 
the  lieathen  swarms.  Major  Treat  and  100  Moheganaiid  Peipiot  Indians  (allies  of 
tlie  Ihiglish)  also  marched  up  from  iladley,  and  9(3  of  the  hostile  warriors  were 
kilk'd  on  the  field. 

A  rude  monument  was  soon  erected  here,  and  in  lS3r)  the  people  of  5  towns  as- 
sembled and  (ledicated  a  fine  marble  monument,  with  an  address  by  Edward 
Everett. 

"  In  the  country,  districts  that  nestle  in  the  dells  .seem  to  have  been  there  for 
ten  centuries  at  least  ;  and  it  gives  one  a  shock  to  light  on  such  a  i>lace  as  Bloody 
Brook,  and  to  be  told  that  only  100  years  ago  Capt.  Lathrop  was  slain  here  by 
Bed  Indians,  with  80  youth,  'the  flower  of  Essex  County,'  as  the  old  Puritan 
histories  say."    (.Sir  Charles  Dilke.) 

About  5  M.  N.  passing  (on  the  r. )  the  monument,  and  tlien  the  long 
ridge  of  Deertield  Mt.,  the  line  approaches  the  Deerfield  River,  and  stops 
at  Old  Deerileld  (Pocomtnck  hDuse,  good).  Tliis  place  was  settled  by 
men  of  Dedliam  in  1670,  on  tlie  Indian  doniain  of  Pocomtuck,  and  was 
named  from  the  abundance  of  deer  found  in  its  forests. 

Sept.  1,  1675,  the  village  was  attacked  and  burnt,  and  then  abandoned.  It  was 
a'ter  harvesting  its  deserted  fields  that  sucli  di.siuster  befell  at  Bloody  Brook,  "  n 
choice  company  of  young  men,  tlie  very  flower  of  Essex  County,  none  of  whome 
were  ashameil  to  speak  with  the  enemy  in  the  gate."  In  1G1»7  a  fresh  attack  was 
made,  but  it  was  rei)ulsed  by  tlie  peojjle,  headed  by  their  i)astor.  Rev.  John  Wil- 
liams. Feb.  29,  1704,  while  the  watch  was  sleeping,  and  the  snow  had  drifted 
over  the  jialisades,  2  liours  lu^t'ore  iliylight,  the  place  was  attiicked  by  Major  de 
Rouville,  with  'MO  French  and  Indians.  Tlie  walls  were  easily  jiassed,  and  a  ter- 
rible scene  of  slaugliter,  jiiliage,  and  conflagration  ensued,  which  lasted  for  three 
hours.  But  one  house  escaped,  and  it-'  lonpholes  were  guarded  by  7  bold  colo- 
nists, whose  wives  were  casting  Vmllets  for  their  guns.  47  English  were  killed, 
and  180  taken  prisonera.  A  few  escai)ed,  and  alarmed  the  lower  towns,  and  Hat- 
field .sent  a  force  in  pursuit,  which  overtook  and  was  defeated  by  De  Rouville  on 
the  same  day.  Mrs.  Williams  was  murdered  in  the  Leydcii  tJoi-ge,  and  i>ther 
weakly  captives  soon  shared  her  late.  On  the  first  Sunday  of  their  march  north. 
Rev.  John  Williams  preached  from  the  text,  "My  virgins  and  my  young  men 
are  gone  into  captivity."  Arrived  in  Canada,  the  juisoners  were  forced  to  attend 
Roman  Catholic  services,  and  Mr.  Williams  was  ollVred  his  freedom,  a  pension, 
and  his  children,  if  he  would  join  that  church.  He  sternly  refused,  but  2S  of  hi.s 
peoj)]e  chose  to  remain  in  Canada,  and  joined  the  Roman  Church,  "  whence  kindre<l 
blood  now  rattles  bad  Fremdi  in  Ca;iaila  or  sputters  Indian  in  tlie  N.  and  N.  W." 
The  captives  were  kindly  treated  by  the  Fi^-nch,  and  60  of  them  were  redeemed 
in  1706.  The  i)astor's  little  daughter,  Eunice  (7  years  old),  who  was  kept  by  the 
Indians,  afterwards  marrie.l  an  Indian  and  became  a  Catholic,  and  often  in  after 
ye;;rs  made  visits  to  DccrlicM  with  her  tribe.  Not  one  iota  of  regard  for  the  cus- 
toms of  civilized  life,  or  for  the  tenets  of  the  Puritan  Church,  remained  in  her 
heart.  Rev.  Eleazer  Williams,  the  jiretended  Dauphin  of  France,  and  Bourbon 
Prince  Royal,  a'oout  whom  (a  <iuiet  missionary  among  the  Indian.s)  tho  newspapers 
made  such  a  great  sfiiisation,  was  Eunice's  grandson. 

Tliis  laid  on  Deertield  was  a  crusade,  for  the  Mass.  Puritans  had  captured  a  ship 
which  was  bearing  a  bell  to  the  Catholic  Church  at  St.  Regis.  The  bell  was  hung 
in  the  Puritan  meeting-house  at  Deertield,  and  was  taken  thence  by  the  invaders, 
under  the  cai'e  of  their  chaplain.  It  was  can-ied  to  the  St.  Regis  Church  (near 
Potsdam,  iI^N.  New  York),  where  it  has  sounded  matins  and  vespers  for  nearly 
170  yeare.  The  same  De  Rouville  attacked  Deerfield  again  in  1710,  but  was  hand- 
somely repulsed. 


0 


" 


li 


* 

* 

1          ; 

'.      \ 

w   • 


1C4    Runic  21  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 

Among  the  natives  of  this  town  were  Richard  Hildreth,  the  gifted  liistorian  of 
the  U.  H.  ;  Edward  Hit(;heofk,  the  geologist,  and  President  of  Amherst  College  ; 
John  Williams,  D.  U,,  i)resent  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Conn.;  and  Gen.  Rufus 
Suxton. 

Ju.st  beyond  Deerfield,  the  railroad  reaches  the  Deerfidd  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a  bridge  750  ft.  long,  and  90  ft.  above  the  water.  This 
bridge  was  burnt  during  the  draft  riots  (in  Greenfield)  in  1864,  and  was 
rebuilt  in  six  weeks. 

Station,  Greenfield  (see  Route  25).  From  this  place  the  line  runs  N. 
E.  to  Bcrnordston,  a  small  village  under  the  shadow  of  West  Mt.  This 
cold  and  lofty  town  was  granted  in  1736  to  the  veterans  of  the  Falls 
Fight.  A  few  min.  after  passing  Bernardston  the  train  comes  in  sight  of 
the  Conn.  River,  and  reaches  the  station-house  at  S.  Vernon,  the  terminus 
of  the  Conn.  River  Line, 

The  train  now  passes  on  the  rails  of  tlie  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  Sta- 
tions, S.  Vernun,  Vernon,  and  Brattleboro,  see  Route  12.  Beyond 
Brattleboro  are  the  stations,  Dummerston,  Putney,  E.  Putney,  and  West- 
miyister,  which  pertain  to  small  hill-villages.  In  Putney  are  long  strata 
of  roofing-slate ;  and  the  rare  mineral  called  fluor  spar  (of  a  rich  emerald 
green)  is  found  in  tlie  E.  of  the  town.  In  1755  a  strong  timber  fort  was 
built  on  the  Great  Meadows  in  Putney,  which  protected  the  settlement 
until  the  conquest  of  Canada  rendered  it  unnecessary.  All  the  inhabitants 
lived  in  the  fort  in  small  houses. 

At  Westminster  occurred  a  sharp  skirmish  in  the  course  of  "  the  contest  be- 
tween Puritan  and  Patroon  "  (as  the  struggle  of  Vermont  against  the  royal  edict 
which  gave  her  to  New  York  has  been  termed).  The  royal  New  York  judges  were 
to  hold  court  here,  but  the  citizens  cajitured  the  Conrt-House,  March  13,  1775, 
and  were  only  dislodged  by  an  attack  at  midnight.  Several  Vermonters  were 
wounded,  two  of  them  mortally,  and  one  of  these  l..'s  inscribed  on  his  tomb- 
stone :  — 

••  nere  William  French  his  body  lies. 
For  Murder  his  blood  for  vcriBeancc  cries, 
King  Gcorpe  the  Third  his  Tory  crew 
Tha  with  u  bawl  his  head  shot  threw." 

The  oldest  church  in  Vermont  is  in  this  village  (1  M.  S.  of  the  station).  It  was 
built  in  1770,  and  has  been  secularized.  Across  the  river  from  Westminster  is  the 
old  frontier  town  of  Walpule  (see  Route  26). 

Station,  Bellows  Falls  (*  Island  House).  Tliis  was  a  favorite  Indian 
resort  because  of  the  great  numbers  of  salmon  and  shad  near  the  rapids. 
8  rods  S.  of  the  old  bridge,  on  the  W,  bank,  Schoolcraft  found  Indian 
hieroglyphs  on  the  rocks,  which  he  thinks  are  the  records  of  some  ancient 
battle.  The  village  was  named  for  Col.  Bellows,  the  founder  of  Walpole, 
and  great-grandfather  of  Dr.  H.  W.  Bellows.  The  river  falls  42  ft. 
within  ^  M.  near  the  village,  and  forms  white  and  impetuous  rapids, 
dashing  between  and  among  the  rocks  which  strew  the  river-bed.  In 
low  water  the  current  is  compressed  into  a  channel  of  16  ft.  in  width, 
between  two  large  rocks.    A  canal  J  M.  long  has  been  built  around  the 


NEW  YOKK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  24.     105 


1 1  liisturiiin  of 
herst  College  ; 
1   Gen.    Rufus 


River,  which 
water.  This 
864,  and  was 

line  runs  N. 

St  Mt.     This 

of  the  Falls 

es  in  sight  of 

the  terminus 

R.  R.  Sta- 
12.  Beyond 
ey,  and  West- 
e  long  strata 
rich  emerald 
iber  fort  was 
lie  settlement 
le  inhabitants 


the  contest  be- 
the  royal  edict 
)rk  judges  were 
tfarch  13,  1775. 
srmoiiters  were 
1  on  his  tonib- 


^tion).    It  was 
stminster  is  the 


ivorite  Indian 
,r  the  rapids, 
found  Indian 

some  ancient 
r  of  Walpole, 
■  falls   42  ft. 
tuous   rapids, 
*iver-l)ed.     In 

ft.  in  width, 
ilt  around  the 


falls,  aud  on  the  water-power  thus  afforded,  several  factories  arc  located. 
Opposite  the  falls  is  Mt.  Kilbnrn,  a  wooded  eminence  which  gives  a  pretty 
view  of  the  river  and  village.  The  old  name  of  this  hill  was  Fall  Idt., 
but  President  Hitchcock  and  a  large  delegation  of  students  from  Amherst 
and  Middlcbury  Colleges  met  here  in  185(5,  and  named  it  Mt,  Kilbuni,  in 
honor  of  a  brave  frontiersi.ian.  The  Fall  Mt.  House  is  situated  at  tho 
foot  of  this  eminence. 

Pleasant  cxnirsions  are  made  by  the  summer  visitors  here,  to  Warren's  Podd, 
in  Alstead,  N.  II.  ;  to  tlie  Ahcna/iuis  Mineral  Spring.'^ ;  and  to  IVrMiiiinder. 

From  Bellows  Falls  tiie  Cheshire  P.  R.  runs  S.  E.  to  FitdilmrK'  and  Boston  (114 
M.),  and  the  Rutland  and  Burlinytou  R.  R.  goes  to  Burlington  (143  M.  bco 
Route  JC). 

Tlie  train  crosses  the  Conn.  River  into  the  State  of  N<nv  Hampshire, 

and  runs  through  tlie  long  river-town  of  Charlestowti,  with  3  pleasant 

villages  aud  3  inns. 

This  town  was  settled  under  the  authority  and  by  the  people  of  Massaehuseits. 
in  1740,  and  was  nanieil  Number  Four.  A  garrisoned  fort  was  located  here,  and 
between  174(>  and  1760  the  enemy  eommitted  many  depredations  in  the  vicinity. 
The  fort  was  foniially  besieged  ill  August,  1740,  and  after  a  suecessful  defence,  tlio 
garrison  and  eolnnisfs  abandnned  the  place.  In  1747,  Capt.  Stevens  reoceupied  it 
with  :30  men,  under  orders  from  the  Mass.  government.  He  was  soon  attacked  by 
Debeline,  a  skilful  ])artisan,  with  400  Freneh  and  Indians,  wlio  besieged  tlie  Fort  for 
three  days,  e.xliaustiiig  every  ai)i)lianee  of  craft  and  tactics.  Debeline  threatened 
■o  nia.ssaere  the  garrison  unless  they  surrendered,  but  they  sent  back  a  deliant 
answer,  and  a  long  and  desperate  attack  followed.  Tlie  lieroic  handful  of  i>rt)- 
vinoiala  nuiltiplied  themselves  and  rejjelled  the  attacks  on  every  side,  luitil  tho 
enemy  withdrew  and  retreated  to  Canada.  Capt.  Stevens  was  highly  honored  by 
the  people,  and  Conunodore  Sir  Charles  Knowlcs,  whose  ship  then  lay  at  Boston, 
sent  him  an  elegant  sword.  Wlien  the  tract  was  resettled,  it  was  called  Ciiarles- 
town,  in  honor  of  Sir  Charles.  During  the  later  French  wars  this  was  the  prin- 
cipal statioTi  on  the  militaiy  road  betwe(Mi  the  New  England  coast  and  Tieouderoga 
and  Montreal.     Tlie  remains  of  the  Fort  were  plainly  i)erceptible  iu  ISIO. 

Charlestown  village  is  situated  between  two  broad,  rich  meadows,  and 
has  some  neat  buildmgs,  on  a  long,  wide,  well-shaded  .street.  "  Its  se- 
cluded loveliness  is  calculated  to  awaken  the  adnuration  of  the  traveller." 
Across  the  river  is  the  town  of  Springfield  (iSjjrinff field  House),  v,-iih 
some  romantic  scenery  on  the  Black  River,  whicli  falls  110  ft.  in  GOO  It., 
with  one  sheer  fall  of  50  ft.  The  deep,  narrow  ravines  and  cafions  cut  by 
this  river  in  the  slate  rocks  are  very  picturesque. 

Station,  Clareinont  Junction,  soon  after  leaving  winch  the  line  crosses 
Sugar  River  by  a  bridge  600  ft.  long  and  105  ft.  above  the  water.  Tlio 
rich  intervales  of  the  Conn,  are  now  crossed,  with  Ascutney  Mt.  on  the 
1.,  and  the  train  passes  over  the  river  on  a  bridge  whose  predecessor  was 
carried  away  by  ice  in  1866.  Station,  irmcifsor  (Windsor  House),  a  pretty 
village  on  liighlaTids  over  the  river  and  near  the  foot  of  Ascutney.  It  is 
a  flourishing  town,  with  some  manufactures  and  a  large  country  trade. 
It  lias  4  churches,  a  bank,  2  weekly  papers,  a  fine  Government  building 
used  for  U.  S.  Courts  and  Post  Office,  and  the  Vermont  State  Prison 
(which    usually  has  70  -  90  prisoners).     At  Windsor,  during  a  fearful 


') 


•( 


I 


il 


i 


106    Route  24.  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 

thuiider-stonn,  and  with  the  appalling  news  of  the  fall  of  Fort  Ticondc- 
roga  ringing  in  their  ears,  the  dei)uti(!s  of  the  Vermont  towns  adoi)ted  tlio 
constitution  of  the  State,  July  2,  1777. 

Aflcutney  Mt.  lies  8.  E.  of  tlio  village.  A  road  has  been  eonstrurted  to  tlie 
suinniit  (o  M.),  and  a  small  house  has  Iteeii  built  there  for  a  shelter.  Horses  and 
guide.s  from  tin'  Windsor  IIoiis(>.  A  lino  view  is  obtained  from  this  isolated 
neak,  whicli  is  .';,;i20  It.  above  tlie  .sea.  In  the  W.  and  N.  \V.  are  Shrewsbury  nn<l 
Killington  l'eal<s,  n(;ar  Rutland,  while  the  Green  Mt.  chain  runs  off  to  the  N.  in 
a  lon;^  line  of  roinided  summits.  Tlu!  hill  towns  of  Wiudhani  Co.  are  seen  in  the 
N.,  and  the  (Jdmh.  River  and  valley  close  at  hand  in  tiie  K.  stret(di  away  to  the 
N.  and  S.  tln-ou^di  a  ideas.int  farmin_^'  country.  Croydon,  Snnajjeo,  and  Kearsarge, 
Mts.  arc  seen  in  the  E.,  the  latter  bein.i,'  dindy  outlined  on  the  horizon.  The  In- 
dian name  Asciitney  means  "Three  Ihothers,"  and  is  siipitoscd  to  refer  to  three 
8inguh:r  valleys  which  run  down  the  W.  slope  of  the  Mt.  There  are  marks  of 
volcanic  action  here,  and  the  early  settlers  ol'ten  saw  a  lurid  light  hanging  over 
the  siunmit  on  winter  ni;^dits.  Daily  stages  rim  to  Cornish  and  I'hiinfield,  N.  H.  ; 
also  to  W.  Windsor,  Reading  (I'J  M.),  jnul  I'roctorsville  (2-'  M.). 

Salmon  1'.  Chase  was  born  ,d,  Cornish  in  18"8.  His  father  was  a  prominent 
Portland  lawyia-  ;  his  uncle,  I'  lley Chase,  was  I'.  H.  .Senator,  181:5-17,  aiid  1825- 
31  ;  and  his  un<le,  Philande;  i  ha.se,  was  Prot.-Epis.  Bishop  of  Olno,  1819-;n, 
and  of  Illinois  in  I8;j,'j-.'J2.  (These  three,  togetlier  with  their  brothers,  Barucli 
and  Ileber  Cha.se,  were  born  at  Cornish,  and  graduate<l  from  Dartmouth  Colle;:'e.) 
He  settled  in  Ohio  about  18;!0  in  the  jiractiee  of  law,  became  a  leader  in  the  anti- 
slavery  movement,  and  was  U.  H.  .Senator,  1  S!40  -  .').5,  and  Governor  of  Ohio,  1855  -  59. 
In  18G1  ho  became  .Secretary  of  the  U.  S.  1  'e.isury,  antl  rendered  great  service  to 
the  Union  by  his  skilful  linancial  jtolicy  ci  ring  the  Rebellion.  He  resigned  in 
18G4,  and  late  in  the  same  year  was  made  <.  tiiei  Juslice  of  the  United  States.  On 
May  7,  1873,  Mr.  Cliase  died  in  Nc  v.-  York  City. 

Stations  beyond  Windsor,  JIartland,  N.  Ilartland,  and  White  River 
function  (sec  Route  29). 

Just  after  leaving  the  Junction,  the  train  cro.sses  Wliite  River,  and 
passes  to  Xorwich,  where  a  large  military  school  called  the  Norwich 
University  was  establislied  from  lS3i  to  18GG,  when  its  buildings  were 
burnt  and  the  school  was  removed  to  Northfield.  The  village  {Union 
House)  is  about  1  M.  W.  of  the  station.  Stages  from  Norwich  station 
run  to  Hanover,  about  j  M.  S.  E.,  across  the  Connecticut  River.  Han- 
over (Dartmouth  House)  is  the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  which  ranks 
among  the  first  of  American  educational  institutions. 

This  eollege  was  founded  here  in  1770  by  Rev.  Eleazer  Wheeloek,  as  a  school 
for  missionaries  to  the  Indians,  and  for  Christian  Indians,  and  had  at  Hvst  24 
students,  donuciled  in  huts  built  of  green  logs,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vast 
wilderness.  44,000  acres  of  land  were  granted  to  it  by  the  State,  which  also  raised 
a  building  l.")0  by  50  ft.  for  its  use,  while  money  was  sent  to  its  aiil  by  Engli.sh 
patrons.  Tlie  project  of  educating  tlie  Indians  was  rendered  subordinate  after  a 
careful  trial,  seA-i'ral  Ma;)lers  of  Arts  having  retui'ned  to  savage  life.  The  College 
(named  for  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  I'resident  of  its  board  of  trustees)  liad  150 
students  in  the  year  1700.  In  1871  it  had  27  instructors  and  .S82  students.  Between 
1771  and  18G7  it  graduated  ;3, 550  men.  .'i  of  whom  have  been  U.  S.  Cabinet  Ministers  ; 
15  have  been  U.  S.  Senators,  and  01  Representatives  ;  ;51  Judges  of  the  U.  S.  and 
State  .Supreme  Couils  ;  15  Governors  ;  4  Ambassatlors  ;  25  I'resideuts  of  Colleges  ; 
104  I'rofessors  ;  and  800  Clergymen.  The  degree  of  LL.  I),  has  been  conferred  on 
24  alumni,  and  that  of  D.  D.  on  lUG.  "Not  to  enlarge,  with  few  excei)tions,  her 
(Dartmouth's)  iulluence  in  religion  has  been  emphatically  eon!;;ervative,  and  her 
sympathies  in  a  national  ])oint  of  view  eminently  jjatriotick.  She  has  been  the 
nursery  of  sound  divines,  devoted  missionaries,  itrofound  jurists,  skilful  pliy.sician8, 
brilliant  statesmen,  accomplished  scholars,  classical  and  learned  v.ritcrs.  Such 
are  the  worthies  she  has  given  to  the  Union,  and  m\  thcrsc  rest  her  (;laims  to  a 
nation's  gratitude."    (Chapman.) 


■^ort  Ticonde- 
adopted  the 


trwrted  to  tlie 
*.  Horses  and 
n  tliis  isolated 
luTwsbury  and 
fr  to  the  N.  in 
ire  seen  in  tlie 
ell  away  to  the 
nn<l  Kearsargf! 
izon.  Tlic  In- 
I)  refer  to  three 
are  marks  of 
;  hanging  over 
.infield,  N.  H.  ; 

3  a  prominent 
-17,  and  1825- 
Ohio,  18i9-;n, 
others,  liariich 
iioulh  Ct)lle;:'e.) 
er  in  tiie  anti- 
Ohio,  1855-59. 
reat  serviee  to 
rle  resigned  in 
ed  States.     On 

White  Mirer 


e  River,  and 
tlie  Norwich 
lildings  were 
llage  ( Union 
•wich  station 
liver.  Han- 
wliich  ranks 


,  as  a  school 

ad  at  Hi'st  24 

1st  of  a  vast 

ich  also  raised 

id  by  Lnglish 

linate  after  a 

The  College 
(■es)  had  liJO 
its.  Between 
et  Ministers  ; 
the  U.  S.  and 
of  Colleges  ; 
conferred  on 
:eei)tions,  her 
tive,  and  her 
has  been  the 
ulphysieians, 
liters.     Hnch 

elaiius  t.'  u 


NEW  YORK  TO  Ql'EBEC.  IluUe  ^l     1(17 

Among  the  most  distinguished  ahmini  of  Partmonth  were  Jdhn  Wheeloek,  Its 
second  President.  177'.>  -  isij  ;  Asa  Uiirton  ;  rresid«Mit  Torter,  of  Andover  Senii- 
nuy  ,  Ileinan  .\lli;n  ;  Gen.  Kii'li  y.  tlic  hero  of  .N'lagani  and  (.'hiiipewa  ;  Alvan 
Ilv  Ic,  1).  F>.,  1. 1..  (>.  ;  ,\mn,s  Kciidall  ;  .Senator  Levi  Woodbury;  Daniel  Poor,  the 
(,'nylon  missionary  ;  .Judge  .Joel  l'.\rkrr  ;  J.  H.  Felt,  the  annali~;t  ;  Jl.  Gieenleaf,  the 
antiunetician  ;  T.  C.  Lphani,  D.  1).,  the  metaphysician;  .\lphens  Crosby,  the 
lihild  V,'ist  ;  Nathm  I/>rd,  1).  D..  the  (ith  President;  and  Asa  I>.  Smith,  I).  1).,' 
the  7th  and  present  President  ot  Dartnioiitii  ;  ,1.  H.  Noyes,  the  fomiiicr  of  the 
Oneida  Coiiinmnily  ;  ('.  K.  Potter,  flie  author  ;  .lolin  l,ord,  tiie  historical  essayist  ; 
\\.  !).  Kimball,  the  anthor  ;  Oeii.  Slie[iley  ;  (i.  P.  Maisli,  llic  philologist  and  diplo- 
miitist;  IJishops  Chase  and  Oorr  :  (ieorge  Tickiior,  (he  historian  of  .Sitaiiish 
Iilcr.itiire  ;  Senator  liiilns  Ciioale,  the  lawyer  and  orator;  Salmon  I*.  Chase,  the 
statesman  and  .jurist  ;  and  Danitd  Web.^ter. 

'Die  f.imons  Dartmouth  College  case  was  oiu'ned  early  in  the  i>resent  eentnry  by 
the  State  of  N.  IJ.  attempting  to  infringe  on  the  vested  rights  of  the  College. 
After  much  litigation,  the  case  was  decided  by  the  .Stati"  Sui)renie  ('oiut  against 
the  College.  It  was  then  carried  by  apjie.il  to  tiie  Snineme  Court  of  the  United 
States,  where,  after  long  arguments  by  the  leailing  lawyers  of  Amerii-a,  -—  Danitd 
Webster  flctVndiii:';  Dartmouth,  -the  St.ate  .juil;,'iiieiit  was  reversed,  and  the  College 
was  restored  to  its  ancient  privileges  and  independence. 

The  college  fronts  on  a  fine  canipns,  in  the  centre  of  TIanovor  village, 
and  on  an  upland  plain  near  the  Conn.  River.  Dartmonth  Hall  i.s  the 
long  central  1)1  iding  (in  which  is  tho  chapel),  while  in  line  with  it  are 
Weutworth  and  Thornton  Halls.  In  front  of  the  line  is  Reed  Hall,  con- 
taining the  college  library  of  abont  40,000  volnmes  (diflicnlt  of  access). 
These  btiildings  are  old  and  idain,  contrasting  with  Culver  Hall,  a  hand- 
some new  structure  E.  of  the  line,  in  which  there  arc  fine  lectnrc-roora.s,  a 
.small  natural  history  collection,  and  the  State  mu.seum  of  minerals. 
Bissel  Hall  is  a  new  gymnasium,  fronting  on  the  campus.  N.  of  the 
college  is  the  Chandler  Scientific  School,  while  the  Medical  (College  and 
the  observatory  are  in  the  vicinity.  An  Alumni  Hall  is  to  be  erected. 
The  scenery  about  this  (iniet  academic  village  is  fine,  embracing  tall  hills 
to  the  E.  and  S.,  and  upland  plains  along  the  Conn.  River. 

After  leaving  Norwich,  the  train  crcs-ses  the  Ompompanoosuc  River,  and 
stops  at  Pomjumonsuc,  whence  largo  quantities  of  copperas  are  shipi)ed 
away,  to  be  made  into  sulphuric  acid.  The  mines  are  at  Copperas  Hill, 
10  M.  N.  \V.,  and  the  copperas  is  separated  from  other  clenr-^ts  by  a 
long  and  difficult  process,  and  prcciintated  in  green  crystals,  nearly  400 
tons  a  year  are  converted  into  vitriol  in  chemical  works  near  Boston, 
while  a  great  quantity  of  the  copperas  is  used  as  a  mordant  in  dye- 
factories. 

Distant  views  of  Moosilanke  and  Bald  Mts.  are  obtained  as  the  train 

approaches  Thetford  (two  small  inns).     Thetford  village  is  1  M.  W.  of 

tlie  station,  and  on  the  E.  is  the  large  farming  towni  of  Lyme,  N.  H.,  to 

which  stages  run  4  times  daily  (Perkins  House). 

Daily  stages  run  X.  W.  to  W.  Fairlci  (9  M.)  and  Vershire  (15  M.)  with  its  ex- 
tensive copper-mines,  also  to  Chehea,  the  shire-town.  Vershire  had  1,054  inhabi- 
tants in  18G0,  ol  whom  113  men  joined  the  Union  army.  Nearly  11  jier  cent  of 
her  population  was  at  the  front, 

Station  N.  Thetford,  whence  much  copper  ore  from  Corinth  is  sent  to 


i  •    ; 

1    ■; 

.;    ■' 

.    '.1 

?      1 

[J      f: 

h 


168    Route  24.         NEW  YOIIK  TO  QIEIJFX'. 

Baltimore  ("by  water  from  Portsmouth)  and  smelted.  Station,  FairUe 
and  Orfordy  the  foniur  being  a  hilly  town  abounding  in  lakes,  one  of 
which  is  nearly  .3  M.  long.  Tickerel  are  found  in  these  waters.  Just 
across  the  river  from  Fnirleo  is  the  N.  Tl.  town  of  ij-rfiml  (stage  to  Orford 
Hotel),  with  a  l)eautifnlly  located  village  which  has  become  a  favorite 
Hummer-home  for  lovers  of  tnunniillity  aiid  rural  life.  (Juht  Mt.  and  Mt. 
Sandaji  are  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  an<l  there  are  several  large  ponds. 
Cube  Mt.,  in  tlu;  W.,  is  2,273  ft.  high,  and  lias  a  chain  of  5  lakes  on  its  W, 
side.  Cxi  he  Falls  ii\\([  the  i)eri)endicular  cliffs  of  gray  gi'anite  on  Saw- 
yer's Mt.  are  worthy  of  notice. 

Station,  Bradford  (Trotter  House),  a  i)rosperous  manufacturing  village 
on  Wait's  River.  In  the  N,  W.  is  Wright's  iMt.,  where  one  Wright,  who 
claimed  to  be  a  |>roj)]iet,  had  a  hermitage  in  a  dismal  rocky  cleft,  now 
called  the  Devil's  Den.  The  town  has  a  scientific  association,  an  academy, 
a  weekly  newspaper,  and  a  savings-bank. 

Stages  nni  to  Coriiifh,  Tnjisluim  (13  M.  N.  W.),  Orange  (17  M.),  and  Montpelier 
(30  M.) ;  also  to  Wiisliiiigton  nnd  B.irre,  and  to  the  N.  H.  farming  town  of  Pier- 
mont,  ueyond  the  Conn,  liiver. 

Stations,  S.  Newhui-y  and  Newbury  (the  Spring  Hotel,  closed  in  1869-72, 
will  probably  be  reopened  in  1873;  iVewbury  Jlou^e).  This  beautiful 
village  stands  on  a  terrace  above  tlie  rich  Ox  Bow  intervales,  where  a  great 
bend  of  the  river  nearly  insulates  a  tract  of  fertile  alluvial  meadow-land. 
Mt.  PvlasJci  is  near  Newbury,  and  commands  a  nol)le  view,  embracing 
thefruitfid  and  carpet-like  Ox  Bow  meadows,  the  village  of  Haverldll,  and 
the  winding  river,  with  Moosilauke  in  the  S.  E,,  .and  the  Peinigewasset 
and  Franconia  Mts.  in  the  E.  J  M.  from  tlie  Hotel  are  the  Newbury 
Sulphur  Springs  (bath-houses,  &c. ),  in  a  little  glen  near  the  verge  of  the 
intervale,  and  a  charming  twilight  walk  is  that  along  the  borders  of  these 
level  meadows,  with  the  sombre  mountains  beyond. 

This  town  was  founded  about  1764  by  Cien.  Bailey,  of  Newbury,  Mass.  During 
the  Revolution  a  detacilinient  of  British  soldiers  came  here  to  t^ike  Bailey,  but  a 
friend  went  over  to  the  tield  whero  he  was  ploughing  and  dropped  in  the  furrow  a 
note  saying,  "The  Philistines  be  upon  thee,  Samson  !"  On  returning  down  the 
long  furrow  Bailey  saw  the  note,  took  the  hint,  and  fled  to  securer  regions.  The 
meadow."  of  Coos  about  Newbury  were  the  home  of  a  large  tribe  of  Indians,  who 
tilled  the  adjacent  lands,  caught  salnu)n  and  trout  in  the  rivt'i-s,  and  chased  wild 
game  through  the  lut.'untains.  These  pleasant  lands  were  abandoned  iu  terror 
after  Lovewell's  battle  in  Petiuawket. 

The  beautiful  scenery  along  the  Passumpsic  line  changes  to  grandeur  a.s 

the  train   runs  N.     Station,  Wells  River  {Coosuck  House),  where  the 

Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  and  White  Mts.  R.  R,  touches  this  line  on 

its  W.  angle  (20  M.  to  Littleton.     See  Poute  80). 

The  Montpelier  and  Wells  River  R.  R.  will  probably  be  completed  from  this 
point  to  the  capital  of  the  State  (about  25  M.  N.  of  W.)  in  the  summer  of  1873. 
Stages  now  run  to  Ryegate,  5  M.  N.  W.  (Blue  Mountain  House),  a  Presbj-terian 
town  settled  in  1774  by  a  colony  of  farmers  from  the  Scottish  shires  of  Renfrew 
and  Lanark.     Blue  Mt.  is  a  high  granite  ridge  in  the  N.  W.    The  stage-road  fol- 


»[! 


NEW  YOKK  TO  QUEBEC.  JiouU  24.     169 


n,  Fairlee 
es,  one  of 
l-ers.  Just 
!  to  Orford 
a  favoiite 
t.ax\(\  Mt. 
irgc  ])on»ls. 
s  on  its  W. 
e  on  8aw- 

•inj,'  villug«5 
right,  who 
cleft,  now 
1  academy, 


Montpelier 
wn  of  Picr- 


n  1869-72, 
I  beautiful 
ere  a  great 
adow-laiul. 
end  (racing 
verhill,  and 
tnigewa.s.set 
J  Newbury 
3rge  of  the 
irs  of  these 


iss.  During 
lailey,  but  a 
the  turrow  a 
g  down  the 
igions.  The 
miians,  who 
chased  wild 
3d  iu  terror 


grandeur  as 
where  the 
;lds  line  on 


[I  from  this 
ler  of  187a. 
'resbj'terian 
of  Renfrew 
ge-road  fol- 


\ 


h)Wfl  up  Wells  River  to  droton  (^'iiiuU  iun).  In  the  N.  W.  j)art  of  On)t<^>n  Ih  Long 
Poti'l,  4  M.  long  and  1  M.  wiUe,  wiili  n  liotcl  (thtf  I-ikt  House)  ou  its  8.  shore, 
which  affords  good  facilities  for  bontiuK  and  fiHhing.  'llii.s  pond  is  1,1U0  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  near  it  is  the  pretty  Little  Pond,  1  M.  by  ^  M. 

Beyond  Wells  Iliver,  the  train  stops  at  Mclndoc's  Falls,  with  largo 
lundter-mills,  and  Bnniet,  a  Scotch  Presbyterian  town,  settled  in  1775. 
Stages  nm  to  Pcacham.  Soon  after  leaving  Barnet,  the  line  passes  near 
the  mouth  of  the  l^assumpaic  Rlri'r,  where  Rogers'  Rangers,  returning 
from  their  raid  on  the  St.  Francis  Indians,  failed  to  find  an  exi)ecte(l  depot 
of  provisions.  Many  of  the  famishing  men  died  there,  while  others  made 
a  ranidbal  feast  on  the  flesh  of  a  slain  Indian.  In  his  dis{\strous  retreat 
from  St.  Francis  to  C'harlestown,  Rogers  lost  nearly  half  of  his  command, 
and  it  is  said  that  30  of  his  men  died  in  18  hours  here  on  the  Pa.ssumi)sic 
meadows. 

Just  beyond  Baniet  (famed  for  its  butter)  begin  th-i  15-Mile  Falls  on 
the  Conn,  River.  Stations,  McLerans  and  J'ussuinpsic,  witli  falls  on  the 
Passumpsic  River,  wldch  here  rolls  between  black,  rocky  banks.  Station, 
8t.  Johnsbnry  (•SV.  John.fhitry  Ifoitue,  on  the  hill  ;  Avenue  House,  near 
the  station),  a  busy  town  of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants,  with  many  neat 
villas  and  large  manufactories.  It  was  settled  in  178t>,  and  named  in 
honor  of  St.  John  de  t'rcvecceur,  French  f'onsid  at  New  York,  and  a  bene- 
factor of  Vennnnt.  The  Court  House  of  Caledonia  County  is  a  fine 
building,  on  the  hill,  directly  in  front  of  which  is  a  *  Soldiers'  Monument, 
consisting  of  a  statue  of  America  (by  Mead),  on  a  pedestal  inscribed  with 
the  names  of  6  officers  and  74  men  from  this  town,  who  died  in  the  Seces- 
sion War.  Near  tlu;  monument  is  the  Af/wmruui,  with  1>,U()0  volumes  in 
a  good  library  building.  There  is  also  a  reading-room  with  papers  and 
magazines,  and  an  art-gallery  is  i)rojected.  The  St.  Johnsbnry  Academy 
is  a  large  and  well-attended  school,  and  the  other  schools  of  the  village 
occupy  neat  buildings.  There  are  several  churches  here,  the  best  of  which 
is  the  Catholic  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Victories.  The  village  has  also  2 
banks  and  2  weekly  newspapers. 

There  are  manufactures  of  mowing  and  threshing  machines  and  other  things, 
but  the  reason  of  being  for  St.  .Johnslmry  is  tlie  extensive  scale  factory  of  E.  &  T. 
Fairbanl<s  &  Co.  The  works  of  tliis  coiiipany  are  in  a  glen  on  Sleeper's  River, 
and  occui)y  10  acres  of  ground.  .O-WO  men  are  employed  and  300  varieties  of 
scales  are  made,  from  tlie  most  delicate  letter-scales  to  tlio.so  huge  machines  which 
weigh  loaded  cars  and  ciiiial  boats  (jOO  tuns  capacity).  In  18:U),  during  the  excite- 
ment about  hemp  culture,  tiie  Fairbanks  brothers  established  a  hemp-dressing 
factory,  and  Thaddeus  invented  the  iilationii  scale.  It  was  patented  in  America 
and  England,  and  up  to  18G1  the  company  sold  9(),O,08  portable  scales,  8,H72  liay 
and  track  scales,  and  ".•4,712  <<>iinter  ami  even  balances.  Since  1801  the  sales  have 
been  nnich  greater,  proportio.ially,  and  in  18G'.»  the  yearly  sales  were  stated  as 
50,000  small  scales,  and  several  Imiidred  liay  and  platform  scales.  12';  men  are 
engaged  in  the  Fairbanks'  service  in  otlier  towns  and  cities  ;  wliile  the  works  con- 
sume 18  tons  of  iron  daily,  in  three  cupola  furnaces.  The  scales  which  have  been 
made  in  large  quantities  for  Oriental  States  are  curious,  being  marked  with 
Chinese  and  Turkish  numerals,  according  to  their  petudiar  systems  of  weights. 
The  works  use  yearly  3,000  tons  of  American  iron,  1,000  tons  of  Scotch  iron,  and 
3,000,000  ft.  of  lumber. 

8 


170     /iuule2l  NKW  YOIIK  TO  Ql  EUEC. 


i 


I 


After  leaving  St.  JoliiiKbury  tlie  line  passes  tliroiigli  the  town  of  Lyndon, 

which  has  thrt'(?  villages,  an<l  witliin  wliosi!  Itordcrs  are  tht;  Great  Falls  of 

the  I'a.HHumpsic.     The  soil  of  the  town  is  rich  and  valnahle.     At  Ly}\th)v- 

ville.  (Walker's  Hotel)  are  the  ofliecs  and  repair-shops  of  tho  Pawsnnipsie 

R.  11. 

Stnp'H  run  to  ShrlJIrM,  7  M.  N.  W.,  and  to  fVliediKk,  0  M.  W.  Tho  Cal«'.Inni,i 
Hprinys  (small  hotel)  are  at  the  latter  place. 

Station,  W.  liiirh'.,  before  reacldn;,'  whieh  a  fine  view  is  afforded  of  the 
hold  Hurke  Mt.  Carria^'es  may  be  taken  from  Trull's  Hotel  (inferior) 
near  the  station,  for  *  Willoughby  Lake.  <>  M.  N.  Tlie  road  ailbrds  a 
continual  view  of  the  two  singular  mountains  between  whieh  the  lake  is 
situated.  The  Willoughby  Lake  House  was  closed  in  1872,  but  it  is 
thought  that  it  will  open  in  tlie  summer  of  1^73.  This  lake  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  on  tlie  continent,  being  situated  between  two  immense 
mountains,  whose  basiis  meet  far  l)elow  its  waters.  Tluilakeis  (5  M.  long, 
ami  in  places  2  M.  wide,  while  its  depth  is  very  great,  and  not  yet  known, 
a  line  of  100  fathoms  having  run  out  without  finding  bottom. 

A  carriage  road  along  the  E.  shore,  or  a  boat  on  the  quiet  waters,  gives 
opportunity  to  see  tho  beauties  of  the  lake  and  the  grandeur  of  its  sur- 
rounding walls.  The  mountain  on  the  W.  shore  is  called  jMt.  Hor,  and 
is  somewhat  more  than  1,500  ft.  above  the  water.  The  E.  shore  mountain 
is  called  Mt.  Willoughby,  IMsgah,  or  Annananee,  in  dilferent  books  and 
niap.s.  As  Mr.  Eastman  remarks,  Annananee  seems  more  api)ropriate, 
since  that  was  the  name  of  a  brave  chief  of  the  St.  Francis  Indians  wlio 
once  lived  here.  A  vast  precipice  of  granite,  2  M.  long  and  GOO  ft.  sheer 
down,  runs  along  tlie  side  of  Mount  Auiuiiuince,  while  the  long  sloj»e 
below  is  ro(!ky  and  steep.  The  peak  is  2,038  ft.  above  the  lake,  and 
3,800  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  the  hotel  to  the  summit  of  Annananee 
it  is  a  ideasant  forest  walk  of  about  2  M.  A  vast  *  view  over  the  Conn, 
valley  is  obtained  from  this  point,  extending  to  the  Franconia  and 
White  Mts.  on  the  S.  E.,  and  it  is  said  that  the  hotels  on  Mt.  Washing- 
ton may  be  seen  with  a  strong  glass.  On  the  N.  W.  are  Owl's  Head  (in 
Canada)  and  Jay  Peak,  from  which  the  stately  line  of  the  Green  Mts.  run;; 
S.,  with  the  peaks  of  ISIanstield,  Camel's  Hump,  and  Killingtou  (near  Hut- 
land)  all  visible.  From  the  verge  of  the  clitts  on  the  W.  Mt.  Hor  is  seen 
close  at  hand,  and  the  observer  can  look  down  on  and  far  into  the  lake, 
so  transparent  are  its  waters.  Geologists  think  that  the  chasm  between 
these  mountains  was  caused  by  the  rush  of  a  northern  current  during  the 
drift  period,  which  eat  away  the  decomposed  limestone  between  the  two 
granite  peaks.  Very  rare  plants  and  flowers  are  found  on  Mt.  Anna- 
nance,  especially  at  the  "  Flower  Garden,"  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  600 
ft.  above  the  Devil's  Den,  on  +he  lakeside  road.  The  Silver  Cascade 
and  the  Point  of  Rocks  are  found  farther  out  on  the  same  road.     Trout 


I     • 


NKW  Yoiiiv  TO  Qri:nEc 


riui'tc 


■n 


171 


n  of  Lyndon, 

rent  Falls  of 

At  Li/nrfoit- 

I  Passunijisic 

riio  Cnlfflnnlii 

onled  of  tlic 
itt'l  (inft'i-ini) 
)a(l  affonls  u 
I  the  lakp  is 
72,  but  it  is 
is  one  of  the 
wo  ininionse 
is  ()  M.  htng, 
t  yet  known, 

waters,  gives 
r  of  its  snr- 
Mt.  Hor,  and 
Dre  mountain 
it  books  and 
appropriate, 
Indians  wlio 

00  ft.  sheer 
long  sh)i)C 

le  lakd,  and 
Annanance 
\r  the  Conn, 
mconia  and 
Washing- 
I's  Head  (in 
pn  Mts.  run:; 
(near  Kut- 
\JIor  is  seen 
:o  the  Like, 
Ini  between 

1  during  the 
jen  the  two 
|Mt.   Anna- 

clifTs,  600 

Cascade 

id.     Trout 


and  muscalonge  abound  in  tlie  cool  crystal  waters  of  the  lako.  Kxfursion.s 
are  made  from  the  hotel  to  Burh'  Aft.  (10  M.  S.),  Jiarfi>n  (11  .M.  W.), 
Plunki't  Fitlh  (12  M.),and  Sevntrk  )i\  M.  S.  E.),  famed  for  its  pro<luctiou 
of  sugar  from  vast  forests  of  sugar-maples. 

Near  the  flag  station  at  >'.  Ilarton  the  suniniit  is  passed,  and  the  water- 
shed of  tlie  Si.  liawn'UiH"  is  entered.  Jay  Peak  is  seen  in  the  X.  W.  Sta 
tion,  llirtiiii  (Crystal  Lake  llousi),  a  manufacturing  village  in  a  town 
nanicd  for  its  first  proprietor,  fJen.  Barton.  Cri/sfal  Lrtfa  (by  which 
the  track  passes)  is  a  jiretty  sheet  of  water  containing  about  2  scpiare 
miles.  About  1.^  M.  distant  on  the  E.  is  the  Flume,  where  a  brook  Hows 
through  a  natiiral  passage  in  the  granite  rock,  110  ft.  long,  10  ft.  wide, 
and  20-30  ft.  ilecp.     Tlie  granite  walls  are  smooth  and  perpemlicular. 

In  ISIO,  th«  ppopir  (U'tortninml  to  di-cpcn  IlartdM  Ilivrr  1>y  turning  liOn;r  r<>n<l 
(tlif  soiini- <if  tlic  i.aniiiilli')  into  it.  Tln-y  li.nl  l».iicly  ci'iniiltjlcil  a  cliaDiii'l  frnru 
lA->n:^  Pond  f<>  tlic  iMiiid  reservoir  nf  tlif  Uutmi  Hivcr,  wlnii  its  waters  burst 
throii;;]!  with  trt'nicndons  foii-n,  and  .s\v(>i>t  dowii  to  Laki-  Mf>iii|>lir»'"MK<';,',  wreck- 
ing cvrrytliinK  in  their  pMth,  an  .  raiisint;  iiiMuense  dainai^o.  Tho  hed  of  Long 
Pond  is  now  dry,  and  is  i  ailed  Htui  iway  I'ond. 

Stages  run  from  Harton  to  Mnutju'lirr,  'M  M.  S.  W.  tliroii,-li  the  towns  of  f //over, 
Greennboio',  Ilurdwick,  A'uudbury,  and  Valain.     Also  to  Crdftnlnirn  and  Alhany. 

Station,  Barton  /^rtMr//?j(7(Valley  House),  which  was  much  resorted  to  by 
smugglers  in  1812-1').  Stages  run  4  M.  W.  to  Ini.shunjh  (Irasburgh 
House,  large  and  good),  a  beautiful  rural  village,  and  the  shire-town  of 
Orleans  County. 

Stations,  Coventry  and  Xev^port  (*^remphremagog  House,  $  4.00  a  day, 
300  guests,  a  large,  first-class  hotel  on  the  lake  sliore  ;  Newport  Hou.se  ; 
Lake  House). 

Lake  Memphremagog. 

The  villa,i,'o  of  Newport  is  at  tho  npjter  (S.)  end  «>f  this  lake,  and  is  305  M.  from 
New  Y(»rk,  L'.'lO  M.  from  JJoston,  and  104  M.  from  Quebec.  It  is  built  \i]nn\ 
PiekiTol  Point,  ;ind  from  the  edp.'  of  the  village  rises  Prospc(  t  Ilill,  whence 
.  line  lake  views  are  (;nined,  and  the  Mts.  Owl's  Head,  f^lephantis,  Urford, 
Jay  Pcalx,  and  Annananoo  are  seen.  Other  excursions  from  Nowoort  are  to 
Clyd.>  River  Falls  (2  M.),  Mt.  Morrill ("2  M.;,  Bear  Mt.  (7  M.),  and  Hoi, on  Hi)rin;;s 
(in  Canada,  14  M.).  .Steaniei-s  leavf>  every  moiTiing  from  the  (iuay  near  the  great 
hotel,  for  Mago;,  n  turnin.t,'  in  the  cveninj^. 

The  ori^^innl  Indian  name  of  this  lake  was  Memidiremapt).!,'.  or  Memi)lo\vbow(|ue 
(nanie;i  possibly  us'jd  by  dilforent  tribes),  which  is  said  to  mean  IJeantiful  v/ater. 
Some  yee  in  it  a  resemblance  to  Loch  I.omuml,  othi  r.s  to  Lake  Oeor;,'e,  while  still 
others  call  it  the  Geneva  of  Canada.  The  lake  is  ^0  M.  lont,'  and  '_'-  I  M.  wide, 
and  two-thirds  of  it  lies  in  Canada.  The  watei-s  are  cold  and  clear,  aboundinj<  in 
trout  and  mus(alon;,'e,  the  sliores  are  romantically  uneven  and  rock-bound,  and 
tall,  wooded  momit.'iins  Hse  on  either  hand.  The  voyaue  to  Mav'o.i,',  at  the  N.  end 
of  the  lake,  usinilly  takes  .S- 4  hours,  nearly  .'iO  M.  being  traversed.  By  leavin;j; 
Magog  on  the  aftenioun  boat  (about  4.30  P.  M.),  a  tine  sunset  ou  the  raountiiins 
may  be  seen. 

The  steamer  passes  out  by  Indian  Point,  on  the  E. ,  and  a  distant  view 
of  Stanstead  village  is  soon  obtained,  between  the  evergreen-covered 
islets  known  as  tlie  Twin  Sisters  (on  the  E.).     Soon  after  Province  Island 


i 


172     IioiUe24.  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 

is  passed,  and  the  steamer  crosses  into  Coiiuda.  The  boundary  is  inark(Ml 
by  clearings  in  the  forests  on  either  side.  Next,  on  the  E.,  is  ihe  anuili, 
cedar-covered  Tea  Table  Island,  and  beyond  it  the  Canadian  village  of 
Ct'darrille.  Bear  ML.  loons  np  <n\  the  W.  shore,  and  the  scattered  farms 
of  the  tov/n  of  Potion,  while  Fit(^]»'s  Bay  stretches  fur  in  shore  to  the  N. 
E.  The  round  summit  of  Owl's  Head  is  mow  approached  on  the  VV. 
Magoon's  Point  (on  the  E.)  is  near  a  lurge  cavern,  where  the  treasures  of 
a  cathedral  are  said  to  have  been  hidden.  The  legend  is  probably  de- 
ri\ed  from  the  fact  that  Rogers'  Rangers  nvtreatcil  down  the  E.  shore  of 
Lake  Me'iphremagog,  after  sacking  and  destroying  the  church  and  village 
of  the  St.  Francis  Indians.  Besides  the  rich  i)late  of  the  church,  they 
secured  two  golden  candlesticks,  and  a  silver  image  weighing  10  pounds. 
The  candlesticks  were  hidden  near  the  lake  (no  mention  is  made  of  the. 
disposal  of  the  other  articles),  and  Were  found  in  1810,  The  stennjcr 
stops  at  the  ^f<>ln}!Jill.  I/oitsr,  12  M.  from  Newport,  in  a  sequestered  posi- 
tion at  the  foot  of  Owl's  Head,  and  near  the  best  fislung-grounds  on  the 
lake. 

The  mountain  is  ascended  by  a  foot-patlj  (in  2  hours)  wliidi  passes  tlirnnf;li 
forests  and  I'l-lds,  and  by  nunienus  curious  rock-forniations.  The  suniniit  is 
2,743  ft.  abovn  tlie  lalvc,  and  commands  a  Inoad  view,  including  the  greater  jtart. 
of  the  lake  aiul  its  ialands.  On  the  H.  is  Newport  villa;4e  and  part  of  the  Cljde 
valley,  with  tiie  nearer  summits  of  Bear  Mt.  and  Hawk  Mt.,  !ils(»  Jay  Teak  and 
part  of  the  Missis(iuoi  valley.  In  the  W.  are  tlie  tail  fodt-hills  of  the,  (ireen  Mts., 
whilt!  Urome  Lak«?  is  seen  in  the  N.  W.,  and  far  Ijeyond  it  tiie  city  of  Montreal  is 
visible  on  a  clear  day.  Nearer,  in  the  same  direction,  are  the  Hog's  Back  and 
Elephantis  '*lts.  Orford  Mt.  looms  at  the  head  of  the  laki;  on  the  N.,  and  in  tlx; 
N.  W.  are  the  ju-etty  lakes  of  Littl?  Magog  and  Massawippi.  In  the  E.  are  several 
villages  in  Stanstead  and  Derby.  Mt.  .\nnanan<'e  is  seen  in  the  H.  E.  over  Wil- 
longhby  Lake,  and,  far  iKvontl,  ihe  dim  blue  jieaks  of  the  While  Mts.  rise  on  the 
hurizon-lino.  The  contrast  between  the  rugged  country  towards  Lake  Chaniiilain 
and  the  vast  plains  to  tlie  N. ,  traversed  by  the  glittering  rivers  St.  liawrence  nml 
St.  Francis,  is  ver>'  great,  anil  an  element  of  rare  b«!auty  is  added  by  the  exten- 
sive view  over  the  lalce  below.  Amid  these  sublime  scenes,  in  a  glen  near  tlu'. 
summit,  the  Golden  Rule  Lodge  of  Mason;-',  from  Stanstead,  celebrate  the  mys- 
teries of  their  order  en  the  2  Ith  of  June  of  each  year. 

^  M.  from  the  Mountain  House  is  Round  Island,  which  resembles 
Dome  Island,  on  Lake  George,  or  Fallen's  Isle,  on  Loch  Katrine.  Farther 
E.  is  Minnow  Island,  near  which  troiit  abound.  Skinner's  Island  is  also 
E.  of  the  hotel,  and  has  on  its  N.  W.  side  a  cavern  in  the  rock,  30  ft. 
long,  10  ft.  wide  (at  the  entrance),  and  12-14  ft.  high.  The  legend  is 
that  a  celebrated  smuggler  named  Skinner  (in  1812)  always  eluded  the 
closest  pursuit  of  the  customs  ofTicers,  by  disappearing  near  this  point, 
One  night,  after  a  long  chase,  the  officers  found  his  boat  on  this  island, 
and  turned  it  adrift  on  the  lake.  Some  years  afterward  a  fisherman, 
lying  under  the  lee  of  the  island  to  escape  a  squall,  discovered  tlie  cave, 
hidden  under  heavy  foliage. 

♦•  And  what  do  you  think  the  fisherman  found? 
Neither  a  irold'en  nom  Bib'er  pi-ize, 
But  a  skull  with  sockets  where  once  were  eyes ; 


iry  is  marked 

is  tlie  sinuU, 

m  village  of 

altered  farniH 

ire  to  the  N. 

I  on  the  \V. 

treasures  of 

proliahly  de- 

!  E.  shore  of 

;li  and  village 

ehnroh,  they 

g  10  pounds. 

made  of  tln^ 

Tlic  steanscf 

aestercd  posi- 

ounds  on  the 


passes  tliroiinh 

riie  summit  is 

ic  greater  jiarf. 

t  of  the  Clyde 

Jay  Teak  anil 

l.e  Green  Mts., 

of  Montreal  is 

ofj's  I3ael<  and 

N.,  and  in  IIk; 

E.  are  several 

5.  E.  over  Wil 

ts.  rise  on  tl:e 

ake  (Jliamplain 

liawience  and 

by  the  exten- 

glen  near  the 

u'ate  the  mys- 


ch  resembles 

iue.     Farther 

Island  is  also 

!  rock,  30  ft. 

lie  legend  is 

s  eluded  the 

r  this  point. 

[1  this  island, 

a  fisherman, 

red  tlie  cave, 


NFAV  VOKlv  TO  QUEBEC.  Jiuute  SI     173' 

Alio  iiom«>  h<)iip«  of  armi  mul  thijih*. 
And  II  vurtobrul  ('(111111111  olBinnt  titv  : 
How  tlicy  K"t  <li<'f»'.  hf  ctiiild  n't  doviBe, 
Fur  111'  'd  only  lict'ii  ..•ii'd  to  roiniiion^ilare  nrvret, 
,  And  knew  niuiplif  nf  ••  orRHiiir  ri'iiiniiiH"  in  cavci ; 

On  niiittrr.i  like  lh<inp  liisi  wits  wi'ro  dull, 
So  lie  dmiipid  tin'  (iiilgn  t  cih  will  as  Uic  skull. 
'  r  in  iiot'dioRS  to  Hiiy 
111  tliU  \,iWt  day, 
'T  wns  fh<«  (imiijjRU'r  »  Iioih-h  in  the  rave  that  lay  : 
All  I  vc  10  iidd  in  —  the  liones  in  agruvc 
Were  placed,  and  the  cavern  wa«  called  *  Skinner  n  Cave."  " 

N.  of  this  ]>oint  is  Limy  Island,  with  i)alisades  on  its  N.  W.  side,  and 
ivn  immense  rockmg-stone  called  Balance  Hock  on  the  S.  shore.  Ou  Mol- 
.■ion's  Island,  still  further  N.,  is  the  mansion  of  a  >veulthy  Montreal  gentle- 
man. On  the  W.  shore,  1  M.  above  the  hotel,  are  eliffs  700  ft.  high,  and 
as  the  steamer  goes  N.  the  sharper  outlines  of  Owl's  Head  become  prom- 
inent. Mt.  Khj>luintis,  or  Sugar  Loaf,  is  above  Owl's  Head  ou  the  W. 
shore,  and  is  thought  to  resemble  an  elei)hant's  head  ..nd  back.  Far  up 
on  the  VV.  slope  of  Ele})lKintis  is  a  beautiful  motuituin  tarn,  2  M.  long  by 
^  M,  wide,  ami  aboumling  in  trout.  The  steamer  touches  at  Oeoryeville 
(Camperdown  House),  u  pretty  village  on  the  E.  shore,  where  many 
Canadians  jiass  the  sunnner.  Tiie  lake  is  now  crossed  (3  M.)  to  Knowl- 
ton's  LanduKj  (1(5  M.  from  Newport),  at  the  mouth  of  Sergeant's  Bay. 
This  crossing  has  long  been  the  main  route  to  Montreal  from  the  Eastern 
Townships  (Stanstead  County),  as  stages  nm  from  Knowlton's  to  the  rail- 
road station  at  Waterloo  (20  J\I. ).  The  steamer  crosses  the  month  of  the 
Bay,  passes  the  rocky  (Jibraltar  Point  on  the  1.,  and  leaves  the  more 
mountainous  part  of  the  lake,  heading  towards  Orford  Mt.,  which  is  seen 
ill  the  N.  A  comparatively  narrow  strait  is  paused,  and  then  the  lake 
widens  into  a  broad  expanse,  at  the  end  of  which  is  the  village  of  Magog 
(Parks  House),  a  small  Canadiar.  settlement,  with  fine  trout-fishiug  in  the 
rapids  of  Magog  River.  The  latter  stream  flows  through  Little  Magog 
Lake,  and  empties  the  Mem})hremagog  waters  into  the  St.  Francis  River, 
a  noble  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrciuec.  5  M.  from  Magog  (carriage-roail 
to  the  summit)  is  Or/ord  Mi.,  the  highest  peak  in  the  Eastern  Township.s. 
Its  view  cnibracc'S  Memi>lireniagog  and  its  mts.  on  the  S.,  Shefford  Mt, 
on  the  W.,  much  of  the  valley  of  the  St.  Francis  on  the  N.  E.,  and  tlie 
waters  of  )8  lakes.  A  vast  pine  forest  covers  mucii  of  the  country  to  the 
N.  and  W.,  and  Orford  Lake,  at  the  base  of  tlie  mt.,  has  a  weirdly  dark 
und  solitary  appearance. 

Daily  .itages  run  from  Magog  to  Sherbrooke  (IG  M.  N.  E.),  an  important 
station  m  the  Grand  Trmik  Railway,  101  M.  from  Montreal  and  196  M. 
from  Portland. 

Newport  to  Quebec. 

Distance,  ICl  M.  The  time  has  usually  been  10-12  hours,  as  trains  on  the 
Cirand  Trunk  Uailway  do  not  nial<e  close  coimeetions  with  the  Massawippi  line  at 
lSht'rljruul;e  and  Hichaiund. 


174    Route  24.  NEW  YOKK  TO  QUEliEC. 


I    J 


Tlie  train  crosses  an  arm  of  the  lake  alter  leaving  Newport,  an  1  enters 
the  rich  farming  town  of  Derby,  Station,  iV.  Derby  (Derby  Line  Hotel), 
soon  after  passing  wliich  tlie  Anglo-Canadian  frontier  is  crossed,  ^lie 
line  now  enters  the  Eastern  Townships,  of  which  the  riverward  parts 
were  early  settled  by  the  French,  while  the  forest-towns  were  occupied  by 
pioneers  from  New  England  between  1790  and  1800. 

The  Canadian  Hand-I3ook  calls  this  "  as  beautiful  a  tract  of  country  as  perhaps 
any  on  the  continent,  both  with  reg.ircl  to  mountain  and  lake  scenery,  beautilul 
rivers,  and  fertile  valleys.  The  mountains,  wooded  generally  from  base  to  sum- 
mit, repose  in  majesty  ;  and  as  the  mists,  with  which  their  summits  are  not  un- 
frequenlly  crowned,  withdraw  themselves  in  folds  along  tiieir  sides,  they  reveal  still 
more  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime.  Charms,  ravines,  and  jirecipices  are  there, 
and  among  their  solitudes  sublimity  reigns.  Beautifvd  lakes  lie  roattered  over 
the  surface  of  the  (rountry,  bordered  here  by  gentle  slojjes,  there  l)y  jirecipitous 
clilfs  ;  cultivated  fields  and  wide-spread  pastures,  with  woods  interspersed  ;  val- 
leys and  plains  adorned  with  farmhouses,  single  or  in  groups,  and  beautiful  vil- 
lages." ,^^^  .,^^ 

The  first  Canadian  station  is  Siansteo  Junction,  whence  a  short  branch 
line  runs  to  Stanstead  Plain  (4  trains  daily),  a  large  and  thriving  village 
situated  on  fertile  lowlands.  10  M.  E.  is  Pinnacle  Lake  and  Mountain, 
the  l?ittcr  being  a  remarkable  precipitous  peak  which  rises  sheer  from  the 
lake.  After  passing  some  minor  stations,  the  train  reaches  Massawippi,  a 
village  in  Hatley  town,  near  which  is  the  beautiful  Lake  Massawippi.  This 
lake  is  9  M.  long  by  1  - 1^  M.  wide,  and  swarms  with  many  kinds  of  fish, 
among  which  are  maskinonge,  trout,  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  and  mullet. 
Blackberry  Mt.  on  the  E.  shore,  abounds  in  blackberries  during  their 
season.  The  train  now  follows  the  Massawippi  River  for  16  M.  to  its 
confluence  with  the  St.  Francis,  at  /tenncxrille  (two  inns).  This  is  the 
seat  of  Bishops'  College,  an  institute  of  high  reputation,  under  the  care 
of  the  Episcopal  Church,  with  ])reparatory  schools  attached,  and  a  staff  of 
able  professors.  This  college  lias  been  called  "  the  Eton  and  the  Oxford 
of  Young  Canada."  Productive  copper  and  lead  mine.,  are  worked  in  the 
vicinity  of  Lennoxville. 

Station,  Sherbrooke  {SherbrooJce  House;  Magog  House),  a  manufactur- 
ing village  prettily  situated  at  the  confluence  of  tlie  ?lagog  and  St.  ^"ran- 
cis  Rivers.  There  are  long  rapids  in  tiie  St.  Francis  near  the  village,  and 
other  fine  scenery  in  the  vicinity.  Sherbrooke  is  the  metropolis  of  the 
Eastern  Townships,  and  is  the  most  important  station  between  Montreal 
a  id  Portland.  It  contains  the  Stanstead  County  buildings,  which  are 
well  situated  on  a  comniauding  site.        >  ,  ^      .■<'  -      '•-; 

Stages  run  daily  to  Magog,  16  M.  S.  W.  on  Lake  Mempliremr.gog,  passing  Little 
Magog  Lake. 

At  Sherbr./oke  the  traveller  changes  cars,  and  proceeds  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  to  Quebec  (12i  M.),  or  to  Montreal  (101  M.).    See  Route  40. 


i    ' 


BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL.     Ruute  2o.     17.5 


;,  anl  enters 
Line  Hotel), 
I'ossed.  ^'he 
erward  parts 
occupied  by 


try  as  perhaps 
lery,  beautiful 
base  to  sum- 
3  are  not  un- 
[ley  reveal  still 
ces  are  there, 
•'.•attered  over 
hy  jirec'ipitous 
rspersed  ;  val- 
l  beautiful  vil- 


short  l>rauch 
riving  village 
d  Mountain, 
ear  from  the 
[assawippi,  a 
wippi.  This 
duds  of  fish, 

and  mullet, 
during  their 
16  M.  to  its 

This  is  the 

der  the  care 

md  a  staff  of 

the  Oxford 

oiked  in  the 

manufactur- 
id  St.  ^"ran- 
village,  and 
ipolis  of  the 
en  Montreal 
which  are 

massing  Little 
Grand  Trunk 


tf  f/i^ 


IS.  rW 


*    -        25.  Boston  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel. 

Via  Fitchburg  R.  R.  and  Vt.  and  Mass.  R.  R.,  in  130  M.  Stages  cross  tlie 
Hoosac  Mt.  to  N.  Adams,  whence  a  railroa<l  line  runs  to  Troy  and  Albany. 
Saratoga  is  sometimes  visited  by  tliis  route,  but  several  chanpes  are  necessary. 
The  favorit.'  route  to  Saratf)ga  is  by  way  of  FitclibuTj^',  Bellows  Falls,  Rutland, 
And  Whitehall  (express  trains  in  0-11  Ins.,  witliout  change  of  cars). 

The  train  leaves  the  fine  castellated  granite  station  of  the  Fitchburg 
Railroad  (PI.  1)  on  Causeway  St.,  near  the  Warren  Bridge  to  Charles- 
town,  and  soon  crosses  inc  tracks  of  the  Bo.ston  and  Maine,  Eastern,  and 
Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads,  on  their  long  trestles  over  Charles  River. 
Cliarlestown  Heights  on  the  r.  and  the  long  hills  of  populous  Boston  on 
tlie  I.  are  in  sight  for  a  few  minutes,  then  the  train  runs  past  the  stations, 
Prospect  St.,  Sumerville,  Cambridge,  Belmont,  and  WaveHey.  Near  the 
latter  station  is  the  finest  grove  of  oaks  \\\  New  England  (see  Flagg's 
**  Woods  and  By-vays ").  -     •  :; 

Waltham  {Ventral  Ihnise  ;  Prospect  House)  comes  next,  and  is  an  active 
town  of  about  9,000  inhabitants.  Here,  in  1814,  was  erected  the  first  large 
cotton-mill  in  America,  and  extensive  mills  are  still  in  operation  here. 
The  Waltham  Watch  Company's  works  are  the  largest  in  the  world  en- 
gaged in  making  watches  ;  upwards  of  700,000  of  these  timekeepers  have 
been  sold  in  America,  their  reputation  being  very  high.  Every  part  of. 
these  popular  and  justly-celebrated  watches  is  made  by  machine-work, 
while  the  works  of  Swiss  watches  are  formed  by  hand.  The  extensive 
buildings  of  this  company  are  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles  River. 

At  Waltha.ii,  the  traclc  of  the  Watertown  Branch  rejoins  the  main  line,  after 
pa.ssing  several  petty  stations  bet\Neen  Waltham  aud  its  divorf^ent  point  at  liriek- 
yard  ./"uctlon.  Watcrtovn  is  tlie  most  important  of  these  points,  while  Mount 
Au'ouru  and  Fresh  Pond  are  also  frequently  visited  by  this  route. 

N.  i'.  Baiil<s  was  born  at  Waltham  in  1810.  llis  jjarents  were  factory-hands, 
and  he  hir.iself  was  for  .some  time  a  "  bobbin  boy."  Apjilyiug  hiuiself  to  study, 
journalism,  law,  and  politics,  horo.se  rapi<ily,  aud  was  Member  of  (.'ongress  in 
185:!  -  7-' and  lS(>.J-7,  (loveiiior  of  Mass.  IS.'iS-Ol.  During  llie  Secession  War  he 
was  a  .MaJ.  (ien.,  and  was<lefi'atcd  by  rttonewall  .laclvsou  in  tlie  Sheunudoali  Valley, 
after  whiih  his  jirmy  was  only  saved  by  its  superior  fleetness.  While  command- 
ing in  Louisiana  he  took  Opelousas  and  Alexandri;.,  iuHicting  severe  losses  on  the 
enemy,  aud  then,  after  a  Ion,.;  sie;,'e.  llie  Mlssi.ssiitpi  River  fortress  of  Port  Hudson 
was  siUTendered  to  his  army.  In  1864  lie  advanced  far  nj)  the  Red  River,  but 
after  several  sharp,  sudden  attacks  by  the.  Confederate  (Jeueral  Dick  Taylor,  he 
was  forced  to  make  a  rapid  an<l  disastrous  retreat  witii  his  unwieldy  expeditionary 
force.  In  tlie  Presidential  contest  of  1872,  he  joiri  1  the  Liberal  party,  and  conse- 
quently failed  to  secure  a  re-election  to  Congress  in  that  year. 

After  leaving  Waltham,  Prospect  Hill  is  seen  on  the  r.,  fromwho.se  sum- 
mit (480  ft.  high)  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  Boston  and  its  western  subuibs. 
The  line  soon  passes  into  tlie  valley  of  Stony  Brook,  aud  beyond  the 
station  of  that  name,  stops  at  Weston,  1  AL  N.  from  the  bright  upland 
village  of  Weston.  Lincoln  is  1.^  M.  S.  W.  of  the  village  in  the  centre  of 
the  town  of  Lincoln,  near  which  are  two  large  ponds  well  stockeil  with 


■r 


% 


17G    Roule25.     BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL. 

fish.  The  train  soon  gains  tlie  W.  border  of  the  Ibrost-surrounJed  Walikn 
Pf/nd,  on  wliose  huulis  lived  Tlioreau  (sec  page  28). 

At  Concord  Junction  tlie  Framinghani  and  Lo\yo11  Railroad  is  crossed, 
and  then  the  train  pass;^.s  the  stations,  S.  A  don,  IF.  Acton,  and  Litth'tnn 
(the  Indian  Naslioba).  From  S.  Acton  a  branch  road  runs  to  Marlhoni" 
(13  M. ),  crossing  tlie  Pompaseitticutt  district  of  the  Indians,  and  stopping 
at  Mciynnrd,  Rockhottom,  and  Hudson. 

Beyond  Littleton   is  Ayer  Junction  (formerly  Groton  Junction),  a 

flourishing  village  and  railroad  centre. 

'i\  :'■.'.'•- 

The  Stony  Brook  Railroad  runs  to  Lowell  (13  M.)  down  the  valley  of  the  Stony 
Brook,  passing  through  the  towns  of  Groton,  Westford,  and  Chelmsford.  Wesifoiil 
lias  a  quiet  village  situated  on  far-viewing  heights. 

The  Peterboro  and  Shirley  Braneli  runs  to  GreeHvilh  or  Mason  Village  (N.  H.), 
passing  through  the  towns  of  Groton,  Townsend,  and  Mason.  Townsend  Harbor 
IS  a  village  on  the  Squanicook  River,  and  Centre  &  W.  Townsend  are  small  villages 
of  no  importanee.  Mason  Villa„e  was  set  off  under  the  name  of  Greenville  in 
July,  1872,  amid  general  jubilations  an<l  a  salute  of  40  guns.  It  Is  a  nianufaotur- 
ing  place,  situated  on  the  Souhegan  River,  which  has  here  a  fall  of  80  ft.  in  a 
distance  of  80  rods. 

The  Worcester  and  Nashua  Railroad  crosses  the  present  route  at  Ayer 
Junction. 

After  leaving  Ayer  Junction,  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  crosses  the  towns 
of  Shirley,  Lunenburg,  and  Leominster,  with  occasional  views  of  Wachusett 
to  the  1.  as  the  train  approaches  Fitchburg.  Fitchburg  {American  Hotel; 
Central  House)  is  a  small  city  (incorporated  1872)  of  about  12,000  inhabi- 
tants. It  was  known  in  the  colonial  days  as  Turkey  Hills,  from  the  great 
number  of  wild  turkeys  found  here.  It  is  a  busy,  plain,  wide-awake  place, 
■which  has  quadrupled  its  poi)ulatiou  within  28  years  by  its  encourage- 
ment of  manufactures  and  by  its  being  a  centre  of  railroads.  The  city  is 
built  along  the  banks  of  a  stream  which  affords  a  fine  water-power.  Many 
small  factories  are  ranged  along  this  stream,  which  is  the  life  of  Fitchburg. 
1 ,000  men  are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  machinery  and  agricultural 
tools;  500  men  are  in  the  chair-making  business  ;  10  paper-mills,  with  200 
liands,  turnout  $1,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly;  while  two  or  three 
cotton-mills  ax'e  well  worked  and  busy. 

Tlie  views  from  Rollstone  Hill  (the  seat  of  large  quarries)  and  Pearl  Hill 
are  of  interest.  In  memory  of  her  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War, 
the  city  has  erected  a  fine  monument  from  designs  by  Milmore.  It  repre- 
sents the  Goddess  of  Liberty,  a  soldier,  and  a  sailor,  all  of  heroic  size,  and 
cast  in  bronze  at  Chicopee,  in  this  State.  These  statues  stand  on  a  high, 
inscribed  pedestal. 

In  1793,  Fitchburg  maintained  a  semi-weekly  stage  to  Boston.  At  present  it 
has  7  trains  a  day  running  over  50  M.  of  track  to  Boston,  by  the  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road, and  4  trains  daily  to  Boston  by  way  of  S.  Framinghani  (58  M.).  The  Cheshire 
R.  R.  runs  hence  N.  W.  to  Keene  and  Bellows  Falls  (see  Route  26) ;  the  Vt.  and 
Mass.  runs  W.  to  Iloosac  Tunnel ;  and  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  R,  R.  runs  S. 
to  Worcester. 


:el. 


BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL.     Route  25.     177 


ouiiJeJ  Waldcn 

'oad  is  crossed, 
^,  and  Littletun 
lis  to  Marlboro'' 
s,  and  stoppiii;' 

n   Junction),  a 


lley  of  the  Stony 
isford.     Wesifonl 

1  Village  (N.  H.), 
ownsend  Harbor 
are  small  villages 
of  Greenville  in 
is  a  manufaotiu- 
'all  of  80  ft.  in  a 

route   at    Ayer 


)sses  the  towns 
vsof  Wachusdi 
merican  Hotel; 

12,000  inhabi- 

from  the  great 
le-awake  place, 

its  encourage- 
|s.  The  city  is 
power.  Many 
3  of  Fitchburg. 
id  agricultural 
mills,  with  200 

two  or  three 

md  Pearl  Hill 
Jecession  War, 
ore.  It  repre- 
eroic  size,  and 
.nd  on  a  high, 


.\t  present  it 
^itohlturg  Rail- 
The  Cheshire 
5) :  the  Vt.  and 
'  R.  R.  runs  S. 


4 


After  leaving  Fitchburg,  the  Vt.  and  Mass.  track  is  entered  upon. 
Stations,  W.  Fitckhnrj  and  Wachusett,  from  which  a  line  of  stages  runs 
from  the  trains  S.  to  Princeton  and  Wacliusett  Mountain  {Prospect 
House,  Worhusdt  House,  Mountain  House).  The  mountain  is  easily  as- 
cended from  the  lofty  village,  and  presents  a  remarkable  view  from  the 
ocean  to  the  fiulhest  lloo.suc  Mts.,  and  from  Monad iiock  in  the  N.  over 
the  extensive  lines  of  the  lower  Green  Mts.  Princeton  is  a  favorite 
summer-resort  on  acc^ount  of  its  high  location,  its  pure,  cool  air,  and 
its  quiet  ruralness. 

Station,  Westuiinstrr  (Westminster  Hotel),  a  town  granted  to  the 
veterans  of  the  Narragansett  War,  and  settled  as  Narragansett  No.  2. 
The  village  is  3  M.  from  the  station  on  the  highlands  which  form  the 
watershed  between  the  ( 'onneeticut  and  Merrimack  Rivers.  Station,  Ash- 
burnham,  which  in  the  eoloiual  time  was  called  Dorchester  Canada,  liav- 
ing  been  granted  to  men  of  the  former  i)lacc  (in  1090)  for  campaigning 
against  the  latter.  This  is  al^o  a  hill  town  on  the  watershed  highlands. 
Station,  Gardner  (named  for  an  oflicer  who  fell  at  Bunker  Hill),  near  a 
village  which  is  extensively  engaged  in  chair-making.  The  line  now 
enters  Miller's  River  valley,  and  stops  at  Tcnipleton  (Grove  Hotel)  in  a 
town  granted  to  the  old  veterans  as  Narraganr.ett  No.  6.  The  soil  of 
Templeton  is  fertile,  and  it  abounds  in  manufactories.  Occasional  fine 
views  are  gained  from  tlie  elevated  line  of  the  track,  especially  of  Monad- 
nock  and  other  mountains  in  the  N.  The  road  passes  through  the  quiet 
hill-towns  oi  Roi/alsfnn,  Athol,  Oranrje,  Wendell,  and  ErHng,  to  Grout's 
Corner,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  New  London  Northern  Railroad  (Route 
12).  At  Grout's  Comer  the  line  leaves  the  valley  of  Miller's  River  and 
or  jsses  the  town  of  Montague  to  the  Connecticut.  This  broad  and  beau- 
tiful river  is  crossed  on  an  open  bridge  (a  rare  thing  on  the  New  England 
railroads),  from  which  fine  views  are  afforddd  on  both  sides.  After  pass- 
ing over  a  narrow  intervale,  the  road  cro.ises  the  Deerfield  River  not  far 
from  its  junction  with  the  Connecticut,  and  follows  its  valley  up  to 
Greenfield. 

Greenfield  (Mansion  House,  American  House)  is  a  beautiful  village 
situated  on  broad  intervales  near  Green  River,  and  not  far  from  the  union 
of  the  Deerfieid  and  Connecticut  Rlvcrs.  It  bears  a  ijleusing  air  of  rural 
simplicity,  and  is  a  favorite  summer-resort  on  account  of  its  attractive 
environs,  /routing  the  public  Square  is  a  handsome  sandstone  church, 
the  Town  Hall,  Post  Office,  and  Court  House.  The  soldiers'  monument 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  Square. 

The  Russell  Manufadxiring  Co.  has  its  works  near  this  village.  Here  5  -  600 
men  are  enii)loyed  in  tlie  manufacture  of  table-cutlerj',  which  is  superior  to  that 
of  Sheffield.  The  works  turn  out  annually  about  300,000  dozen  table-knives,  and 
100.000  dozen  of  miscellaneous  cutlery,  using  up  500  tons  of  steel  ;  150  tons  of 
cocoa  and  granadilla  wood  ;  30  tons  of  rosewood  ;  50  tuna  of  ebony  (from  Mada- 

S»  L 


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178 


Route  25. 


BOSTON  TO  TPIE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL. 


gascar)  ;  20  tons  of  oleiiliant's  tusks  ;  25  tons  of  emery  (from  Sniyriid)  ;  200  tons 
of  grindstones  (Nova  Scotiu) ;  1.0  tons  of  bniss  wire:  2,000  tons  of  et)ul ;  25,000 
busliels  of  eliarcoal :  and  IJ  tons  of  wux.  The  admirabli.'  and  ingenious  ineehun- 
ism  used  in  tlieso  works  is  worthy  of  note.  There  are  also  manufactures  of 
woollen  goods,  carpenters'  tools,  &e.,  in  tlie  town. 

The  Bear's  Den  i.s  a  dark  ravine  with  a  small  cave,  a  .short  distance  S. 
E.  of  the  village,  and  at  the  S.  cud  of  Uocky  Mt.  The  PoeVs  Scat  is  on 
Kocky  Mt.,  and  coinniauds  a  plea.sing  view,  embracing  the  villages  of 
(Treenfield  and  Deerlield,  the  fair  intervales  of  the  two  river.s,  and  a  great 
circle  of  hills  surrounding  all.  Arthur's  Sent  is  a  lofty  hill  S.  W.  of  the 
village,  commanding  a  view  of  thy  villuijes  and  rich  intervales  of  Deerlield 
and  Greenfield. 

Decrjleld  (see  Route  24  i.s  about  5  M.  S.  of  Greenfield.  The  Caleraine 
ax  i  Shclbarne  Gorijes  are  much  visited,  an<l  in  Leydcn  there  is  a  re- 
markable water- worn  cut  in  the  slate-rock,  10 -15  ft.  wide,  and  oO-50 
ft.  deep,  known  as  the  Leydcn  Gorge.  Pretty  cascades  are  found  near 
this  place,  and  fornudable  hills  tower  over  it.  The  Coleraine  (Jorcje  is  a 
deep  and  romantic  defile  cut  by  the  waters  of  the  North  River.  The 
Stillwater  Road,  to  the  S.  W.,  over  the  level  meadows  of  the  Deerfield 
River,  and  through  the  ancient  village  of  Deerfield,  is  a  popular  and 
pleasant  drive, 

4-5  M.  N.  E.  of  Grcenlield  arc  Turner's  Falls.  At  daybreak,  on  a  May  morning 
of  1G76,  Capt.  Tui-iier  and  ISO  colonial  soldiers,  alter  a  long  forced  march  by 
night,  attacked  a  jiowerful  force  of  King  Philip's  insurgent  Indians,  who  were 
fncaniping  here  and  rioting  on  the  sjioils  of  <he  captured  English  towns.  Turner 
surprised  the  enemy  sleeping  in  their  wigw^ams,  and  in  the  ensuing  panic  140  of 
them  sprang  into  tiieir  canoes,  and  were  carried  over  the  Falls  and  lost.  100 
were  shot  or  cut  to  pieces  on  the  shore,  and  then  Turner,  having  lost  but  one 
man,  marched  off.  But  the  disi)ersed  Indians  rallied  in  swan  s  .ind  hung  on  the 
line  of  retreat,  and  a  rumor  spread  through  the  ranks  of  the  olonials  that  King 
Philip  and  1,000  men  had  reinforced  the  enemy.  The  connnand  now  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  Capt.  Turner  and  38  men  were  killed,  besides  many  Avounded  and 
stragglers  who  were  cut  oil'.  The  Rev.  Ilojie  Atherton,  who  was  j)resent  in  full 
canonicals,  was  made  i)ri.soncr,  but  the  Indians  were  struck  with  such  awe  at  his 
presence  that  they  s])eedily  let  him  go.  Capt.  Holyokc  led  the  remnant  of  the 
force  back  to  Hatfield.  Alter  this  blow,  says  the  old  historian,  "  the  enemy  went 
down  the  wind  apace."  Manv  years  later  the  town  of  Bernardston  was  granted 
to  tlie  veterans  of  the  "  Falls  Fight." 

In  1702,  a  dam  and  canal  (3M.  long)  were  built  here,  to  aid  in  the  navigation  of 
the  river.  In  1860.  the  Turner's  Falls  Co.  bought  700  acres  near  the  Falls,  laid 
out  d  city,  and  built  a  curved  dam  1,000  ft.  long.  The  fall  is  30  ft.,  and  a  water- 
power  equal  to  10,000  horse-power  has  been  developed  by  two  canals.  Several 
manufactories  have  already  been  started  here,  and  prophecies  are  heard  of  a  sec- 
ond Lowell.  "  During  high  water  the  roar  of  Turner's  Falls  is  heard  from  six  to 
ten  miles."  Dr.  Hitchcock  calls  this  Fall  a  miniature  Niagara.  "They  are  by 
far  the  most  interesting  waterfalls  in  this  State,  and  I  think  I  may  safely  say  in 
New  England." 

After  leaving  Greenfield  the  railroad  closely  follows  the  Deerfield  River, 
running  far  S.  to  flank  Arthur's  Seat,  which  looms  up  on  the  r.  The  Deer- 
field Oorge  is  soon  entered.  "As  to  the  defile  through  which  Deerfield 
River  runs  between  Shelburne  and  Conway,  it  is  so  narrow  that  it  is  difficult 
even  on  foot,  to  find  a  passage,  though  full  of  rouuuitic  and  sublime  objects 


i 


!i^. 


fEL. 


iiynm) ;  200  tons 
s  of  ctwl  :  25,000 
igoiiiidis  Jueclum- 
uiauufactures  of 


ort  distance  S. 
oeVs  Scat  is  on 
the  villages  of 
rs,  and  a  great 
11  S.  W.  of  llie 
les  of  Deei-(i('l(l 

The  Ciileraine 
there  is  a  re- 
de, and  30  -  50 
are  found  near 
ine  iSorfje  is  a 
h  River.  The 
'  the  Deerfiekl 
a  popular  and 


1  a  May  morning 
orced  march  by 
dians,  who  were 
I  towns.  Turner 
iig  imnlc  140  of 
s  and  lost.  100 
iig  lost  but  one 
and  hung  on  the 
nials  that  King 
low  broke  up  in 
iv  wounded  and 
I  present  in  full 
such  awe  at  his 
renniant  of  the 
the  enemy  went 
ton  was  granted 

le  navigation  of 
■  the  Falls,  laid 
t.,  and  a  water- 
I'anals.  Several 
heard  of  a  sec- 
iird  from  six  to 
"  They  are  by 
»ay  safely  say  in 

eerfield  River, 
r.  The  Deer- 
liich  Deertield 
it  it  is  difBcult 
iblime  objects 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON.         nuute  20.     179 

to  the  man  who  has  the  strength  and  courage  to  pass  through  it."    (Dr. 
Hitchcock).     The  track  lies  through  this  defile,  and  reveals  its  beauties. 
Station,  Shelhurne  FuUs  (Woodward's  Hotel).     "  Here  the  river,  in  a 
Mistance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  nn-vkes  a  descent  of  about  l.oO  ft.  over  a 
Wodigious  bed  of  rock.     The  river  roars  through  a  channel  which  it  has 
Vorn  in  the  stone,  leaping  in  two  or  tlnve  distinct  falls,  and  rush*'s  down- 
ward, as  from  flight  to   flight  of  a  broken  and  irregular  staircase  ;   Iho 
jocks  seem  to  have  been  hewn  away,  as  when  mortals  make  a  road." 
f^IlAWTHOUNP:).     A  large  cutlery  manufactory  is  located  here,  and  the  fa- 
^nous  Yale  locks  are  made  here.     There  are  limestone  caverns  in  the  town. 
L'.aving  Bald  Mt.  on  the  r.,  the  line  soon  crosses  the  river.     Station, 
BueJdand,  in  the  town  which  gave  birth  (171)7)  to  Mary  Lyon,  the  edu- 
cationist, and  founder  of  Mt.  ilolyoke  Sennnary.     Tiie  train  now  passes 
out  fiom  the  defde,  and  runs  across  the  long  town  of  f'harlemont  (14  M.). 
Centre  Charlemont  (Dalrymple's  Tavern)  is  under  the  shadow  of  Bald  Mt. 
(not  the  same  one  as  at  Shelburne  Falls  ;  there  are  many  scores  of  Bald 
Mts.,  so  called,  in  New  England).     Cliarlenn)nt  was  a  strongly  fortified 
frontier-town  during  tlie  first  half  of  the  18th  century.     The  line  now 
passes  Mt.  Peak  on  the  1.,  crosses  the  river  four  times,  and  stops  at  ^oar, 
N.  of  which  is  the  town   of  Howe,  witli  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Pelham 
(1744).     After  passing  through  some  romantic  glens,  the  line  stops,  at 
present,  at  Hoosac  Tunnel.     Large  stages  are  in  -waiting,  which  carry 
passengers  over  the  Hoosac  Mt.  to  N.  Adams. 

N.  Adams  to  Troy,  see  Route  23.  Troy  to  Saratoga,  by  Rensselaer  and 
Saratoga  R.  R.,  see  Route  53. 

26.  Boston  to  Burlington  and  Montreal. 

The  train  leaves  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  terminal  station,  on  Causeway 
Street,  Boston,  (PI.  1).  Boston  to  Fitchburg,  see  Route  25.  The  train 
passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Cheshire  R.  R.  at  Fitchburg,  and  then  runs 
by  the  stations  of  W.  Fitchbury,  Westminater,  S.  and  X.  Ashbiimham, 
and  Winchendmi.  The  latter  is  a  manufacturing  tt>vvn  on  Miller's  River 
(American  House). 

Fitchburg  to  Peterboro, 

From  Winchendon  the  Monadnock  R.  R,  runs  N.  17  M.  to  Peterboro, 
N.  H.,  passing  across  the  lake-studded  town  of  Rindge,  the  birthplace 
of  Edward  Payson,  D.  D.,  and  Marshall  P.  Wilder.  Station,  Jaffrey,  in 
the  town  of  the  same  name,  which  has  an  ancient  church  (now  secular- 
ized) whose  frame  was  raised  on  the  day  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill 
(1775).  The  workmen  claimed  to  have  heard  the  cannonading.  In  the 
N.  W.  part  of  Jaffrey  is  Monadnock  Mountain,  with  its  smooth,  round 
top  rising  3, 150  ft.  above  the  sea.     An  extensive  view  is  enjoyed  from  the 


»: 


i 


u 


!1 


\  i    ii 


180    Routed.        BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 

Buniniit,  embracing  tiiany  famous  mts.  on  llie  N.  and  W.,  and  tlie  luke- 
strewn  towns  of  Clicsliiio  and  Ilillsltorougli  Counties.  No  less  tlian  30 
lakes  are  visible,  tof,'etlier  witli  numerous  villages,  and  it  is  said  tliat 
Bunker  Hill  Monument  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day.  A  good  sinnnier 
hotel  has  been  erected  on  the  slope  of  the  nit.,  and  is  much  frequented  by 
lovers  of  picturescjue  scenery.  On  the  pretty  Contooconk  Lake  a  smsdl 
steamer  has  been  jilaced,  and  makes  jdcasant  trips  in  summer.  The  lake 
is  l.[  M.  long,  and  has  one  island  of  10  acres.  About  1^  M.  S.  E.  from 
Moiiadnock  is  a  mineral  spring  containing  carbonate  of  iron  and  sulpliate 
of  soda. 

Station,  Peterlnrro  (two  inns),  a  i)retty  village  ■with  some  few  manufac- 
tures. Stages  run  from  this  point  to  Dublin,  Keeue,  Wilton,  Mason,  and 
Harrisville. 

The  train  on  the  main  line,  after  leaving  Wliichendon,  passes  State 
Line,  and  enters  New  Hampshire,  stopping  at  Fitzwilliam  (Monadnock 
Mt.  House;  Cheshire  House;  and  others),  a  picturesque  hill-town  with 
many  pon<ls.  This  town  was  named  in  1773  for  the  Earl  of  Fitzwilliam, 
and  its  present  industry  is  mainly  centred  on  quarrying  granite.  St  itions 
Troy  (Monadnock  House),  a  thinly  settled  upland  town,  with  a  stage-line 
in  summer  to  Monadnock  Mt. ;  MarUxyro  (Marlboro  House),  a  rugged 
and  unproductive  town  ;  and  Keene  {Cheshire  lluuse  ;  American  House ; 
Eayle  House).  Keene,  the  shire-town  of  Cheshire  Co.,  is  a  beautiful  vil- 
lage on  a  meadow  near  the  Ashuelot  River.  It  has  broad  and  pleasant 
streets  abounding  in  trees,  and  has  numerous  stores  on  Central  Square, 
its  large  trade  with  the  surroiuiding  country  being  a  constant  source  of 
wealth.  There  are  here  3  banks,  7  churches,  a  high  school,  some  man- 
ufactures, and  the  county  buildings  of  Cheshire. 

The  town  has  6,000  iidiabitants.  Near  S.  Keene  the  R.  R.  passes  over 
a  fine  granite  viaduct  75  ft.  wide  pnd  45  ft.  high.  The  Beaver  Brook 
Falls  are  about  2  M.  N.  of  the  village,  and  are  much  visited.  The  brook 
falls  over  a  stair-like  succession  of  ledges  40  ft.  into  a  deep  basin  which  is 
a  haunt  of  large  trout. 

"Keene  is  a  prmul  little  spot,"  which  was  settled  under  the  name  of  Upper 
Ashuelot  ("collection  of  many  waters"),  about  1735.  In  174G  its  fort  was  at- 
tacked by  a  large  ludijui  force,  and  tlie  villagers  wlio  were  outside  were  cut  ofl"  by 
the  enenij.  \  reinforcement  from  Swanzey  drove  off  the  assailants.  In  1753  the 
town  was  named  in  lionor  of  Sir  Benjamin  Keene,  a  friend  of  Governor  Went- 
worth,  and  at  that  time  IJritish  minister  to  Spain.  It  was  among  the  first  to  re- 
sist the  British  aggressions  on  the  liberties  of  New  England. 

Stages  run  to  Chesterfield,  which  has  a  lovely  lake  8  M.  in  eireumferenee  ;  to 
Surri)  and  Gilsvni;  to  Sullivan  and  Marlovj ;  to  htoddard,  Itoxbury,  and  Nelson. 

The  Ashuelot  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  to  S.  Venion.    (See  Route  12.) 

Beyond  Keene  the  main  line  passes  the  stations  JiJ.  Weatinoreland,  West- 
onoi  clandy  and  Walpole  (Wentworth  House). 

Walpole  was  settled  in  1749-52  by  John  Kilbum  and  Col.  Bellows.  A  strong 
fort  was  erected  near  Cold  River,  and  in  1755  the  garrison  of  Kilburu  was  attacked 


^ 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON.  Route  Sd.     181 


,  and  the  lake- 
No  less  tliau  30 
it  is  said  that 
>  good  sumnior 

I  frecjueuted  hy 
Lake  a  sniidl 

mer.     The  lake 
M.  S.  E.  from 

II  and  suli)liate 

.'  few  nianufac- 
on,  Mason,  and 

passes  State 
7)1  (Monadiiock 
liill-town  with 
)f  Fitzwilliani, 
lite.  Stations 
th  a  stage-line 
ise),  a  rugged 
erican  House  ; 
I  beautiful  s'il- 
and  pleasant 
Jentral  Square, 
tant  source  of 
ol,  some  nian- 

R.  passes  over 
Beaver  Brook 
1.  The  brook 
basin  -which  is 


name  of  Upper 
ts  fort  was  at- 
were  cut  off  by 
ts.  In  1753  the 
joveriior  Went- 
the  first  to  re- 

niinference  ;  to 
,  and  Nelson. 


reland,  West- 


'iws.    A  strong 
n  was  attacked 


'by  400  ririii'hmcn  and  Indians.  From  noon  till  Hiinset  the  battle  wa.s  carried  on, 
the  little  li.Mnlful  of  henw.s  within  keeping  up  an  iniH'ssant  lire.  The  women 
loaded  the  i^'uns,  and  nm  tlie  bullets,  and  when  amniunitirin  bepan  to  fail,  picked 
np  the  Indian  shot  which  had  cntere<l  the  house  and  melted  them  over  for  tlieir 
husbaiid.s"  guns.  Several  attacks  on  tlie  heavy  outer  doors  were  met  by  deadly 
volleys,  and  the  enemy  finally  f^rew  discoiirapd  ami  retired  to  the  N.  It  i.s 
thouidit  that  the  valley  towns  were  saved  by  this  brave  defence. 

Henry  W.  Bellows,  I).  I).,  the  «reat-Krandson  of  Col.  Hellows,  was  born  at 
Walpoltj  in  1814.  lie  has  been  pastor  of  All  Souls*  ("liurch  (Ncv  York)  for  3'> 
years,  and  is  one  of  the  foremost  divines  of  the  Unitarian  Church.  He  is  an 
elfMiucnt  and  powerful  onitor,  and  is  a  leader  in  social  reforms  and  philanthropic, 
niovenients. 

Walpole  i.s  a  plca.sant  village  near  the  foot  of  Mt.  KillMirn,  and  on  the 
verge  of  broatl  intervales.  It  has  wida  streets  lined  with  trees,  a  neat 
Common,  and  several  boardingdiouses  for  summer  guests,  with  whom  this 
is  a  favorite  resort.  Ranm  Falls,  lilanchnrd  Falls,  and  the  Abenaquis 
Spriu;i  are  near  the  village,  while  Deny  Hill  commands  an  extensive 
view,  including  the  Green  xMts.,  A.scutney,  Greylock,  Monadnock,  and  the 
valley  of  the  Connecticut. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  river,  and  .stops  at  Bellows  Falls  (see  page  164), 
where  Route  2!>  crosses  the  present  route.  (Restaurant  in  the  station. ) 
Beyond  Hellows  Falls  the  line  runs  along  Williams  River  valley,  and  soon 
begins  the  ascent  of  the  E.  slope  of  the  Green  Mts.  Station.s,  Rocking- 
ham, BartonsHlle,  Chester  (Chester  House).  From  the  latter  station 
stages  run  to  Windham,  10  M.  S.  W. ;  Londonderry  (Green  Mt.  House), 
15  M.  S.  W.  ;  Weston,  VI  M.  W.  ;  and  Andover,  G  M.  W. 

Station,  '^/rts.s-c^te,  from  which  stages  run  to  Baltimore  (3  M.  )and  to 
Springfield  (7  M.),  a  village  at  Black  River  Falls.  Station.s,  Cavendish^ 
and  Pmctorsville  (Eagle  Hotel),  a  neat  village  with  two  churches  and  a 
bank.  There  are  tine  cascades  on  Black  River,  in  this  vicinity,  and  1  M. 
N.  of  the  village  is  a  valuable  quarry  of  serpentine  niurble  which  is  equal 
to  the  best  African  stone,  and  is  largely  used  for  decorotive  puri)0S63 
in  Boston  and  New  Yoik. 

Station,  Ludlow  (Lnllow  House),  where  the  line  passes  over  the  Hog- 
back, which  is  thought  to  have  been  an  i.sland  in  some  primeval  lake,  long 
since  drained  by  the  break-down  of  the  ear.teni  serpentine  ridge.  Daily 
stage  to  Plymouth.  The  train  now  ascends  heavy  grades  by  Healdville 
to  Summit,  the  highest  i)oint  on  the  line,  beyond  which  the  train  starts  on 
a  down  grade  which  includes  1,000  ft.  of  descent  in  18  M.  Stations,  Mt. 
Holly,  E.  Wallinrjford,  and  Cutlingsvillc  (small  inn),  which  is  near 
Shrewsbury  Peak,  a  commanding  mt.  4,086  ft.  high.  Stations,  Claren- 
don, N.  Clarendon,  and  Rutland  (*  Bates  Hou.se,  $2.50-3.00  ;  Bardwell 
House  ;  Stevens  House).  Rutland  is  a  well-situated  and  prosperous  town 
of  10,000  inhabitants,  having  a  large  country  trade  and  being  widely 
known  for  its  marble-works.  There  are  some  fine  commercial  buildings, 
othere  pertaining  to  the  town,  and  several  notable  churches.     St.  Peter's 


' 


r, 


. 


182     Route  2U, 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 


Catholic  C'hurcli  is  a  fine  new  building  of  stone,  in  the  English  Oothir 
Ktyl(!,  whilt!  the  Fipiscopai  Church  is  a  solid  and  n?assivc  stone  stnicttirr. 
Near  the  twin  spires  which  are  seen  on  the  hill  is  the  handsome  Ciwri 
House  of  Rutland  County,  opposite  which  is  a  neat  Government  build- 
ing. The  town  has  a  daily  and  2  weekly  papers,  7  cluirehes,  3  banks, 
and  numerous  nianufactorics,  prominent  among  which  are  the  marble 
works.  The  i»rini'ii»al  quarries  and  sawing-niills  arc  at  W.  liutlntvl, 
whence  immense  <|uanlitics  of  white  marble  are  sliii)ped  to  all  parts  fif 
America  and  Kuroi»e.  It  sells  at  the  <piarries  for  a  higher  price  thandoo 
Italian  marble  delivered  in  New  York.  Large  gangs  of  saws  (without 
teeth,  and  cutting  by  means  of  sand  poured  in  from  above)  are  constantly 
running,  to  sei»arate  the  marble  into  slabs.  ,,.... 

Rutland  was  sottk'il  about  1770,  and  fortified  in  177')  as  a  station  on  the  grc;:! 
nortlicrn  inibtary  road.  In  1777,  Ht.  Clair's  routed  army  retreated  through  tln' 
town. 

Numerous  i)leasant  excursions  may  be  made  from  Rutland.  Claren- 
don Springs  are  about  6  M.  distant  (stages  connec^t  with  trains  at  V\ . 
Rutland  station).  These  springs  are  of  great  ellicacy,  "containing  in  one 
gallon,  or  235  inches,  46  cubic  inches  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  9.63  culijr 
inches  of  nitrogen  gas,  3  grains  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  traces  of  other 
alkalies."  In  a  sequestered  location  near  the  springs  is  a  large  hotel,  which 
has  been  a  favorite  resort  for  many  years  (250  guests;  $2.50  a  day. 
$10-15.00  a  week).  The  drives  in  this  vicinity  are  very  pleasant,  and 
Clarendon  Cave  is  often  visited  from  the  hotel. 

Killinijton  Peak  is  7  M.  E.  of  Rutland  (9  M.  to  the  summit).  Tlie 
road  to  its  foot  passes  over  the  high,  cold,  and  sterile  town  of  Mendoii, 
with  the  lofty  and  symmetrical  peak  towering  in  advance.  The  ascent  of 
Killington  is  very  arduous,  but  not  dangerous,  and  a  ]>road  and  noble  view- 
is  revealed  from  its  summit,  which  is  3,924  ft.  above  the  sea.  Pico  and 
Shreiosburi/  are  otlier  ])rominent  peaks  in  this  vicinity,  whose  tops  are 
rarely  visited.  Excursions  are  also  made  to  Sutherland  Falls,  6  M.  N., 
one  of  the  i)rettiest  waterfalls  in  Vermont.  Near  the  Falls  are  large 
marbla-quarries  from  one  of  which  a  statuary  marble  is  obtained  which  is 
said  to  be  as  fine  as  that  of  Paros  or  Carrara.  There  is  a  railroad  station 
close  to  the  Falls. 

After  leaving  Rutland,  the  main  line  runs  N.  by  Sutherland  Falls  to 
Pittsford.  The  village  (Otter  Creek  House)  is  prettily  situated,  J  M.  E. 
of  the  station,  near  fertile  intervales  on  Otter  Creek.  Tliere  are  marbl.' 
quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Station,  Brandon  {Brandon  House,  DougUm 
House),  a  prosperous  manufacturing  village  on  the  Neshobe  River,  Avitli 
3,571  inhabitants,  5  churclies,  and  2  banks.  In  this  and  the  village  of 
Forestdale  are  4  mineral  paint  companies,  producing  large  (luantities  of 
paint  from  kaolin,  which  is  mined  in  the  vicinity.     There  are  also  marble 


,41 


BOSTON  TO  DUIILINGTON. 


Route  m.   I8;i 


le  English  Gothic 
)  stftne  stnieturc. 
handsome  Court 
ovcrnnicnt  biiihl- 
luircht's,  3  banks, 
are  the  marble- 
at  W.  Mutlawl 
I  to  all  parts  (,\ 
er  price  than  iWs 
of  saws  (without 
re)  are  constantly 


ation  on  the  grciit 
witeil  through  11  ic 


utland.  Claren- 
ith  trains  at  \\ . 
containing  in  one 
gas,  9.63  cnbic 
d  traces  of  otlier 
arge  hotel,  which 
s;  $2.50  a  day. 
ry  pleasant,  and 

■  summit).     The 

•wn  of  Mendoii, 

The  ascent  of 

1  and  noble  view 

sea.     Pico  and 

whose  tops  are 

Falls,  6  M.  i\., 

Falls  are  large 

btained  which  is 

railroad  station 

lerland  Falls  to 
ituated,  f  M.  E. 
lere  are  marli!' 
-louse,  Douglcis 
)be  River,  witli 
[  the  village  of 
3  quantities  of 
are  also  marble 


quarries,  producing  common  and  tine  statuary  niarblo  and  lime.  Va.st 
quantities  of  bog  iron  ore  are  found,  which  is  easily  melted,  and  yithls  45 
per  cent  of  soft  gray  iron,  adapted  for  cannon,  car-wlicels,  and  other  cast- 
ings requiring  gre;it  strength.  200  tons  of  nianganesf!  arc  sent  hence  to 
market,  i)rinripally  to  Europe.  In  view  of  this  mineral  wealth,  and  also 
of  the  riclrcrops  on  the  intervales  and  the  abundant  timber  on  the  hills, 
Sir  Charles  Lyell  said  of  lirandon,  "  I  have  yet  to  see,  either  in  Europe 
or  America,  a  spot  containing  such  a  variety  of  unique  and  valuable  sub- 
stances placed  by  nature  in  ju.xtaposition."  At  Hrandon  the  Howe  scale  i 
are  made.  Two  curious  caves  are  in  the  limestone  ledges  1^  M.  E.  of  the 
villag*!. 

Htophen  A.  riiunl.is  was  horn  at  nramlon,  A]iril  23,  1813.  Ho  heennie  a  lawyer 
in  the  Stiiti'  of  niindis,  and  aroso  nipidly  to  lii^h  honors.  Uc  was  ii  Congressman, 
184:1-7,  «ii<l  Iroin  1S47  until  his  dtMili  in  1801  lie  was  a  U.  S.  Hcnntor.  Ho  was 
eaiidiilato  of  the  Pciiiocratic  party  i'or  the  Presidency  in  1800,  and  was  defeated, 
tlinu^'li  rf'ifivin;^  a  liv^c  jxipnlar  volt!.  H(>  was  the  aiUlior  of  the  "  I'opular 
Sov»!n'i«nty  "  dortrini-  (that  the  people  of  the  Tcrritnrics  should  decide,  as  to  tlic. 
admission  of  ncj^ro  slavery,  without  tlie  interference  of  (.'on;;ress).  Ho  favored 
the  peaceable  annexation  of  Te.xas  and  Cuba,  was  actively  conservative  in  tin- 
slavery  (piestion,  and  supporteil  the  (lovertunent  against  the  rebellion  of  the 
'Southern  States. 

yt.i;,'es  nni  from  Brindon  to  SiuUmrft,  8  M.  W.,  and  to  Laic  Dunmore,  0  M.   N. 

From  Lcice^itcrJuncddii  a  '.ranch  railroad  runs  W.  across  the  farming  towns  o!' 
Whitiivj,  Shoirhdin,  ami  Orurll  to  TlconderoKa  (17  M),  Crown  Point,  and 
Port  Henrv  (set*  Route  .O;}).  This  road  cro.saes  Lake  Chaniplaiu  on  a  long  bridgn 
near  Fort  Ticondero;,'a. 

Station,  Salifihur;/,  3-4  M.  W.  of  which  is  the  beautiful  Lake  Dun- 
more,  which  is  about  5  M.  long  and  is  environed  by  hills.  Its  clear  waters 
are  60  ft.  deep,  and  abound  in  fish.  Moosalainoo  Peak  towers  on  its 
shore  to  a  height  of  nearly  2,000  ft.  and  overlooks  the  lake  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  while  there  are  rich  lake-views  from  Itattlesnake  Point. 
Warnefs  Cave  (on  Moosalanioo)  and  the  Lana  Cascade,  E.  of  the  lake, 
are  often  visited.  Lord  Dunmove  visited  this  lake  (about  the  year  1770) 
and,  wading  into  its  crystal  waters,  poured  a  libation  of  wine  into  it,  saying, 
"  Ever  after,  this  body  of  water  shall  be  called  Lake  Dunmore,  in  honor 
of  the  Earl  of  Dunmore."  The  .scenes  of  the  romance,  "The  Green 
Mountain  Boys,"  are  laid  in  this  vicinity.  On  the  W.  shore  is  the  *  Lako 
Dunmore  House,  which,  with  its  cottages,  can  accommodate  200  guests. 

Middlebury  {Addison  House,  80  guests,  .$10.00-12.00  a  week)  is  a 
handsome  village,  situated  near  a  considerable  fall  in  Otter  Creek.  It 
has  some  manufactures,  bnt  its  pi'incipal  product  is  marble,  of  fine  (piality. 
The  Portland  (Me.)  Post  Office  is  built  of  this  mar1)le.  Besides  4  church(^s 
and  a  bank,  the  village  contains  the  Addison  County  Court  House,  and  is 
the  seat  of  Middlebury  College.  This  institution  was  incorporated  in 
1800,  and  had,  in  1871,  7  instructors,  05  students,  and  a  library  of  11,000 
volumes.  It  has  three  large  stone  buildings  on  an  ennnence  near  the 
village,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Congregational  Church.     The  favorite 


! 


,  ,j  ' 


■> 


11 


■  If 


184     Route  27.        RUTLAND    TO   BENNINGTON. 

drives  from  Middliibut-y  arc  to  Bi'ldo.n'a  Falls   (2  M.),  Lake    Dunvmrr 
(8M.),  find  Klijin  Spnntfs  (sulphur),  IG  M. 

8tnRP«  nm  to  Com  wall  (I  M).  Bridport  (8  M.),  and  WpybridRp  (4  M  ) ;  ftlno  tf) 
Riptoii  (lircad  I/mt'  Inn),  8^  M.  K.,  which  is  under  the  Green  MIh.,  «nil  h&«  a  ft!W 
HUinnier  visitofH. 

Stations,  Bronkville  and  New  Ilaren  (New  Havon  Hotel),  near  New 
Haven  River  and  lar},;o  marble  (juarries.  Stapes  run  to  IJristol  (KOO<l  inn), 
5  M.  E.,  a  pretty  little  hamlet  on  a  hi^di  ])lateau,  from  which  tho  Adiron- 
dacks  ami  Green  Mts.  are  seen.     Stages  also  to  Lincoln,  ...iiong  the  mts. 

Station,  Vergennes  {Stevens  House  ;  FrankUn  House)  the  smallest  rity 
in  tho  Union  (1,570  inhabitiints).  The  site  was  chosen  by  Ethan  Allen, 
and  is  on  a  hill  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Otter  Creek,  8  M.  from  lh»; 
lake.  It  received  its  city  charter  in  1788,  am',  was  named  in  honor  of  the 
Count  do  Vergennes,  French  minister  of  foreign  alTairs,  177-1-83.  Otter 
Creek  has  deep  water,  and  is  navigable  for  300  ton  vtissels  to  the  Fulls  at 
Vergennes,  which  have  a  descent  of  37  ft.,  and  are  improved  for  wat(M- 
power.  llic  country  in  the  vicinity  is  rich  and  productive,  and  comman«ls 
views  of  the  great  mountain-(;hains  on  the  H  and  W.,  "  a  .scene  of  grand- 
eur and  sublimity  rarely  paralleled  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic."  The 
Champlaiii  A  rsenal  is  located  here,  and  covers  28  acres  of  ground.  It  is 
well  stored  with  ordnance  and  munitions  of  war  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  as  well  as  the  military  supplies  of  tho  State  of  Vennont.  Com- 
modore MacDonough's  fleet,  which  won  the  naval  victory  off  Plattsburg, 
was  fitted  out  at  Vergennes  in  1814. 

Stages  nm  to  AfUlisnn,  6  M.  3.,  a  famous  old  border-town,  in  whose  8.  W. 
comer  is  Chimney  Point,  opposite  Crown  Toint  (sec  Route  53).  It  is  now  nii 
aKricultural  town,  widely  known  for  its  fine  horses.  The  road  to  Addison  passes 
through  Bridport,  a  broad,  quiet  farming  town.  About  .'}  51.  S.  of  Ver.ennes  are 
fine  (cascades  in  Otter  Crotk,  near  which  is  the  Elgin  Spring  (.small  hotel),  con- 
taining sulphate  -  of  magnesia,  iron,  and  .loda,  and  carbonates  of  .soda  and  lime. 
A  few  miles  W.  of  Vergennes,  on  the  lake  shore,  is  the  Fort  Vassln  House. 

Beyond  Vergennes  the  line  passes  through  Ferrisburgh,  Charlotte,  and 
Shelbume,  to  Burlington.  These  are  quiet  farming  towns  with  frequent 
glimpses  of  Lake  Cliamplain  and  the  Adirondacks  on  the  \V.,  and  the 
Green  Mts.  on  the  E.  Stages  run  from  N.  Ferrisburgh  to  Monkton,  which 
has  two  pretty  lakes. 

Burlington,  see  Route  53. 

Jii    ^  27.  Rutland  to  Bennington.  ^ 

Via  the  Western  Vermont  or  Harlem  Extension  R.  R.  in  55  M. 

Three  trains  daily  leave  the  union  stixticm  at  Rutland,  but  that  which  leaves  at 
about  9  A.  M.  is  recommended,  as  the  others  are  slow  and  carry  freight-cars, 
occupying  over  5  hours  in  going  55  M.        ■.      ..<.r  .,  ,  -     .•;;,.  -' 

Station,  Clarendon,  which  is  separated  from  the  Clarendon  Springs  val- 
ley by  a  mountain.     The  li)ie  then  crosses  the  tovni  of  Wallivrfford  (2 


\U 


RUTLAND  TO   nENNINT.TON.        Route  TT.     185 


Lake   Dumnnre 

1  (4  M.)  ;  alno  to 
H.,  and  liRn  a  frw 

•tel),  near  New 
stol(f?oo<l  inn), 
icli  tlio  Adiron- 
iiong  tlie  nits, 
le  snialleHt  rity 
y  Ethan  Allen. 
8  M.  from  the 
in  honor  of  the 
71-83.  Ott.T 
o  the  Falls  at 
ived  for  watcM- 
and  commands 
icene  of  grand- 
tlantic."  Tlie 
groimd.  It  is 
to  the  United 
nnont.  Coni- 
pir  Plattsburg, 

n  whose  S.  W. 
It  is  now  {111 
i\ddison  passes 
f  V'cr/ennes  are 
lall  hotel),  con- 
soda  find  lime. 
House. 

CJmrlntte,  and 
witli  frequent 
3  W.,  and  the 
onkton,  which 


hich  leaves  at 
ry  freight-cars, 


1  Springs  val- 


I ntntions)  near  the  lofty  ridge  calle«l  the  White  U<i(ks.     Station,  Mt.  Ta- 
in *r  and  Danhj/,  between  two  ruggeil  hill-towns,  so-named,  the  former  of 
I  which  has  le««  than  3()0  inhaliitantH  on  23,376  acres  of  land,  much  of 
whieh  is  on  the  summits  of  the  Green  Mts. 

Stations,  .V.  /Mr.sr/  (Ciirtis  House)  and  /i.  Dnrsrf  (E.  Dorset  House). 
The  lino  nms  through  a  valley  between  the  (Ireen  Mts.  on  the  K.  and  the 
marble  hills  of  the  Taconie  system  on  the  W.  Mt.  ^-Eolus,  the  highest 
peak  of  the  latter  chain,  has  large  marble  (juarries  on  its  E.  slope. 

Marble  was  llrst  quarrifd  here  in  178;').  and  now  there  an;  (I'J  K'nngs  of  saws  nm- 
nin;:  liere  and  in  Manrliesfer,  .sawing'  7r»<»,onn  ft.  ye.iiiy.  Over  '.wn  (iiijiri->-nien  are 
employed,  and  the  Dorset  marble  is  sent  to  every  part  of  llie  I'.  >^.  and  Canada. 
One  (piarry  prudmes  tlie  It^ili/ui  marble,  .so  cilied  from  its  rf.seml)lanee  to  that  of 
Camira.  Tlie  siijiply  is  inexhaustible,  and  tlie  stone  is  foiniil  in  p  -dlel  strata 
1-6  ft.  thick,  separated  iiy  thin  seams  of  other  rocU.  Sometimes  •_'<»  of  these 
•trataare  (ound.one  above  the  other.  Onthe.S.  of  Mt.  yKobis  (formerly  called  Dor- 
let  Mt  )  is  a  remarkable  cave  containing  .'<  chambers  and  several  loiii,'  passa^'es  in 
the  rock.     Its  innermost  room  is  50  ft.  high,  and  has  many  stiilactites. 

The  line  now  ftdlows  the  \alley  of  the  Battenkill  to  Man-'lio.i.'-er 
{*  Equinox  Ilini.se,  open  Juik;  vo  Dec.,  a  large  and  (irst-cla.ss  hotel  ;  julin 
House;  V<iH(ferli]>  Iloii.sf),  This  is  a  (piiet  and  beaut ifnl  village  at  the, 
ba.se  of  Mount  Equino.v,  and  is  much  visited  in  sununer  on  account  of  its 
pure  air,  picturescpie  environs,  and  fine  fi.sldng.  The  village  sidewalk.s 
are  of  marble  from  the  inexhaustible  (jnarries  on  the  mt.s.,  and  the  prin- 
cipal buildings  are  Burr  Seminary  and  the  Henningtou  County  Court 
Hou.se.  Aft.  yEolus  is  5  M.  N.  and  Sfmftnn  Mt.  lies  to  the  S.  E.,  near 
which  is  Strattnn  Gop,  a  romantic  pass  which  has  been  reproduced  in  one 
of  Durand's  best  paintings.  A  road  has  been  constructed  to  the  hou.se  on 
the  sumndt  of  Mt.  Equinox,  which  is  3,70(5  ft.  above  the  .sea.  From  this 
peak  a  fine  *view  i.s  gained,  which  inclndes  Greylock,  chief  of  the  Berk- 
shire Hills,  on  the  S.,  and  the  remote  Cat.skills  on  the  S.  W.  On  the  S. 
W.  is  Saratoc^a,  with  parts  fif  the  Hudson  Valley  running  N.  to  I^iukes 
George  and  Champlain,  long  reaches  of  which  are  visible.  Mt,  ./Eolus, 
Killington  and  Shrewsbury  Peaks  loom  up  in  the  N. ;  A.scutney  is  in 
the  N.  W.,  and  far  beyond  Strattim  Mt.  (S.  of  E.)  is  the  dim  blue 
cone  of  Monacbiock.  Skinner  Hollow  is  a  deep  amphitheatrical  gulf  ou 
the  S.  of  Equino.x  Mt.,  which  has  a  cave  so  profound  that  snow  remain.s 
there  all  the  year.     There  are  also  marble  quaiTics  in  the  Hollow. 

The  first  meeting  of  th"  Vermont  Council  of  Safety  took  jilaeo  at  Manchester, 
July  15,  1777,  and  ordered  the  assembly  of  tlie  militia  to  meet  Bur^oyne,  who  was 
marcliinK  oi.  .\lbany.  1,400  men  gathered  here  under  Stark  and  Warner,  and 
encamped  until  tlic;  Hessians  a<lvanced  on  Ii<'nniiii;toii,  wlien  they  marched  down 
and  beat  them.  (^Vmong  the  best  New  Enj,dand  historical  romances  arc  "The 
Green  Monntjiin  Boys  "  and  "The  Rangers,"  by  Hon.  D.  P.  Thompson.  Their 
scenes  are  laid  in  this  part  of  the  SUite  during  tlie  Revolutionary  era.) 

Stages  nm  I],  to  the  mountain-towns  of  Peru  and  Winhull. 

Station,  Arlington  (two  inns),  a  diversified  town  in  which  arc  West  and 
Red  ]^rtr,.,  several  small  caves,  and  a  blowing  spring.     The  State  seal  of 


T 


■■i 


'i 


18G    I{vu(e27.        RUTLAND  TO  BENNINGTON. 


1    »' 


,t    1 


:j 


'<  i 


f 


1 


;, 


Vermont  had  its  origin  here.  A  young  English  lieutenant  was  court  in;- 
an  Arlington  girl,  and  one  day,  while  there,  he  engraved  on  one  of  Gov. 
Cliittenden's  honi-cups  a  picture  of  a  cow  and  pine-tree  and  harvested 
grain,  being  a  view  from  the  W.  window  of  tlie  Governor's  house.  Jrr. 
Allen  saw  this  engraving,  and  adopted  the  device  for  the  seal  of  tin 
State. 

7  M.  N.  of  Arlington  is  Sdnth/atr  Xotch,  a  roniarkable  papsage  through  the  soli.i 
rock,  30  ft.  hiKli,  800  ft.  Ion.!?,  an<l  les.s  than  12  ft.  Avide.  Tliis  pass  is  used  by, 
highway.     Staj^es  run  frnni  Arlini:    >ii  to  Sandgate. 

Stations,  Shnftsbury,  S.  Sliaftsbury  (stages  to  Glastonbury),  N.  Ben- 
ninrjtMi,  and  BenningtOn  (*  Mount  Anthony  House,  accommodating  2ti0 
guests  ;  Stiuk  House  ;  Putnam  House).  Bennington  is  a  pretty  villa^'i' 
situated  800  ft.  above  the  sea  and  overlooking  tlie  surrounding  country, 
It  has  4  churches,  a  seminary,  a  bank,  and  two  weekly  papers,  while  the 
population  of  the  town  is  nearly  G,000.  1  M.  from  this  village  is  Old 
Bennington  Centre,  of  Revolutionary  fame ;  a  quiet  hamlet  with  tlif 
county  buildings  on  its  main  street.  Here  stands  the  old  Catamount 
Tavern,  whose  sign  was  a  stuffed  wild-cat  on  a  pole,  grinning  fiercely  to- 
wards New  York.  The  State  Council  of  Safety  used  to  meet  here,  and 
make  plans  to  defend  the  State  against  the  claims  of  New  York  and  tlio 
armies  of  the  king.  Ethan  Allen's  house  is  also  preserved,  and  stands 
next  to  the  Tavern.  ' 

Mount  Anthony  is  2  M.  by  foot-path  from  Bennington  {i\  M.  byroad). 
From  the  tower  on  its  siunmit  p  beautiful  view  is  afforded,  including  most 
of  S.  W.  Vermont,  Mt.  Eipiinox,  Mt.  iEolus,  the  broad  valley  of  t!ie 
Walloomsack,  Greylock  in  Berkshire,  and  peaks  of  the  Catskills.  Pros- 
pect Mt.  and  the  pickerel  ponds  of  Woodford,  in  the  E.,  are  much  visited. 

Stages  run  on  the  great  southern  liigliway  across  the  State  to  Brattleboro. 

Bennington  was  settled  in  1701  by  Mass.  people,  and  was  named  in  honor  of 
Benuing  Wentworth,  Govenu)r  of  N.  H  For  GO  years  it  was  the  most  populous 
]ila((!  in  Verniont,  of  wliicli  it  nf)W  is  the  fourth  town.  Soon  aft-T  its  settleniei.t 
the  territory  now  oecupied  by  Vermont  was  transferred,  by  royal  edict,  from  the 
jurisdiction  of  New  Hampshire  to  tliat  of  New  York.  Tlie  titles  of  the  settlers 
to  tlicir  lands  were  rendered  null  and  void,  and  it  bccime  evident  that  the;'  must 
either  repurcliase,  abandon,  or  defend  them  against  New  York  and  the  king.  Tin' 
sturdy  pioneers  determine<l  on  liie  latter  course,  and  their  well-organized  resist- 
ance left  the  territory  in  a  state  of  anarchy  luitil  the  outbreak  of  tiie  Revolutidii. 
The  headciuarters  of  the  auti-New-York  party  was  at  Beniungton,  and  here,  in 
1777,  was  established  ,•  d«pot  of  military  snjiplies.  Foil  Ticonderoga  was  t.ikeii 
by  an  expedition  from  this  jdaoe  (1775),  and  when  Burgoyne's  royal  army  was 
marching  w\  Albany,  ht;  sent  Col.  Baunie  with  the  Brunswick  Dragoons  and  ii 
motley  swarm  of  Canadians,  Tories,  and  India'-,  to  capture  Henniugton.  This 
force  (about  000  men)  met  Lieut. -Col.  Gregg  auu  200  Verindnters,  and  <lrove  tlieiii 
back  until  Gen.  Stark's  brigade  moved  up  from  Bennington  (5  M.  distant).  Baunio 
now  haltv-'  and  threw  up  euirenvdinients  on  a  commanding  hill,  and  Stark  en- 
camped near  by.  After  two  days'  skirmishing.  Star!:  was  .joined  by  a  regiment 
from  Berkshire,  which,  with  the  .'!  N.  11.  re.giments  and  llerriek's  Hangers,  gave 
liim  a  force  of  1,800  men.  On  the  uay  before  the  battle,  Parson  Allen,  of  Berk- 
shire, said  to  St'trk,  "General,  the  people  have  been  tuo  often  called  out  to  \w 
purpose.  If  you  don't  give  them  a  chance  to  fight  now,  they '11  never  turn  out 
again."    "You  would  n't  turnout  now  while  jt's  dark  and  rainy,  would  you?  ' 


RUTLAND  TO  ALBANY. 


Route  ZS. 


187 


it  was  courtiiK' 
on  one  of  Gov. 
and  harvestfd 
r's  house.  Jrr. 
he  seal  of  tlie 


hrough  the  soli.' 
lass  is  used  bv ;; 


bury),  N.  Ben- 

mmodating  200 

I  pretty  villau'i 

indiug  country. 

pers,  while  tln' 

village  is  OhI 

milet  with   tln' 

old  Catamount 

ling  fiercely  to- 

meet  here,  and 

York  and  tlie 

red,  and  stands 

4^  M.  byroad), 
including  most 
L  valley  of  tlie 
atskills.  Prcs- 
e  much  visited. 

Jrattleboro. 
imetl  in  honor  of 

most  i)0|(ul()iis 
r  its  sottlcnu-i.t 

edict,  from  tlio 
i  of  the  settlers 
:  tliat  tiic^'  must 
(1  the  kin^.  Tlic 
-or^ianized  resisl- 

tlio  Revohiticiii. 
on,  and  hero,  in 
eroga  was  IhiUcii 

royal  army  Avas 
Dragoons  and  ;i 
■nnington.  This 
and  drove  tliPin 
listant).  Bauiiio 
1,  and  Stark  en- 
;d  by  a  regiment 
's  Hangers,  gave 

I  Allen,  of  Beik- 
dled  ont  to  no 

II  never  turn  out 
ly,  would  you .'  ' 


said  Stark.  "  Well,  no,  not  just  now,"  answered  the  Pardon.  "  Well."  answered 
Stark  "if  the  Lord  slioidd  once  more  give  us  sunshine,  if  I  don't  give  you  fight- 
ing cnongh,  I  '11  never  ask  y<iu  to  tnrn  out  again."  On  the  morning  of  Aug.  10, 
1777  the  American  militia  were  dr.iwn  out,  and  three  detichments  were  sent  to 
attack  the  Hessian  right,  and  ri-,'htand  K-ft  reir  "See  there,  men  !  there  arc 
the  redcoats.  Hefore  night  they  are  nnr.s,  or  Mnlly  Stark  will  be  a  widow," 
cried  Stark,  as  he  led  his  men  to  the  attack.  The  Indians  tieil  l)etween  the  con- 
verging columns,  and  the  Tories  soon  gave  way,  but  the  German  soldiers  fought 
witTi  their  swords  wlui'  their  amnumition  hail  giwn  out,  and  only  surrendered 
when  enveloped  by  superior  numbers.  The  action  lasted  lor  two  hours,  "  like  one 
continued  clap  of  "thunder,"  and  scar-ely  had  the  victors  begun  to  rest  when  Col. 
Iheyman  came  near  tlie  Held  with  a  large  rei.iforcement  for  Ilauine.  Fortunately 
Warner's  Vermont  regiment  ha<l  just  arrived  on  tlie  tidd,  and  the  valiant  Waiiicr 
(who  had  Wen  aniniig  the  foreiiiost  in  the  battle)  led  them  aijainst  the  enemy. 
The  other  cor^KS  were  soon  hurrieil  to  their  support,  and  Hreyman  retreated  al, 
sunset.  -I'M  of  the  enemy  were  killed  and  wounded,  700  were  made  prisoner:, 
and  4  cannon  were  taken.  '  The  Americans  lost  about  200  (or,  according  to  Stark's 
report,  7o  killed  and  wounded).  The  KJth  of  August  has  been  observed  as  a  holi- 
day at  Hennington  ever  since  the  battle. 

From  Hennington  to  Xew  York,  the  trains  run  in  9 -12  hours,  by  Lebanon 
Sprin,trs  (see  Route  2:?),  Ciiatham  Four  Comers,  Croton  Falls,  and  White  Plains. 
Trains  to  Albany  in  4^  -G  hours. 

28.  Rutland  to  Albany. 

Via  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  R.  R.  in  101  M.     Fare,  §3.(55. 

Stations,  Centre  Rutland  (near  which  the  river  is  crossed  at  Gookin'.s 
Falls),  and  W.  Ruthuul,  with  its  grcr^t  marble-works.  Stages  run  hence 
to  Clarendon  Springs  (see  page  182)  in  4  M.  ;  fare,  75  c.  Station,  Castleton 
{Sanford  House),  a  pretty  village  on  a  plain  near  Castleton  River,  which 
has  a  State  Normal  School  and  five  churches.  There  are  marble  and  slate 
quarries  in  this  vicinity,  also  works  for  preparing  marbleized  slate,  an  ex- 
cellent iniitatiou  of  marbh'.  100  men  are  engaged  here  in  making  white 
soapstone  slate-pencils,  J500,000,000  of  whicli  are  n.ade  yearly.  At  W. 
CVstleton,  1,000  billiard  beds  and  2,000  mantels  of  slate  are  made  yearly. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Castleton  to  Lnk^,  Bnirmseen^  4  M.  N. 
W.  This  Lake  is  8  M.  long  and  1-2.^  M.  wide,  and  is  lined  on  its  W. 
shore  with  marble-mills  and  slate-cpiarries. 

7  M.  N.  of  Castlebui  is  IluJtluirdtnn,  where,  near  the  Baptist  tdnirch,  is  an  obe- 
lisk near  a  llagstaff,  whiidi  marks  the  battle-liehl  of  July  7,  1777.  As  soon  as  th" 
Britisli  knew  Miat  St.  Clair  had  evacuateil  Ticoii<leroga,  (Jen.  Frazer  was  sent  in 
pursuit  of  him  witli  a  small  force  of  light  infantry.  Tin;  American  rear-guard 
was  composed  of  '.  thin  re.giments,  one  of  which  retreated  as  soon  as  the  action 
commenced.  Frazer  attacked  the  regiments  of  Warner  and  Fiaiic'swith  700  men. 
The  numbers  were  ubout  ecpial,  and  tlie  liglit  was  lont'  and  desperate.  At  List 
the  Baron  Iliedesel  arrived  on  the  held  witli  liis  Hi  ..uswickers,  and  the  .AnuM-ican 
lines  were  bi-oken.  They  l(,;it  .">:.'4  men,  including  Col.  Francis,  who  fdl  at  the 
head  o;'  his  re'.^inient.  while  \\\v.  British  loss  was  lS;t.  The  bones  of  the  sliiii 
Ideaclied  on  the  battle-liil.l  in  (lie  lU'Scrlcd  town  for  7  years,  when  they  were 
buried  near  the  site  of  the  monumeiit. 

Eutland  and  Washington  Line. 

Poultney  {VonUney  Ilonse  ;  Bcaman's)  is  7  M.  S.  of  Castleton,  on  the 
r  iitland  and  Washington  Railroad,     The  line  passes  through  a  region 


i,  '/  ;  i   i 

ll 


«1 


p  I  i 


■I     i 


.  ,1 


^  i 

t 

i 

< 

%i 

* 

1^ 

■i         '' 

i 

1  i 

3 

1  1' 

•"■ 

<  4 


188    Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


abounding  in  slate-quarries,  the  chief  of  wliich  are  the  Eagle,  Copeland, 
and  Snowdon.  Poultney  is  a  handsome  village,  where  Horace  Grteley 
learned  the  printer's  trade,  1826-30,  and  Jared  Sparks  mastered  the  car- 
penter's trade.  At  one  end  of  tlie  village  is  tlie  large  building  formerly 
occupied  as  the  Ripley  Female  College,  7'his  fine  old  building  is  situateil 
in  pleasant  grounds,  and  is  now  used  as  a  summer  boarding-house  (25i) 
guests,  $10-12.00  a  week).  Among  the  principal  points  frequented  by 
visitors  are  the  Goi-ge,  the  Bowl,  Charter'?  Falls,  Lake  Bomaseen,  on  the 
N.,  and  Lake  St.  Catharine  (or  Austin)  on  the  S.  The  latter  is  about  fi 
M.  from  Poultney,  and  is  over  5  M.  long.  Near  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  a 
promontory  on  which  stantls  St.  Catharine's  Hotel,  with  the  quiet  waters 
nearly  surrounding  it,  and  the  Haystack,  Moosehom,  and  St.  Catharine 
Mts.  near  by. 

Middletown  Springs  are  8  M.  E.  of  Poultney  (stages  daily,  75  c). 
These  si)rings  are  mainly  impregnated  with  iron,  and  have  become  a  very 
popular  resort.  The  Montvert  Hotel  accommodates  300  gitests;  $3.  JO  a 
day,  $  15.00  a  week.    The  Valley  House  is  a  smaller  hotel  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  Poultney  the  Rutland  and  Washington  Division  runs  along tlie  boraovto 
Eagle  Bridge  and  Troy,  68  M.  from  Poultney,  S;,o]>ping  at  tlie  Vermont  stations  of 
Pawlet  and  Rupert. 

Beyond  Castleton  the  next  main  line  station  is  at  Hydeville  (Lake 
House),  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Bor!\i'.see.  •  Station,  Fdirhaven  (Vermont 
House),  with  a  neat  oval  park,  fv  la  ,..jh  the  streets  radiate.  Vast 
amounts  of  slate  for  roofing  and  other  purposes  are  quarried  in  this  town. 

Daily  stages  run  N.  to  the  farming  towns  of  Westhaven  and  Benson  (10 
M. ),  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Cham  plain.  Beyond  Fairhaven  the  line  reaches 
Whitehall  (N.  Y.),  whence  the  Cham  plain  steamers  start  for  Ticonderoga, 
Burlington,  .and  Rouse's  Point.  For  a  description  of  the  Lake,  and  of  the 
railroad  from  Albany  to  Whitehall,  see  Route  53. 


29.  Boston  to  Lowell,  Concord,  and  Montreal. 


i-tt>«- 


Via  the  Boston  and  Lowell,  Northern,  and  Vermont  Central  Railroads.  Dis- 
tance, to  Lowell,  2G  M.  ;  to  Concord,  75  M.  ;  to  Montreal,  334  M. 

(The  other  routes  to  Montreal  are  (1)  by  way  of  Fitchburgand  Rutland,  344  M.  ; 
and  (2)  by  way  of  Portland  and  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail'''  t^  >  405  M.) 

By  the  Lowell  route,  Pullman  and  passenger  oat  .in  through  to  Montreal, 
without  change,  in  14-16  hours.  Through  express  ^  ;  ..  usually  leave  the  Bos- 
ton and  Lowell  depot,  in  Boston,  at  8  o'clock,  A.  I''.,  .-  a.'  *$  P.  M.,  arriving  in 
Montreal,  respectively,  at  about  10  o'clock  in  the  evaniw-  .  1  10  in  tlie  moniing. 
The  line  passes  through  the  ]>opulous  cities  of  T;Owell,  i.  .  I'ua,  Maschester,  and 
Concord,  and  tlien  runs  N.  W.  through  the  pleasing  rural  scenery  of  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Vermont. 

The  train  leaves  the  superb  terminal  depot  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell 
R.  R.,  in  Boston,  and  crosses  Charles  River,  with  the  city  of  CharlestoAvn 
resting  on  hills  to  the  r.  After  passing  seven  suburban  stations,  the  train 
reaches  West  Med/ord  (2  hotels),  on  the  Mystic  River,  the  seat  of  Tufts 


i 


jle,  Copeland, 
orace  Grteley 
itered  the  car- 
ding formerly 
ing  is  situateil 
ig-house  (25t) 
requeiited  by 
aseen,  on  the 
er  is  about  0 
'  tlie  lake  is  a 
!  quiet  waters 
St,  Catharine 

daily,  75  c). 
)ecome  a  very 
ests;  $3.  JO  a 
1  the  vicinity. 

igtlieboraorto 
unt  stations  of 

ieville  (Lake 
en  (Vermont 
idiate.  Vast 
in  this  town, 
id  Benson  (10 
e  line  reaches 
Ticonderoga, 
ce,  and  of  the 

real. 

lih'oads.    Dis- 

tland,  344  M.  ; 

I  to  Montreal, 
leave  the  Bos- 
I.,  arriving  in 
I  the  nioniing. 
iBchester,  and 
f  New  Hainp- 

and  Lowell 
Charlestown 
)ns,  the  train 
)at  of  Tufts 


f 


BOSTON   TO   MONTREAL. 


Route '^9.     189 


College.  The  handsome  buildings  of  the  College  are  on  Walnut  Hill, 
isonie  distance  S, ,  and  near  the  College  Hill  station.  Tufts  College  is  a 
well-conducted  institution,  founded  in  1852,  and  having  (in  1871)  15 
instructors  and  62  students,  with  10,000  volumes  in  the  library.  It  is 
nii'ler  the  care  of  the  Universalist  Church,  and  its  president  is  Dr.  A.  A. 
.Afiiior,  a  leader  in  that  sect.  "  Meadford  "  was  settled  about  1633,  on  the 
Indian  lands  called  Missituck,  and  soon  won  a  fame  for  its  shipbuilding 
■wiiich  it  still  ^.reserves, 

■(ohii  Brooks,  who  was  born  here  in  1752,  fought  througli  the  Revolution,  com- 
iiKiiidiiig  in  succession  the  I'.'th,  8th,  and  7th  Muss,  regiments  of  the  Contiueutal 
;ii:.iy.     lie  was  Governor  of  Mass.  18lG-2;i 

Maria  G.  Brooks,  born  here  in  1795.  was  called  by  Robert  Southey  "the  most 
iiii passioned  and  most  imaginative  of  all  poetesses." 

The  line  passes  along  Mystic  Pond  and  stops  at  Winchester.  On  a  hill 
near  this  pond,  lived  Nanepasheniet,  "the  Moon-God,"  an  early  sachem 
ot  the  Mass,  Indians,  He  was  killed  in  battle  about  1619,  and  buried  in 
his  fortress  here.  Station,  Winchester,  whence  a  branch  track  runs  to 
Wobuni  (2  M.),  a  large  village  engaged  in  manufacturing  (pianos,  tan- 
neries, &c,).  The  pretty  lakelet  called  Horn  Pond  is  close  lo  the  village. 
Station,  E.  Wohxirn,  whence  a  branch  track  runs  to  Stoneham,  a  busy 
shoemaking  town,  near  which  on  the  S.  is  the  romantic  Spot  Fond,  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  and  143  ft,  above  the  sea,  studded  with  islands,  and 
covering  283  acres.  It  was  found  and  named  by  Gov.  Winthrop,  in  1632, 
and  has  become  a  favorite  resort  for  Bosionians. 

Stations,  X.  Woburn,  Wilmington,  Billerica.  The  latter  station  is  in 
au  extensive  farming  town,  Tewlcsbury,  2  M,  N.  of  the  station,  is  the 
beat  of  a  large  institution  for  the  State's  paupers.  Shortly  after  leaving 
N,  Billerica  the  line  crosses  the  Concord  River  and  enters  Lowell. 

loweU.  '  t'    • 

Hotels.  —There  is  need  of  a  good  hotel  in  this  city.  The  American,  City,  and 
Lovejoys  are  the  principal  houses  now  in  the  city, 

Pawtucket  Falls  was  a  favorite  fishing-place  of  the  Indians  until  their 
extinction,  and  was  often  visited  by  Eliot  and  Gookin,  In  1826  a  town 
was  set  otf  here,  and  named  Lowell,  in  honor  of  a  Newburyport  gentle- 
man, who  introduced  the  cotton-manufacture  into  the  United  States. 
The  Pav 'tucket  Canal  extends  from  the  head  of  the  Falls  to  the  Concord 
River  below  the  city,  and  furnishes  an  innnense  water-power,  hnving  a 
fall  of  33  ft.  To  obviate  the  trouble  caused  by  an  occasional  decrease  of 
water  iu  the  Merriinac  River,  a  large  canal  has  been  built  from  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Winuepesaukee  (commenced  in  1846),  The  Pawtucket  Canal 
was  cut  late  in  the  last  century,  for  purposes  of  navigation,  but  did  not 
pay,  and  was  bought  in  1821  by  Boatonians,  who  establish(  i  a  factory 
here.    There  were  then  12  houses  here,  and  in  1828  the  population  had 


I]  1 1 

til       .■ 

.r 


.<     3 


I)     ' 


" 


•, 


*  i 


■  t 

H 


'*  f 


;.-     f 


190    Iiuutf29. 


BOSTON   TO   MONTMEAL. 


risen  to  3,532.     The  Merriraac  Mills  were  started  in  1823,  aiul  at  present 
their  enormous  works  turn  out  12,000  miles  of  cotton  cloth  yearly. 

Beginning  rp-stream,  the  first  line  of  factories  belongs  to  the  Lawrence 
Mills  Co.,  wliilo  on  tlie  c:in:il,  parallel  with  Suffolk  St.,  are  the;  Tremout 
and  Sullblk  Mills.  Below  the  Lawrence  Mills  are  the  ininiense  Merrimao 
Mills  and  Piint  Works  (foot  of  Prince  St.),  which  are  suoceeeded  along 
the  river-front  by  the  Boot  and  the  Massachu.sotts  Mills.  The  Middlesex, 
Prescott,  Aintleton,  llandlton,  and  Lowell  Carpet  Mills  are  on  the  canal, 
S.  of  !\ferriniac  St.,  and  are  best  seen  from  the  bridge  on  Gorham  St. 

In  1871,  there  were  at  Lowell  Gl)  nulls,  witli  a  capital  of  .<;  11,000,000, 
employing  y,404  women  and  5,413  men,  and  running  570,oSG  si)indh;.s 
and  13,460  looms.  41,036  tons  of  coal,  18,200  bushels  of  charcoal,  and 
1,855  cords  of  wood  were  used  yearly  for  the  engines  (of  5,."20  horse- 
power), and  105,776  gallons  of  oil,  1,000  tons  of  starch,  2,662  tons  of 
wool,  and  16,740  tons  of  cotton  were  consumed  yearly.  The  chief  annual 
products  w(  :e  2,530,000  yards  of  woollen  stuffs  ;  1.921,000  yards  of  carpet- 
ing; 130,000  shawls  ;  9,000,000  pairs  of  hose;  51,691,200  yards  of  cloth, 
dyed  and  pi'inted  ;  and  122,096,000  yards  of  cotton  fabrics.  In  addition  to 
the  steam  horse-power  (5,320),  there  is  about  10,000  horse-power  derived 
from  the  canals.  Besides  the  long  line  of  factories  on  the  canal,  another 
great  line  is  built  along  the  Concord  River,  which  here  joins  the  Merrimac. 

When  the  factory  system  was  first  inaugurated,  the  operatives  were 
mostly  Americans,  but  now  the  mills  are  worked  almost  entirely  by 
Irish,  Nova  Scotians,  and  French  Canadians.  So,  with  the  15,000  opera- 
tives, mostly  foreign,  Lowell  possesses  but  little  of  the  aspect  of  a  New 
England  city.  The  French  have  a  large  and  handsome  church  (Catholic), 
Dear  which  is  the  great  hospital  of  St.  John,  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of 
Charity.  The  city  has  42,000  inhabitants,  with  26  churches,  62  schools, 
about  6,000  dwelling-houses,  10  lodges  of  Masons,  and  4  of  0<hl  Fellows. 

Lierrimac  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  contains  long 
lines  of  shops.  On  this  street  is  the  Post  Ofiice,  City  Hall,  and  a  vener- 
able-looking Episcopal  Church  and  rectory.  On  S.  Common  is  St.  John's 
Church,  also  the  buildings  of  Middlesex  County  (which  was  organized  in 
1643,  together  with  Essex,  Suffolk,  and  Norfolk  Counties).  On  Merrimac 
St.  is  a  large  public  library,  and  the  Y.  M.  Christian  Association  has 
pleasant  reading-rooms  near  the  corner  of  Merrimac  and  Gorham  St.s. 

Lowell  has  been  visited  1>y  many  of  the  distinguished  foreigners  who  have  trav- 
elled in  America.  SirClmrles  Lyell  eamo  here,  also  Liuiiles  Dickens,  who  devoted 
a  chapter  (IV.,  Auierieau  Notes)  to  it,  and  Fredrilca  Bremer,  who  speaks  of  the 
"  glorious  vie""  irom  Drewcroft's  Hill  on  a  cold  winter  evening,  of  the  manulac- 
tories  of  Lowell  lying  below  in  a  half-eircle,  glittering  with  a  thousand  lights,  like 
a  magic  castle  on  the  suow-eovered  earth." 

By  going  to  the  upper  end  of  Merrimac  St.,  and  turning  to  the  1.,  one 
comes  to  the  bridge  over  the  Merrimac,  from  whicji  a  view  of  Pawtucket 


f 


BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 


liouteSO.     191 


.1  at  present 
:early.  '-'^ 
:ho  Lawronce 
tho  Tremoiit 
>e  Merrimao 
eecded  along 
le  Middlesex, 
)ii  the  canal, 
!iam  St. 
§11,000,000, 
o8G  sj)imllo.H 
charcoal,  and 
5,020  horse- 
G(i2  tons  of 
chief  annual 
■ds  of  carpet- 
ds  of  cloth, 
n  addition  to 
)wer  derived 
inal,  another 
10  Merrimac. 
^ratives  were 

entirely  by 
E>,000  opera- 
ct  of  a  New 
h  (Catholic), 
e  Sisters  of 

62  schools, 
idd  Fellows. 
3ntains  long 
and  a  vener- 
is St.  John's 
organized  in 
)n  Merrimac 
jciatiou  has 
am  Sts. 

ho  have  trav- 
,  who  devoted 
poalvs  of  tho 
tho  niauul'ac- 
id  lights,  like 


3  the  1.,  one 
P  Pawtucket 


Falls  and  the  canal  entrance  may  be  gained.     On  a  little  enrailed  green 

[on  Merrimac  St.  the  city  has  erected  a  luonnment  to  two  of  her  young 
iiien,  Ladd  and  Whitney,  who  belonged  to  tho  6th  Mass.  Militia  ileg., 
and  were  killed  during  the  murderous  attack  on  that  corps  l*y  the  roughs 
of  Udtimore,  April  1!',  1S61.  Near  this  niominipiit  is  a  *  bronze  statue 
of  Victory,  by  the  celebrated  German   sculptor,  Kauch,  which   has  been 

I  ( rectetl  as  a  memorial  to  the  men  of  Lowell  who  fell  in  lighting  against 

I  the  Rebellion.  "  j=     \ 

After  leaving  Lowell,  the  line  follows  the  Merrinuic  River  to  Concord. 

>  A  seat  on  the  r.  is  preferable.  Stations,  ^fiddlcscx,  and  X.  Chrhiisford. 
Middlesex  is  at  the  N.  end  of  the  old  Middlesex  Canal,  running  from  this 
point  to  Boston,  27  M.  It  was  completed  in  180S,  at  a  cost  of  S  r)2S,000, 
and  had  20  locks  in  a  fall  of  136  ft.,  but  since  the  era  of  railroads  began, 
it  has  been  neglected,  and  is  not  used.  At  N.  Chclmafard  the  Stony 
Brook  Railroad  comes  in  from  Groton  (Ayer)  Junction.  The  line  soon 
regains  the  banks  of  the  Merrimac  near  Wicassic  Falls,  and  stops  at 
Tyiuisbi'Ti)',  soon  after  which  it  crosses  the  State  line  and  enters  New 
Hampshire. 

r-'.- v-^  >, -1,-,.  iwi  -  ,•;  -    Nashua.       ■•.:■'>'    -^'^  ■         ^y '.  ..  :r,n  m^ 

Hotels,  *  Indian  Head,  conier  Main  and  Pearl  Sts.  ;  Treniont ;  MerrUnac,  oppo- 
site Iho  station,  i^i"  :   1  ■     -  I   ■    i- /   ;,^-    '    '-..'■     1'     .c.i.  )'   >ii. 

The  town  of  Dunstable  (in  which  Nashua  was  included)  was  settled 
before  King  Philip's  War,  and  was  bravely  defended  through  that  and 
the  succeeding  conllicts.  So  late  as  1803,  the  present  site  of  the  city  was 
a  sandy  plain  covered  with  j)ine-trees.  The  Nashua  Manufacturing  Co. 
Was  chartered  in  1823,  and  factories  were  erected  along  the  canals,  •while 
the  new  village  grew  in  importance,  until  in  1853  it  became  a  city. 

Nashua  is  u  pleas.int  city  (10,511  inhabitants),  "'uatcil  on  hilly  grouml 
at  the  conlluence  of  the  Merrimac  and  Nashua  Rivers.  It  has  11  churches, 
6  bodies  of  Masons,  3  of  Otld  Fellows,  and  1  daily  and  2  weekly  news- 
papers. The  streets  are  1  road  and  well-lighted,  and  lined  with  trees, 
while  some  of  the  churches  and  private  residences  arc  of  pleasing  ajipear- 
ance.  "  By  the  womlrous  alchemy  of  skill  and  enterprise,  out  of  the 
waters  of  the  Nashua  and  the  sands  of  this  pine  plain,  from  some  half 
a  dozen  dwellings  have  been  raised  up  these  thronged  and  beautiful 
villages." 

The  water-power  is  taken  from  Mine  Falls  on  the  Nashua  River,  from 
which  a  canal  has  been  cut  3  M.  long,  60  ft.  Avide,  and  8  fi.  deep,  with  a 
head  and  fall  of  36  ft.  The  Nashua  Manufacturing  Co.  and  other  cotton 
mills  have  over  2,000  operatives.  110  men  are  engaged  in  making  cards 
and  gla;5ed  paper  ;  150  men  make  locks;  75  make  fans;  40  make  hoop- 
skirts  ;  70  are  engaged  on  soapstone  work;  and  160  make  shuttles  and 
bobbins.     The  Underbill  Rlge  Tool  Co.  uses  100  tons  of  iron  and  steel 


111    i     rr 


>       ' 


I 


If 

■e     , 


..  ^ 


yl'  ' 


t; 


«1' 


If 

'i; 


192    noutc29. 


BOiSTON   TO   iMONTREAL. 


annually;  the  Vale  Mills  consume  500  bales  of  cotton;  ami  the  immense 
Nasliua  Iron  Works  cons:unie  3,000  tons  of  iron,  bOO  tons  of  steel,  and 
4,000  tons  of  coal  each  j'ca..  Besides  the  goods  already  mentioned, 
Na.shua  i^roduces  yearly  30,000  yards  of  ingrain  carpets,  and  16,000  bed- 
steads, - 

The  station  of  the  through  line  is  1  M.  E.  of  the  cciure  of  Nashua.  Tho  Wor- 
cester and  Nashua  station  is  on  tlie  niuin  street,  and  the  Boston  station  is  i  M. 
N.  of  it,  in  the  centre  of  the  city. 

KfUiliua  to  Wilton. 

From  the  latter  station  the  Wilton  Bnin<'h  R.  R.  runs  10  M.  N.  W.  to  Wilton. 
This  line  i  isses  througli  a  i)leasant  and  retired  liill-eountry,  uiueh  fretiuented  Ijy 
city  people  in  sunmier. 

Stations,  S.  Merrimac  and  Auihcmt.  Tlie  main  village  ol"  Amherst  town  is  some 
distance  N.  of  the  stiition,  and  tlie  jiojiuhir  Amherst  Spring  (good  hotel)  is  about 
y  M.  from  the  station  (stages  to  the  village  and  sjirings).  The  village  is  on  a  higli 
plain,  ^  M.  square,  and  abounds  in  shade-trees. 

This' town  was  granted  to  Essex  Co.  veterans  of  the  Narragansett  War,  and 
v.as  named  in  \H'A),  in  honor  of  Gen.  Amherst,  the  commander  in  the  Conquest 
of  Canada.  It  sent  120  men  to  the  Continental  Army,  although  its  population  in 
1775  was  larger  than  in  1S70.  In  a  small  fanuhouse,  5  M.  from  Amherst  village, 
Horace  Greeley  was  boi'n,  Feb.  Ij,  ISll.  He  learned  the  printer's  trade  in  Poult- 
ruy,  Vt.,  between  his  1011)  and  li>th  year,  and  soon  after  went  to  New  York,  where 
lie  started  several  ]japers  (tlie  Monti mj  J'v^t,  Nen'-Yurkcr,  Jcffersonian,  Log-Cabin). 
In  ISU  he  founded  the  A\w  Yorl:  Tribune,  which  became  one  of  the  nicst 
jirwcrful  and  spirited  of  the  New  York  newsjiajieis,  and  advocated  the  abolition 
of  slavery,  the  elevation  of  the  laboring  ( la.sses,  and  the  protection  (by  tarid) 
of  American  manufactures.  Mr.  Greeley  generally  sujqtorted  the  measures  of 
tiie  Republican  party  from  its  origin  until  1S72  altlioiigh  lavoring  a  more 
extended  amnesty  for  the  Southern  States.  In  1872  he  .joined  the  Liberal  party, 
Avhich  seceded  from  the  Republicans  on  account  of  dissatisfaction  with  Presideiii 
G'rant's  administration,  lie  was  nominated  as  candidate  for  the  Presidency  by 
the  Liberal  Convention  at  Cincinnati,  and  by  the  Democratic  Convention  at  Bal- 
timore. After  a  long  and  bitter  campaign.  Grant  was  re-elected,  and  soon  after, 
W()rn  out  by  toil,  Mr.  Greeley  <lied  near  New  York.  He  was  eccentric  in  many  of  his 
M'ays,  and  loved  a  quiet,  rural  life,  while  his  powerful  andiamgent  editorials  made 
him  the  leading  journalist  in  America. 

Station,  Milford  (Union  House  ;  Milford  Springs  House),  a  manufacturing  vil- 
lage on  the  broad  meadows  of  the  Souhegan  River.  Stages  run  daily  to  Moure 
y-r  un}  with  its  "  beautiful  ])rospect  of  towns  and  villages  in  the  Merrimac  aiii 
Souhegan  valleys.  Sunrise  in  summer  brings  to  view  a  vast  expanse,  including 
the  beautiful  villages  of  Massachusetts  ;  while  from  the  spire  of  the  church  car 
be  seen  the  snow-white  sails  upcn  the  distant  ocean.  The  name  is  a  fit  embki. 
of  the  spot;  for,  clustering  around  this  eminence,  are  numerous  farms,  intheiiiik 
seasons  clad  in  tlie  richest  verdure."  The  large  summer-hotel  was  partiull 
burned  in  1S72,  but  is  in  process  of  reionstruction. 

A  daily  stage  runs  from  Milford  to  Francestown  (small  inn),  the  birthplace  of 
Senator  Ijcvi  Woodbury.  The  town  has  one  mountain  and  two  lakes,  alsoaquan) 
of  line  gray  freestone. 

Station,  n'(7^o?i  (Whiting  House),  a  manufacturing  village  in  a  glen  on  th- 
Souhegan  River.  2,000  gallons  of  milk,  besides  other  dairy  products,  are  sent  t 
Boston  daily  from  tliis  town.  This  is  a  popular  summer  resort  (2^  hours  fioi. 
Boston),  l>eing  rich  in  hill-scenery  and  falling  waters.  Barnes'  Cascade,  Pai'i 
Monadnock  Mt,  and  Lyndeborough  are  often  visited.  A  daily  stage  runs  frot 
Wilton  to  Li/adcboroui/A  (Mountain  House).  -  . 

Nashua  to  Concord.    35  M. 

Stations  (on  the  main  line),  TlwrntorCs  Ferry,  Merriiruic,  Reed's  Fern 
Goff's  Falls,  and  Manchester. 


.%■   \ 


BOSTON   TO    MONTREAL. 


Route  29.     1 93 


the  immense 

of  steel,  and 

y  mentioned, 

(I  16,000  bed- 


liua.     The  Wor- 
II  sUition  is  \  M. 


W.  t«)  Wilton. 

h  lietiuontt'il  In 

Tst  town  is  some 
I  lioti'l)  is  about 
llage  is  on  a  hi^'li 

lausett  War,  and 

in  the  Conquest 

its  vopulatiou  in 

Anilierst  village, 

s  trade  in  Poult- 

Ki'W  York,  where 

mlan,  Log-Cabin). 

one  of  the  most 

vted  the  abolition 

itection  (by  taritt) 

the  measures  of 

fnvoring    a    nioii; 

the  L'beral  party, 

i(in  with  President 

the  Presidency  by 

Convention  at  Bal 

d,  and  soon  after, 

ntrie  in  many  of  his 

;ent  editorials  made 

manufacturin};  vil 
run  daily  to  3/oi(i.; 
the  Merrimac  an-: 
expanse,  ineludin, 
i  of  the  church  c;i: 
me  is  a  fit  enil)ki. 
us  farms,  in  the  mil 
tiotel  was  partiall 

)  the  birthplace  of 
o  lakes,  also  a  ipwn; 

'e  in  a  glen  on  tli- 
Iroducts,  are  sent  i 
^sort  (2^  hours  Iro;. 
rnes'  Cascade,  l';i^- 
ally  stage  runs  frut 


:irMC,  Reed's  Fern 


Manchester. 

Hotela.  Mancheste;  House,  Elm  St.  ;  City  Hotel  ;  Ht'janis  House  ;  AnioaUeag 
House. 

This  city  was  settled  early  in  the  last  century  by  conflicting  colonies  of  Scotch 
Presbyterians  and  Massachusetts  Puritans.  For  75  years  from  its  settlement. 
Derryheld  (^s  it  was  tlicn  'ailed)  ha»l  neitlier  a  mini.stor  nor  a  lawyer,  nor  did  it 
tjond'anyof  its  youth  to  college.  The  large  fisheries  at  the  Falls'nttractcd  the 
settlers  here. 

"  Frotii  the  eels  thev  formed  their  food  in  chief. 
,  And  eels  were  failed  the  '  Derryflrld  Ijcef  I 

And  the  marks  of  eels  wcr<'  m>  plain  to  triiee. 
That  the  cliildren  loolced  like  evU  in  the  thee." 

Manchester  (23,009  iiiliabitaiits)  is  the  mo.st  populou.s  city  in  New 
Hampshire,  and  is  built  on  a  broad  ])Iain  near  the  Merrimac  River,  Elm 
Street  is  its  principal  thoronglilare,  and  is  100  ft.  wide  and  over  a  mile 
long.  Public  sciuares,  with  ponds  enclosed  in  their  limits,  have  been  laid 
out  in  difl'ereiit  parts  of  the  city,  and  among  tlie  cliurches  may  bo  noticed 
the  Unitarian,  on  Beech  St.,  the  Catliolio  and  the  Einseo])al  on  Lowell 
St.,  and  the  Convent  and  Church  of  St.  Ann,  on  Merriniac  St.  The  City 
Library  contains  about  1G,000  volumes,  and  there  are  2  daily  and  2  weekly 
newspaper.-..  The  compact  lines  of  tenement-hoti.ses,  near  the  factories, 
were  built  for  the  operatives,  and  are  both  commodiotis  and  substantial. 
The  growth  of  tliis  city  has  been  very  rapid,  and  its  river-front  is  now 
lined  with  great  brick  factories,  a  striking  view  of  which  is  obtained  from 
the  W.  bank  of  the  river  (in  Golfstown). 

The  water-power  of  Manchester  is  funiished  by  the  Blodget  Canal, 
built  in  1816  aroimd  the  Amoskeag  Falls  on  the  Merrimac  River.  These 
Falls  have  a  descent  of  47  feet,  with  rapids  above,  and  in  high  water  they 
fttford,  even  now,  a  grand  siglit.  The  Amoskeag,  Stark,  and  Langdoii 
Mills,  and  tlie  Manchester  Print  Works  are  located  along  tlie  canal.  Thj 
Amoskeag  Co.  has  6  mills,  with  105,000  spindles,  employing  3,000  hands; 
and  38-40,000  bales  of  cotton  are  consumed  yearly  in  the  factories  of 
Ihe  city.  The  Print  Works  have  a  cai)ital  of  .$1,800,000,  and  employ 
8,200  hands  and  16  printing-machines,  with  3,000  horse-power,  printing 
20,000,000  yards  of  cloth  yearly.  The  Manchester  Locomotive  Worka 
•mploy  325  men,  and  make  50  locomotives  yearly,  besides  much  other 
heavy  work,  while  the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Co.  turns  out  many 
•team  fire-engines.  There  are  also  made  here  yearly  150,000  axes  ;  3,750 
Kovelty  sewing-machines  ;  22,000  barrels  of  ale;  many  thousand  dozen 
4les ;  and  several  hundred  tons  of  paper. 

Lake  Massabesio  (*  Massabcsic  ILmse,  100  guests,  $  2.50  a  day,  $  10.00 
a  week)  is  4  M.  E.  from  the  city,  on  the  Candia  road.  The  Portsmouth 
Railroad  has  a  station  near  the  hotel.  The  Lake  is  4  M.  long,  and  is 
▼wry  irregular  in  outline,  having  31  M.  of  shore,  with  some  beaches  of 
white  sand,  while  nximerous  picturesque  islets  dot  its  surface.  The  Fairy 
Grotto  luid  a  curious  sulphur  cave  (Devil's  Den)  are  often  visited. 
9  M 


,M 


J 


ii 


fi 


f 


if  I 


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n\  « 

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i 

)   ■      ■«. 

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( 

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4            '*'■ 

194    Route  29.  BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 

The  Miuicliesljr  and  N.  Weare  U.  R.  runs  X.  W.  19  M.,  jmssiiig  the  stations, 
Bedford,  Gotl'stown,  Tark*  r's,  Oil  Mills,  Hayinond,  and  E.  Weare,  to  N.  Weare, 
In  a  busy  inaniilactiirinK  tnwn.  'I'lif  ('oncoid  and  i'ortsnioutli  11.  R.  runs  from 
Mjinrhcster  to  Toi-tsmouth  in  IS  M.  ;  and  a  railroad  runs  S.  E.  to  l-awrence  in 
20  M. 

After  k'ivving  Manchester,  on  the  main  line,  the  train  passes  Martin's 
Ferry,  and  stops  at  Hc/kset  {-^ycr  House;  Stearns  Ilnnse).  Just  be- 
fore reaching  the  station,  the  Merriinac  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  TtiJO  ft.  long. 
This  village  is  the  seat  of  cotlon  factories  and  extensive  brickyards  (Inak- 
ing  4,000,000  bricks  a  year),  and  derives  considerable  water-power  from 
IG  ft.  falls  in  the  river.  In  the  W.  of  the  town  is  a  lofty  and  ragged 
pile  of  rgcks  called  Pinnacle  Mt.,  from  whose  summit  a  good  view  of 
the  valley  is  gained.  At  its  base  is  a  deep,  clear  pond  which  has  no 
visible  outlet.  This  town  is  on  the  reservation  given  by  Massachusetts  to 
Passaconoway,  the  great  Sachem  of  the  Pennacooks.  His  son  and  suc- 
cessor, Woi'.iiolancet,  was  converted  by  the  a])ostle  Eliot,  and  when  King 
Philip's  ardent  eloquence  had  iiersuaded  the  Pennacooks  to  enter  the 
nnti-Engiish  Cor  ederation,  he  resigned  the  sachemdom,  and  went  to 
Canada  with  his  family. 

A  branch  road  (over  which  some  throu^di  trains  pass)  crosses  the  river  at 
Ilookset  Falls,  and  runs  throuj^di  Suncook  and  rcnibroke  to  (Joncord.  i^uncnok 
(Suncook  House)  has  a  water-power  from  the  falls  in  the  Suncook  River,  near  its 
confluence  with  the  Meniniac. 

The  Suncook  Valley  R.  R.  runs  from  Ilookset  N.  E.  to  Pittaftdd  (20  M.),  passing 
the  stations,  Suncook,  Allenstown,  Short  Falli,  Chichester,  and  Webster's  Mills. 

The  main  line  passes  through  the  town  of  Bow,  and  tlie  W.  bank  of 
the  river,  and  enters 

Concord. 

Hotels.     *  Eagle  Hotel  ;  Phenix  House. 

The  territory  now  covered  by  Concord  was  granted  by  Massachusetts  l.i  1725, 
and  occupied  soon  after,  the  I'ennacook  Indians  giving  way.  It  was  named  Rum- 
ford  in  1733,  and  8  years  later  was  confirmcil  as  a  part  of  New  Hanipshire,  to  tha 
great  regret  of  the  settlers,  who  i>etitioiu'd  the  king  to  give  the  territory  back  to 
Mass.  At  the  breaking  out  of  war  with  Trance,  seven  timber  forts  were  Vjuilt, 
in  which  the  OG  men  of  the  town,  with  their  faniili(>s,  lived  in  state  of  siege. 
Several  of  the  townsmen  were  killed  or  captured.  For  many  years  a  litigation 
was  carried  on  between  the  proprietors  of  the  town  of  Bow  ami  the  Rumfordites, 
the  former  claiming  that  the  grant  from  Mass.  under  whiih  Rundnrd  was  settled 
was  illegal  and  void.  The  N.  U.  courts  decided  that  the  Mass.  gr/mt  was  value- 
less, and  then  the  vexed  colonists  sent  two  commissioners  with  an  appeal  to  the 
king.  He  decided  in  favor  of  the  Rumlord  people,  and  by  an  older  in  council 
confirmed  them  in  their  rights.  As  late  as  1772,  negroes  were  bought  and  sold 
here,  and  bears  and  wolves  were  very  trouV)lesonie  to  the  iarniers.  The  name 
Concord  was  adopted  in  17(35,  and  in  180j  the  town  was  made  the  State  capital. 

Concord,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  Hampshire,  is  a  handsome 
city  of  12,241  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Merriniac  lliver, 
equally  distant  from  the  ocean  and  from  the  Connecticut  River.  Main 
and  State  Streets  nxn  parallel  with  the  river,  and  are  broad  and  pleasant 
avenues.     The  abundance  of  .shade-trees  on  these  and  the  cross-streets 


BOSTON   Tl)   MO  XT  11  CAT.. 


ll>t((.' 2'J.     195 


ig  the  Htatiuns, 

,  to  N.  Weare, 

R.   runs  from 

to  I^fiwrence  in 


isses  Martin's 

<').     Just  be- 

e  TtjO  ft.  long. 

kyanls  (Inak- 

r- power  from 

,y  and  ragged 

good  view  of 

whicli  has  no 

ssachnsetts  to 

son  and  suc- 

nd  when  King 

to  enter  the 

and  went  to 


les  tlie  river  at 

icdrd.     i^uncnok 

River,  near  its 

(20  M.),  passing 
cbster's  Mills. 

e  W,  bank  of 


usetts  '..\  1725, 
IS  nunied  Rmn- 
npshire,  to  the 
ritory  back  to 
ns  were  built, 
slate  of  siege, 
rs  a  litigation 
[{lunfordites, 
nl  \va.s  settled 
u;t  was  valuc- 
ajipeal  to  tlio 
del'  in  council 
iiglit  and  sold 
IS.  The  n.'inie 
Late  capital. 

a  liandsonie 
riniae  River, 
.liver.  Main 
and  pleasant 

crcss-strcets 


gives  the  city  a  pleasant,  embowered  appearanc  ;j.     The  State  Capitol  is  a 

tine  structure,  fronting  acro.ss  a  small  park  on  Main  St.  It  is  built  of 
Concord  granite,  and  the  projecting  portico  is  sustained  by  eight  pairs  of 
coupled  columns.  The  State  Library  is  in  a  hall  opening  off  the  first 
lob>)y,  which  is  richly  decorated  with  the  colors  of  the  N.  II.  regiments  in 
the  Secession  War.  The  lialls  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representa- 
tives are  neat  and  commodious,  Tlie  building  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
and  graceful  dome,  from  which  a  j)leasant  view  is  obtained. 

The  City  Hall  and  Court  JIousc  is  on  Main  St.,  N.  of  the  Capitol,  and 
is  a  neat  brick  building,  surmounteil  by  a  round  dome. 

The  State  Prison  is  on  State  St.,  and  covers  2  acres  of  ground.  It  was 
established  here  in  1812,  and  on  May  1,  1S71,  Inul  91  convicts.  It  is 
carried  on  with  profit  to  the  State,  as  the  convicts  are  kept  busily  at 
work,  80  that  in  the  year  from  May,  1870, -May,  1871,  its  cost  was 
§17,328,  and  its  earnings  amounted  to  .S  22,9r>4. 

The  State  A  fii/l ion  for  the  Insane  has  fine  buildings  in  the  W.  part  of 
the  city.  It  was  founded  in  1842,  since  which  it  has  treated  over  3,0i)0 
l)atients.  Its  present  capacity  is  nearly  400  patients,  and  many  are  dis- 
charged yearly  as  perfectly  cured, 

Benj.iniin  Tlionii).siin,  Count  Fluniford,  t)orn  at  Wobuni,  Mass.,  17"»3,  was  long  a 
resident  of  Concord  (tlien  calli'd  Riiniiord).  At  the  lime  of  the  Revolution 
(hein^'  then  a  .s(h()ol-U"a(dier  at  Riunfon  ),  he  was  unjustly  suspected  of  disloyalty 
to  the  American  cause,  and  was  annoyed  until  he  toolc  refu};e  in  the  i'.ritish  lines. 
He  became  an  under  secretary  in  I.onl  ({trtuain<''s  cabinet  at  I.omlon,  and  after- 
wartls  raised  the  "  Kin/s  American  Dragoons"  in  New  York,  with  which  ho 
surjirised  .-iiid  di->i>erse(l  Marion's  men  (ITSii).  Fie  was  kniudited  by  Kim,'  rieor),'e, 
and  in  17Sl  bccami'  chandtcrlain  and  aid-de-i'aini)  to  tlie  llle  tor  ot  Havaria. 
Here  he  rcor;4anizeil  the  army,  suppressed  bej,'^,'ary,  made  the  I'arU  at  Munich, 
and  kept  the  Klectorate  neutral  durinj^  thr  Franco- Austrian  War.  He  was  made 
State  councillor,  lieut-{;en.,  minister  of  wa.',  count  (takin;.;  tlie  title  from  his  (dd 
home),  and  head  of  the  re:^'cni'y.  He  foun<hd  the  Royal  Institution  at  London, 
married  the  widow  of  Lavoisier,  and  becai  '•  one  of  the  leailiu^'  scientists  of 
Euro]>e.  He  diseoveri'd  that  heat  is  only  a  ,.iode  of  motion,  and  wrote  exten- 
sively on  liu'ht,  heat,  and  other  scientific  subjects.  He  endowed  a  prot"essorshii> 
in  Harvard  l.'niversity,  and  ]>asse<l  the  last  10  years  <d"  his  life  in  .scientitie  ex- 
l>eriments.  His  dan.^hter,  the  Countess  of  Rumford.  lived  in  Conccjrd  luitil  her 
<leath,  in  1S.')L'.  .V  line  l)roii/,e  statue  of  the  Coiuit  has  been  erected  in  one  of  the 
principal  iiromenades  of  Miuiiidi  (near  the  Hotel  des  Quatre  ISaisons). 

Abbot,  l>owninf:,  k  Co.'s  coa(di  and  exii.es.s-wa.^on  works  at  Concord  are  the 
largest  in  tlie  world,  and  their  wagons  are  sent  to  Ja]>an,  Ausrr.alia.  and  California, 
besides  beiu'.;  in  hij,'h  repute  throufrhont  the  Atlantic  States.  Hill's  harnesses 
(7'j  men  in  the  works)  are  also  sent  to  all  jiarts  of  the  world.  The  Preseott  Melo- 
deons  have  been  made  here  since  1H;',7,  and  a  furniture  comiiany  uses  .-?  l,(")0!),00 ) 
worth  of  lumber  yearly.  7'), 000  mackerel  kits  and  22,0ii0  lasts  are  made  here 
yearly.  At  Fisherville  are  lart^e  furnitiu-e  factories,  making,'  12-1'), 000  chamlter- 
sets  yearly,  much  of  which  is  sent  ti>  California.  Near  the  city  are  inexhaustible 
quarries  of  fine  granite,  which  is  sent  to  the  P^astern  cities  and  used  in  some  of 
the  finest  of  their  i)uV)li('  buildings. 

The  Blrchdalc  .^priinis  (small  hotel)  are  near  the  city,  and  should  be  visited  for 
the  sake  of  the  pleasant  drive.  Most  of  the  roads  about  Concord  are  level  and 
smooth,  and  afford  very  interestin<,'  rides. 

A  beautiful  ante-colonial  tradition  of  this  locality  is  iireserved  by  Whittier  in 
"  I'he  Hridalof  Pennaeook,"  one  of  his  longest  poems.  Ityivesaehanning  pii-ture 
of  the  Merriiuac  valley  centuries  ago,  when 


It 
i; 


lUG    Route  29. 


HUSTON   TO   MONTREAL. 


■V) 


i! 


'  'I 


■    \ 


i    : 


t  r. 


i  < 


>i 


1    f        • 


I 


**  In  their  Hlultcred  reposu,  liKjklnff  out  from  tJu'  wood 
The  l)iirk-hiiil(lrd  wl((WHin»  nt'  IN-nmiciok  sfcofj, 
There  Kliih'd  the  corn-ilutici',      !•  enuntil-flre  f  hone, 
And  RguhiNt  the  red  war-poxt  tin'  hatchet  wii»  thrown. 

There  the  ohl  i«mnked  In  dilcnee  their  pipen,  and  the  young 
I'd  the  pike  iind  the  vihite  pi  reh  tlieir  hiiited  lincN  fliing  ; 
There  the  Ifoy  Hiuipcd  liiN  iiriow,  niid  there  the  8liy  iiiiiid 
Wove  her  niuny-hued  ImskctH  uitd  liri^'iil  wumpu'm  hraid." 

t'oncard  to  t'laremnit.     .OO.j,  J/. 

Concord  and  narnnnnt,  and  SuKar  River  Railroads. 

Soon  after  leaving  t'onciird  the  lino  jiasscs  \V.  t'oncoril  and  stops  atContoooook, 
Avlifnce  a  binncli  mad  riniH  nj)  tlic  vnllcv  of  the  Cuntimconk  Uivcr  to  Hillshoroiicjh 
JlrUhje.  (15  M.  H.  K.).  In  tiiis  villag«(  is  the.  mansion  of  (Jov.  rierec,  wliere 
rranldin  I'irrcc  was  liorn  in  1804.  He  jiraelised  law  in  Concord  for  some  years, 
■Xvas  U.  H.  8eiiat<)r,  18.'}7-42,  and  hrii^'.-jicn.  in  Hie  Mexican  War.  At  the  Dciuo- 
ci at ic Convention  of  18.''v2  he  was  nominated  (on  the  40tli  liailot)fortlie  l*residen(!.v, 
Jind  defeated  Oen.  Scott,  tlie  Wliiy  candidate,  l>y  2>-i  electoral  votes  out  of  2'.KJ. 
During  liis  adniinistralion,  Arizona  was  annexed,  Kan.sas  ami  Nebraslsa  were 
opened  to  slavery,  and  the  Osteiid  Manifesto  (to  Spain)  was  issued.  Mr.  Tieii-e 
favored  the  pro-slavery  Jiarty,  anti  synii)atUized  with  the  Secessionists  in  the  war 

of  i.s«i-r>. 

From  Hillsborough  Bridge,  stagc-t  run  to  tlie  thinly -pojjulated  towns  to  the 
S.  and  W. 

Beyond  Contoocook  the  main  line  follows  Warner  River  through  the 
town  of  Warner,  in  which  there  are  four  stations. 

Station,  Bradford  (Bradford  House,  Breshy  House,  good),  a  pleasant 
village  near  Bradford  Bond,  which  is  '[\  M.  long,  and  contains  several 
islands.  Many  summer  visitors  stay  here  in  the  pleasant  hotels,  and  ex- 
plore the  mountainous  district  in  the  vicinity.  Lovewell's  Mt.  and 
Sunapee  Mt.  are  near  Bradford,  and  Mt.  Kearsarge  is  but  10  M.  distant 
(N.  E.).  5  M.  from  tlie  village  are  the  ])oi)ular  Bradford  Springs  (good 
hotel),  near  the  lake-studded  town  of  Washington.  Stages  run  daily 
from  Bradford  to  Ilillshorovgh  Bridge  (10  M.  S.)  Between  Bradford  and 
Sunapee,  the  railroad  passes  through  a  cutting  (at  Newbury  Summit) 
through  400  ft.  of  intensely  hard,  slag-like  rock.  Thi."-  cutting  was  one 
of  the  most  difficult  and  costly  in  tlie  United  States.  It  shoidd  be  seen 
from  the  roar  of  the  train. 

The  line  now  passes  along  the  S.  shore  of  Sunapee  Lake  for  nearly  2  M., 
with  Sunapee  Mt.  on  the  1.  Station,  Sunapee,  N.  of  which  is  the  village 
of  Sunapee  Harbor  (Young's  Lake  House).  Lake  Sunapee  is  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  9  M.  long,  and  averaging  2^  M.  wide.  It  abounds  in  fish, 
and  is  surrounded  1)y  romantic  scenery.  Tire  adjacent  towns  have  many 
sequestered  lakelets,  and  from  Suna])ee  Mt.  is  gained  a  pretty  view  of  the 
lake  and  liill-country,  with  Mt.  Kearsarge  to  the  E. 

Station,  Neuport  (Newport  Hou.se;  Phenix  House),  the  shire-town  of 
Sullivan  Co.,  a  pleasant  village  enwalled  by  hills,  and  situated  on  the 
Sugar  River.  Several  small  mountains  are  situated  in  this  town,  and  there 
are  romantic  glens  along  the  Sugar  River  and  its  branches.  Gunapec 
Lake  is  6  M.  distant,  and  Croydon  Mt.,  the  highest  summit  in  the  count}-, 


BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 


Route  20,     197 


« 


f'oiitoopook, 
llillshorouffh 
five,  w}iere 
soiiio  years, 

tlie  Dciiio- 
Prt'sidciicy, 
out  of  2'.t"(>. 
wiskii  were 

Mr.  Tit  rce 
^  ill  the  war 

tt'tjs  to  tlie 


rough  tlio 


a  pleasant 
lis  several 
•s,  and  ex- 

Mt.  and 
M.  (liotant 
nr/s  (good 
run  daily 
dlbrd  and 

Sunnnit) 
;  was  one 
1  be  seen 

arly2M., 
he  village 
beautiful 
s  in  fish, 
ve  many 
w  of  the 

town  of 
I  on  the 
nd  there 
Sunapee 

count  V, 


is  9  -  10  M.  N.  in  the  blenk  and  granito-strewn  highland  town  of  Croydon. 
Beyond  Newport  the  line  follows  the  impetuous  Sugar  Kiver  through  its 
glens  and  gorges  to  Claremont  (r/r/zt^);;^  Ifnnsr  ,■  SulUvdn  IIouki).  This 
town  was  settled  in  17(57  by  Connectirut  men,  and  was  named  for  Lord 
Clive'a  summer  mansion.  There  is  much  rich  alluvial  lantl  in  the  town, 
and  the  valley  is  bounded  by  a  great  range  of  hills,  ('larenu)nt  village  \% 
at  the  rapids  on  Sugar  Iliver,  where  a  fall  of  I'lO  ft.  in  less  than  a  milo 
gives  a  great  wat<'r-jiower.  The  Monadnoek  Mills,  the  Sugar  River  Papi-r 
Mills,  the  Clarenjont  Manufacturing  Co.,  the  C'laremont  Linen  Co.,  and 
other  corporations  have  their  works  here.  Imnunse  (piantities  of  ragH  are 
consumed  in  the  manufacture  of  paper,  500  tons  of  which  are  turned  out 
yearly.  Over  3,500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths,  70,000  yards  of  doeskins, 
70,000  yards  of  tlannels,  are  made  here  yearly.  Clareniont  village  has  .> 
churches  and  a  tine  high  schocd,  which  was  cn<lowed  by  raran  Stevens, 
the  American  hot<l-king.  Flat  Hi)ck,  Twist  Rack,  and  Bible  Hill  are 
visited  by  tho.se  who  summer  here,  whib.'  from  Green  Mt.  a  tine  view  of 
the  Conn,  valley  is  enjoyeil.     Ascutney  is  10  M.  N. 

2  M.  from  Claremont  the  railroad  connects  with  the  Vermont  Central, 
66^  M.  from  Concord  (.see  Route  24). 

The  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  and  Wliite  Mountains  R.  R.  nms  N.  from 
Concord  (see  Route  .10).  A  raihoad  is  iK-inK  tiuilt  to  Rochester,  40  M.  E.  of  Con- 
cord.    From  Concord  to  Porta inoutli,  see  Route  37. 

The  train  on  the  Montrea'  line  now  passes  on  the  rails  of  the  Northern 
(N.  H.)  R.  R. ,  and  runs  N.  .V)m  Concord  on  the  r.  baidi  of  the  Merrimac. 
Just  after  passing  the  manufacturing  village  of  FitihervUle,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Merrimac  and  Contoocook  Rivers,  the  train  cros.se3  a  bndge 
to  Duston's  Island,  and  thence  by  another  bridge  to  the  shore.  On  this 
island  Mrs,  Duston,  of  Haverhill,  killed  her  Indian  captors  and  escaped. 
The  line  now  runs  along  the  broad  intervales  of  Ilosca^ocn  (two  stations). 

In  this  town  were  born  C.  G.  Greene,  wlio  founded  the  "  Boston  Post "  in  18:;i  ; 
W.  P.  Fessenden,  the  eminent  and  powerful  U.  S.  Senator  from  Maine  (1851 -<;;>) : 
and  John  A.  Dix,  an  ofllcer  in  the  army,  1812-28,  U.  H.  Kenator  from  New  York. 
1845-1),  Major-Gen.  in  the  army  which  crushed  the  R»l)ellion  of  18G1-5,  and 
Minister  to  France,  lsi)7-<).  He  was  nominated  as  candidate  for  Gov.  of  New 
York  by  the  Free  Soil  Democrats  in  1848,  but  was  defeated,  and  in  1872  he  wad 
elected  Governor,  which  otlice  he  now  occupies. 

Stations,  Webster  Place  and  Franklin  (Webster  House  ;  Franklin 
House).  2  M.  S.  \V.  of  Franklin  village  Daniel  Webster  w^as  born,  in 
1782.  The  family  moved  to  a  new  home  near  Webster  Place,  ami 
he  afterwards  bought  this  latter  estate,  and  used  to  retire  there  to  rest. 
Franklin  village  is  near  the  confluence  of  the  Winnepesaidcee  and  Pemi- 
gewasset  Rivers,  which  fonu  the  Merrimac.  It  is  a  thriving  mechani- 
cal village,  situated  in  the  valley  below  the  railroad,  and  makes  yearly 
150,000  pairs  of  socks,  120,000  yards  of  flannel,  and  600  tons  of  paper. 


-^ 


t; 


198    itoiUf^o. 


B08T0N  TO  MONTREAL. 


I      V 


5 


,      ! 

J,       ■ 

1 

•  i 


n 


I 


u 


A  branch  road  runs  from  tliis  point  \ii>  tlio  Feniigewn.s.set  vuUey  18  M. 
to  Bristol.  Nciir  the  station  at  Hill  Village  (Seriat*'  'louse)  Teriwig 
Mt.  is  seen  on  the  1.  liristol  (Bristol  House)  is  ..  ,,.Ltty  village  snr- 
rounded  by  Idlls,  at  thcoonllncnceof  the  Newfound  and  the  IVinigewasset 
Rivers.  In  tlio  last  80  rods  of  its  course  the  Newfound  River  falls  100  ft., 
alTording  a  good  water-power.  About  2  M.  N.  of  Bristol  is  the  beautiful 
Newfound  Luke,  7  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide.  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  is  on  the 
\V.  shore,  and  (!rosl)y  Mt.  is  on  the  E.  A  daily  stage  runs  from  Bristol, 
on  a  road  which  gives  frecpient  glimpses  of  the  lake,  to  Uefrron  (Union 
House),  near  its  N.  end. 

After  leaving  Franklin,  the  main  lino  passes  Webster  Pond  and  tha 
blealc  and  precijjitous  range  of  Ragged  Mt.  on  the  r.,  and  stops  at  the 
quiet  little  village  of  /i'.  Andot'cr  (Lake  House),  near  its  long,  l)rightlake. 
The  next  station  is  Putter  1*1  'ce  (Kearsarge  House),  named  for  the  magician 
Potter.  Stages  run  from  this  station  to  Mount  Kearsarge  (1  M.  S.),  an 
isolated  peak,  with  a  rocky  summit  2,401  It.  above  the  sea.  It  affords  a 
noble  *  view  in  a  clear  day,  including,  on  the  \V.,  Sunapee  and  Lovewell's 
Mt.,  and  the  blue  Sunapeo  Lake,  and  Croydon  and  Ascutney,  with  the 
vast  range  of  the  Green  Mts.  clising  tin;  horizon  behind  them.  In  the  N. 
is  Cardigan  Mt.,  with  the  Pemi'^ewasset  Mts.  in  the  distance,  and  swing- 
ing around  to  the  r.  are  the  Franconia  and  the  White  Mts.,  with  Lake 
Winncpesankco  in  the  N.  E.  In  the  nearer  E.  is  the  thronged  and  pros- 
perous valley  of  the  Merrimac,  while  countless  villages  dot  the  landscape 
on  every  side.  Far  up  on  the  sloping  side  of  the  Mt.  is  the  Winslow 
House,  a  far-viewing  sunnner-hotel. 

The  Aniorican  fri;;iitc  "  Kears.irye."  wliic)  k  the  rebel  cruiser  "  Alabama  " 

off  Cherbourg  in  Ibi'A,  was  built  on  the  N.  .  it,  ami  named  fur  tliis  muuiitain. 

Her  captiiin  was  John  A.  Winslow,  in  whose  nonor  the  hotel  is  nuuied. 

Stations,  W.  Andover,  tS.  Ikmhvnj,  and  Grafton  (Pleasant  Valhiy 
House).  Grafton  is  S.  of  Cardigan  Mt.,  and  at  Glass  Hill  great  quanti- 
ties of  mica  are  mined.  The  Pinnacle,  on  this  hill,  has  a  sharp  precipice 
150  ft.  high  on  its  N.  side.  Beyond  (Jrafton  Centre  the  line  jiasses  Lsing- 
glass  Mt.  and  Tewksbury  Pond  on  the  1.,  and  stops  at  Canaan  (two  small 
inns  in  the  town).  In  the  43  M.  between  Concord  and  Grafton  the  rail- 
way has  ascended  over  800  ft.  It  now  takes  a  slight  down  grade,  follow- 
ing the  valley  of  the  Mascomy'  to  the  Conn.  River.  The  pretty  village  of 
Canaan  Street  lies  on  the  shore  of  Heart  Pond,  a  lakelet  wliich  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  naturally  formed  dike  of  earth.  Fi-om  Canaan  a  much- 
travelled  highway  runs  N.  across  Dorchester  to  W.  Rumney  ou  the  B.  C. 
k  M.  R.  R. 

'  The  line  now  enters  Enfield,  and  skirts  Mascomy  Lake  (or  Enfield 
Pond),  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  4  M.  long,  on  whose  S.  W.  shore  is  a 
community  of  Shakers.     These  industrious  people  furnish  much  fine  wool 


riOSTOX  TO   MONTREAL. 


IlovtfiO.     190 


ey  18  M. 
Periwig 
lago  sur- 
ij^cwassct 
s  100  ft., 
heantiful 
is  on  till) 
I  Bristol, 
in  (Union 

1  and  thj 
ps  at  the 
ight  lake. 

magician 
kl.  S.),  an 

afTords  a 
jOvcweir.s 

with  the 
In  the  N. 
nd  swing- 
,ith  Luke 
and  pros- 
landscape 

Winslow 


Alabama  " 
luuuntaia. 


it  Valley 
it  quanti- 

prccipico 
ses  Lsing- 
two  small 

the  ruil- 
e,  I'oUow- 
I'illage  of 
ill  is  sur- 

a  much- 
the  B.  C. 

Enlield 
hore  is  a 
fine  wool 


to  the  market,  also  wooden-war"  and  garden  senis.  In  this  town  arc  the 
Granite  State  and  Monnt  Culm  Hotels,  with  some  qnict  and  romantic 
Bcencry  oromid  Crystal  Lake  ami  Mount  Calm. 

Stations,  /.'.  Lrhnnmi  ami  Lrh,!ti»i  (llamiltf)n  House),  a  manufftctur'nf» 
vill.iu"'  on  an  ehv.itnl  plain  iit-ar  tlie  Falls  on  the  .Mascomy  (Nov-Anglivi' 
for  the  Indian  M:isc<ima).  F' ..,.ie  riponp'.  .scythes,  Hour,  and  ma<!hine'» 
are  made  here.  Station,  M'.  Lrhannn  (small  hotel),  the  seat  of  Tilden 
LailieV  Seminary,  whose  fhie  buildings  are  seen  on  a  commanding  hill  to 
the  1.  Tlie  line  now  crosses  tin;  Connecticut  Hiccr  v^  an  t>\>vn  bridge, 
all'i'niiiig  gi!;)il  views  u]»  and  down  stnaiii,  and  stojis  at  White  Eiver 
Junction  {Junction  House,  good).  This  is  an  important  point  in  tlio 
northern  railway  systems,  the  roails  wla^h  converge  here  being  the 
Northern  (N.  11.)  II.  U.,  the  southern  and  central  divisions  of  the  Ver- 
mont Central  U.  R.,  and  the  Connecticut  and  rassumi)sicand  Massawippi 
Vallev  U.  H.  By  the  nearest  routes  this  Junction  is  distant  from  iJoston 
14*2  M.;  from  New  York,  2'iO  M. ;  from  Concord,  (l!*  M. ;  from  Spring- 
field. T24  M.;  from  Burlington,  Vt.,  104  M. ;  from  Mcmtreal,  184  M.; 
from  Quebec,  20t)  M.  (These  figures  are  from  the  Oflicial  Guide,  pub- 
lished at  I'hiladdphia.  Of  the  .seven  other  books  which  allude  to  the 
■subject  no  two  agree. ) 

Tliere  is  a  good  restaurant  in  the  station,  and  trains  usually  stop  long 
enough  for  a  dinner  to  bo  obtained.  The  train  jtasses  now  on  to  the  rails 
of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  a  pleasant  rural  dis- 
trict, and  achieves  the  passage  of  the  Green  Mts.  by  some  fine  engineer- 
ing works.  .  lie  i)ictures(pie  White  River  is  followed  for  25  M.  Stations, 
Wldte  liirrr  Villfitje  (on  the  r.)  and  WoodatocL;  whence  a  daily  stage 
runs  to  Bridgewater,  15  iM.  S.  K.,  the  road  passing  up  the  valley  of  the 
Otla  Qucchce  River.  Woodstock  village  (Eagle  Hotel),  the  shire  town  of 
Windsor  Co.,  is  on  this  road,  10  M.  from  the  railway,  and  is  a  beautiful 
rural  hamlet  with  an  elm-adorned  park  in  the  valley  of  the  Otta  Quecheo. 
From  Mt.  Tom  (near  the  village)  a  pleasing  view  is  obtained  down  the 
long  valley  of  the  river.  The  village  has  two  weekly  journals,  a  bank, 
and  a  large  country  trade,  besides  some  manufactures. 

Geor;,'p  P.  Marsh.  U.  8.  Minister  to  Turkey,  13J0-53,  ami  to  Italy,  1861-73, 
was  liorn  here  iii  lilOl.  lie  is  distinj^uisheil  as  a  i)hilolugist,  in  coniiection  with 
the  Nur.se  lan^^uagf.  Ilirain  Puwers  was  honi  lieie  in  18Uf>.  lie  was  a  fanner's 
son,  iind  after  many  vicissitudes  lie  learnct'  the  art  of  inndelling  in  plaster,  and 
opened  a  studio  in  Flori'iioc  about  18;17.  Suici!  tinni  lie  has  executed  some  of  tlie 
finest  sculptures  of  modern  times.  His  "  f]ve  "  was  hi,i,'lily  commeudeil  by 
Thorwaldsen,  and  the  "Greek  Slave"  was  a  iiob'.e  work,  of  which  copies  have 
been  multiplied.  "II  Penseroso,"  "California,"  "Americia,"  "Proserpine," 
and  numerous  other  reiiuwued  works,  including  portrait-statues,  have  given  him 
the  highest  rank  among  sculptui's. 

Beyond  Woodstock  station  the  line  crosses  the  crystal-clear  river,  and 
passes  through  the  pretty  scenery  about  W.  Hartford  to  Sharon  station. 

The  village  is  si.'en  high  up  on  the  opposite  shore. 


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200    Rmite20. 


HOSTON   TO   MONTREAL. 


In  1805,  Joseph  Smith,  the  founder  of  Monnonism,  was  born  at  Sharon.  In 
1830  he  published  (at  Palmj-ra,  N.  Y.)  the  Book  of  Mormon,  which  he  claimed  to 
have  translated  from  metallii-  plate-s  found  by  him  while  under  the  guidance  of 
angels.  Ho  went  West  with  his  converts,  and  founded  Nativoo,  in  Illinois,  where 
he  exercised  despotic  nuthority  until  1S44,  when  the  wrath  of  the  "Gentiles"  in 
the  neighboring  towns  was  amused  by  his  un.just  acts.  He  was  imprisoned  at 
i'arthage,  and  soon  after  the  jail  was  stormed  by  a  nioh,  au<i  lie  was  killcil.  IJrig- 
ham  Young  succeeded  liim  as  "  L*rcsi(i(  nt  of  the  Churcli,"  and  still  maintains  the 
litlc.  (Rev.  Holomon  Hj^.tldiug,  of  Conn.,  wrote  a  romance,  "The  Maiinsrript 
Found  "  (in  ISO',)).  He  allowed  Si<incy  Rigdon  and  others  to  rcail  his  MS.,  wliich 
was  soon  after  stolen  from  his  widow,  anci  tliose  who  had  read  the  romance  after- 
ward declared  tiiai  tiie  Mormon  Bible  was  but  a  corrupt  vei-sion  of  it.  Rigdon 
became  a  prominent  Mormon). 

Station,  S.  Roijalton  (S.  Royaltoii  House,  good),  with  the  station  on 

one  side  of  its  main  square,  on  which  front  the  hotel,  cliurch,  and  stores. 

The  river  is  now  crossed  by  a  bridge  GOO  ft.  long,  and  the  train  stops  at 

Royalton,  wheie  occurred,  in  October,  1780,  tlie  Last  Indian  attack  on 

New  England.     The  attack  was  maiie  hy  210  Indians,  who  i)lnndered  and 

burnt  the   village   (and  also  Sharon),  killing  and   capturing  27  of  its 

people. 

Dnilystages  N.  to  r/ie^.s-m  (Orange  Co.  House),  the  shire-town  of  Orange  CVmnty, 
passing  through  Tnnbridge  (13  M.).  Also  N.  W,  through  V..  Bethel  and  E.  Ran- 
dolph, to  E.  Brookticld  (1  i  M.). 

Station,  Bethel  (Bethel  House),  a  busy  inainifacturing  village,  in  a  glen 
among  liigh  hills.  Daily  stages  to  Barnard  (Silver  Lake  House),  8  M. 
distant,  and  to  Wooddock.  Also  to  Stnckbridge  (10  M.),  Pittsfield  (13 
M.),  Rochester  (17  M.),  and  Hancock,  four  thinly  populated  towns  (with 
small  inns),  under  the  shadow  of  the  Green  Mts. 

Station,  Randolph  (Cott.^ge  House  ;  Chad  wick  House),  a  busy  village 
on  the  third  branch  of  White  River,  which  the  railroad  follows  from 
Bethel  to  Roxbury.  Stages  run  to  Chelsea,  Bronkjicld,  and  Randoljjh 
Centre  (3  M.  N.  E.).  The  country  now  groAvs  wilder  and  more  thinly 
inhabited.  Station,  Braintree,  a  rude  village  surrounded  by  rugged  hills. 
To  the  W.  is  Granville,  with  a  road  crossing  the  mountain-pass,  2,340  ft. 
above  the  sea.  At  Roxbury  station  (Summit  House),  the  train  reaches 
the  summit  of  the  pass,  1,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Near  the  village  are 
inexhaustible  quarries  of  the  best  verd-antique  marble.  Crossing  a 
bridge  400  ft.  long  and  70  ft.  high,  the  train  passes  on  to  Northjield 
(Northfield  House),  in  a  populous  town  which  has  several  quarries  of 
dark  blue  slate.  Tlie  so-called  Norwich  University  (Vt.  Military  Insti- 
tute) is  situat'id  here,  in  large  buildings  on  a  hill  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

10  M.  from  Northfield  is  Muntpelier  Jiniction,  whence  a  short  branch 
road  diverges  to  Montpelier  (Pavilion  Hotel,  opposite  the  station,  a  good 
house  and  moderai;e  charges  ;  Bishop's  Hotel).  Montpelier,  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  Vermont,  is  a  beautiful  village  of  about  3,000  inhabi- 
tants. K  is  situated  on  a  plain  near  the  Winooski  River,  and  is  sur 
rounded  })y  a  highly  cultivated  hill-country.     10  M.  to  the  S.  W.  is  the 


5'. 


\ 


> 


I. 


^ 


BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL 


Route  20.     201 


Sharon.  In 
B  claimed  to 
guidance  of 
inois,  where 
.if utiles"  in 
ij)risonpd  at 
illcil.  15rig- 
aiiitains  tlie 
M.'imiM'ript 
.MS.  wliich 
nance  after- 
it.     Iligdon 

station  on 
ind  stores. 
Xn  stops  at 

attack  on 
iidered  and 

27  of  its 


nge  County, 
md  E.  Ran- 


),  in  a  glen 

)use),  8  M. 

tsfield  (13 

)wns  (with 

usy  village 
lows  from 
RandoljjJi 
ore  thinly 
gged  hills. 
,  2,340  It. 
in  reaches 
illage  are 
'rossing  a 
Norihjield 
Harries  of 
;ary  Insti- 
e  track, 
rt  branch 
)n,  a  good 
le  capital 
)0  inhabi- 
id  is  snr 
W.  is  the 


} 


> 


geographical    centre  of  the  State.     The  village  is  compactly  bnilt,  and 

has  2   banks,  3  insurance    cos.    (the   Vt.   Mutual   has  §  37,O00,0tiU  of 

risks),  4  weekly  newspapers,  and  7  churches,  one  of  wliicli  is  a  noble 

piece  of  archite'^turc.      There  are  several  flour-mills,  lumber-mills,  and 

tanneries,   besides  which   the   village   has   an   extensive   country   trade. 

The  *  State  HoURe  is  a  noble  edifice  of   light-colored  granite,  on  the 

site  of  the  old  State  House,  which  was  burnt  in  IS/i/.     It  stands  on  a 

slight  eminence  approached  from  a  verdant  Common  by  granite  steps  in 

torraci!S.     The  portico  is  supported  V)y  six  massive  fluted  Doric  columns, 

and  under  it  stands  a  fine  statue  in  Vermont  marble  of  Vermont's  hero, 

Ethan  Allen.     It  was  executed  by  Larkin  G.  Mead,  of  Brattleboro'  (now 

living  iii  Italy). 

Ethan  Allen  was  bom  at  Litchtield,  Conn.,  in  1737.  He  moved  to  Vermont 
in  1 700,  and  was  outlawed  liy  New  Vori<  for  his  bold  and  deli.int  ai'tioii  in  the 
?X)rder  fend-;.  In  177')  he  took  Fort  Tieonderoga  from  the  IJritish.  Later  in  the 
year  he  attacked  Montreal  with  110  men,  and  was  captured,  with  his  whole  com- 
mand. He  was  confined  in  Pendennis  Castle,  in  Kngland,  ftn- a  shor*  time,  but 
was  exchange<l  in  177S,  and  took  eonnnand  of  the  Vermont  militia.  A  royal  de 
cree  of  17(34  had  constituted  the  Connecticut  River  the  E.  lioumhiry  of  New 
York  (N.  of  Mass.),  and  Mass.  and  N.  H.  also  claimed  i)arts  of  its  territory.  But  a 
convention  at  Westminster,  in  1777,  declared  Vermont  a  free  State.  The  Conti- 
nental Congress  would  not  ratify  this  voice  of  the  people,  and  all  its  troops  were 
withdrawn  from  the  territory.  Vermont,  tlius  left  ah)nc,  was  unable  to  resist  at- 
tacks from  the  British  in  the  N.,  and  Aden  skilfully  conducted  feignecJ  negotia- 
tions with  the  royal  generals,  looking  towards  annexation  to  Canada,  and  secur- 
ing neutrality  for  his  State.  It  was  only  in  1701,  after  20  years  of  controversy, 
that  Vermont  was  adnutted  into  the  Union,  —  to  otlset  Kentucky.  Afti^r  ajt 
eventful  life,  Ethan  Allen  died  at  Burlington  in  1789. 

Under  the  portico  of  the  State  House  are  kept  two  cannon  taken  from 
Breyman's  Hessians  at  the  battle  of  Bennington  (1777),  after  a  desperate 
struggle,  'llie  British  got  them  back  when  (}cn.  Hull  surrenilered  the 
Army  of  the  N.  W.  at  Detroit  (August,  1812),  and  tiiey  were  again  taken 
by  the  Americans  during  the  Canada  campaign.  They  were  sent  to 
Washington,  and  afterwards  Avere  presented  by  Congress  to  the  State  of 
Vermont.  The  main  building  of  the  State  lfou.se  is  72  ft.  long,  and  each 
of  the  wings  is  ,o^  ft.,  nuiking  a  total  length  of  176  ft.  The  dom.e  is 
124  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  gr-icel'ul  statue  of  Cores,  the  goddess 
of  agriculture.  The  marble-paved  lower  floor  is  devoted  to  committee- 
rooms,  and  a  small  collection  of  historical  and  mineral  curiosities.  In 
large  niches  at  the  ends  of  the  neat  lobby  on  the  second  floor  are  pre- 
served the  battle-flags  and  pennons  of  the  Vermont  regiments  in  the 
Secession  War.  Wliat  with  storm,  forest-marcli,  and  many  battles,  these 
veteran  standards  have  lost  their  pristine  brightness  and  wholeness,  and 
with  the  names  of  the  battles  in  which  tlicy  were  boriie  written  on  them 
in  golden  letters,  they  are  carefully  kept  behind  plate-glass.  Tlie  gallery 
of  the  Senate  is  entered  from  the  third  floor.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and 
House  are  well  worth  visiting,  being  graceful  in  fonn  and  well  ornamented. 
A  substantial  stone  bridge  crosses  the  Winooski  River  at  Montpelier,  and 


202    Ji(^iiic  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


iM 


;'; 


H 


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1 : 

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N 

,• 

I 

it  '' 

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20 
R 


the  country  about  the  village  aftbrds  many  pleasant  objective  points  for 
a  summer  day's  ride  or  ramble.  .    ,         ,      /    ,  .        . 

Daily  stages  to  Worrester,  7  M.  N.  (Worcester  House),  aii<l  tri-weekly  to  Elmore, 

M.  is^     Daily  sta;,'(;.s  to  llardv:u:k,  20  M.  N.  E.,  on  tiii'  rortland  and  Ugdensbutg 

IV.   H.,   passiii,^  tliiDU^'li  Ciilnis  (12  M.  ;   Moscow  It(iiisc)  and  Woodhur}!,    tliiiily 

Eoi>ulat('d  towns  witli  scores  of  small  lakes  ahonndin^'  in  trout  and  other  lisii. 
»aily  stages  to  Marshlicld,  15  M.  N.  JO.,  on  the  Great  Falls  of  Uie  Winooski,  where 
that  stream  falls  500  ft.  in  ;iO  rods.  Also  to  I'ldivjii'ld,  0  M.  E.  (Plainflcld  Honse), 
with  a  inedicdnal  .spring  (Spring  Hoiise)  of  some  repute  ;  to  Has/iijif/^on  (Washing- 
ton ilonse,  Lake  House),  lo  M.  S.  E.  ;  to  Uraiuje,  13  M.  8.  E.  ;  to  ll'Uliainstuwn, 
and  to  JJarre  (liarre  House),  0  M.  .S.  E. 

Beyond  Montpelier'  Junction  the  main  line  passes  on  to  Middlesex 
(Washington  House),  near  wliicli  (on  llie  1.)  the  Winooski  River  pusses 
through  the  Middlesex  Narrows,  a  cutting  in  the  rock,  J50  ft.  deei),,GO  It. 
wide,  and  1,3()U  It.  long,  which  has  been  worn  by  the  action  of  the  water. 
Stages  run  S.  to  Mvretown  (7  M. ),  Waitsficld  (12  M. ),  and  Warren.  Beyond 
Middlesex  the  train  reaches  Waterbury  (*  Waterbury  House),  a  highland 
town  abounding  in  pleasant  rambles  and  rides,  wilh  Ireiiuent  glimpses  of 
Camel's  Hump  (in  the  S.  W.).  Camel's  II amp  Mi.  is  8  M.  distant,  and 
Ihjlton  Falls  are  but  3  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  and  both  are  approached  by 
good  roads.  N.  E.  of  Waterbury,  10  M.  (semi-daily  stage  in  summer)  is 
the  rich  farming  town  of  Stow  (*  Mansfield  House,  opened  in  18G.1, 
•iccommodates  3  -  400  guests,  at  .$  3.50  a  day  ;  considerable  reductions  for 
a  long  stay.  100  horses  are  kept  in  the  stables).  Stow,  "  the  Saratoga 
of  Vei-mont,"  is  charmingly  situated  in  a  fpdet  valley  in  full  sight  of  lofty 
mountains,  and  when  filled  with  summer  guests  it  presents  a  lively  ap- 
pearance. '*  Stow  is  unrivalled  in  the  beauty,  picturesrpieness,  and  luxu- 
riant magnificence  of  its  mountain  scenery."  From  Sunset  Hill,  near  the 
hotel,  a  line  view  of  the  village  is  obtained,  and  .ahso  of  Mt.  Mansfield 
and  Camel's  Hump.  3-4  M.  N.  E.  of  Stow,  on  the  slope  of  Worcester  Mt ., 
are  the  Mo.'is  Ulcn  Falls,  in  a  narrow,  rock-walled  ravine  which  contains 
three  picture.sque  basins.  This  bit  of  Tyrolese  scenery  has  been  greatly 
danuvg(!d  by  the  erection  of  a  saw-mill,  for  whose  benefit  the  falls  aio 
dammed  above.  The  Smugglers'  Notch  is  a  romantic  i»ass  between  the  Nose 
Peak  of  Mt.  Mansfield  and  Sterling  Mt.  (3,500  ft.  higli).  It  is  9  M.  irom 
Stow,  and  a  good  road  leads  to  a  small  hotel  tii  the  Notch,  near  tlie  great 
spring  which  is  the  source  of  the  Waterbury  River.  A  horse-path  beyond 
the  hotel  leads  in  ^^  M.  to  Jjerton's  Rock,  a  boulder  weighing  about  111) 
tons,  which  fell  from  the  abrupt  clifls  that  tower  on  each  side  to  t!ie 
height  of  1,000  ft.  A  little  way  beyond,  the  path  begins  to  descend  to 
the  plains  of  Cambridge.  This  pass  was  used  during  the  War  of  1812  for 
smuggling  goods  l)etween  Central  Vermont  and  Canada.  A  few  miles  N. 
is  Daniel's  Notch^  between  Sterling  Mt.  and  the  lofty  White  Face.  Bing- 
ham's Falls,  5  M.  from  Stow,  Morrisville  Falls,  8  M.,  West  Hill,  2  II., 
and  GoM  Brook,  3  M.,  are  often  visited. 


BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 


Route  20.     203 


points  for 


ly  to  Elmore, 

I  Ugdenshutx 
'hitri/,  tliinly 
d  oilier  lisli. 
looski,  wlicrc 
field  House), 
on  (WasliiiiK- 
"UliaiiLiitvKii, 


I  Middlesex 
liver  passi's 

f  tlic  water. 
en.  Beyond 
,  a  higlJaiul 
?;limpses  of 
distant,  r.nd 
proached  by 
summer)  is 
3d  in  ]SG.>, 
luctions  for 
le  Saratoga 
ight  of  loft  y 
a  lively  ap- 
s,  and  hixu- 
ill,  near  the 
t.  Man.sfield 
ircesterMt., 
ch  contains 
leen  greally 
lie  falls  aro 
ien  the  Nosw 
)  9  M.  iroiii 
ir  the  great 
jath  beyond 
:  al)0ut  r.  0 
side  to  t!ie 
descend  to 
of  1812  for 
!vv  miles  N. 
'ace.  Biiig- 
Ilill,  2  M., 


)> 


Mount  Mansfield. 

This  is  the  loftiest  of  the  Green  Mts.,  and  its  highest  peak  is  4,348  ft. 
ftbove  the  sea.  As  seen  from  above  Stow  it  presents  the  appearance  of 
the  profile  of  a  human  face,  the  S.  peak  l)eing  the  forehead,  the  middle 
peak  the  nose,  and  the  N.  peak  the  chin. 

After  leaving  Stow,  the  highway  is  followed  for  5  M.,  and  then  a 
mountain  road  turns  to  the  1.,  ascen<liiig  through  the  forest,  2.\  M.,  to  tlie 
Half- Way  House,  from  wliich  a  pretty  valley  view  is  gained.  Hero 
begins  the  long  and  arduous  ascent  to  tlie  Summit  House.  The  forest 
dwindles  away  until  tlie  path  reaches  the  Nose,  whence  a  view  is  given 
into  the  profound  depths  of  the  Smugglers'  Notch.  The  Summit  House 
is  a  commodious  hotel  (for  100  guests  ;  -S  3.50  a  day)  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Nose.!  which  is  climbed  l)y  a  steep  path  on  its  W.  slope  (2 -.300  ft. 
high).  On  the  E.  side  of  this  peak  is  the  rock-prolile  called  the  "Old 
Man  of  the  Mt."  About  2  M.  of  steady,  though  not  fatiguing  ascent 
leads  from  the  house  to  the  Chin,  passing  over  ledges  marked  by  long 
scratches  once  received  from  rocks  fixed  in  drifting  icebergs,  which  passed 
over  tiie  silent  waves  of  some  shoreless  primeval  sea.  The  Chin  is  13 10  ft. 
higher  than  the  Nose,  and  is  3,800  ft.  above  Stow,  and  4,348  ft.  above 
the  sea.  This  peak  offers  a  more  extensive  nortliern  view  than  that  from 
tha  Nose  (with  an  impressive  view  down  the  Notch),  and  is  easily  visited, 
although  parties  who  go  out  to  it  usually  stop  over  night  at  the  Summit 
House,  thereby  gaining  the  superb  effects  of  sunset  and  sunrise. 

The  *  *  view  from  tlr;  Nose  is  very  similar  to  that  from  the  Chin,  aii<l  is,  perhaps, 
the  noblest  (thoii<,'li  not  the  most  extensive)  in  New  I•'ll^land.  i)n  the  S.  are  seen 
Camera  Hum])  (lo  M.)  and  ivillin;,'ton  Teak  ((iO  M.),  with  a  ^reat  nuuil)er  of  name- 
less i)eaks  and  ridges  of  tin;  Cireen  Mts.  The  j;reat  Luke  Cliamplain  tills  the 
horizon  from  8.  W.  to  N.  W.,  l)einf?  visible  tiirough  the  {greater  ])art  of  its  extent, 
with  the  ancient  blue  Adirondacks  liftfng  their  clond-like  summits  beyond.  'J'lie 
apparently  Jevel  lowhunls  of  the  Chanijtlaiii  valley  are  spread  out  like  a  map 
below,  dotti'il  with  numerous  white  villages  (beyond  which  is  l^urlington),  and 
crossed  by  many  streams.  The  great  grazing  district  of  the  Lamoille  valley 
stretehes  away  to  the  X.  W.  and  glimi»ses  of  tlie  sjiarkling  rivers,  the  Lamoille 
and  the  Winooski,  are  canglit  through  the  forests  and  foot-liills  of  the  Green  Mis. 
Far  in  the  N.  is  lie  St.  Lawrence!  River,  with  its  valley  dotted  with  Norman 
villages,  and  on  the  N.  W.,  with  a  i)owerful  glass  and  on  a  clear  day,  it  is  said  lint 
visitf)rs  have  .seen  .Mount  Royal  and  the  shining  tin  roofs  of  Montreal.  E.  of  N., 
Jay  Peak  and  Owl's  Head  Mts.  are  seen,  the  hitter  risuig  from  Lake  Mern- 
phrema.jog,  while  still  fartlier  to  the  L.  are  Hor  and  Ainianancu,  the  mountains 
about  Willonghliy  Lake.  Farther  to  the  r.  are  the  Percy  I'eaks,  and  a  little  S.  of 
E.  the  Francouia  and  White  Mts.  are  seen  low-lying  on  the  horizon,  (JO  M. 
distant.  ,  ' 

0  M.  beyond  Waterbury,  on  the  raain  line,  is  Ridlei/s  Station  (Green 
Mt.  House)  whence  carriages  run  to  Camel's  Hump,  0  M.  S.  The  road 
has  been  built  3  M.  up  the  mountain,  and  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  is 
made  on  foot  or  horseback.  A  small  house  for  shelter  and  refreshment.s 
is  kept  open  all  summer,  1  M.  from  the  sum  nut.  TJje  mountain  is  4,083 
ft.  high,  and  from  its  isolated  position  commands  an  extensive  view,  whose 


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204    Route  20. 


BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 


general  features  are  much  like  tl  ose  of  he  prospect  from  Mt.  Mansliel.l. 
The  name  Camel  s  IIui.ip  is  derived  from  a  supposed  resemblance  of  the 
outline  of  the  mountain  to  that  of  the  back  of  a  camel. 

Near  Ridley's,  and  seen  from  the  track  (to  the  N.),  are  the  JioUnn  Falls, 
amid  some  wild  rock-sccncry  in  a  deep  ravine  nearly  4,000  ft.  below  llie 
l^eak  of  Mt.  Mansfield.  The  line  now  follows  the  picturcsfjue  valley  of 
the  Winoc^ski  to  Jiniesrille,  whence  stages  run  to  Hineslmrg,  Starksboio, 
and  the  rugged  towns  of  Huntington  (under  Camel's  Huni]^)  and  Under- 
hill  (under  Mt.  Mansfield).  Station,  Jlichmond  (Richmond  House),  a 
bright  village  in  the  widenings  of  the  Winooski  valley,  with  an  extensive 
trade  in  butter  and  cheese.  The  mountain-ravines  open  out  here  on  the 
Champlain  valley,  and  the  country  becomes  more  thickly  settled.  A 
bridge,  000  ft.  long,  over  the  Winooski,  is  now  passed,  and  the  train 
enters  the  farming  town  of  WilUston.  For  several  miles,  running  N.  W. 
from  this  station,  fine  views  are  afforded  from  the  train,  —  the  Green  Mts. 
with  their  two  loftiest  peaks  looming  up  })oldly  on  tlie  r.,  while  the  distant 
Adirondacks  are  seen  on  the  1.  Essex  Junction  is  soon  reached,  whence 
trains  rim  to  Burlington  (see  Route  26)  in  8  M.,  passing  the  remarkable 
gorges  on  the  Winooski  River. 

5  M.  N.  of  Essex  is  Colchester,  to  the  W.  of  which  is  a  tall-spired 
village  (Mallet's  Bay  Hotel),  and  still  farther  W.  is  Mallet's  Bay,  which  is 
nearly  land-locked,  has  numerous  islets,  and  affords  good  bass  and  pilco 
fishing.  Frequent  views  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the 
Green  Mts.  are  obtained  from  the  cars  as  they  i)ass  N.  to  Milton  (three 
iiu;s  in  the  town).  This  village  is  near  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Lamoille, 
7  M.  from  the  river's  mouth.  The  river  descends  here  150  ft.  in  800  ft., 
and  affords  a  water-power  for  the  Milton  lumber-mills.  The  train  crosses 
the  Lamoille  River  on  a  high  bridge  450  ft.  long,  and  utops  at  the  station, 
Georgia  arid  Fairfax.  Georgia  village  (Franklin  House),  is  3^  M.  from 
the  station,  and  Fairfax  (Fairfax  House)  is  4  M.  E.  cf  the  station,  to 
which  it  has  a  tri-daily  stage.  A  small  Baptist  Theological  School  is 
located  at  Fairfax.  '    . 

St.  Albans  (*  \Veldon  House,  first-class;  American  House;  Tremmit 
House)  is  a  pretty  village  of  about  G,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  an  ele- 
vated plain  3  M.  from  Lake  Champlain.  Maiti  Street  is  the  princij'al 
thoroughfare,  and  has  several  good  commercial  buildings.  There  is  a 
neat  park  of  4  acres  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  on  whose  sides  are  the 
hotels,  the  Fraidvlin  County  buildings,  the  High  School,  and  seveial 
churches,  the  best  of  which  is  a  Norman-towered  Episcopal  Church  Iniilt 
of  red  sandstone.  Back  of  this  is  the  large  Catholic  Church  and  the 
Convent  of  Notre  Dame.  The  offices  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R. 
occupy  the  spacious  and  in^.posing  building  at  the  station.  In  tliis 
vicinity  are  the  immense  repair  aaid  car-shops  of  the  Vermont  Centml. 


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BOSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 


Route  29.     205 


Clmrcli  Iniilt 


occii])}  iiig  over  half  a  mile  of  buildings,  aiul  employing  several  hiuulrtvl 
skillul  workuieii.  These  works  are  tlie  largest  of  the  kind  in  New 
llnghuid,  ami  have  turned  out  many  locomotives  and  cars.  The  village 
luis  3  banks,  2  weeklies  and  a  daily  newspaper  (besides  a  weekly 
Frencli  paper),  and  5  churches.  Tuesday  is  its  market  day,  when  the 
farmers  from  Franklin  Co.  congregate  in  the  streets,  and  great  quantities 
of  dairy  products  are  sold.  The  quotations  of  butter  and  cheese  at  St. 
Albans  atfrct  the  market  throughout  the  Eastcni  States,  and  vast  quanti- 
ties of  these  products  are  shipped  in  ice-cars  to  the  N.  Atlantic  cities 
(mostly  to  Boston).  Between  1850  and  lSt)5  St.  Albans  sent  away 
33,003,044  pounds  of  butter,  and  lt),G28,0S)7  pounds  of  cheese,  having  a 
value  of  nearly  .$12,000,000.  N.  of  St.  Albans  are  (piarries  of  calico- 
stone  and  variegated  marble,  while  a  good  sulphur-spring  (appertaining 
to  the  Weldon  House)  is  in  the  environs, 

"St.  Albans  is  a  place  in  the  midst  of  greater  variety  of  scenic  beauty 
than  any  other  that  I  remember  in  America."  (Beechkr.)  Bellevuc  Hill, 
2  M.  S.  W.  from  the  station,  and  Aldis  Hill,  1  M.  N.  E.  of  the  village, 
lire  easy  of  ascent,  and  command  lovely  views.  *  Bellevue  is  1,300  ft. 
al>ove  the  lake,  and  about  900  ft,  above  the  village.  It  overlooks  the  vil- 
lage and  the  rich  plains  of  Franklin  Co.,  strewn  with  villages,  while  a 
broad  expanse  of  Lake  Champlain  is  spread  out  in  the  W.,  the  view  ex- 
tending over  Grand  Isle  to  the  New  York  shore.  In  the  S.  W.  the 
Alirondacks  rise,  "not  in  chains  or  single  peaks,  bui,  in  vast  broods,  a 
promiscuous  multitude  of  forest-clothed  mountains.  In  the  N.  is  scooped 
out,  in  mighty  lines,  the  valbiy  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  and  in  clear  days,  tJie 
eye  may  spy  the  faint  glimmer  of  Montreal."  (H.  W  Beecheu.)  The 
Missisquoi  valley  is  near,  in  the  N.,  and  Jay  Peak  lies  to  the  E.,  from 
w!uch  the  great  line  of  the  Green  Mts.  stretches  away  to  the  S.,  and 
Mount  Mansfield  is  plainly  visible.  To  the  S.  is  the  fertile  Lamoille 
valley,  running  through  Fairfax  and  Milton.  Aldis  Hill  is  only  500  ft. 
liigh,  and  is  easily  ascended.  Its  view,  though  less  extensive  than  that 
.from  Bellevue,  is  of  rare  beauty.  ,,,,,, 

:{  M.  W.  of  the  village  is  St.  AVwns  Bay  (Lake  View  House),  a  small  shore 
liiimlet,  from  wliicli  steaniorR  run  across  the  Lake  to  Plnttsburg,  starting  early  in 
the  morning,  4  times  weekly.     (Fare,  §  1.00.) 

Stages  run  E.  to  Fairjhld  (7  M.)  and  Ualerafield  (10  M.). 

St.  Albans  was  the  scene  of  great  excitement  duriui,'  tl)e  Canadian  rebellion  in 
1S;57,  and  several  raiding  parties  (of  refugees)  crossed  tiie  border  from  tills  vicinity. 
la  October,  1804,  several  strangers  boarded  at  the  hoti'ls  for  a  few  days,  and 
learned  the  habits  of  tlie  iieople.  When  the  bells  rang  at  :?  o'clock,  on  the  lV)th 
of  Oct.,  these  men  entered  the  banks  in  parties,  and  rolibed  them  of  their  fund.>*, 
while  others  of  the  band  arrested  every  citizen  on  the  street.  The  robbers  were 
22  in  number,  dressed  in  plain  clothing  and  armed  with  revolvers,  and,  having 
setHired  what  money  they  could,  they  stole  a  number  of  horses  and  tied,  closely 
pursued  by  the  citizens.  During  the  tiring  which  took  i)la(.'e  in  the  streets,  one 
citizen  was  kilh  il  and  several  wounded.  The  plundering  party  (which  was  com- 
posed of  escaped  rclx'l  prisoners)  reached  Canada  with  .'ij  208,000  in  money,  !<  80,000 
of  whicli  was  returned  to  the  banks  by  the  British  govennnent.     In  June,  1S(KJ, 


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200     A'<'*/<t;  ^.'A 


BOSTON  TO   MONTKKAL. 


1,200  Fenians  from  the  cities  of  the  coast  niniohed  from  this  place  into  Canada, 
and  iiliindercd  a  villa^'o.  The  provisions  of  this  jiarty  sooii  {jave  out,  and  they 
returned  to  St.  Alhans,  when;  tiicy  were  disarmed  Ity  1,000  U.  S.  troops,  wiio 
were  encamped  on  the  village  Parir.  for  2  weeks.  ,        j, 

St.  Albans  to  Eichford. 

The  East  Division  of  the  Vermont  Centra'  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  to  Jiich- 
ford  in  1^  -  2  hours.  Near  .he  station  Sheldon  Springs  (about  10  M. 
out)  aie  several  mineral  springs.  The  famous  Missisqiwi  Sprinr/  {*  Mis- 
Risquoi  Hotel)  is  alkaline  in  character,  and  has  no  distinctive  taste,  but 
has  proved  very  efficacious  in  cutaneous  diseases.  Within  the  space  of 
an  acre,  near  the  palatial  hotel,  are  13  mineral  sjtrings,  of  varying  prop- 
erties, arising  through  -a  vein  of  fine  fuller's  earth.  One  of  these  springs 
is  cathartic,  and  is  used  in  cases  of  dysjjcpsia  and  liver  complaints,  in 
the  year  1868,  354,000  (piart  bottles  of  Missisriuoi  water  were  sent  away, 
and  in  4  months  of  the  same  year  40,000  bottles  were  sent  from  the  Ver- 
mont Spring.  Dunton's  Hill  is  a  favorite  resort,  2  M.  from  the  Missi.squni 
House,  the  Sheldon  Spring  is  1  M.  S,  \V.,  and  the  Central  Spring  (in 
Sheldon  village)  is  2  -  3  M.  to  the  E. 

Tlie  Vermont  Sprimj  waters  are  mostly  bottled  and  sent  away,  for  the 
cure  of  diseases  of  the  skin,  cancer,  &c.     It  is  aboiit  2  M.  from  the  Mis- 
sisquoi,  and  there  are  numerous  other  mineral  springs,  differing  hi  their 
properties,  about  the  village.      The  Continental,  Central,  and  Excelsior 
are  among  the  most  noted,  while  Sheldon  Spring,  near  the  Missisquoi 
Falls,  has  long  been  visited.     The  *  Congress  Hall  Hotel,  located  near 
the  latter  spring,  is  a  large  and  first-class  house.     The  water  flows  at  the 
rate  of  14,000  gallons  a  day,  and  contains  a  large  amount  of  carbonate  of 
soda  with  potash.     "  It  is  a  very  unusual  alkaline,  saline  water,  con- 
taining more  silicic  acid  in  solution  than  any  on  record.     The  presence  of 
so  much  crenic  acid  is  also  remarkable,  and,  with  the  iron  and  magnesia, 
adds  to  the  valuable  constituents."      (Du.  Hayks.)    The  hot  and  cold 
baths  (in  convenient  bath-houses)  work  wonderful  cures  in  cases  of  rlu-u- 
matism,  erysipelas  and  skin  diseases,  cancers  and  chroiuc  ailments.    From 
Dunton's  Hill  (1  M.  from  Congress  Hall)  a  vast  panoramic  view  of  tlie 
Green  Mts.  is  obtained,  while  the  silver  waters  of  Lake  Champlain,  in  the 
\V.,  are  overlooked  by  the  blue   A(l''onacks.      Considerable  tracts   of 
Lower  Canada  are  included  in  this  vit   r,  which  is  terminated  on  the  N. 
by  the  spires  of  Montreal.     The  Missisquoi  River  fulls  119  ft.  near  Shel- 
don Spring.      At  Sheldon   village  (Central   House),  2  ]\I.  E.,  there  are 
many  hotels  and  boarding-houses.     Here  is  the  Central  Spring,  wliich, 
besides  carbonates  of  lime,  magnesia,  iron,  soda,  and  potassa,  and  sulphate 
of  lime,  contains  the  valuable  element  of  phosphoric  acid.      It   cures 
cutaneous  and  pulmonary  affections,  dyspepsia,  rlieumatism,  &c. 

The  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  will  cross  the  Missisquoi  Valley 
R.  R.  at  Sheldon. 


I 


nosrox  to  Montreal. 


Route  2U.    207 


into  Canada, 
)ut,  and  they 
,  troops,  who 


E.  to  Rich- 
^hout  10  M. 
ring  (*  Mis- 
'e  taste,  but 
he  space  of 
vrying  prop- 
hesf  spriiif^s 
iplaints.  In 
}  sent  away, 
om  the  Ver- 
le  Missisquni 
l1  Spring  (in 

xway,  for  the 
oni  the  Mis- 
ring  hi  their 
md  Excelsior 
e  Missisquoi 
located  near 
flows  at  the 
carbonate  of 
water,  con- 
presence  of 
id  magnesia, 
lot  and  cold 
vses  of  rheu- 
lents.    From 
view  of  llie 
iplain,  in  the 
le  tracts   of 
I  on  tlie  N. 
near  Shel- 
E.,  there  are 
ring,  wluch, 
and  sulphate 
It   cures 
&c. 
;quoi  Valley 


Tlie  line  follows  the  ridi  valley  through  several  funning  and  dairy 
towns,  passing  the  stations,  hi.  Frdu/vlin,  Enoshurg  Falls,  Fn^shurg,  nud 
E.  Berkshire,  io  Bichford  (American  IJouse),  a  thinly  populated  town, 
on  whose  S.  E.  corner  Jay  Peak  rises  to  an  altitude  of  over  4,000  ft. 

A  railroad  is  to  be  bnilt  from  Richford  N.  W.  through  St.  Amiand.  Dunham, 
and  Notre  Dame  des  An.cies,  to  W.  Farnhani,  in  the  Province  of  Queber*,  and  on 
the  N.  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  U.  R. 


Soon  after  leaving  St.  Albans,  the  main  line  passes  Swunton  Junction, 
where  a  railroad  diverges  to  Rouse's  Point  and  Ogdensburg. 

This  line  passes  through  Swanton  (Central  House),  a  pretty  village  with  a 
Soldiers'  MonunK'ut  on  its  Green,  consisting  of  a  statue  (in  Vermont  maiblt')  ,  f 
the  (loddcss  of  Libei-ty  on  a  poilestal  of  gray  Isle  La  Mutte  marble.  Swantou 
wa:5  settled  by  the  Freneh  in  IT^'O,  but  they  were  crowded  out  within  a  half-ien- 
tury.  Much  marble,  black,  white,  and  red  variegated,  is  ([uarried  in  this  town. 
After  crossing  Missisquoi  Bay  on  a  trestle-bridge,  the  train  stops  at  Alburgli 
Hitriues  (*  Alhn I (jh  .Sj)ring!i  House),  whose  mineral  waters  are  much  used  lor 
cutaneous  complaints.  The  drives  on  the  lalce  sliore  are  very  jileasant,  and  fish- 
ing and  boating  are  favorite  summer  anuisements.  The  i>eniusula  of  AHuu'gii  was 
granted  by  the  King  of  France,  as  a  feudal  seigniory,  io  Councillor  FoiicaulL,  un- 
der whose  onlers  it  was  settled  in  17:51.  It  was  occupit'd  liy  loyalist  refugeijs  late 
in  the  Revolutionary  Era,  and  in  ISiST  was  one  of  the  Irontier  towns  from  which 
tiie  insurgents  in  the  "  Patriot  War"  made  their  raids  into  Canada. 

Passing  the  stations,  Alburgh  ami  W.  Alburgh,  the  line  crosses  Lake  Champlain 
at  its  N.  end  on  a  long  tn  stle-bridge.  Fort  Mdiitijomcvy  is  seen  on  the  r.,  com- 
manding the  Richelieu  River.  After  the  works  on  tliis  fort  had  gone  on  for  some 
time,  it  was  discovered  to  be  in  British  territory,  but  a  generous  change  of  boun- 
dary gave  the  land  to  the  United  States,  ami  the  work  was  completed.  On  the  1. 
hh  La  Mottv.  may  be  seen  far  down  the  lake. 

Rouse's  Point  (New  York)  is  now  reached.  From  this  point  the  Hue  runs 
W.  through  the  Chateaugay  Woods,  passing  Malone  and  Potsdam,  to  Ogdensburg, 
400  M.  from  Boston  and  141  M.  from  St.  Albans.  Another  railroad  runs  N.  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Richelieu  River,  to  St.  Jolui's  (2.3  M.).  The  gr.'at  Lake  Cham- 
plain  steamers  leave  Rouse's  Point  twice  daily  (in  summer)  lor  Whitehall. 

After  passing  Swanton  Junction  and  E.  Swanton,  the  train  on  the  main 
line  stopa  at  Highgate  Springs  (*  Franklin  House).  The  liotcl  is  on  one 
side  of  the  track,  and  the  s})ring-honse  on  the  other.  The  spring  is  alka- 
line, containing  chloride  of  sodium,  carbonate  of  soda,  and  sulphate  of 
soda.  E.  of  the  Springs  is  the  broad  and  beautiful  Missisquoi  Bay  (Missi 
Kisco— much  water-fowl),  Avhich  is  nearly  land-locked,  and  abounds  in 
fish.  The  Franklin  House  accommodates  IGO  guests,  at  $3.00  a  day. 
2-3  M.  S.  E.  is  a  considerable  village  at  Highgate  Falls,  on  the  Missis- 
quoi Paver.  Tlie  alkaline  Cliamplain  Spring  is  located  here  (Chanqilain 
House,  Green  Mt.  House,  both  fronting  on  the  village  park),  and  is  con- 
sidered a  specific  for  dyspepsia,  cutaneous  eruptions,  cancer,  and  con- 
.suniption.  Alburgh  Springs  on  the  W.  and  Missis(iuoi  Springs  on  the  S. 
E.,  are  within   easy  distance  of  Highgate.     Highgate  was  the  birthplace 


208     nimk  Jif. 


HUSTON   TU  MUNTUEAL. 


I  ■' 


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I)  ^ 


Ir  -■ 


1 1 


)  ',■ 


'■i 


{■'    K 


X 


' 


1i 


of  Jolin  G.  Saxo,  wliose  i»ot'in.s  of  hiuiior  uiid  itatlioM  are  widtly  known 
and  read. 

About  3  M.  l)oyon<l  Iliglij^atc,  tlio  train  leaves  tlie  United  States,  and 
enters  Mi.ssis(|uoi  f'otmty,  in  tlib  Anglo-Canadian  Province  of  Quebec. 
Stations,  St.  Armnnd,  Moore's,  and  Stniihridt/r,  on  the  jilains  of  tlie  Rich- 
elieu River.  Stanbridge  is  a  neat  village,  from  which  stages  run  to  E. 
Shmbridgo  (3  M.)  and  Bradford.  As  the  line  ])asscs  farther  out  on  tlic 
jilains,  the  great,  isolated  mountains  of  Itoin/rmon .  and  llchvil  are  seen  on 
the  r.  On  Behvil  the  liishop  of  Nancy  had  an  immense  cross  erected  in 
1843,  whicli  was  visible  for  many  leagues.  It  was  demolished  Ijy  a  storm 
in  1847.  Stations,  Dos  Jtiriercs,  St.  Alexandre,  beyond  which  the  train 
passes  the  junction  of  the  Stanstead,  Slielford,  and  Chanddy  Railroad, 
running  from  St.  Johns  E.  to  Waterloo  43  M.  Stages  from  Waterloo  to 
Lake  -d('m])lir('magog  in  20  M.  The  line  imw  crosses  the  Richelieu  River 
to  St.  Johns,  a  quaint,  old-fashioned,  Norman-French  village  near  the 
head  of  the  Cii-inibly  Rnpids.  '^I'hc  town  is  situated  on  a  level  plain,  and 
is  connected  with  the  suburb  of  St.  yl^//a;i«.sc  by  i.  fine  bridge  over  the 
Richelieu.  There  is  good  fishing  by  boat  near  St.  Johns,  and  the  few  visi- 
tors who  stop  at  this  (juiet  old  town  usually  ride  to  Chambly,  a  pleasant 
village  near  the  confhience  of  the  Rivhelieu  and  Montreal  Rivers.  It  is 
12  M.  N.  of  St.  Johns  by  tlie  river-ioad,  and  is  on  a  lake-like  ex})ansion 
of  the  river,  calleil  ('!lianil)ly  Basin.  The  Richelieu  Hows  toward  the  N, 
E.  almost  parallel  with  the  St.  Lawrence  which  it  joins  at  Lake  St.  Peter, 
70  M.  distant. 

Clianibly  Wiis  foitiliml  In'  the  Frencli  in  1711.  and  in  '[lilt  it  had  a  stntng  stono 
fort  built  l>y  tlic  liritisli,  witii  massive  towers  at  its  angles.  I^arge  suit;i;.e3  were 
stored  hero  ;  hut  the  eoiiiiiianile.'  was  so  careless  that  the  fort  was  easily  taken  by 
the  Aiiioricans  in  Octobej-,  177'>.  It  was  abandoned  on  the  advance  of  liiirgoyne, 
having  first  been  stripiJed  of  its  stores,  and  ha.«  since  served  (initil  the  English 
military  evacuation  of  Canada)  as  an  exercising-ground  for  the  Montreal  garrison. 
In  the  cryjtt  of  the  Catholic  ("huich  is  buried  I)e  Salaberry,  Seigneur  of  Chambly. 
who  eonnnandetl  tin;  Canadians  in  the  battle  of  Chateangay  (War  of  1S12),  when 
a  large  invading  force  of  Auicricans  was  resisted  with  such  valor  and  success  that 
Dfc  Salaberrv  ever  after  bore  the  title  of  "the  Canadian  Leonidas."  12  M.  noni 
Chambly  is  'iMn-il  Mf. 

Other  excursions  from  St.  Jo'..ns  are  to  Scotch  Mf.  (6  M.  over  a  good  road),  which 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Green  Mts.  and  the  border  Townships  ;  and  to  the 
Chambly  Rapidft  on  the  Richelieu. 

The  Manjuis  of  Montcalm  built  a  fort  at  St.  Johns,  which  was  .strengthened  by 
Gov.  Carletim.  Benedict  AriioM's  American  fleet  was  repulsed  in  an  attack  in 
1775,  but  tlie  fort  was  besieged  by  (ien.  Montgomery  in  Septenil)er  of  the  same 
year,  and,  after  six  weeks  of  blockades  and  caimonade,  it  surrendered,  with  (100 
British  regulars  and  4S  heavy  launon.  The  American  garrison  evacuated  the  post 
on  the  advance  of  Cien.  Burgoyne. 

At  St.  Johns  the  train  moves  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way (Montreal  and  Rouse's  Point  Division),  and  i^asses  through  the  fair 
and  fertile  i)lains  of  the  Parish  of  La  Prairie  to  St.  Lambert,  opposite 
Montreal.  The  St.  Lawrence  River  is  crossed  by  the  wonderful  *  Victoria 
Bridge,  and  the  train  stops  at  Montreal  (see  Route  54). 


f 


I 


WEIHS. 


Jioute  30.     209 


fly  known 

tates,  nnd 
f  Qufbcr. 
■  the  Rirli- 
run  to  E. 
ut  on  tilt' 
irc  seen  on 
erectt'd  in 
ty  a  storm 
the  train 
Railroad, 
atorloo  to 
lien  River 
!  near  the 
plain,  and 
i  over  the 
16  few  visi- 
a  pleasant 
el's.     It  is 
expansion 
ird  the  N. 
'  St.  Teter, 


•(iiig  stontj 
):.es  were 
iy  taken  by 

Burgoyne, 
1 


r 


e  Enylisu 
il  garrison. 

Chainlily. 
812),  when 
ucess  that 

I  M.  Ironi 

lad),  which 
iiul  to  tlie 

thenecl  by 
attack  in 
the  same 
with  COO 

Id  the  post 

link  Rail- 
the  fair 

[opposite 
rictoria 


30.  Boston  to  the  Franconia  Mts. 

By  the  Boston  ami  l.owdl  ;iiitl  Boston,  L'oncnnI,  aud  .Mt.uliv.il  Uailruadii. 
Parlor  cars  run  from  Bnston  without  chanp'  tit  I'lyniontli.  Hosloii  to  I'lyniouth 
(r_';j  il.)  in  6  hrs.  ;  to  the  Twin  Ml.  Hou.se  (-Jo.j  M.)in  .iboiit  s  lirs.  The  branch 
roid  whieli  runs  Imni  Win;,'  IJo.id  station  lo  BoLhlelieui  will  l»o  completed  to  the 
Twin  Mt.  House  by  July  1,  l.S7;{. 

The  train  leaves  the  Boston  and  Lowell  station  (I'l.  3)  at  8,  or  S.30  A. 
M.,  and  passes  to  Concord  by  Ronte  21),  through  Lowell,  Nashua,  and 
Manchester.  (Trains  leaving  the  Boston  and  Maine  station,  at  7.30,  or  8, 
make  a  connection  with  this  route  by  way  of  Manchester.) 

After  leaving  Concord,  the  line  crosses  the  Merriin;'.',;,  and  i)as.se.s  the 
statio'.is,  E.  Concord,  X.  Concord,  CunUrburi/  (with  a  large  Shaker  village 
4  M.  from  the  station),  Xnrthjicld,  and  Tiltoa  (Dexter  House).  Tilton 
wa.s  formerly  called  Sanborntoii  Bridge,  ami  is  the  seat  of  the  N.  IL 
Seminary  and  Female  College,  which  has  good  buildings  near  the  railroad. 

Stages  run  from  Tilton  to  Gilinaaton  Centre  and  to  A'cw  Hampton  (VVaukeneto 
House),  12  M.  X.,  the  seat  of  a  Free  Will  Baptist  Thcolo^'ical  School.  At-  the 
head  of  Little  Buy,  near  Tilton,  was  tht;  largest  Indian  fortress  in  New  Kngland, 
consisting  of  several  lines  of  intrent'hments  laced  with  stone,  and  evidently  once 
palisaded.    Some  renniants  of  these  works  remain. 

The  line  now  pa.sses  along  the  shores  of  Winnepe.saukee  River,  Little 
Bay,  and  Great  Bay.  Stations,  Union  Villayc  and  Laconia  (Willard 
Hotel),  whose  factories  tuni  out  yearly  1,500,000  yards  of  fancy  cloths, 
275,000  dozen  hose,  an<l  3-4tH)  railroad  cars.  From  this  point  an  inter- 
esting excursion  may  be  made  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Belknap  (  U  .M.  dis- 
tant), on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  From  this  commanding  peak  the  lake 
may  be  seen  throughout  nearly  its  entire  extent,  and  views  of  the  mts. 
beyond  and  of  the  pretty  village  of  Wolfboro  are  obtained.  Laconia  is 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Winnesijuan-  (Great  Bay),  a  jiicturesque  sheet  of 
water  on  the  1.  of  the  line.  Afti'r  leaving  L.acoida,  the  line  jia.sses  along 
Sanbornton  Bay  to  Art^c  VUlajc  (Lake  House),  which  lia.s  several  large 
lumber-mills.  A  small  steamer  runs  daily  (in  summer)  to  Alton  Bay. 
The  quiet  waters  of  Long  Bay  are  now  skirte<l,  on  the  r.  bank,  with  the 
peaks  of  Belknap  Mt.  beyond.  Station,  Weirs,  with  a  fine  view  out  over 
Lake  Winuepesaukce.  Steamers  leave  tliis  point  for  the  villages  on  the 
lake  (see  Route  32),  and  N.  Conway  may  l)e  reached  by  crossing  to  Wolf- 
boro, and  taking  the  cars  on  Route  31.  Near  Weirs,  on  the  N.  shore  of 
the  outlet,  is  the  Endicott  Rock,  which  is  about  20  ft.  around,  and  is 
carved  with  the  initials  of  the  chiefs  of  the  colonial  survey  of  1632,  and 
with  the  word.s,  "John  Endicut,  Gov."  The  train  passes  N.,  with  the 
lake  on  the  r.,  to  Meredith  {E\m  House).  Stages  run  daily  from  Mere- 
dith to  Sandwich,  and  a  railroad  route  has  been  surveyed,  anil  is  to  be 
constructed  to  Conway. 

The  train  now  passes  Waukawan  Lake,  on  the  r.,  which  is  4  M.  long 


: 

i!      I 


!     1 


ur 


;*,   .■ 


•!     ■■ 


I 


210    Route  so. 


PLYMOUTH. 


and  1-2  M.  broad.  Waukawati  is  a  name  given  to  this  lake  by  the 
Indians,  and  now  uscil  by  suninier  vihitors,  though  the  nistics  who 
live  in  the  vicinity  call  it  Measley  Pond.  Long  Pond  is  now  passed, 
and  the  train  stops  at  Ashland  (.S(|uan\  Lake  House),  a  .small  factory- 
village  near  the  confluence  of  the  Hcpiam  and  Peniigewa.sset  Rivers,  and  3 
M.  from  the  lovely  Squani  Lake  (see  Route  a'l).  This  is  in  the  ancient 
]']piscopal  town  of  llolderncss,  and  the  road  along  Scpumi  Lake  exhibits 
home  of  the  richest  scenery  in  the  country.  The  Peniigewasset  is  now 
crossed  near  Bridgewater  station,  and  its  valley  is  followed  to  Plymouth 
(*  Peinigewa.sset  House,  150  rooms,  a  lirst-class  summer  hotel,  where  the 
midday  trains  stop  30  minutes  for  j)assengers  to  dine  ;  Plymouth  House). 
Plymoulli,  the  shire-town  of  (irafton  County,  is  u  beautiful  village  in  the 
midst  of  attractive  scenery,  near  the  conlluence  of  the  Pemigew..sset  and 
Baker's  Rivers.  It  has  a  large  country  trade,  and  is  noted  for  its  manufac- 
ture of  line  buckskin  gloves.  Walker's  Hill  overlooks  the  village  and  valley, 
while  Mt.  Prospect  (4  M.  N.  E. ;  carriage-road  to  the  sumnut)  commands 
an  extensive  prospect.  On  the  S.  is  tlie  valley  of  the  Peniigewasset 
("  Place  of  crooked  pines  "),  with  its  broad,  rich  intervales,  while  nun»er- 
ous  ■well-known  peaks  extend  between  Alonadnock  in  the  S.  W.  and 
Moosilauke  in  the  N.  W.  The  N.  is  filled  with  the  lofty  summits  of  the 
Franconia  and  the  "White  Mts.,  prominent  among  which  is  Mt.  Lafayette. 
Osceola  and  White  Face  are  in  the  N.  E. ,  and  just  below  the  Stpiam 
Hange  in  the  E.  is  the  beautiful,  island-dotted*H(iuam  Lake.  To  the  S. 
E.  are  the  bright  waters  of  Winnepesaukee,  with  Mt.  Belknap  looking 
over  them.  Mt.  Prospect  is  2,UC3  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  possesses  several 
other  objects  of  interest,  — the  Miser's  Cave,  the  Avalanche,  and  the  Cold 
and  Boiling  St)rings. 

The  drive  around  Plymouth  Mt.  is  a  favorite  excursion,  and  the  view 
from  its  summit  is  pleasant,  embracing  many  of  tlic  features  of  the  view 
from  Mt.  Prospect,  with  the  addition  of  Newfound  Lake.  2  M.  N.  of 
Plymouth  are  the  romantic  Livervi(yre  Falls,  bearing  traces  of  volcanic 
agencies.  From  Plymouth  to  Squam  Lake  it  is  6  M. ;  to  Newfound  Lake, 
9  M. ;  to  Centre  Harbor,  12  M. 

Capt.  Baker,  o{  Newbury,  with  a  company  of  Ma.ss.  Rangei-s,  attacked  an  Indian 
village  near  the  eonllueuee  of  the  river  wliieli  now  bears  his  name  willi  the 
Peniigewasset  River.  After  killing  many  of  tlie  villagers,  the  Rangers  plundered 
the  place,  and  then  retreated,  being  vaii'ily  attacked  afterwards  oi\  the  plains  of 
Bridgewater.  Plymouth  was  settled  in  17GI.  Tlie  house  still  stands  here  (now  a 
carriage-shop  near  the  hotel)  in  which  Daniel  Webster  made  his  lirst  plea  before  a 
jury.  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  died  in  this  village  Slay  li),  18G4.  A  remarkable 
balloon  voyage  was  eonniiciieed  at  I'lymouth  in  Sejjtember,  187-,  by  an  aeronaut 
and  a  journalist,  who  aseeniled  into  mid-air,  passed  over  the  White  Mts.  at  the 
rate  of  50  M.  an  hour,  and  landed  at  tSayabec,  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  ijawrence,  having 
travelled  over  500  M.  in  13  hrs. 

The  finest  avenue  of  approach  to  the  Franconia  Mts.  is  by  stage  ft'om  Plymouth 
to  the  Profile  House  {1.)  M.  ;  fare  §4.00).  The  road  runs  up  the  Peniigewasset 
valley,  and  eonnnands  line  views  as  tlio  mts.  are  n?>prr);u:hed.  C'lrmptiii  and 
Thornton  lie  on  this  stage-road  (see  Route  :i4,  adjincul). 


[ 


MOOSILAI'KK   MT. 


Route  31).     211 


Indian 
/ilh  the 
biidered 
laiiis  of 

(now  a 

jtlore  a 
lurkable 

Tonaut 
at  the 

1  having 

(llKHlth 

jwasset 
va  and 


isl 


i 


After  leaving  Plyiiioutli,  the  ruilroail  follows  the  valloy  of  Baker's 
River  for  20  M.  Station,  Hinaur)/  (Stinsoii  House),  S.  of  Stinsonhi.It. 
and  Pond,  wldclj  were  named  in  memory  of  a  hunter  who  was  killed  here 
by  the  Indians.  \he  village  is  nearly  1  M.  from  the  .station.  Sawmills, 
tanneries,  and  eha  coal-works  abound  in  the  town.  St,,  ions,  W.  Hum- 
7jry  and  UV///»v»/7A  (I'nion  Hotel),  a  vilhi;,'e  on  fair  intervah-s,  and  sur- 
romided  by  hi;,di  hills.  Carr's  .Mt.  is  on  the  R,  and  Ciilia  -Mt.  on  the  W. 
Station,  Warren  (Moosilauke  House,  $  "J -2. 50  a  day,  .$  10- l').(M)a  week). 
Moosilaxike  Mt.  is  r»  M.  Irom  this  village  (D  M.  to  the  summit  by  a  goo<l 
earriage-roa<l),  and  on  its  top  is  the  Summit  House  (.*!4.0()  a  day). 

During  the  summer,  when  carriages  run  fre<|uently  IVorn  the  village 
hotel  to  the  Summit  House,  the  fare  for  each  pasM-ngcr  (iMcluding  tolls)  is 
§  4.50.  From  its  isolated  i>osilion  and  great  height  (4,000  ft.),  tiiis  jieak 
commands  a  grand  and  uniciue  *  view.  In  the  S.  are  the  hill  towns  of 
Grafton  County,  with  numerous  prominent  and  well-known  peaks  rising 
over  them.  Beyond  Owl's  Head,  on  the  W.,  considerable  ]iortions  of  the 
Green  Mts.  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day.  In  the  N.  W.  is  part  of  the 
Connecticut  valley,  and  ono  or  two  Canadian  peaks  are  seen  in  the 
remote  N.,  while  nearer  at  hand  are  the  Pcmigewasset  Mts.  A  noble 
panorama  of  nits,  e.xtends  from  Sugar  Loaf  (W.  of  N.)  to  the  white  peak 
of  Chocorua  (S.  of  E.),  embracing  the  chief  summits  of  the  White  and 
Franconia  llanges.  On  the  S.  E.  is  the  shining  surface  of  Lake  Winne- 
jicsaukee,  and  in  the  same  direction  some  purlion  of  the  State  of  Maine  i.s 
visible. 

From  Peaked  Hill,  near  the  village  hotel,  a  good  view  of  MoosiK  ike  is 
obtained.  Carr's  Mt.,  Webster's  Slide,  and  Owl's  Head  are  also  in  War- 
ren, while  on  Hurricane  Brook  arc  numerous  j)icturesque  cascades,  known 
as  Fairy,  Rocky,  Oak,  Wolf  Head,  Watenome,  and  Hurricane  P'alla. 
Diana's  Wash-Bowl  is  a  setjuestered  basin  on  the  same  creek. 

Station,  E.  Ilairrhill,  beyond  which  the  line  traveises  the  glen  of  the 
Oliverian  Brook,  with  Webster's  Slide  Mt.  on  the  1.  and  the  precipitous  sides 
of  Owl's  Head  on  the  r.  Station,  Ilarerhill  (Exchange  Housed  a  j^retty 
village  on  a  hill  near  the  track,  with  the  Grafton  County  buildings.  Just 
across  the  river  is  the  village  of  Newbury  (see  Route  24),  which  may  be 
seen  from  the  1.  as  tlie  train  skirts  the  rich  intervalo,  and  passes  to  N. 
Haverhill,  a  small  village  near  the  Ox  Bow  Bend  of  the  river.  Stations, 
Woodsville,  and  Wells  River  (Coosuck  House),  where  the  train  crosses 
the  Connecticdt,  and  makes  a  connection  with  the  Cjim.  and  Psissumpsic 
Railroad  (Route  24).  The  river  is  rcerossed  on  tlie  Aumn  Ijridge,  ami  the 
line  now  runs  by  Woodsville  up  the  valley  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River. 
Stations,  Bath,  a  small  village  on  the  Connecticut,  E.  of  which  the  Wild 
Ammonoosuc  joins  the  Ammonoosuc  ;  Lisbon  (small  inn) ;  .V.  Lisbon, 
and  Littleton  (Thayer's   Hotel;  Union    House;   and  several  boarding- 


II 


■1 

I"-', 


LM2     Ituiifr  .iO. 


LAXCASTKR. 


J! 


I*'  t 


■p 


houses,  tlie  best  v.''  which  is  tlie  *  Oak  liill  House,  on  tlie  higli  liill  ovlt 
the  villaj^'o,  n<ioninio«hitinK  70  guosts,  nt  !?10-ir*.00  u  wouk).  Littleton 
was  chartered  in  17t)4,  under  the*  name  of  Ciiiswick,  and  1ms  15  M.  of 
ti-rritory  on  the  Connceticiit  liiver.  It  iius  2,400  inhabitants,  2  banks,  3 
chun;li<s,  scver;il  niamifaetorics,  and  a  wekly  i)aj)er  eallcl  "  Tiic  White 
Mountain  Ile|>nl)lic."  From  the  hills  ii.  the  vicinity,  tine  panoramic 
views  of  the  Whiter  and  Franeonia  Mts.  ni;  y  be  obtained.  Stages  leave 
hcniidnily  for  the  Prohle  House  (see  lioute  34),  11  M.  distant,     r:.        ,< 

Stations,  Wing  Road,  when!  trains  ronneet  on  a  braneh  railroad  to 
llcthlehem  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House  (12  M.  distant) ;  Whili^tiild  (White- 
liild  House),  a  hnnber-workiiif^  town  ;  and  lialton  (Sumner  House),  a 
pleasant  village  near  the  ("onneetieut.  Stations,  S.  Lancaster,  and  Lan- 
caster (*  Lancaster  House,  120- K'.0  guests,  at  $U -3.50  aday  ;  American 
House),  a  beautiful  village  on  a  broad  plain  near  the  river.  It  has  about 
2,200  iidiabitants,  2  weekly  pai)ers,  and  5  cliurclus.  This  is  a  favorite 
summer-resoi't,  "  and  in  the  coml)ined  charm,  lor  walks  or  rides,  of 
meadow  and  river,  —  the  churni,  not  of  wildness,  but  of  cheerful  brigiit- 
ness  and  beneficence,  —  Lancaster  is  unrivalled."  (Stauu  Kino.)  »S7c6- 
bius'  Hill,  near  the  village,  commands  an  extensive  view  ;  while  the  drive 
around  Mt.  Prasyjcc/ (2-3  hrs.)  is  much  esteemed.  The  rapids  on  the 
Connecticut  are  reached  by  a  line  road  over  the  intervales  (t)  M.).  The 
riverward  road.<  are  level  ami  smooth,  revealing  hue  distant  views,  the 
best  of  which  is  obtained  from  the  Lunenburg  Hills,  beyond  the  river  in 
Vermont.  To  the  E.  and  N.  E.  of  Lancaster  are  the  dark  and  unexplored 
Pilot  Mts.,  wliosc  main  peak  is  sometimes  ascended  by  a  path  leading 
from  the  handet  of  Lost  Nation,  yielding  a  broad  view  over  the  upper 
Coos  country  and  the  mountain-walls  to  the  S.  and  S.  E.  Israel's  Rivej- 
imites  with  the  Coimecticut  near  the  village,  after  tlowing  down  a  pictur- 
escjuo  valley  from  its  source  near  Mt.  Madison.  Sir  Chailes  Dilke  says 
that  "  tl  worhi  can  show  few  scenes  more  winning  than  Israel's  liiver 
vallej'-,  in  die  White  Mts.  of  N.  H.,  or  N.  Conway,  in  the  S.  slopes  of  the 
same  chain."  The  stream  is  named  for  an  old  hunter  who  was  one  of  the 
pioneers  of  the  C!oos  country,  but  the  melodious  Indian  name  is  preferable, 
—  Singrawaclc,  "the  foanung  stream  of  the  white  rock."  **  Grand  combi- 
nations of  the  river  anil  its  meadows  with  the  Franeonia  Range  and  the  vast 
White  Mt.  wall  are  to  be  had  in  short  drives  beyond  the  river,  upon  the 
Lunenburg  Hills."  Stages  run  from  Lancaster  twice  daily  (7  M.)  to  tlie 
Waumbek  Iloiise,  on  Jefferson  Hill,  famed  for  its  panoramic  view  of  the 
White,  Franeonia,  and  Green  Mts.     (see  Roupj  i)3). 

Beyond  Lancaster  the  railroad  follows  the  Connecticut  River  for  10  M,, 
and  connects  with  tlie  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (Route  4o)  at  Northmaber- 
land.       —        -^     '•  •  !■     '■      ■■.''■•  ■     ■  "'■■/■    ■  -  n<. 


*     M 


> 


M., 
iber- 


ROCHESTER. 


Jioule  31.     2 1 3 


N 


31.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains. 

nv  Mie  F.astorn  Uiilroiul  to  N.  Cnnwny  (ir?7  M.)  in  5  hm..  faro.  S6.00  ;  to  tbo 
rr.iwfor.|  Hou.si^  (l()2  M.)  in  I'J  hr«..  fniv.  $s.:>(»  ;  to  tlic  fJij-n  Hoiiso  (l')7  M.)  in 
11  Ins  ,  faiv  87.00.  This  i;:  lln-  quicki'st  nnd  nearest  route  to  tlm  Wiiito  Mts.,  ninl 
mns  two  l*tilln)an  cximiss  trains  daily  in  Huninior. 

Tlie  train  loavi's  the  Eastern  station  in  IJoston  (on  Causeway,  at  tin-  foot 
of  Frientl  St. ),  and  pa.ssea  out  ovi'V  the  Cliarlrs  Kiver.  Uoston  to  Vnnway 
Junction,  see  lloiite  \M  (the  inincipiil  stations  are  Chelsea,  Lynn,  Sahnn, 
Ipswich,  Newbitryport,  ]lanii)ton,  and  I'ortsniouth).  Heyond  Conway 
.Function  the  tiain  piisses  the  stations,  S.  Jii'nrick,  Sa/inon  Falls,  und 
Oreat  Falls.  At  the  hitter  viUagu  are  extensive  cotton-factories,  employ- 
ing 3,000  hands,  and  eonsnniiiig  7,700  lialcs  of  cotton  yearly.  Station, 
Rochester  (hndt/r.'.s  JIuH  ,•  Munsiim  I/ause),  a  village  on  Norway  rinins, 
with  several  factories  near  the  falls  on  the  Cucheco  lliver.  The  town  has 
3  banks,  7  churches,  and  over  4,(ilM>  inhaliitants.  Over  2,0O0,OO(»  yards 
of  flannel  are  made  here  yt-arly,  with  lOOjOOO  j)airs  of  shoes,  100,000  pairs 
of  blankets,  and  2,000,000  bricks.  Ilochester  was  settled  in  1728,  anil  its 
people  kept  constant  vigil  for  nearly  half  a  century,  being  often  attacked 
by  the  Indians.  John  1'.  Hale,  a  i)rominent  leader  in  the  antislavery 
movement,  and  U.  S.  Senator  for  IG  years,  was  born  liere  in  IbOG. 

The  Pnrthind  nvd  nnrhc.ifi'r  Hailrortif  runs  from  this  village  across  the  centre  of 
York  Coimty  to  Portland  (')2  M.  ;  faro,  .'«!  1.. '),')).  Stations,  /:'.  l{(iclicster,  K.  Leba- 
non, and  Siiriiiijnile,  a  vi!lai,'(!  in  Sanfonl,  wliich  was  ltiMi;j;lit  of  tlic  ISaganioro 
Flucllcii  in  1U()1.  Stages  run  from  Hi)rin;.,'vale  to  yiiaplei,;!;!!,  and  to  Nowfitld, 
where  the  Jit.  Ka^Io  Tripoli  is  made,  and  lar^^o  carriaf^'ts-factories  nre  located. 
Htalion,  Altretl  {Cot  I  ml  Ilousr ;  County  lldUi^r),  a  pheasant  villaj,'e  on  a  level 
jilain,  contaiiiiii;^'  tlie  Yuri;  County  Imildinj^'s,  and  namcci  in  honor  oC  King  Alfred 
of  England.  The  line  next  crosses  the  towns  of  W.iterborou!.;!!  and  Uollis,  and 
the  Saco  River.  Station,  llnxton  (IJerry's  Hotel),  tlie  old  Narra;,'ansett,  No.  I. 
which  was  nameil  in  enniplinient  to  Paul  (Jotlin,  its  pastor  for  40  years,  whoso 
ancestors  came  from  iJuxtnn  in  Kngland.  This  town  was  one  of  the  7  granted  by 
Ala.ss.  to  the  victorious  siildiers  of  Kin;^  I'liilip's  War,  and  ',»  more  were  granted 
to  th»  veterans  of  tii(!  Canada  War  of  IG'.''>.  Tlie  soldiers  were  tlius  eomj>en.sated 
for  their  labors,  and  at  the  same  time  the  distres.sed  and  war-swept  settlements 
on  the  Maine  eoast  were  shielded  by  a  double  tier  of  towns  inlial)itcd  by  hardy 
and  fearless  veterans.  Bn.xton  has  4  vil'iges,  witli  extensive  lumber-mills.  Stages 
rim  to  Cornish  and  Limington.  Station,  Gnrhi ni  {VAomcwt  House),  the  7th  town 
granted  to  the  veterans  of  1075,  and  named  for  Capt.  (lorham,  whose  company 
lost  30  killed  and  41  woundeilat  the  Narragansett  Fort  Fight.  Station,  Sacnrnpp'', 
a  manufacturing  village  which  for  '>0  years  sent  vast  amounts  of  lumber  to  Port- 
land and  Havana.  The  Cumberland  Mills  turn  out  .Sl.oOo.OnQ  worth  of  paper 
annually.  After  running  across  the  jKipulous  town  of  Westbrook,  the  train  ap- 
proaches Bramhall  Hill,  and  pus.-ies  into  the  terminal  station  at  Portland. 

After  leaving  Rochester,  the  White  Mt,  train  passes  the  stations,  Haye ;' 
Crossing  and  S.  Milton,  and  stops  at  Milton  (FrankMn  House),  a  quiet 
farming  town  ntar  the  Salmon  Falls  lliver.  Mt.  TenerifTe  is  seen  on  the 
1.  Station,  Union  (Union  House),  beyond  which  Copple  Crown  Mt.  is 
seen  in  the  W. 


21  i    Route  31. 


CONWAY. 


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FroTii  Wolfboro  Junction  a  branch  niilinail  runs  (in  12  M.)  to  Wolrtmro,  on 
l«'ike  V.iiiiio])esaiik('c  (st  t;  Koutc  ;iJ),  in  tlio  latter  part  of  its  courso  skirting 
Smith's  I'oml,  and  stopping  near  the  wluirl"  of  the  Lake  ateaniera. 

Stations,  Wakejlchl,  E.  Wnkcjxcld,  and  X.  Wakejidd,  to  the  E.  of 
which  is  Lake  Newichawaimock  (East  Pond),  ".vliich  is  3  M.  long  and  1 
M.  wide.  Stations.  (Is.'n'pce  and  Ossipce  Ventre  (two  inn.s),  the  shire- 
town  of  Carroll  County.  A  ,trlini])se  of  Ossijiee  Lake  is  gained  on  the  r., 
boyond  this  station,  with  (Jreen  Mt.  on  its  farther  shore.  Running  N. 
withOssijire  Mt.  on  the  1.,  the  train  reaches  W,  Ossipee  (*  Banks'  Hotel), 
from  which  fine  e.xer;sions  may  he  made  to  Ossi])ee  Lake,  Sandwich 
Notcli,  and  Mt.  Chocorua  (see  page  220).  Madison  Planis  are  next 
traversed,  with  the  broad  sheet  of  Six  Mile  Pond  glittering  among  the 
forests  on  tlie  r.  and  Legion  Mt.  far  beyond.  On  the  1.  is  the  weird  peak 
of  Chocorua,  to  which  Starr  King  has  a})plied  the  adjectives,  "gallant, 
haughty,  rugged,  torn,  proud-peaked,  desolate,  proud  and  lonely,  tired." 

Stations,  Madison  and  Conway  (* Conway  House;  Pequawket  House; 
Grove  House).  This  village  is  situated  on  rich  lovel  land,  and  has  many 
charming  rural  scenes  along  the  winding  Saco.  From  its  air  of  tran- 
quillity and  pastoral  seclusion,  this  hamlet  of  Chatauqac  is  preferred  to 
N.  Conway  by  those  who  seek  (piiet  and  rest,  and  arc  regardless  of  bril- 
liant society.  Excursions  are  made  from  this  point  to  *  Choconia  Lake, 
8-9  M.  distant,  under  the  mt.  of  the  same  name;  to  Conway  Centre  and 
Fryeburg  (see  Route  39),  in  the  N.  E. ;  to  Chatham,  by  the  long,  strag- 
gling village  of  (!onway  Street,  between  the  Green  Hills  and  the  Maine 
border;  to  Champney's  Falls,  ascending  the  Swift  River  valley  to  the  W. ; 
and  to  the  Cathedral,  Echo  Lake,  and  Diana's  Bath.  The  last-named 
places  are  as  near  to  Chatau(pxe  as  to  N.  Conway,  and  the  fording  of  the 
river  is  avoided.  There  are  fine  views  of  the  White  Mts.  from  this  vil- 
lage, with  the  Mote  Mts.  looming  in  the  N,  W.  Beyond  Conway  the 
train  runs  N.  for  5  M.,  much  of  the  way  being  over  embankments  and 
trestles  on  the  Saco  intervales.  The  Mote  Mts.  are  approached  on  the  1., 
and  Kiarsarge  ai)pears  on  the  r.  Soon  after  crossing  the  Saco,  awhito 
village  is  seen  on  the  hillside,  the  tower  of  the  Kiarsarge  House  is  ap- 
proached on  tlie  r.,  and  the  train  stops  at  the  new  and  elegant  station 
building  at  N.  Conway  (see  Route  33). 


THE  SWITZERLAND  OF  AMERICA. 

Route  32.  —  Lakk  Winnepesaukki;  and  the  Sandwich  Mountains. 
33. — The  White  Mountains  and  North  Conway. 
84.  -  •  The    Franconia    Mountains    and   the    Pemigewasskt 

Valley. 
35.  —  The  Percy  Peaks,  Dixville,  and  Lake  Umbagoo. 


LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE. 


Route  S2.     215 


,  Ktrasc- 


is  ap- 
station 


AINS. 


? 


32  Lake  Winnepesankee  and  the  Sandwich  ^Tcuntains. 

From  Unstnn  to  tlip  I,;iko  :  (a)  By  Hoiit^'s  20  and  30,  tlirou;,'h  Lowoll  nnd  Con- 
ronl  to  Weir.;,  Miifiicc  tlic  stoaiucr  "  Lady  of  tlu-  Lake"  runs  to  Centre  Harbor 
and  Woin)oro.     Boston  to  Weirs,  Ji)'>  M. 

(b)  By  Ron*^('  158,  tlirongh  LawrtMice  and  Dover  to  Alton  Bay,  wlienee  the 
steamer  "  Jit.  Washington  "  runs  to  Wolfboro,  Centre  Ilarlior,  and  Meredith. 
Boston  to  Alton   Bay,  iu;  M. 

(e)  By  Routes  'M  and  ;57,  thron;,di  Salem  and  Portsmouth  to  Wolflwro,  where 
both  the  steamers  touch,  and  trnm  wiiicli  all  the  laktvvilla;,'es  may  be  visited.  Bon- 
ton  to  Wolfboro,  10(i  M.  (in  l.J  hrs.  by  the  Pullman  express  train  in  the  morning). 

Lake  Winneiiesaukee  i.s  in  the  counties  of  Carroll  and  Belkna]i,  in  ihn 
State  of  N.  IL,  and  is  25  M.  long  by  1-7  M.  ■svitlo  ••■'  'aining  Gi)  square 
miles.     It  is  472  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  its  waters    i  talline  purity  re- 

flect the  shadows  of  several  bold  mountains,  ai,.i  sunound  nearly  300 
islands,  great  and  small.  8  towns  rest  around  it,  having  (in  1870)  an 
aggregate  population  of  14,000  on  about  200  sipuire  milt  s  of  territory; 
and  but  few  and  small  are  the  villages  along  the  cui!  nisly  indented  sliorcs. 
The  waters  of  the  lake  are  discharge<l  by  the  Winnepesankee  Kiver, 
which  unites  with  the  Pemigewa.sset  to  form  the  Merriniac,  and  passes 
into  the  ocean  at  Newburyport.  Winnepesankee  is  an  ancient  Indiiiu 
word  which  is  popularly  su])posed  to  mean  "  The  Sndlc  of  the  Great 
Spirit,"  although  some  interpret  it  as  "  Pleasant  Water  in  a  High  Place." 

"There  maybe  lakes  in  Tyrol  and  Switzerland  which,  in  partienlar  respects, 
eveoiid  the  charms  of  any  in  the  Western  world.  But  in  that  wedding  of  the 
land  with  the  water,  in  which  one  is  perpetually  approaehin;,'  and  retreating  from 
the  other,  and  each  transforms  itself  into  a  thousand  figures  for  an  endles.s  dance, 
or  grace  and  beauty,  till  a  countless  nndtitude  of  shapes  are  arranged  into  perfec;t 
case  and  freedom,  of  ahnost  musical  motion,  nothing  can  lie  held  to  surpass,  if  to 
matcli,  our  Winnepesankee."    (BARTor..) 

"J  have  been  something  fif  a  traveller  in  on  •  own  country,  -  lough  far  les.s 
than  I  cmild  wish, — and  in  Kurojie  have  seen  all  that  is  most  attractive,  from 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland  to  the  (Jolden  Horn  of  Constantinople,  from  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Hartz  Mountaiii-s  t(»  tin;  Fountain  of  \'au(duse  ;  but  my  eye  hiis  yet  t;> 
rest  'Ml  a  lovelier  scene  tlian  that  which  smiles  around  you  us  you  sail  fn-m  Weir^ 
Landing  to  Centre  Harbor."    (KowAun  F']vkuk.t.) 

"Luokhig  up  to  the  broken  sides  of  the  Ossipee  Mts.  that  are  rooted  in  tin; 
lake,  over  wliich  huge  shadows  loiter  ;  or  back  to  the  twin  li(dknap  hills,  whii  Ii 
u]i]ieal  to  softer  sensibilities  with  their  venlnred  synnnetry  ;  or  larfiuT  down, 
ujton  the  charming  succession  of  mounds  that  hem  the  shores  near  Wnls'boro  ;  or 
northward,  where  distant  Chocorua  lifts  his  bleached  head,  so  tenderly  touched 
now  with  gray  and  gold,  to  defy  the  hottest  sunlight,  as  he  has  defied  for  age.-? 
the  lightning  and  tlie  storm,  —  does  it  not  seem  as  though  the  jiassage  of  the 
P.salnis  is  fulfilled  bel'ore  nur  eyes,  -  '  Out  of  the  perfection  of  beauty  Cod  hath 
sliined'?"    (Thomas  Staku  Ki.vo). 

'i'he  poetry  of  Percival  and  of  Whittier  has  often  been  inspired  by  Wiunepe 
saukee.     (.See  Whitlier's  poems,  "The  Lake-side,"  "bummer  by  the  Lake,"  and 
others.) 

The  steamer  runs  E.  from  Woirs,  with  Meredith  Bay  opening  to  the  N. 
Mount  lielknap  is  seen  to  the  S.,  and  Ossipee  Mt.  looms  \\\i  ncross  the 
lake  in  front.  After  passing  GovernorN  Ldanl  on  the  S.,  the  boat  turns 
to  the  N.  through  a  strait  between  Bear  Island  (3  M.  from  Weirs)  and  the 


•  S'S 


.-^n 


216    Route  ,32. 


CENTRE  HARBOR. 


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mainland.  Just  after  passing  this  island,  and  when  within  3  M.  nf 
Centre  Harbor,  the  finest  *  view  on  the  lake  is  oVjtained.  The  whole  line 
of  the  Sandwich  Mts.  is  seen  in  the  N.,  between  Ossipee  on  the  r.  and 
Red  Hill  on  the  1.,  with  Whiteface  looming  foremost,  and  "the  haughty 
Chocorua  "  leagues  away  to  the  N.  E. 

Centre  Harbor  is  10  M.  from  Weirs.  It  has  tlie*Senter  House,  8^.00  a 
day;  tlio  Moiilton  House,  8  10 -14.00  a  weetc  ;  and  nuiiieroiis  pleasant  boarding- 
houses,  aiiiouj;  whieli  are  tho.se  of  R.  L.  Coe,  A.  M.  Graves,  the  Wentworths,  and 
Rev.  Aliiion  Renson.  'I'lie  priees  at  these  houses  range  Ironi  S7.00  to  !?  14.00  a 
week.  Kelsea's  i.s  on  tin-  far-viewing  Centre  Harbor  Hill,  over  a  mile  from  the 
village,  while  under  Red  Hill  and  near  tiquani  Laiie  is  Sturtevant's  '({veeommodat- 
ing  about  :U)). 

Steamers  (time-table  of  1S7"2)  leave  Centre  Harbor  4  times  daily.  The  "  Ladv 
of  tlic  Lake  "  l<!aves  at  7.:}0  A.  iM.,  and  at  1  V.  M.     Far.'  to  Wolfbo'ro,  75  c. 

Stagem  leave  daily  (in  suunuer)  for  Moultonboro,  Sandwich,  Tanuvorth,  Madi- 
son, and  W.  Ossipee. 

Centre  Harbor  is  a  small  handet  at  the  liead  of  one  of  the  3  northern 
bays  of  the  lake.  It  was  settled  by  Col.  Senter  in  1757,  and  was  named 
in  his  honor,  but  the  improvement  of  the  town  has  been  slow,  and  in 
1870  it  had  only  44G  inhabitants.  There  are  pleasant  di'ves  from  this 
village  to  Moultonboro,  to  Sandwich,  and  *  "ai'ound  the  ring,"  the  latter 
being  by  a  series  of  roads  4  M.  long,  passing  by  Red  Hill  and  witljin  siglit 
of  Squam  Lake,  and  returning  to  the  village.  Centre  Harbor  Jlill,  1  ]\I. 
from  the  hotels,  affords  a  fine  lake  prospect,  recommended  for  its  sunset 
views.  But  the  main  attraction  of  the  i»lace  is  the  *  ascent  of  Red  Hill 
(2,000  ft.  high).  By  the  highway  it  is  4  M.  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  from ' 
which  a  bridle-path  nearly  2  M.  long  reaches  the  summit.  A  road  2  M. 
shorter  is  available  to  the  pedestrian,  bypassing  out  on  the  Sandwich 
road,  taking  the  first  farm-lane  to  the  r.  beyond  the  cemetery  and  cross- 
roads, and  crossing  straight  to  Red  Hill  by  means  of  quiet,  rural  field- 
roads.  T)u!  mountain-path  soon  turns  to  the  r.  from  the  highway  (which 
is  followed  to  tlie  1.  after  it  is  gained).  The  hill  is  a.scended  to  the  first 
cottage,  around  whose  upper  corner  the  ]>ath  bears  sharply  to  tlie  1.  The 
reddish  sienite  ledges  of  the  summit  are  gained  by  a  long  climb  tlirough 
the  forest,  and  here  is  seen  the  luxuriant  nva  tirso',  whose  flan)e-red 
autumnal  tints  probably  gave  name  to  the  mountain.  The  *  *  view  from 
the  summit  vies  in  beauty  with  that  from  Mount  Holyoke,  though  of  far 
different  character  and  devoid  of  historic  charni.  Lake  Winnepesaukee  is 
outstretched  in  the  S.  with  leagues  of  l)right  waters  and  hundreds  of 
islets,  while  the  twin  summits  of  Mt.  Belknap  are  seen  over  Centre 
Harbor,  abont  15  M.  away.  In  the  S.  W.  is  Mt.  Kearsarge,  full  30  ^l. 
distant,  while  it  is  claimed  that  Monadnock  (70  M.  S.  \V. )  may  be  seen  in  a 
clear  day.  In  the  W.  is  the  lovely  Squam  Lake,  winding  like  Winder- 
mere, among  the  hills,  with  numerous  i.slands  and  white,  sandy  beaches, 
while  beyond  are  the  Squam  Mts.  and  "Sit.  Prospect,  near  Plymouth. 

"The  Mt.  Washington  r.mge  is  not  visible,  being  b.-rrcd  from  sight  by  the  dark 


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mainia: 
Centre 
of  the^ 
Red  Hi 
Chocon 

Cent 

day  ;  tJM 

llOUSPS,  I 

Rov.  Air 
wcclc.  I 
yill.-i^'e.  1 
in.t,'  aliou 
Stean 

of  tlic  \a 

Stage 

HOIl,  Jllld 

Centn 

bays  of  1 

in  his  li 

1870  it  1 

village  t( 

being  by 

of  Sqnan 

from  the 

views.     ] 

(2,000  ft. 

which  a  1 

shorter  is 

road,  tak; 

roads,  am 

roads.     T 

is  followei 

cottage,  a 

reddish  sii 

the  forest 

autumnal 

the  sunimj 

different  o! 

outstretch' 

islets,  whi 

Harbor,  al 

distant,  wl 

clear  day. 

mere,  amo] 

while  beyo 

"  The  Mt. 


•a'  .    .   :' 


•  ;       <  '- 


) ". 


i-ty  I 


CENTRE   IIAllliOR. 


lioiUf  JJ.     2 1  7 


Sandwich  Range,  which  in  the  afternoon,  untouched  by  the  light,  wears  a  s.ivage 
frown  that  contrasts  most  effectively  with  the  placid  bc.itity  of  tlie  lake  hdnw. 
Here  is  the  place  to  Htiidy  its  borders,  toailinire  the  tleet  (»f  islands  tliat  ride  at  an- 
choron  its  bosom,  -  from  little  shallops  tn  ^'rand  three-deckers,  —  and  to  enjoy  the 
exf^uisite  lines  by  which  its  bays  are  infolded,  in  wliicli  its  coves  retreat,  and  with 
'vhich  its  low  caites  cut  tlie  azure  water,  and  hany  over  it  an  emerald  friuije." 
^Starr  Kino.) 

,  "  For  to  the  nonth 

Thv  slninl)orin>r  wiitors  fl'iiitcd.  one  lonp  «heet 
s  Of  hurni.slicil  ^'iiid,  —  Ix'twifn  lliv  nciirer  shorci 

9  SofHv  cmlirrx't'd.  im<l  iiK'ltiiifr  ilistiintly 

*  Into  a  yollow  liii/c,  t'ml>i>'<i)iiH'il  iuw 

'Mid  s)'iiidii\V3"  liil's      ul  iiiist\  iiKiinitniiis,  nil 

Covcri'il  witli  Hliowcry  liKlit.'uii  with  a  veil 

Of'uiry  gauze. "  —  rtucivAt. 

In  the  N.  E.  the  weird  peak  of  Chocorua  is  seen,  and  nearer  at  hand  in  the  E. 
Is  the  heavy,  dark  mass  of  Ossipee.  The  central  peak  of  the  Handwioli  Ilange  is 
White  Face,  while  Black  IVak  holds  tlie  left,  and  the  right  extends  from  Passa- 
conaway  to  Chocorua.  Tbe  white  villai^e  in  the  jdain  below  is  S.indwieh,  while 
the  Bear  Camp  and  Red  Hill  Pouds  are  seen  in  its  vieinity.  "  Whoever  misses 
the  view  from  Red  Hill  loses  the  most  fasciii'.ting  and  tlioroughly  enj(jyable  view, 
from  a  moderate  mountain-height,  that  can  be  gained  trom  any  eminence  thatliea 
near  the  tourist's  path."     The  afternoon  is  the  best  time  for  the  excursion. 

*  Squam  Lake  is  3-4  M.  from  feiitre  Harbor,  un»l  should  be  visited 
for  the  sake  of  its  .seipu'stered  loveliness,  its  romantic.  isK.ts,  and  its  white 
strand.     The  waters  of  .S(iuam  are  of  rare  i)urity,  and  abound  in  llsh. 

Plymouth  i.s  12  M.  N.  W.  of  Centre  IIarl>or,  and  is  approached  by  a 
smooth  but  hilly  road,  passing  through  the  romantically  beautiful  district 
formerly  inhabite<l  by  the  Squamscott  Indians.  This  road  skirts  the 
shores  of  Squam  and  Little  Squam  Lakes,  and  at  al)out  5  M.  from  Centre 
Harbor,  has  a  superb*  view  of  Chocorua,  15  ^L  away,  over  the  broadest 
part  of  Squam  Lake.  The  road  passes  across  the  broad,  rich  intervales 
of  Holderne-js  and  Plymoutli,  with  the  Sciuaui  Mts.  and  Mt.  Prospect  on 
the  r. 

On  leaving  Centre  Harbor  for  Wolf  bora,  Vai  steamer  keep.s  a  S.  E. 
course,  with  Ossipee  Mt.  on  the  E.  over  the  low  shores  of  Moidtonboro 
Neck.  A  great  archipelago  of  islands  is  j)a.sscd, -~- islands  which  shall 
here  be  nameless,  they  being  worse  than  nameless  in  the  poverty  of  tln-ir 
homely  Saxon  titles.  About  midway  of  the  lake  "the  unmistakable 
majesty  of  Washington  is  revealed.  There  he  rises,  40  M.  av/ay,  tower- 
ing from  a  plateau  built  for  his  throne,  dim  green  in  the  distance,  except 
the  dome  that  is  crowned  with  winter,  and  tlie  strange  ligurcs  that  are 
scrawled  around  his  waist  in  snow."  Fredrika  Breiuer  speaks  of  "the 
Olympian  majesty  of  Mt.  Washington  "'  from  this  point.  "  Farther  on, 
the  summit  of  Chocorua  is  seen  moving  swiftly  over  lower  ranges,  and 
soon  the  whole  mountain  sweeps  into  view,  startling  you  with  its  ghost- 
like pallor  and  haggard  orest."  On  Long  Island,  nearly  half-way  down 
the  lake,  is  a  small  hotel,  while  the  Island  Hotel  on  Diamond  Island  is 
W.  of  tlie  course,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  excuision  parties.  Tlri 
mountains  in  the  N.  change  their  relative  positions  with  kalci  lo  icop' ; 
10 


'■mr 


\t  i 


218    n»ut<'32. 


VVOLFBORO. 


I    ; 


I      \ 


i\ 


■ 


il 
i| 

I  T 

I    ■;! 


r;ii)i(lit.y,  and  the  imposiiij,'  peaks  of  Mt,  Belknaj)  (whonce  is  obtained  tlio 
finest  lake-view)  loom  up  aliead.  After  jiassiiig  these  peaks  tlie  steamer 
rounds  into  Wolfl)oro  Hay,  witli  Topple  Crown  Mt.  on  the  r.  20  M.  fron\ 
Centre  Ilavhor  is  the  villaj,'e  of  Wolf  boro. 

Hotels.  *  Pavilion,  tlie  best  hotel  on  tlio  Iftke  ;  BcUevue  House,  S8-12.0;*  a 
week  ;  L.ike  House.  There  arc  also  many  jileasant  and  retired  hoarding-houses 
in  and  iHnr  tlie  villaj^e. 

Steniners  have  tV)r  Alton  Bay,  Centre  Harbor,  and  Weirs,  two  or  three  timc.i 
daily. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Tvftnnhnro,  a  stock-raising  \o\vn  7  M.  N.  W.,  and  to  Movl- 
tcmboro,  over  a  pleasant  road  on  t!ie  E.  shore  of  the  lake. 

Wolflioro  was  settled  in  1770,  and  was  tlie  site  of  the  fine  mansion  of 
Gov.  Sir  Jolm  Wentworth.  It  i.s  now  a  jilisasant  vil]af,'e  in  a  thriving; 
town  of  abo\it  2,000  inhabitants,  with  3  banks  and  3  churches.  Its  situ- 
ation on  two  long  hills  near  the  lake  is  very  beautiful,  and  fine  views  ore. 
enjoyed  of  the  Belknap  Mts.  a.:ross  the  water.  Good  lake-views  may  be 
had  from  the  hills  about  the  village,  and  also  from  Tumble-Down  Dick,  a 
high  eminenee  near  the  large  Snuth's  Pond,  E.  of  \yolfl)()ro.  But  tho 
best  excursion  is  to  Crqqde  C'rnvm  Mt.^  about  5  M.  S.  E.,  by  a  road  passing 
to  S.  Wolf  boro.  The  carriage-road  runs  nearly  to  the  summit  (fare,  S  2.00 
from  the  hotel  for  each  person  of  a  i)arty).  Copple  Crown  is  2,100  ft. 
high,  and  furnishes  from  its  summit  a  view  of  neaily  the  whole  length  of 
the  lake,  with  Mt.  Belknaj)  near  at  hand  in  the  N.  W.,  and  the  heavy 
range  of  Sandwich  looming  above  the  head  of  the  lake.  Chocorua  and 
Ossipee  are  close  together,  a  little  W.  of  N.,  and  on  a  clear  day  Mt. 
Washington  may  be  seen  beyond  all,  while  the  ocean  is  visible  in  the 
opposite  direction.  30  lakes  and  ponds  are  seen  from  Copple  Crown,  of 
which  Ossipee,  in  the  N.,  is  one  of  the  finest. 

The  Wolfboro  Branch  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  runs  to  the  N.  Conway  main  lino 
in  12  M.  Two  express  trains  leave  for  Boston  daily,  making  the  di.staneo  (lOG 
W.)  in  4-5  hre. 

After  leaving  Wolfboro  the  steamer  follows  a  southerly  course  to  Fort 
Point,  where  it  tunis  by  Little  Mark  Island  into  Alton  Bay.  This  is  a 
narrow  estuary,  4-0  M.  long,  and  bordered  by  high  wooded  hills  of 
Trosach-like  Ijoldness.  The  steamer  follows  the  sinuosities  of  this  curi- 
ous inlet,  and  sometimes  seems  to  be  walled  in,  as  neither  way  of  ingress 
nor  egress  is  seen.  Mt.  Major  is  passed  on  the  W.  shore,  and  after  many 
turns  and  bendings  the  last  bluff  is  passed,  and  the  hotel  and  station  at 
the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake  are  reached.  Here  is  situated  the  Bay  Vieio 
House  (.$10-14.00  a  week),  a  tpiiet  summer-hotel  with  pleasant  drives 
and  good  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 

Alton  Bay  was  formerly  called  Merry-Meeting  Bay,  since  it  was  a  famous  gath- 
ering-place for  the  Indians.  Several  Indian  raids  on  the  N.  H.  coast  passed  down 
this  bay,  and  in  1722  the  province  built  a  military  road  to  it,  and  commenced  I'or- 
tiiications.  Tlie  cost  was  found  to  be  too  heavy  lor  the  little  colony,  and  the 
position  was  given  up.  Atkinson's  regiment,  which  was  covering  the  frontiers 
during  the  French  war,  built  a  fort  and  encamped  here  through  the  winter  of 
1746-7. 


CENTRE  HARBOR  TO   CONWAY.     Ilnvt,:  32.     210 


0  Fort 
liis  is  a 
liills  of 
lis  curi- 

ingress 
[•  many 
It  ion  at 
Y<j  View 
drives 


IS  gath- 
kl  down 
:/ed  lor- 
iiul  the 
roil  tiers 
Inter  of 


1 


The  hotel  is  about  30  M.  from  Centre  Harbor.  Mt.  Major  and  Pros- 
pect Hill  are  near  the  hotel,  and  command  beautiful  lake-vicwf,  while  the 
ocean  may  be  seen  (in  clear  weather)  from  the  top  of  Prospect.  Sharp'.* 
Hill  also  ^ives  a  neat  lake-view. 

Among  the  longer  excursions  is  that  to  Lougee  Pond,  near  a  cltir,ter  of 
lakelets  from  which  flows  the  Suncook  River.  Gilmantou  Iron  Works 
village  is  a  little  way  S.  of  these  ponds,  which  are  about  0  M.  from  Al- 
ton Ray.  6-8  M.  to  the  eastward  lies  Merrymeetiiig  L  dec,  an  irregular, 
picturesque,  and  sequestered  ))ond  10  .M.  in  circumferencn,  N.  of  whirli 
is  Copple-Crown  Mt.  The  favorite  excursion  from  .Mton  Pay  is  to  Mt. 
Belknap,  10  M.  N.  W.  on  the  shores  of,  and  overlooking,  Lake  Winn;^- 
pesaukee.  Seats  in  the  carriage  which  runs  to  the  mt.  whenever  a  parly 
is  formed  cost  §1.50  each,  and  the  noble  view  of  lakes  and  mts.  morn 
than  repays  for  the  time  ami  trouble  of  the  journey. 

Three  trains  daily  (iluring  the  season)  leave  Alton  Bay  for  Boston. 
Distance,  96  M. ;  time  about  \  hrs.  (see  Route  3S.) 

Centre  Harbor  to  Conway. 

A  railroad  liiu^  lias  been  surveyed  from  Meredith  through  Centre  Har- 
bor to  W.  Ossipee.  Daily  stages  now  pass  over  the  road  between  thesa 
points.  After  leaving  the  Harbor,  lied  Hill  is  approached  and  passed, 
and  a  village  of  Moultonboro  is  reached  in  5  M.  from  thi;  Scnter  House. 
Moultonboro  has  a  small  inn  and  two  or  three  boarding-liouses,  an  I 
abotmds  in  pleasant  scenery  which  is  rarely  visited.  Red  Hill  is  here, 
and  Ossipee  Mt.,  also  the  long  and  sequestered  Moultonboro  Bay  with  its 
great  archipelago  of  picturesque  islets,  and  with  plenty  of  fish  in  its 
waters. 

The  Ossipee  Indians  had  their  home  near  this  hay,  and  many  relies  of  them 
have  l)e<'n  found,  chief  among  wliieh  is  a  great  numuniental  nimnid  at  the  nioutli 
of  Melvin  River. 


"  Where  the  Great  I.nko'ssiinny  smiles 
Dimple  round  its  hundred  islJ's, 
And  the  mountuin's  f^ranitc  ledge 
Cleaves  the  water  like  a  wedge, 
Rineed  about  witli  smootli,  pray  stoncft, 
Rest  the  giant's  mighty  bones. 

Close  beside,  in  shnde  and  gleam, 
Ln\i3h»  and  ripples  Melvin  streiim, 
Melvin  .viiter,  iiioinifsiin-liorn. 
All  fair  flowers  its  hanks  adorn  ; 
All  the  woodlands  voices  meet. 
Mingling  with  its  murmurs  sweet. 


Over  lowlands  forrst-crrown 
Over  waters  isIand--trown, 
Over  silver-snnded  beacli, 
I>eaf'-loeked  liay  ami  misty  rencli, 
Melvin  stream  and  burial-heap. 
Watch  and  ward  the  mountains  keep. 

T^  ho  that  Titin  cromlecli  fills  ? 

Forest-kaiser,  lord  o'  the  hills  ? 
Kniglit  whi)  on  the  Idrelien  tree 
Carved  his  stivage  licraMry  ? 
Priest  ()  the  pine  wood  temples  dim, 
IVophet,  sii;,'e,  or  wizard  f-'rim  'i  " 


See  Whittier's  poem,  "  The  (Irave  by  the  J.ake." 

On  the  S.  side  of  r)ssi|i(M'  Mt.  is  a  mincr.il  sj)riu_',  about  1  M.  from  wliii-h  is  a 
noble  fountniii,  Ki  ft.  amund,  wliose  waters  gush  forth  witli  gn-at  font;  lunl 
copiousness.  Followiii,'  the  stream  which  is  liorn  here,  a  line  waler-lUU,  70  fu 
deep,  is  foinid  in  the  forest,  on  tlic  1.  of  wliieh  is  a  cavern. 

Tho  stage-road,  after  some  pleasant  views  of  S<pinm  Lake,  enter  ^  Ih'! 
pretty  village  of  Sandwich  (/'ed  Hill  House  ;  boarding-houses  of  B^'eih', 


220     llouic  .L\ 


SANDWICH. 


w. 


I*      1 

■! 


f     ! 


Wigijin,  and  others),  wliich  is  in  a  narrow  valley  nearly  surrounded  by 
mountains.  The  scenery  is  noble,  embracing  Ossipce  on  the  S.  E.,  lied 
Hill,  Die  Hqunin  Mts.  on  the  W.,  and  the  dark  and  storm-worn  Samlwlch 
Ranpe  on  the  N.  Squam  Lake  is  on  the  S.  W.  border  of  the  town,  and  a 
charming  road  leads  from  Iho  village  to  rhjniitullt,  jiassing  for  sevtral 
miles  along  the  N.  an<l  W.  shores  of  the  lake,  with  the  Htjuam  Mts.  on 
the  r.  Another  road  (somewhat  arduous)  leads  across  a  high  mountain- 
pass  to  Tlidrntdi),  in  the  I'emigcwassct  Valley,  Avhile  a  bridle-path  leads 
through  Oreeli'v's  (Jap  to  Widrrvitle.  Beyond  8an<hvirh  the  stage  passes 
near  Bearcam}»  Pond,  and  follows  the  licarcami)  lliver  down  through 
Sandwich  Notch  to  the  lowlands  of  Tamwovth  and  Ossipee  towns. 
W'hitticr's  poem,  "Among  tlie  Hills,"  hai.  Ita  scene  laid  in  this  vicinity  where 


"  Throtitrh  Sandwich  notch  the  west-wind  sung 
(IfKid  morrow  to  the  cotter  : 
And  onro  npiiin  dioconm's  Imrn 
Of  shadow  pierced  tlie  water. 


Ah<i\  e  his  lirond  lake  Odsipoe 
Once  more  tlie  Riin«l\iiie  wcarlnif, 

Stoopf(l.  trucinff  oil  thiit  Nilver  iliield 
His  grim  arniuriul  bearing." 


And  many  arc  the  weary  ones  who  stjU  come  here 

"  To  drink  thf  wine  of  moiintnin  air 
BeKide  the  Uearcainp  Water." 

Whitefacc  (4,100  ft.  high)  is  the  most  imposing  of  the  Sandwich  Mts., 
and  is  sometimes  ascended  from  Sandwiuli,  although  the  excursion  is 
arduous  and  fatiguing.  The  view  is  said  to  he  magnificent,  embracing 
Winnepesaukee  on  the  S.  with  the  loftier  peaks  of  the  White  Mts.  on  the 
N.  On  the  '.  E.  is  Passaconaway,  a  noble  peak,  4,200  ft.  high,  which 
was  named  alter  the  great  sagamore  of  Peniiacook,  the  most  ])ow('rful 
Indian  prince  in  northern  New  I'jigland,  early  in  the  17lh  ccTitury.  lie 
governed  a  large  confederacy  of  tribes  from  his  seat  at  Pennacook  (Con- 
cord), and  although  he  strove  to  annihilate  the  English  by  necromantic 
arts,  he  never  put  his  warriors  in  anus  against  them  (see  page  222). 

Chocorna  and  Ossipee. 

The  road  through  Sandwi<;h  Notch  passes  out  by  Banks'  Hotels  near 
W.  Ossipee  station,  on  the  Eastern  R.  R.  (Route  31).  This  is  a  pleasant 
old  country  hotel,  with  good  accommodations  at  a  moderate  price,  and 
stands  in  a  line  position  either  for  viewing  or  visiting  the  surrounding 
scenery.  Banks'  is  18  M.  from  Centre  Harbor,  by  way  of  Sandwich. 
Pleasant  excursions  are  made  along  Bear  River  and  into  the  Sandwich 
Notch.  Ossipee  Mt.  is  close  to  the  hotel,  and  the  highest  peak  is  but  2-3 
M.  distant.  A  grand  view  of  Lake  Winnepesaukee  is  obtained  from  this 
point,  while  Chocorna  looms  up  in  the  N.  and  Ossipee  Lake  is  in  the 
S.  W. 

Ossipee  Lake  is  about  4  M.  S.  E.  of  the  hotel.  The  road  follows  down 
the  Bear  Camp  valley  to  the  vicinity  of  the  lake.  In  the  field  near  Daniel 
Smith's  farm-house  (1.  of  the  road)  is  an  Indian  mound,  nearly  50  ft.  in 
diameter,  from  which  several  skeletons  and  other  relics  have  been  taken. 


^ 


> 


near 
la.sant 
|,  and 

iding 

kvicli. 

wich 

I2-3 

this 

the 

lown 

miel 

It.  ill 

lkeii< 


J 


MOUNT  (•iio(\);:rA. 


n„lltr  .it.        221 


\ 


In  the  same  field  and  nearer  ;liu  lake  art-  tlie  roiiuiins  of  LoviwiU's  tort, 
built  i'l  the  spriii}?  of  1725,  uiid  uliaiidoiit-d  after  the  h;ittl»'  ut  Peqiiawket 
(Fryebiir,').  Just  beyond  tliis  point  are  tlio  shore.s  of  Ossipee  Lake,  a 
scfpu'stcrt.  1  sheet  of  water  embracing  about  10  square  nules,  with  Greea 
Mt.  rising  bdl'lly  on  the  further  sliorc. 

*  Mt.  Chocorua  is  be,-.i  visited  from  this  point.  It  is  8  M.  to  the  foot 
of  the  mt.  ami  little  more  than  half-way  the  l»eautiful  Chocorua  Lake 
(Aa/ifi  Hniifie,  finely  situated)  i-s  passed.  From  this  i)oint  the  summit '^  of 
the  mountain  are  seen,  of  which  "■  one  is  a  rocky,  desol.ite,  craggy -peaked 
substance,  cruii<;hlng  in  shape  not  unlike  a  monstrous  w.drus  (tliough  the 
summit  suggests  more  the  1.  ..:  turned  head  ancV  Ix-ak  of  an  eagle  on  the 
w:itcli  against  some  danger) ;  the  other  is  the  wraith  of  the  proud  and 
lonely  shape  above."  The  ascent  requires  5  M.  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  and  is  very  ar  luous,  —  no  path  having  yet  been  made. 

"  IIow  rich  unci  Honorous  that  word  Chocorua  is  !  Does  not  its  rhythm  suggest 
tlie  wildncs.-i  and  loneliness  of  the  j^reat  liills?  To  our  e;irs  it  always  lirinj,'s  with 
it  the  si,L,di  of  tlit!  winds  thioii^^li  nK'nntaiii-iiines.  It  is  investeil  witli  traditional 
iMid  jieetic  interest.  In  funn  it  is  massive  and  synnuetrieal.  The  forests  of  its 
lower  sloi)us  are  (  lowned  with  rock  tiiat  is  seulptured  into  a  peak  with  lines  I  ill 
ol"  liaiiglity  eiier.;y,  in  whose  gorges  hu;,'e  shadows  are  entrapped,  ami  wliose  ditrs 
blaze  with  morning' K'dd.  On  one  side  of  its  .ja;;j^ed  i)eak  a  charming  lowlinil 
]iri)si)cet  stretehes  li  and  S.  of  the  Kandwi-  h  llan.ue,  indented  by  tiie  emerald 
sliores  of  Wiunepesaukee,  ^\hiell  lies  in  (pit'eidy  beauty  ujmmi  tlie  soft,  far-strefeh- 
in^  landscapes.  I'ass  around  a  Imu'e  rock  to  tiie  other  side  of  the  steep  iiyramid, 
and  yon  have  turned  to  another  eliai>ter  in  the  hook  of  nature.  Notliinj,'  l)ut 
mountains  runniu;,' in  long  jiarallels,  or  Itendini,',  ridge  behind  riilge,  an;  visible, 
hen;  brilliant  in  sunli^jlit,  tlnre  gloomy  with  shadow,  and  all  related  to  the  tower- 
ing mass  of  the  imperial  Washington There  is  no  sunniiit  from  which  th. 

]ireeipices  are  so  sheer,  and  sweeji  down  with  such  evcdoidal  (!urves.  It  i.s  so 
related  to  the  i»lains  on  one  side  and  the  mountain-gorges  on  the  other,  tint  no 
grander  wat,eh-tower,  e.\eei)t  Mt.  Washington,  can  be  sealed  to  study  and  enjoy 
clouil  scenery."     (ST.\nu  KiN(;.) 

Chocorua,  the  blameless  prophet-chief  of  the  Sokokis  Indians,  was  pursued  to  this 
lofty  peak  l)y  a  M'hite  hunter,  who  was  determined  to  kill  him  for  the  saUo  of  tho 
s<'ali)-nioney  (the  colonies  gave  large  bounties  for  Imliin  scalps).  The  chief 
ideaded  lor  (|uarter.  speaking  of  his  quiet  life  in  which  he  had  never  luirmed 
the  colonists  ;  but  when  his  pursuer  refusetl  to  he.ir,  iin<l  dn  w  near  to  put  him  to 
death,  the  noble  Chocorua  e.ist  one  long,  lingering  look  over  the  fair  lands  of  hi.s 
hunted  peoide,  and  lifting  up  his  arms  invoked  a  solenm  and  terrible  <ur.se  upon 
the  country  in  which  the  English  were  swarming  He  then  leapeil  Imldlyover 
the  tremendous  pi'ecipice,  and  was  dashed  in  pieei-s  on  the  roeks  below.  Malig- 
nant and  fatal  diseases  ann^ng  the  cattle,  and  other  fell  signs  long  troubled  tho 
towns  about  the  mountain,  while  ,-trange  legends  arose,  and  the  baleful  elfeuts 
were  lor  Uiaay  years  attributed  to  the  merited  curse  of  Chocorua. 

33.  The  White  Mountains  and  North  Conway. 

New  York  to  the  White  .\fts.  (a.)  ByR<Jute  2t,  through  New  Haven,  Springfield, 
and  Wells  River,  to  Littleton  (whence  stau^es  run  to  the  Prolile  House,  341  M. 
from  N.  Y.),  and  tlie  Twin  Mt.  House  (a;W  M.  by  R.  R.  from  N.  Y.).  Stages  Irom 
the  Twin  Mt.  House  to  the  Crawford  House  (9  M.) 

(h.)  By  steamer  to  New  London,  theme  by  Route  12  to  Andierst,  Brattleboro, 
and  Wells  River,  —  thence  to  the  Mts.  as  in  (n). 

(c.)  By  New  London,  Noi-wich,  Worcester,  and  Nashua  (Route  13),  to  Concord, 
and  thence  by  Route  30.     Or  by  the  preceding  way  as  far  as  Weirs,  whence  Lake 


\i  \ 


t 


222    J{nitf»-.ll     THK  WniTK   MOrXTAINS    ANT)   N.   CONWAY. 

WiimeiK'saiikcc  (Route  92)  in  rrnsseil  to  WolflMim'.  nml  Iloutf  31  is  followed  to 
N.  Conway.  Many  tnuristn  ]>n-ft'i'  to  take  the  iiiKlit  train  or  l>oat  to  Uostoii,  ami 
make  tiicir  way  tliciiic  to  iht;  Wliilc  Mt.-i.  l)y  a  iiioniinn  train. 

limton  In  the  U'hiti  Mt^.  (il.)  Hy  roriti- .'il.  11ii<iii;,'li  Lynn.  S;il«-rn,  Nt-wlitiryport, 
ftn<l  I'ortsinoutli,  to  N.  Conway.  Hy  this  roiite  tlie  <iiMtan<i'  liom  Hoston  to  N. 
Conway  is  |:;7  M.  ;  totlie  (  rawlonl  lloii.sc,  Hi'J  .M.  ;  to  the  (ilrn  lloii.-,f,  1.0"  .M. 

(( .)  Hy  HomIi's  •_'!•  and  Itn.  flirou;,'li  l.owcll,  Nasliua,  Mandic.stcf,  ami  Coiuonl, 
to  Wt'irs.  riyinoiitti,  and  tlif  I'win  Mt.  llousf.  Or  l)y  crossing,'  hakf  NViiine- 
jifsankrc  from  Writs  to  Woifboro,  n-ucli  N.  Conway  l»y  Uoute  Ul  (or  by  the  staye- 
loMtc  troni  <  iiilrt'  Marltor). 

(/)  Hy  Konfc  ;il  to  \\  olfl'iMd,  tlnMicf  iroHsin;,'  LnUv  WinncpcHaukrc  to  WtMr^, 
and  lollowinK  Hontc  ;i<)  to  I'lynmulli,  Lilth'toii,  and  the  Francunia  Mta.,  or  to  tlio 
Twin  .Mt.and  Crawtoid  llou.se. 

i;/.)  Hy  Uoiite  'M  to  Altci  Hay,  an<l  thfiicc  liy  stcamtT  to  Wolflioro  and  I{"iit« 
HI  to  N.  Conway  ;  or  to  Centre  Harbor,  and  lloiitc  ;12  {ad  Jinciit);  or  to  Weirs,  and 
tiif'ticc  by  Itoiitc  :to,     ,  in  (.^ 

I'luthniil  itini  till'  East  ti>  ■kn  n'hitr  Mis.  (//.)  Hy  Route  39  to  N.  ConwayfOO  M.), 
and  tiiiiici'  liy  sta;^e  to  tlic  t'lawlord  ami  (din  llonscs. 

(/.)  Hy  Koi'itf  40,  fo  tin;  village  of  tiorham  (!•)  M.):and  thcnoe  by  stage  to  the 
(jlcti  llonsi!  and  Crawford  House. 

Moitlriiil  mill  Qiiihic  (n  tlir  White  Mta.  (j.)  By  Route  40  (Grand  Trunk  Railway 
to  Corhani,  'J()(J  M.  from  .Montreal,  and  2-'(J  .M.  from  Qiieliec. 

Albuiiji  imil  Sanittiiia  to  the  U'liitv  Ml^.  (/,-.)  Hy  Routes  ^3  anrl  28  to  Rutland, 
thenco  by  Route  20  to  Hellows  Falls,  and  tlieiiee  by  White  River  Jum  lion  and 
Weils  I{i\ir  to  Litlletoii  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House. 

redetttriaiilsni  has  never  olitained  niiKh  favor  in  AnuTiea,  but  when  the 
l)resent  pust  liclluiti  era  of  lU'odigality  and  lueteuee  has  passed  away,  we  may  liope 
to  see  these  mountain  jieaks  ancl  ^orj^es  enliveui<l  by  jiarties  of  siinimer  ramblers 
who  will  i^^aiti  healtli  and  stn  ;.;,dli  from  insjiirin;,'  walks  in  tlie  jmre,  sweet  air. 
Tliegeidry  of  Old  Kn^laml,  witli  tlieir  ladies,  ari'  fond  of  passinj^'  thus  1hrouj,di  tlio 
Swiss  Alps  or  tlu'  Scottish  Hi^'hlands,  and  wiien  the  people  here  shall  adojit  this 
mode  of  sunnner  travel,  the  physical  cidture  of  New  England  will  reach  a  higher 
standard.  Many  adinirai)le  jpedestrian  routes  may  be  made  throu^jh  the  White 
Mts.,  but  the  tourist  should  havejileidy  of  time,  and  be  well  ami  lightly  eipiipped 
(sec  introduction,  IV.)    A  good  lield-glass  will  be  found  of  essential  service. 


t 


i^ 


I  ! 


i 

I.i 

;:mi 


The  White  Mts.  wero  called  Agioeliook  ("Mts.  of  the  Snowy  Forehead  and 
Home  of  the  Great  Spirit")  by  some  of  the  Indian  tribes,  and  Kan  Ran  Vu^carty 
("the  continued  likeness  of  a  gull")  by  others.  The  Algoniiuins  called  them 
SVaumbek  (White  Rock)  or  Wainnbeket-Methna,  and  the  natives  had  the  utmost 
reverence  for  these  mts.,  believing  them  to  be  the  home  and  throne  of  the  Great 
Spirit.  Hut  rarely  did  the  Hulians  ascend  the  higher  peaks,  since  it  was  reported 
aiaong  the  tribes  that  no  intruder  upon  these  sacred  heights  was  ever  known  to 
leturn  to  his  jieople.  There  was  a  legend  thalthe  (ireat  Spirit  once  bore  a  blame- 
less chief  and  his  wife  in  a  mighty  whirlwind  to  the  summit  of  Agioeliook,  while 
tlie  wor!<l  l»elow  was  overspread  by  a  flood  which  destroyed  all  the  peoi>le.  A 
wilder  and  more  recent  tradition  is  to  the  elleet  that  the  great  Passaconaway,  the 
wizard-king  of  the  wide-spread  I'eimacook  eonfetleration  (who  ruled  from  altout 
1(J20  to  lUUO).  was  wont  to  commune  with  celestial  messengers  on  the  sumnnt  of 
Agiocho(tk,  whence  lie  was  linally  borne  to  heaven  in  a  flaming  chariot.  Some 
authorities  claim  that  a  ]iarty  of  Knglishmen  visited  tliese  nds.  in  KJiJl  -2,  buttlio 
latest  historians  credit  their  discovery  to  Darby  Field,  who  came  up  from  the 
coast  in  1G42.  The  Indian  villagers  at  l'e(inawket(Fryeburg)  earnestly  endeavored 
to  dissuade  him  from  the  ascent,  telling  him  that  he  would  never  return  alive. 
But  he  pressed  on  Avith  his  two  sea-shore  Indians,  jiassing  through  cloud-lwidcs 
and  storms  until  he  reached  the  last  peak,  whence  lie  saw  "the  sea  by  Saco,  the 
gulf  i>f  Canada,  and  the  great  kike  Canada  River  came  out  of."  He  found  many 
crystals  here,  which  he  thought  were  diamonds,  and  from  which  the  chain  long 
bore  the  name  of  "  the  Chrystall  Hills."  Tradition  says  that  in  17Go  a  party  of  0 
of  Rogei-s'  Rangers,  retreating  from  St.  Francis,  were  led  up  Israel's  River  into 
these  deflles  by  a  treacherous  Indian  guide,  and  all  of  them  died  excci.t  one,  who 
reached  the  settlements  with  his  knapsack  lilled  with  human  flesh.     It  was  said 


S 


NoKl'U    coNWAV 


Ji'.nl,  .L 


'2i:\ 


*9 


f  I 


that  this  pui-ty  liore  tlie  greiit  silver  iiiia^'c  talccii  from  the  rhurch  nt  St.  FriiK-i^, 
nn«l  Hcvontl  of  thn  (Miiv  nutilfrs  nuulf  cariHwt  <|iii'st  iil'ti-r  thin  sfxniil  ri-lic.  A 
slioi't  Ic^fii'laiy  •  ra  IiHuwimI,  .ukI  tlii'ii  tlif  pinnicr  ruldiii^ts  l>e,'iiii  l<'  iiii>\(>  <.jt,i 
the  oiitlvin;,' -'itiis.  In  1771  tlii'  Nntdi  wis  ilisc  ivnc  I  ;  in  17:»-'  Alirl  Crawfniil 
lived  nil  tli'>  (iianl'H  Oravf  ;  in  ISn:!  a  sin  ill  t  iv-i  ii  \v  h  Imilt  tUfTc  :  ainl  in  .liily. 
18J0,  a  party  •••"  scvfii  pMillnnrii  .sii-pt  <i:i  lln'  siiimiiif  nl'  Mf  \Vasliin;;tiin,  ami 
piv«'  tiic  iiaiiics  wliirli  tin;  iniin'ip-il  jicaks  still  lnvir.  In  Isp.i  ihcliist  l)ri<llc-pafli 
to  tilt'  ^niiiinit  was  cut,  ami  ii  small  stone  hut  was  erected  near  that  point.  Tiie 
Siiniinit  House  was  Imilt  in  IS.VJ,  and  the  Tip-Toii  llmse  was  completed  shortly 
itller.  In  Sci>tciiilier,  is,'),",,  a  siii,dl  party  starte.l  one  at'ternoon  fo  walk  to  tlin 
Kiniiinit,  and  lieiii'.,' wiihotit  a  uuide  ltei',iine  hewildered  and  lost,  and  one  yoini'4 
lady  died  at  niidninlit  iroin  cold  and  weariness.  In  the  next  Aii;.,'nst,  u  Del  iwar« 
^'entleui.in  st.artcd  fi'iim  tlie  (ileii  without  a  iiuidc,  in  the  afternoon,  .ind  di(>d  near 
the  suininit  from  exiiosiire  to  a  cold  uii,'ht  stm'm.  L.itc  in  OcIoIht,  ls")|,;i  youir,; 
I'in),dish  jreiitleman  asccnilcd  al  >ne  from  (hawford's  to  the  summit,  and  fell  fioin  a 
ure.it  precipice  into  the  Amnionoosuc  Valley,  where  Ws  maicdcd  corpse  was  found. 
For  .soiiio  years  the  sumniit  has  been  occupied  diiriii:.,'  the  winter  as  a  station  of 
the  nieteorolo;,'ieal  dcpartiiient  of  the  U.  .S.  Army,  and  the  men  on  duty  have  vx- 
lierieiiced  the  mo-t  intense  cold  and  wat<died  terrific  storms.  The  thermometer 
(Fahrenheit)  has  disceinled  to  o'.i  bi'luw  zero,  ami  the  winds  have  attiiineil  a  ve- 
locity of  100  M.  an  hour. 

"  The  ;;eol<iyical  t'catnres  of  Mt.  Washin^'ton  possess  Imt  little  Interest.  Tho 
rocks  in  place  consist  of  a  coarst;  varii'ty  of  mic.i  slate,  passing  into  i,'nei->s,  wliii-h 
contains  a  few  crystals  of  bl.ick  tourmaline  and  quart/."  Thei'one  is  covered  with 
blocks  of  mica  slate  The  lloia  of  the  upper  region  is  iiearlyideiitic.il  with  tliat 
of  L'lbrador  and  Laplaml.  "The  period  when  the  White  Mts.  ceased  to  bo  ajjroup 
of  islands,  or  when,  by  the  emer^^eme  of  the  snrroiindiiijj  h)vv  land,  they  lirst,  be- 
came eonnecteil  with  the  continent,  is  of  very  modern  date,  Ke'do;^'ically  spcakin.i^." 
(Sir  Ciiaiu.ks  Lvki.i,.  )  Helow  the  broken  iind  distorted  stratum  of  mica  slato,  the 
vast  musa  of  the  luountaius  is  of  granite. 

North  Conway. 

Hotels.  *  Kiar.sar^'e  House,  .S.'jO-4ou  ^'iicsts,  Si. 00  a  day,  -a  fiiio  Ktriicturo, 
with  extensive  jiarlors  and  tliniii,'-room,  ,'iiid  a  !>'•  )ad  view  from  theeentr.il  towtsr  ; 
*Sunset  i'avilion,  opposite  the  Hpiscoi>al  cluircii  ;  Me.Milhin  House,  S,  of  the  vil- 
lage; Washington  House;  Kastmiu  House;  N.  Conway  House,  in  the  village: 
Intervale  House,  about  •_'  .M.  N'.,  ii"  ir  Ml.  Kiarsar:.,'e.  There  ,ire  over 'JO  lar;,'e  sum- 
mer boanliiiu'-liouses  in  and  around  N.  Conway,  most  of  which  are  comfortable 
and  ([iiiet.      f heir  prici;s  raii;,'e  tVoni  s  7.00  to  .>(  IJ.oo  a  week. 

Kuilroadii.  Tlu;  Ivistern  lliilroad  (sec  Iloute  ;!1)  runs  two  cypress  trains  each 
way  daily  (tliron'j;h  tlic  summer)  between  Boston  and  X.  Conway,  in  •'>  hours. 
Distance,  1^7  M.  ;  faro,  •'7O.O  •.  The  trains  leave  Hostoii  (timetable  <tf  1S7-')  at 
8.10  A.  M.  and  J .4  )  I'.  M..aiid  are  provided  with  Pullm an  ii.iilorcai.;.  The  l'.>rt- 
laiul  and  O^densiiuii:  Uiilroad  runs  three  trains  dailv  each  way  (throich  theiram- 
mer)  between  I'orlliud.md  N.  Conway.  Distance  (lo  .M.,  time  li^  -:'.  hoiir.i(se(>  Houte 
■$'.»),  This  line  connects  at  I'ortland  withstcaniiTs  for  B  i.-itoii,  and  trains  run  W.  from 
N.  Conway  for  IJ  M.,  to  Sawyer's  it  .ck,  on  the  road  to  the  White  Mt.  X  .(cli. 

Stages  leave  X.  Conway  I'orthi;  Crawford  House  ami  the  Glen  House  (coune-t- 
ing  for  Fi\uie(jnia  and  (Jorli.am)  .it  S  A.  .M.  ami  J  1'.  M.  Totlie  (lieu  Hons  ■,  iiO  M., 
ui  5  hours  ;  fare,  §3.00  ;  to  tin;  Crawford  House,  2'>  M.,  in  G-7  horns  ;  fare.  {•:'.. 5'). 
Daily  sta},'es  leave  W.  Ossipee  for  Centre  Harbor,  on  Luke  Winnepesaukee. 
Fare.  $3..'j0. 

Post  Office  and  telci;ra)ih  facilities  are  found  in  the  vi]laL,'e  ;  earriagc-.j  may  bo 
obtained  at  various  livery-stables  ;  there  are  several  stores  wheie  most  necessary 
articles  may  be  obtained  ;  and  there  are  three  churches,  liapt.,  Cong.,  and  Epis. 

North  Conway  is  a  pretty  village,  largely  coiriiiu:ieil  of  hotels  aii'l  sum- 
mer boarding-houses,  situated  on  a  natural  terrace  .30  ft.  above  the  inler- 
vales  of  the  Saco  River,  which  is  about  h  M.  distant.  "  On  the  W.,  the 
long  and  noble  Mote  Mt.  guards  it;  on  the  E.,  the  rough,  less  lolly,  ami 
bending  Rattlesnake  Ridge  helps  to  wall  it  in,  -    unattractive  enouj^h  in  tlie 


>'  1 


'2'2\    Jiout>'Jj. 


N OUT II    CONWAY. 


N'.  ; 


H.. 


li 


p  1    ,'    = 


rH        S 


ordinary  dayliglit,  but  a  great  favorite  of  the  setting  sun,  whicli  i.U'liglil>.  to 
glorify  it  with  Tyrian  drajjeiy.  On  the  S.  W.,  Cliocorua  manages  to  get 
a  pee})  of  its  lovely  nicrjlows.  Almost  the  whole  line  of  the  White  Mts. 
l)roper,  crowned  in  the  centre  hy  the  (hmic  of  Mt.  Washington,  closes  the 

only  12  or  !.'>  M.  distant  liy  the  air.     Mt. 


view  on  the  N.  W.  and  N. 
"Washington  does  not  seem  so  much  to  .stand  up,  as  to  lie  oat  at  ease  aloiig 
the  North.  The  leonine  grandi-ur  is  ihere,  but  it  is  the  lion  not  erect,  but 
couchant,  a  little  sl-epy,  .stretching  out  his  paws  and  enjoying  tlu^  sun. 

"The  distinction  of  N.  Cniiway  is,  that  it  is  a  large  natural  ].oem  in 
landscape, —a  quotatif>n  from  Arcadia,  or  a  suburl)  of  Paradise.  And 
then  the  sunsets  of  N.  C'miway  !  Ci  h-ridge  asked  Mont  Blanc  if  he 
liad  '  a  charm  to  stay  the  niuiiiing  star  in  Ids  stee]> course.'  It  is  time  for 
oo;ue  poet  to  i)ut  the  (pu'stion  to  those  Ijewitching,  elm-sj)rinkled  acres 


that  border  the  Saco,  bv  what  sorcery  th 


Mico,  ity  wiiat  sorcery  tliey  evoke,  evening  alter  evening, 
upon  the  heavens  that  watch  tliem,  such  lavish  and  Italian  bloom.  Xay, 
it  is  not  Italian,  for  the  basis  of  its  beauty  is  ])ure  blue,  and  the  .skies  of 
Italy  are  not  nearly  so  blue  as  those  of  New  England.  One  sees  more 
clear  sky  in  eight  summer  weeks  in  Conway,  probably,  tluiu  in  the  com 
pass  of  an  Italian  yi-ar."     (Staku  King.) 

Mount  Kiarsarge,  or  Pninawkct,  is  3  M.  from  the  village,  and  attains 
a  heiglit  of  o,'5G7  ft.  above  the  sea.  A  bridle-path  (horses  .^  2.00  and  guides 
.S2.()0  each)  has  been  made  to  the  summit,  on  which  there  is  a  small  hotel. 
The  view  frjm  this  jxnnt  end)races  the  village  and  the  valley  of  the 
S.ico,  with  the  great  range  of  the  Mote  Mts.  beyond,  "  its  wooded  wall 
ui»rcare(l  as  if  for  the  walk  of  some  angel  sentinel."  In  the  N.  and  W. 
is  a  vast  throng  of  mountains,  grouped  "  in  relation  to  (he  two  great 
centres,  —  the  notched  summit  of  Lafayette  and  the  noble  dome  of  Wash- 
ington." Lafayette  is  N.  of  W.,  28  -  30  M.  distant,  and  is  the  loftiest  of 
the  Francoina  Mts.  The  view  of  Mt.  Washington  from  Kiarsarge  is  one 
of  the  best  attainable,  while  in  the  opposite  direction,  100  ]\1.  S.  W.  it  is 
claimed  that  "the  lilmy  outline  of  Monadnock  gleams  like  a  sail  just 
fading  out  upon  a  vast  sea."  Sebago  Lake,  Pleasant  Mt.,  Fryeburg  vil- 
lage, and  Lovewell's  Pond  are  seen  in  the  S.  E.  ami  E.,  together  A'ith  a 
va't  area  of  eastern  Elaine.  It  is  worth  while  to  remain  over  night  at  the 
hotel  (§4.00  a  day),  to  enjoy  the  gorgeous  sunrise  and  sunset. 

The  Ledges  are  3  M.  from  the  village,  beyond  tin-  Saco,  where  Mote  Mt. 
terminates  in  clilTs  ranging  from  100  to  9G0  ft.  in  height,  and  extending 
nearly  5  il.  The  river  is  shallow  and  must  be  forded,  as  the  fierce  spring 
Hoods  render  bridges  imi)ossible.  A  curious  formation  of  white  rock 
(looking  like  a  horse  dashing  up)  which  was  once  visible  on  the  clilfs  (parts 
of  it  are  still  seen  from  N.  Conway),  has  caused  the  name  of  White  Horse 
Li'thje  to  be  ajiplied  to  a  part  of  these  clilfs.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
singular  cavity  in  the  rock  (100  ft.  above  the  river  and  easily  reached)  20 


I 


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WHITE  MOUNTAINS 


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NORTH   CONWAY. 


Route  33.     225 


ft.  wide,  40  ft.  long,  and  60  ft.  liigh,  uljeve  the  ledgo  liends  owv  in  an 
arch  above,  and  several  tall  trees  form  the  outer  wall.  "  And  truly  the 
waters,  frosts,  and  storms  tliat  scooped  .'uid  grooved  its  rurvcs  au<l  niches, 
seem  to  have  combined  in  froli<'  mimicry  of  Ootliic  art.  The  whole  front 
of  the  recess  is  shaded  Ity  trees,  which  kindly  stand  apart  just  enough  to 
frame  off  Kiarsarge  in  lovely  sjnnmctry,  —so  that  a  more  ronumtic  rest- 
ing-place for  an  hour  or  two  in  a  warm  aftenioon  <'an  hardly  be  imagined." 
Below  the  Cathedral  is  *  Echo  Lake,  a  beautifid  little  loch  under  the 
shadow  of  the  clifl's,  which  tlirow  l)ack  an  echo  over  its  tran((uil  waters. 
A  little  way  N.  of  tlio  Cathedral  is  a  line  d(nd>le  fall,  abo\o  and  below 
which  are  several  deej)  basins  in  the  solid  rock,  filled  with  sparkling 
water,  one  of  which  is  known  as  JHancCs  Bath. 

The  Artists'  Falls  are  in  the  forest  1^  M.  E.  of  the  village,  and,  though 
insiginticant  in  themselves,  are  in  combination  witli  beautiful  group- 
ings of  rock  and  woodland  scenery.  The  Artists'  Lrdyr  is  some  distance 
S.  of  N.  Conway,  and  cnnimands  noble  *  views  of  the  village  and  valley 
with  Mt.  Washington  looming  fa'-  above  and  l)eyond  them.  Chocorua  is 
seen  in  the  S.  E.  across  tlie  level  and  luxuriant  valley  in  which  glimpses 
are  gained  of  the  Swift  and  the  Saco  Rivers. 

Excui-sions  are  made  from  N.  Conway  to  Thoni  Hill,  8  M.  ;  Dundee, 
10  M. ;  Sligo,  13  M. ;  Joi'key  Cap  Mt.  and  Lovewell's  I'on*l,  in  Fryelnirg, 
11-13  M. ;  Mount  Cliocorua,  18  M. ;  Goodrich  and  Jackson  Falls,  0-9 
H. ;  "  around  the  square,"  a  favorite  drive  lu-ar  Mt.  Kiarsarge,  f)  M. ;  and 
up  the  naiTOW  western  valley  to  Swift  River  Falls,  18  M.,  with  Chocorua 
on  the  1.,  Mote  and  Bear  Mts.  on  the  r.,  and  Passaconaway  in  front. 
Chninpni'i/s  Falls  are  \  isited  by  this  road,  and  are  very  beautiful  in  high 
water. 

K.  Conway  to  the  Glen  House  and  Gorham. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  village,  the  Cathedral  Woods  and  Mr.  Bigelow's 
elegant  cottage  are  passed  on  the  r.  and  line  views  are  afforded  of  tlie 
upper  intervales  undistigured  by  railway  trestles  and  eniljankments.  Mt. 
Kiarsarge,  on  the  r.,  appears  in  constantly  changing  forms,  as  the  Inter- 
vale and  Pequawket  Houses  are  passed,  and  ojsposite  the  Kenison  House 
is  a  foot-jiath  by  which  this  "  charming  ])yra]iiid  "  is  sometinas  ascendtnl. 
After  the  road  crosses  the  East  Branch  of  the  Saco  it  bends  to  the  W. 
and  affords  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  Conway  valley.  Shortly  after 
passing  Stilphen's  (under  Cedar  Mt.)  a  fine  retrospective  view  of  Kiar- 
sarge is  afforded.  TJuirn  Mt.  is  now  seen  on  the  r.  and  Iran  Mt.  on  the 
1.  (in  advance),  and  the  road  passes  over  Goodrich  Falls,  which  may  1)0 
viewed  from  the  rocks  on  tlie  r.  bank,  or,  better  still,  fiom  the  shore 
below  (short  but  steep  })ath).  These  falls  are  on  the  Ellis  River,  and  are 
the  heaviest  i:\  the  mts.  As  the  stage  now  passes  along  the  Ellis  River 
lre(iuent  glimpse.-;  of  the  mts.  appear,  and  Jaclcson  City  is  soon  reacheil. 


In 

nA 


■  I 


226     Route  33. 


(!LEN   liOUrfH. 


i    !    \ 


Tliis  "city  "has  two  hotels,  T  ■  Jackson  Ilinise  ami  Thoiii  Mt.  House 
(!$  10.00  a  Aveck),  witli  iour  or  1     ■  (hvcllings  and  a  li.iptist  church. 

The  Jackson  jieoplo  Vwcainc  discontfiitrd  diirinf,'  the  .Secession  War,  on  account 
of  crushing  taxes,  and  after  some  acts  of  violence  on  tlieir  part,  it  was  found 
necessary  to  occupy  the  place  with  U.  S.  troops,  who  were  (piartered  in  the  chiireh. 
Tiie  town  was  settled  in  1778,  and  in  17i'0  eaiiie  L'apt.  i'lidsham  and  live  families 
on  snow-shoes  and  sledges.  fSliortly  alter,  Daniel  i'inkhani  built  a  ru<le  mad 
throiij^h  the  notch  which  still  licius  his  name,  and  the  little  settlement  was  called 
New  Madltury.  In  Is(m)  this  mtme  was  (handed  to  Adams,  and  iu  lS-211,  when 
Adams  and  Jackson  were  candidates  tor  the  I'residiiicy,  and  the  latter  received 
every  vote  (except  one)  in  the  town,  it  took  the  name  of  Jackson. 

Many  rare  minerals  arc  found  hero,  and  tin-iuines  have  been  worked  or 
one  of  tlie  hills.  This  central  plaza  in  thecilyof  hills  is  much  freijuented 
in  summer  by  artists,  trout-fishers,  and  lovers  of  (juiet  ami  sequestered 
scenery.  Tlie  Jackson  Falls  are  close  to  the  villaj,fe  (seen  from  the  bridge 
over  Wildcat  Brook  on  the  r.),  and  are  very  beautifid  in  high  water.  Iron 
Mt.  is  2,900  ft.  high  and  looms  up  on  the  1.,  while  Tin  Mt.  is  on  the  r. 
Eaghj  Mt.  on  the  N.  is  rounded  on  the  r.  after  leaving  the  village.  Tlie 
road  now  ascends  through  the  thickening  forest  Avith  the  Ellis  lliver  on 
the  I.,  while  occasional  glimi)ses  of  tin;  Carter  Mt.  are  obtained  on  the  r. 
No  lOuses  arc  seen  in  this  desolate  pass,  and  7  ]M.  beyond  Jackson  the 
path  to  the  Glen  Ellis  Fall  is  seen  on  the  r.  4-5  JT.  beyond  ^wiih  occa- 
sional glimpses  of  Tu(;kernian's  Ravine  and  tlie  slopes  of  Mt.  Washing- 
ton), the  spacious  *  Glen  House  is  i-cachcd.  This  hotel  accommodates 
500  guests  (.^  4.50  aday),  keei)s  a  band  of  music  througli  the  summer,  and 
has  a  parlor  and  dining-room,  each  of  which  is  100  by  45  ft.  in  dimensions. 
"  The  Glen  House  is  at  the  veiy  base  of  the  monarch,  and  Adams,  Jeffer- 
son, Clay,  and  Madison  bend  around  towards  the  E.  with  no  lower  hills 
to  obstruct  the  impressiou  of  their  height."  The  Glen  is  1,(532  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  S30  ft.  above  Gorhani  and  is  watered  by  Peabody  River  and 
surrounded  by  lofty  peaks.  On  the  E.  is  the  l(»Mg  daik  ridge  of  the 
forest-'^overed  Carter  Mt.,  and  on  the  W.  is  the  noble  brotherhood  of  the 
five  chief  peaks  of  New  England.  Mt.  Madison  {5,:3t)l  ft.)  is  4  M.  N.  W. 
in  an  air-line,  and  next  in  the  majestic  group  comes  the  sharp  and  sym- 
metrical ])yramid  of  Mt.  Adams  (5,800  ft.).  The  massive  crest  of  Mt. 
Jefferson  (5,700  ft.)  comes  next,  then  Mt.  Clay  (5,400  ft.),  and  S.  E.  of 
the  hotel  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  (»>,2S5  ft.)  is  seen  peering  over 
lofty  spurs  and  secondary  peaks.  "  MAJ.  Clay  Washington  "  is  .a  for- 
mula whicli  fixes  in  the  ndnd  the  order  of  these  mountains.  A  V)etter  view 
is  obtained  by  ascending  for  a  few  hundred  frt't  the  mt.  behind  the  hotel, 

Thompson's  Falls  are  about  2  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Glen  House,  and  a 
guide-board  on  the  1.  shows  the  ])oint  where  the  N.  Conway  road  is 
(juitted,  and  a  forest-path  is  entered.  The  falls  are  \  M.  from  the  road, 
and  the  brook  may  be  followed  up  for  a  considerable  distance,  the  walk 
affording  grand  retrospective  views  of  Mt.  Washington  and  Tr.i '- :«:.:'.i'it 


I 


I 

I 


4 


I 


CIORIIAM. 


Route  33.     227 


llaviiie.     Not  far  from  these  falls  is  the  quii^t  and  scfludi'd  1>asiii  oalli'il 
the  Eiiierahl  Ponl. 

Tlie  *  Crystal  Cascade  is  gained  hy  a  patli  leadinj^  from  the  road  into 
the  forest  to  the  1.,  about  1  M.  beyond  Tlioinpson's  Falls,  Tlicre  is  abont 
^  hour  of  continuous  ascent  to  the  fall,  whicli  is  near  the  mouth  of  Tuck- 
cnnan's  Ravine,  and  is  best  seen  from  a  high  and  moss-covered  k'(lgo 
oj)i)Osite. 

"Down  it  cniiu's,  leaping,  slidin;;;,  trii)pinj,',  widening,'  its  jmrc  tido,  and  then 
pitlicriii}^  its  thin  sheet  to  ynsh  tlwoujili  a  ]iani>\viii!,'  pass  in  tiio  n)ci<s,  —  all  th(» 
way  tliiis,  fri»in  under  the  sheer  walls  of  Tiirlveriiiau's  liaviiie,  some  miles  above, 
till  it  reaelies  the  curve  opj)osite  the  jioiiit  on  which  we  stand,  .'inil  winding; 
around  it,  sweei)S  down  the  hendin;^  stairway,  shatterin;,'  its  substanee  into  ex- 
(jnisite  crystal,  but  sending,'  oft'  enouu'h  water  to  t!ie  ri.v'ht  side  of  its  patli  to  slip 
ami  trickle  over  the  lovely,  dark-j^Tcen  mossi-s  that  clin;,' to  the  ^Tay  and  piiriili" 
rocks.  We  never  look  at  the  Crystal  Cascade  without  reverinj;  and  n'JoicinLt  over 
tlie  ])()etry  with  which  nature  invests  the  birth  of  so  common  a  thin,^' as  water," 

Along  and  difficult  ascent  along  tiie  brook-bank  leads  into  Tuckerman's  Havine. 
The  Cascade  falls  about  80  ft. 

The  *61en  Ellis  Fall  is  about  4  M.  from  the  Glen  llnu^it,  and  is 
piined  by  a  plaidc-walk  turnin:''  to  the  1.  from  the  N.  Conway  road  iii'i 
the  forest.  Tliis  is  the  finest  fall  in  the  mts.,  ami  tlie  lOllis  Itivcr  hero 
l)lunges  down  60  ft.  in  one  thick  white  mass,  half  svnik  in  a  dcej)  chauntd 
■svhich  it  has  cut  in  the  cliff.  The  steep  fall  of  (?0  ft,  U  ittrfiiced  b)'  a 
descent  of  '20  ft.  at  a  sharp  angle.  From  the  top  id'  the  clill"  one  soo:4 
"the  slide  .and  foam  of  the  narrow  and  concentrateil  cataracl  In  whci'e  It 
spUssh«~v  into  the  dark  green  pool.  1()0  ft.  below."  A  belter  \|ew  of  this 
*' l>t>art  of  mt.  wil<(lncss  "  is  gained  by  (lescending  ii  long  series  of  rudo 
S4re|»i5  to  the  edgt'  of  the  jhv.I  below  thi^  fall.  "  It  is  feminine  and  maid- 
««ly  grace  that  is  iUustrate*!  V»y  the  Crystal  Casca<le  ;  it  is  masculino 
youth,  the  spirit  of  heroic  adventure,  that  is  suggested  by  this  stream." 

The  Garwpt  Podls  are  1  M.  N,  of  tlie  Glen  House,  ne.-ir  the  Gorliam 
road,  and  show  some  curious  rock-*  arving  in  the  l)ed  of  the  PculMidy 
River.  Ak)Ut  l.V  M.  beyoml,  by  crossing  the  bridsre  to  the  1.,  Ilin  point 
is  reache<.l  (near  a  farmhouse)  where  tlie  singula.-  appearance  of  a  dis- 
torted human  face  is  seen  on  a  peak  of  Imp  Mt.  t^rham  is  8  M.  N.  10, 
of  the  Glen  House,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  semi-ilaily  stages  (fare, 
$1.50)  running  down  the  valley  of  the  Peabody  River,  with  Imp  Mt.  and 
Mts.  Moriah  and  Surprise  on  the  r. 


'^1 


■. 


Gorham, 


;«:,:!i  It 


Hotclg.  Ciorham  House  ;  Eaglo  House  ;  the  great  -Mpine  House  was  burned, 
in  (t.  tuber,  lS7-_>. 

Stages  to  the  Glen  House  semi-daily,  ^lountain  wa'jons  run  Ir,' pmnllv,  but 
irre-ulirly,  l>y  tlie  Cherry  Mt.  road  to  the  Ciawford  and   .Mt.  \V,isliin4toii  House;. 

Kailroail.  The  (fraud  Tr\nd<  Railway  runs  to  Portland  ('.U  .M.)  in  ll  -.')  hoius. 
Hv  taking  the  train  to  Noilhnmljerland  (HI  .M.  N.  W.),  a  connection  is  made  with 
the  B.  C.  &  M,  and  White  Mts.  U.  U.,  rmuung  to  Lancaster  and  Mttleton  (ll.jiilu 


^:i'ifeaeawrrfm» 


228    Route  33. 


GORIIAM. 


i  ,1 

I.  I  i 


V  ■ 

h 

l'        t 


Gorliaiii  in  a  lliri\iiig  village  at  the  eoiifluence  of  the  Peahody  and  An- 
flrosc( )<,'<,'! n  Kivers,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Wliite  Mts.  and  8fMj  ft.  al)()ve 
the  sea.  It  has  been  almost  eiifiivly  created  Ity  the  Grand  Trunk  Kail- 
way,  which  has  its  i\'])air-shoi)s  licre.  "  For  livcr  .scenery  c<»nil)iiied  witli 
impressive  ml.  forms,  IIk;  imni('(liate  vicinity  of  (Joiham  Kurjiasscs  all  the 
other  districts  from  whi(;h  the  higliest  peaks  !ire  visible," 

*  Mt.  Hayes  is  just  N.  E.  of  Gorhani,  and  attains  a  height  of  2,500  ft. 

Tlie  Androscoggin  is  crossed  near  the  hotels  by  a  suspension  foot-bridge, 

225  ft.  long,  remarkabh;  as  the  vork  of  one  man  (a  hard-working  villager), 

who  conceived  the  work  ii'id  executed  it  alone.     He  has  also  madt;  a  piilh 

to  the  summit  of  the  mt.  (the  ascent  reipiire.s  2  hours).     The  view  is  tinis 

described  :  — 

"  Tlio  rich  upland  of  RaiKlolpli,  over  wliidi  tlie  rid^jcs  of  Madison  and  Adams 
lieavc  t()\var<lH  tlic  S.,  liist.  liolils  the  eye.  Next  tlie  Kiii^'uiar  curve  in  tlie  lihiu 
Andrt)sc(i^:^,'in  around  the  Lary  farm,  aniiini;  lil\e  a  h.)\v  diawn  taut.  Dnwn  tins 
valii'y  Shellmnie,  (iilead,  W.  liethel,  and  IJetiwl,  were  laid  into  the  landsca)ie  with 
rich  mosaics  of  ^rove  and  ;,'rass  and  lijienin^'  s-^iain,  -  uee<iin;.;  ,i  ln'ush  dip|M'd  in 
molten  ojial  to  jiaint  tlieir  wavy,  tremulous  lieauty.  Directly  opiiosite,  secniin;;ly 
only  an  airow-sliot's  distaine,  were  the  russet  ravines  of  Moriali  and  the  shadow- 
CooIihI  stairways  of  Carter."  Mt.  Wa.shin^don  is  .seen  to  best  advanta;;e  fii>m  tins 
point,  —  "  Mt.  Hayes  is  the  chair  .set  by  the  Creator  at  tlie  jiroper  distance  and 
angle  to  appreciate  and  enjoy  Jii.s  kiii.uly  prominence." 

*  Mt.  Surprise  is  a  peak  of  Morian  about  1,200  ft.  above  Gorham, 
lying  H,  I'],  of  the  village,  with  a  bi idle-path  leading  through  a  fine  foreit 
to  its  sunnnit  (2/,  M.  frf)m  the  IioIcIh.)  Horses  are  easily  obtained,  but 
good  walkeis  c/ui  niik(;  the  ascenl  on  foot  in  S'O  ndnutes.  This  jicak 
nusfains  the  sanu*  relation  lo  Ihe  j'iidvham  Motch  as  Mt.  Willard  does  to 
tho  {JriVWfnrd  Notch.  Looking  dp  the  i)ass,  Mt.  Carter  is  seen  on  the  1., 
and  the  live  prcHJdenllal  pefjks  on  the  r.,  with  Madison,  ''the  Apollo  of 
the  higldiinds,"  boldly  advanced.  O/i  the  H,,  In  Ktro/igest  contrast,  are 
the  sweet  and  fertile  lowlands  of  the  Androscoggin,  with  their  jieaceful 
fai'nis  and  pastoral  beauty.  An  almost  obliterated  old  Inidle-path  leads 
from  this  crest  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Moriah,  4,700  ft.  afK>v«  the  sea. 
This  peak  is  rarely  visited,  but  is  sai<l  to  command  a  nobl*  view. 

Jhoiiftifj/h  Hill  is  5  M.  W.  of  the  village,  and  it«  «umniit  i>-  x»J'**^  l>y  a 
road  that  rises  f>0(i  ft.  on  the  way.  From  the  roa^  and  the  WH-to|>  are 
gained  the  noblest  *pros](ects  of  tlic  northern  slopes,  lines,  and  peak«  of 
the  presidential  group,  e.xpecially  of  Ma^lisou  awl  A/lam«, 

Hileail  is  10-12  M.  from  Gorham,  and  the  <lrive  Ihither  is  verf 
pleasant,  being  alongside  the  river,  with  ever-changing  hilW-enery  on 
either  hand.  The  Leml-Mine  Jirldi/c  is  i  M.  E.  of  Gorham,  near  a® 
abandoned  mine,  aud  is  celebrated  for  its  afternoon  and  sunset  views. 
This  point  should  be  visited  between  f)  and  7  P.  M.  Madison,  Adams, 
and  Washington  at  that  hour  become  "volcano-pictures,"  while  the  n<'arer 
summits  of  Moriah,  Hayes,  and  Baldcap  form  their  heavily  outlined 
framewoik. 


JEFFKRSOX    II II. I 


Piouic  .11.    229 


1(1  An- 

ubove 
L  Hail- 
ed with 

all  the 

,500  ft. 

ill;i;j;('r), 
J  a  I'ii'ili 
!  is  thus 

(1   Adiiius 

the  Miio 

)o\vn  thi! 

(lUijicd  ill 
scftiiiii^^ly 
(.  sliinluw- 
fioiii  tliis 
tiuae  and 

Gorhaiu, 
ine  loll' 't 
liiK'd,  liut 
his  lU'ak 
I  (hu's  to 
u  the  1., 
,\ polio  of 
litrast,  are 
■  jicareful 
lalh   U'.kIs 
the  sta. 

,111,-  't  hy  a 

M     V.H    of 

is  very 

iicvy  on 
111,  near  ii« 
list't  view.s. 
iMi,  Adiinis, 
llu'ii'-ari!!- 
oulliiit'd 


*^  Berlin  Falls  arc  •')  M.  N.  of  Gorham  hy  a  jdcasaiit  rivor-road  (or  hy 
the  railway).  The  Androscoggin  Ilivcr  licre  pours  tlie  wati-rs  of  tho 
distant  Unibagog  and  Kangeh'y  Lakes  in  "a  rlcaii  an<l  powt-Hul  lilc 
througli  a  narrow  granite  i)ass,  dcsrcnding  nearly  '2nO  ft.  in  llu!  courst^  of  ji 
mile.  We  do  not  think  that  in  New  F.ngland  there  is  any  passage  of  river 
pas.sion  that  will  conipare  with  the  Berlin  Falls,  How  madly  it  hurls 
tliedeep  transparent  amlier  down  the  i)as.s  and  over  the  boulders^  —  Hying 
ami  roaring  like  a  drove  of  young  lions,  crowding  each  other  in  furious 
rush  after  prey  in  sight."  The  best  view  is  from  the  rooks  near  the  stre:i;u 
below  the  falls,  Avhih!  the  cataract  is  seen  in  niiil-careei-  from  a  bridge  ov.u' 
the  gorge.     Near  this  jxiint  is  the  Jjerliu  ludU  J/m/se. 

From  Gorham  to  the  Notch, 
by  way  of  the  Waundtek  House,  is  32-34  M.,  and  the  ronrl  is  viclicr  .;i 
scenery  than  any  other  in  the  mts.  No  stages  run  on  this  routi-,  bit 
wagons  and  drivers  can  be  obtained  at  Gorham.  The  vast  and  tmcdii- 
cealed  ranges  of  the  live  gre.'it  mts.  are  seen  for  mile  after  ndle  in  their 
most  imposing  forms.  "  First  Madison  and  Adams  come  into  view,  a'l  I 
we  drive  directly  by  their  base  ami  under  their  summits  in  i)assing  over 
Randolph  Hill."  Beyond  the  deep  ravine  in  the  side  of  Adams  the  eastt  1- 
lated  peak  of  JefTerson  is  seen,  and  soon  after  Mts.  Pleasant,  Fi'anklhi, 
and  Monroe  come  into  view.  From  Martin's,  13  M.  from  Gorham,  Mt. 
Clay  is  visible,  and  just  beyond  is  the  majestic  head  of  Wasinngton. 
Near  a  little  red  school-house  in  this  vicinity,  George  L.  Brown  painte  I 
his  masterpiece,  "The  Crown  of  New  Fingland,'  now  owned  by  th;; 
Prince  of  Wales.  16  -  18  M.  from  Gorham  is  Jeffrrsini  hill,  "  the  tdtuit  t 
thvlc  of  grandeur  in  an  artist's  pilgrimage  among  the  N.  11.  Mts.,  for  at 
no  other  point  can  be  seen  the  WIdte  Mts.  in  such  airay  and  force."  Tlie, 
*  WdHinbck  House  is  situated  here,  and  commands  su])erb  views  of  t!ie 
great  peaks  in  the  S.  E.  "  For  grandeur  .ind  for  opportunities  of  study- 
ing the  wildness  and  Tiiajesty  of  the  sovereign  range,  the  Cherry  Mountain 
route  is  without  a  rival  in  New  Hami)shire,"  said  Thomas  Starr  King,  Ihi 
gifted  Unitarian  divine,  who  wrote  the  adndrable  book  called  "The  Whi.vi 
Hills."  Mr.  King  died  at  San  Francisco  in  18G4,  and  his  noblest  (visibl;) 
monument  is  Mt.  Starr  King,  E.  of  Jefferson.  From  the  hotel  or  villagj 
the  bold  and  majestic  White  Mts.  loom  up  in  tlie  S.  E. ,  and  a  lield-glas.j 
shows  the  trains  moving  up  Mt.  Washington,  ami  the  hotels  on  ils  sum- 
mit. Cherry  Mt.  DIls  the  S.,  while  in  the  S.  W.  is  the  Fi'anconia  Lliing!*, 
■with  Lafayette  proudly  pre-eminent.  In  the  W.  are  the  pleasant  meadows 
which  border  the  Connecticut  Kiver,  and  beyond  them  some  of  the 
Vermont  liills  are  seen.  Jefferson  Hill  is  7  M.  from  Lancaster,  lo  M. 
frf)|n  Whiti^lield  ;  15  M.  from  Dalton  ;  and  33  M.  from  the  I'rofile  House, 
lie  road  to  the  Notch  (16  M,  distant)  runs  S.  from  the  Wanmlielc 


m 


1 


K    . 


•    I. 


230     Jionfy.U. 


UIM'HIl    liNKTI.HTT. 


House,  Hiul  "for  5  M.  fioin  this  point  o\>-v  the  .lefTcison  nuwlows,  in 
travcllin;;  towanls  tlic  Notch,  wc  riflu  in  lull  view  of  every  suniniit  of  thu 
•;haiii,  sfcinj^  \V;i>hiiij,'tiin  in  tli  •  conire  (hMuinant  over  all."  Tlic  jiassa-^^e 
of  Cherry  Mt.  is  cll'ccte.l  hy  n  vow^h  nii'l  te<li()iis  road,  aii<l  the  \\'/i{f<'  Mt. 
House  is  niachetl,  after  which  I  hi-  new  Fnhnun  Htnuse  is  passed,  tlio 
AniinonooHUC  lliver  is  crossed,  and  tiie  (carriage  reaches  the  t'rair/onl 
House. 

There  is  a  shorter  rn  id  tliaii  this,  between  Gorliani  and  the  Notch,  and 
travellers  who  wisli  to  go  l>y  .Ictferson  Hill  shonld  havt;  the  fact  under- 
stood. This  loiih!  can  he  taken  from  the  (Jlen  House,  without  going  to 
CJorhanj,  by  turning  to  the  1.  from  the  (Jorham  road  about  2^  M.  N.  of 
the  (Hen  House,  passing  around  the  base  of  Madison,  and  entering  the 
Cherry  Mt.  road  near  Kandolph  Hill, 


} 


.1 


1 1 


N.  Conway  to  the  Notch. 

The  route  is  the  same  as  that  to  the  Glen  House  as  far  as  Bartlett 
Corner,  where  the  Notch  road  diverges  to  the  W.,  and  crosses  in  succes- 
sion the  Ellis  River,  the  Rocky  Rraiu'i,  and  the  Saco  River.  The  latter 
stream  is  followed  u])  to  its  bi.lhplao",  hiding,  at  first,  through  a  glen 
between  the  Mote  Mts.  on  the  1.  and  Stanton  Mt.  on  the  r.  After  crosf> 
ing  the  Rocky  Branch,  the  Wliite  Ledge  is  rounded  on  the  r.  at  the  E. 
end  of  Stanton  Mt.  Mt.  Carrigain  looms  up  far  ahead  with  its  tri])lc  peaks 
(the  highest  of  which  rises  4,800  ft,),  and  the  road  ]nisses  over  narrow 
intervales,  with  a  fine  retrospect  of  Kiarsarge.  The  Chapel  of  the  Hills 
(a  neat  b'ttlo  church  (h'dicated  in  18.54)  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and  then  the 
U2>2)cr  Jlarth'tt  Jlmi.'^e,  where  passengers  l)y  the  moniing  stages  take 
dinner.  This  rude  glen  was  .st '.tied  in  1777,  and  in  17!'t>  was  named  in 
honor  of  Josiah  fUirtlett,  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
at  that  time  ['resident  of  N.  II.  The  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad 
is  now  being  built  through  the  Notch,  and  will,  at  no  distant  day,  meet 
the  section  of  track  which  is  b^'ing  laid  from  St.  Johnsl)ury  (V'ermont) 
towards  the  mts.  Trains  will  run  in  the  summer  of  1873,  from  Portland 
and  N.  Conway  to  Upper  Bartlett.  Its  tei'.ii»orary  terminus  is  near  the 
great  ledge  running  out  to  the  road  (v>u  the  1.),  known  as  Hawifer's  Ruck. 

A  solitary  hunter  iiaiiii'd  Nasli,  wliile  chasing  a  moose  on  Clierry  Mt.,  saw  the 
Notcli  niii'iiiiij;-  tlnniiiili  tlic  mts.,  and  >  ntcrcil  and  expldred  it.  llr  cniiccivcd  tl  it 
a  road  could  lie  uiadc  tlndui^li  this  jir.ss  to  couiH'ct  tiie  uinnT  C'oo.s  country  with 
the  eoust,  with  wliich  its  ('oiinuunii  atioii  was  llicn  nuidi'  iiy  a  lou;,'  littour  around 
the  mts.  He  iciuntcd  his  discovery  to  Gov.  Wcutwiuth  (in  177."0.  ^^1'"  told  him 
that  if  he  would  ;j;t't  a  liorsc  tl':'iu^di  the  jiass,  he  wouM  jiive  hiiu  a  '  "j,'e  grant  of 
land.  Nash  then  secured  the  ai(l  of  anotlier  luniter  named  Sawyer,  and  they 
hauleil  a  Imrsc  through,  lowcriu,:;  hiui  over  elills  and  diiviug  hiui  'uough  tlie 
rivei',  until  they  enu'T-ied  here  'I'lieii  .Sawyer  drained  tiie  rnui  fr<jh.  his  Imttle, 
and  Indke  it  against  the  ledge,  \vhi(di  he  named  .Sawyer's  Kock.  .\  road  was 
Imilt  "with  the  neat  jMoceeils  ol'  a  eonliseated  estate,"  and  the  lirsL  a.rtiide  of 
('(xis  produce  sei!t  flown  through  the  Notch  was  a  bariel  of  tobacco,  v.liiie  the 
Urst  inerehandise  sent  up  liom  the  coast  was  a  barrel  of  nun. 


I 


tl, 
tl) 


\ 


THE  NOTCH. 


H>mle33.     231 


vs,  in 
.»■  the 

,•  ML 
\,  tl:0 
irjoi'd 

h,  nn<l 

UlultT- 
)U)g  to 
,  N.  of 
inp  the 


Bartlctt 

SUCCt'S- 

10  laliev 
I  a  K^t'n 
;er  crosr;- 
t  tlu".  K. 

■  narrow 

;he  uniK 

then  the 

.rrcS    take 

lained  in 
Ifucc,  and 
Uaih'oatl 
ay,  meet 
crmout) 
Porthiud 
near  the 
rb  Rock. 

_  ^  saw  the 
i-i'ivcdtl  it 
luutry  Willi 
li(ir  aroinid 
tdl'l  I'i") 
I;,'  grant  of 
,  aiul  tla'y 
Ji  rough  the 
|Uis  bottle, 
road  was 
iutiilo  of 
I  whiU'  tlie 


Rounding   Ifarf^n  Lfihfe  ilic   road  new  turns    tn    tlic  N.  and  or<>ss«s 
Sawyer's  lliver,  which  Iion  its  sDurce  in  Ih'uiis  I'ond,  \-U  ^^.  disi  iiit,  a 
locality  famous  for  trout.      Sf»on  aftur,  Xcurj/'.n  Jironk  is  cro.vsed  l>y  n 
hrid-'"  tlirowu  over  a  rciiiarkahio  ravine  2<>0  ft.  Innj;,  -*'  ft.  wide,  and  35 
ft.  docp.     This  prctly  Iti-uolc  rises  in  a  h)iicly  nii»uiitain  tarn  uhout  "J.^  M. 
from  the  road,  and  is  named  for  a  hu-klt-ss  maiden  who  walked  one  « old 
afternoon  or  nij^'ht  from  liancastcrtothis  point  in  pursuit  of  a  fait  hlc^sshtvcr. 
Wet,  chilh'd,  and  (h-athly  woary,  sljo  .sat  (h>wn  by  a  tree  nc.jr  tliis  hrook, 
and  was  tliere  found  frozen  to  (h'atli.     Just  Ix'yond  this  jihice,  on  Ww.  I., 
is  seen  the  t^ravc  of  Abel  Crawford,  "  Uiv  ])atiiarch  of  the  motnitains,"  a 
jiioneer  and  itioiuitain-truidi!  of  many  years  a^'o.     After  passing:;  the   Aft. 
C'rair/ord  House,  Mts.  Crawford  and  Uesolution  and  the  Giant's  Stairs 
are  seen  on  the  r.,  the  latter  toweriii}^  in  broken  masses  to  tlie  hei;;ht  of, 
r>,ijOO  ft.     The  forest  now  closes  lu  on  tlie  roa.'.,  whidi  crosses  the  Saco 
near  the  foot  of  the  (iiant's  Stairs,  and  rei  rosses  it  aluuit  a  ndle  l)eyond, 
with  a  line  view  up  the  h)n;.:,  (h'ej)  gorj/e  to  tlu<  r.    Turning  now  io  tlio 
N.  W.  the  road  enters  the  Notch,  with  the  vast  mass  of  Mt.  Webster  on 
the  r.,  towering  to  a  lieiglit  of  1,000  ft.,  and  Will.y  Mt.  on  the  I.     Passinf? 
over  the  tree-grown  fragments  of  the  mt.  which  have  fallen  in  long-past 
avalanches,  the  WilL-y  House  is  reached. 

The  great  amount  of  travel  fhnni;,di  tlie  Notch  in  winter,  caused  by  the  Coos 
rnaners  carryinj^  tlii'ir  produee,  to  tiie  eastern  towns,  renilere(l  a  lioted  liere  very 
rlesiralilo.  So  this  JKaise  was  Ijuilt  al)out  l.^JO  (Siiauldiiij,'  says  in  17',i;!),  and  was 
octaijiied  in  is^T)  by  .Mr.  Willi'V.  in  Angu.^t,  IS-JO,  altera  lonj^  drou;,'lit  the  mts.  wer •■ 
as.sailed  l)y  a  furious  .storm,  .vliiclj  caused  the  rivor  to  rise  rajiidly,  and  durini^  tliw 
nijihtan  enonnon.s  mass  (if  earth,  rocks,  and  trocs  slid  froiu  .Mt.  Willey  into  tiitj 
valley.  Tliis  avalanelio  w.i-  piit  by  a  siiii'.p  ledge  bark  uf  the  hou.se,  and  (lowed 
on  both  sides  without  hail,  ig  it.  lUit  the  family  had  left  the  lioust;  (prolialily 
fearing  the  swelling  ti>rrentof  the  .Saeo),  and.  tK'in,c  soniewliere  In  the  trat  i;  of  the 
slide,  every  persou  wa.s  killed.  Mr.  and  M'v.  Willey  and  their  .">  ■  liildren,  witli  2 
hired  nit>n,  ilied  on  that  fatal  ni;^ht,  and  (J  ol  the  bodies  were  fouml,  ^adlN  nuiti- 
lated,  J'lie  house  has  been  oeeupied  sin(^o  18"J7,  and  is  shown  to  V'sitors  for  a 
small  fee.  During  storms  roeUs  are  sometimes  seen  plunging  ilowu  from  the 
oi)i)osite  elitl's  of  Att.  Webster.  In  174^!,  when  a  i>arty  of  llant;ers  were  marching 
throu,u;li  a  valley  near  the  more  southerly  of  the  White  Jits,  they  were  alarmed  liy 
sounds  like  volleys  of  musketry  among  the  detiles.  Skirnnshin;.,'  jiarties  of  scouts 
were  sent  in,  who  discovered  that  the  noi.se  was  caused  i)y  fal  ing  rocks. 

After  leaving  the  Willey  House,  the  road  a-scends  slowly  for  3  V,., 
passes  through  the  narrow  Gate  of  tlie  Notch,  and  stops  ut  the  *  Crawford 
House.  This  is  a  ia.ge  and  eh;gant  .summer  hotel,  with  accommodations 
for  250  guests,  at  $  4.f>0  a  day.  It  is  situated  on  a  platc^au  2,000  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  faces  the  Notch.  Near  the  house  arc  two  .spi'ings  within 
.stone's-throw  of  each  other,  the  waters  of  one;  of  which  pass  to  the  sea  by 
the  Connecticut  River,  while  the  other  empties  into  the  Sa(;o,  and  reaches 
the  ocean  on  the  coast  of  Maine.  There  is  a  pretty  lakelet  near  the  Gate 
of  the  Notch,  whence  Hows  the  young  Saco  River. 

Mt.  Willard  is  easily  ascended  from  this  point  by  a  carriage-road  'J  .M. 
long,  and  tho  walk  upward  through  this  forest  avenue  is  full  of  pli:as\ire. 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(71b)  872-4S03 


4?.. 


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6^ 


232    Route  33. 


CUAWFORD  HOUSE. 


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The  •*  view  down  the  Notch  is  wonderful,  embracing  two  Titanic  nit. 
walls,  beginning  with  Webster  on  the  1.  and  Willey  on  the  r.,  and  running 
S.  for  leagues,  with  haughty  Chocorua,  18-20  M.  away,  closing  the  vista. 
The  highway  down  this  wild  pass  is  marked  by  a  slender  line  througli  the 
forest,  and  the  Willey  House  is  a  mere  dot  on  its  ruin-swei)t  lowlands. 
Bayard  Taylor  says  of  this  view,  "As  a  simple  iiicture  of  a  mountain- 
pas!),  seen  from  above,  it  cannot  be  surj)assed  in  all  Switzerland."  Look- 
ing off  to  the  N.  E.,  the  great  peaks  of  the  Mt.  Washington  group  are 
seen,  with  Clinton  first  and  nearest,  and  Jackson  on  the  iijjper  end  ol"  Jit. 
Webster.  *'  And  let  us  again  advise  visitors  to  ascend  Mt.  Willard,  if 
possible,  late  in  the  afternoon.  They  will  then  see  one  long  wall  of  the 
Notch  in  shadow,  and  can  watch  it  move  slowly  up  the  curves  of  the 
opposite  .side,  displacing  the  yellow  splendor,  while  the  dim  green  dome 
of  Washington  is  gilded  by  the  .sinkuig  sun  '  with  heavenly  alchemy.'  " 
(Starr  King.) 

The  Flunie  r  ■ '  the  Silver  Cascade  are  visited  by  passing  through  the 
narrow  and  ragged-walled  Gate  of  the  Notch,  and  a))Out  ^  M,  from  the 
hotel  turning  into  the  forest  to  the  1.  by  a  little  brook.  A  series  of  long 
cascade;:  lies  along  the  slope  above,  and  near  the  road  is  a  deep  and  nar- 
row cleft  in  the  rock,  through  which  the  waters  tlov/.  A  long  scramble 
over  rocky  ledgt^s  and  up  the  course  of  the  laughing  water  leads  to  the 
base  of  the  *  Silver  Cascade,  the  finest  fall  on  the  ^^^  of  the  mts.  The 
brook  falls  80t)  ft.  within  a  mile,  and  after  a  heavy  rain  exhibits  a  mag- 
nificent effect.  Near  the  bridge  it  flows  through  a  narrow  flume,  and  soon 
enters  the  Saco. 

The  *  Sylvan  Clade  Cataract  is  6  -  7  M.  from  the  hotel,  and  is  gained 
by  following  np  Avalanche  Brook  (the  second  which  the  road  crosses  S. 
of  the  Willey  IIou.se),  About  2  M.  from  the  rcnid,  in  a  granite -walled 
ravine,  the  brook  fails  25-30  ft.  in  4  leaps,  and  then  forms  a  cascade  150 
ft.  long,  slipping  over  inclintd  ledges  of  granite  into  a  deep  pool  ])elow. 
About  1  M.  higher  is  the  SjjarkUng  Cascade.  These  falls  were  discovered 
in  1858. 

Gibbs's  Falls  are  near  the  hotel,  and  are  found  by  following  up  the 
aquetluct  from  the  stables,  and  t'aen  the  brook  to  which  it  leads.  10-15 
minutes'  walk  up  stream  brings  one  to  a  pretty  fall  of  about  30  ft,,  with 
pleasing  forest  accessories, 

Beecher's  Falls  are  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Lincoln,  to  the  r,  of  the  hotel, 
and  are  gained  by  a  good  forest-path,  Tlie  Falls  extend  for  a  long  dis- 
tance up  the  brook,  aiid  from  the  uppermost  of  them  a  fine  view  of  Mt, 
Washington  is  disclosed,  Tlie  DeviVs  Den  is  a  dark  cjivern  seen  from  thu 
Notch  road,  near  the  summit  of  Mt,  Willard,  Pulpit  Rock  is  on  the  r, 
of  the  road,  near  the  Gate  of  the  Notch,  and  several  rock-profiles  have 
been  seen  on  the  adjacent  cliffs. 


^1 


IS  i 

of 


I      !, 


'  A 


GORIIAM. 


Iloutc  33.     233 


nic  mt. 
running 
je  vista. 
lUgh  the 
)\vl:in(ls. 
ountaiu- 
Look- 
[•onp  arc 
(I  or  Mt. 
lllavd,  if 
U  of  the 
■s  of  the 
sen  dome 
;lieniy."' 

ongh  the 
from  the 
b  of  long 
)  and  nar- 
scranible 
ids  to  the 
nts.  The 
ts  a  niag- 
,  and  soon 

is  gained 
crosses  S. 
ite-waUed 
iscade  150 
?ol  helow. 
discovered 

ng  xip  the 
10-15 
0  ft.,  with 

the  liotel, 
long  dis- 

ew  of  IMt. 

xi  from  tha 
on  the  r. 

otiles  have 


Stages  from  the  >.'rawford  House  to  Bethlehem,  $2.50;  to  N.  Conw.iy,  83.50; 
to  the  moontain-railway,  !!^2.50  ;  and  to  the  Gh'ii  House,  $5.00.  Tlie  h.tter  n^iitt* 
runs  to  Barthtt  on  the  road  to  N.  Conway,  and  at  tliat  jiuiiit  enters  the  roatl  Iroui 
N.  Conway  to  tlie  Ghni  House.  Fare  to  Boston,  by  stage  to  N.  Conway  and  rail- 
road to  Boston,  §8.50. 

The  Crawford  House  to  the  Profile  House. 

Daily  stages  in  26^  M.  Fare,  .§  4.00.  After  leaving  the  hotel,  tlie  road 
entei-s  a  dense  forest,  where  it  is  "  Uiore  pleasantly  bordered  with  foliage 
than  any  other  among  the  hills."  On  leaving  this  forest,  a  broad  upland 
]>hiin  is  entered,  and  the  stage  ai)proaclies  the  great  new  hotel  on  the 
GianVs  Grave. 

The  new  *  Fabyan  Hcise  is  5  M.  N.  of  the  Notch,  and  ac(>onrr.io- 
dates  500  guests.  It  was  built  in  1872,  and  is  4  stories  high,  with  a 
frontage  of  330  ft.  This  imi)osing  structure  is  built  on  tlie  Giant's  Grave, 
a  tall  mound  near  the  Ammonoosuc  River.  According  to  tradition,  an 
Indian  once  stood  here  at  night,  and  swinging  a  torch  lit  from  a  lightning- 
struck  tree,  cried,  "  No  i)ale-face  shall  take  deep  root  here  ;  this  the 
Great  Spint  whispered  in  my  ear."  A  tavern  was  opened  here  about 
1803,  and  in  1819  it  was  l)urnt,  while  the  same  fat'3  befell  another  erected 
on  its  site,  and  Fabyan's  large  hotel,  at  the  foot  of  the  mound,  was  also 
burnt.  Tlie  new  hotel  is  larger,  stronger,  and  better  ])rotected  than  its 
predecessors,  and  will  probably  remain,  Ethan  Allen  Crawford,  "  Ethan 
of  the  Hills,"  a  gigantic  hunter  and  guide,  lived  on  the  Giant's  Grave 
many  years  ago,  and  waged  war  on  the  wolves,  wild-cats,  bears,  sables, 
and  otters  that  dwelt  among  the  surrounding  1  ills  ami  brooks. 

The  view  from  tliit^  point  is  very  line,  and  embraces  all  the  presi<lential 
peaks  save  one,  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  being  7.^  M.  distant  in  an 
air-line.  The  other  summits  stretch  toward  th.e  hotel  in  a  long  and  rugged 
chain.  From  this  point  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  by  rail  is  easily 
made.  The  Upper  Ammonoosuc  Falls  are  3  -  4  M.  from  the  hotel,  by  the 
road  to  Marshfield,  and  exhibit  a  beautiful  scene,  where  white  waters 
dash  down  between  gray  granite  walls,  and  the  vast  nits,  tower  beyond. 
The  Lower  Ammonoosuc  Falls  are  somewh-?t  more  than  1  M.  distant,  on 
the  Bethlehem  road.  The  river  descends  here  \\.  full  stream  over  30  ft. 
of  step-like  ledges,  but  the  natural  beauty  of  the  scene  has  been  marred 
by  the  intrusion  of  a  large  lumocr-mill. 

The  White  Mt.  Ilinise  (.$2.50  a  day)  is  an  olil  and  well-famed  hotel  at 
the  junction  of  the  Cherry  Mt.  and  Bethlehem  roads,  less  than  1  M.  N. 
W.  of  the  great  Fabyan  House.  Tlie  vicinity  abounds  in  pleasant  walks, 
especially  those  along  the  Ammonoosuc,  while  the  sunset  views  from  the 
hills  are  of  famed  attractiveness. 

Tlie  *  Twin  Mt.  House  is  5  M.  westward  from  the  Fabyan  House,  and 
is  a  favorite  new  ho^el,  under  the  care  of  the  Messrs.  BaiTon,  proprietors 
of  the  White  Ri\er  Jiuiction  and  Crawford   Houses.      It  is  pleasantly 


r 


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II 


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III; 


234    Rouie33. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


situated  on  the  lieiglits  al.'ovc  the  Ammonoos.ic  River,  and  looks  across 
tlic  valU'y  to  the  bold  peaks  of  Twin  Mt.  The  l)ran('h  railroad  which 
leaves  the  B.,  C,  &  M.  K.  R,  \Route  30)  at  Wing  Road,  has  its  present 
terminus  at  this  hotel  (it  is  to  be  extended,  eventually,  to  the  Animonoo- 
suc  station  of  the  Mt.  Washington  Railway).  The  Twin  Mt.  House  is  9 
M.  from  the  C'rawford  House  ;  10  M,  from  the  mt.  railway;  11  M.  from 
the  Waumbck  House  ;  and  17  M.  from  the  Prolile  House.  Stages  run  to 
all  these  points,  except  die  Waumbek  House. 

Beyond  the  Twin  Mt.  House  the  road  follows  the  Ammonoosuc  River, 
and  in  about  5  M.  ascends  the  rolling  ridges  of  Bethlehem,  from  which 
fine  prospects  of  the  loltier  mts.  are  given.  Between  Bethlehem  station 
(on  the  l)ranch  track)  and  the  village,  the  stage  passes  the  neat  little 
Maplcwood  Hotel  (§  3.00  a  day,  $  14.00  a  week).  Bethlehem  (*  Sinclair 
House,  and  several  large  boarding-houses)  is  a  pretty  higldand  village, 
which  connnands,  down  the  Ammonoosuc  valley,  one  of  the  finest  distant 
views  of  the  White  Mts.  Tliis  toM-n  was  settled  in  1790,  and  the  first 
comers  suffered  great  hardships,  being  obliged  for  months  to  subsist  on 
herbs  and  roots  from  the  forests  and  fields.  Bethlehem  is  5  M.  from 
Littleton ;  17  M.  from  the  White  Mt.  Notch  ;  10  M.  from  the  Profile 
House  ;  and  22}?  M.  from  Mt.  Washington. 

Beyond  Bethleliem,  the  road  (a  very  bad  one)  ascends  a  long  hill,  afford- 
ing fine  retrospects,  and  when  its  summit  is  gained  the  great  *Franconia 
Range  is  seen  in  front.  A  deep  valley  is  now  crossed,  the  new  Lofayetfc 
House  is  passed  (about  5  M.  from  Bethlehem),  and  after  a  long  ascent  the 
stage  reaches  the  Ptofde  House  (see  Route  34). 

Mount  Washington. 

Travellers  who  design  to  asccinl  this  mt.  should  be  careful  to  carry  sufTicicnt 
warm  clothing  (shawls,  ovorcoals,  «&f.),  for  Mie  air  on  the  summit  is  often  ex- 
tremely cold,  even  in  August.  Daniel  Webster  said  here.  "Mt.  Washington,  I 
have  conic  a  long  distance,  have  toiled  hard  to  arrive  at  your  summit,  and  now 
you  seem  to  give  me  a  cold  reception."  There  are  many  who  will  echo  these 
words.  If  the  ascent  from  the  Crawford  House  or  from  Randolph  Hill  is  under- 
taken, a  reliable  guide  must  bo  secured,  ami  an  early  start  sliould  be  niade.  The 
view  IVom  the  summit  cannot  be  conlidcntly  counted  U])on,  sinrc  the  mt.  is  often 
enveloped  in  suddenly  rising  fogs,  and  the  days  when  the  remote  points  of  view 
are  visible  are  very  few.  A  powerful  field-glass  will  be  iound  of  material  assist- 
ance. 

The  older  hotels  (the  Summit  and  thoTip-Toj)  Houses)  still  remain  on  the  narrow 
crest,  and  the  railway  t-ompany  has  ivcently  ereeted  a  new  hotel  of  considerable 
capacity  and  with  good  acconnnoilations. 

The  ascent  bji  rdihraii.  The  terminal  station  on  the  plain  is  at  Ammonoosuc 
station  (small  liotel),  to  whirh  morning  an<l  afternoon  stages  run  from  the  Craw- 
lord  House  (10  M.  ;  fare,  8*2.50,  there  and  back,  ^4.00)  ;  from  the  Twin  Mt.  House 
(U  M.  ;  Ian',  !?  "2.50,  there  and  baek,  .S4.00);  and  from  the  new  Fabyan  House 
(6-0  M-).  From  the  opening  of  the  seas(m  until  July  2oth,  trains  leave  Anuno- 
noosue  at  l(t.:<0  a.  5i.,  returning  at  2  p.  m.  From  July  20th,  until  the  elose  of 
the  season,  an  additional  train  is  put  on,  leaving  at  5.H(t  P.  M..  and  returning  at  8 
the  following  morning  (time-talile  of  1872).  The  fare  is  §3.00  for  the  ascent  or 
descent,  and  s4.00  for  both.     'J'riuiks  must  bo  paid  for  as  freight. 


,1 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


Route  ;ii.    235 


across 
.  wliich 
present 
inonoo- 
ise  is  9 
VI.  from 
i  run  to 

[)  River, 
n  ^vllich 
L  station 
;at  little 
Sinclair 

village, 
t  distant 
the  first 
\l)sist  on 

M.  from 
le  Profile 

11,  aflford- 
ranconia 

Lofnyette 
scent  the 


sufTicient 
(ilten  ex- 
tliingtoii,  I 
I,  and  nov/ 
icho  tliesn 
is  under- 
liado.  Tl,e 
]t.  is  oftt'ti 

Its   <>f  Vk'NV 

•iid  ussist- 

heiian-ew 
tusiderablc 

liiuonoosuc 
Itlie  Craw- 
iMt.  House 
j-an  House 
jve  Animo- 

liniiiij;  at  S 
ascent  or 


This  railway  was  built  in  1866-9,  on  tlu'  plans  of  Sylvester  Mnrsh, 
w)io  has  since  constructed  a  similar  load  up  Mount  Rhij^'i,  l)y  the  Lake  of 
Lucerne.  Animonoosuc  Station  is  2,668  ft.  above  tlie  .sea,  and  the  track 
ascends  3,625  ft.  in  3  M.,  witli  an  average  grade  of  1  ft.  in  4.^„  and  a 
maximum  gra<le  of  1  ft.  in  2%  or  1  *>80  ft.  to  the  M.  Tlie  cliief  peculiarity 
of  the  track  is  a  heavy  notched  iron  centre-rail,  into  which  i)hiys  a  centre 
cog-wheel  on  the;  locomotive.  The  steam-power  is  not  used  during  the 
descent,  hut  tlie  powerful  atmosi)lieric  l)rakes  regulate  the  spee<l  of  tli(! 
train.  The  cars  are  very  comfortable,  and  the  ascent  is  made  in  00 
minutes,  during  which  time  it  is  pleasant  to  think  tliat,  though  these 
trains  have  been  running  for  5  years,  not  a  single  i>assenger  has  been 
injured.  As  the  train  slowly  ascends  over  the  trestles,  pushed  by  the 
grotesque  little  engine,  the  retrospect  becomes  more  and  more  beautiful, 
and  a  profound  and  gloomy  chasm  is  passed  on  the  r.  The  ridge  between 
Clay  and  Washington  is  now  attained,  and  an  immense  mt.  amphitheatre 
is  pa.s.sed  on  the  1.,  soon  after  which  the  trahi  crawls  up  Jacob's  Ladder, 
and  stops  at  the  new  station  and  hotel  on  the  sununit  of  Mt.  Washington. 

The.  aacenf  from  the  Ghn  House.  Mountain  carria^ios  leave  the  Olcn  IIouso 
morning  and  afteninon  fortlio  suiniuit,  wliich  is  S  M.  tlistaut.  The  fare  (inchidiiig 
tiills)  is  ■'i^S.OO,  and  thi  tinii^  of  asc(<iit  ."5  lirs.,  while  the  desci'ut  is  made  in  U  lirs. 
Tlie  road  (built  ]8;>5-  >\l)  is  a  noble  piece  of  en^'incering,  winding  on  galleries  and 
long  curves,  with  an  average  grade  of  12  ft.  in  100. 

Most  of  the  route  to  the  Ledge  (4  M.  uj))  is  enclosed  by  forests,  but 
beyond  this  point  the  road  passes  along  the  verge  of  the  profound  hollow 
called  the  Great  Gulf.  From  this  })oint  the  *  view  is  superb,  embracing 
the  Peabody  Glen,  with  the  hotel  lying  like  a  snow-Hake  at  the  base  of 
the  heavy,  green  mass  of  Carter  Mt.  "  Yet  the  glory  of  the  Wew  is,  after 
all,  the  four  highest  comi)anion  mts.  of  the  range.  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams 
and  Madison,  that  show  themselves  in  a  bending  line  beyond  the  tremeii 
dous  gorge,  and  are  visible  from  their  roots  to  their  summits."  With  one 
exception  "  there  is  no  such  view  to  be  had,  cast  of  tlie  Mississipjii,  of 
mountain  architecture  and  sublimity."  The  road  now  passes  along  the 
verge  of  the  Great  Gulf,  with  the  lofty  gray  peaks  on  the  r.,  winds  and 
twists  over  dreary  slopes  covered  with  the  skeletons  of  dead  trees  and 
the  flora  of  Labrador,  surmounts  shoulder  after  shoulder  of  the  storm- 
eaten  mt.,  clind)s  the  sharp,  steep,  supreme  cone,  and  then  the  panting 
horses  stop  "  on  the  main-top  of  New  England.' 

The  ascent  from  the  Cairford  House.  The  old  bridle-path  (9  M.  long) 
offers  peculiar  attractions,  as  passing  over  several  noble  summits,  and  horses 
may  be  procured  at  the  hotel.  The  ascent  should  never  be  made  without 
a  guide,  since  sudden  storms  or  the  descending  of  fog-banks  miglit  cause  the 
traveller  to  lose  his  way  and  become  fatally  confused  among  the  ravines. 

Upon  leaving  the  hotel  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Clinton  is  commenceil,  and 
after  passing  over  a  rude  forest-path  for  nearly  3  M,  the  mossy  summit  is 


.11 


23(5     Route  33. 


I    I 


in* 


>  ;i 


I    ! 


I' 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


reached  (4,200  ft.  above  the  sea).  A  great  expanse  of  blue  peaks  Is  seen 
from  tliis  point,  with  briglit  lakes  on  the  S.  E.,  and  Kiarsarge,  "the 
queenly  mt.,"  lifting  its  pyramidal  rone  in  the  same  direction.  The  i)ath 
now  descends  into  a  dense  forest,  crosses  two  or  three  bridged  ravines,  and 
passes  around  the  S.  side  of  the  dome-like  peak  of  Mt.  Pleasant.  A 
path  diverges  to  the  summit  (4,800  ft.  high),  whence  the  old  and  disused 
Fabyan  trail  leads  down  to  the  An)monoosuc  valley.  The  round  and 
grassy  sunmiit  of  Pleasant  overlooks  the  whole  extent  of  the  valley.  The 
tracks  of  formi<lable  slides  are  seen  as  the  path  descends  to  another 
plateau,  and,  passing  Red  Pond,  claml)ers  up  Mt.  Franklin.  The  summit 
(4,900  ft.  high)  is  near  the  path,  and  commands  a  vast  prosj)ect  terminated 
by  Ghocorua,  almost  due  S.  and  20  M.  distant.  Between  Franklin  and 
Monroe  the  path  passes  over  a  narrow  ridge  which  is  the  water-shed  of 
the  Connecticut  and  Saco  Rivers.  There  are  one  or  two  dangerous  ])la(;es 
on  this  thin  and  lofty  escarpment,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  deep  and  tei-rilde 
chasm  of  Oakes'  Gulf,  while  the  Ammonoosuc  valley  stretches  away  on 
the  other  hand.  This  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  points  of  vicAv  in  the 
mts.  Monroe  is  now  roimded  on  the  S.  side,  and  the  rough  scramble  to  its 
E.  peak  (r>,300  ft.  high)  is  rewarded  by  another  vast  prospect.  Mt. 
Washington  now  looms  ahead  as  the  path  descends  to  the  plateau  on 
which  are  the  Lake  of  the  Clouds  and  Star  Lake,  two  deep  and  crystalline 
tarns  where  the  Ammonoosuc  is  l)orn.  1^  M.  from  the  lakes  is  i\w  blealc 
crest  of  Washington,  and  from  tlie  E.  verge  of  the  jilateau  is  afforded  a 
remarkable  view  down  Tnckerman's  Ravine.  There  remains  a  sharp 
ascent  among  the  rocks  on  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  peak,  with  a  rise  ecpial  to 
1,200  ft.  perpendiciilar,  and  then  the  summit  is  gained. 

The  ascent  from  Randolph  Hill  is  only  jiracticable  for  strong  and 
practised  pedestrians,  accomi)anied  by  reliable  guides.  A  few  such  parties 
have  accomplished  this  feat  with  very  satisfactory  results.  Guides  may 
be  heard  of  at  the  Gorham  hotels,  —  Calha:ne  is  one  of  the  best,  —  and 
arrangements  should  be  made  to  encamp  over  night  on  the  ridge,  although 
the  ascent  may  be  crowded  into  a  single  day.  Riding  to  Randolph  Hill 
at  early  moriiing,  Mt.  Madison  is  ascended  in  4-5  hrs.  by  the  old  Gor- 
don path,  leading  along  a  brook  which  flows  into  Moose  River.  The 
ravine  tlu'ough  which  this  brook  flows  is  full  of  gloomy  grandeur,  and  is 
surrounded  by  stupendous  walls  of  rock.  The  path  leads  out  on  the 
ridge  between  Adams  and  Madison.  The  latter  is  rarely  visited  on  this 
excursion,  since  it  lies  off"  the  route,  but  the  noble  pyramid  of  Adams  is 
crossed,  opening  a  striking  *  view.  On  the  N.  the  mts.  of  Kilkenny, 
Randolph,  and  Gorham,  with  the  long  valley  of  the  Androscoggin,  and  in 
the  remote  distance  the  lakes  of  Undxagog  and  Rangeley,  The  Glen  and 
the  green  wall  of  Carter  Mt.  are  on  the  E.,  while  the  vast  dome  of  Wash- 
ington is  uplifted  in  the  S.     Crossing  now  the  bending  ridge  to  Mt.  Jeffer- 


I 


I 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


Route  33.     237 


IS  seen 
L',  'Mlie 
'lie  patli 
lies,  ami 
ant.  A 
I  disused 
uiid  and 
^y.     Tho 

an nth or       • 
!  summit 
rminated 
klin   and 
•-shed  of 
us  i»hiees 
I  terrible 

away  on 
iew  in  tho 
iibleto  its 
3Ct.  Mt. 
lateau  on 
n-ystalline 
tlic.  bleak 
ad'orded  a 
a  sharp 

e  ecpial  to 

[trong  and 
icli  parties 
aides  may 
st,  —  and 
L  although 
(lolph  Hill 
old  Gor- 
iver.     The 
^ur,  and  is 
)ut  on  the 
;d  on  this 
Adams  is 
I  Kilkenny, 
:in,  and  in 
Glen  and 
of  Wash- 
Vlt.  Jeffer- 


son, a  continual  front  view  of  Washington  is  afforded,  and  after  passing 
over  Jefferson  the  Great  Gulf  is  seen  bending  around  on  the  1.  Mt.  C^lay 
is  now  aseended,  and,  after  a  short  descent,  the  long  slope  of  Washington 
is  elimbcd  to  the  summit. 

The  Fabyan  path  from  the  Giant's  Grave  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Pleasant, 
and  thence  over  Franklin  and  Monroe  to  Mt.  Washington,  is  now  dis- 
used ;  while  the  old  bridle-i)ath  from  the  W,  slope,  and  the  Davis  path 
from  the  Mt.  Crawford  House,  are  but  rarely  traversed.  The  railway 
and  carriage  routes  are  the  favorites,  the  first  being  easier  and  cheaper, 
and  the  last  being  richer  in  scenery. 

The  *  *  view  from  Mt.Washington  is  the  most  grand  and  extensive  in 
New  England.  In  the  S.  is  the  Giant  Stairs  Mt.  and  the  round  top  of 
Mt.  Crawford,  with  Chocorua  farther  away,  and  Ossijjce  near  the  gleam 
of  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  .35  M.  distant,  S.  of  W.  is  Mt.  Carrigain,  and 
tlie  noble  peaks  of  the  Sandwich  Range  are  beyond,  while  100  M.  away 
is  Monadnock,  '^  a  filmy  angle  in  the  base  of  the  sky."  To  the  S.  W.  the 
l)eaks  of  Monroe,  Franklin,  Pleasant,  and  Clinton  stretch  off  in  a  straight 
line,  while  the  dark  crests  of  Franconia  fdl  the  W.,  overlo(<ked  by  the 
bald  cone  of  Lafayette.  Across  the  Connecticut  are  remote  blue  sum- 
mits of  the  Green  Mts.,  with  Mt.  Mansfield  and  the  Camel's  Hump,  70 
M.  away.  Stretching  toward  the  N.  W.,  only  a  few  miles  distant,  are 
Cherry  Mt.,  Mt.  Starr  King,  and  the  hills  of  Kilkenny,  over  which  tlie 
graceful  Percy  Peaks  (Stiatford)  are  s^en,  "  as  near  alike  in  size  and 
shape  as  two  Dromios."  Clay,  Jf  ff<;:on,  Adams,  and  Madison  loom 
across  the  Great  Gulf  in  the  N.  and  N.  W.  Glimi)ses  of  the  Androscoggin 
are  next  obtained,  and  35-50  M.  W.  of  N.  Lake  Umbagog  and  the 
Kangeley  Lakes  are  seen,  with  the  dim  Canadian  highlands  far  to  the  N. 
A  vast  area  of  the  State  of  Maine  is  outspread  in  the  E.,  and  it  is  claimed 
that  Mt.  Katahdin  may  be  seen  "  looming  out  of  the  central  wilderness 
of  Maine,  cutting  the  yellowish  horizon  with  the  hue  of  Damascus  steel." 
But  Katahdin  is  150  M.  distant.  Mts.  Hayes,  Moriah,  and  Carter  are 
seen  more  surely  in  the  N.  E.  The  lofty  hills  over  Chatham  fdl  the 
nearer  E.,  and  the  eye  follows  down  Pinkham  Notch  to  N.  Conway  on  its 
fair  meadows,  with  Kiarsarge  impending  above.  Beyond  are  seen  Love- 
well's  Pond,  by  Fryebnrg,  and  the  bright  Sebago  Lake,  while  the  ocean  is 
sometimes  visible  in  the  remote  S.  E.,  merging  with  the  weary  horizon. 

*  Tnokerman's  Ravine  is  usually  visited  from  the  summit,  and  is  1^ 
M.  distant  by  a  difficult  path  (guide  necessary).  It  is  also  visited  from 
the  Glen  House  (5  M.  away),  and  by  a  path  which  leaves  ihe  mt.  road  2 
M.  from  the  Glen,  and  runs  for  2i  M,  through  the  forest  to  Hermit  Lake, 
This  is  in  the  vast  Mountain  Coliseum  (so  called),  whose  lofty  curving 
Itrecipice-walls  reach  an  altitude  of  1,000  ft.  or  more.  Immense  masses 
of  s'.iow  are  piled  \\\^  here,  and  usually  remain  until  August.     The  Crystal 


li 


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f 


238    /iow^e  ^.^.        THE  FUANCONIA  MOUNTAINS. 

Stream  flows  down  under  tliis  incipient  ^'lacier  and  cuts  a  lonj:,'  arcli  under 
llie  liiirdencfl  snow,  tlirou},di  wliicli  one  can  walk  for  hundreds  of  feet. 
The  cliffs  back  of  the  ravine  are  striped,  after  rains,  with  falling  waters, 
called  the  *'  Fall  of  a  Thousand  Streams."  After  exploring  this  wonder- 
ful abyss,  parties  sometimes  pass  to  the  Olen  House  by  following  the 
Crystal  Stream,  with  its  many  cascades,  to  the  N.  Conway  road. 

34.  The  Franccnia  Mountains  and  Femigewasset  Valley. 

I'rom  Xfw  York  to  Fninamui  )»y  If.irUord,  SjiriuKlifM,  Wells  Uiver,  ami  Little- 
ton ;  l»y  Albiiiiy,  iiiitland,  IJolldWS  I'alls,  and  LitiUtoii  ;  liy  .Siniiij^litlil,  Na^lllla, 
and  (.'oncnrd  ;  or  by  boat  to  New  London,  and  tlieiitu  to  Hrattlcboro,  Wills  Ilivcr, 
and  JJtth'ton.  The  connections  are  I'reiiuently  <lianj,'ed,  and  the  tourist  should 
get  a  late  tinui-tijble  and  railway-guide  before  choosing  his  route. 

From  IloaUm  to  Franconia  by  Route  :{;!  (stages  through  the  nits.)  uiid  Route  31 
to  N.  Conway  ;  or.by  Route  30  to  Plymouth  (123  M.),  and  thence  by  stage  ('il)  M.) 
to  the  rroflle  House  ;  by  Route  30  to  Littleton  (18;J  M.),  and  thence  by  stag*'  (II 
M.)ti)  the  Profile  Hou.se.  By  either  of  tlie  latter  routes,  tourists  may  leave  Ros- 
ton  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrive  at  tin;  rrolile  Hous«!  early  in  the  evening.  By  Route  31 
to  Wolfboro,  or  by  Route  38  to  Alton  Ray,  and  thence  traversing  Lake  Winnepe- 
saukce  by  steamer,  the  tourist  can  take  Route  30  (to  Plyn:outh  or  Littleton)  at 
Weirs. 

iJaiiii  xtayes  leave  for  the  Prolile  House,  from  Littleton  (11  M.  N.  ;  fare,  §2.00) ; 
from  th.i  Orawlbrd  House  (26^  M.  E.  ;  fare,  $4.00) ;  and  from  Plymouth  (20  M.  S.  ; 
fare,  §4.00). 

The  *  Profile  House  (1,974  ft.  above  the  sea)  accommodates  4-500 
guests,  and  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  mt.  hotels.  Its  corridors  are  crowded 
during  the  summer  with  visitors  from  the  coast-cities,  and  its  dining-hall 
is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  New  England.  This  hotel  is  open  from  June  1st 
until  the  middle  of  October;  its  terms  are  §4.50  a  day,  with  reductions 
for  a  long  sojourn. 

The  *  Franconia  Notch  is  about  5  M.  long,  and  less  than  ^  M.  wide, 
and  is  on  the  western  verge  of  the  Franconia  Range  jiroper.  "The 
narrow  district  thus  enclosed  contains  more  objects  of  interest  to  the 
mass  of  travellers  than  any  other  region  of  equal  extent  within  the  com- 
pass of  the  usual  White  Mt.  tour.  In  the  way  of  rock-sculpture  and 
waterfalls  it  is  a  huge  museum  of  curiosities."  (Stakr  King.)  "Tlie 
scenery  of  Franconia  is  more  fantastic  and  beautiful  than  Dalecarlia  or 
Norsland."    (Fri;drika  Brkmer.) 

*Echo  Lake  is  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  hotel,  on  the  r.  of  the  Little- 
ton road,  and  is  a  calm,  deep,  and  lovely  sheet  of  transparent  water, 
encircled  by  rare  scenery.  During  the  day  it  reflects  vividly  the  sur- 
rounding objects,  but  the  later  hours  of  the  afternoon  are  the  pleasantest, 
wlien  the  visitor  can  be  transported  over  the  quiet  waters  and  see  the 
forest-shores  and  mts.  in  the  flush  of  evening.  Remarkable  echoes  are 
awakened  here  by  the  bugle,  voice,  or  pistol-shots.  "  Franconia  is  more 
fortunate  in  its  little  tani  that  is  rimmed  by  the  undisturbed  wilderness, 
and  watched  l)v  the  grizzled 


l)e;i 


ay* 


Face  from  which  it  has  gained  so  much  celebritv, 


THE  FRANCONIA   MOUNTAINS. 


Route  J.;. 


239 


1  under 
of  feet, 
waters, 
.vonder- 
iiig  the 


alley. 

(I    IJttlO- 

lis  Hiv.r. 
it  sliuukl 

Route  31 
;e(2y  M.) 

8ta-('(ll 
'iive  Hos- 

Uoiite  ;u 
Wiiiiiepe- 
tleton)  at 

0,82.00); 
^20  M.  S.  ; 


s  4-500 
crowded 

ning-liall 

June  1st 

luetions 

M.  wide, 
"The 

,t  to  the 
he  com- 
ure  and 
1)     ''Tlie 
arlia  or 

Ic  Little- 
|t  water, 
J  the  sur- 
|asantest, 
see  the 
dices  are 
is  more 
lldcrness, 
\\\  Stono 


Bald  Mt.  is  ascended  by  a  neglected  caniage-road,  which  diverges  to 
tlie  r.  from  the  road  about  1  M.  N.  of  the  liotd.  The  view  from  the 
summit  is  pleasing,  especially  just  before  sunset,  when,  besides  the  noble 
hills  to  the  N.  and  the  huge,  conical  Haystack  Mt.  to  the  R,  a  fine  south- 
erly prospect  is  given,  embracing  the  narrow  notch,  witli  Lafayette  tower- 
ing on  the  1.  and  Mt.  Profile  on  the  r.  Echo  Lake  is  seen  in  the  nearer 
foreground. 

Profile  Mt.,  or  Mt.  Cannon,  is  ascended  by  a  steep  foot-path  S.  of  the 
hotel,  in  2-3  hrs.  The  *  view  is  of  groat  beauty,  including  the  Bethle- 
hem heights  on  the  N.,  with  Haystack,  Lafayette,  and  the  Mt.  Washing- 
ton group  on  the  E.  and  N.  E.  On  the  S.,  between  Mts.  Pemigewasset 
find  Liberty,  stretclies  far  into  the  distanoe  the  fair  and  fruitful  valley  of 
the  Pemigewasset  lUver.  On  the  summit  is  a  rock  which  is  supposed  to 
resemble  a  cannon,  and  visitors  often  descend  thence  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  ledges  which  form  the  Profde.  On  the  slope  of  this  mt.  <and  leaehed 
by  following  the  aqueduct  into  the  woods  back  of  the  old  Lafayette 
House)  is  a  lively  brook  wliich  e.xhibits  some  fine  cascades  after  heavy 
rains.  Good  views  of  Echo  Lake  and  Eagle  Cliff,  with  the  highland  val- 
leys to  the  N.,  may  be  obtained  from  the  brookside. 

*  *The  Profile  is  best  seen  from  a  jioint  by  the  roadside  (marked  by  a 
guide-board)  a  few  rods  S.  of  the  hotel.  1,5(I0  ft.  above  the  road,  three 
enormous  masses  of  rock  project  from  the  side  of  the  mt.,  in  the  exact 
resemblance  of  the  profde  of  an  old  man's  face,  with  firndy  drawn  chin, 
lips  slightly  parted,  and  a  well  proportioned  noss  surmounted  by  a  mas- 
sive brow.  It  is  "  a  mountain  which  breaks  into  liuman  expression,  a 
piece  of  sculpture  older  than  the  Sphinx,  an  intimation  of  the  liuman 
countenance,  which  is  the  crown  of  all  beauty,  that  was  pushed  out  from 
the  coarse  strata  of  New  England  thousands  of  years  before  Adam. 
The  legend  of  "The  Great  Stone  Face,"  as  told  by  Hawthorne,  belongs 
to  this  place.  Directly  below  the  Profile  (which  is  GO  ft.  long)  and  near 
the  road,  is  the  crystal  tarn  called  Profile  Lake,  or  the  Old  Man's  Wash- 
bowl, a  secpiestered  and  beautiful  sheet  of  v.'ater,  from  whoso  l)osom  is 
obtained  a  pleasing  sunset  view  of  the  majestic  Eafjle  ClijJ.  This  is  the 
best  point  from  which  to  see  that  lofty  and  remarkable  cliff  (1,.'>00  ft. 
high)  which  projects  from  the  mt.  opposite  the  Profde  House.  Near 
Profde  Lake  is  the  Trout-house,  containing  many  tame  lu-ecding-trout. 

Mt.  Lafayette,  "  the  Duke  of  Western  Coos,"  is  5,200  ft.  high,  and  is 
ascended  by  a  bridle-path  diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  road,  midway  be- 
tween the  Profile  and  Flume  Houses  (2,^  M.  from  eacli)-  The  ]  a'Ji  is 
.steep and  arduous,  but  the  ascent  may  easily  be  accomplished  in  3-4  lirs., 
with  horses  and  guides  from  the  Profile  House.  After  a  long  ascent 
through  the  dense  forest  which  covers  tha  lower  slopes,  the  path  emerges 
(near  the  bright  Lake  of  the   Storm  King)  upon  a  bare  and  rugged  tract 


I 


1         •■ 

11  :; 


240    lloutvS^.        THE  FRANX'ONIA   MOUNTAINS. 

which  jvfTords  an  extensive  ofT-look.  The  ♦view  from  the  sunnnit  in 
bioiul  ami  ]»eautil'ul,  wKli  the  I'eiiii^ewasset  valley  as  its  most  pleasing 
feature,  stretching  S.  to  IMymouth  (20  M.  distant).  The  clustering 
rciuigewasset  Mts.  are  seen  in  the  8.  W. ;  "hut  the  lowlands  are  the 
glory  of  the  sjieotaclo  which  Lafayette  shove's  his  guests.  The  valleys  of 
the  Connecticut  and  Merrimac  are  spread  W.  and  S.  W.  and  S.  With 
what  pomp  of  color  are  theii'  growing  harvests  inlaid  upon  the  floor  of 
New  England!"  Mts,  Monadnock  (JH)M.)  and  Kearsarge  (over  50  M.) 
are  W.  of  S.,  while  certain  i)eaks  of  the  Green  Mts.  of  Vermont  are  in 
the  distant  W.  In  the  N.  W.  and  N,  are  the  bright  villages  of  Littleton 
and  Lancaster,  with  the  rural  districts  of  upjier  Coiis,  while  the  ProHle 
a  id  Echo  Lakes  are  close  below  in  the  glen  over  which  I'rofde  Mt.  towers. 
Tlie  Percy  Peaks  are  nearly  due  N.  beyond  the  Lunenbui-g  Hills,  and 
Haystack  Mt.  lifts  its  huge  mass  close  at  hand  in  the  N.  E.  E.  and  N. 
E.,  15-20  M.  distant,  is  the  great  piesidential  group,  with  Mt.  Wash- 
ington nobly  overlooking  the  rest. 

The  *  Flume  House  is  a  small,  but  new  and  well-conducted  hotel,  5  M. 
S.  of  (and  pertaining  to)  the  P'otile  House.  Mt.  Liberty  is  opposite  the 
liouse,  and  Mt.  Pemigewasset  is  behind  it,  while  the  rich  southern  valley 
is  seen  for  leagues  from  this  position.  The  last-named  mt.  is  often  as- 
cended for  a  few  hundred  ft.,  toward  the  sunset  hour,  when  "the  spurs 
and  hollows  of  Lafayette  and  his  associates  are  lighted  up  by  the  si)lendor 
that  pours  into  them  from  the  west."  About  2  M.  N.  of  the  Flume 
House  a  succession  of  pretty  cascades  may  be  found  by  ascending  the 
course  of  a  brook  which  crosses  the  road.  1  M.  N.  of  the  house,  by  the 
roadside,  is  the  Basin,  a  granite  bowl  GO  ft.  in  circumference  and  10  ft. 
deej),  tilled  Avith  clear  water.  "  The  best  way  to  enjoy  the  beauty  of  the 
Basin  is  to  ascend  to  the  liighest  of  the  cascades  that  slide  along  a  mile 
of  the  mountain  at  the  W.  Then  follow  down  by  their  pathways,  as 
they  make  the  rocks  now  wliite  with  foam,  now  glassy  with  thin,  smooth, 
transparent  sheets,  till  they  mingle  their  water  with  the  Pemigewasset  at 
the  foot,  and,  pouring  their  common  treasury  around  the  groove  worn  in 
the  rocky  roof,  fall  with  musical  splash  into  the  shadowed  reservoir  be- 
neath." 

The  Pool  is  gained  in  20  minutes  by  a  path  leading  into  the  forest  op- 
posite the  house.  It  is  a  basin  cut  in  the  solid  reck,  150  ft.  wide  and 
over  100  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  path,  with  40  ft.  depth  of  dark,  cold 
water.  Visitors  can  descend  to  the  level  of  the  water,  wliere  an  eccentric 
hermit  dwells  in  a  rude  boat.  A  rougli  jiath  leads  thence  to  the  Flume; 
but  if  there  are  ladies  in  the  party,  it  is  best  to  return  to  the  road. 

*  The  Flume  is  reached  by  a  road  diverging  to  the  1.  a  short  distance 
S.  of  the  hotel,  which  runs  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  cascade.  From  that 
point  a  path  ascends  by  the  smooth  ledges  over  which  the  cascades  glide 


tlie 


I        ' 


THE  PROFIhK   HOUSE  TO   PLYMOUTH.     Route  3 i.     241 


mil  ifl 

.stcnug 
ire  the 
leys  of 
With 
loor  of 
50  M.) 

are  iu 
jiltletou 
!  Prot'ile 

towers, 
ills,  iuul 
,  aii<l  N. 
t.  Wash- 

)tel,  5  M. 
osite  the 
!rn  valley 
often  as- 
the  si)urs 
3  splendor 
je  Flume 
tiding  the 
SB,  by  the 
md  10  ft. 
Lity  of  the 
|ig  a  mile 
nvays,  as 
,  smooth, 
iwasset  at 
e  worn  in 
lervoir  be- 

I forest  op- 
wide  and 
Idavk,  cold 
]\  eccentric 
lie  Flume; 

Dad. 

distance 

I'rom  that 

fades  gU'le 


musically  to  the  entrance  of  the  Flr'uo.  Al'tor  passing  tlu^  mis»>rahh'  hut 
which  stands  at  the  mouth  of  this  won<lorful  raviin',  the  full  power  of 
the  scene  is  felt.  A  substantial  plank-walk  has  heen  built  along  the 
course  of  the  stream,  which  it  often  crosses.  The  ravine  is  abmit  ♦JOG  ft. 
long,  and  its  iM-ecipitous  rock-walls  arc  (<0-7()  ft.  high.  The  walls  are 
about  20  ft.  ai)art  foi'  most  of  the  distance,  but  approach  each  other  more 
closely  near  the  upper  end,  where  the  gorge  is  narrowed  to  1(»  ft.  in 
width,  and  holds  suspended  a  huge  granite  houMer.  This  massive  rock 
seems  to  be  held  between  the  clitls  by  a  most  frail  tcinire,  and  is  "as  un- 
pleasant to  look  at,  if  the  nerves  ar(^  irresolute,  as  the  sword  of  Danioclos, 
and  yet  held  by  a  gras[)  out  of  which  it  will  not  slip  for  centuries."  By 
claiubering  along  the  musical  cascade  to  the  upper  end  of  tlie  ra\  ine,  one 
can  reach  the  edge  of  the  dill's  above  aTid  look  down  into  the  Flume. 

(ji'orgeanna  (or  llnrranl)  Falls  are  S.  W.  of  the  hotel,  and  are  reached 
by  a  forest-path  that  leaves  the  Plymouth  road  2  M.  S.  of  the  hotel  (guide 
at  the  farndio;;se).  After  a  long  ascent  which  follows  the  stream  tlirough 
the  forest,  the  falls  are  secui,  "  making  two  l('a[)s  of  80  ft.  each,  (jiio  im- 
mediately after  the  other,  whiiih,  as  we  climb  towards  them,  gleam  as  one 
splendid  line  of  light  through  the  trees  and  shrubbery  that  fringe  the 
lofty  cleft."  From  the  ledge  above  these  falls  is  gained  "the  stalwartest 
prospect  in  all  Franconia." 

The  Profile  Hoiise  to  Pb/mouth. 

(Stages  leave  early  in  the  morning.  Distance,  29  M.  ;  fare,  $  4.00). 
The  road  leads  through  the  narrow  glen  for  5  M.,  passes  the  Flume  House 
between  Mts.  Pemigewasset  and  Liberty,  and  tlien  descends  to  a  more 
-^pen  country.  The  front  view  is  line,  "  so  soft  and  delicate  are  the  gen- 
eral features  of  the  outlook  over  the  wiilening  Pemigewasset  valley,  so 
rich  the  gradation  of  the  lights  over  the  miles  of  gently  slo])ing  forest  that 
sweep  down  towards  Campton!"  4  M.  beyond  the  Flume  House  the 
rugged  town  of  Lincoln  is  left,  with  its  32,4.o6  acres  of  land  barely  sup- 
porting a  resident  population  of  71  persons.  Woodstock  is  now  traversed, 
with  Black,  Blue,  and  Cushman's  Mts.  on  the  W.,  and  Wa.iosha  on  the 
E.,  beyond  which  are  glimpses  of  the  peaks  toward  the  White  Mt.  Notch. 
This  town  has  8  or  10  boarding-houses,  whose  prices  range  from  $  7.00  to 
§10.00  a  week. 

Beyond  Woodstock  a  fine  *  retrospect  is  afforded,  where  "the  arrange- 
ment of  the  principal  Franconia  Mts.  in  half-se.x'agon  —  so  that  v/e  get  a 
strong  impression  of  their  mass,  and  yet  see  their  separate  steely  edges, 
gleaming  with  dilTerent  lights,  running  down  to  the  valley  — is  one  of 
the  rare  pictures  in  N.  H.  What  a  noble  combination,  —those  keen 
contours  of  the  Haystack  pyramids,  and  the  knotted  muscles  of  Mt. 
Lafayette  beyond  ! " 

11  P 


*^ 


:i 


242    Route  S4. 


WATEkVILLE. 


>' 


[I    \ 


•      i   . 

f 


« 


As  Tfitirnfon  (two  inns  and  several  l)n.inliii;/-Ii<>iiHe.s)  is  entered,  tlie 
river  exliiliits  hnculer  iiitcrvalfs,  which  hccoiiie  l;t'!iutiriil  in  Campton. 
Tlie  latter  vilhij^'e  lias  two  inns  and  many  suininer  boanling-htuiscs,  uml  is 
a  favorite  resor*  lor  artists,  on  aiaiount  oi'  its  ricli  ijiea<lows,  its  forests 
and  hills,  and  the  distant  nit.  views.  It  is  still  an  nnsettled  '[uestion 
whether  (^'anijiton  or  N.  Conway  is  the  most  Ixfautiful  of  tlie  nit.  vilhiges. 
Welch  Mt.  is  a  prominent  oltject  in  the  landscape;  the  Sandwich  Mts. 
an;  seen  on  the  K.  ;  and  Mt.  I'rospect  and  Livernioie  Falls  arc  in  the 
vicinity  (S.  E.  and  S. )  The  Devil's  Den  is  a  deep  cave  at  Canii)ton  Hol- 
low ;  the  Campton  Fall  is  near  the  villa^'e  ;  and  the  views  of  the  Fran- 
conia  llange  from  Dnrgin's  Hill,  and  of  the  broad  valley  from  the  School 
House  Hill,  are  nnich  admired.  Following  now  the  Pemigewas.Ket 
River,  with  Mt.  rros]»ect  on  the  E.,  the  stage  reaches  Plymouth,  (3  M.  S. 
of  Campton. 

Waterville  {('rcclci/s  Mmtntain  Iltmsr)  is  12  M.  N.  E.  of  Canii)ton, 
and  18  M.  from  I'lymouth,  by  a  roa<l  leading  up  the  Mad  River  valley. 
There  is  good  trout-tishing  in  this  rugged  town  (which  has  but  33  inhabi- 
tants), and  some  very  romantic  soenery.  Portions  of  the  Sandw»ol^  Range 
lie  in  Watervilh^,  forming  1»old  and  picturcs(pie  mt.  groups,  while  the 
lofty  peak  of  Osceola  (Ij'idO  tt.  high)  is  in  the  N.  E.  There  is  a  path  to 
tlu^  summit  of  Osceola,  and  the  view  thence  is  said  to  be  grand. 

On  the  S.  arc  tin;  jirinciiml  ix'aks  of  the  Sandwich  Ran^e,  Black  Mt.,  White 
Face,  and  IJalil  Knob,  witli  distant  views  of  Italics  .S<niaiii  and  Wiiint'iicsaukee, 
the  former  being  alxiiit  !S.  W.  l.ooUinj:  across  Uic  I'('niip'\va.ssct  valley  the  west- 
en\  hills  and  the  distant  Gre(!n  Mts.  are  seen.  In  the  N.  W.  are  the  Fianconia 
Mts.,  with  Lafayette's  conical  jx-ak  most  eonsiticuous.  Tlie  heavy  mass  of  Mt. 
Carrigain  is  dose  at  hand,  and  nearly  N.,  while  f;irtlier  are  the  ]K'Mks  around  tlie 
Notcli,  witli  Mt.  Wiisliiiigtoii  ami  the  ]iresidi'ntial  group  far  bcyc.nd.  N.  of  E. 
arc  Hear  and  Double  Head  Mts.,  over  J'inkham  Notch,  with  Mote  Mt.  hiding  N. 
Conway,  and  Kiarsarge  towering  beyond,  while  the  eye  follows  tlu^  Swift  River 
valley  for  18  M.  to  Conway.  Below  Conway,  and  nearly  40  iM.  distant,  is  Sebago 
Lake,  and  25  M.  beyond  the  ocean  may  be  seen  on  clear  days. 

The  Flume,  on  a  brook  l.].-2  M,  from  the  hotel,  with  Ilorton's  Cave 
an<l  tlie  falls  on  Cascade  Brook,  are  frequently  visited.  Adventurous 
parties  have  penetrated  the  forests  to  the  N.  E.  to  the  White  ]\It.  Notch 
i'oad,  while  a  pass  known  as  Greeley's  Gap  leads  by  a  rude  bridle-jiath  to 
Sandwich  (on  the  S.).  The  trail  to  tlie  Notch  (a  guide  .should  be  taken) 
leads  first  to  Greeley's  Pond,  under  Mt.  Osceola  (5  M.  from  the  hotel),  and 
then,  leaving  Mt.  Carrigain  on  the  1.,  ]iasses  through  the  forest  to  the  upper 
part  of  Sawyer's  River.  The  course  of  this  stream  is  followed  until  it 
reaches  the  Notch  road,  at  a  i^oint  about  midway  between  the  Upper 
Bartlett  and  Mt.  Crawford  Houses  (3  M.  from  each),  and  about  15  M.  from 
Greeley's. 


n\,  the 
apton. 

,  iiiiil  in 

lU'stion 
illiiges. 
ih  Mts. 
ill  the 
.11  llol- 
v;  Fran- 
!  School 
;ewas«('t 
G  M.  H. 

vnipton, 
!•  viilley. 
I  inhabi- 
V  Kaiige 
hile  the 
,  ijath  to 

t.,  White 
iicsiiiiki'e, 

[tllO  VVt'St- 

nicoiiia 
ss  (if  Mt. 

und  the 

N.  of  E. 

iiliiiK  N. 

11  Iliver 
is  Sehago 

US  Cave 

nturous 
Notch 

j.ath  to 
e  taken) 
ltd),  and 

le  upper 

until  ).t 
e  Upper 

M.  from 


■I 


DIXVILLE  NOTCH. 


Route  35.    243 


35.  The  Percy  Peaks,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Lake  Umbagog. 

'I'Mi;  slivtion  ami  villa^,'t'  of  Xiu-fliiiiuhnimii/  {W'Vry  PeiiU.s  Hotel; 
Mrlchcr  House)  is  10  M.  N.  of  r/incasf.-r.  and  Ml  M.  N.  of  Cnrhani.  It 
is  near  the  tonlliU'iMU'  of  t'lu;  I'ppcr  Aiiinioiioosui'  and  Coiuiectii'iit  Rivers, 
and  is  connoeted  with  tJuildhall,  the  shire-town  of  Kssex  C<junty,  Ver- 
mont, by  i  bridge  near  the  falls  in  the  latter  river.  Tlie  town  was  settled 
ill  17<)7,  and  foitilied  during  the  llevolution.  Moose,  Hellainy,  and  Cai»e 
Horn  Mts.  ant  in  the  vicinity,  and  from  this  jtoint  the  ascent  of  the  I'ercy 
(or  Stratford)  Teaks  is  usually  undertaken.  Passengers  lor  Dixville  ami 
the  Noj'th  go  from  Northunibeiland  by  the  (iriiid  'I'runk  Railway. 

The  line  passes  N.  along  the  Conn,  valley  with  the  Pen\v  Peaks  on  the 
r.,  stops  at  Stratford  llolltrw,  and  then  at  X.  Stratford  (Wilhiid  House; 
Anu'riean;  Percy),  whence  the  stage  usually  leaves  in  the  evening  for 
Colebrook,  13  M.  N.  E.  The  voa<l  follows  the  Conn.  Puver  closely,  cross- 
ing the  thinly  jiopulated  forest-town  of  Columbia,  and  then,  Hanking  the 
vast  mass  of  Monadnock  Mt.,  enters  the  pretty  village  of  Cofrhrook 
(Parsons  House,  accommodating  100  guests,  at  §  7  -IO.(H)  a  week;  Monad- 
nock House). 

This  town  was  named  in  linnnr  of  Sir  C!c(irj,'e  Coh'brook,  an  English  kni^lit,  to 
wlioiii  it  was  oriK'niiUy  Kniiitcil.  It  is  tlie  iKirtheni  sliire-towii  of  Cnii-  I'oimty, 
wliicli  has  (in  'irca  of  l,<,»6e  sciiian^  miles,  will:  a  |M)puiatioii  of  I'j.oSO,  and  a  valiia- 
tiitii  of  i!JI4,<.t4(J,'.tIO.  Although  New  Kngland  is  the  stnumhold  of  the  Uc|)ul)lican 
jtarty,  it  is  a  ciirious  fuv  •  that  Coos  and  ;lie  other  three  iiiomitain  counties, 
Ui'lkiiap,  Carroll,  and  CraiLon,  usually  k<>  .'•euiocrati*'  by  fair  ma,jo!iti(!s.  Cole- 
brook  has  4  eliurches  an<l  i,:'.7".i  inhabitants.  It  is  said  that  i  of  the  potato  starch 
in  Americd  is  made  in  this  town  (by  8  factories). 

Excellent  trout-fishing  is  found  on  the  sequestered  streams  in  this 
vicinity.  Mt.  MoiiadnocK.  is  near  the  village,  and  may  be  ascended  by  a 
})ath  leading  in  4-5  M.  to  its  summit.  The  Beaver  Brook  Falls  are 
about  4  M.  distant,  and  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Dixville  Notch 

is  10  M.  S.  E.  of  Colebrook,  and  is  reached  by  a  road  leading  np  the  valley 
of  the  Mohawk  River,  a  pretty  stream  which  affords  good  trout-fishing. 
"The  Dixville  Notch  is,  briefly,  picturesciue, —  a  fine  gorge  between  a 
cnimbling  conical  crag  and  a  scarped  precipice,  —  a  place  easily  defensible, 
except  at  the  season  when  raspberries  would  distract  sentinels."  (Theo- 
dore WiNTHROP.)  This  pass  is  in  the  town  of  Dixville,  which  has  31,000 
acres  of  land  and  8  inhabitants,  with  a  valuation  of  .'§20,000.  The  Notch 
is  not  a  mountain-pass,  but  a  wonderful  ravine  among  high  iulls,  whose 
inipending  cliffs  are  worn  and  broken  into  strange  forms  of  ruin  and  deso- 
lition.  "At  Dixville,  all  is  decay,  wreck ;  the  hopeless  submission  of 
matter  in  the  coil  of  its  hungry  foes."    The  first  view  of  the  Notch  is 


I>    ' 


t   I  I 


If 


11 


III 


4-' 

L,t. 


214    PiOiUc  35. 


LAKE   UMI5AG0G. 


<lisap]ioiiitin;4,  since  it  is  entered  ut   a  liii,'!:  level  hy  tin    road  whidi  lia3 

been  a.seendinj,'  ;dl  the  way  IVoni  ('o'lel'rook.     No  inonnlainouh)  line  is  seen 

in  front,  and  it  is  only  after  leaving  the  great  forest  and  making  a  sliarj) 

turn  to  the  r.  and  a  sliort,  steep  ascent,  that  the  high,  eoluinnar  sides  am 

seen  frowning  at  each  other  across  rlie  naiiow  chasm.     These  cliffs  of 

decaying  ndca  slaie  present  a  scene  of  rnin,  transitoriness,  and  sluittered 

strengtli,  that  is  inournl'nl  and  almost  repnlsive. 

*  Table  Bock  is  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  and  is  reac!io.d  l)y  a  rude  stuirway 

of  stone  Idoclvs  called  Jaoolt's  Ladder,  whose  divergence  from  the  road  is 

maiked  by  a  guide-board  near  the  top  of  tlie  first  steej)  rise.     Tiie  Rock  is 

!j()\  ft.  above  the  road  and  2,ir>0  ft,  al)ovc  the  sea,  and  is  a  narrow  ])iti- 

naole  only  about  8  ft.  wide  at  the  top,  with  sharj*,  precipitous  sitles. 

TIio  view  is  very  txtniHivc  from  this  pdhit.  MunatJiioek  looms  bohilv  in  tlie 
W.  wi'h  other  ami  luoic  distant  sinmiiits  ii!  Vermont  ;  tlie  Canadian  ilerefortl  Mt. 
is  in  the  N.  W.  ;  while  Coinieeticnt  l.aU(!aml  tlie  Maj^'alloway  Mis.  are  in  the  N. 
Tti  till)  K.  are  the  broad  idains  of  Krrol  and  the  nii]ier  Androsc()^';,'in  vallev.  IJut 
the  r.iost  imiiressi\(!  si.Ljlit  is  the  dreary  ]iass  helow  with  its  hrokt-n  jialisades  seem- 
in;4  re;idy  to  fall  at  any  moment.  Tlu'  roek-s|.ires  oii]iosite,  which  are  seen  IVoni 
the  road  as  clearly  onilined  av^ainst  the  sky.  Iron:  this  jioint  lone  their  shar'iness 
of  form  against  the  dark  backgrouml  of  a  lofty  hill  which  towers  over  theiti. 

Above  Table  Rock  a  .sbort  path  leads  to  the  Ice  Care,  a  profound  chasm 
where  snow  and  ice  may  be  found  througliout  the  summer.  The  Profile 
js  seen  from  a  guide-board  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  high  up  on  the  cliffs, 
Avhile  the  Pulpit  is  pointed  out  on  the  1.  Farther  on,  a  board  on  the  r. 
directs  attention  to  the  refreshing  waters  of  Clear  Spring,  and  another 
board  on  the  1,  points  <mt  Washington's  Monument  and  the  Rimiacle, 
remarkable  rock-formations  which  have  rc'^ently  been  (levelo[)ed  by  clear- 
ing away  the  forests,  A  sign  on  the  V  shows  the  path  leading  to  the 
Flume,  where  a  brook  runs  through  a  gorge  ir.  the  rock  which  is  spanned 
by  a  rustic  bridge.  Tiie  Hume  is  20  ft.  deeji  and  10  ft.  wide,  and  has  been 
formed  by  the  erosion  of  a  trap-dike.  At  the  foot  of  the  Notch  (which 
is  1^  M.  long),  a  boartl  directs  to  the  r.  to  the  Cascades,  before  which 
is  the  grove  where  e.xcursion-parties  usually  dine.  Beyond  the  grove 
is  a  neat  rustii'  i)ridge  and  seat,  before  a  small  cascade,  and  by  following 
a  rugg.'d  i>ath  up  stream  on  th"  1.  (15  minutes)  a  diflf-side  seat  is  reached, 
from  which  a  noble  series  of  falls  are  seen,  descending  sheer  from  the 
precipice  above. 

The  Clear  Stream  Meadows  are  below  the  E.  side  of  the  Notch  and 
present  a  scene  of  pastoral  beauty  that  stiongly  contrasts  with  the  deso- 
late region  behind. 

Froiii  this  point  the  return  is  usually  commenced,  tho;igh  parties  of 
gentlemen  ]n-epared  lor  a  forest  e.\i)edition  sometimes  go  on  to  Erral  Dam 
(Errol  IIov.sc  ;  Akers  House)  i:^  M.  distant,  A  steamer  leaves  the  Dam 
KfUM-weekly  for  tiie  Ui.per  Magalloway  River,  and  also  for  the  Lake 
Jlonsc,  in  Upton,  at  the  fo;)t  of  Lake  Umbagog.     Winthrop  tells  ("  Life 


I'! 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  ANN. 


nmie  3G.    245 


lich  lias 
e  is  sc'i'U 
a  sli;iri> 
litU's  ar<i 
cliiTs  of 
liuttevc'il 

stturway 
load  is 

I  Hock  is 

row  \iu\- 

lus. 

Ilv  in  the 
(■n.nl  Mt. 

II  llH"    N. 

lev.  ]Jut 
idfs  sci'iii- 
;t  I'll  ti(i:ii 
sliiirjuiesa 

L'ltl. 

1(1  chasm 
e  Pritjih 
he  cliffs, 
pn  the  r. 
another 
iiiuacle, 
y  clear- 
to  the 
spanne<l 
as  heon 
(which 
■e  which 
le  grove 
uUowing 
reached, 
oni  the 

tch  and 
le  deso- 

'ties  of 
V(}1  Dam 
lie  Dam 
ie  Luke 
("  Life 


in  the  OjH'n  Air  ")  of  his  vnya^'o  in  a  sinall  l>oat  to  the  Tlanp-ley  Lakes, 
passing  tlirongh  Unibagog,  then  over  a  .'}  }<\.  jiortage,  and  tlu-nee  travers- 
ing tlie  Lakes  Wehickseliacook,  Alleguiulabagog,  Mollychunkanmg,  and 
Moosetocmagantic  to  Rangt'ley  (see  Route  11).  From  tlie  Lake  House  at 
the  S.  end  of  Unibagog,  semi-weekly  stages  run  to  Bethel  (see  Houte  40). 
Conneoticut  Lake  {Conn.  Lake  Ilonsr)  is  25  M.  N.  E.  of  Colehrook. 
it  is  r).\  M.  long  by  2^  M.  wiilc,  and  ahonnds  in  fish.  A  small  steamer 
jtlics  ov(r  its  waters.  4  M.  N.  E.  through  tlie  forest  is  Second  Lake,  2.\ 
M.  long  hy  2  M.  wide,  while  still  farther  N,  is  Third  L:ike,  covering  200 
acre",  and  on  the  border  of  Canada  is  Fourth  Lake,  the  source  of  the  Con- 
iieetieat  River.  The  latter  lake  covers  .'?  acres,  and  is  2,500  ft,  above  the 
sea.  S.  E.  of  Connect ieut  Lake  the  Magalloway  Mts.  are  seen,  while 
from  its  lower  end  the  Connectieut  River  ("' Quonektaeut,"  meaning  Long 
River,  or  River  of  IMiies)  Hows  down  a  long  "ascade.  These  lakes  are  in 
Pittsburg,  a  town  of  200,000  acres,  with  but  400  inhabitants.  UantO 
abounds  in  the  forests,  and  tish  in  the  streams. 

36.  Boston  to  Cape  Ann. 

Trains  on  the  Eastern  Ilaih-oail   fioni   tiie  station  on  Causfway  St.,  Boston 
(PI.  2). 

From  Boston  to  Beverly,  see  Route  37.  At  Beveily  a  branch  railroad 
diverge,  to  the  N.  E.  and  runs  (in  18  M.)  to  Rockport,  at  the  end  of  Cape 
•Ann,  and  86  M.  from  Boston.  Between  Beverly  and  Manchester  the  line 
lies  near  the  sea,  and  allords  fixMiueiit  glimpses  of  the  beach-cottages  and 
tents  whi(;h  front  on  the  outer  harlior  of  Salem.  Near  Beverly  Farms  the 
Mingo  Beach  stretches  around  a  broad  cove.  Manclu'ster  (Manchester 
Ilou.se)  is  a  ipiaint  little  village  on  the  1.  of  the  line,  lying  at  the  head  of 
a  narrow  harbor,  and  noted  for  having  produced  more  sea-captains  and 
sailors  than  any  other  town  of  eciual  jiopulation  in  America.  Between 
Manchester  and  Gloucester  the  line  runs  through  a  dreary  succession  of 
rocky  hills. 

Gloucester. 

Hotels. — Atlantic  House  ;  Webster  Ilmise  ;  Pavilion  (on  the  beach  ;  open  only 
ill  suninier). 

Oloucester  is  an  interesting  city  of  15,397  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  fiiui 
harbor  opening  to  the  S.  W.,  at  about  the  middle  of  the  cape.  It  has  13 
churches,  2  lodges  of  Masons  and  2  of  Odd  Fellows,  8  temperance  societies, 
and  4  banks.  It  has  a  curious  nautical  air,  from  the  fact  that  most  of  its 
men  are  engaged  in  tl;e  d(fep-sea  fisheries,  and  when  the  great  fleets  are  in 
port  the  streets  and  harbor  i»resent  a  li/ely  appearance.  Extensive  fires 
have  devastated  the  plaee,  and  its  flc.'ets  have  often  been  overtaken  with 
disasters,  but  s'ib  Gloucester  has  increased,  and  has  recently  attained  the 
distinction  of  a  city.     There  are  some  VL'ry  neat  ch  rcli  and  school  build- 


*  if 


1  ! 


24G    RmdcSG. 


GLOUCESTER. 


» 


iiiga,  and  the  City  Hall  is  a  new  and  elegant  structi'rc  of  brick,  in  the 
modern  French  style  of  architecture.  Tlie  inner  harbor  is  guarded  by 
Ten  Pound  Island,  and  i)resents  a  rare  scene  of  bustle  and  activity,  being 
the  very  home  of  schooncn's.  The  outer  harbor  is  protected  from  tlie  sea 
by  Eastern  Point,  with  its  lightliouse  auvl  fort,  while  on  the  W.  sliore  is 
the  Stage  Fort  (erected  during  the  Secession  War)  from  which  is  obtained 
a  pretty  view  of  the  liarbor  and  town.  Directly  across  the  harbor  from 
the  city  is  E.  Gloucester,  from  whose  rugged  hills  the  compact  streets, 
with  the  church-spires  and  the  Collins  School  and  lofty  City  Hall,  make 
a  pretty  scene  (the  best  near  views  arc  from  Rocky  Neck).  Several  large 
summer  boarding-houses  are  scattered  over  th.e  E.  Gloucester  peninsula, 
which  has  wild  and  rugged  scenery  on  the  seaward  side.  On  Little  Good 
Haibor  is  a  beach,  p.t  the  S.  end  of  which  are  the  Bass  Rocks,  where  the 
surf  rolls  in  grandly  after  an  easterly  gale.  The  City  Hall  Tower  owr- 
looks  the  pretty  suburbs  of  Brookbank  and  Stecpbank,  and  views  tlio 
open  sea  beyond  E.  Gloucestei*.  Within  5  minutes'  walk  of  the  Cily  Hall 
is  Fort  Poiiit,  a  small,  rocky  promontoiy  covered  with  fish-Hakes,  with 
the  remains  of  an  old  fort  on  its  highest  pouit.  Near  by  (and  3  minutes' 
walk  from  the  Atlantic  Hoiise)  is  Crescent  Beach,  facing  the  surf  from 
the  inner  harbor  and  jiartly  occupied  by  tlie  Pavilion  IIovsc,  of  whi(;h 
Lady  E.  S.  Wortley  said,  "It  is  very  much  like  being  afloat  in  a  line-of- 
battle  ship,  we  are  so  close  to  tlie  grand  old  Atlantic." 

Beacon  Pole  Hill,  close  to  tlie  city  on  the  Annisquam  road,  commands 
an  extensive  and  interesting  pros^iect  of  Gloucester,  the  bare,  bleak  hills 
of  the  cape,  and  the  wateis  and  shores  to  the  N.  and  S.  Beyond  the  hill 
is  the  hamlet  of  Rircrdale,  Avhich  has  a  church  of  the  17th  century. 

John  Murray,  the  "  Apostle  of  Universalism,"  i)lanted  that  sect  in  America  in 
177"i,  and  prerched  fur  several  years  in  this  churcli.  A  centennial  celel)ration 
took  place  here,  Hejtt.  '20-24,  1870,  during  wliich  many  thousand  Universalists 
enca!n])ed  ahout  tlie  town.  In  the  okl  Murray  Meeting-house  is  a  curious  organ, 
which  was  captured  during  the  Revolutit-a  by  a  pii\ateer.  It  is  4  ft.  high,  and  is 
l)layed  by  turning  a  crank,  its  c;i  )acity  being  30  tunes. 

The  pleasantest  excursion  about  Glouc*.  ster  is  to  Xorman's  Woe  and 
Rafc's  Chasm.  About  2  M.  from  the  city,  a  small  road  turns  off  to  the 
1.  from  the  Manchester  road,  and  soon,  losing  all  evidences  of  carriage- 
travel,  runs  into  a  sequestei'ed  path  in  the  borders  of  the  forest  and  by 
the  edge  of  the  sea.  The  dark  and  frowning  mass  of  rocks  soon  seen, 
surrounded  by  tlie  sea,  is  Normairs  Woe,  the  scene  of  Longfellow's  poem, 
*'  The  Wreck  of  the  Hesperus." 

*'  It  wns  the  schooner  lU'spcrus 
Tliiit  saili'il  till'  wintry  sea. 


J; 


"  -And  fitst  thront'h  tlic  micli'if.'Iit  (hivk  nnd  drear, 
Tliroioih  tl.i'  \N  liiNt  ii:fr  sliit  and  snow, 
J.iki'  ii  .'iHc'id  f.l'(>-t  till'  vessel  swept 
'Jow  Ills  the  infill  iSiiriiiiin'B  Woe." 


'Jl 


-      S. 


ROCKrORT. 


Route  36.     247 


,  in  tlio 
r(le«l  by 
y,  being 
the  sea 
sliore  is 
Dbtaineil 
lor  from 
streets, 
,11,  make 
-al  large 
jninsula, 
tie  Hood 
here  llie 
Arer  ovur- 
iews  the 
:'ity  Hall 
Ices,  ^vith 
minutes' 
;urf  irom 
of  vhicli 
a  line-of- 

ommands 
leak  hills 
the  hill 
iry. 

uiierica  in 
ek'bration 
iversulists 
ms  organ, 
igh,  and  is 

Voe  and 
T  to  the 
carriage- 
and  by 
oon  seen, 
,v's  poem, 


i 


Following  the  precipitous,  rocky  shore  about  1  M.  S.  W,  of  the  reef, 
one  comes  to  *  Rafe's  Chasm,  a  remarkable  fissure  in  the  great  cliff  which 
fronts  the  sea.  It  is  6  ft.  wide,  40  -  r»0  ft.  deep,  and  100  ft.  long,  and  the 
roar  of  the  waves  is  appalling  when  they  sweep  through  it  after  a  storm. 
Some  distance  beyond,  on  the  same  shore,  is  another  curious  cleft  in  the 
trap-rock.  The  ramble  may  be  extended  to  Goldsmith's  Point  and 
its  summer  villas,  witli  Kettle  Island  and  Great  Egg  Rock  off  shore,  and 
a  Icrge  new  hotel  near  the  l>each.  A  little  to  the  N.  (and  near  the  Mag- 
nolia flag-station  on  the  railroad)  is  a  swamp  containing  the  rare  and 
beautiful  magnolia-trees,  whose  flowers  are  out  in  tJuly. 

"  Around  the  Cape  "  is  a  favorite  excursion  frcm  Gloucester,  and  the 
distance  is  12-14  M.  From  Gloucester  to  Rockport  by  highway  or  rail- 
road, is  ai)out  4  M.  By  diverging  to  the  r.  from  the  main  road  a  shore- 
road  (inferior)  is  gained,  which  leads  to  Rockport  by  Whale  and  Loblolly 
Coves,  passing  near  Thacher's  and  Straitsmouth  Islands,  with  their  tall 
lighthouses.  Tliachcr's  Island  has  two  powerful  Fresnel  lights,  in 
granite  towers,  112  ft.  high  and  ^  M.  apart.  There  is  a  tradition  that  a 
rebel  cruiser  hit  one  of  tliese  lanterns  with  a  cannon-shot  during  a  dark 
night  of  the  Secession  War. 

Bookport  {Sherida,i  J^'uuse)  is  a  well-named  town  of  about  4,000 
iidiabitants,  with  5  churches  and  2  banks.  From  costly  artificial  harbors 
along  this  rock-bound  coast,  great  quantities  of  granite  are  shipped  to  all 
parts  of  the  Union.  2  M.  N.  of  this  village  is  the  summer-resort  at 
Pifjeon  Cove  (stages  from  Rockport  station),  with  the  Pigeon  Cove,  Ocean 
View,  and  Glen  Acre  Hotels,  and  several  boarding-houses.  This  was 
formerly  a  favorite  resort  of  the  great  divines  of  the  liberal  sects, —  Chapin, 
Starr  King,  Bartol,  and  others, — and  has  grown  rapidly  in  popularity.  The 
rocky  shores  furnish  an  endless  variety  of  scenery,  and  the  surf,  after 
stormy  weather,  is  grand  in  its  powei'.  Phillips  Avenue  and  other  streets 
have  been  graded  on  the  heights  by  Pigeon  Cove,  and  a  large  village  of 
summer  residences  (called  Ocean  View)  is  to  be  built  liere. 

From  Ocean  View,  the  load  runs  to  Folly  Cove,  and  near  Folly  Point, 
the  N.  limit  of  the  cape,  to  LanesviUe,  looking  across  the  nortliern  waters 
to  the  shores  of  Essex  North,  New  Hampshire,  and  lower  Maine.  Tliere 
are  sunmier  boarding-houyes  Jiere  and  at  Annisqxam,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
S(iuam  River.  This  tidal  lagune  is  now  followetl  to  liai/  Vieiii,  with  its 
large  wharves,  and  a  steam  railroad  running  back  into  quarries  which  yield 
granite  (of  which  the  Boston  Post  OfTice  is  being  built)  of  a  lighter  color 
than  that  of  Quincy,  On  a  sightly  hill  ovi-r  Bay  View  is  tlie  elegant  sea- 
sitle  cottage  (of  red  and  gray  granite),  which  was  presented  by  friends  to 
the  Hon.  B.  F.  Eutler,  Congressman  from  Essex  County.  From  Annis- 
quum  to  Gloucester  it  is  aboiit  4  M.,  mostly  by  the  side  of  Squam  River, 
and  passing  Riverd'Uc  and  Beacon  Pole  Hill. 


248    R(mte36. 


CAPE  ANN. 


1 

li 

Cape  Ann  was  formerly  inhalutod  hj-  a  small  Iribo  of  Indians,  who  cal'ed  it  Wiii- 
gaersheek.  It  was  roundcfl  by  Cai>t.  Smith  in  KiU,  who  nanu>d  it  C  ape  Tra^'a- 
bigzanda  in  memory  of  a  Tiirlvisli  i)rin(ess  who  had  befriended  him  while  he  was 
wounded  and  a  prisoner  in  Constantinople  (IGOl).  Prinee  Charles  of  England 
overruled  Smith,  and  named  tlie  eape  in  honor  of  his  royal  mother.  In  1(125  llic 
forest-covered  promontory  was  settled  by  a  colony  under  Roger  Conant,  who 
founded  here  the  first  Puritan  church.  Abandoned  by  Conant  in  favor  ol  Salem, 
it  was  soon  re-peopled  by  another  swarm  from  the  English  hive,  and  incorporated 
in  1642  under  the  name  of  Gloucester,  since  most  of  its  settlers  came  from  the 
English  town  of  that  name.  The  colonists  soon  exterminated  the"lyons"  and 
drove  off  the  Indians.  10'.i2  was  "a  year  memorable  in  the  annals  of  mystery," 
and  hundreds  of  French  and  Indian  ghosts  were  thought  to  haunt  the  cape,  and 
were  often  shot  at  but  never  hurt.  So  great  was  the  panic  that  two  regiments 
from  the  mainland  oecupied  the  cape.  With  the  decline  of  the  witchcraft  delusion 
in  Salem  the  superstitious  mariners  of  (Jloucester  lost  sight  of  their  mysterious 
enemies,  and  the  guards  were  withdrawn.  In  1710  the  first  terrible  marine  dis- 
aster occurred,  wlien  .">  large  lishing-vessels  frcT>i  this  port  were  lost  off  the  13anl\s 
with  all  on  board.  In  1774  Edmund  IhnUe,  sjieaking  of  the  Massachusetts  fislnr- 
men,  said,  "  No  sea  but  what  is  vexed  by  their  lisheries,  no  climate  that  is  i.ot 
witness  of  their  toils  ;  neither  tiie  perseverance  of  Holland,  nor  the  activity  of 
France,  uor  the  dexterous  and  firm  sagacity  of  English  entcriirise,  ever  cnnit d 
their  most  jterilous  mode  of  hardy  industry  to  the  extent  to  whieh  it  has  bicn 
pursued  by  this  recent  pe,oj<le,  -  a  people  who  aie  yet  in  the  gristle,  and  not  yet 
hardened  into  manhood."  In  1775  Cape  Ann  sent  800  men  to  the  American  army 
besieging  Boston,  and  in  August  of  that  year  Gloucester  was  bombarded  for  4 
hours  by  the  Uritish  sloop-of-war  "  Falcon."  The  minute-men  held  the  town,  and 
captured  4  boats,  a  tender,  and  a  inize  schooner  with  40  men  from  the  "  Falcon." 
The  ruined  town  was  soon  re]taired,and  with  the  dose  of  the  war,  the  cessation 
of  privateering,  and  the  reduction  of  the  lational  navy,  the  fishing-fleets  were  once 
more  manned  and  sent  out.  (Jloucester  lad  includecl  the  wliole  eape  until  bS-lo, 
when  Rockport  became  an  indeiicndent  town.  The  canal  IVom  the  harbor  to 
Squam  River  (first  cut  in  1(54:5)  was  long  ago  abandoned  as  useless.  In  1873 
Gloucester  received  a  city  charter. 

William  Winter,  the  poet,  E.  P.  Whipple,  the  essayist,  and  Samuel  Gilnian,  the 
Unitarian  divine,  were  horn  here  ;  also,  Capt.  Haraden,  who,  with  the  "Pieker- 
ing,"  swept  the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  the  North  Atlantic,  and  took  1,000  eannon  from 
the  British  on  the  .sea,  between  1775  and  178M.  E]H'S  Sargent,  the  author ;  Henry 
Sargent,  the  painter  ;  and  other  notables  of  the  same  faniily,  came  from  Glouces- 
ter. 

The  fisheries  around  Newfoundland  have  caused  trouble  ever  since  1585,  when 
Queen  Elizabeth  sent  a  fleet  whicih  swooped  down  on  a  swarm  of  Norman  fishing- 
vessels  on  the  Banks,  and  caj>tured  half  of  them.  But  the  deep-sea  and  George's 
Bank  fisheines  are  the  noble  pursuits  of  this  maritime  p<'ople,  who  man  their  fleets 
with  5,000  men,  and  lose  on  an  average,  10  vessels  and  100  men  each  year.  In 
the  winter  of  1802,  13  vessels  and  130  men  from  this  poi-t  were  lost  in  one  night 
on  George's  Bank. 

"  Wild  ai-c  the  waves  which  Insh  the  reefs  nlonj?  St.  Gcorpe's  Bank, 
Cold  on  the  shore  of  Lnbrnrtor  the  foe  lies  white  nnd  dnnk  ; 
Through  stonn  and  wave  and  blindine  mist,  stout  are  the  liearts  which  man 
The  flshing-sniueks  of  Marl)lehea(l,  the  sea-boats  of  Cape  Ann. 

"  The  cold  Xorth  liuht  and  wintry  sun  plare  on  their  iey  forms 
BentRrimly  o'er  tin  Ir  straininu  lines,  or  wrestlinp  with  the  storms  ; 
Free  as  the  winds  they  drive  before,  ronph  as  tlie  waves  thev  roam, 
They  laugh  to  scorn  the  slaver  s  threat  against  their  rocky  home  " 

(John  G.  Whittieb.) 


* 


37.  Boston  to  Portland  and  St  John. 

This  is  the  most  interesting  and  eisy  of  tlie  rouics  fti  .Maine  and  the  Maritime 
Provinces.  No  change  of  cars  is  necf^snry  between  I'oston  and  Bantjor,  since 
the  Eastern  Railroad  cars  i»;is,s(,n  (o  tlic  rails  of  tlic  .Maine  ("entral  Railwav  at 
Portland  and  are  carried  tl,nn;-li  l>  Ban-«-r.     At  the  latter  citv  the  traveller  gets 


of 


),  •when 
Ifisliinj^- 

rt'orge'rt 
\h-  fleets 

cir.     In 


Lman 


!R.) 


Irit.inie 

since 

h-ay  at. 

Ir  gets 


1 


EVERETT. 


Itoute  ST.     240 


on  the  train  of  the  Enroi>oan  ami  Nortli  American  Railway,  wliich  i)assen  thrmi^'li 
to  St.  John.  Doson  to  Sah-ni,  1(J  .M.  ;  t<>  N'ewl)iirvi«>rl,  ;i(!  M.  :  to  I'ortsindiitli, 
5e  M.  ;  to  Portland,  108  M.  ;  to  Augusta,  171  M.  ;  to  Bangor,  240  M.  ;  to  St.  John, 
440  M.  ;  to  Halifax,  0.30  M. 

The  rich  and  elegant  ears  of  the  Pnllinan  Company  are  attached  to  every 
through  train.  Thi.s  company  has  over  .'»()0  cars(costiMv  >=  IS -'Jl'.ooo  each)  running 
on  00  railro.ids.  They  are  used  throuudioiit  tlie  UnitiMJ  .States,  also  iK'tween  l?om- 
bay  and  Cahutta  (l.SOO  .M.),  and  are  ationt  to  lie  introduced  on  tlie  through  ronto 
from  Paris  to  Vienna.  The  cliief  advantage  i)oss('ssed  by  this  line  is  tiiat  it  riuia 
through  the  large  sea-cities  of  .Massachii:  etts,  witii  frequent  views  of  the  ocean 
and  tiie  northern  bays.  Nnmerou.s  i»opu!ar  seaside  re.sorts  are  near  its  track, 
while  9  connecting  lines  run  landward  from  it.  Fares,  to  Portland,  ^3.00  ;  to 
Bangor,  ^SO.OO  ;  to  St.  John,  ijs  10.00  ;  to  Halifax,  .'?  14.00. 

The  lino  nearly  coincides  with  the  rout"  of  the  "Portsmouth  Flying  Caieh 
Co.,"  established  in  170'J,  to  make  wetdsiy  trips  by  way  of  the  Ncwbnryport  road. 
The  fare  wa.s-  lli.s-.  0'/.  to  Portsmoutli  ami  O.s-.  to  Newbury.  President  Dwiglit 
(of  Yale)  rode  over  this  route  in  IT'.UJ,  and  wrote,  "No  part  of  the  United  States 
t'Hrni.she.s  a  tour  e<iually  i)leasing.  Nowh(;re  is  there  in  the  same  compass  such  n. 
number  of  towns  etpially  interesting,  large,  wealthy,  and  beautiful,  or  equally 
inhalntcd  by  intelligent,  polished,  and  resjiectable  peojile." 

Two  through  exi)ress  trains  run  daily  each  way  between  Boston  and  Bangor, 
240  M.,  in  11  hours. 

The  train  leave.s  the  terminal  .station  on  Cau.seway  St.,  at  the  foot  of 
Friend  St.  (PI.  2),  and  runs  out  over  Charle.s  River  on  a  long  tre.stlo.  On 
the  1.  is  the  track  of  tlie  Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the 
Fiteldiurg  and  the  Roston  and  Maine  tracks.  The  heights  of  Charlestown, 
crowned  hy  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  rise  on  the  r.,  and  the  manufactories 
of  E,  Cambridge  are  seen  on  the  1.  OIV  Prison  Point  (Charlestown)  the 
Fitehburg  R.  R.  is  crossed,  with  the  State  Prison  close  at  hand,  and  the 
McLean  Asi/lian  for  the  Insane  on  the  1.  Tliis  Asylum  was  opened  in 
1818,  and  has  extensive  buildings  which  cost  over  $200,000,  surrounded 
by  pleasant  grounds.  It  was  named  for  a  philanthropic  Boston  merchant, 
who  gave  ,$150,000  for  this  object  and  to  Harvard  University.  Al'ter 
rubiiing  for  nearly  a  mile  over  the  Avaters  of  Cliarles  River  and  Miller's 
Creek,  the  line  gains  the  Somerville  meadows,  and  cpo.sses  the  Boston  and 
Maine  track  just  before  reaching  Somerrillc  station.  Soon  after  leaving 
this  station,  Mt.  Benedict  and  the  niiiis  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  (de- 
stroyed by  a  mol)  in  1S34)  are  passed  on  tlie  1.  and  the  train  crosses  the 
My.stic  River,  — with  Charlestown  and  E.  ]'nst<jn  on  the  r. 

Station,  Everett^  whence  the  Saugus  Branch  diverges  to  the  N.,  and 
passes  through  the  suburban  villages  of  Maiden,  Maplewood,  Linden, 
Cliftondale,  Saugus,  E.  Saugus,  and  Lynn  Common.  Near  the  latter  vil- 
lage it  rejoins  the  main  line.  The  town  of  p]verett  Avas  incorporated  in 
1870,  with  a  population  of  2,222  and  a  valuation  of  $2,000,000.  From 
this  point  the  track  runs  S.  of  E.  to  Clvlsea  station.  From  Boston  to 
Chelsea  the  road  describes  a  semicircle  with  the  centre  of  tlie  curve  in- 
clined to  the  N.  W.  The  road  formerly  terminated  at  E.  Boston,  but  a 
depot  was  built  in  the  city,  and  a  circuitous  course  was  neces.sury  in  order 
to  avoid  the   deep  outer   channels  of  the   Charles  and   Mystic  Rivens. 

Chelsea  and  Rever?  Rc.ich  are  de.sciibed  in  Route  2.     The  line  .soon  cio.is:.^ 
11  * 


i':' 

>  ■ 


1 1 


ii' 


[I  .' 


i 


250    r.ouie  37. 


LYNN. 


Cliclsi'.a  Creek  and  S;uip;ii.s  riivor,  witli  the  liotels  on  Chelsea  (or  Revevc) 
Beacli,  on  the  r.,  .skirts  Lynn  llarlior,  passes  W.  Lynn,  and  stops  at 


TIotel«. 


Rag-imoro  Ilonso 


Ljnin  Hotel.     Horse-cars  to  Bos- 


Lynn. 

Central  House 
ton,  Iiuir-Ji()url}\ 

Lynn  is  a  busy  city  of  28,201  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  N.  end  of 
Mass.  Bay,  on  a  harbor  formed  by  the  jjcninsula  of  Nahant.  The  greater 
part  of  the  city  is  on  a  plain  near  the  sea,  while  a  chain  of  porphyritic 
hills  on  the  N.  is  adorned  "with  many  neat  villas.  Market  St.  is  the  main 
thorough i'are,  and  is  lined  with  large  commercial  buildings,  mostly  of 
Itrick,  although  l)y  far  the  greater  part  of  the  city  is  constructed  of  wood. 
Skilled  American  labor  is  employed  here  to  a  larger  extent  than  in  thi'- 
otlier  manrfacturing  cities  of  New  England  (where  foreign  workmen  ar^; 
numerous),  and  its  interests  arc  protected  and  sometimes  over-asserted  by 
a  powerful  organization  called  the  Knights  of  St.  Crispin. 

The,  city  was  foundcfl  in  1G20,  and  named  for  Lynn  Rej^is,  in  England,  the  linnn^ 
of  its  lirst  pastor  (lG."G-7!»)-  In  1810,  it  was  th(!  7th  town  of  Essex  County  ;  in 
1820,  tlie  Gtli  ;  in  1830,  tiie  4th  ;  in  1840,  tiie  2d,  wliicli  rank  it  still  maintains 
(Lawrence  Vieing  the  largest  city  in  tlie  county).  About  1750,  the  manufacture  of 
ladies'  .shoes  was  conuuenced  here  by  a  Weh^hman  named  Dagyr,  and  it  has  sincn 

f^rown  to  vast  ])roi)ortions,  Lynn  now  being  the  lirst  city  in  the  world  in  this 
>ranch  of  industry. 

The  shoe-manufacture  is  now  the  chief  business  of  Massa(!husetts.  Of 
8555,000,000,  the  aggregate  value  of  the  manufactures  in  the  State  in  the  year 
1870,  iSS8,.S90,58.'),  was  the  value  of  the  boots  and  shoes  made;  833,(585,055,  of 
the  leather  ;  .8  5!), 200,423,  of  cotton  goods  and  threads  ;  !?  48, 177,135,  of  the  wool- 
lens and  worsteds  ;  and  )$  20,707,485,  of  the  iron-manufactures. 

In  1707,  Lvnn  made  80,000  ])airs  of  shoes  ;  in  1810,  1,000,000  pairs;  in  ISCa, 
5,300,000  pairs;  ar.il  in  1808,  over  10,000,000  pairs,  valued  at  $18,000,000.  In 
1805,  there  were  employeil  0,084  men  uiid  4,984  women,  in  this  branch  of  in- 
ibi:;try. 

The  *  City  Hall  is  one  of  the  finest  municipal  buildings  in  New  Eng- 
land. It  is  some  distance  W.  of  the  .station,  and  is  substantially  and 
gracefully  built  of  brick  and  brownstone,  Avith  a  fine  tower  above  it.  It 
fronts  on  a  long  and  narrow  Common  which  extends  nearly  to  the  Lynn 
Common  station.  Ili'jh  Rock  is  N.  of  the  City  Hall,  and  commands  a 
wide  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  waters.  Here  was  the  homo 
of  Moll  Pitcher,  a  reputed  sorceress,  and  here  also,  in  later  years,  have 
resided  the  Hutchinson  family  of  singers.  Pine  Grove  Cemetery  is  a 
beautiful  rural  burying-ground  on  the  hills  toward  the  "  Lakes  of  Lpm." 

Dmvjeon  Rock  is  3-4  M.  from  the  city.  Here,  on  one  of  the  highest 
of  a  series  of  picturesque,  forest-covered  hills,  it  is  said  that  certain  pirates 
liad  their  den  and  treasure-house,  until  an  cartlicpiake  swallowed  them 
lip  (in  the  17th  century).  In  18.'!>2  a  person  came  to  this  hill  and  began  to 
dig  for  treasures  under  the  inspiration  of  spiritualism  and  the  guidance 
of  clairvoyants.  He  Avorked  here  until  his  death  in  1808,  meanwhilo 
cutting  a  passage  into  the  iron-like  porphyry  rock,  13j  ft.  long,  7  ft.  wide, 


SWAMrSCOTT. 


R,»(te37.     251 


Iv  Eng- 

ly  ami 

It 

Lynn 

mds  ;i 

homo 

havo 

1/  is  a 

Ugliest 
>irates 

them 
Igan  to 
itlancc 
liwhilo 

■wide. 


aii'l  7  ft.  high.     Near  this  peine  is  the  Faiigus  River,  wliere  a  forge  and 
snielting-works  for  working  iron  were  erected  in  1643. 

The  pleasantest  part  of  Lynn  is  the  vicinity  of  Nahant  St.  and  Saga- 
more Hill,  whore  there  are  many  fine  villas  belonging  to  Boston  mer- 
chants. Tlie  bank  bnilding  and  the  new  Universr.list  Church  are  in  this 
quarter,  and  are  worthy  of  notice.  Lynn  Beach  and  Nahant  (sec  page  21) 
are  gained  by  way  of  Nahar.t  St.,  while  by  following  the  shore  toward 
the  N.  (a  foot-path  only)  a  line  of  elegant  seaside  villas  is  passed,  and 
Swampscott  is  reached. 

Soon  after  leaving  Lynn,  the  train  reaches  Swampscott  (Great  Anawau 
House;  Little  Anawan  House  ;  Ocean  House  ;  Lincoln  House),  a  fashion- 
able watering-place,  which,  like  Nahant,  is  much  affected  by  the  aristocracy 
of  Boston,  Their  elegant  carriages  and  trim  ya(;hts  are  easily  l)roughL 
here  (13  M.  from  Boston),  and  make  land  and  water  lively  through  tlin 
summer  months.  Numerous  boarding-houses,  small  hotels,  and  cottages 
receive  their  quf  tas  of  the  guests.  The  beaches  are  short  and  limite<l, 
but  afford  safe  bathing,  while  the  greater  part  of  the  shore  consists  of 
higli  bluffs  and  ragged  ledges.  Phillips'  Beach,  about  3  M.  E.  of  tho 
station,  faces  the  open  sea,  and  is  nearly  insulated  by  Phillips'  Pond.  A 
large  cluster  of  cottages  is  built  on  the  prominent  point  over  Dread 
Ledge,  from  which  the  shore  trends  W.,  and  pretty  views  of  Nahant  Bay, 
the  peninsula  of  Nahant,  and  the  islanded  Egg  Rock,  may  be  gainetl. 
The  yachts  and  village  fishing-smacks  are  usually  anchored  off  Fisher- 
man's Village  and  along  tlie  S.  shore.  Beyond  Swampscott  the  train 
reaches 

Salem. 

Hotels.     Essex  Hous»^,  on  Essex  St.,  S3.00  a  day  ;  Derby  House. 
Horse-cars  to  Peabody  and  Beverly  (on  Essex  St.).    Steamers  (in  summer) 
to  Lev.  ell  Island. 

Salem,  the  mother-city  of  the  Massachusetts  colony,  and  a  shire-town 
of  Essex  County,  is  favorably  situated  on  a  long  peninsula  between  two 
inlets  of  the  sea.  It  has  24,119  inhabitants,  and  while  slowly  gaining  in 
wealth,  it  is  losing  its  place  among  the  cities  of  the  State  and  County,  by 
their  more  rapid  increase.  The  marine  aristocracy  of  the  ohl  East  India 
merchants  and  captains  still  holds  lines  of  stately  old-time  mansions,  and 
the  stillness  and  grave  propriety  of  tlie  city  is  generally  noticed  by  the 
visitor.  The  wharves  are  now  occu]ued  by  tlie  few  coasting-vessels  whicli 
have  taken  the  place  of  the  great  East  Iiidiamen  which  formerly  entered 
here.  Boston  has  taken  this  trade  away,  aii<l  the  city  is  now  sup})or(,ed 
by  its  lately  develo})ed  steam-mills  and  factories,  Tlioro  is  a  safe  and 
commodious  harbor  before  tlie  city,  wliicli  is  defended  by  Fort  Pickering', 
and  good  boating  is  found  there.  The  State  Normal  Scliool  in  Siilcin  is 
situated  on  High  St,,  and  has  160  girls  in  atten<laiice.     Instruction  of  a 


!     ) 


252    Route  37. 


SALExM. 


- 1 


t'. 


I!  > 


luf,-li  order  is  given  licrc  without  cost,  on  condition  that  cacli  student  shall 
t(!acli  (tor  a  spt'cilied  time)  in  the  schools  of  the  ('oninionwealth.  Tho 
churches  of  the  city  are  not  remarkable  for  their  architecture,  although  3 
of  them  arc  of  stone.     There  are  3  Unitarian  churches. 

The  East  India  Marine  IlnU  is  on  Essex  St.,  near  tho  Essex  House. 
Here  are  the  scientific  collections  of  tlie  Essex  Institute  and  the  *  ethno- 
logical collections  of  the  E.  I.  Marine  Society  (organized  in  1799  by  tho 
chief  ofTicers  of  Salem  Indiamen).  This  liall  was  built  in  1825,  and  in 
18G7  George  Peabody  gave  .$  140,000  for  the  j^romotion  of  knowledge  in 
Essex  County,  with  part  of  which  the  hall  was  purchased.  The  collec- 
tions remain  on  i)erniunent  deposit  (open  daily,  except  Sunday  and  Mon- 
day, 9-12  A.  M.,  and  1-5  P.  M. ). 

Nearly  every  branch  of  uatiiral  science  is  represented  in  the  extensive  and  well- 
nrr!iii;,'('(l  caltiiiets  of  tlie  Essex  Institute!.  Tlu;  Marine  [Society's  collectinn  em- 
braces a  (,'reat  nunilier  of  curiosities  l)r()n;,'!it  from  remote  lands.  Tliere  arc  musi- 
cal instruments  of  every  form  used  by  tlie  Oriental  nations,  and  a  curious  uiray 
of  tlieir  weapons  of  war.  Clothiuf?,  utensils,  and  other  aiPiiointments  of  Hindoo 
daily  life  are  seen,  and  also  a  large  and  well-conceived  tableau  of  court-life.  In  ono 
l>artof  the  hall  is  ii  eomj'lete  a.ssortment  of  go»ls,  Hii.doo,  Chinese,  and  l*oly- 
nesian.  The  models  of  naval  architecture  are  very  nnniemiis,  and  mark  the  pro- 
gress from  the  rude  Esquimati  canoe  to  the  nioilel  of  the  stately  and  heavily- 
armed  ^SaIem  East  Indiaman,  the  "(Jrand  Turk."  There  are  also  cabinets  tilled 
with  aboriginal  American  and  Peruvian  ant.i(iuities,  mostly  stone  implements  and 
jiottery.  The  gem  of  the  collections  is  a  *  piece  of  wood-carving  attributed  to  an 
Italian  monk  of  the  14th  century.  In  the  concavities  of  two  hemispheres  of  l»ox- 
wood,  each  1 "  inches  in  diameter,  he  has  carved  110  full-hiugth  figures,  s<une  of 
which  are  full  of  expr«!ssiou.  One  hemispheic  represents  Ileavcu,  and  the  other 
Hell. 

Flummer  Hall  is  a  fine  building  on  Essex  St.,  which  was  erected  with 
funds  left  to  the  Salem  Athenrouni  by  Miss  Plumnier.  In  the  second 
story  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  halls  in  the  State,  with  white  Corinthian 
columns  at  the  sides,  and  some  old  portraits,  the  cliief  of  which  is  a  large, 
full-length  painting  of  Sir  "William  Pepperell  in  his  favorite  red  costume. 
Oliver  Cromwell,  Secretary  Pickering,  Governors  Leverett,  Bradstreet, 
aiul  Endicott,  several  early  divines  and  ladies  of  tlie  colonial  era,  are  rep- 
resented in  these  old  portraits.  There  are  three  libraries  (Athenaeum, 
Essex  Institute,  and  S.  Essex  Medical  Society)  in  the  building,  with  an 
aggregate  of  43,000  volumes,  the  larger  part  of  which  are  in  the  hall. 
The  original  charter  of  Ma.isachusetts  Bay,  given  by  King  Charles  I,  in 
1628,  is  preserved  here,  together  with  sundry  other  quaint  old  documents 
of  State.  Over  the  main  stairway  is  a  graphic  painting  representing  a 
scene  in  the  v.itchcraft  days.  Behind  Plummer  Hall,  and  reached  by  pass- 
ing around  tlie  building,  is  the  oldest  church  edifice  in  the  Northern 
States.  It  was  built  in  1634  for  the  First  Church,  of  which  Roger  Wil- 
liams was  pastor,  and  was  used  for  38  years.  In  1672  a  new  church  was 
built,  and  this  edifice  was  abandoned.  It  is  about  half  as  large  as  an 
ordinary  parlor,  and  has  a  gallery,  a  high-pointed  roof,  diamond-paned 
windows,  and  a  few  relics  of  the  people  who  were  contemporary  with  it. 


SALEM. 


JlmiteST.     253 


nan 


rep- 
um, 
an 

wU. 
in 
pnta 

Ig  ^ 

lass- 

Icrn 


kvas 

an 

ped 


The  Old  Witch  House  is  on  tlie  ooruerof  Essex  and  North  Sts.  (a  one- 
elory  shop  lias  been  l)uilt  in  front  of  it).  It  dates  from  1042,  and  certain 
of  the  suspected  witches  were  tried  in  it.  GaUows  Hill  is  VV.  of  the  city, 
and  commands  a  broad  view  over  the  harbor  and  surroundinj:;  country. 
Here  Vj  j)ersons  were  i)ut  to  death  during'  the  witchcraft  delusion.  In 
llni'iiumi/  Urove  t'ciiictcrij,  W.  of  Salem,  (Jcorge  I'eabody  is  buried,  while 
in  the  village  of  Feabody  ("2  Al.  distant ;  horse-cars  from  Salem)  is  shown 
the  house  where  he  was  bom.  The  library  and  collections  of  the  Pcahody 
luditute  arc  worthy  of  a  visit  (open  Wednesday  and  Saturday).  The 
most  notable  object  in  this  collection  is  the  *  i)ortrait  of  Queen  Victoria, 
given  by  her  to  George  Peabody  It  is  14  by  10  inches  in  size,  painted 
on  enamel,  framed  with  blue  and  gold,  and  adorned  with  rich  jewels.  It 
is.  said  to  have  cost  §  30,000. 

Derby  Wharf  is  a  long  and  well-constructed  wharf  on  the  S.  of  tlie  city, 
near  the  great  Naumkeag  Cotton  Mills.  It  was  formerly  the  focal  point 
of  the  E.  Inilia  trade,  and  at  its  head  stands  the  old  Custom  House 
Avhere  Hawthorne  was  emi)loyed  (his  birthplace  was  at  No.  21  Union 
St.).  The  Court  Il"use  and  the  CUij  Hall  are  granite  buildings  near  the 
tunnel,  and  Chestnut  St.  is  an  elm -lined,  aristocratic  street,  which  is  called 
the  finest  in  the  city.  In  the  E.  is  the  broad  Common  known  as  Wash- 
ington S(iuare,  with  the  brownstone  East  Church  (Unitarian)  fronting  on 
it.  In  this  vicinity  is  St.  Peter's  Episcojial  Church,  an  old  and  massive 
stone  building. 

Sdlrm  Nirk  is  a  peninsula  projerting  from  the  city  toward  the  sea,  nearly  imin- 
habitnl,  ami  the  seat  of  Fort  Pickering  and  the  Salem  Abiishouso.  Tlie  old 
ruined  batteries  on  the  Neck  were  favorite  haunts  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  (see 
"  Aniericau  Note-Books  "). 

Tiiere  are  in  Salem  extensive  works  for  the  manufacture  of  railwiiy  cars  ;  also 
for  making  guimy-bags  ;  while  the  Naumkeag  Cotton  Mills  employ  a  large  num- 
Imt  of  workmen.  Immense  quantities  of  coal  are  liandleil  here,  being  landed  on 
I'hillips'  Wharf,  and  thence  (tarried  by  rail  into  the  interior.  The  city  is  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  wuter  by  an  acpieducit  Icailiiig  tVoui  Wcnl'.am  I'ond. 

In  1626  Roger  Conant  left  the  fishing  colony  on  C.i]»e  Ann,  and  built  the  first 
house  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Naumkeag.*  In  1027  the  I'ly mouth  Company 
ttranted  to  eerbiin  "  knights  and  gentlemen  of  Dorchester,  and  tli<!ir  heirs,  assigns, 
and  associates  forever,  all  that  i)art  of  New  England  wliich  lies  between  a  great 
river  called  Merrimac,  and  a  certain  other  river  called  Charles."  John  Endicott 
was  sent  over  in  1628,  and  foundeil  at  Naumkeag  the  capital  of  this  district.  The 
colony  was  "  called  Satem  from  the  i)eace  which  they  had  and  hoped  in  it."  In 
1028  the  First  Church  was  formed,  and  in  10.'U  Philip  llatclille  was  scourged,  had 
his  ears  cut  oif,  and  sutfered  banishment  and  confiscation  of  his  property,  "for 
blasphemy  against  the  church  of  Salem,  themother-c'iurchof  allthis  Holy  Land." 
The  militant  disposition  of  the  colonists  was  shown  by  the  fact  that  during  the 
first  few  years  they  imported  £  18,()0i)  worth  of  furniture,  binlding  materials,  &c., 
while  £  22,000  wortli  of  arms  and  artillery  was  brought  in  during  the  same  time. 
In  162!>  there  were  10  houses  here,  besides  the  governor's  house,  wiiich  was  gar- 
ni.shed  with  great  ordnance,  "and  tlnis  wee  doubt  not  tiiat  Cod  will  be  with  us, 
and  if  God  be  with  us,  who  can  be  against  us."     In  mid.summer,  10;ii»,  Gov.  John 

•Naiimkeajr  i«  snid  to  be  an  Indian  word  meaning  "  Eel  liind,"  but  Cotton  Mather  (who 
Is  notliiiiKifnot  Oriental)  holds  to  its  derivation  f.om  the  Hebrew  words,  Kahiira  (eomfort) 
and  Keick  vhuveu). 


254 


Rmdc  57. 


SALEM. 


.r 


>  I 


i  'f.. 


If  ■■■'. 


Ill 


■ » J 


\Vinthioi>  arrivifl  iit  K.ilctn  witli  10  ships  and  a  lar^"  miniltcr  of  polonisfs.  Tlio 
lovely  |,a<l.v  AralMll.i  .lolmsnii,  tin-  iiaiit,'htt'r  of  tli<!  fvirl  of  Liindlii.  ami  tlin  wile 
of  Isaac  .liiliiisiiii,  tlif  \vi  alt  liit'st  of  tlii'  citloiiists,  was  tlu;  pride  (if  tin-  sttllciiieiit, 

ami  tlic  llaK-sliip  nf  tlif  lltrl  was  iiai 1  for  lier.     licfdic  le-aviii^'  Kn'^laiid  slio  iii- 

sislcd  rm  !icc(iin|iaii.viii;^'  licr  liiisiiaiid,  "  WliitlicrsDcvcr  yotir  fatall  (IimUiic  sliall 
dryve  y<»ii,  cyllK  r  liy  tiic  fiiriniis  waves  of  tlit^  meat  (leeiiii,  or  l»y  the  iiiaiiy-foldo 
and  honilile  tlaiiKers  of  tin-  lamle,  I  wyl  surely  not  leave  your  eonipany.  There 
can  IK)  jieryll  cliiiunce  to  ine  so  terriltle,  nor  any  kinde  of  death  so  eruell,  that 
shall  not  he  much  easier  for  me  to  ahyde  tlian  to  live  so  farre  separate  from  you," 
W'itldn  .!  months  .ifter  the  landin;,',  this  brave  piitrician  hidy  died  at  Salem  (uiid 
was  liiiricd  near  |}ri<lt,'e  St.).     llir  hnsliaiid  survived  her  liut  a  month. 

Winthrop  and  .lolmson  moved  S.  to  Charlestown,  and  thenia*  to  Boston,  which 
Boon  herame  tlie  chief  town  and  capital  of  thi'  eoUmy  (see  page  7).  Kndicott,  I'ea- 
liody,  jind  otlurs  remained  at  Salem,  and  built  mansions  near  North  Uiver,  and 
the  former  leil  the  Isf  .Mass.  Uej^'inuMit  (or;^'ani/ed  in  Ksse.K  County,  in  KliiO)  in  a 
bloodless  an<l  successful  campaign  a;^ainsttlie  turbulent  An;;Iieanc(doiiy  at  .Merry 
Mount  iMraintrce).  In  KWil  the  (^ualieis  were  persecuted  at  Salem,  aiid  in  1()7/ 
the;  Indians  on  the  coast  of  Maint;  seized  'JO  vessels,  mostly  fn'iu  this  town,  while 
4  \ess(!ls  escaped  by  battlt;  and  returned  to  the  port,  bearing;-  I'.twoundeil  men  and 
sevt-ral  dead.  The  witchcraft  delusion  arose  in  lO'.iJ  in  tiie  family  of  Samuel  I'arris, 
]ia.stor  of  the  adjacent  villa;;e  of  Danvers.  His  dauj^hter  and  his  idece  accused 
'J'ituba,  a  slave  of  the  honselndd,  of  bewitchinj,'  them,  and  I'arris  whipjted  her 
uidil  she  conlessed  it.  Tituba's  husband,  under  the  inlluence  of  fear,  chai'ged 
certain  other  persons  of  the  same  crime,  and  I'arris  proclaimeil  that  "  tlie  Devil 
hat'i  Itec'U  I'aized  amoni,'  us,  and  his  ra^'e  is  vehement  and  terrible,  and  when  he 
siiali  be  silenced  the  Lord  only  knows."  The  Jail  of  Salem  was  crowded  with 
Essex  County  people  who  had  been  denounced  foi' diabolical  couununications.  19 
]iersions  were  hunj,'  on  (iallows  Hill,  and  (Jilcs  (.'ory  was  iiressed  to  death.  Cotton 
Mather  was  a  leader  in  these  per.seeutioiis,  which  lasted  for  1(5  months,  until  the 
^;overnment  becan:e  aware  of  its  error,  and  released  the  scores  of  prisoners  from 
the  jail.  In  partial  extenuation  of  this  sti'an^e  delusif)n,  it  may  be  said  that  fiord 
Chief  Justice  Hale,  Loid  Bacon,  Sir  William  Blackstone,  Addison,  Johnson,  and 
other  distinj^uished  scholars  believed  in  the  reality  of  witchcraft  and  the  pro- 
jiriety  of  its  imnishment  by  death.  Cjuarler  of  the  jiopulation  of  Salem  left  the 
town  in  painc,  and  after  all  was  over,  I'arris  acknowledged  his  error,  and  was 
dismissed  by  his  church. 

In  1774  Cov.  Ga^^c  ordered  the  removal  of  the  lej,dslature  from  the  closed  port 
of  Boston  to  Salem.  In  1770  a  Jhitish  regiment  landed  here,  designing  to  destroy 
some  military  stores  in  N.  Salem,  but  they  failed  to  do  it.  I'onr  Essex  County 
regiments  were  enrolled  in  the  Continental  army,  while  the  lisheinien  of  Salem 
armed  their  craft  and  became  privateersnien,  by  whom  44.')  Jiritish  vessels  were 
taken  during  the  Revolution.  After  the  war,  E.  H.  Derby  built  a  fleet  of  fine 
ships,  an<l  opened  the  East  India  trade,  which  by  181S  engaged  53  Salem  ships; 
and  from  this  era  most  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  city  dates  its  origin. 

Salem  has  given  to  the  State,  Senator  Cabot,  and  Timothy  Pickering,  a  Con- 
tinental otticer,  who  became  sucee.ssively  IJ.  S.  I'ostmaster-General  (17'Jl-5), 
Se(!retary  of  War,  and  Secretary  of  State  (17!^*^-  1800).  He  was  also  a  U.  S.  Sena- 
tor, ISO;}- 11.  (iov.  IJradstroet,  "the  Nestor  of  New  England,"  and  Gov.  Endi- 
cott,  spent  much  of  their  lives  in  Salem.  Gen.  Israel  Putnam,  of  the  Continental 
Army  ;  Gen.  F.  W.  Lander,  mortally  wounded  after  leading  in  some  brilliant 
actions  of  the  War  for  the  Uidon  (18(52)  ;  and  V.  T.  WaM,  commander  of  the 
armies  of  China  until  he  was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Ningpo  in  18(j2,  were  all 
natives  of  Salem.  Also  were  born  here,  John  Rogers,  the  sculptor  ;  N.  Bowditch, 
the  mathematician,  astronomer,  <ind  author  of  "The  Practical  Navigator";  N. 
I.  Bowditch,  the  antiquarian  ;  J.  Prince  and  N.  Adams,  clergymen  ;  Benjanuii 
Pierce,  the  mathenuitician  ;  the  eminent  int  rdiants,  Derby,  Crowninshield,  Phil- 
lips, and  Gray  ;  Maria  S.  Cummins,  the  novelist ;  John  Pickering,  the  philologist ; 
J.  B.  Felt,  the  annalist ;  and  W.  H.  Prescott,  born  170(5,  the  author  of  histories 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the  Coiaiuost  of  Mexico,  the  Conquest  of  Peru,  and 
Philip  II.  of  Spain,  amounting  to  11  octavo  volumes,  and  translated  into  5  Euro- 
])ean  languages.  Nathaniel  Ilawthorne,  one  of  the  sweetest  and  juuest  of  Ameri- 
can jirose-writcrs,  was  born  at  Salem  in  1804.  After  graduating  trom  liowdoiu 
College  (1S2.'J),  he  settled  in  Salem,  and  from  18:-i8  to  1841  was  in  the  Boston  Cus- 
tom House.     In  1841  he  joined  the  Brook  Farm  Conununity,  and  from  1843  to 


MARBLEIIEAD. 


llunte  a?.     200 


port 

|sti«>y 
)ui>ty 

(Ull'llV 

were 
tiue 
[lips ; 


ISJ  ho  livoil  at  CoTiconl.  1840-. "iO  lio  wns  Hurvt'yor  <>f  tliP  ^Di-f  of  SaltMii,  nml 
\s:,',\-  ")7  lit'  lit'liltlif  U.  H.  Citiisulatc  at  Livrrpiw)!.  He  dicil  at  Plymniuh,  \.  H., 
May  10,  IHdl.  Tlie  most  important  of  his  works  of  romaiici'  ami  misicllaiiits  arc, 
•'Tin?  Mcarlft  liCtter,"  —  a  weird  and  powerlul  romamcof  liie  early  colonial  days 
of  Massachusetts,  —and  "The  Marlile  Faun,"  wliose  scene  is  laid  in  llonie,  rcru- 
gia,  nml  the  Ajipenines. 

Four  lirancli  railroa<ls  run  out  fron>  Halem. 

A  lim- crosses  the  towns  of  IVabody  and  Lynnfleld,  to  'Wakefield  on  the  Roston 
and  Maine  U.  U.  4  trains  <laily  puss  into  Dostou  by  this  route,  and  over  the  rails 
of  tlie  last-named  company. 

Tlie  Salem  and  Lowell  li.  R.  (pertaining,' to  the  Boston  and  l.owell  11.  II.)  run.s 
from  the  st.ition  near  Salem  Court  House,  to  I^owcll  (Jl  .M).  Fare,  so  c.  ;  :i  trains 
daily  each  way.  This  lim;  crosses  I'e.ihoily  to  Ipswich  Hiver,  wliicji  it  followi;  for 
(1-7  M.,  an<l  then  jiasses  throU;,'h  tlm  towns  of  N.  Ueadint;,  Wilmin^,'ton,  and 
Tewkshury,  to  Lowell. 

The,  Lawrence  Uranch  of  the  Kastern  II.  R.  runs  3  trains  daily  each  way  l»e- 
tween  Salem  and  Lawrence,  through  the  towns  of  Danvers,  Mitldletim,  and  N. 
Andover. 

Another  branch  runs  to  Murblehcad  (4  M.),  passing  the  Forest  River  Lead 
Works. 

Marblehead  (Kldn'Jr/r  Ilmise,  Forsyth  Ilioise)  is  built  on  a  pcMiinsula 
of  3,70(»  acres,  very  rocky  and  uneven.  It  was  ineorporated  in  llio'),  atitl 
a  clironicler  of  that  time  calls  it  "  Marniaracria,  oppiiUun  niaritiinutn, 
saxis  alumdaiiH."  Wliitelield  gazed  in  a.stonisliin(!nt  iii)on  its  rooky  hills 
and  said,  "  Pray,  •where  do  they  hury  their  dead  ? "  The  town  has  about 
8,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  narrow,  deep  liarbor. 
It  was  formerly  engaged  in  the  fi.sheries,  but  has  latterly  turned  its  atten- 
tion to  the  shoe-manufactory.  A  full  regiment  marched  from  this  town 
to  the  Continental  Army  ;  the  crew  of  the  Constitution  frigate  was  mostly 
enlisted  here  ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  town  sent  more  men  (in  jirojjortion 
to  its  population)  to  the  Secession  War  than  any  other  place  in  tlio 
Union.  There  are  many  quaint  old  colonial  hou.ses  here,  especial'.y  the 
bank  building,  which  was  raised  in  17C8for  an  aristocratic  mansion,  and  is 
but  little  altered.  One  of  the  churches  was  built  in  1714,  and  is  still 
used  for  services. 

In  June,  1813,  there  occurred  a  desperate  naval  battle  ofT  thi?!  coast,  between  the 
American  frigate  "Chesapeake  "  and  the  Hritisli  frigate;  "Shannon."  The  ves.sels 
were  of  about  equal  size,  and  the  "  Clie.sajteako  "  hul  saileil  from  Boston  (with  a 
picked-up  (!rew)  in  answer  to  a  challenge  from  tlie  "  Shannon,"  The  latter  vessel 
was  splendidly  handled,  and  after  a  few  close  broadsides,  she  ran  alongside  the 
"Chesapeake"  and  earned  her  by  boarding,  after  a  sliarj)  resistance  on  the  decks. 
The  Anuiriean  Cai)t.,  Lawrence,  was  mortally  wounded  and  carried  below,  his 
last  words  being,  "  Doni  give  up  the  shi]>."  The  Knglish  Capt.,  Broke,  was  so 
badly  wounded  that  he  retired  from  the  sei-viee,  atl(;r  carrying  the  "Chesapeake" 
into  Halifax  in  triumph,  and  being  knighted  for  his  gallant  achievement. 

Elbridge  Gerry  was  bom  at  Marblehead  in  1744.  He  was  a  Congressman, 
177()-8j,  and  1789-0:J,  and  signed  tlie  Declaration  of  Independence,  but  refusiHl 
to  sign  the  U.  S.  Constitution  (1787).  In  1812  he  was  elected  Vice-President  of 
the  U.  S. 

At  this  town  is  laid  the  scene  of  Whittier's  poem,  "Skipper  Ireson's  Ride." 
Many  years  ago  Capt.  Ireson  refused  to  take  off  .some  of  his  townsmen  from  a 
drifting  wreck,  because  of  the  expense  of  feeding  them  all  the  way  home.  On 
his  return  the  citizens  tarred  and  feathered  liim,  and  rode  him,  in  <»  j  of  his  own 
boats,  to  Salem  and  back,  he  reniaiuiug  silent  and  unresisting.  Wuv-nee  the  re- 
frain. 


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250    lioiif,'  .17. 


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"  Olfl  Floyd  Irmoii.  for  hln  hnni  hcnrt, 
'I'urri'd  iimi  ti'iitlicrt'il  iiihI  ciirricil  in  u  cart 
By  the  woiiiuii  ut'  Miirblclic-u't." 

In  177.'i  fliiH  town  was  finly  hccoikI  t<>  Hontdu  in  iHiimlafion.  Tim  Mt?i  Mrs>«. 
('i>ntiii<'ntal  lie;,'.,  riiiscfl  licit!  and  in  .Salcin,  was  niic  nf  tin!  I'lile  cnrim  uC  tint 
army,  aii<l  was  caljid  "  tin-  ani|iliil)i(iii.s."  It  ('•  rrifil  tin;  aimy  arinss  tlit-  ICast 
ItiviT  by  nii,'lit  altt-r  tin-  <l>t(at  on  L<»nK'  Islaml,  led  tin-  van  in  <'i«).Hsiti^,'  the  Dela- 
ware to  tlm  iMittlt!  of  'rnnton,  ami  t'HC(Mt»<l  Hui't^nyno'H  captive  nnny  tliroii;,'li 
New  Kii;,'lan(l.  'I'Ih-  .Marlii<liia<l  luivatiTis  'iiil  ijk  at  service  ;  one  nf  tiieni  look  u 
Miitisli  ship  oil'  Mostnii,  IjkIcii  with  I.Mtn  {ons  of  |  >\V(|er  and  other  stores.  Tlin 
"St.  Helena,"  Kt,  while  convoyjn;,'  a  llct  to  lla^ana,  was  attacked  a)  ni^^ht  hy 
tilt)  Miitisli  liri;;,  '•  Lively."  At  tiawn,  niter  a  loiiji  linht,  she  IoimhI  herself  nmleV 
the  ^'iins  of  the  line  itf-liattle-ship  "  .li.iiiter."  The  captive  Maililclit -itlers  wen; 
put  on  hoanl  the  "  Lively."  ami  PJ  days  later  they  ro-e  aiitl  took  lier,  ami  run  into 
Havana.  Tht-  iMiiliarj;!)  (ISKi)  iiiiiieil  the  inaiitiiiie  liMsiiies.s  of  Marlilehcml,  ami 
at  the  close  of  the  War  of  ISPJ,  t,  »i»  of  her  .sailors  were  iji  Hritish  prisoriH. 

Marlil«*hciul  Neck  is  aemsH  the  liarlior  (2  M.  hy  road,) ami  is  nsnally  ilotteil 
with  while  Icnts  tliii  iii;f  the  siiniiner.  Tinker's  IslamI  (.sec.  to  the  IS.)  is  nott  il  for 
its  ciiniier-llshin;,'.  Massachusetts  May  was  stticketl  with  cniiiierM  (Itlack  tlsh)  1>y 
Ntiiiic    Mttstdi'aiis,   and    tlicst!  tleljcioiis  lish    lia\f   piti|ia;,'ateil   rapidly. 

].<o>v<;II  iMlantl  is  a  small  islaml  5  M.  from  SalcMi,  wliiidi  is  oecnpled  V>y  n 
lititel  aifoiiiiiioilatin;,'  .'tnO  (guests.  The  islaml  covers  hut  '2->  rocky  acres,  mid  lias 
gootl  sea-air,  with  views  of  L'ape  Ann,  Ikverly,  the  Satan  l{ocks,  ami  Marhlehtiil 
with  its  trim  little  fort.  A  st'jainer  run.s  out  wciveral  times  daily  from  Marhltdioail 
(2  M.). 

After  leaving  Salem  the  main  lim^  passes  tlirouj^Ii  a  tunnel  GOO  ft.  loiif,', 
and  crosses  Norlli  Ilivcr  on  a  long  bridge,  lictweeii  which  and  the  highway 
l)ri<lge,  a  few  rods  down  the  stream,  a  fleet  of  yachts  is  moored  for  8 
months  of  the  year.  Station,  /hirrli/,  an  ancient  village  which  was 
settled  in  1000,  luit  is  now  ehielly  l<iiown  for  its  extensive  shoe-faclories, 
which  are  concentratetl  alxuit  the  ])ulilic  s(|iiare  near  the  station.  Lathioji 
St.  (named  aftei-  C'apt.  Lalhrop,  a  native  of  l.'everly,  who  fell  at  the  head 
of  "the  Flower  of  Essex,"  in  battle  near  Deerfield,  in  1675)  affords  a  fine 
marine  promenade,  with  an  extensive  viev/  over  the  bay,  and  its  forts  ami 
i.slands. 

Nathan  Dane,  wlio  rosidotl  here  from  177'>  to  lS3r),  was  an  rniinpnt  jnrist.  In 
1787  ho  inlrodiicetl  ami  fouj^lit  throng;!!  ( "t in^^res.s  a  bill  excludinj^  slavery  Ibrever 
from  the  vast  tloinain  N.  W.  of  the  Ohio  Uiver.  lioliert  Hantoiil,  Jr.,  a  iiowcrfnl 
and  popnlar  politician,  of  remarkable  purity  of  life  and  iiriiiciiiles,  was  btmi  liere 
in  ISO'),  lie  lillcd  the  nnexjiircd  term  of  Senator  Webster  in  IS.^l.  Dr.  A.  P. 
Peabody,  the  eminent  Unitarian  divine,  was  also  a  native  of  IJevcrly. 

Station,  Wcnham  and  Jfnnultnn.  Wcnham  was  settled  about  1636, 
and  its  foundation  was  celebrated  by  Rev.  Hugh  IVters,  who  preached  on 
the  borders  of  its  lake,  from  the  text,  "  At  Eiion,  near  to  Salem,  because 
there  was  much  water  there."  The  town  was  called  Enon  for  many  years. 
An  English  tourist  of  16S6  wrote,  '' Wenham  is  a  delicious  paradise;  it 
abounds  with  rural  i)leasures,  and  I  would  choose  it  above  all  other  towns 
ill  America  to  dwell  in."  Wenham  Lake  has  a  world-wide  reputation  for 
its  ice,  which  is  sliipped  to  the  remotest  ports.  The  ice  is  kept  free  from 
snow,  and  is  cut  when  a  foot  thick,  an  acre  producing  about  1,000  tons, 
wliich  is  stored  in  great  buildings  near  the  shore.  These  ice-houses  (seen 
to  the  1.  from  the  track)  have  double  walls  of  wood,  filled  in  with  saw- 


head 
a  t\ue 
ts  and 


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t'orfvcr 
owcrl'iil 
u'u  hvva 
A.  V. 


1636, 
led  on 
iccaiise 

years, 
dise;  it 

towns 
tion  for 
from 
10  tons, 
:>s  (seen 
;li  saw- 


ii'swini. 


Run w  37.    257 


<lu.st,  and  prosfrve  the  ioo  through  tlie  heats  of  summer.  Sidn  tra»'ks  run 
to  the  iie  houses  by  whieh  it  is  cjinied  throughout  this  purt  of  the 
country,  or  to  the  hliips  at  IJostoii.  SuU'in  gets  its  wat»'r  supply  froni 
this  hike  (the  largo  reservoir  is  seen  on  a  hill  to  the  S.  E. ),  and  the  water 
nnist  bo  good  acconling  to  one  writer's  d  prinri  r'-asoning,  -  '*  of  the  w)ft- 
ness  and  purity  of  the  waters  of  Essex  County  there  ran  lie  no  doubt, 
for  its  ladies  aro  noted  for  their  bloom  and  I;eauty."  (Jail  Hamilton  (MisH 
Mary  A.  Dodge)  resides  in  the  town  of  llanulton  (named  alter  Alexander 
Hamilton),  a  (juiet  farming  village  about  1^  M.  N.  E.  of  the  station.  A 
side-track  leatls  hero  to  the  1.  to  a  largo  and  favorite  Methodist  eamp- 
ground,  where  many  thousands  congregate  in  the  month  of  August.  It  is 
1  M.  from  the  station,  and  its  grove,-,  are  idled  with  small  cottages,  *60 
acres  of  land  are  included  in  this  Asbury  Campground.) 

A  branch  railroad  runs  frtiui  'Veiihaiii  to  Ks^ex,  .i  small  s)iipt)iiili1!ng  village 
near  the  sea.  lltTe  was  Ixnii,  in  IT'.Ki,  Unfiis  l,'li(iatt',  a  prnf(«iiinl  ami  skilful 
lawyer,  ami  a  Inilliaiit  ami  prrsuasivi!  uialor,  who  was  U.  >S.  Senator  in  18-41-6, 
uud  afterwards  Attorney-Ueneral  of  the  Stato. 

The  main  line  now  crosses  Ipswich  River,  and  stops  at  Ipswioh 
{AyiiwuDi  Iliiuse  ;  restaurant  in  the  station).  John  Norton,  ot  whom 
Cotton  Mather  aays  "  he  spoke  like  Hortensius,  and  wrote  like  Abericus," 
was  the  pastor  of  this  village  from  1636  to  1652.  His  colleague  was 
Nathaniel  Ward,  the  author  of  the  "Simple  Cobbler  of  Agawam,"  who 
was  rector  of  Stondon  Marey,  Es.sex  County,  Englaiul,  until  silenced  by 
Archbishop  Laud  for  non-conformity.  Capt.  .lohn  Smith,  in  1614,  spoke 
of  **  the  many  cornfields  and  delightful  groves  of  Agawam,"  but  in  1632 
a  lleet  of  100  canoes  tilled  with  fierce  Tarratines  from  the  Peiiob.scot  laid 
waste  this  fair  Indian  village  and  destroyed  many  of  its  people.  So  the 
coast  was  clear,  and  John  Winthrop  (afterwards  founder  of  New  London 
ami  first  Gov.  of  Connecticut)  bought  the  town  of  the  Sagamore  Mascouo- 
niet  for  ,^  100,  and  settled  here  in  1633. 

"The  people  are  noted  for  their  hospitality  ;  in  summer  the  sea-win  I 
blows  cool  over  its  healthy  hills;  and  take  it  for  all  in  all,  there  is  not  a 
better  preserved  specimen  of  a  Puritan  town  in  the  ancient  Common- 
wealth." The  chief  village  is  situated  on  the  r.  of  the  track,  on  both  sides 
of  the  Ipswich  River,  whieh  is  crossed  by  two  stone  bridges,  one  of  which 
dates  from  1764.  The  County  Hou.se  of  Correction  and  Insane  Asylum 
are  located  here,  and  the  town  has  a  tine  public  library,  which  was  given 
by  one  of  its  citizens.  There  are  a))out  3,700  inhabitants  in  the  town, 
which  has  some  manufactures  and  3  neat  churches.  This  is  the  seat  of 
Ipswich  Female  Seminary,  an  old  and  famous  school  "  where  Andover 
theological  students  are  wont  to  take  unto  themselves  wives  of  the 
daughters  of  the  Puritans." 

A  few  miles  to  the  E.,  d.owu  th    river,  is  the  North  Ridge  on  Great 

Q 


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258    Route  37. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


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Neck,  and  Ipswicli  Bluff,  a  favorite  summer  campiag-groimd  for  fishing- 
parties. 

Station,  Roidcy  (the  chief  village  is  over  a  mile  S.  W. ),  a  town  largely- 
composed  of  salt  marsh.  It  was  settled  in  1638  by  a  nomadic  church,  led 
by  Ezekiel  Rogers,  who  had  been  rector  of  Rowley  in  Yorkshire,  and  was 
silenced  for  Puritanism  (non-comforniity.)  In  1G50  he  died,  leaving  his 
library  to  Harvard  College,  a'nl  his  estate  to  the  Rowly  Church.  The 
first  cioth  made  in  America  was  turned  out  from  works  erected  by  these 
immigrants.  Tlie  line  now  runs  across  a  wide  and  desolate  moor,  crosses 
the  Parker  River,  passes  tlie  Oldtown  Hills  on  the  r.,  crosses  the  Newbury- 
port  R.  R.  (Boston  and  Maine),  and  stops  at 

Newburyport. 

Hotels. — *I.Iem*man  House,  82.50  a  day;  Ocean  House.  Horse-Cars  to 
Amesbury  by  way  of  Merriniac  St  Statjes  to  Exeter  (75  cts.),  W.  Amesbury, 
Uavei'iiill,  a;id  (in  summer)  to  Salisbury  Beach  aiul  Plum  Island  13eaeh.  Steamers 
to  Salit;b'.iry  Point  in  summer. 

Newburyport  is  an  ancient  sea-city,  beautifully  situated  on  a  declivity 
facing  the  Merriniac  River,  and  within  3  M.  of  the  ocean,  which  is  seen 
from  its  wharves  and  house-tops.  It  has  about  12,000  inhabitants,  and  a 
valuation  (in  1S70)  of  $7,427,700.  There  are  16  churches,  4  banks,  and 
a  daily  and  two  w^eekly  newspapers.  The  chief  vetail  trade  is  carriotl  on 
in  State  St.,  while  tiie  wholesale  trade  is  on  the  water-front,  which  is 
traversed  ))y  a  marginal  steam-railway  connected  with  the  Eastern  Rail- 
road track.  Since  the  absorption  of  foreign  commerce  by  Boston,  New- 
buryport has  be^n  forced  to  adopt  the  policy  of  the  other  small  cities  of 
the  coast,  and  sustain  itself  by  manufactories,  while  the  old  marine  aris- 
tocracy has  isolated  itself  from  the  new  regime.  The  decadence  of  the 
city  is  shown  by  its  decrease  in  j^opulation  between  1860  and  1870,  which 
amounted  to  over  500.  The  streets  are  generally  broad,  straight,  and  quiet, 
while  great  numbers  of  shade-trees  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  place, 
being  cared  for  undcr^the  provisions  of  a  fund  left  lor  that  purpose  by  a 
public-spirited  citizen.  The  streets  which  run  up  from  the  river  are  short, 
and  terminate  at  High  St.,  a  broad  and  umbrageous  avenue  which  runs 
along  the  crest  of  the  ridge  and  is  lined  with  mancions  of  the  olden  time. 
One  of  these  (near  the  head  of  Federal  St.)  is  the  home  of  Caleb  Cushing, 
the  eminent  jurist  and  diplomatist.  Near  the  head  of  Olive  St.  is  the 
mansion  formerly  occupied  by  Lord  Timothy  Dexter,  an  eccentric 
merchant  who  made  a  large  fortune  by  singular  ventures  (sending  a  cargo 
of  warming-pans  to  the  West  Intlies,  and  other  speculations  of  a  lik., 
nature).  On  High  St.,  near  State,  is  a  pond  covering  six  acres,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  mall  and  terraced  promenade,  on  which  the  Essex  County 
Court  House  is  situated.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  Putnam  F'-ee  School,  a 
high  school  of  wide  reputation,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  while  St. 


J 


I 


NEWBURYPORT. 


nuutc  37.     259 


'r 


Ik'V 


^ 


Paul's  Episcopal  Church  f.nd  the  graceful  GoMiie  Chapel  cf  St.  Anne  are 
l)ut  a  short  distance  beyond  (on  High,  near  Mtuket  St.).  Tlie  City  Hall 
is  a  large,  plain  building  fronting  on  Brown  Square,  near  which  are  the 
North  Church,  ihe  1st.  Baptist,  and  the  Unitari:in  (the  latter  having  a 
tall  and  gracefid  spire). 

The  Public  Library  was  founded  by  Josiali  Little  and  well  endowed  by 
George  Feabody.  It  occupies  the  old  Tracy  mansion  (on  State  St.>  where 
Washington,  Lafayette,  and  other  noble  guests  have  men  received  in  the 
palmy  days  of  the  place.  The  two  upper  stories  are  now  foi'me(\  into  a 
hall,  containing  about  13,000  books,  while  on  the  lower  story  is  a  large 
jmblic  reading-room  (magazuies  and  newspapers).  The  Marine  Museum 
(open  daily;  on  State  St. )  contains  a  collection  of  curiosities  brought  in  by 
the  ships  of  Newburyport.  Besides  the  usual  mementoes  of  distant  lands 
and  peoples,  there  are  shown  some  very  elaborate  and  handsome  models 
of  ships. 

Oak  Hill  Cemetery  is  a  beautiful  rural  burying-ground  on  State  St., 
beyond  High.  It  is  entered  tlirough  a  noblo  granite  gateway,  bearing  the 
inscription,  "  Until  the  day  break,  and  the  shadows  flee  away."  State 
St.  runs  cut  into  the  country,  and  is  prolonged  (under  the  name  of  the 
Newburyport  Turnpike)  through  Salem  and  Lyini  to  Boston.  It  was 
formerly  the  road  traversed  by  the  great  northern  and  eastern  stage-lines. 
The  Old  South  (Presbyterian)  Church  is  on  Federal  St.,  and  has  long 
since  entered  upon  its  second  century.  Li  a  vault  under  the  pulpit  of 
this  church  are  the  mortal  remains  of  George  Whitelield,  the  foumler  of 
the  Calvinistic  Methodists,  who  died  in  Newburyport  in  1770.  Tliis 
church  also  has  a  fine  whispering-gallery,  only  equalled  by  the  one  at  St. 
Paul's,  Ijondon  (the  se.xton  lives  in  tlie  small  house  next  to  the  church). 
The  two-story  wooden  house  back  of  the  Old  South  was  the  birthplace 
of  VV  illiani  Lloyd  Garrison. 

The  river  ami  harbor  and  noi'jrhhorinf^  sea  afTord  fine  opportunitios  fi)r  sailing 
au'l  fisliiuf^,  in  the  suimiioi-,  wliicJi  are  utilized  by  a  large  Ihiet  of  i)leiisure-buats. 
A  favorite  drive  is  to  the  Chain  Brithji'.  (about  ;{  M.  up  river),  a  i>la('e  f)f  rare 
natural  beauty,  with  the  lari^e  stone  imuisiou,  "  Ilawkswood,"  on  one  bank,  iui<l 
on  the  other  the  cast  Hated  and  far-viewinj^  house  occnpied  for  several  si'usons  by 
Sir  Edward  Tliorntun,  the  British  Ambassador,  .\niesbiuy  is  but  a  short  dis- 
tanee  beyond  the  hridj^e,  while  the  river-iwid  to  Haverhill  i)asses  throu!j;h  pleas- 
ing scenery.  "  The  iMnrds  "  ava  by  the  river-side  above  tlie  bridge,  and  excur- 
sions are  frequently  made  t(»  their  cool  and  se([uestered  groves. 

The  Devix's  Den  is  an  old  excavation  in  the  limestone  ledjj;es,  about  2  M.  8.  of 
the  city  (by  State  St.).  Asbest()S,  amianthus,  and  serpentine  are  found  there. 
bummer  Academy  is  al>out  3  M.  Ix'yond  this  iM)int,  and  is  .in  ancient  and  famous 
school,  which  was  fountled  and  enilowed  by  Gov.  DnnuMcr  in  !".')(>.  Near  tiie 
Academy  is  Dunnner  Avenue,  with  the  line.-;t  lincss  of  elm-trees  in  Kssex  tJounty. 

3-4  M.  from  the  city  is  the  ancient  and  i»ietnres(ine  Indian  Hill  mansion  of 
Hen  Perley  Poore,  the  author  and  iournalist.  This  brttail  and  nmblin^f  old  hnuso 
may  be  called  the  Abl»tsFord  of  New  Knuland,  so  many  arc  the  historic  curiosi- 
ties which  have  been  gathered  here.  The  old  (Jarrison  House  is  near  Oldtowu 
Green,  and  is  a  well-pre.served  si>eeimen  of  th(!  massive  di-fimsive  archittniture  (jf 
the  early  colonial  days.  It  was  built  during  the  IVth  century,  and  has  sulTercd 
b'lt  litt!'  cliuu.re. 


20O    Routes?. 


SALISBURY  BEACH. 


>'■ . 
'i 


1  it. 


V  'v' 


(   • 


The  continuation  of  High  Street  by  OMto\vn  Green  to  Pipe-Stave  Hill  (wlii(  h 
i'omnmnds  a  broad  sea-view)  and  Parker  River,  affords  a  tirive  throuKh  .»  well- 
settled  rural  distri(;t,  which  has  an  English  air,  in  the  earefuliiess  of  its  cultiva- 
tion and  the  antiquity  of  its  houses.  Phnv  Ishiml  is  2-S  .M.  K.  of  Newhurypoit, 
and  is  "a  wihl  and  fantastic  sand-beach,  reaching  to  Ipswich,  10-12  M.  distant, 
and  thrown  up,  by  tlio  joint  jtower  of  winds  and  waves,  into  the  llu-usand  wanton 
figures  of  a  snow-drift."  It  is  joinenl  to  the  city  by  a  causeway,  and  has  a  hotel 
and  two  lighthouses,  near  the  N.  end.  The  beach  slo))es  rapidly,  and  having  a 
strong  unc'crtow,  is  not  used  for  bathing,  but  the  breaking  of  the  sea  on  this  bold 
shore  after  a  storm  affords  a  grand  sig!<t-. 

Salisbury  Beacli  (stages  setni-daily  in  summer)  is  4  M.  from  Nev- 
l)uryport,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Menimac.  The  funning  town  of  Salis- 
bury is  traversed,  after  crossing  tlie  river.  This  town  was  settled  in 
1638,  and  named  (in  IGtO)  in  con)pliment  to  its  first  pastor,  who  came 
from  Salisbury  in  England.  Many  ancient  houses  are  to  be  !en  here; 
among  othv-rs  the  birthi)laccs  of  Caleb  Cu.shing  and  of  Abigail,  the 
mother  of  Daniel  Webster  ;  also  the  audience-room  of  the  royal  commis- 
sioners of  1699,  and  the  provincial  boundary  council  in  1737.  A  long 
plank-road  runs  across  the  marshes  to  the  beach  {Atlantic  House),  which 
is  6  M.  long,  extending  from  the  Merrimac  to  the  Hampton  River.  The 
sand  is  hard,  smooth,  and  gently  sloi)ir,g,  and  is  well  adapted  for  long 
drives,  and  for  bathing  (there  is  no  iindertow).  The  low  ridge  of  sand 
above  the  high-tide  line  is  taken  up  by  a  line  of  cottages  which  extends 
for  over  a  mile  along  the  shore.  Many  tents  are  pitched  on  the  sands 
during  the  summer,  and  Whittier's  poem,  "The  Tent  o:i  the  Beach," 
well  describes  this  mode  of  life  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
beach  (where  its  scene  was  laid).  1^  M.  S.  of  the  Atlantic  House  is  the 
mouth  of  the  Merrimac  River,  with  the  picturesque  I'uins  of  an  abandoned 
fort  (built  to  command  the  entrance),  while  the  city  of  Newburyport  is 
in  full  sight  up  the  river.  Plum  Island  and  Cape  Ann  are  soon  on  the  S. 
from  the  beach,  and  Boar's  Head,  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  and  Mt.  Agamcnti- 
cns  on  the  N.  and  N.  E.  Following  a  custom  which  is  now  two  centuries 
old,  the  people  of  the  surrounding  towns  congregate  here  every  year  on  a 
day  late  in  August,  and  enjoy  themselves.  Sometimes  more  than  25,000 
people  assemble  on  those  days. 

Newbury  was  kittled  in  lC3r)  by  a  colony,  under  the  pastor  Thomas  Parker,^ 
which  entered  the  river  since  calleci  Parker,  in  the  shi))  "  Hector."  There  are  but 
few  towns  in  New  England  whose  annals  are  so  peaceful  as  are  those  of  Newbury, 
whicii  in  the  238  years  of  its  histovy  has  not  felt  the  tread  ofa  hostile  foot,  nor  seen 
the  flash  of  a  hostile  gun.  The  interests  of  the  maritime  villfige  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Merrimac  were  found  to  be  so  di'!<;rent  from  those  of  the  farming  town  of 
Newbury,  thai  Newburyi)ort  received  a  separate  organization  in  1764,  In  1772, 
S)0  vessels  were  built  here,  but  the  Revolution  and  the  drain  of  men  for  the  Es.sex 
County  regiments  (dieeked  the  itn'sjieiity  of  the  jilace,  and  in  1788  oidy  3  vessels 
were  Ijuilt.     President  Dwigiit  .says  of  the  village  in  170(5,  "Indeed,  an  air  of 

1  Pnrker  studied  nt  Mngdnlon  Collof?*'.  Oxford,  nnd  cnrly  distinguished  himself  !)y  writing 
two  wondertul  Liitin  l)()oks,  —  "  I)e  'rr..''iictione  IVci-nforis  *'  nnd  "  Mtthodiis' Divinoo 
Griitiiie."  \VI  !Mi  (lid  und  blind,  "  the  IIoiiilt  (.f  New  Eiitrland,"  lie  hud  aSiinfi  eontroverny 
with  President  Chauucey.  "  llu  went  uutu  thu  iaunortuls,  iu  April,  1077,  in  the  y2ad  year 
of  his  age." 


t 


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NEWBURYrORT. 


Routes?.    2G1 


^ 


Mi 


') 


^ 


Wenlth,  taste,  and  elefjanrc  is  8i»roacl  over  tliis  beautiful  spot,  witli  a  choerfiilnrssi 
imd  brilliaiu'y  to  which  I  know  no  rival."  Washington,  Lafayette,  TaUeyraini. 
Louirt  l'hilii)l)e  of  Frunee,  and  other  famous  men  wt-re  entertained  liere  l>y  tlie 
aristocratic  families.  An  extensive  forei^^n  commerce  was  lirmly  cslablishrci,  nnd 
In  1807  tlie  tonnage  of  the  i)ort  was  over  ;{0,0()0.  The  Embarjif)  fell  with  cnishinj; 
force  upon  this  maritime  industry,  and  the  '.ireat  Fire  oC  bSll,  wliicli  swcjit  away 
lt>  acres  from  the  mo.st  denstdy  buili  cjuarter,  checked  tiie  itrosjicrity  of  tlie  town, 
and  reduced  its  population  to  C,.'5S.S.  its  valuation  in  ISIO  wasaliout  tlie  smimc  as 
in  1870.  The  town  grew  slowly,  and  its  Merrimac-biiilt  sliijjs  were  famous  tliroiigii- 
oiit  the  worhl  for  tleetness,  streu;,'th,  ami  symmetry,  and  were  made  in  large  num- 
bers until  the  decline  of  American  commerce.  The  coltoii-mauiifactuie  was  com- 
menced here  in  18.50,  and  ij  now  tlie  leading  husiuffss  of  tiie.  place,  altiiougli  con- 
siderable attention  is  paid  to  the  coasting  trade,  and  tliere  is  a  large  lishing  (Icet 
belonging  to  the  port.  Tiie  carriage  bridge  acro.ss  the  Merrimac  was  built  in 
1827,  Jind  the  Ciiain  Bridge,  alx  ve  tiie  city,  was  tlie  lii"st  suspension  bridge  in 
America,  and  the  second  in  the  world.  Tlie  great  turnpike  running  to  Maldeu 
Eridge  and  Boston  was  linislied  in  l.SDO,  at  an  expeiisi;  of  s  4-Jo,000. 

Among  tlie  natives  of  Newlmryixirt  were,  the  lawyers,  diaries  Jackson,  Simon 
Greenleaf,  John  Lowell,  Joseidi  Blunt,  and  Theopliiliis  I'arsun.s  ;  tlie  plivsicians, 
James  Jackson  and  W.  Ingalls  ;  tlie  inventors,  Jacob  IVrkins  and  Kdmund  Blunt  ; 
the  i)Octs,  Lucy  Ilnoi-cr  and  H.  C.  Knight  ;  th"  autliors,  George  Wood,  tieorgc 
Lunt,  S.  L.  Knaiiii,  and  Hannah  F.  Lee  ;  tlie  divines,  J.  (ireeiilcaf,  Bislioj)  Clarke, 
(Jardnfr  Spring,  U.  R.  Xoyes,  and  Stejilien  H.  Tyng  ;  the  generals,  Michael  Jack- 
son (Revolutionary  War,  commander  of  the  Stli  Mass.),  ami  N.  T  Ja>-'kson  (Secession 
War) ;  and  the  senators,  William  i'lumer  and  Tristram  Ualton.  Among  those  long 
resident  here  were  Haiiiiali  F.  (Jould.  the  ]ioett>ss  ;  J.  B.  Gniigh,  the  teniperanc«! 
orator;  Caleb  Cushing,  Rufus  King,  J   (^  Adams,  and  Harriet'  Frescott  SpoH'ord. 

William  Lloyd  Garrison,  "the  leader  of  the  emancipalioiiist  moveiiKiit  in  i\w 
U.  S."  was  born  at  Newliuryport  in  ISUl.  lie  began  iu  ailvoeate  the  immediate 
abolition  of  sla\ery  about  bS3(),  and  led  the  movement  in  tliat  direction  until  it 
was  accomplished,  bravely  enduring  many  jieisecutions. 

A  short  branch  railroad  leads  from  Newburyi>ort  to  Ameshunj  (two  hotels),  a 
large  and  prosperous  manufacturing  village. 

John  G.  Whittier,  "  the  Quaker  Poet "  (born  at  Haverhill  in  1807)  has  lived  in 
Amesbury  since  l8-!!0.  His  earlier  years  were  spent  in  farming  and  .journalism. 
and  he  was  a  fearless  j)ioneer  of  the  cause  of  Antislavery,  to  whose  advanceiiit^iit 
his  life  was  devoted.  He  is  peculiarly  the  poet  of  New  Fnglaiid,  and  has  written 
admirable  descriptiims  of  its  rural  life  and  society.  The,  ancient  towns  of  N. 
Essex  and  the  surrounding  seas  have  been  illustrated  by  his  legendary  poems, 
especially  by  "Snow-Bound,"  "The  Tent  on  tl.a  Beach,"  and  the  "Ballads  of 
New  England." 

After  leaving  Newburyport,  the  Portland  train  cros.-ios  the  Mcrrim;ic 
River  at  a  high  level,  on  a  costly  and  massive  new  bridge,  1500  ft.  long. 
Fine  views  ?se  afforded  (to  the  r.)  of  tlu-  city  and  river,  with  the  ocean  iu 
the  distance.  Stations,  E.  Sdlisburi/  and  Seabrook,  a  tlnidy  settled  town, 
whose  territory  is  mostly  covered  with  forests  and  salt  marsh,  and  whose 
name  is  derived  from  the  numerons  brooks  which  tlow  through  it  to  the 
sea.  Many  of  the  people  are  engaged  in  making  whale-boats,  and  the 
inhabitants  of  the  seaward  part  of  the  town  (S.  Seabrook)  long  bore  an 
unenviable  reputation.  Tlieir  physiognomy,  dialect,  and  clothing  were 
so  marked  and  tinique  that  they  were  always  recognized  in  the  neighboring 
city  and  designated  as  "Algeiines."  A  religious  and  educational  mission 
was  established  here  about  1866,  and  is  now  self-supporting  ai  d  prolific 
in  benefits.  Seabrook  was  settled  in  1638,  and  was  often  harried  during 
the  Indian  wars. 

Station,  Ilampfon  Falls,  S.  E.  of  the  village  of  the  same  name,  which 


'  t| 


i' . 


262    Route  37. 


HAMPTON   BEACH. 


w 


!? 


IN 


[l     1* 


(  : 


lias  a  large  iiionunient  erected  by  the  State  to  Meshech  Weare,  the  first 

President  of  N.  H.  (1776 -85). 

Dr.  Lang(l(/n,  oliaplain  of  the  N.  H.  regiment  in  the  Loufshurg  expedition, 
received  10,000  acres  of  land  in  N  H.  for  "his  services,  fatigiie.s,  and  dangers." 
He  was  President  of  Harvard  University,  1774  -80,  an(i  pastor  at  Hampton  Falls, 
1781  -lt7,  and  at  his  death  he  left  his  line  library  to  the  village  church.  In  August, 
1737,  the  G  tvernor  of  Mass.  rode  to  this  litthi  h mdet  at  the  head  of  the  Legis- 
lature and  ebcorted  hy  5  trooos  of  horse.  Here,  in  the  George  Tavern,  he  had 
long  conferences  about  the  jiroviiicial  boundaries,  with  the  Governor  and  Legi.s- 
latureof  N.  H.  The  latter  demanded  the  territory  which  now  conij)oses  her  two 
lower  tiers  of  towns,  which  had  been  settled  by  Mass,  men  under  Mass.  chartera. 
The  Governors  failed  to  agree,  and  an  apjieal  was  sent  to  the  King,  setting  forth 
how  "  the  vast,  opuhnit,  and  overgrown  provinco  of  Mass.  was  devouring  the  poor, 
little,  loyal,  distressed  province  of  N.  II."  The  royal  heart  v  ;s  touched,  and  the 
King  commaniled  Mass.  to  surrender  two  tiers  of  towns  (28  in  number)  from  the 
Conn.  River  to  the  sea. 

The  railroad  now  passes  over  long  tracts  of  salt-meadow,  on  the  E,  of 
which  is  Han)}itou  Beach  an  I  the  ocean.  Station,  Hampton,  an  ancient 
village  which  v/as  settled  in  1G38,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Winnicummet, 
and  near  a  block-liouse  erected  by  Mass.  in  1636  to  mark  its  N,  E.  border. 
The  first  settlers  were  from  Norfolk  in  England,  and  were  long  exposed 
to  pitiless  attacks  from  the  Indians.  The  town  is  now  a  quiet  and 
pleasant  land  of  peace  and  pkr.ty,  abounding  in  gray  old  colonial  man- 
sions, and  traversed  by  broad  and  level  roads.  The  village  near  the 
station  ( Union  House,  good)  has  tliree  churches  in  the  ohl  Puritan  archi- 
tecture. Stages  run  from  the  station  to  Hampton  Beaoli,  3  M.  to  tlie 
S.  E.  (*  Boar's  Head  Hotel,  300  guests  ;  *  Leavitt's  Hampton  Beach 
Hotel;  Eagle  House;  and  at  the  Lower  Beach,  the  Ocean  House,  160 
guests;  Couch  Hou.se.)  Besides  the  hotels,  there  '".re  many  small  sunnner 
cottages  on  and  )iear  the  beach.  Boar's  Head  is  a  bold  bluff  70  ft.  high, 
which  projects  ijito  the  sea  from  a  stony  strand,  and  affords  the  best  marine 
views  on  the  N.  H.  coast.  On  the  S.  is  the  long  and  vague  line  of  the 
beaches  which  front  Essex  North  -"nd  stretch  by  Newburyport  to  Cape 
Ann,  while  Mt.  Agamenticus  is  seen  in  the  N.  beyond  Rye  with  its  village 
of  hotels,  and  the  Isles  of  Shoals  are  off  shore  on  the  N.  E.  The  Boar's 
Head  Hotel  is  favorably  situated  on  the  little  grassy  plateau  on  the  bluff, 
and  has  a  fine  sea  view.     (See  Whittier's  poem,  "  Hampton  Beach.") 

From  the  vicinity  of  Boar's  Head  a  sandy  beach  extends  S.  to  Hampton 
River,  where  many  vessels  were  made  in  the  colonial  days.  The  river 
forms  a  safe  harbor  for  coasters,  tliougli  its  entiance  is  fringed  with  rocks 
and  shoals.  Its  clams  are  famous,  and  water-fowl  formerly  abounded, 
while  the  settlement  of  Hampton  was  due  to  the  abundance  of  salt  hay  on 
its  marshes,  Salisbury  Beach  begins  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  river,  and 
extends  to  thj  Merrimac.  At  half  and  low  tide  may  be  seen  the  rocks 
off  shore,  of  which  Whittier  sings  (in  "  The  Wreck  of  Rivermouth  ");  — 

"  Rivermouth  Rocks  ore  fair  to  ace,  <•  «.* 

By  dawn  or  sunset  shone  across, 
When  the  ebb  of  the  sea  lias  left  thorn  free 
To  dry  their  fringes  of  goM-greeu  moss  ; 


» 


RYE  BEACH. 


RoiUe  ST.    263 


:ks 


^ 


"  For  tlicre  the  river  comes  wlndinc  down 
From  snit  scu-int'iulows  mid  iipluiuls  l)rown, 
And  wiivcs  on  lln-outfr  nn'ks  iitouin 
Shout  to  its  wiitors, '  Welcome  Home.' 

"  Once,  in  the  old  Colniiial  days. 

Two  hiindrrd  ^onr?  ivo  nnd  more, 
A  boat  pnilcd  down  flie  wiiulinf?  ways 
Ot  Hampton  River  to  that  low  shore." 

North  Beach  lies  to  the  N.  of  Boar's  Head,  and  wa.s  formerly  lined 
with  fish-houses  from  wliicli  the  hardy  fishermen  put  out  to  sea  in  small 
boats.  A  road  runs  N.  near  this  stony  strand,  to  Little  Boar's  Head  and 
Rye  Beach.  The  beach  at  Hamilton  is  comjiosed,  for  the  most  part,  of 
a  gradual  slope  seaward  of  hard  sand,  airording  tine  facilities  for  surf- 
bathing  and  also  for  driving  (at  low  tide).  Tlie  favorite  drives  from 
Hampton,  inland,  are  to  Exeter,  to  the  rich  fruit-growing  town,  of  Green- 
land, to  the  ancient  village  of  Hampton  Falls,  and  to  Stratham  Hill. 

Tlie  next  railroail  station  is  N,  Hampton,  in  r  sparsely  i)0pulated  farm- 
ing town.  Stages  run  tliroughout  tlie  summer  to  Bye  Beach  ( tlie 
Ocean  House  was  burnt  in  Mircli,  1S73;  *  Farragut  House,  by  Mrs. 
Philbrick  and  Son,  2."50-300  guests,  at  .$3-3.50  a  day;  Sea  View  House, 
new,  accommodating  150  guests;  Washington  House;  the  Su.f  House 
was  burnt  in  October,  1872,  There  are  also  several  first-class  board- 
ing-houses near  the  beach).  Rye  is  the  most  fashionable  of  the  N. 
H.  beaches,  and  presents  an  agreeable  alternation  of  sharp  and  storm- 
worn  ledges  with  strips  of  sand  on  which  bathing  is  safe  and  pleas- 
ant. On  the  S.  is  Little  Boar's  Head,  a  sea-beaten  bluff  on  which 
several  fine  cottages  have  been  built,  together  with  a  large  private 
boarding-house.  A  long,  sandy  beach  stretches  N.  E.  from  Jenness  Beach 
to  Straw's  Point,  which  was  bought  a  few  years  since  by  Gov.  Straw,  and 
is  now  occupied  by  the  fine  seaside  cottages  of  several  N.  H.  gentlemen. 
An  extensive  marine  view  is  obtained  from  this  point,  from  Boone  Island 
Light  on  the  N.  E,  to  Cape  Ann  on  the  S.,  embracing  nearly  40  M.  of 
coast.     The  vieAv  of  the  Isbs  of  Shoals  on  the  E,  ii;  very  satisfactory, 

Drake  is  of  the  opinion  that  "  the  .shore  full  of  wliite  sand,  but  very  stony  and 
rocky,"  near  which  Capt.  G(  snold  ancliorcd  (in  1602),  was  Rye  Beach.  Thf  town 
of  Rye  was  settled  in  1G.'J5,  and  was  named  from  tl<e  English  home  of  some  uf  the 
inniiiyrants.  In  WM  a  flotilla  of  Indians  attacked  the  people  at  iSandy  Beach  and 
killed  or  captured  21  of  them.  In  the  same  year  the  colonists  retaliated  by  at- 
tiicking  an  Indian  band  while  at  breakfast.  The  hill  where  this  action  took  place 
(to  the  r.  ot  Greeidand  station)  has  ever  since  been  called  Breakfast  Hill.  The 
little  town  lost  .38  men  in  the  Revolutionary  War.  Large  sea-walls  of  pebbles  are 
seen  near  the  Rye  beaches,  which  were  thrown  up  by  the  waves  in  the  great  storm 
which  destroyed  Minot's  Ledge  Lighthouse. 

Beyond  N.  Hampton  is  Greenland  station,  in  a  small  fruit-growing 
town.    Station, 

Portsmouth. 

Hotels*  *  Rockingham  House,  a  superbly  frescoed  and  marble-paved  hotel 
of  the  (irst  class,  accommodating  250-300  guests;  American  House;  National 
House. 


264    Route  37. 


rORTSMOUTII. 


\<' 


u. 


Rallroado,  to  Saco  and  Portland  ;  to  Xf!\vbnr>iiort,  Salem,  and  Bostr>n  ;  t'» 
N.  Conway  and  the  Whitt^  Mts.  ;  to  Manclu'stcr  and  Concord.  Htvgcs  to  Kittcry 
and  York.  Steamerg  daily  (in  snniinf-r)  in  1  hr.  to  the  Isles  oi  Hhoals  ;  also  to 
the  Marshall  lloust!,  at  York  ;  a  small  steam  ferry-boat  jilies  between  Portsmouth 
and  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  site  of  Port-smouth  was  first  visited  by  Cajit.  Prin;;  in  1603,  and  afterwards 
by  Cai)t.  Hnuth  in  1014.  In  l()2;t  it  was  settle<|  (nii  Odioriie's  Pf)int)  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Laconia  Company.  A  small  foit  armed  with  sevcnd  cannon  was 
erected  on  Great  Island  in  1<;;$5.  The  town  was  cilled  Ktrawberry  JJaiik  until 
1(55.'},  on  areount  of  the  abundance  of  strawberries  wiiich  !,'rew  on  its  hills  and 
around  the  "  Grent  House"  of  the  i>ropri(tor,  Capt.  Mason.  The  iieojde  chose 
Portsmouth  as  "  a  name  mos.  suitabhi  for  this  place,  it  bein^  the  river's  mouth, 
and  as  f:ood  as  any  in  the  lan<l,"  ;i!tliouf,di  they  i)robably  aeceiited  the  idea  from 
Capt.  Mason,  "  tjie  foundtir  of  N.  II.,"  and  ])roprietor  of  its  islands,  who  had 
lony  been  governor  of  the  South  Sea  Castle,  in  tlu)  harbor  of  Portsmouth,  Eng- 
laiul.  Tlic  village  was  fortified  with  ]>alisa(les  which  effe'lually  guarded  it  from 
Indian  marauders,  who  were  repuLsed  by  cannon  in  1070.  In  KiiHi,  a  i)arty  Iande<l 
near  the  Plains  from  a  fleet  of  canoes  aiid  killed  14  f^nglishmen.  In  173!),  the 
town's-people  firndy  resi.sted  the  annexation  of  N.  H.  to  Miuss.,  and  thus  secured 
the  provincial  independence  of  the  former.  In  1740,  a  new  10-gun  battery  M'as 
built  near  Fort  William  and  Mary,  on  Great  Island,  and  a  9-gun  battery  was  built 
at  Little  Harbor,  to  resist  the  expected  French  Armada.  In  Dec,  1774,  Sullivan 
took  Fort  William  and  Mary  by  surjirise  (with  Rockingham  Coiuity  volunteers), 
and  carried  away  loO  barrels  of  powder  ami  15  cannon,  and  in  1775,  the  same 
gentleman  led  the  .'id  N.  H.  Regiment  to  the  Continental  camp  at  Cambridge. 
At  the  close  of  the  Jievolution,  De  Warville  found  here  "a  thin  pojtulation,  many 
houses  in  ruins,  women  and  children  in  rags,  and  everything  announcing  decline." 
A  brisk  era  of  maritime  prosi)erity  soon  carried  the  town  to  a  higher  level,  and 
many  fine  mansions  were  built  for  the  new  families  of  consequence.  But  the 
Embargo,  a  succession  of  disastrous  lires,  and  the  decline  of  its  commen!e,  fully 
checked  this  tide  of  jtrosperity,  and  the  city  (chartered  in  1S49)  has  long  been 
losing  ground.     Between  1853  and  1870  it  lost  over  1,800  inhabitants. 

Portsmouth,  the  capital  of  New  Hampshire  from  1712  to  1807,  and  its 
only  seaport,  is  a  quaint  and  pleasant  old  city  (of  9,211  inhabitants), 
situated  on  a  peninsula  3  M.  from  the  mouth  of  th«  Piscataipia  River. 
*'  Tliere  are  more  quaint  houses  and  interesting  traditions  in  Portsmouth 
than  in  any  other  to^vn  in  New  England."  The  Mansard  mania  has  not 
reached  these  quiet  and  shaded  streets,  and  the  prevailing  architecture 
seems  to  be  that  of  the  colonial  days.  There  is  a  fine  U.  S.  building 
here,  also  a  few  neat  chiirches,  while  the  Parade,  or  central  square,  ex- 
hibits two  or  three  specimens  of  curious  old  architecture.  The  city  has 
4  banks,  9  churches,  2  daily  and  3  weekly  newspapers  (of  which  the 
N.  II.  Gazette  is  the  oldest  American  paper  continuously  published, 
having  been  established  in  1756).  There  are  also  manufactories  of  shoes, 
carriages,  furniture,  cotton  goods,  &c.  The  qiiietness  of  the  city,  its 
salubrious  sea-air,  the  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  nearness 
of  fine  beaches,  render  Portsmouth  a  favorite  and  desirable  summer-re- 
sort. The  Athenaium  (on  Market  Square)  has  about  12,000  volumes  and 
a  large  reading-room.  The  old  Church  of  St.  John  is  worthy  of  a  visit, 
and  so  is  Gov.  Wentworth's  mansion  at  Little  Harbor  (2  M.  distant). 
This  IS  a  large,  irregular,  and  picturesque  building  (dating  from  1750) 
which  contains  the  old  provincial  council-chamber,  and  many  quaint 


i 


THE   ISLES   OF  SHOALS. 


nnvte  ,V.     205 


ex- 
has 
the 
|ied, 
)es, 
its 


I 


fi 


relics  of  the  past,  among  which  some  portraits  hy  Copley  will  ho  noticofl. 
Grorge  Washington  paid  a  visit  to  this  mansion  while  the  Wcntworths 
were  still  there  (it  passed  ont  of  Ihoir  hands  in  1817).  Portsmouth  Ilar- 
l)or  is  one  of  the  host  in  New  England,  always  free  from  ice,  70-80  ft. 
deej),  and  the  river  is  II  M.  wide  opposite  the  citj', 

Portsmouth  has  given  to  American  literature,  T.  R.  Aldricli,  J  T.  Fields,  R.  P. 
Slilllahcr,  and  Kliza  B.  Lee;  to  the  cliurch.  Dr.  Nichols  and  Bishop  I'arkcr;  to 
the  bar,  Jiul^^es  Livermore  and  Langdon,  and  the  Atkinsons  :  to  the  State,  Gov. 
J>cnnin<^  Wentwortli,  Hir  John  Wcntworth,  and  Kenator  John  Uangdon  ;  and  to 
the  navy,  Commodores  Parrott  and  Long,  and  C'onnnander  Craven. 

Opposite  Portsmouth  (steam-ferry  frequently  from  the  foot  of  Daniel 

St. )  is  the  TT.  S.  Navy  Yard,  on  Continental  Island,  in  the  town  of  Kittery 

(]*.if'ne).      It  has    extensive    ship-houses,    machine-shops,  rigging-lofts, 

wharves,  and  barracks;  also  a  dry-dock  which  cost  $  800,000. 

• 

This  city  has  ever  been  famed  for  its  naval  architecture.  In  1000,  the  "  Falk- 
land," 54  guns,  was  built  here  ;  in  KirKJ.  the  "  Bedford,"  ;5iJ ;  in  1740,  the  "  Amer- 
ica," 40  ;  in  1770,  the  "Raleigh,"  3-2;  in  1777,  the  "  Iliingcr,"  18  ;  in  1784,  the 
"  America,"  a  superb  line-of-battlo  ship,  which  was  i)iesented  by  Congress  to  the 
King  of  France.  During  this  century  many  war-vessels  have  been  built  here, 
(•liief  among  whicli  is  the  frigate  "Congress." 

Kittery  Point  village,  near  the  Navy  Yard  and  Fort  McClary,  has  the  ancient 
Pepperell,  Sparhawk,  and  Cutts  mansions,  line  old  colonial  lumses,  tilletl  with  the 
renmants  of  their  quaint  furniture.     Pepperell's  tomb  is  near  the  llrst-naTued. 

Sir  William  Pepperell  was  i)()rn  at  Kittery  Point  in  1000.  He  rose  rapidly  in 
the  colonial  military  .service  until  1745.,  when  he  connnanded  the  expedition  which 
took  Louisburg,  for  which  he  was  knighted.  He  ()(;cupied  imjjortant  positions  in 
New  England,  was  made  a  lieut.-gen.  in  the  British  army,  and  (Jov.  of  Ma.ss.,  and 
died  in  1759.  His  grandson.  Sir  W.  P.  Sparhawk,  assumed  the  Pepperell  name 
and  inherited  the  vast  estates,  which  were  sequestrated  in  1778,  on  account  of 
his  adherence  to  the  British  government  in  opposition  to  America. 

The  *  Isles  of  Shoals  are  10  M.  from  Portsmouth,  and  consist  of  8 
rocky  islets  (9  M.  from  the  shore),  the  largest  of  Avhich  contains  350 
acres.  There  is  but  little  vegetation  on  these  rugged  ledges,  which  lift 
themselves  out  of  deep  water,  and  are  surrounded  by  the  i)urest  and 
coolest  sea-air. 

The  ste  mer  leaves  Portsmouth  in  the  morning,  and  affords  a  fine  retro- 
spect of  the  city.  The  pvtblic  works  and  national  vessels  at  the  Navy 
Yard  are  soon  passed,  and  then  the  island-town  of  Newcastle  (on  the  r. ). 
This  town  was  settled  before  1630,  and  incorporated  in  1093.  It  was  the 
site  of  old  Fort  William  and  Mary,  and  now  has  the  powerful  Fort  Con- 
stitution and  the  Portsmouth  Light.  On  the  1.  Fort  McClary  is  seen,  on 
Kittery  Point,  and  the  Whale's  Back  Lighthouse  is  passed,  witli  Frost's 
and  Odiorne's  Points  on  the  r.  As  the  steamer  gahis  the  open  sea,  the 
coast  of  Maine  is  seen  on  the  N.  W.,  trending  away  beyond  Mt.  Agamen- 
ticus.  The  Isles  are  now  rapidly  approached.  The  *  Apjjledore  lionise 
is  a  great  hotel  on  Appledore  Island,  accommodating  500  guests,  at  $  3.00 
a  day.  An  immense  new  hotel  (the  Oceanic,  with  275  rooms)  will  be 
opened  in  the  summer  of  1873,  on  Star  Island,  the  former  site  of  the  vil- 
12 


2GC    nmUc37. 


YORK. 


r 


w 


»i: 


l!ij:,'f5  of  Gosjinrt.  Several  fuinily  cottages  will  lie  attached  to  the  hotel, 
aii«l  leased  by  the  seiusoii.  Ou  Star  Island  is  a  small  cavern,  where 
a  woiiiau  once  hid  in  a  rocky  recess  while  the  Indians  niassacretl  the 
l)eo]>le  of  the  settlement.  It  is  said  that  she  killed  her  two  children  to 
]>revent  them  from  discovering  her  to  the  Indians  by  their  cries.  Another 
point  on  the  rocky  shore  \\  as  the  favorite  resort  of  a  lady  school-teacher, 
who  Avas  wont  to  read  there,  until  Sei>t.  11,  1848,  when  a  huge  wave 
washed  her  away,  to  be  seen  no  more.  Fine  trap-dikes  are  found  on  this 
island.  1  M.  S.  VV.  is  White  Island,  with  a  powerful  revolving  light,  87 
ft.  above  the  water,  and  visible  15  M.  away.  Haley's  (or  Smutty  Nose) 
Island  is  between  Ai>pledore  and  Star,  and  has  the  graves  of  16  of  the 
crew  of  the  Spanish  ship  "  Sagunto,"  which  was  lost  here  (in  1813)  with 
all  on  board.  J)uck  Island  is  2  M.  N.  E.  of  A]ipledore,  and  is  a  rugged 
and  dangerous  mass  of  rock-  Fine  fishing  may  be  enjoyed  from  boats 
al>out  the  islands,  and  yachts  may  be  engaged  at  the  hotels. 

The  lalps  of  Slinals  were  clisroveivd  by  Clinniiilniii  in  Kior),  and  were  visited  by 
Ar^all  in  1013,  an<l  by  Wniith  in  1(514.  Tlie  Ijist-nanied  mariner  named  them 
{Stnitli'.s  Isles,  but  the  i)resent  name  was  early  adopt'-d,  and  in  l(i2;i  "the  Isles  of 
^^lloul<ls  "  are  sitokcn  of  (derived  jirobalily  from  the  shoaling  or  "schooling"  of 
the  fish  arotnid  the  islands). 

Tlie  j)resent  Apitledore  Island  was  .soon  colonized,  and  in  1()4()  had  a  considerable 
village  of  (isliermen,  with  a  church  ami  court-house.  In  KiCJl,  it  had  40  families, 
an<l  in  1670  the  people  removed  to  Star  Islam!  for  fear  of  the  Indians,  who  never- 
theless destroyed  the  colony  in  lOTo.  In  1G47,  "  The  humble  petition  of  Richard 
Cults  and  .lohn  Cutting  ;  JSheweth  —That  contrary  to  an  order  or  act  of  Court, 
which  says  that  no  woman  shall  live  on  the  Isles  ot  Shoals,  John  Reynolds  hath 
brought  his  wile  hither,  also  i)igs  and  goats."  The  latter  were  removed  by  order 
of  the  Court,  but  the  woman  remained.  Star  Island  was  fortified,  and  an  exten- 
sive lishing-business  aro.se.  The  lish  caught  and  cured  by  the  islanders  were  sent 
mostly  to  Si)ain  and  to  the  West  Indies,  and  by  1770,  the  town  had  over  500  in- 
liabitants.  In  1870,  the  pojiuhitiou  had  dwindled  to  94,  and  in  1872,  Star  Island 
was  purchased  and  depojiulated  for  the  erection  of  a  large  hotel.  Star,  liOndoner's, 
and  White  Island  belong  to  New  IIami)shire,  and  the  others  pertain  to  Maine.  On 
the  night  of  March  bi\\,  187.'5,  a  fearful  tragedy  took  place  on  Haley's  Island 
(Smutty  Ncse).  The  men  of  the  family  residing  there  were  in  Portsmouth,  and 
one  Wagner  (a  Prussian)  landed  and  murdered  2  of  the  3  women  then  on  the 
island.     The  third  escaped  in  the  darkness  and  hid  among  the  rocks  and  snow. 

York  village  is  9  M.  N.  E.  of  i  ortsmouth  (daily  stage  ;  steamers  run 
from  Portsmouth  to  the  Marshall  House).  It  is  a  quiet  and  pleasant  old 
maritime  hamlet,  with  several  ancient  houses,  and  a  slender-spired  church 
Avhich  was  built  in  1748.  4  M.  N,  are  two  quaint  old  garrison-houses,  — 
Mclntire's  and  Junkin's,  while  the  clayey  valley  of  York  River,  being 
fertilized  with  sea-weed,  has  some  fine  farms,  which  are  noted  for  their 
apples  and  cider.  On  a  promontory  between  York  Harbor  and  the  ocean 
is  the  *  Marshall  House,  a  hotel  accommodating  200  guests,  with  fine 
fishing  in  the  vicinit^\.  li  M.  from  the  village  is  York  Beach,  one  of  the 
best  in  New  England,  about  1  h  M.  long  and  formed  of  gently  sloping,  hard, 
gray  sand.  The  Sea  Foam  Cottage  is  a  new  hotel,  accommodating  about 
100  guests,  and  there  are  2  or  3  boarding-houses  near  the  beach.     At  its 


^ 


. 


A 


nni 
old 
lurch 
es,— 
being 
their 
cean 
fine 
If  the 
ard, 
,boiit 
t  its 


BALD  HEAD  CLIFF. 


Iloute;17.     2(i7 


t 


N.  end  Cape  NeJdick  runs  out  into  the  sea,  with  a  curious  rotky  isU-t 
called  "The  Nubble,"  o(T*its  jioint  and  sci)arat('d  from  it  by  a  deep,  nar- 
row, and  tide-swept  channel.  The  Howden  House  is  on  tin;  Cape,  and  is 
a  favorite  resort  for  gunners,  while  jiist  beyond  is  the  village  of  C'a/>6' 
Keddirk  (small  tavern). 

6-7  M.  from  York  Reach  (by  a  bad  road  througli  Cape  Neddick) 
is  Mt.  Afjomenticus,  a  lofty  hill  whence  fine  views  of  the  ocean  and  of 
the  White  Mts.  may  be  obtained.  About  5  M.  N.  from  the  beach  is 
*  Bald  Head  Cliff,  a  remarkalde  rocky  ]>roniontory,  ''second  oidy  to  the 
Giant's  Causeway  in  wild  and  majestic  grandeur."  The  highly  inclined 
strata  of  the  ledges  show  long  and  regular  stripes  of  vivid  and  variegated 
colors,  while  the  action  of  storms  and  rolling  surf  has  broken  the  clilT 
into  curious  shapes.  The  view  from  the  Pulpit  when  a  heavy  sea  is  roll- 
ing 's  awe-inspiring,  with  such  force  do  the  great  surges  break  on  the 
On  its  S.  W.  side  the  cli If  falls  sheer  for  85  ft.,  to  the 
years  since,  a  new  banpie   from   Kennebunkport,  being 


rocks  below, 
water.     Some 

lightly  ballasted,  was  driven  in  on  BaM  Head  Cliff,  and  lost,  with  its  crew 
of  14  TT.en.  Buonc  Island  is  seen  off  shore,  with  its  lighthouse,  133  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  Nottingham  Galley,  10  guns,  was  wrecked  on  this 
island  in  1710,  and  a  horrid  cannibalism  sustained  the  life  of  the  few  men 
who  were  saved.  Tlie  long  Ognnquit  Leach  stretches  from  Bald  Head 
Cliff  to  Wells. 

York  was  settled  about  1G24,  and  in  1042  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  eatablis'-.-d 
here  the  city  of  Gor,i;oana,  with  a  full  inunieipal  govenuiient,  and  semi-yearly 
fails,  — to  occur  at  the  feasts  of  SS.  James  and  I'aul.  (lorges  was  Lord  Palatine 
of  Maine,  and  vainly  tried  to  establish  a  feudal  system  here.  The  death  of  Gorges 
and  the  rise  of  the  English  rei)ut)lie  made  it  easy  for  Massachusetts  to  take  i)os- 
session  of  Gorgeana  City  in  1652,  and  10  ycsai-s  later  the  province  took  away  the 
city  charter,  and  named  the  town  York.  It  was  then  the  chief  i>laee  in  Maine, 
and  received  a  large  addition  to  its  population  hy  the  arrival  of  a  detachment  of 
exiled  Scotchmen  who  had  been  captured  by  Cromwell  at  the  battle  of  Dunbar. 
The  Indians  made  frequent  attacks  on  York,  and  in  l(i76  they  destroyed  Caj)e 
Neddick  village  and  its  people.  Feb.  5,  1002,  the  town  was  attacked  at  dawn  by 
300  Indians  and  Frenchmen,  who  had  uiarched  from  Canada  on  snow-shoes. 
Many  of  the  villagers  gained  refuge  in  the  garrison-houses,  which  were  success- 
fully defended  while  the  remainder  of  the  settlement  was  destroyed.  After  a 
bloody  slaughter  in  the  streets  the  assailants  retired,  leading  100  i>risoners  witk 
them  to  Canada,  after  killing  75  of  the  i)eople  of  York.  Henceforth  until  1744, 
the  settlers  kept  guarded  as  if  in  a  state  of  siege,  and  throughf)ut  Queen  Anne's 
War  (1702  - 1712),  spy-boats  patrolled  the  coast  between  Cape  Neddick  and  Boar's 
Head.  3  comi)anies  from  York  went  to  the  Louisburg  campaigns,  and  on  the 
morning  after  the  battle  of  Lexington,  00  men  marched  thence  to  Cambridge. 
The  town  has  retrograded  during  the  past  century,  and  has  now  a  farming  popu- 
lation of  2,654  i)ersons. 

Portsmoidh  to  Concord. 

Distance,  C9  M.  ;  fare,  81.60  ;  time,  2J-  3  hrs.  The  Concord  trains  leave  their 
station  near  that  of  the  Eastern  Railroad,  and  pass  out  to  the  S.  W.,  soon  reach- 
ing the  shore  of  Great  Bay.  Stations,  Greenland  and  Stratham,  a  large  fruit- 
jiroducing  town.  From  Stratham  Hill  a  ]iretty  view  is  affonled  toward  the 
White  MtR.  At  Ncvvjarket  Junction,  the  line  connects  with  the  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad  (Route  3S\    The  train  tlien  passes  through  the  farming  towns  of 


i    i 


I 


„•» 


n\ 


fil 


■f ., 


.1 


irr- 


lis? 


208     lioifle  37. 


WELLS. 


Epping,  Raymond,  Caiulin,  and  Auburn,  to  Manclit'ster.     Fron;  Mam-liostcr  to 
Concord,  nee  Koute  29. 

Beyond  Portsinoutli  the  train  crosses  the  Plscataqua  River,  afl'onling  a 
pleasant  view  ^to  ther.)  of  the  ancient  city,  and  of  the  distant  Navy 
Yard.  Stations,  h'i/frri/  (^  M.  from  Kittery  Tolnt),  J'Jllint  (a  pretty 
farming-town),  and  Conway  Junction,  where  trains  diverge  to  N.  Con- 
way and  tlie  Wliite  Mis.,  71  M.  distant  (see  Route  .31.).  3  M.  beyond 
Conway  Junction  i.s  .<?.  lieririck  J inicf imi,  whcra  tlie  Roston  and  Maine 
Railroad  (Route  38)  crosses  the  present  route.  S.  Berwick  village  is  2  M. 
distant,  and  has  cunsideral)Uf  manufactures.  Stations,  iV.  Berwick  and 
Wdls. 

Wells  was  founded  in  164;}  hy  Rev.  .Toliu  Whcehvrif;lit,  who  li.nd  Itren  banislied 
from  Ma.ss.  for  heresy.  In  l(J7<i  tlie  settlement,  was  vainly  attacked  1>y  Mo-.^' 
Me},'ono,  and  in  10!»2  a  fnrious  assaidt  was  made  l>y  ."»()(»  men.  led  by  French  otll- 
cers.  After  a  4K  hours'  sicKe,  the  enemy,  led  by  .Si.  Hinnille,  (jen.'l.abocre,  and 
the  Tarratine  chiefs  Madoi  kawando  an<l  Egeremet,  atteini>tcd  to  storm  the  fort, 
but  were  disastrously  repulsed  by  the  artillery  and  musketry  of  Caj)t.  Converse's 
garrison.     In  170a,  39  of  the  people  of  Wells  were  killed  or  c'apturecl. 

Wells  Village  {Ocean  Iinuse,  60- 75  guests,  .$10-12.00  a  week)  is 
about  4  M.  S.  E.  of  the  station,  and  is  finely  situated  on  a  high  ridge 
overlooking  the  ocean.  The  houses  are  Iniilt  along  the  old  northern  post- 
road,  and  are  separated  from  the  beach  by  Wells  River.  1^  M.  from  the 
village  (good  road)  is  Wells  Beach  {Island  Leihje  House,  $  3.00  a  day; 
Atlantic  House,  100  rooms,  .$12-20.00  a  week),  a  sandy  strand,  with 
rocky  ledges  off  shore,  furnishing  good  bathing  and  hunting.  The  view 
from  the  Atlantic  House  is  grand,  endiracing  Boone  Island,  Ogunquit 
Beach,  and  the  trend  of  the  coast  from  Bald  Head  Cliff  to  Cape  Porj)oise. 
A  short  distance  S.  of  Wells  is  the  ancient  village  of  Oguntpiit,  with  Bald 
Head  Cliff  beyond,  while  4  -  5  M.  N.  is  Kennebunk. 

Stages  nin  daily  in  summer  from  the  station  to  the  beach.  The  Boston  and 
Maine  R,  R.  has  now  a  station  within  1  M.  of  the  Atlantic  House. 

Station,  Kennebunk  (restaurant),  3  M.  from  the  \illage  {Mousam 
House),  which  has  several  factories  and  shipyards,  with  4  churches. 
3-5  M.  beyond  are  the  maritime  villages  of  Kennchunkport  and  Ca^ye 
Porpoise.  Large  granite  breakwaters  are  built  out  on  each  side  of  tlie 
mouth  of  the  Kennebunk  River,  from  which  a  beach  rims  W.  2-3  M.  to 
the  Mousam  River.  There  are  several  small  boarding-houses  here  {Sea 
Vieio,  Beach,  and  Fairvieiv  Houses).  Near  Cape  Porpoise  village  {Goose 
Rocks  House)  is  a  group  of  small  islands  sheltering  a  good  harbor. 

This  locality  was  first  visited  in  ]6n2,  and  settled  in  1620.  In  1G90  the  provin- 
cial garrison  on  Stajie  Island  was  removed,  and  the  Indians  soon  attacked  the 
settlement,  upon  whicli  the  i»eople  withdrew  to  the  fort.  Alter  a  long  siege  by 
the  Indians,  a  eri])pled  man  from  the  fort  escaped  by  night  in  a  leaky  canoe  to 
Portsmouth,  whence  aid  was  sent,  and  the  people  were  tiiken  off.  The  place  was 
deserted  for  9  years,  and  3  years  after  its  resettlement  (1702)  it  was  utterly  <ie- 
stroyed  by  500  Indians.     In  1713  the  town  was  again  occupied,  and  iu  1717  it  was 


loster  to 

)r(linK  a 
it  Navy 
I  pretty 
N.  Cnii- 
bpyoncl 
il  Maino, 
?.  is  2  M. 
cick  and 


Vanished 

by  Mf)frK 

ciicli  olH- 

i(«iT,  and 

tlu"  lort. 

jonversc'8 


week)  is 

igli  riiit^c 

lern  post- 

froni  tlic 

)0  a  (lay; 

,n(\,  vith 

riie  view 

Oguiiquit 

Porpoise. 

itli  Bald 

Vston  and 

[Mousnm 
kuirclies. 
^nd  Cape 

le  of  the 

3  M.  to 

liere  {S»m 

re  {Goose 


Ic  proviii- 

[icked  tlif 

siege  I'V 

i-aiioe  to 
Iplaec  was 
Itterly  do- 

il7  it  was 


Bl  DDKi-'OUD. 


noute  37.    !2C)9 


Inrorjio.Mted  Ity  tho  Mass.  L»'xij»latim!,  with  the  name  of  Anuidtl.     Al'ti-r  lM>ariug 
thii  name  lor  104  years,  the  town  discanled  it  fur  its  jiresfiit  iiaiiie. 

Beyond  Kenne))\ink  tlu'  train  reaches  Biddeford,  a  eity  of  over  1(»,0<X) 
inlial)itants,  with  4  l>anks  ('1  of  dfjiosit), 'J  wt-ekly  papers,  and  i>  ehurehes. 
Opi)Osito  Biddeford,  ami  across  the  Saco  River,  is  tlie  eity  of  Saoo  (Saeo 
House),  with  5,7r»7  inhaliitants,  4  banks  (2  of  deposit),  and  a  weekly 
paper.  The  river  has  55  ft.  of  falls  between  tho  cities,  iurnishing  a  fine 
water-power,  which  is  utilized  by  the  V'ork,  Pepperell,  and  Laconia  cot- 
ton factories,  running  175,000  siiindles,  with  about  §3,000,000  capital, 
and  employing  over  3,000  operatives.  Several  hundred  men  are  engaged 
in  large  machine  sliops,  while  great  numbers  are  in  the  lund)er-nulls. 

This  district  was  first  visited  l»y  I)e  Mouts  in  1005,  and  Vines  wintered  liere  in 
1(117-18.  I'ernianent  settienicnts  were  made  about  KI.'IO,  and  in  l(i7'>  the  Holvoliis 
Indians  were  repulsed  willi  seven?  loss  from  tii(!  fort  at  tlie  falls.  In  1703,  this  fort 
was  tiiken  by  anotlier  attacli,  le(l  by  Krencli  otileers,  and  in  1708  Fort  Mary  was 
built.  IJiddeford  was  boui^lit  for  C'.'i)  l)y  Wni.  I'hillips,  of  Boston,  and  in  1718 
received  its  sejtaratc  incorporation,  and  was  nanieil  for  an  Kn^lish  city  whence 
eanio  .several  of  its  settlers.  It  became!  a  city  in  IS')').  Saco  was  incorporated  as 
lN!pperellb(»rou},di  in  17(i'2,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  knij,'lit  who  owned  its 
territory.  It  was  called  Saeo  in  lS().j,  and  lu'cainc  a  city  in  18ti7.  Tlu;  eeh'brateJ 
IS.ico  River  regiment  (.^tii  Maine)  was  raised  herealionts  in  lS(il,  and  served  tlirough 
llie  Secession  War,  being  mo.st  distin;:,ui8lied  for  its  brilliant  bayonet-cOiarge  at 
Uaiipahannock  .Station,  where  it  took  liundreds  of  prisoners  and  the  Hays  of  the 
t;th  Louisiana,  and  0th,  7th,  and  JJ4th  North  Carolina  regiments. 

Saco  Pool  is  about  9  M.  from  the  station  (7  M.  for  pedestrians,  by 
Fort  Hill  and  the  ferry).  The  steamer  "  Augn.sta  "  nms  twice  daily  from 
the  pier  below  the  falls,  down  tlie  beautiful  river  to  the  Pool,  touching  at 
the  Ferry  House,  a  .summer-hotel  on  the  1.  bank  near  the  sea. 

The  *  Yates  House  (200  gue.st.s,  $2.50  a  day,  ^12-20,00  a  week)  i.^  at 
the  Pool,  together  with  several  large  boarding-liouses  {Hnssei/'a  Ocean 
House,  HolmaiCs  Hujlihuvl  House,  ttc. ).  The  village  is  on  a  i>eninsula 
opposite  the  hill  on  wliich  are  tho  ruins  of  Fort  Mary  (built  in  1708). 
Near  by  is  a  (plaint  old  house  of  the  17th  century.  The  Pool  is  a  broad 
and  muddy-bottomed  cove,  which  is  very  nearly  land-locked,  and  is  filled 
by  each  tide.  There  was  formerly  a  popular  belief  that  whosoever  en- 
tered the  Pool  on  the  22d  of  June  would  be  cured  of  all  disease.  On  tho 
ocean-front  near  the  hotels  is  a  fine,  sandy  beach  with  good  facilities  for 
surf-bathing  (rent  of  bathing-houses,  .SI. 00  a  week),  while  a  resounding 
rocky  .sliore  stretches  around  toward  the  harbor.  N.  E.  of  tho  Pool  is 
Sltye  Island,  where  a  British  frigate  destroyed  5  vessels  in  1814,  and 
Wood  Island,  with  a  ]K)werful  revolving  red  light.  Sojourners  here  often 
cross  Saco  Bay  in  small  boats  (in  calm  weather),  to  Old  Orchard  Beach, 
which  is  plainly  visible. 

The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  (Route  38)  crosses  the  present  route  at  Biddc- 
foi-d,  and  tourists  who  wish  U)  visit  the  Pool  will  linu  tliat  route  eiiually  near. 

After  leaving  Biddeford,  the  train  crosses  the  Saco  River  and  passes  on 
to  Saco  station,  with  f.no  views  of  the  sister  cities  ou  the  r.    5  M.  farther 


f 

w, 
Iff 


I''  I 


270    Route, V.        PORTLAND  AND   ITS   HNVIUONH. 

on  is  W,  S('nr))nnmgli  Htntion,  wlu'iice  stages  run  in  !{  M,  to  SoarborougA 
Beaoh  (Atl;intit:  liduso,  TjO-OO  guests;  Kirkwotxl  llousi-,  Kouicwliut 
larger  ;  botli  good  liouscs  ;  also  Heveral  inexi)ensiv(!  bonrding-liouscs). 
The  bencli  is  2-3  M.  long,  hard,  level,  and  safe  for  bathing,  while  the 
fishing  offshore  is  very  good.  A  fine  i)icce  of  forest  near  the  Atlantic 
House  furnishes  idc^asant  walks.  Trout's  or  Lildiy's  Nuk  (with  two 
large  Huninier  boarding-houses)  i»roJ«-ets  into  the  ocean  I'roni  the  S.  ««nd  of 
the  beach,  while  on  the  N.  is  Ilichinond's  Island,  off  the  mouth  of  Spur- 
wink  River,  and  Cape  Kli/.abcth  with  its  large  hotels. 

This  town  was  scttlccl  atxnit  i(t,'{(»,  iiiid  in  1<)')S  suluuittiMl  to  Mass.  and  acloi)tp(l 
the  Kn^lish  iiunif,  ScartntrniiK'li,  in  jilare  of  Ms  Imlian  nanii',  (iwaHcnaK  ("u  pliu'o 
uf  nuK'li  Krass " ).  In  Kinn  l'liili|i's  War  it  was  (Icltinlcd  hy  tinDps  of  Mass. 
Hj^'alnst  several  Indian  attadis,  over  'JOO  men  lu'in^'  in  K'Hi'ison  licic.  Tlio  troops 
were  called  uway  in  l(i7(),  and  tlu;  cnciny  dt-stroyi'd  tin-  town,  and  in  1077  210 
Mass.  soldiers  were  landed  heri;.  They  were  liereely  attaekird,  and  defeated  with 
the  1')S8  of  <iO  inoii  ami  their  eoniniamler,  (.'apt.  Swett.  In  KiMii  larn*'  fort  (parts 
of  which  still  remain)  was  i>iiilt  at  Hlack  j'oint,  i>nt  tiie  town  was  abandoned 
Ix^tweon  KiOO  and  17(ii.'.  In  17<»:!,  the  fort  was  atlaclved  liy  M»0  men  nnder  M. 
Beauliariu,  ))ut  was  defended  l»y  u  l»rave  little  hand  from  Lynn,  while  heavy  rains 
canseil  the  hostile  mines  to  fall  in.  Alter  over  KM)  Kn;;lish  lives  had  heen  saeri- 
ficd  by  the  In<lian.s,  lSearl)or(nit4h  became  lirndy  establi.shed,  and  in  IT'.U  was  au 
pojmlous  as  Portland  (2, '_':('>  inhabitants).  The  exodus  from  Maine  has  yrtatly 
weakened  this  town,  which  in  1870  had  a  iiopnlation  smaller  by  044  souls  than 
that  of  1701. 

6  M.  beyond  W.  Scarborougli  (passing  Scarborough  and  Cape  Elizabeth 
stations)  the  train  crosses  Fore  liiver,  and  stops  at  I'ortluud. 


ii9 


►U 


I' 


Portland  and  its  Environs. 

Arrival.  The  Boston  station  is  about  1  M.  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  a 
cavriajj;e  should  be  taken,  as  the  district  to  bo  traversed  is  unattractive. 

Hotels.  *  Falmouth  House,  a  tin*!  structure  on  Mid<lle  St.,  !5::{.50  a  day; 
Treble  House  ;  United  Htatcs  Hotel.  The  *«t.  Julian  is  near  the  Fahnoutli,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  European-plan  hotels,  —  rooms,  .Sl.OO  a  day,  meals  a  la  carte. 

Horse-Cars  on  Con^n-ess  St.  from  Vau<,'han  8t.  to  the  (Jbservatory  every  15 
minutes;  from  the  Freblo  ibtuse,  by  Prelde,  Portland,  and  (Jreen  St.s.,  to  Wood- 
ford's Corner  (Westbrook) ;  from  Congress,  l»y  Kiuiug,  to  Kmery  Ht. 

Iicatliiie>rooins.  Tlie  Y.  M.  C.  Association,  corner  of  Congress  and  Casco 
Sts.  :  the  Purthiiid  Institute,  in  the  City  Hall,  open  10-1,  2-0,  7-9  o'clock  ;  the 
Athenanim,  on  Plum  LL 

Railroads.  Tlip  (v  stern  R.  R.,  to  Portsmouth  and  Boston  (Route  37) ;  the 
Boston  anil  Maine  K.  R.,  to  Lawrence  and  Boston  (Route  H8)  ;  Maine  Central 
(Portland  and  Kenn(  lec)  R.  R.,  to  Augusta  and  Bangor  (Route  47) ;  Maine  Cen- 
tral (Lewiston  Division)  to  Lewiston  and  Bangor  (Route  4(5) ;  Portlan<l  and  Og- 
densburg  R.  R.,  to  N.  Conway  and  Upper  Bartlett  (Route  39) ;  (jars  of  the  Knox 
and  Lincoln  R.  R.,  for  Rockland  (Route  44);  Portland  and  Rochester  R.  R. ; 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  (Route  40). 

Steamships.  The  Allan  Mail  Line  runs  between  Portland  and  lilverpool 
from  Noveml)cr  to  May,  and  from  May  to  November  between  Quebec  and  laver- 
pool.  Cabin-fares,  §(J5- 80.00  ;  thinl-'clnss,  .*30.00.  Vessels  of  the  Inttrnational 
Steamship  Co.  run  thrice  weekly  (Mon<lays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  at  t,  I'.  31.) 
to  Eastport  and  St.  John,  connecting  with  steamers  for  Annai)olis  and  Halifax. 
Portland  to  St.  John,  S/i.OO.  A  weekly  steamer  leaves  for  Halifax  ilirect ;  fare, 
§8.00.  Semi-weekly  steamers  leave  Brown's  Wharf  for  New  York  ;  fare  (includ- 
ing state-room),  !§5.00.  Daily  steamers  leave  Atlantic  Wharf  at  7  1*.  M,  for  Bos- 
ton :  fare,  $1.50  (with  state-room,  $2.00).  Tri-wcekly  steamers  leave  for  tiie 
Kennebec  River,  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  at  7  A.  M. ;  fa»x'  d  Au- 


4. 


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37) :  the 
Central 
iiie  L'on- 
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II.  11.; 

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I'OIITI.ANI). 


Huutejr.     271 


%i% 


KUhIm,  $1.50.  Tri-w»>i'kly  Htenmt'rs  also  for  Hie  PtMiol.-seot  Fliv«'r,  Htoppltit;  at  Mix 
rivtT  itorts  I'miii  Uocklainl  to  llim;.;cir.  Tlit-  stfiiiiHT  "  l>'\vistt>u"  K'avcs  Uailiiiail 
Wliarf  H»'iiil-wt'»'kly  for  Mt.  Dchi  it  ami  MailiiaH  (,him>  llniiti'  Vo).  Smaller  ImatH 
Mill  Heinl-wtu'Uly  t>t  HoollilKiy,  I'finaiiuid,  WaMnhnrn,  and  D miariscotta  (see  Elotittt 
41)  ;  and  H<<vi>ral  tiiiit-s  daily  to  I'cak's  and  ('iisliingH  liilaud.s.  Kxi'iU'.sion  Htt'uui- 
ers  frcqiu-ntly  aHccnd  Casco  Hay  to  IlariiHwdl. 

Portland  was  H<>ttlt>d  in  K^IJ,  mi  tlir  Indian  doniain  or  Maclii^'oiinf,  and  wan 
naiuwl  Casco  N«'ck  until  it  |ta.ssril  nntli-r  tli«  Mass.  jjovfrnniciit  in  Ki.'iS.  vvlu'n  it 
rt'ci'ived  tho  nainr  of  Falinoiilli,  In  1(57(1,  tlic  .si'ttli-niriit  was  destroyed  l»y  the 
IiuUaiis,  and  :t.'i  of  its  iM-opli^  were  killeil  and  eaptiired.  The  desolatetl  villain 
was  repoimlated  in  1((7S,  and  received  an  accession  of  Ilii^'iieiiot  iiiiiiii^,'rants 
from  La  lloclielle,  hut  tlie  Indians  soon  rose  a;,'ain,  and  in  KJS'.t  killed  U  of  the 
town  1,'uard  on  Muiijoy's  Hill.  In  the  same  year,  the  town  was  menaced  hy  a 
lai%,'t!  hostile  fi, rce,  Itiit  was  <lclivercd  liy  the  oi»i>oiliine  arrival  of  Major  (jhurcii,  a 
Hkiiful  partisan  ollleer,  witli  troops  from  tiie  I'lyiiioiitli  Colony.  Ciiiirch  marched 
out  to  the  vicinity  of  tlie  Deerin;,'  estate,  and  Inildly  en;^'a;,'ed  th(!  enemy,  who  was 
put  to  fli^lit  after  a  sliarjt  skiriiiisii  in  wliicli  the  I'lynioiith  men  lost  11  killed  and 
many  wonnde(|.  After  Church  had  left  the  town  (Ki'.Xi),  the  three  main  defences 
were  attacked  l»y  TyiO  Frenchmen  and  Indians.  One  of  them  was  evacuated  and 
(mother  was  HtornuMl  l-'oit  Loyall,  tlie  larnest  fort  on  tiie  coast  (then  on  the 
present  sitt!  t)f  tho  (irand  Trunk  station),  was  fairly  •garrisoned  ainl  monnte(l  8 
••aiunm.  Ilavinj^  destroyed  th<i  villa;,'e  and  most  of  its  inhabitants,  the  fort  was 
])esiej»ed  for  5  days,  and  mined  uinler  the  direction  of  the  Frcu"h  olllcers.  Ero 
the  mine  was  Hprun;^  the  fort  surrendered,  and  the  survivors  of  its  pirrison  wero 
taken  to  Qnehee.  Scores  of  the  peojih!  were  killed,  and  UK)  were  made  prisoners. 
In  I70.'l  the  nei^dihorinj,'  villa;,'es  of  Spurwink  and  I'uriiooduck  wcie  destroyed, 
and  .05  jieoplo  kille<l  (u- captured.  After  the  Teace  of  Llrecht,  in  17l;{,  the  iilaco 
was  a;^'ain  occupied  and  ^'rew  slowly,  the  i>opulatiou  of  7.i'l  souls  in  MWS  having 
increased  to  li.(H»i)  hy  17(54  October  18,  177'>,  this  jirosperous  town  was  bom- 
barded by  4  Uritish  war-vessels  (the  Canseau,  Cat.  and  others,  under  command  of 
Capt.  Mowatt,  who  had  previously  sulfcred  sonit!  indi;,niiti"s  here).  Detachiiuiits 
of  marines  were  land(!<l,  and  between  tlieir  incendiary  labors  and  nine  hours  of 
eannonadiuK  from  the  fleet,  41 1  buil<lin;^s  were  utterly  destroyed,  leavinj;  but  luO 
standinj,'.  The  rebuilding  of  Falmouth  was  commenced  in  178:5  ;  in  HS.'j,  the 
"  Fahnouth  (Jazette  "  was  started,  "to  advocate  the  indeiiendence  of  Main«^  "  (then 
miller  the  Mass.  government) ;  and  in  1780  a  town  was  iueorpoiiited  here,  with 
li.oOO  inhabitants,  under  the  name  of  Portland.  In  18;S2  it  became  a  city  (popula- 
tion i;i,()00),  and  soon  afterwards  bej^an  the  construction  of  gniat  railway  lines  to 
the  back  country.  An  extensive  foreij^n  trade  sprang  up,  jirincipally  with  the 
West  Indies,  and  the  city  grew  rai)idly  in  wealth  and  impoilance.  On  the  night 
of  July  4th,  ISOfi,  a  disastrous  lire  swept  away  one  half  of  the  compact  part  of  the 
city,  pausing  a  loss  of  i}  10,000,000.  Portions  of  the  burnt  district  are  still  en- 
cumbered with  ruins,  but  by  far  the  greater  part  has  been  covered  with  new  and 
elegant  commereial  buildings.  Not  satislicd  with  its  connection  with  the  West 
by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  Portlaml  has  contributed  laigtdy  to  t'l.e  construc- 
tion of  the  Portland  and  (fgdeusburg  Itailroail,  to  securt:  i)art  of  the  Western 
grain  earriagt!,  while  a  thinl  grand  route,  called  the  Portland,  Rutland,  Oawego, 
and  Chicago  Railroad,  has  long  liecu  in  contemplation. 

Portlaucl,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Maine  (witli  31,408  inluil»itant.s 
and  a  valuation  of  .$30,000,000),  is  situated  on  a  high  i»eniii.sula  in  the 
S.  W.  end  of  Casco  Bay.  Its  harbor  is  deep  and  well  sheltered,  and 
defended  by  three  powerful  forts,  while  several  large  islands  beyond  aiTord 
favorite  resorts  in  the  summer  season.  The  peninsula  on  wliich  the  city 
is  built  is  3  M.  long,  and  at  the  centre  is  little  over  h  M.  wide.  It  is 
bounded  by  Portland  Harbor  and  Fore  River  on  the  S.  and  W.,  and  by 
Back  Cove,  on  the  N.  Bramhall's  Hill,  on  tlie  W.  of  the  peninsula,  is 
175ft.  high;  Munjoy's  Hill,  on  the  E.,  's  IGl  ft.;  and  the  central  part 
of  the  city  is  57  ft.  above  Ihe  water.     The  Western  Promenade  looks  down 


272    Route  37. 


PORTLAND. 


m 


u , 


rJ  I 


if 


1^ 


on  tlie  rural  environs  from  Bramhall's  llill,  and  from  t)us  point  Congress 
St.  runs  down  tlie  length  of  the  i)eninsula  to  the  Eastern  Promenade  on 
Muiijoy's  Hill,  from  which  i'ma  views  of  the  bay  and  islands  may  be  ob- 
tained. Each  of  these  promenades  is  150  ft.  wide,  di  ided  into  sections, 
and  planted  Avith  lines  of  trees. 

The  City  Hall  is  a  large  and  imposing  building  of  light  Nova  Scotia 
stone,  surmounted  by  h  singular  dome.  Passing  from  this  poir.t  uj) 
Congress  St.,  with  Lincoln  Park  on  the  r.,  the  Roman  Catholic  Bishop's 
Palace  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  the  large  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception. Beyond  St.  Luke's  Churc.li  (Epis.)  on  the  1.,  a  large  building 
occup'  ;l  by  a  graded  city  school  is  i)assed,  and  alongside  of  it  the  old 
Eastern  Cemetery  is  seen. 

Among  tli()S(!  wlio  are  buried  here  are  Commodore  Prehle  and  Captains  Bur- 
rouglis  and  IJlytlie.  Kuward  Preble  was  ]>oni  at  Poitlaiid  in  1761,  and  was  an 
officer  in  the  American  Navy  during  the  Revohition.  He  commanded  the  squad- 
ron wliicli  sailed  to  Tripoli  in  18();{,  an<l  huml)led  its  jiiratical  people  by  several 
bombardments  of  the  city,  at  the  same  time  averting  the  danj-'.ers  of  a  war  between 
the  Emperor  of  Morocco  and  the  United  Htjites.  Burrouglis  and  Blytlie  eom- 
niauded  respectively  the  American  w;ir-vessel,  the  "  Enterpr  se,"  and  the  British 
brig,  the  "  Boxer,"  which  fought  ofl"  Pemaquid  in  181:$.  After  a  sharp  action  of 
48  minutes,  in  which  both  captains  were  killed,  the  "  Boxer  "  surrendered  and  was 
taken  into  Portlan<l. 

Just  beyond  the  cemetery  is  the  observatory  on  Munjoy's  Hill,  which 
should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  extensive  *view  (small  fee  to  the 
keeper).  To  the  S.  W.,  on  the  heiglits  beyond  Fore  River,  is  the  fine 
castellated  building  of  the  Slate  Ite/orm  School,  with  the  plains  of  Scar- 
borough and  Saco  beyond,  and  far  down  the  coast  is  the  blue  cone  of  Mt. 
Agamenticus.  Portland  and  its  inner  harbor  lie  to  the  S.  and  W.,  with 
Bramhall's  Hill  at  the  further  end  of  the  ridge.  To  the  N.  W.  is  the 
village  of  Gorham  (Maine),  over  Back  Cove  and  Deering's  Oaks,  and  far 
beyond,  SO  M.  distant,  the  White  Mts.  may  be  seen  in  clear  weather.  N. 
E.  are  the  numerous  verdant  islands  in  the  blue  waters  of  Casco  Bay,  with 
the  bending  shores  of  Falmouth  and  Cumberland.  The  lighthouse  on 
Seguin  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  25  M.  distant,  is  easily 
.seen  by  tlie  aid  of  the  telescope  suspended  from  the  loof,  wh"  !  on  the 
E.  is  the  outer  harbor,  with  Peak's  and  Cushing's  Islands,  and  the  mas- 
sive fortifications,  S.  E.  is  t  ape  Elizabeth,  with  its  .summer  hotels,  and 
the  Twin  Sisters  (Portland  lighthouses).  A  short  distance  beyond  the 
Observatory  is  the  Eastern  Promenade.  The  Marine  Hospital,  which 
may  be  seen  from  tliis  point,  is  a  fine  building  fronting  on  the  Bay  at 
Martin's  Point. 

The  U.  S.  Custom  House  is  an  elegant  granite  building  in  the  peculiar 
stjde  which  has  been  introduced  Ijy  tlie  architects  of  the  present  Adminis- 
tration. The  inner  hall,  with  its  ehiDorate  marble  ornamentation,  is 
worthy  of  a  visit.     A  short  distance  N.  E.  of  the  Custom  House  are  tho 


Congress 
nade  on 
y  be  o))- 
sections, 

a  Scotia 
loir.t  up 
Bishop's 
ale  Con- 
l)uil(ling 
the  old 


^ins  Bur- 
id  was  an 
he  squad- 
l)y  several 
ir  ])etween 
ythe  eom- 
lie  Britisli 
action  of 
d  and  waa 


ill,  which 
ee  to  the 
the  fine 
of  Scar- 
16  of  Mt. 
W.,  with 
W.  is  the 
?,  and  far 
ther.     N. 
Bay,  with 
house  on 
,  is  easily 
'  1  on  the 
the  mas- 
lotels,  and 
3yond  the 
tal,  which 
le  Bay  at 

e  peculiar 
:  Adminis- 
itation,  is 
se  are  tho 


73 


KTTjAM). 


IK 


RUIiWAY  STAT'ONS. 

1 1.  Fvi-hu'ii/iTivd St.JJin . 

Sf-hiHft  and y  f/riiuitv    Jtfi 

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HAlliWAY  STATIONS 

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tained.     Eac 
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Congress  8t. 
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1 


ENVIRONS   OF    POIITLANIJ.        Route  37.    273 

J  iers  of  the  New  York,  Boston,  aiul  Liverpool  lines  of  steamers,  aud  the 
i.-xtensive  termitial  station  of  the  Gnmd  Trunk  Hallway. 

The  *  Post  Office  is  a  beautiful  structure  of  white  Vermont  marble,  built 
in  the  mediaival  Italian  aroliitccturc,  with  an  elegant  ui>per  portico  sup- 
ported by  Corinthian  columns,  Tliou^di  small,  this  is  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  pleasing  of  the  national  ])uildings  in  New  England.  In  this 
vicinity  are  the  stately  buildings  of  the  City  Hall  and  the  Falmouth  Hotel, 
with  many  line  commercial  buildings.  Heyoml  the  Mechanics'  Hall  a 
succession  of  fine  residences  are  seen  stretching  up  the  slopes  of  liram- 
hall's  Hill,  on  streets  so  thickly  lined  with  shade-trees  as  to  have  given 
to  Portland  the  name  of  "the  Forest  City."  The  trees  in  the  central 
streets  were  destroyed  during  the  great  tire  of  18t)t3. 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  has  good  collections  of  shells,  minerals, 
birds,  &c.  ;  and  the  libraries  of  the  Atiiena-um  and  Institute  are  often 
visited.     There  are  several  neat  stone  churches  in  the  city. 

The  connuercial  facilitii^s  of  Portlaml  liavi^  hci'ii  Kri'atly  increased  by  the  con- 
strui'tion  of  a  iiiar;,'iiial  railway  aloii.i;  tlic  water-front  oi'thc  city,  with  side-tracks 
ruiniiu}^  down  the  wiiarves.  Tiio  cliicf  naval  visitor  since  1775  was  the  leviathan 
steanisiiip  "(Jrcat  Kastcrn,"  which  is  |  M.  long  and  wci^,'lis  'IIJAM)  tons,  yet  it 
found  ample  dcjith  of  water  here.  The  principal  trade  of  I'ortland  has  l)ecn  with 
Havana,  vast  amounts  of  sliooks  aiid  suj,'ar-l)arrcls  havin;^  hetni  sent  there,  and 
repaid  hy  return  car;^oes  of  sugar  and  molasses,  which  were  worked  over  in  large 
refineries  in  the  city.  Hrown's  sngar-lionse  is  tht;  lofty  Imilding  with  many 
small  windows,  bet\.e  n  the  railroad  station  and  tlie  city.  It  was  rebuilt  within 
(JO  days  after  the  (ireat  Fire.  In  1S70  then;  were  received  at  Portland  nearly 
15,01)0  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  4.0,000  hogsheads  of  molasses. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  fn^Mi  Lake  Sebago,  17  M.  distint,  wh'.'h  is  247 
ft.  above  tide-water,  and  is  sa,.i  to  ha  v'l  the  purest  lake-water  in  tlu;  v>orhl.  20 
M.  of  i)ij)es  umlerlie  the  city  and  convey  the  w.iter  to  all  its  parts.  There  are 
here  3  daily  i»ai)ers,  7  weeklies,  and  .{  monthlies. 

Evergreen  Cennitery  is  2\  M.  from  I'ortland  (l)y  stage  or  railway),  and  has 
l>leasant  '.voodland  grounds  covering  .')')  acres.  Tlicre  is  a  line  (Jothi<!  monument 
of  Caen  stone  over  the  remains  of  William  Pitt  Fessenden,  U.  8.  Senator  from 
1S51  to  lS(j',t. 

Portland  was  the  liirthi)lace  of  Henry  W.  Longfellow,  the  i>f.et  ;  N.  P.  Willis, 
the  poet  and  traveller  ;  Sara  P.  Parton  (Willis's  sister),  who  wrote  popular  essays 
under  the  pseudonym  of  "Fanny  Fern";  luastus  and  James  Lruuks,  the  New 
York  journalists  and  ]>oliti(ians  ;  Rear-. admiral  Allien,  who  was  distinguished  iu 
the  navai  battles  at  Vera  ("ruz.  New  Orleans,  and  .Mobile  ;  Commodore  Preble, 
who  conuuanded  in  the  Tripolitan  War;  Capt.  (i.  II.  I'reble,  who  fought  iu  the 
Mexican  and  Secession  wars  ;  John  Neal,  the  poet  and  novelist ;  and  Neal  Duw, 
the  reformer. 

Environs  of  Portland. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  S.  of  the  harbor,  and  stretches  its  rugged  cliffs  into 

the  ocean.     The  drives  over  this  surf-beaten  promontory  are  very  pleasant 

I  during  the  summer,  and  extend  to  the  Twin  Sisters  lighthouses,  at  the 

I  end  of  the  cape,  9  M.  from  the  city.     The  Cape  Cuttage  is  3  M.  from 

I'ortland,  and  is  a  large  and  picturesfiue  hotel,  built  of  stone,  and  accom- 

luoilating  100  guests  (frequent  stages  to  the  city).     The  scenery  is  fine, 

cm  bracing  the  shoreless  ocean  on  one  hand  and  the  entrance  to  the  harbor 

12*  B 


J 


m 


274    JHouteSr.        ENVIRONS  OF  PORTLAND. 


u 


'  i 


■  1 


on  tlie  other.  5  M.  beyond  this  jioint  is  the  Ocea7i  House,  a  large  hotel 
near  a  hard,  sandy  Iteach,  witii  good  facilities  for  surf-bathing.  10  M. 
from  Portland  is  the  Atlantic  House,  on  Scarborougli  Beacli.  The  l'(trt- 
land  LijlU  is  3.j  M.  from  the  city,  on  a  high  blulf  which  commands  broad 
sea-views.  A  steam-ferry  runs  from  Custom  House  Wharf  to  Cape 
Eliznbeth  village,  and  ^  M.  from  its  i)ier  is  Fwt  Preble,  a  small  but  strong 
work  on  a  commanding  point.  To  the  N.  is  the  town  of  Ca})e  pjlizabeth, 
and  2^  M.  from  Portland  is  the  f'ne  building  of  the  State  Jifform  Sehot/l. 

Steamers  run  several  times  daily  (in  summer)  to  the  islands  in  Casco 
Bay.  This  is  one  of  the  jdeasantest  short  marine  excursions  on  the  coast, 
and  can  be  made  in  3-4  hours,  although  it  is  better  to  go  down  on  a  fore- 
noon boat,  dine  at  the  Ottawa  House,  spend  the  afternoon  on  Cushing's 
Island,  and  return  on  the  afternoon  boat. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  pier  and  j)asses  into  the  harbor,  with  Fort 
Preble  on  the  low  point  to  the  r.,  and  the  more  powerful  works  of  Forts 
Scammel  and  Gorges  on  islands  in  front.  Beautiful  retrospects  are  af- 
forded of  Portland,  rising  in  terraced  lines  along  its  hills.  Casco  Bay, 
over  a  snuvll  part  of  whic^  the  steamer  jxisses,  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque of  American  bays,  and  some  enthusiastic  persons  rank  it  next  to 
the  Italian  Bay  of  Naples.  It  is  popularly  supposed  to  contain  365 
i.ciands  (like  Lake  Wiunejiesaukee),  and  its  green  archipelago  abounds  in 
good  fishing-places.  Boats  of  all  sizes,  with  experienced  captains,  may 
be  hired  in  Portland.  Diamond  Island,  about  .5  jM.  from  the  city,  is  fre- 
quently visited  by  large  parties,  and  has  noble  groves  of  old  trees,  with  a 
bold,  rocky  shore  opening  occasionally  in  level  strips  of  beach.  Diamond, 
Pleasant,  and  Indian  Coves  are  beautiful  and  sequestered  inlets,  bordered 
with  beeches,  majjles,  and  oaks.  Peak's  Island  is  4  M.  from  the  city, 
and  is  a  popular  summer-resort  for  the  people  of  Cumberland  County. 
There  are  several  small  and  inexpensive  hotels  h'jre  (Casco  House,  Union 
House,  ai.  I  others),  and  line  views  of  the  city  with  its  harbor  and  de- 
fences, the  curving  coast  of  Cape  Elizabeth,  and  the  shoreless  ocean,  are 
enjoyed. 

♦Cushing's  Island  is  3 - 4  M.  from  the  city  (frequent steamers),  and 
is  the  outermost  of  the  islands  in  this  direction,  facing  the  ocean.  The 
*  Ottawa  House  is  the  only  one  on  the  island,  which  covers  250  acres,  and 
is  composed  of  high  bluffs.  This  hotel  is  a  favorite  resort  for  Canadians, 
who  are  usually  in  the  majority  here.  The  building  is  of  brick,  and 
accommodates  150  guests,  at  $14-18.00  a  week.  The  view  from  the 
cupola  of  the  Ottawa  House  (ior  patrons  only)  is  beautiful,  including  on 
one  side  the  lovely  islets  of  Casco  Bay,  then  the  level-horizoned  ocean, 
the  ship  channel,  and  the  bold  shores  of  Cape  Elizabeth.  But  the  view 
over  the  harbor  towards  and  including  Portland  is  the  most  pleasing. 
The  forts  are  seen  in  the  foreground,  Peak's  Island  on  the  r.,  and  in  the 


BOSTON  TO   POllTLAND. 


Rviik  3S.    275 


hotel 
10  M. 

i  broad 
)  Cape 
.  strong 
zabeth, 
Hchool. 
1  Casco 
le  coivst, 
\  a  fore- 
usUing's 

ith  Fort 
of  Forts 
i  are  af- 
■ico  Bay, 
iiost  pic- 
t  next  to 
itain  365 
lounds  in 
lins,  may 
ty,  is  fre- 
:s,  with  a 
ianioud, 
bordered 
the  city, 
(joiinty. 
,e,  Union 
and  de- 
(cean,  are 

ers),  and 
;an.     The 
Lcres,  and 
'anadians, 
frick,  and 
from  the 
Lding  on 
ted  ocean, 
the  view 
pleasing. 
,nd  in  the 


llu^ 


remotij  N.  W.,  if  the  day  is  clear,  tlie  White  Mts.  are  visible,  Sandy 
bt'aches  for  batliitij,',  atid  rocks  projectinj,'  in  deep  water,  for  fishin;;,  lie 
along  the  sliore.  An  cniboNvurod  patli  leads  along  the  ridge  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  island,  ])assing  tlirou|^'h  ii  line  (-('(lar  fon'st.  TIic  walk  ciids  nn 
the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice  of  storm-beaten  rock  (t-alleil  White  Head), 
connnanding  fine  views  of  the  ocean,  the  bay,  and  the  city. 

Steamers  run  occasionally  in  the  summer  up  the  length  of  Casco  Bay, 
to  llarpswell,  a  (piiet  old  peninsular  town  rendiM-ed  classic  by  Mrs. 
Stowe's  romance,  "  The  Pearl  of  Orr's  Island,"  and  by  Whit  tier's  jmeni. 
"The  Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell."  Portland  to  Bangor  ami  St.  Jolm,  see 
lioute  47  and  49. 

38.  Boston  to  Portland. 

By  the  Boston  ami  Maine  Raihoad.  —  Boston  tu  Portlaml,  115  M,  ;  faro  S.^.OO. 

After  leaving  the  terminal  station  on  Ilayniarket  S(iuare,  IJoston,  the 
line  crosses  the  Charles  liiver,  i)asses  over  Prison  Point,  in  Churlestowu, 
stops  before  the  crossings  of  the  Fitchburg  and  the  Eastern  Railroads, 
and  reaches  Somervillu  station.  On  Wintc^r  Hill,  in  this  town,  the  cap- 
tive army  of  Burgoyne  was  cantoned  for  many  months.  The  city  of 
Somerville  was  named  in  honor  of  Richard  Somers,  a  brave  naval  oflicer, 
who  was  killed  in  the  Trijjolitan  War.  Leaving  Charlestown  Heights 
on  the  r.,  the  line  crosses  the  broad  Mystic  River,  and  stops  at  E. 
Medford,  whence  a  branch  line  runs  to  Medfonl,  a  busy  village  interested 
in  .ship-building  and  other  i)rotitable  industries.  Tufts  College,  a  tlourish- 
ing  institution  under  the  cave  of  the  Universalist  Church,  is  near  Medford, 
and  on  Ship  St.  is  a  solid  and  low-windowed  brick  house  that  was  built 
by  Gov.  Cradock's  nien  in  16-34. 

Station,  Maiden  (Maiden  House,  Pratt's  Hotel),  the  old  "  Mystic  Side," 
and  now  an  important  manufacturing  village  near  the  clustering  hills 
which  were  likened  by  President  Dwight  to  "  the  sweeping  llourislies  of  a 
graceful  penman." 

Adoniram  Judson,  the  apostle  of  Burmah,  was  born  at  Maiden  in  1788. 
He  spent  40  years  in  and  near  Rangoon,  translated  the  Bible  and  other 
books  into  Burmese,  a^d  although  he  was  at  times  cliained  and  impris- 
oned, he  succeeded  in  building  up  a  powerful  church  with  thousands  of 
members. 

Stations,  Wyoming  and  Melrose,  pleasant  suburban  villages  of  recent 
origin.  Spot  Pond,  a  favorite  summer-day's  resort,  is  lt;ss  than  2  M.  W. 
of  Wyoming.  Stoneham  station  is  2  M,  E,  of  the  village  of  Stoneham 
(Central  House),  to  which  it  is  joined  by  a  horse-railroad,  Stoneham  has 
22  shoe  factories,  and  does  a  busines.)  of  about  §  3,000,000  a  year.  The 
main  line  next  passes  Greenwood,  then  runs  along  Crystal  Lake  (on  the 


270     Route  SS.     WAKEFIELD  TO   NEVVIiUUYI'OUT. 


1^ 
r.  I 


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1.),  and  stops  nt  WaluflcM  .Iiinction,  whence  a  branch  line  diverges  to  the 
E.,  reucliiiig  Salcni  by  way  of  Lynnli»!ld  and  k'eubody. 

Wdh'Jir/il  to  Nf'whuri/port. 

A  branch  railroad  runs  from  Waktriild  Jiniction  to  Ncwbnryport  in  30 
M.  Lcavinj,'  tlm  elegant  mansion  and  grounds  of  Cyrus  Wakelield,  and 
Wakefield  Hall,  his  princely  gift  to  the.  town,  on  the  1.,  and  the  exlensivo 
r:itt an- works  on  Ihe  i'.,  the  branch  line  soon  crosses  the  Saugus  River,  and 
enters  Essex  County.  Stations,  Lynnlield  Centre,  W,  Danvers  (where 
the  Salem  and  Lowell  Railroa<l  is  crossed),  and  Danvers.  Tin;  latter  is  an 
ancient  town,  which  was  settle<l  before  the  mitldle  of  the  17th  century. 
The  witchcraft  delusion  arose  here  in  1G92,  and  in  1774  a  strong  IJritish 
force  was  cantoned  on  Danvers  Plai'-s,  in  order  to  overawe  Essex  County. 
The  town  is  now  dependent  on  large  shoe  manufactories,  with  carpet- 
works  and  a  rolling-ndll.  The  train  soon  crosses  the  Salem  and  Lawrence 
Railroad,  and  runs  N.  through  the  thinly  settled  towns  of  Central  Essex. 
Station,  Topsfleld  (Topsfield  House),  settled  in  1G;39,  on  the  scanty  in- 
tervales along  the  I])swich  River.  Box  ford,  a  sterile  town,  was  incor- 
jjorated  in  1G86,  and  has  two  box -factories.  Station,  Georgetown  (Pen- 
tucket  Hon  e),  a  bright  and  busy  village  E.  of  the  railroad,  with  consid- 
erable manufactories  of  boots,  shoes,  and  carriages.  George  Peabody, 
the  eminent  i»hilanthroi)ist,  was  employed  in  this  town  in  his  younger 
days  (1812-13),  and  has  evinced  h.is  pleasant  memories  of  it  by  present- 
ing to  Georgetown  a  tine  ]niblic  library  and  fund.  The  Memorial  Church 
is  a  monument  of  his  fdial  regard.  S.  W.  of  the  village  is  Bald  Pate,  the 
highest  hill  in  Essex. 

A  branch  railroad  runs  N.  W.  from  Georgetown  through  the  towns  of 
Groveland  and  Bradford,  to  the  city  of  Haverhill  (7^  M.). 

The  train  crosses  the  town  of  Newbury,  and  in  9  M.  from  Georgetown 
reaches  Ncwlnn-yjwrt  (see  Route  87). 

Wakelield  was  settled  in  1G30,  and  was  for  over  two  centuries  known  as 
S.  Reading.  In  18(58  it  assumed  its  present  name  in  honor  of  a  Avealthy 
citizen  who  had  greatly  beneliteil  it.  Cyrus  Wakefield  introduced  the 
rattan-working  industry  into  this  country,  and  has  large  factories  here. 
His  fine  residence  is  seen  near  the  track.  The  town  has  4,135  inhabitants, 
and  possesses  several  shoe  factories. 

Passing  Lake  Quanapowitt  (on  the  r. ),  the  train  reaches  Reading^ 
devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes,  cabinet-ware,  organs,  &c.  Stations, 
Wilmington,  Wilmington  Junction  (where  the  Salem  and  Lowell  Railroad 
crosses  the  jtresent  route),  Ballardvale  (with  factories  making  files,  Bris- 
tol polish,  and  tlannels),  and  Andover  {Elm  House;  Afandnn  House). 
This  ancient  academic  town  was  settled  about  1G43,  on  the  Indian  domain 
of  Cochichewick,  which  was  bought  from  the  natives  for  $2G.64  and  a 


] 


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1 


ANDOVEll. 


J{»,((c.is.    277 


,0  the 


in  30 
\,  and 
i-nsivo 
;r,  and 
(where 
L;r  is  an 
•ntury. 
UiilisU 
'ounty. 
c-arpet- 
iwrence 
Essex. 
mty  in- 
s  incor- 
n  (Pen- 
consid- 
'cal)ody, 
younger 
pvesent- 
Church 
'lite,  tiie 

)wn8  of 


|)rgetown 


tnown  as 
J  Avealtliy 
liced  the 

its  iiere. 

ibitants, 

leading^ 

stations, 

iRailroad 

]es,  Bris- 

Ilouse). 

■i  domain 

U  and  a 


coal;.  Anilovcr  lia<  sotno  active  niannfaitnres,  Imt  is  cliiflly  fiinied  fur  ils 
schools.  The  l'iuich;inl  High  School  is  a  local  iiistitntion  of  high  sfuutl- 
ing.  I'hillips  Academy  occuj)ie8  a  fine  bnilding  on  the  hill,  anil  is  of  wiilo 
reputation.  It  was  endowed  hy  the  rhillijjs  family,  in  1778,  with  .?  S.'»,000 
an<l  consi<leraMe  h'nded  estates,  and  has  since  occupied  a  prominent  posi- 
tion. The  Abbot  Fennile  Seininary  is  an  old  and  famous  school  for  youii<» 
ladies.  The  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Congit-gational  Church  was 
founded  about  1S08,  and  soon  after  received  liberal  endowments  (,§  12' >, 000 
from  Samuel  Abbot  and  .S'J'>0,000  from  William  IJartlett).  This  insti- 
tution has  long  beeTi  "  the  school  of  the  pro])hots  "  for  the  sect  to  which 
it  belongs,  and  has  |»repared  its  ablest  divines  for  their  work.  Up  to  1871 
it  had  graduated  2,11)1  men,  and  in  lS7'i  it  liad  7  professors  and  81 
students.  It  is  umler  the  Presidency  of  E.  A.Park,  I).  I).,  a  prominent 
divine,  who  is  also  the  editor  of  the  learned  <piarterly,  the  iJihliotlu-'ca 
Sacra,  which  is  published  here.  Its  buildings  are  very  ])lain,  causing  the 
visitor  to  wonder  "if  orthodo.x  angels  have  tiot  lifted  up  old  Harvard  and 
Massachusetts  Halls,  ami  carried  them  by  niglit  from  Camhridgi^  to 
Andover  Hill."  IJut  the  situation  is  one  of  extreme  beauty,  and  tho 
grounds  are  quiet  and  abounding  in  trees.  In  front  of  the  line  of  build- 
ings is  a  long  walk  shaded  by  four  lir>es  of  trees,  near  who.se  upper  end  is 
Brecliin  Hall,  a  handsome  biiilding  of  local  stone,  which  contains  a  library 
of  about  30,000  volumes,  and  a  few  curiosities.  A  copy  of  Eliot's  Indian 
Bible,  a  super!)  copy  of  the  Codc.x  Sinaiticu.s,  and  vf.rious  trophies  from 
the  mission  fields  are  to  be  seen  here. 

John  anct  Peter  Smith  came  to  Andover  from  Brechin,  in  Si  'tland,  many  years 
ago,  an<l  amnssc<l  I;ir;,'e  t'ortiiiu's.  Tlicv  built  and  ;.;.iv<'  IMcchiii  Hall  to  the 
Seminary,  and  enn  ted  iiol)le  schools  in  their  native  Bruchin,  on  a  hill  which  they 
caused  to  be  named  Andover  Hill. 

S.  of  the  grounds,  and  near  the  Mansion  House,  is  the  old  home  of 
Leonard  Woods,  D.  D.,  an  eminent  Calvinistic  theologian,  who  taught  in 
the  Seminary,  1808-46,  meanwhile  holding  controversies  witli  the  Uni- 
tarians on  one  side,  the  Episcopalians  on  the  other,  and  the  Baptists  and 
Swedenborgians.  The  Printery  and  several  dormitory  buildings  are  ou 
streets  near  by. 

Andover  was  so  named  because  its  first  settlers  came  from  Andover  i:i 
England.  It  supported  100  men  in  the  Continental  Army.  Elizal)cl.?i 
Stuart  Phelps,  authoress  of  "Sunny  Side,"  &c.,  and  her  daughter,  E.  S. 
Phelps,  authoress  of  "  Gates  Ajar,"  &c.,  were  boni  here. 

Tliere  are  pretty  ponds  in  Andover,  and  the  valley  of  the  Shawsluno 
River  has  some  pleasant  rural  scenery,  while  the  view  from  Andover  Hill 
(at  sunset  especially)  is  highly  praised.  Many  summer  visitors  stay  here, 
partly  attracted  by  the  fine  society. 

After  leaving  Andover,  the  train  arrives  at  S.  Lawrence,  opposite  tho 
city  of  Lawrence.     Some  of  the  through  trains  cross  the  river  and  enter 


278       Ilnufr.lS. 


LAWflKXCF': 


► 


i  I 


tlio  city,  wliilc  otiirrs  do  not,  1>iit  procndl  down  ihv  r.  bank  of  the  rivor  to 
lliiVfiliill.  If  is  Iiiit  ;i  lew  minutes'  walk  over  the  Merriniae  Iliver,  wliilo 
from  tlic  bridge  tli(!  traveller  gots  views  of  the  great  dam  (on  the  1.)  and  of 
tlic  long  line  of  factories  (on  the  r.  and  front). 

Lawrence. 

Ilotolg.—  •  Franklin  Ilotiso,  a  small  but  elegantly  aitpointed  hotel  opposite 
the  11.  U.  Station,  !?'J..'il)  a  day  :  fiawrenee  Hotel  ;  Essex  Hotel. 

This  city  was  founiU;d  by  tlie  Kssex  Co!ni»aiiy  in  1844,  and  rontaincd, 
in  1845,  10(1,  ami  in  1S47,  M,00()  inhabitants.  A  iiowerful  stone  dam  was 
built  across  the  river,  K'^'in^'  'i  '^•ill  '^'f  28  ft.  and  a  water-[)ower  e(|ual  to 
10,000  liorse-power.  A  canal  1  M.  long  (larries  the  water  ah)ng  the  lino 
of  mills,  parallel  with  the  river  and  400  ft.  from  it,  and  another  lotig  canal 
is  cut  on  the  S.  bank.  The  [trinripal  factories  art!  the  Pemlxn'ton  Mills, 
28,000  spindles,  >sr)(»  oju'ratives;  the  Everett  Mills,  31,000  spindles,  IW.O 
operatives;  the  Washington  Mills,  <)2,000  sj)indles,  1,'JH.')  looms,  and  2,!KM) 
operatives  (using  1,J{00  tons  of  wool  annually,  making  broaddoMi,  <loe- 
.skins,  shawls,  cambrics,  &c.) ;  the  Pacific  Mills,  1J}<5,()04  sj)indles,  .3,7<52 
looms,  with  a  capital  of  jjjs  2,r)00,000,  eujploying  2,400  women  and  1,200 
men,  making  calicoes,  lawns,  flress-goods,  &c. ;  the  Atlantic  Mills,  .'>6,000 
spindles,  1,538  looms,  with  $1,500,000  capital,  and  1,200  hands,  making 
10,040,000  yards  of  sheetinf,s  and  shirtings  ;  the  Lawrence  Woollen  f'o. ; 
the  Arlington  Woollen  Mills;  the  Russell  Paper  Co. ;  and  several  foun- 
dries, 

Lawrence  (28,932  inhabitants)  is  one  of  the  three  capitals  of  Essex  Co., 
and  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  manufacturing  cities  of  New  England. 
The  mills  are  separated  from  the  city  by  the  caiuU,  and  their  great  depen- 
dent boarding-houses  are  isolated  by  a  wide  green.  The  city  has  18 
churches,  5  Masonic  loilges,  4  lodges  of  Odd  Fellows,  3  weekly  and  2  daily 
new.spapers.  The  Common  is  a  line  green  H([uare,  with  abundance  of 
trees,  having  on  its  N.  side  the  liandsome  Oliver  High  School  and  the 
Central  CVuig.  Church.  On  the  E.  is  the  1st  Unitarian  and  Grace  Church 
(Epis. ),  while  on  the  S.  are  the  elegant  city  and  i;oiinty  building.s.  In  tho 
base  of  the  tower  of  the  City  Hall  are  two  Inige  cannon-balls  which  wero 
tired  from  the  iron-clad  fleet  on  the  rebellious  city  of  Charleston.  Tlio 
"Lawrence  American,"  the  lea<ling  <laih'  paper  of  Essex  Co.,  has  a  fine 
building.  The  city  has  good  public  libraries,  several  of  which  pertain  to 
the  cotton-mills.  The  valuation  of  Lawrence  (1870)  is  §  17,500,000.  On 
a  street  leading  W.  from  the  Common  is  the  stately  and  elegant  church  of 
the  Immaculate  Conception  (Roman  Catholic)  in  ths  purest  of  the  simpler 
forms  of  Gothic  architecture.  This  church  was  six  years  in  building,  and 
is  of  a  handsome  gray  stone,  witli  interior  arches,  columns,  and  a  lofty 
clere-story  and  spire  of  the  same  material.     In  its  vicinity  are  several 


^ 

■^ 


I  ' 


MAVHKIIFI.L. 


lioifft'JS.     271) 


river  to 
r,  wliilo 
)  and  of 


opposite 

)iitainc«l, 
(lain  was 

cMiual  to 

tlie  lino 
Diig  canal 
on  Mills, 
lilies,  9<)») 
an.l  2/.>0«) 
:l(i*ll,  <lo<'- 
lU's,  3,70-2 

an.ll,200 
lis,  r)6,00() 
Is,  niakin;^ 
jollon  Co.; 

eral  fonn- 

ssex  Co., 
Engiantl. 
at  (U'l'pn- 
y  has   18 
and  2  daily 
ndance  of 
ol  and  the 
ace  Chnrch 
gs.     In  the 
which  were 
ton.     The 
has  a  lino 
pertain  to 
)0,000.     On 
t  church  of 
the  sinipK^v 
lilding,  and 
md  a  lolly 
are  several 


f'afliolic  institutions,  which  am  powerful  and  highly  heneficent  m  their 
workings  among  tho  factory  populafions. 

Tlie  f  ity  wfiH  naincil  fnnii  AMmt  I/iwrfnoc,  a  wonlthy  iitv\  itliilanthrojiic  noHton 
nicrch.'mt,  wlin  \v;is  ntw  of  its  I'uuinlcr.i.     If*-  was  a  iiicniluTol  L'oriK'ifH.s  for  ftyvi 

«■;..:  ..A  ....   4  ..    I.*... ^ I I     I  k.>  I  f  k        I  *j  r  .1      I    I . . ...  .    I    i  l.   .     ■ _     cj   .  ■     ..  i  :  />        i^i     i    '      i 


ars. 


4 


Minister  t<i  i;ii;,'l,iiiil  LSI!*  -  Ih:)'.',  ami  riiilowcil  t lie  I.awn'iicp  Sfi«iitific  Mchonl  (at. 
Cam'iriilnf)  with  !?  10(1,000.     His  son  \v,n  ChuhuI  (i..|irral  to  Italy,  l.S(V.'-<»,  aixl  lii.s 
hrtttJK'r  Amos  was  cmiiii'nt  for  liis  K<'iit'i''>sity,  haviii;;  kIvcii  .-Jt -.OOOiOOO  for  cliari 
t.-ililc,  ciliii'iitioiial,  jiixl  ri'li^'ioiis  works. 

Oil."  of  tlio  most  tiirrililc  accidi'iits  in  Amorican  history  took  place  here  Jan.  10. 
isfjo,  wlicn  the  i'l-mltcrtoii  Mills  fell,  on  aiioimt  of  thin  w.ilis  an<l  insiidlcicnt  ;;up 
ports,  and  can;,'!!!  Iik"  soon  iiritr.  limning' alive  many  who  li.id  licrn  ciMRlit  in  tho 
iallinj?  ruins.     ^>'2'>  persons  were  killid  and  wounded  on  that  dre.idful  day. 

The  Lowell  ami  l-;iw  reme  IHvisiou  of  the  IJostoii  and  l.owell  II.  U.  runs  from 
Lawrence  to  Low(dl,  t!irou;:h  the  towns  of  Andover  and  Tewksbury.  There,  are  4 
trains  each  way  daily,  in  lu  minutes.     Distance,  l:t  M   ;  fare,  10  c. 

The  Manchester  and  Lawrence  U.  I{.  runs  N.  W.  to  Mam  hester,  N.  11.,  in  70 
minutes.  Dist.ani'c,  I'd  M.  ;  fare,  SOc.  This  line  passes  throu;.''.i  Mrthm-ii,  a  Honrisli- 
iiii;  hi;;ldand  villa;^e  ne.ir  the  F.ills  of  the  Sjii^^'ot  Itiver.  Ahout  :(  .M.  beyond  Law- 
rence the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  ILinipshire.  St.it  ions,  Salem  .ind  Windham. 
The  latter  villaj{e  is'ij  M.  S.  of  the  station.  This  town  has  a  few  lar^'e  ponds,  and 
CJlehc  .Mt.  (I, .son  ft.  Id-h).  Station,  /'•//// (st.wes  to  vill.iKc  J  M.  K.),  famous  tor 
apples.  200  city  i>eople  spent  th(!  summer  of  187-' anion;,' the  quiet  farms  in  this 
town. 

Station.s,  Wilson's  and  Lnndomlerrji  (st.'i;;es  to  the  villap;,  2  M.  M.).  Thi.s  town 
wa.s  .settled  in  171'.'  l>y  a  eolony  of  Scotch  l'resl>\  terians,  from  L'lster  i'n  ,  Indaml, 
ami  was  named  for  the  old  country  liondoiideiry,  in  whose  lorn;  and  terrible  sie;,'e 
several  of  the  immi;;rants  h.id  been  en^'a;;ed.  Heforo  their  settlement  tin-  distriet. 
w;iH  called  NutlieM,  from  the  abumlaiicc  of  its  'lut -trees,  ( >n  the  iirst  d.iy  of  their 
arrival,  the  settlers  collected  under  a  iiroixt  o.ik-treo,  and  heard  a  sermon  from 
their  jtastor,  after  whii  h  they  be;,'an  to  build  their  cibins.  Although  on  the 
remote  frontiers,  the  town  was  never  molested  l.y  tlie  Lranco-Imliau  marauders, 
commands  to  that  effect  h.ivini,'  been  issued  by  the  .Marquis  de  Vaudreiiil,  flov.- 
fJen.  of  Cana<la,  who  had  been  a  classmate;  at  ('olle^'e  witli  McOregore,  the  I.,on- 
doiiderry  pastor.  The  tirst  American  resistain'e  to  (Jen.  CJaKe's  troops  w.as  when 
a  detachment  man  lied  from  IJoston  to  this  jdace  (C;  M.)  and  ciptured  several 
deserters  from  the  Hritisli  line  rc;^iiiu'nts.  The  townsnieii  rose,  and  pursued  the. 
troops,  and  forced  them  to  release  their  prisoners,  who  liecamc  residents  of  Lon- 
donderry. Colonels  Kccii.  Mc»"leary,  and  (mcu'lt,  and  (ien.  Stark  (victor  at  Hen- 
iiington),  all  of  the  Continental  .\nny,  were  born  liere.  The  Scot(;h-Irish  colo- 
nists introduced  the  potiito,  the  fout-whed,  and  the  loom  into  New  Kn;,duud.  (i 
M.  bevoml  Londonderrv  Station  the  line  enters  the  city  of  .Mam^hesier  (see 
Route"  2(0. 

The  Lawrence  Dmnch  (of  the  Eastern  U.  R.)  runs  from  Lawrence  S.  E.  to  Salem. 


The  main  line  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  follows  (heyond  Law- 
rence) the  r.  hank  of  tlie  Merriniac  River  for  10  M.,  to  tlie  city  of  Haver- 
hill, passing  N.  Andover  and  Bradford. 

Haverhill  {Eafjlc  House  ;  American  Ilotise)  is  a  handsome  city,  built  on 
hills  which  slope  down  to  the  Merriniac  River,  which  is  navigable  to  this 
point  (18  miles  from  the  sea).  In  1830,  it  had  3,912  inhabitants,  and  in 
1870,  13,092.  The  principal  business  of  the  plac(!  is  the  manufacture  of 
shoes,  in  which  it  is  second  oidy  to  Lynn.  In  1869,  t),000  persons  were 
here  employed  in  tliis  industry,  and  over  5,0(10,000  pairs  of  shoes  were 
made. 

Haverhill  has  17  churches,  two  or  three  of  wliich  are  quite  hanrlsonie. 


280     Jtoute  JiV. 


EXETEIl. 


1  , 

}1 


( 


I 


Tlio  now  City  Hall  (on  Mniu  St.)  is  nn  iinposlrif?  l)uiMinR,  w»'ll  ndapti'fl 
for  the  civic!  odicc's.  Finni  (tnldm  Hill  tlurt*  is  a  fine  viitw  of  tho  river 
and  city,  nnd  of  \ho  unciciit  villager  of  Hnwlford  (fiuiied  for  its  acadtniy 
for  girlH,  now  oc<npyiiiK  extensivo  Imildings  nn  a  far-viewing  liill.  This 
academy  wa«  foimdccl  in  1M(».'},  and  was  a  nursery  of  niissionarics'  wivM,  — 
Harriet  Newell,  Mm.  .Judson,  and  others).  1  M.  N.  K.  of  Haverhill,  and 
in  its  rapidly  e.xtending  snhnrhs,  is  the  jtretty  Lake  Kt'noz<i,  surroimded 
by  hills.  A  neat  stone  clnhhouse  has  been  built  on  its  banks  by  sonie 
Haverhill  gentlonien.  This  lake  was  named,  and  has  been  written  of,  liy 
the  ])Oct  Whittier,  who  was  bitrn  at  Haveihill  in  1807. 

A  line  Suhlivrs'  Mainatu'tU,  with  a  statue  of  a  U.  8.  soldier  (lieroie  si/.e) 
on  a  high  pedestal,  all  in  white  marble,  haj  been  erecte<l  in  the  city,  1*'. 
of  the  City  Hall. 

CJeu.  Muses  Ilaztii,  horn  lit  nnvcrlilll  in  17;W,  wns  an  oflflcer  In  the  ennipnivns 
oft'rown  I'dint,  I.niiishnrK.  n'l'l  (.imliec,  (nid  (•(imiiiainl(<l  tlie  -M  t'anadiaii  Ccii- 
tiiiental  lle^'.  ("  Congress's  Own")  frntu  I77<>  t"  I7sl.  llr  tlitii  iiidvciI  fi>  Vti- 
nioiit,  ami  one  of  liis  descemlants  was  (iin.  \V.  II.  Ilaztn,  wlio  Iimik  toiij^.'it  tlio 
('((Miaiiclies,  tlieii  (niiiiiiandeil  a  l>rij,'a(lo  (l!S»il  -  '!)  at  tlic  liatllrsof  Sliilidi,  ('orintli, 
Htone  llivi  r,  Cliickaman^'a,  anil  Mission  !{i(l;^'('.  In  fSlH'rnian's  nianli  to  the  st  n. 
he  eonunanded  tlic  'Jd  division  of  tli(^  l.Mli  corps,  wiili  which  he  stormed  Fort 
McAllister,  at  Savannah,  Dec.  i:{,  lS(it 

Haverhill  was  settled  in  KiU,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Pontneket,  l)y  a  colony 
led  by  Flcv.  .lolin  Ward,  who  came  I'mm  II  ivcrhill  in  Kn^jland.  The  village  chnnji 
was  scientifically  fortified,  hut  the  town  lost  many  mi  n  diirini,'  (iuccn  Anne's  War. 
In  1(}(KS  the  Indians  took  Mrs.  Ilannih  Dnston,  with  her  nn'  "  and  her  child  ((i 
days  old).  The  latter  they  mindcred,  and,  after  a  lonj;  marc'  "on^^di  the  forests, 
told  the  women  that  they  were  to  Im  foncd  to  rini  the  jxann'  'cn  they  reached 

the  vilhiKc     That  ni^'ht  Mrs.  Dnston,  with  the  inu'sc^  and  ..ig  Kurdish  hoy, 

amse  silently  and  killed  10  of  the  VI  Indians.  scal|ie(l  them,  and  drojiped  down 
the  river  in  a  hark  canoe  to  Haverhill.  In  17<)S  the  villa^;**  was  attacked  by  *250 
French  and  Indians,  and  40  of  its  jteoi)lewere  kilhnl  an<l  captnred. 

The  river-road  to  Newbnryport  runs  Ity  the  side  of  tli(^  .Merrimac,  tlnonfrh  a 
pictnrc.s»iiie  siu'cession  of  hill-towns.  Daily  sta;4es  leave  Haverhill  for  Newbiiry- 
ixtrt,  W.  Ameshury,  and  Hampsteatl. 

A  railroad  runs  irom  Haverhill  to  Newl)iu-yi»ort  via  Georgetown,  in  10  M.  5 
trains  daily  are  run  each  way,  in  40-00  nnnutcs. 

After  leaving  Haverhill  the  main  line  runs  N.  into  New  Hampshire. 
Stitions,  Atldnsnn  (stage  to  Hampstead),  Plaidow  (stages  to  Sandown 
and  Danville),  Xeirton,  and  E,  Kivf/.'^tmi  (stage  to  Kingston).  These  are  all 
quitit  farming  towns  in  Rockingham  County,  N.  H.  Station,  Exeter  (good 
restaurant  in  the  station;  S^iimw.scott  House  ;  American  House),  a  pretty 
village  of  3,4o7  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Exeter  River. 
Exeter  was  founded  by  Rev.  John  Wheelwright,  who  had  been  banished 
from  Mass.  for  the  heresy  of  Antimonianism.  He  bought  this  land  in  the 
wilderness  from  the  Indians,  but  when  it  was  annexed  to  Essex  Co., 
Mass.,  in  1642,  he  was  obliged  to  go  into  more  distant  exile.  Tlic  In- 
dians about  Squaniscott  Falls  migrated  to  the  vicinity  of  Troy  (on  the 
Hudson)  in  1672,  but  other  and  tiercer  tribes  menaced  the  village,  and 
nearly  40  of  the  people  were  killed  and  captured  during  the  later  Indian 
wars.     38  men  of  Exeter  died  in  the  Continental  Anny.     In  1781,  Hon. 


. 


EXhrrKii. 


Jioufejs.    281 


0  river 
raiUrny 
,  Til  is 
ivoR,  - 
ill,  and 

ly  HOtnn 

11  of,  by 

oir  si/.c) 
city,  li. 

iiiiimi;-nft 
lian  i'"U- 

1  t(i  V«»- 
mn.M  tlio 

,  ('iii'.lltll, 

(I  till'  St  n, 

>'  a  colony 
^t'  cliunh 
iiu-'a  War. 
r  chiM  (0 
ic  fort'sta, 
V  rciuliPil 
^lish  boy, 
pcd  down 
cd  l.y  250 

tliroMiili  ;v 
iNcwlHiry- 

10  M.     5 

[Tiipshirc. 
ISandown 
!se  are  all 
Iter  (good 
a  pretty 
Icr  Kiver. 
I  banished 
|nd  in  tho 
isex  Co., 
Tlie  lu- 
l'  (on  the 
llapo,  and 
■r  Indian 
■81,  Hon. 


4 


John  rhillipH  fonndcul  riiillipH  A(;ad('iny,  and  endowed  it  with  $  134/K)0. 
Henjtiniin  AblK)t,  LL.  D.,  wum  preiieptor  of  t\^  A^udeniy  fnnu  ITttS  to 
1838,  and  Dr.  Oidion  L.  Houlo  was  preceptor  from  IhJJS  to  1873. 

AmoMX  thn  dlHtiriKuiRJifd  nii'ii  who  linvc  Immmi  pit'pnrcd  forrollivo  Iwrn  rtro.Tnhn 
r'.ckt'iiii'^.  the  Jurist  and  pliilnln>{jHt  ;  Aliiil  Aliliui  ;  .I.S.  Hnckiiiiiinlvr.  Uu' ir 'un- 
l.ir  diviiif  ;  .IiuiicM  Walker,  tlit;  Uiiitariaii  thtolo'^jan  :  Nathan  I,nrd,  I>.  I).,  IMphI- 
dent  of  Durtiiioiith  Colics*',  lN'.'ii-(i;»;  A.  11.  Kvcrt-tt.  M..  D.,  tlut  HccuriipliHliod 
di|iloiiiatirit(to  li4-l)4liiin.  Spain,  an<l  Ciiina):  Natliau  Mali',  LL.  |>.,  the  .jouniaU.Ht  ; 
l,t'vtMvtt  Haltonst.ill,  l,L.  I>.  ;  .).  (J.  ('..u.-HWril.  M,.  I).,  of  tlic  Astor  l.ilmiry  ; 
T.  W.  Dorr,  the  II.  I.  in.snr;,'<'nt  (ioVfriinr  ;  .1.  I'.  CiisJdn^;,  Prt'sidciit  of  iIaiii|Mli>n- 
Hiducy  Cullci^'n,  Va.,  ls21-;t&;  Tlicodon!  l.vMian,  tlif  ptul.inthropiHt  ;  AiplitMis 
Im'IiIi,  Henator  from  .Mii  liij,'an,  l.s,7-,'..l;  (  liirh's  I'aiiif,  of  Vt  ;  .lolm  P.  llaif, 
one  lit"  llm  tlrst  aniisl.ivcry  .senators  (lro«n  N.  II.,  IHJT-.VJ,  and  IS.V) -(1.S) ;  thn 
eminent  hiHtiirians,  Uii'ltard  lilldretli,  . tared  Sparks,  and  (ieor^ce  llincrol't ;  Kd- 
ward  Kverett,  the  stJifesman  and  orator;  It.iniel  Welisfer;  and  Lewis  ('a.ss,  who 
wa.s  liorn  at  Kxeter  in  17X-'.  An  otilier  tiironnh  the  War  of  IM-J,  <i<ivernor  of 
Miehipm,  1H1:{-;U,  Secretary  <tf  War  nnijer  .Jackson,  Minister  to  France,  i,s;KI- 
4"J,  (.'ass  camt!  near  bein^;  ch'cted  President  ot  the  V.  S.  in  IslH.  rc"ci\  in;,'  lit?  eiec- 
tornl  votes  to  H);i  nivcn  I'nr  (ien.  Taylor,  lie  was  U.  S.  Senator,  l.s j.">-s,  and 
ls.")l-7,  and  from  1H'>7  to  Dec,  l,S<;<»,'was  Secretary  <d'  State.  Mis  iiojicy  wan 
steadily  prosl.ivery,  but  he  favored  the  national  Kovcrtniieiit  dnrin„' the  Keliellioii. 
Il(;  tlicd  in  'nm,  at  Detroit,  where  .'■>4  years  liefore  he  had  been  m.ide  prisoner  by 
t!ie  Uritish  (witli  the  whole  Army  uf  the  Northwest)  while  u  captrtiu  in  tho  od 
Ohio  Ue^'iment. 

The  Academy  bnildings  are  pleasantly  sitnated  on  an  elm-aliaded 
campus,  and  are  mostly  of  the  oM-time  archite<;ture.  Tho  Kobinson 
t'eniale  Seminary  is  also  loc  'cd  in  Exetur,  and  is  of  modern  foundation 
and  richly  endowed. 

Exeter  is  a  fanning  town,  and  in  the  village  are  the  Ilockingham  County 
buildings.  Th(!  Scpiamscott  Falls  furnish  a  water-power  which  is  utilized 
by  works  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton  and  woollen  cloths,  and  car- 
riages ;  also  for  large  morocco  tanneries,  bra.ss  and  machine  works,  and 
lumber-tnills. 

Stages  run  from  Exeter  to  Kensinjjton,  Amesbnry,  Salisbury,  and  N'esvburyport 
(see  lioute  .'{7)  ;  to  Kiti;,'ston,  Sandown,  Hrciitwood,  Cliester,  an<l  Kn-niont,  tri- 
weekly ;  and  to  Hampton  IJeacli  (see  lioute  :i7)  semi-daily  in  siunmer  and  Sejt- 
temlMir. 

Stations,  S.  Newmarket,  and  Xeuymnrket  Junction  (restaurant),  where 
the  Concord  and  Port.smouth  track  cros.ses  the  present  route.  New- 
market ( I  r<«A//i«7<on.  House;  Newmarket  House)  U  a  village  containing 
cotton  and  lumber-mills. 

Tri-weekly  staj^es  run  from  Newmarket  to  Lee,  Nottinj,'ham,  Northwood, 
Kpsom,  Chicdiester,  and  Concord. 

Station,  Durham,  the  old  Oyster  River  settlement,  many  of  whose  people 
were  killed  in  various  Indian  raids  during  King  Philip's  War.  In  1(J'J5, 
the  village  was  carried  by  assault,  though  defended  by  12  garrison -hou.sos, 
and  nearly  100  of  its  i)eople  were  killed  or  captured.  The  town  is  now 
known  foi  its  excellent  hay-cro])S,  which  are  obtained  from  the  deep 
argillaceous  loam  along  the  Oyster  River.  Over  1,000  tons  are  exported 
annually.    Stations,  Madbury,  and  Dover  (^1  merican  House  ;  New  Homp- 


I 
I'   > 


282    Route  38. 


DOVER. 


shire  House),  a  1)usy  little  manufacturing  city  at  the  lower  falls  of  the 
Cocheco  River.  Dover  has  over  9,000  inhabitants,  3  bunks,  11  churclies, 
4  weekly  papers,  and  extoTisive  njanufactoriis.  The  Cocheco  Mills  em- 
ploy 1,000  IkukIs  and  r^WO  spindles,  with  a  capital  of  .$1,300,000,  and 
make  11,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths  yearly.  The  Cocheco  Print 
Works,  with  240  hands,  print  1(1,000,000  yards  yearly,  and  there  arc 
other  branches  of  industry,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  shoe  business,  in 
which  12  fiTus  are  engaged.  Pretty  views  are  obtained  from  the  hills 
near  the  city,  and  the  City  Hall  is  a  handsome  structure. 

Do'cr  ia  tlic  oldest  jilacc  in  tlie  State,  haviri^^  been  settled  in  the  spring'  of 
l(52.i,  on  the  jioiiit  of  h'nd  at  the  oonlliieiiee  of  the  Newiciiawaniiiek  and  Bel- 
lamy Jlivers  (4  M.  H.  K.  of  the  city).  The  pioneer  colony  was  eoniimsed  of  E|'i.s- 
copalians  sent  over  by  the  Laeonia  Comjiany,  and  they  had  nuieli  trouble  with 
the  Mass.  Puritans.  In  1041,  Dover  was  annexed  liy  Mass.,  and  in  1079  was  re- 
turned to  N.  II.  The  ])eoi)le  had  a  man  to  "  beate  the  drumnie  on  Lord's  <lays  to 
give  notice  for  the  time  of  i>)eelinh'"  unt=!  lOO.O,  wlien  tliey  built  "a  Terrett  upon 
the  meitting  house  for  to  han^  the  Bell.'  In  10J7  they  "chose  by  voet  a  ScoeJl- 
ina,;ter,"  and  in  lO.Vi  they  built  the  meetinf^'-honse  "  40  foote  lonjie  and  26  foote 
wide  "  Major  Waldeine  setth'd  on  the  i»resent  site  of  the  city,  and  built  a  strong 
garris m-house.  Here  he  was  visited  in  KiTO,  durinf;  a  time  wIkmi  jteace  reignetl 
in  this  region,  by  400  Indiaris,  two  eoinj)anies  of  troojis  being  with  him.  He  won 
the  conDdeni  e  of  the  Indians,  and  arranged  a  sliani-hght  between  tiieni  and  the 
colonial  soldiers.  When  tlieir  guns  were  discharged  the  troops  rushed  in  and  dis- 
armed them,  after  which  200  were  sent  to  Boston  as  jirisoners,  Heveral  of  these 
were  executed  on  Boston  < '•  mmon,  and  the  remainder  were  sold  into  slavery  in 
the  West  Indu's.  !.'{  years  later  a  jiowerful  Indian  force  seized  Dover  by  night, 
and  destroyed  4  garrisons,  killing  2S  and  cajituring  20  jiensons.  Walderne,  then 
74  years  old,  and  connnander  of  tiie  forces  of  N.  II.,  they  ca]itured,  and  jilaced 
in  a  chair  on  a  table  within  his  own  hall,  wTere  they  slowly  slashed  him  to  death. 
The  town  was  tin;  ol)jeet  of  other  disastrous  atUicks  during  the  Indian  wars,  but 
was  never  abandoned  by  its  intrc;)id  people. 

Triweekly  stages  run  fmni  Dover  to  Barrington  and  StralTord  (Bow  Lake 
House),  near  Bow  Lake  (which  covers  1,025  acres),  and  the  Blue  Hills. 

Dover  to  Lake  Wumepcsaukce. 

The  Dover  and  Winnepesaukee  Railroad  runs  to  Alton  Bay  (2SJ  M).  Stations, 
Pickering's,  and  Gonic  (with  stages  running  to  Barrington.  St ra (lord,  and  Barn- 
stead).  At  Rochester  (see  page  21:;)  connections  are  nuide  witii  the  i'nrtsniouth, 
Great  Falls,  and  (Jonway  R.  R.,  and  with  the  Portland  and  Rochester  R.  R. 
Stations,  Place's,  and  Farniington  (Elm  //ck.sc),  a  shoe-manufacturing  village  near 
the  Blue  Hills,  or  Frost  Mts.  From  tlie  loftiest  of  these  hills,  Mt.  Mouadnock, 
the  White  Mts.,  and  the  oceai:  may  be  .seen  on  a  dear  day. 

Henry  Wilson  was  born  at  Fan-iingtoii  in  1812.  He  was  educated  with  money 
earnol  by  his  own  labor,  and  settled  at  Nati  'k  (Mass.)  in  18;W,  as  a  shoemaker. 
Declaring  himself  an  imcompromising  foe  of  negro  slavery,  his  abilities  soon  won 
him  honorable  fame  iii  the  State  pnlitics,  ami  after  rksing  from  one  otlice  to  an- 
other for  l.j  years,  he  was  (diosen  U.  S.  Senator  in  185.5.  in  1872  he  was  elected 
Vice-President  of  the  U.  S.  His  most  distinguished  senatorial  labors  were  in 
connection  with  the  antislavery  niovenu-nt  and  the  Kansas  troubles,  emancipa- 
tion, recoi. struct  ion,  and  the  coniiuct  of  the  war. 

After  leaving  Farmington  the  bne  i)asses  three  rural  stations,  and  stops  nt  Al- 
ton Bay,  on  Lake  Winneiiesaukee.  The  Bay  Vi"w  House  is  located  here  (••:*  10.00 
a  week  and  upwards),  and  has  a  large  livery  stable  attached,  with  pleasant  drives 
in  the  vicinity.     (See  jiage  218). 

Stiiges  run  from  Alton  to  the  three  villages  (North,  Centre,  and  Parade)  of 
Barnstead  ;  to  i'ittslield,  15  M  ;  to  Lake  Village  and  Laei>nia,  18-20  .M.  ;  and  to 
Wolflwro,  10  M. 


n 


>l 


OLD  ORCHARD  BE.U'II. 


RmUe  3S.     283 


ills  of  the 
chxirclies, 
Mills  em- 
[),000,  atifl 
eco  Print 
there  arc 
Lisiness,  in 
I  the  hills 


1  sprir'^  of 
k  and  Htl- 
ed  of  E|i.s- 
roublt'  Willi 
079  was  re- 
rd'K  flays  ti> 
'errett  uiioii 
)et  a  8('<ii'li- 
nd  26  footc 
lilt  a  stniiif; 
ace  rt'i^'iii'd 
11.  He  won 
cm  and  tlm 
I  in  and  dis- 
ral  of  tlieso 
I)  slavery  in 
^r  liy  nij^lit, 
Ideine,  then 
I  and  jilaced 

11  to  death. 

II  wars,  but 

(Bow  Lake 
Us. 


fStalions, 
and  Bain- 
irtsnioiitli, 
■ster  R.  R. 
illaj;e  near 
onadiiock, 

with  money 
shoemaker, 
s  soon  won 
)t!i('e  to  an- 
,vas  electeil 
)rs  were  in 
emamipa- 

;tops  nt  Al- 
ere  (.>?  10.00 
saiit  drives 

I'ar.'Hle)  I'f 
M.  ;  and  to 


'' 


The  fine  iron  steamer,  "  Mt.  Washington,"  leaves  Alton  Bay  on  arrival  of  the 
trains,  twice  daily  (in  summer),  t'oj  tiie  villages  ou  the  lake.  The  distance  to 
Centre  Harbor  is  30  M.  (sec  Route  32). 

The  first  station  beyond  Dover,  on  the  main  line,  is  RoUimfirrd,  whence 
a  branch  '  ack  runs  (in  3  M.  )to  the  factories  at  Great  Falls.  Station, 
Salmon  Falls  (Franklin  IIou.se),  the  .seat  of  two  cotton-mills  at  the  falls 
on  the  Newichawannick  River.  At  Salmon  Falls  the  Boston  and  Maine. 
Extension  R.  R.  begins,  and  runs  to  Portland  in  40  M.,  having  been 
opened  to  travel  in  the  spring  of  1873.  Tlic  Boston  and  Maine  cars  for- 
merly ran  from  S.  Berwick  Junction  to  Portland  over  the  rails  of 
Route  37. 

After  passing  N.  Berwick,  Wells  is  reached  (in  14  M.  from  Salmon  Falls). 
The  station  is  about  1  M.  from,  and  is  the  nearest  route  to,  Wells  Beach 
(Atlantic  House;  Island  Ledge  House),  which  is  one  of  the  best  of  the 
Maine  beaches.  Stations,  K<'nnehunk  (about  2\  M.  from  the  maritime 
liamlet  of  iKennebunkjiort),  Biddefard,  and  Snco  (see  Route  37.)  Tlie 
train  cresses  the  Saco  River  between  the  busy  manufacturing  cities  of 
Biddeford  and  Saco,  and  lioars  away  for  4  M.  to  Old  Orchard  Beach 
(*01d  Orchard  House,  400  guests,  .$14-  2r).00  a  week,  -  telegrajih,  band, 
and  ball  and  reading  rooms  in  the  house  ;  *  Ocean  House,  near  the  former, 
and  of  great  extent ;  the  Gorham  and  the  Montreal  llousos  arc  less  ex- 
pensive). The  track  runs  between  tin'  great  hotels  (on  the  1.)  and  the 
beach,  and  the  station  is  very  coinmodiously  situated.  Stages  ru'.  from 
the  beach  to  the  Saco  station  on  Roi'te  37.  This  beach,  which  has  been 
called  the  finest  in  New  Eiigloiid,  extends  from  the  Saco  River  to  Pino 
Point,  at  the  mouth  of  Scarl)orongh  River,  a  distance  of  10  M.,  with  a 
breadth  (at  low  water)  of  300  ft.  The  sand  is  very  hard  and  smooth,  and 
affords  an  adniiralile  drive-way,  *vhile  from  the  absence  of  undertow,  the 
surf-bathing  is  perfectly  safe.  Near  the  hotels  is  a  beautifrl  forest-park 
of  30  acres,  with  pleasant  paths,  arbors,  and  rustic  adornments,  Aboiit 
2  M,  distant,  on  Foxwell's  Brook,  is  a  pi(;tures(i'.ie  waterfall,  60  ft.  higli. 
The  beach  derives  its  name  from  an  ancient  orchard  of  apple-trees,  the 
last  of  which  died  before  the  Revolution,  Old  Orchard  is  probably  the 
most  fa.sliionable  of  tlie  seaside  resorts  E.  of  Hami)ton  and  Rye,  if  not  of 
all  E.  of  Swar:pscott. 

5.J  M.  from  Old  Orchard  is  Srtirhnrov.rjh  station,  which  is  aboitt  3  ^L 
from  Scarborough  Beach.  The  train  now  runs  over  Cape  Elizabeth, 
crosses  Fore  River  on  a  long  and  costly  bridge,  and  enters  Portland, 
G^  M.  from  Scarborough,  and  115  M.  from  Boston, 


.  .-«-v    ,,2r' 


284    Route  30. 


LAKE  SEBAGO. 


B  'i 


%:      ^ 


f: 


t 


I' 


1^ 

II:        I 


39.  Portland  to  the  White  Mts. 

Portland  to  \.  Conway,  GO  M.,  by  the  Portland  and  Opdenshnrjj  Railroad. 
This  line  is  n  being  ]nishod  forward  from  N.  Conway  into  tiie  Crawford  Notch. 
The  compan,  is  constructing  a  tlirough  route  from  Portland  to  Montreal  and 
Ogdensbiirj;,  for  the  transportation  of  pa.s.songers  and  of  Western  jtroduce.  It 
has  already  ])een  built  from  Portland  nearly  to  the  Notcii,  from  W.  Concord 
through  iSt.  Johnsbury  to  Wolcott  (in  Vermont),  and  for  some  distance  S.  E. 
from  Sheldon.  Considerably  inf)re  than  half  the  track  (in  New  England)  has  been 
laid,  and  the  ends  of  the  various  sections  arc  sluwly  approaching  each  other,  the 
company  being  aided  by  liberal  loans  from  the  towns  on  the  route. 

The  train  leaves  the  union  station  in  Porthmd  under  Braniliall  Hill,  and 
passes  out  to  Westbrook  (in  a  town  of  about  7,000  inhabitant.s),  with 
several  villages  in  which  are  manufactured  cotton  cloths,  twine,  wire, 
and  iron  goods,  with  large  quantities  of  paper.  Immense  quantities 
of  canned  goods  are  prepared  here,  and  the  total  manufactures  of  West- 
brook  amount  to  §3,500,000  yearly.  Station,  S.  Windham,  in  a  town 
which  was  settled  in  1737  and  guarded  by  a  Mass.  fort.  Tlie  Oriental 
Powder  Works  are  located  here,  and  the  Mallison  Falls  on  the  Presump- 
scott  River  are  S.  of  the  village.  Stations,  White  Jiock,  and  Sebago 
Lake,  whence  steamers  leave  for  Harrison. 

Lake  Sebago 

is  14  M.  long  by  11  M.  wide,  and  has  a  depth,  in  some  parts,  of  400  ft. 
6  towns  are  on  its  shores,  and  others  are  located  on  the  comiecting  lakes 
to  the  N.  Fine  steamers  le'ave  Pavilion  Bay  (at  Lake  Sebago  station)  and 
soon  pass  (on  the  r.)  Indian  Island,  and  Frye's  Island,  with  1,000  acres  of 
forest.  When  the  broader  part  of  the  lake  is  gained,  "to  the  N.  E., 
Rattlesnake  Mt.  is  seen  ;  and  in  the  same  direction,  near  the  lake,  is  the 
boyhood  home  of  Nathaniel  Hawthonie.  We  also  pass  on  our  r.  the  14 
Dingley  Islands.  The  scenery  on  the  W.  is  wilder  and  more  rugged. 
Saddleback  Mt.,  in  Baldwin,  is  plainly  visible,  from  which  the  eye  roams 
N.  E.,  beyond  the  Great  Bay,  over  the  Sebago  hills  and  farms  and 
forests.  Still  farther  N.  is  Peaked  Mt.,  beyond  which  the  view  ext(3U(U 
N.  to  Mt.  Kiarsarge  (Pequawket),  so  blue  and  cold  in  the  hazy  distance, 
while  the  White  Hills  may  be  distinctly  seen  if  the  day  is  tolerably  clear." 
The  passage  across  Sebago  ("a  stretch  of  water")  occupies  one  hour,  after 
which  the  steajner  enters  the  rapid  and  devious  Songo  River.  "  It  is  but 
2i  M.,  as  the  crow  tlies,  to  the  head  of  the  river,  and  yet  we  must  sail  6  M. 
and  make  27  turns."  Picturesque  contrasts  of  farm  and  forest,  granite 
ledge  and  intervale,  make  the  voyage  on  these  narrow  waters  pleasant  and 
novel.  5  M.  from  Sebago  the  steamer  enters  u  iock  at  the  conHuence  of 
Crooked  or  Pequawket  River,  wliich  rises  about  35  M.  N.  in  the  town  of 
Albany.  After  rising  several  feet  in  the  lock,  the  steamer  passes  N.  int.) 
tlie  Bay  of  Naples,  near  the  head  of  which  is  Naples  {Elm  House),  a  small 


Railroarl. 
\d  Notch, 
treal  and 
iduro.  It 
.  Conoord 
nee  S.  E. 
)  has  been 
other,  the 

Hill,  and 
its),  with 
lie,  wire, 
quantities 
of  West- 
1  a  town 
Oriental 
Presuinp- 
1(1  Sebago 


|of  400  ft. 
ing  lakes 
ion)  and 
acres  of 
le  N.  E., 
«,  is  the 
the  14 
mgged. 
:ye  roams 
rms   and 
ext(Mi(U 
distance, 
ly  clear." 
our,  after 
It  is  hut 
sail  6  M. 
,,  granite 
,sant  and 
lience  of 
town  of 
is.  into 
,  a  small 


FRYEBURG. 


Route  39.     285 


village  in  a  farming  town.  Before  stojiping  at  this  jdace,  the  steamer 
passes  through  a  drawbridge,  and,  after  leavhig  it,  it  steams  out  on- Long 
Lake.  Tliis  is  a  river-like  expanse  of  water  12-14  M.  long  and  less  than 
2  IM.  wide.  9  M,  from  Naples  the  boat  stops  at  Bridgton,  whence  a  stage 
runs  1  M.  W.  to  Bridgton  Centre  {Brkbjton  Iloiu'ie  ;  Cumberland  House). 
This  is  an  important  manufacturing  village,  with  a  weekly  i)ai»er,  a 
savings-bank,  and  three  churches,  in  a  town  originally  called  Pondicherry, 
from  the  abundance  of  small  ponds  and  wild  cherries  found  there.  This 
village  has  become  somewhat  of  a  summer  resort  in  a  (|uiet  way,  from  its 
virinity  to  the  lake  and  to  picturesque  hill-.scenery.  The  next  stopping- 
])lace  on  the  lake  is  N.  Bridgton  {Lake  House),  a  small  village  on  the 
stage  line  from  Fryeburg  to  S.  Paris.  N.  of  this  place  is  Waterford, 
{Bear  Mt.  House  ;  Forest  House),  a  thinly  settled  town  with  12  ponds  and 
much  picturesque  .scenery.  The  steamer  now  crosses  the  lake  to  Harrison 
(Eiui  House),  a  small  hamlet  at  the  end  of  the  route.  Daily  stages  run 
from  Harrison  to  S.  Paris  on  the  Grand  Tnuik  Railway  (14  M.  N.  E. ; 
fare  ,$1.00). 


After  leaving  the  Lake  Sebago  Station,  the  train  passes  the  stations, 
Jlichville  and  Steep  Foils,  in  the  town  of  Standish,  which  was  granted  to 
and  settled  by  veterans  of  the  Louisburg  campaigns,  and  named  after  the 
Pilgrim  ca]»tain.  Beyond  Steep  Falls,  the  line  follows  the  valley  of  the 
Saco,  and  passes  through  the  town  of  Baldwin  (stations,  Baldmn  and  W. 
lialdu'in).  The  Great  Falls  of  the  Saco  are  seen  from  the  train  beyond 
W.  Baldwin,  near  which  the  Ossipee  River  meets  the  Saco.  The  river 
falls  72  ft.  in  several  successive-  pitches.  The  train  now  enters  the  town 
of  Hiram,  on  narrow  intervales  along  the  Saco,  and  stops  at  Hiram  Br'dge 
{Mt.  Cutler  House).  As  the  train  crosses  the  old  pine-plai)is  of  Hiram 
and  enters  BrownfieM,  occasional  glimpses  are  caught  of  Mt.  Pleasant,  a 
lew  miles  N.  in  Denmark.  This  is  a  lofty,  isolated  mountain,  8-10  RL 
around  at  the  base,  with  a  public  house  on  its  summit,  from  which  the 
view  is  said  to  be  line,  and  by  some  it  is  held  to  be  etpial  to  that  from 
INIt.  Washington.  The  principal  view  is  to  the  N.  W.  along  the  cluster- 
ing peaks  of  the  White  Mtc.  Station,  BrownfieM  {Brownjield  House), 
whose  farm-houses  admit  many  summer  visitors,  Burnt !  Meadow  and 
Frost  Mts.  being  the  principal  objects  of  interest.  Stages  leave  daily  for 
Denmark,  and  for  Bridgton,  on  Lake  Sebago. 

The  plains  along  the  river  grow  wider  and  more  productive,  as  the 
train  passes  on  to  Fryeburg  {Oxford  House),  a  pretty  village  "on  a 
broad,  level  plain,  slightly  elevated  above  the  intervales  of  the  Saco, 
which  encloses  it  in  one  of  its  huge  folds. "  Many  summer  visitors  rest 
at  the  comfortable  old  hotel,  while  others  are  quartere<l  in  the  boarding- 


28G    Route  39. 


FRYEBUllG. 


houses  wliich  are  found  in  the  village.  The  inten'ales  of  Fryeburg  are 
iioted'for  their  richness  and  beauty,  and  contain  nearly  10,000  acres  which 
are  annually  overflowed  and  fertilized  by  the  Saco.  On  these  meadows  is 
the  winter  home  of  large  droves  of  cattle  wlio  graze  on  the  mountains 
during  the  sunimer.  There  are  several  thousand  acres  of  forest  in  the 
town  and  it  is  claimed  that  Fryebui-g  has  more  standing  timber  now  than 
it  had  40  years  ago.  The  princijial  points  for  excursions  are  Stark's  Hill 
(ijOOft.  high),  Jockey  Cai>,  and  Pine  Hill,  eminences  near  the  village,  which 
command  panoramic  views  of  tlie  distant  White  ]\Its.  and  of  Cnocorua. 
]Mt.  Pleasant  is  9  M.  to  the  E.,  and  is  often  visited  for  the  sake  of  its 
noble  over-view,  and  Lovewell's  Pond  is  near  the  village  (by  the  Pine 
Street  road). 

f'ajit.  John  Lovcwell,  the  son  f)f  an  ensign  in  Cromwell's  Puritan  army,  was  an  ahle 
]iartisan  olliccrofthe  colonics.  In  A]iril,  17'2o,  he  lod  -Hi  miMi  from  the  Mass.  fron- 
tier towns  l>y  a  long  and  anluous  march  into  the  iieart  of  the  Peiiuawket  country. 
After  marcliing  over  100  M.,  tliey  reached  Saco  (now  Lovewell's)  Pond  with  .■i4 
men,  and  here  they  cncamiied  fen-  'MS  horn's,  near  the  chief  village  of  the  Indians. 
On  Saturday,  Jlay  G,  while  they  were  assemt>led  around  the  chajilain  on  the 
hoach,  and  ere  the  niovning  devotions  had  been  liuished,  a  gun  was  lieard  and  an 
Indian  was  seen  watching  tlieni.  They  left  their  packs  near  the  jtond,  am'  ad- 
vanced toward  the  intervales,  but  met  an  Indian  in  the  forest  who  shot  and  mor- 
tally wounded  Lovewell,  though  his  own  death  followed  (|ni(Uly.  Meantime  the 
Sachem  Paugus  and  8U  warriors  had  found  and  counted  tlie  packs  and  laid  an 
ambuscade  near  them,  which  completely  entraii]>ed  the  Americans  on  their 
return.  The  magnanimous  Paugus  ordered  his  men  to  tire  over  the  heads  of  the 
invaders,  and  then  to  oind  them  with  rojtes.  With  horrid  yells  the  Indians  leaped 
forth  and  asked  Lovewell  if  he  would  have  (piarter.  "  Only  at  the  nnizzles  of 
your  guns  !  "  shouted  the  brave  captain,  and  led  his  men  against  the  luiiirepared 
enemy.  They  drove  the  Indians  some  rods,  but  were  rejiulsed  by  a  lieree.  counter- 
charge, in  which  f,ovewell  and  8  (»f  his  men  were  killed.  Then  the  Americaus 
retreated  slowly,  fighting  inch  by  inch,  to  a  jiosition  with  the  ]>ond  on  their  lear, 
Battle  Creek  on  the  r.,  and  Rocky  Point  on  the  1.  This  .sheltered  iiosition  they 
maintained  for  eight  hours  against  continual  assaults,  and  at  sundown  the  In- 
dians retreated,  leaving  '.V^  killed  and  wounded,  including  Paugus,  who  fell  late  in 
the  contest.  Throughout  the  hmg  day  the  yells  of  the  Indians,  the  cheers  of  the 
Americans,  and  the  jiattering  of  musketry  resounded  through  the  forest,  Avliile 
Chaplain  Frye,  mortidly  wounded  while  lighting  among  the  foremost,  wa;;  often 
heard  praying  for  victory.  In  the  mooidit  midnight  hour  the  imnincials  re- 
treated, leaving  15  of  their  number  dead  and  dying  on  the  Held,  while  10  of  the 
19  others  were  wounded.  After  sulferiTig  terribly  on  the  retreat,  the  little  band 
i-eached  the  settlements.  The  battle  at  Peijuawket  filled  the  northern  triVws  with 
fear,  and  caused  some  of  them  to  move  to  Canada.  A  long  and  mournful  ballad 
of  30  stanzas  (like  the  oid  Scottish  ballad  of  Chevy  Chase)  commeiuorates  this 
forest-fight. 

••  What  time  the  noble  Lovewell  came 
With  tit'tv  men  from  Dunstable, 
The  crnel  Ift'cniot  tribe  to  tame 
With  arms  uiid  bloodshed  terrible. 


"  Ah!  many  a  wife  shall  rend  her  hair,  r- 

And  inany  a  cliild  cry  *  Woe  is  niel  * 
When  messengers  the  news  shall  bear 
Of  liOvewells  dear-boiigiit  victory. 

"  With  footsteps  low  shall  travellers  po 

Where  Lovewell's  I'ond  sliines  clear  and  bright. 
Anil  mark  the  place  where  those  are  laid 
Who  fell  In  Lovewells  bloody  tight." 

Fryebm:g  was  granted  to,  settled  by,  and  named  for,  Gen.  Joseph  Frye,  of  An- 


PORTLAND  TO   QUEBEC  AND   MONTREAL.     Rnute  40.     287 


lurg  are 
cs  which 
Hclows  is 
oiintains 
,t  in  the 
low  than 
rk's  Hill 
[je,  which 
'nocorua. 
ikc  of  its 
the  Pine 


svas  an  able 
Muss,  fron- 
!t  country. 
1(1  with  M 
If  Indians, 
lin  on   tlie 
lid  and  an 
id,  an('  <id- 
t  and  nior- 
iuitime  the 
lid  laid  an 
s  on   their 
cads  of  the 
lians  leapcil 
Innizzles  of 
iuiirci>ar<'»I 
•(!  coiinter- 
Anieiicuiis 
their  rear, 
isition  they 
\vn  the  In- 
fcll  late  in 
iccrs  of  the 
ri'st,  while 
\va:;  often 
incials  re- 
e,  10  of  the 
[little  band 
triVws  with 
nful  ballad 
urates  tUi3 


rye,  of  An- 


dover,  Mas3.,  a  veteran  ofHcer  of  the  French  wars.  It  wa.^  for  niany  year.s  the 
only  town  near  tlie  White  Mfs.,  and  ^'n;w  r,i]iidly,  ha\  in;,'  a  weekly  in;irkct-<hiy 
wliii'h  tilled  its  streets  with  busy  life.  An  academy  was  early  cstablislied  liere 
(endowed  by  .Mass.).  and  was  tan^'lit  in  ISo-j  by  Daniel  Welister.  (iovernor  Knodi 
Lincoln  lived  licrc  from  isil  to  isr.>,  and  wrote  a  Inn;^'  jioem,  cntitleri  "The  Vil- 
]a,\'c,"  whi(di  was  "  descrijitivc  of  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  fairest  town  on  the 
stream  of  the  Saco."  A  fe* '  l^equawket  Indians  lin;,'crerl  in  this  locality  after  the 
dispersal  of  the  tribe,  and  did  p)o(l  service  in  the  exiteditiou  of  Uogerss  liaugera 
against  St.  Francis,  and  in  the  Continental  Army. 

Stages  run  from  Ftyeburj?  to  Paris,  by  way  of  Lovell.  Sweden.  Waterforil,  and 
Norway  (30  M.) ;  also  by  Hridgton,  IIarrisr)n.  and  Norway (;i"J  M.).  These  towiiM 
are  all  in  the  Petinawkct  country,  and  Lovell  ('2  snuill  inns)  has  the  beautiful 
Kezer  Pond,  which  is  1  M.  wide  and  8  M.  loni;'. 

After  the  train  leaves  Fryubur^',  the  mountain  views  in  front  and  to  the 
1,  are  fine.  The  line  enters  New  Ilainiisliire,  iuid  passe.s  by  Conway 
Centre  to  N.  Conway  (see  page  223)  and  Upper  Bartlett. 

40.  Portland  to  Quebec  and  Montreal. 

Via  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  which  is  owned  and  operated  by  an  An!;,do-Cana- 
dian  corporation.  This  line  is  p'-incipally  used  for  the  transportation  of  freight, 
but  it  run3  one  through  passenger  train  daily.  Portland  to  (iuiham,  '.'1  M.,  in  A\  - 
6  hours  ;  to  Quebec,  317  M.,iull)-:iO  hours;  to  Montreal,  -I'dl  M.,  in  17A-19 
hours. 

The  train  leaves  the  spacious  terminal  statioti  in  Portland,  near  the  Vic- 
toria Docks,  and,  passing  around  Muiijoy's  Hill,  cro.sses  the  mouth  of 
Back  Cove.  Thence  it  runs  through  the  towns  of  Falmouth  and  Cumber- 
land, near  Casco  Bay,  and  crosses  the  Maine  Central  Railway  at  Yar- 
mouth Junction. 

Station,  N.  Yarmouth,  .settled  on  the  Indian  domain  of  We.scustogo 
about  1640,  and  deserted  inlG75-8,  and  TOSS -171 3,  on  account  of  the 
Indian  wars.  On  returning  in  1713,  the  settlers  found  a  young  forest  cov- 
ering their  oM  fields  and  roa<ls.  Between  1725  and  17')!)  many  of  the 
colonists  were  killed  or  captured  by  the  Indians.  During  tlie  first  half  of 
the  present  century,  the  town  grew  and  prospere<l,  but  during  the  past  20 
years  it  has  lost  10  per  cent  of  its  population.  Stages  run  hence  to  Dur- 
ham, on  the  Androscoggin. 

Stations,  Pownal  and  New  fwhnicestcr,  the  latter  being  a  pretty  and 
prosperous  village  whicii  was  founded  by  men  of  Gloucester,  Mass.,  about 
1735.  At  Danville  Junction,  the  Lewiston  Division  of  the  Maine  Central 
Railway  divtirges  N.  E.,  and  nms  to  Lewiston,  Farmington,  Waterville, 
and  Bangor  (see  Route  46.) 

Station,  Mechanic  Falla,  near  a  small  factory  village,  from  which  tri- 
weekly stages  run  to  Sumner  (18  M.  ;  fare,  75  c). 

The  Portland  and  Oxfonl  Central  Railway  nnis  X.  from  Mechanic  Falls,  passing 
tlirough  the  towns  of  Oxford,  Hebron,  Rnektield,  Hartford,  and  Canton  (three 
inns.).  These  towns  were  all  settled  in  the  latter  years  of  the  18th  century,  and 
liie  last  four  ncained  have  been  losing  in  population  for  20  years.    Canton  was  tlie 


I 


k\ 


288    Route  40. 


BETIIKL. 


home  or  tlie  Rockonioka  Indians  (wlio  wore  extf  rmiiiated  hy  the  small-pox  in 
l.')o7\  and  was  settled  in  17'.'-  under  tlie  nanu-  of  l'lii|ij)s-Canada.  It  is  prettily 
situated  near  the  Amlruscn^'j^iu  Jliver,  and  has  so  ue  ricli  intervale  lands. 


I 


li 


f\       's 


J! 


The  next  station  on  tlie  miin  line  is  Oxford  (LalcR  House),  from  which 
tri-weekly  stages  run  to  K.  OlisOcM,  Cusco,  and  Naples. 

Station,  .S.  Vdrvi  (Andrews  House),  a  busy  vilhvge,  with  manufactures 
antl  a  hirge  country  trade.  Daily  stuj^'cs  run  lience  to  Fryeburg,  33  ]\I.  S. 
W.  (fare.  .$2.00),  by  way  of  Norway,  Harrison,  and  liridgton;  also  byway 
of  Wuterfor<l.  Stages  run  from  every  train  to  Paris  Hill  {Ilnhhard 
House;  Union  Jfoust),  3  IM.  N.  E.  This  is  a  village  on  a  hill  831  ft. 
liigli,  where  are  located  the  Oxford  County  buildings.  To  the  E.  is  Mt. 
Mica,  where  beautiful  s])eeiiiiens  of  touinialine  are  ibund,  together  with  15 
other  minerals.  It  is  called  "  the  most  interesting  locality  of  rare  min- 
erals in  the  State  of  Maine."  Streaked  'Mt.  is  near  by,  and  is  nearly 
1,800  ft.  high.  Stations,  W.  P<iris  and  Jtri/anVs  A/zu^  (small  inn),  from 
whidi  tri-weekly  stages  run  to  Milton  Plantation,  Humfonl,  and  Andover 
(21  M.  N. ;  fare,  $l.oO);  also  to  Kiunford,  Mexico,  Dixlield,  and  N.  Jay 
(on  the  '^-.idroscoggin  Railroad).  Another  line  runs  from  Mexico  through 
Roxbury  to  Bj-ron.  Runiford  has  some  high  hills,  — White  Cap,  Glas.s- 
Face,  and  others,  wliich  yield  thousands  of  bushels  of  blueberries  annually. 
The  Rumford  Falls  have  been  calleil  "  the  grandest  in  New  England," 
and  have  suffered  but  little  from  "  iiui»rovement."  The  descent  of  the 
Androscoggin  River  is  over  150  ft.  in  three  or  four  i)lunges  over  ragged 
graiute  ledges.  The  third  fall  has  a  nearly  perpen<licular  descent  of  70- 
80  ft.,  and  its  roaring  is  heard  at  a  great  distance.  There  are  three  taverns 
in  Rumford. 

At  Bryant's  Pond  station  the  track  is  700  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  the 
Pond  itself  is  a  pretty  highland  lake,  from  which  flows  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin River.  Station,  Bethel  (*  Chandler  House,  accommodating  100 
guests  ;  Chapman  House),  a  beautiful  village  in  a  town  of  about  2,200 
inhabitants.  The  Ijroad  intervales  of  the  Androscr  gin  are  outspread  here 
in  all  their  fertility  and  fairness,  while  noble  vie^^  .  of  the  White  Mts.  in 
the  W.  are  obtained  from  adjacent  hills.  There  are  also  mineral  springs 
(small  hotel)  in  the  town,  and  numerous  summer  boarding-houses,  where 
comfort,  (piiet,  and  abundant  country  fare  are  given  for  the  moderate 
price  of  $G- 10.00  a  week. 

Bethel  has  often  been  likeneil  to  N.  Conway  on  account  of  its  mountain- 
views  and  ricli  intervales,  and  many  city  people  spend  their  summers 
here  to  enjoy  the  air,  the  scenery,  and  the  fine  fishing  in  the  vicinity.  12 
^I.  S.  of  Bethel  are  the  Albany  Basins,  where  the  Pequawket  River  has 
worn  a  wonderful  series  of  reservoirs  in  the  talcose  rock,  the  largest  of 
which  is  70  ft.  deep  and  40  ft.  in  diameter.  18  M.  N.  E.  of  Bethel,  by 
good  roads  and  through  pleasant  river-scenery,  are  the  Rumfonl  Falls. 


OILELVD. 


Route  40.     289 


mall -pox  In 
is  prettily 
da. 

Tom  whicli 

tinnfacturcs 
•g,  33  M.  S. 
also  by  wny 
1  (JIuhhard 
hiU  831  ft. 
he  E.  is  Mt^ 
'tht'i-witb  15 
of  rare  min- 
,nd  is  nearly 
ill  inn),  from 
and  Andover 
I,  and  N.  Jay 
L'xico  through 
te  Cap,  Glass- 
rric's  annually, 
e-w  England," 
descent  of  the 
!S  over  ragged 
lescent  of  70  - 
c  three  taverns 

le  sea,  and  the 
Little  Andros- 
mnodating  100 
ol-  about  2,200 
outspread  here 
White  Mts.  in 
tiuneral  springs 
;-houses,  where 
the  moderate 

3f  its  mountain- 
their  summers 
Ihe  vicinity.  12 
Ivket  River  has 
I,  the  largest  of 
?,,  of  Bethel,  by 
limfonl  Falls. 


Bethel  to  Luke  dnbivjoij. 

Seini-weckiy  stHge  to  Upton,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  in  20  M.  :  fare,  $2.50.  The 
country  travorscci  is  jiiit.stly  in  a  wild  stiitcand  tliiiilv  p()piiiatt'<i.  hut  affonls  some 
striking  river  and  mountain  scenery.  Tlu'  Audruscug^iu  is  fcdlowcd  for  6  M.  to 
5.  Xeirry  (small  inn),  atfor  vvhicli  tiie  road  lies  near  tlu-  Bear  River,  and  0  M.  be- 
yond S.  Newry,  Jlartletfn  I'uplur  Tavfm  i.s  i)a.ssed.  The  Screw  Auger  Fall.s  are 
about  ;i  M.  from  tlii.s  iM)int,  and  near  ranning's  .Mills.  ISeycnd  the  Tavern  the 
lugh  hills  of  Grafton  (chief  among  whi(di  arc  Sjiccklcd  and  SiichHcback  Mt-i.)  ap- 
Iiear  to  close  across  the  road.  Hut  ♦lie  Hear  Iliver  is  closely  follnweil  into  Graf> 
ton  Notch,  a  lonely  pa.ss  among  the  frowning  hills.  Tiie  reniarkalde  water- 
gorge  known  a.s  Moosi:  ('liiis)ii  is  situated  in  tliis  uoti'li.  The  small  Cambridge 
Hiver  is  now  ajiproai  lied,  and  in  its  valley  the  road  j)asses  on  to  the  lake.  The 
township  of  Ujiton  (formerly  l^etter  IJ.  Plantation,  and  ma<le  a  town  in  18G0)  ia 
now  entered,  and  the  stage  stojis  at  tlie  LdLc.  House,  on  the  shore  of  L'mbagog. 
Tlierc  are  two  other  inns  in  this  town,  whiidi  has  ISO  inhabitants.  A  steamer 
leaves  the  Lake  H<Mise  on  tlie  arrival  of  the  stag)!,  and  runs  to  Krrul  Iiam  (in  N. 
II.),  a  rude  hinilM-rmcirs  village,  with  two  inns.  DLvvillc  Xotidi  is  10  M.  N.  W. 
of  Errol,  and  the  handsome  village  of  Colebrook  is '20  M.  from  Krro|(bythe  Notch 
road).  From  Hidhel  to  L'oielirook  (see  I'age  '24'.i),  the  distance  is  about  GO  M.  (the 
e.M'ursion  is  not  ncommeiuh'd  for  lailies). 

The  steamer  ascends  the  .Magalloway  Itiver  from  Krrol  PTim  to  Diirfee's  Tiand- 
ing  (12  M.),  whence  adveiitiiious  parties  of  gentlemen  have  ascended  to  Tarnia- 
ehene  Lake  and  Canicl's  liump.Mt.,  which  overlooks  a  wide  and  desolate  wilder- 
ness (.see  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol.  XX.). 


Bethel  was  settled  in  1773,  under  the  name  of  Sudbury-Canada,  and  here,  in 
1781,  occurred  the  last  Indian  depredation  in  Maine,  when  a  small  war-party 
from  St.  Francis  ] plundered  tlie  outlying  liou.ses,  killed  three  men,  and  led  threa 
prisoners  to  Canada. 

Tlie  next  station  beyond  Bethel  is  Gilead,  a  small  village  on  the  fertile 
Androscoggin  meadows,  between  two  ranges  of  shaggy  mountains.  It 
was  named  for  a  great  balm-of-Gilead  tree  within  its  borders,  and  in  the 
early  years  Avas  almost  rendered  untenable  by  bold  raids  of  bears  with 
which  the  hills  were  infested.  On  the  night  of  the  VVllley  slide  in  the 
White  Mt.  Notch  (1S2C),  immense  avalanches  fell  from  the  mountains  of 
Gilead,  especially  frotn  Picked  Hill.  "  The  darkness  was  .so  inten.se  as 
almost  to  be  felt.  The  vivid  lightnings  and  long  streams  of  tire  covering 
the  sides  of  the  mountains  caused  by  the  concu.ssiou  of  the  rocks,  only 
served  to  make  the  darkness  more  visilile.  The  valley  rocked  as  though 
an  earthquake  were  shaking  the  earth." 

Beyond  Bethel  the  railway  passes  the  village  of  W.  Bethel  and  runs 
through  the  glens  of  Gilead  to  Shelburne  (Winthrop  House).  From  this 
point  the  mountain-views  on  the  S.  W.  are  fine,  and  the  train  nins  down 
on  the  r.  baidc  of  the  Androscoggin,  with  Mt.  Moriah  on  the  1.  and  Mt. 
Hayes  on  the  r.,  to  Gorham  (see  page  227).  Station,  Be. din  Fulls  (.small 
hotel),  near  the  famous  Falls  on  the  river,  and  next  to  Berlin  is  Milun, 
"  on  the  plains  of  Lumber-dy."  The  \'\^iw  down  the  rivei  from  Milan  is 
very  beautiful,  including  the  vast  fomis  of  Mts.  Washington,  Adams,  and 
Madison.  E.  of  Milan  is  the  town  of  Success,  with  5  inhabitants,  and 
N.  of  Stark,  through  which  the  train  passes  beyoiul  Milan,  is  the  town 
13  s 


i! 


290    Route  40. 


ST.    HYACINTHE. 


W 


\M 


fl 


M 


of  Oclell,  witli  al)Out  2r),00()  acres  and  1  inliabitant.  Tho  line  now  follows 
the  Ujjper  A'ninonoosuc  Kivcr,  to  Xorthumfjerlaml,  and  thence  passes  up 
the  1.  bank  of  tli.>  Connect  i('ut  llivcr  to  Stratford  and  X.  ^'^trat/ord,  with 
the  Percy  Peaks  on  tlic  r.  (see  ]ta,c;e  2\'i).  The  line  now  crosses  the  river 
and  runs  through  ];'»  M.  of  uninlial)ited  forest  in  Vermont,  to  Island  Pond 
{*  Island  Pond  Hotel  :  American;  (Ireen  Mt.);  a  village  erected  by 
the  railway,  which  has  spacious  buiMings  lu-re;  this  point  being  149 
M.  from  Portland  and  148  M.  from  Montreal.  The  1>order  custom-house  i.<? 
located  here,  and  near  the  village  and  track  is  a  pretty  lake,  2  M,  long 
and  \  M.  wide,  surrounded  by  a  hard,  smooth  })each  of  white  quartz 
.sand,  with  waters  abounding  in  fish.  About  12  M.  beyond  Island  Pond, 
the  train  passes  Norton  Pond,  and  enters  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  In 
the  course  of  the  next  33  M.  the  train  i)a.sses  3  stations,  and  reaches 
Lennoxvillc,  where  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  R.  R, 
(Route  24)  comes  in  from  the  S.  28  M.  beyond  Leniioxville  is  Biohmond 
(on  the  St.  Francis  River),  the  seat  of  St,  Francis  College. 

The  Quebec  Branch  nins  76  M.  N.  E.  from  Richmond  to  Quebec. 
Station,  Danville,  a  pretty  rural  village,  with  beautiful  views  from  Clare- 
mont  Hill  and  the  Pinnacle  (which  is  3  M.  from  Danville,  and  rises  1,000 
ft.  from  the  phun).  Kingsey  Falls  are  7  IM.  distant,  and  are  often  visited. 
Station,  Arthahaska,  whence  a  bruncii  load  runs  35  M.  N.  W.  down  the 
Becancour  valley  to  Three  Rivers,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  10  M.  E.  of 
Arthabaska  is  Itouillard  Ml.,  whence  a  luoad  forest-view  is  gained,  ex- 
tending from  the  St.  Lawrence  40  M.  N.  W.  to  the  bright  Lakes  Aylmer 
and  St.  Francis,  in  the  distant  S.  E.  The  train  now  passes  on  through  a 
thinly  populated  coiuitry,  and  crosses  the  Chaudiere  River  about  8  M. 
from  Quebec  (2-3  M,  from  the  Falls),  and  near  the  point  where  the  Riviere 
du  Loup  Division  (125  M,  long)  of  th  Grand  Trunk  Railway  diverges  to 
the  N.E.  The  train  stops  at  Point  Levi,  opposite  Quebec,  and  pas- 
.sengers  are  carried  across  the  St.  Lawrence  in  ferry-boats. 

Quebec,  see  Route  56. 

From  Richmond  to  Montreal  the  distance  is  76  M.  (almost  due  W. ). 
After  passing  the  co])per-mining  town  of  Acton,  the  train  reaches  St. 
Hyacinthc,  35  M.  from  Montreal.  This  is  a  curious  old  Franco-Cana- 
ilian  city,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  plains  on  both  sides  of  the  Yamaska 
River.  The  Cathedral  is  a  fine  building,  and  the  college  i.s  one  of  the 
best  in  America.  "  The  course  of  studies  here  is  said  to  be  only  eipialled 
by  the  best  Jesuit  colleges  in  France."  Tlie  *  college  building  is  an  im- 
posing structure  of  cut  stone,  700  ft.  long,  and  surmounted  by  a  cui)ola. 
The  fertile  district  between  St.  ilyacinthe  and  Montreal  is  inhabited  by 
the  descendants  of  the  old  French  inuuigrants,  p;  serving  their  language, 
customs,  and  religion  intact.  The  railway  stations  on  this  tract  are 
Soixante,   St.  Hilaire,   St.  Bruno,  St.  Hubert,  and  St.  Lambert.     The 


FARMINGTON. 


Rovte  41.     291 


I 


ow  follows 
!  passes  up 
tfonl,  with 
iS  the  rivor 
land  Pond 
erected   by 
,  being  149 
nm-honse  is 
,  2  M.  long 
hite  quartz 
sland  Pond, 
Divnada.     I" 
and  -caches 
ivers  R.    R" 
s  Biclimond 

to   Quebec. 
s  from  Clare- 
id  rises  1,000 
often  visited. 
W.  down  the 
10  M.  E.  of 
IS  gained,  ex- 
,akes  Aylmer 
on  through  a 
about   8  M. 
2re  the  Riviere 
ly  diverges  to 
)ec,  and  pas- 

nost  due  W.). 
in  reaches  St. 
Franco-Cana- 

the  Yamaska 
is  one  of  the 

only  ec^ualled 
ding  is  an  im- 

by  a  cupola. 

inhabited  by 
Iheii-  language, 
Ithis  tract   are 

.anibert.     The 


singular  nits,  of  Relcril,  Yamaska,  and  Rtiu^r^'inont  are  jiasscd,  and  at 
St.  Lambert  the  train  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  *  Victoria  Bridge. 
Montreal,  see  Route  .14. 

41.  Portland  to  Farmington  and  the  Western  Maine  Forest 

Portland  to  Farmington,  93  M.,  in  5  hours  ;  to  the  Uangcley  Lakes,  VVi  M. 

The  train  loaves  the  Portland  and  Kennebec  station  and  runs  over  Route 
47  to  Brunswick,  where  it  ])asses  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Androscoggin 
Division  of  Iho  ALiine  Central  Railway.  Stations,  LUhi)n  Falls  (a  manu- 
facturing village  on  the  falls  of  the  Androscoggin),  Lishnn,  Vruwleifti 
(whence  a  branch  railroad  diverges  to  Lewiston)  Sahlmtisville,  and  Lrcih 
Junction.  At  this  point  the  present  route  is  crossed  by  Route  4»J,  and 
close  connections  are  made,  so  that  passengers  who  prefer  that  route  may 
avail  themselves  of  it.  For  the  next  12  M.  tlui  line  runs  throtigh  thii 
town  of  Leeds,  stopping  at  the  stations,  Curtia  Corner,  Leeds  Centre,  and 
N.  Leeds. 

Gen.  O.  O.  Howard  was  born  at  Ltcds  in  IS.iO.  lift  graduated  at  West  Point, 
and  was  an  instructor  there  until  the  outhre.ik  ofthi!  Kehelljoii  in  18(51.  I^eadiug 
the  ;id  Maine  Volunteer  infantry  into  the  held,  he  won  distinction  and  a  general's 
ooniniission  at  Hull  Hun,  and  lost  his  right  arm  at  the  hattle  of  Fair  Oaks.  Ho 
c'onunanded  the  lUh  corps  of  the  Army  of  the  I'otomao  at  Fredericksburg. 
Chancellorsville,  and  Gettysburg,  and  then  fought  in  the  Georgia  campaigns.  Hh 
(commanded  the  right  wing  of  Sherman'.s  army  in  the  ni:uih  to  the  sea,  and 
since  the  war  has  been  engaged  in  the  work  of  bettering  the  condition  of  the 
negroes  and  Indians. 

The  next  three  stations  (Strickland's  Ferry,  E.  Livennore,  and  Liver- 
more  Fulls)  are  in  the  long  town  of  E.  Livermo.e,  where  tlie  train  ap- 
proaches the  Androscoggin  River.  Livermoi'c  F'alls  is  devoted  to  nuinu- 
factures.  This  district  was  called  Rockomeka,  or  "great  corn  land,"  by 
the  Indians,  and  is  distinguished  for  its  line  breeds  of  cattle. 

.Inst  across  the  river  is  the  town  of  Livennore,  the  birthplact!  of  tlie  brothers,— 
Israel  Washburne,  Congressman,  ISal-Gl,  and  Gov.  of  Maine,  ISfil-H;  F.  B. 
Washburne,  Congressman  from  Illinois,  l.S.');i -GO,  and  Minister  to  France,  1808-73, 
an  able  statesman  and  skilful  dploniatist  ;  and  ('.  0.  Washburne,  (Congressman 
from  Wisconsin,  18aO-G2and  1S(;7-71,  ;i  successful  general  in  the  campaigns  in  the 
lower  Mississippi  valley,  and  cho.scn  Gov.  of  Wi.seonsin  in  LS71. 

Stations,  Jay  Brid</e  and  X.  Jai/  (stages  to  Dixtield  and  Bryant's 
Pond,  on  Route  40,  in  37  M. ),  in  the  farming  town  of  Jay,  and  Wiltnn,  a 
manufacturing  village,  from  which  stages  run  W.  13  M.  to  Weld  (Mon- 
days and  Fridays),  a  village  (small  inn)  on  the  shore  of  a  lake,  with  lofty 
mts.  in  the  vicinity.  Bear  Mt.  is  on  the  S.,  Ben  Novis  on  the  W.,  Metal- 
lic Mt.  on  the  N.,  and  Bald  and  Blue  Mts.  on  the  E.,  the  latter  being 
nearly  4,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  2,360  ft.  above  the  village.  Stages 
also  run  to  Chesterville,  on  the  E. 

Beyond  E.  Wilton,  the  train  crosses  the  Sandy  River  and  its  intervales 
on  a  broad,  curving  trestle,  and  stops  at  Farmington  {Stoddard  House  ; 


♦I  I 


tr 


'292     Hontr/fl.        THE  RANOELEY   hAKEH. 


f  ► 


M      " 


t 


t 


I ; 


;i  ; 


Foreat  House  ;  Elm  House).  Tlie  town  lias  !},2r)2  iiiliahitants,  with  2 
hanks,  a  weekly  paper,  and  5  clmrclies.  This  bright  village  is  situuteil 
on  the  favorite  grain-lands  of  the  old  C'anihas  Indians,  and  has  also  a 
lucrative  huiilx-r-trade.  The  Western  State  Normal  School  is  located 
here;  also  the  Little  lllue  School,  the  Willows  (girls'  S(;h()ol),  ami  the 
Farniington  dirls'  Scliool,  so  that  this  remote  viihige  on  the  eilge  of  the 
Forest  has  somewh'itof  an  academic  air.  The  Franklin  County  buildings 
are  also  located  here. 

Stages  run  fnnii  ranniii;4ton  to  Temple  ;  to  Strong.  Avon,  and  Pliilliiis  ;  to 
Htrontr,  Frcenirin,  mikI  S.ilfni  ;  to  New  Viiiryard,  New  Porfl.iiid,  and  Kinj^Helil  ;  to 
hulustry  and  .Starks  ;  to  New  Sliamn,  Knnie,  IJcl^raile,  and  Au^'iista, 

New  Porllaml  and  Kinuliidd  (Franklin  House)  are  jiiclnn'scpu'  but  tldnly  iiopu- 
latcd  nit.  towns.  Near  Kinulicld  on  tin-  W.  is  tlic  .Mt.  Alnaliani  Uan;,'e,  D.liST  It. 
Id^di.  Tlie  natural  and  civil  histories  of  the  Maine  Imrder  towns  an*  monoto- 
nously alike.  They  were  nmstly  seltleil  hetween  \Ttt>  and  18(i(>,  exhibited  a  slow 
(_'rowtli  until  ls(io,  and  then  be;,'an  to  retni;j;rade.  The  los.se.s  occasioned  by  the 
war,  the  ^rcat  einij,'ration  westward,  and  the  sterility  of  the  New  En).;laiid  race 
!ire  the  reasons  f4^^'"t'rally  assi;;ned  fortius  decadence,  while  the  severity  of  the 
elinate,  the  destruction  ol'  the  forests,  antl  the  exhaustion  of  the  soil,  are  self- 
cvi<tent  natural  causes  of  decline.  Franklin  (.'oimty,  through  which  the  jiresi-nt 
route  is  laid,  had  nearly  •J.DiiO  more  iidiabitants  in  1S(>()  than  in  ISTD,  and  in  that 
s.'iinc  decade  the  State  lost  7,S7"J  in  ]>o]iulation.  This  has  been  Maine's  loss,  but 
the  I'nion's  ^rain,  and  natives  of  this  State  maybe  found  in  posts  of  trust  and 
iionor  In  nearly  every  la.'t,^e  American  eomnainity. 

Fariiiinfjton  to  the  RanfjeUy  Lakes. 

The  stage  leaves  on  arrival  of  the  IJoston  train,  and  follows  up  the 
Sandy  River  valley  with  IMt.  Blue  on  tin;  1.,  to  Strong  {Fanner  s  Ho- 
tel), whence  another  stage  runs  to  Freeman  and  Salem.  Mt.  Blue  is 
rounded  on  the  1.,  and  the  stage  j>a.sses  through  a  thinly  populated  country 
to  P/iillips  (Barden  House).  The  village  is  situated  in  the  valley,  within 
an  easy  distance  of  Mt.  Blue,  and  near  some  fine  trout-streams.  It  is 
18-20  :\l.  from  Farnington,  and  20-22  M.  from  the  lake.  Travellers 
usually  spend  the  night  here,  and  take  stage  in  th  •  morning,  passing 
through  the  town  of  Madrid  (Madrid  House).  The  Saddleback  Mt., 
■whose  chief  ])eak  is  nearly  4,000  ft.  high,  is  seen  on  the  r. ,  and  the  stage 
reaches  the  Indian  Rock  House  after  passing  through  a  dreary  wilderness 
Iteyond.  This  forest  tavern  is  on  a  favorite  old  Indian  camp-ground,  and 
is  near  the  curio\isly  bent  and  contorted  strata  of  Indian  Rock.  Lake 
Oiiuossoc,  or  Rangeley,  is  7  M.  long,  and  its  extreme  width  is  2  M.  It 
is  1,511  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded  by  hills,  prominent  among 
which  is  Saddleback  Mt.,  on  the  E.  Moosetocmaguntic  Lake  is  reached 
by  boat,  or  by  a  rude  forest-road  from  Indian  Rock,  and  is  10  ]M.  long  by 
2-4  M.  wide.  A  chain  of  large  lakes  extends  from  Rangeley  to  Umba- 
gog,  embracing  80  square  miles  of  water  surface,  and  abounding  with 
blue-back  trout  and  other  li.sh.  '^rravelliiig  in  this  remote  wilderness  is 
very  difficult,  and  good  gxiides  should  be  obtained. 

About  30  M.  directly  N.  W.  of  Indian  Roek,  on  a  line  which  crosses  the  Ken- 


bi 


V  i 


rOItTLAND  TO  TMK   ni»PER  KKNNKBEr 


lii'ule  42. 


293 


I 


Tirl«»go  nud  Cnpsi'j.tir  (fnm(tu.s  tioiit-Htn'arns),  iH  tliP  Iron  poHt  which  niark.s  tlin 
intrrsi'ctinj;  ("(ir'.crs  <»f  Mtitir.  New  M.uni'Hliirc,  and  Caiui'la.  A  line  of  iiiii  jmsU 
rUMHthiMn-n  N.  W.  for  over  80  M.  to  tlif  Roiimlary  nramli  nftlM-St.  Francis  llivi-r, 
marking  the  bounds  hftwpcn  thifl  luirt  of  '.i.»  U!  H.  and  Canada,  as  c<stablislic«l  in 
1S42. 

42.  Portland  to  the  Upper  Kennebec. 

By  rlthnr  of  tlie  Routes  4(5  or  47  to  Watrrville,  nml  tlioncc  by  a  branch  railroad 
in  16  M.  to  Skowlic;,'an.  Tliis  lino  passes  alnnj:  tlif;  r.  bank  of  the  Kennebec, 
with  tlie  stations,  Fairlield,  ^ionierset  Mills,  ;knd  i'i-.hnM  I'errv,  all  in  the  town  i>f 
Fairlield. 

The  now  Honiersct  Railroad  is  now  In  oporation  from  W.  Watorvillo  (Route  IG) 
to  Norridgewock,  a  distiince  of  10  M.,  and  is  being  pushed  on  to  8olon. 

Skowhegan  {Tumfr  ILmsc :  the  extensive  Skowheg.-in  Hotel  w.as 
bnnit  in  1872)  is  a  pleasant  village  in  a  prosperous  town  of  al»out  l/KV) 
inhabitants.  It  has  15  banks,  a  weekly  paj)er,  and  5  eliurches,  aii«l 
derives  its  inii)ortance,  from  numerous  nianufaetories  sil.;ated  on  a  largo 
water-power.  The  Kennebec  here  falls  28  ft.  perpendicularly  over  ragged 
ledges,  with  a  picturescpie  island  ending  at  the  crest  of  the  fall.  Tiio 
falls  are  best  vi(!wed  from  the  point  near  the  site  of  the  Skowhegan  Ho- 
tel, or  from  the  carriage-bridge  l)elow.  From  the  lattir  ))oiut  there  is  a 
pleasant  view  down  the  river,  the  most  prominent  olijcct  being  the  grace- 
ful railway-bridge,  while  the  stream  near  the  Turner  House  is  iiarrowe(l 
between  high,  rocky  banks  like  a  western  cailon.  It  is  said  that  the  envi- 
rons of  Skowhegan  furnish  fine  fishing  in  the  line  of  trout  and  pi(;kerel, 
while  the  rural  scenery  is  bright  and  pleasing,  llu;  favorite  drive  is  to 
Norridgewock  (5  M.)  by  a  tine  river-road,  returning  liy  a  river- road  on  the 
opposite  bank,  and  atronling  beautiful  views  of  the  l)lue  Kennebec. 

St;iges  nui  from  Skowhegan  to  Mnoseliead  Lake,  50  M.  (see  Route  4.'})  ;  to  Har- 
mony, 20  M.  ;  and  to  the  remote  forest-plantations  of  Flag-staff,  Oead  River,  and 
the  Forks. 

Norridgewock  (two  inns)  is  a  beautiful  rural  town,  situated  on  both 
si<les  of  the  Kennel»ec,  whicli  separates  its  two  villages.  At  the  N.  vil- 
lage, 5  M.  from  Skowhegan,  are  the  old  Somerset  County  buildings,  with 
a  broad  river-side  street  on  which  stanrl  some  rare  and  immense  old  trees. 
The  river  is  here  crossed  by  a  carriage-bridgo  and  a  line  railway-bridge. 
.0-6  M.  above  the  village,  and  near  the  conlluence  of  the  Kennebec  and 
the  Sandy  Rivers,  is  Old  Point. 

At  Old  Point  was  the  chief  town  of  the  Canibas  Indians,  a  powerful  tribe  of 
the  Abunaqui  nation.  As  early  as  lUlO  French  missionaries  from  Quebec  settle'', 
here,  and  in  lGit5  Sebastian  Rale,  a  French  .Jesuit,  came  from  Canad;i  and  be- 
came the  spiritual  and  (practically)  iiolitical  chief  of  the  tnl)e.  Rile  was  a 
man  of  high  culture,  aiid  had  been  (ireek  professor  in  the  College  of  Xisnies  (in 
S.  France).  He  prejiared  a  eomi>leto  dictioiniry  (now  at  Harvard  University)  of 
the  Abenaqui  language,  which  had  diminutives  ainl  augmentatives  like  tho 
Italian,  and  was  "  a  powerful  and  flexible  language,  —  the  Gret^k  of  America." 
"While  the  colonial  goveriunent  policy  was  generally  equitable  and  fair  towai-d  the 
Indians,  frequent  gross  injuries  and  cruelties  were  inflicted  on  them  by  irrespon- 
the  Ken-       t>ible  English  adventurers.     Hence  a  burning  sense  of  wrongs  endured  and  tho 


,nt3,  with  2 
,  is  situated 
I  has  also  a 
,1  is  located 
(ol),  and  the 
edge  of  the 
uty  buildings 

,1  rhiUips  ;  to 
I  Kingfleld  ;  to 
ta. 

ut  thinly  popu- 
ilange.  '^:^^^^'!  ft- 
ns  aie  nionoto- 
xliibited  a  slow 
rasioned  by  the 
w  Kngland  niee 
severity  of  the 
he  soil,  are  sell'- 
ich  the  pre:>ent 
STO,  and  in   ll»at 
laine's  loss,  but 
its  of  trust  and 


follows  npthe 
{Fanner  s  IIo- 

Mt.  Blue  is 
lulated  co\intry 
valley,  within 
streams.     It  is 
ike.     Travellers 
)rning,  passing 
jaddleback   Mt., 
. ,  and  the  stage 
•eary  wilderness 
nip-ground,  and 

n  Hock.     Lake 
1th  is  2M.     It 
iuent  among 

akc  is  readied 
IS  10  M.  long  by 
Uelev  to  Umba- 
labounding  with 

ite  wilderness  is 


•onii 


:•      ! 


294    Jlouie  4"2.     PORTLAND  Tu  TIIK  UPPEIl  KENNEBEC. 

loHH  of  their  niicfstral  IiiikIh  foni'd  tin-  Iiuli.iiis  into  ii  coiistaiit  Htatc  of  v/nrlikn 
fervor.  It  iti  h:w\  tliat  Father  \inU-  ha<l  a  Hiiperh  consecniti'd  banner  noatinj; 
bplore  his  chunh,  and  enilihi/oiieij  with  the  erosH  arul  a  1m)W  nnd  Hlicaf  ot  arrowH. 
Tliis  was  the  enisa<liii)s'  Han  liorne  often  ;in<l  again  over  tlie  Hniokinj'  ruins  of 
Mnine  and  N.  H.  vilia;<e.s.  In  170.j  Norriil^ewor-k  was  (lestroye  i  liy  270  eoh)nial 
Holdiers,  who  nianli'd  thitlier  swiltly  in  winter  I'V  the  aid  of  snnu -shoes.  At  tlio 
(do.se  (if  Queen  .Vniie's  War  (I'e'iee  of  I'treeht )  the  Haeiiein  of  lie  tril'c  went  to 
JJoHton,  to  (hniaiid  workmen  to  rehnihl  ttie  viUa^re-fdiundi,  and  ;  u  indemnity  for 
tlie  (h'.stnietion  of  tlie  lion.scs.  Ma.s.s.  |iromise(l  lidlh,  on  eonditioii  that  Norridge- 
woek  woiihl  accept  a  I'liritin  i>a.stor,  lnit  tlie  Saidiem  nd'nHe.i  tlie  condition.  Tlio 
Imlians  hoou  restored  thoir  homos,  and  snllered  another  jilunderitiK  raid  in  172'-', 
for  whi(di  the  cdast  of  Maine  paid  dearly.  Jn  1721  it  was  Keen  that  the  tril>e 
must  he  dri\('n  away  hehire  the  co.ist-towns  could  he  held  securely,  and  in  Au- 
gust of  that  year  all  ntrocioiis  attack  was  made  on  NorridKcwock  Iiy20s  colonial 
.soldiers  from  Fort  Kichniond.  So  carefully  was  the  advance,  guarded  by  llur- 
Tuon's  Hangers  and  a  coin]mny  of  Mohawks,  that  the  village  was  surrounded,  and 
the  llrst  intimation  of  the  jtresencc  of  the  colonials  was  conveyed  in  a  shower  of 
l)uilets  which  swejit  through  the  streets.  Some  of  the  Indians  escaped  thrfiugli 
the  thin  environing  lines,  but  all  who  remained  in  the  wigwams—  men,  women, 
ftnd  children  —  were  inassacrred. 

"Th(!  noise  and  tumult  gave  i 'ere  Rale  notice  of  tlie  danger  his  converts  wero 
in,  and  he  fearlessly  showetl  hiii.-.lf  to  tlu!  enemy,  hojiing  to  draw  all  iheir  atten- 
tion to  h  iiiself,  and  to  secure  tlie  safety  of  his  tlock  at  the  jM-ril  of  his  life.  He 
vs'as  not  disapi>ointed.  As  soon  as  lie  aiijicared,  the  English  .set  up  a  great  shout, 
which  was  iolloued  by  a  shower  of  shot,  when  he  fell  dead  near  to  the  cross  which 
lie  had  erecte(l  in  the  midst  of  the  village  Scvt  n  chiefs,  who  sheltered  his  liody 
with  their  own,  fell  around  him.  'IMius  diii  this  kind  shepherd  give  his  life  for  his 
Hheei>,  after  a  jiainful  mission  of  :.',  years."  (CiiAKi.r.voi.x.)  When  the  fragment 
of  the  tribe  re-entered  the  ruined  village,  they  foui.d  Hale's  bo(ly,  horribly  muti- 
lated, nt  the  foot  of  the  mission  (loss.  "After  his  converts  had  raised  up  and 
oft<  ntinies  kissed  the  precious  remains,  so  tenderly  and  so, justly  beloved  l)y  them, 
they  burie(l  him  in  the  .same  jilMce  where  he  had,  the  evening  before,  celebrate(i 
the  sacred  mysteries,  namely,  the  spot  where  the  altar  stood  before  the  (diurcli 
was  buint."  (IJhttiiir  (Icunali'  di'  A'«»/'(7/c  FrciiciA)  Bishop  I'eiiwick,  of  I)os- 
tor,  erected  a  granite  olxdisk  on  the  site  of  the  chun  h  in  IHH'.i.  After  lying  deso- 
late fur  liiilf  a  century,  Norridgewock  was  settled  by  the  whites  in  177^. 

Slarks  (Clifton  Housed  is  a  fiirming  town  10  M.  N,  W.  of  Norrid.qewock, 
with  ti'i-weekly  stprt'vs  to  Fariiiington,  13  M.  W.  (see  Route  41).  On  the 
main  stage-route  (tv.'  ;he  Forks)  yl  ».so7i,  is  N.  of  Stark.s,  and  is  a  considGr- 
ahle,  tliougli  failing  vilhxge,  with  3  small  hotels  and  ahout  1,700  inliahi- 
tants.  Kmhden  is  a  large  but  thinly  .settled  town  across  the  river  from 
Solo7i  (inn),  a  decadent  town  near  Carritunk  Falls,  where  the  Kennebec 
narrows  from  480  ft.  wide  to  40  ft.,  and  falls  about  20  ft.  The  stage- 
ronte  passes  thnnigh  Solon,  Bingham,  Moscow,  and  Carritunk,  to  The 
i'VA-s,  a  forest-village  of  about  150  inhabitants,  45  M.  N.  W.  of  Skow- 
hegan. 

Mooseliead  L.ike  is  25-30  M.  N.  E.  of  The  Forks,  up  the  Kennebec.  The  great 
Canada  road  (now  but  little  used)  runs  N.  W.  from  The  Forks  through  the  forest 
to  Taschereaii,  u  Canadian  Dunlei -village,  50-00  M.  dist,'< /it.  Thence  the  I'oud 
follows  the  valleys  of  the  Hiviercs  ilu  Loup  and  Chaudieiv,  through  Liniere,  Au- 
bert  Call  ion,  Vaudreuil,  St.  Joseph,  St.  Marie,  St.  Etienne,  and  Lauzon,  to  Quebec, 
more  than  180  M.  from  The  Forks. 

There  is  a  stage-i'oute  from  Skowhegan  to  Dead  River  and  Flag-staff  Plantations 
to  the  E.  and  N.  of  Mt.  Rigelow,  about  40  M.  N.  W.  of  Skowhegan. 

1  See  also  Whittier's  poem  "  Mogg  Megone." 


f »    » 


K(\ 


BOSTON  TO  MOOSEIIKAI)   LAKE.        Route  iS.     295 


(,f  -.YnrUVp 

i^r  niins  of 
i7()  colniiiil 
„.s.     At  tho 
.\\,^,  Willi   to 
idcmiiity  f'T 
,ia  Norii'lp" 
aitiot..    t'o 
liiitl  'n»  ^ ' h- 
l,ai  tlif  tin'« 
.    aii'l  in  -V*; 
>'»0H  colonial 
,a,.a  l.y  llar- 
,-rnu!>a<<l.  iin«) 
I,  a  Hliowov  of 
aiiiMl  tlir*.u«U 

converts  were 

all  ih.ir  utt.'n- 

f  his  li^-     ";^ 
,  a  umit  Khout . 

ltcrc<\  Ins  l.o<\> 
ve  his  life  for  liis 
cu  tin"  frat;nitM.t 
•  horribly  ">"<•: 
\  niisi-a  UP  HU.l 
beloved  hy  them, 
u.fore.  eelchra 
fore  the  (■innrh 
l.'euwi.k.  of  B"«- 
After  lying  deso- 
iii  177.5. 

te41).  On  the 
I  is  a  cousi^ler- 
^t  1,700  inlial'i- 

the  river  from 
le  the  Keunehcc 

ft  The  stage- 
.uviluuk,  to  TAe 
kr  w.  of  Bkow- 


Inebcc.  Thegreat 
Kvongh  the  forest 
I  Then(;e  the  load 
l,.„uuh  Liniere,  Au- 
|S.on.  to  Quebec, 

lag-staff  Plantations 
Bgan. 


< 


43.  Boston  or  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake. 

((f.)  /{//  S/i-owht'ffcn  (Houte  42),  wlieuco  daily  staj^cH  run  (in  summer)  to 
the  Lake.  Distance,  .OO  .M.  ;  fare  on  the  .st.".;?t',  -SH-.W.  Tliis  route  jiasses 
through  seven  sparsely  iiopulatetl  larniing  towns,  witii  tlieagi^regate  num- 
1  er  of  8,7*22  inlialiitants. 

(A.)  /j//  />''.'/'■/•  (s(;t^  Houte  46  or  47  to  Newport,  wlieneo  n  branch  rail 
way  runs  N.  in  1.')  M.  to  Dexter).  Dexter  {Mrrrhanf.s'  E.i'chnn'jt' ; 
I}vxli'r  IIiiHsr)  is  a  jirosperous  villajj;e  in  a  town  of  nearly  3,000  inhabi- 
tants, with  woollen  and  other  manufactories  on  tin;  water-power  given  by 
the  outlet  of  a  large;  hill-pond.  The  town  was  settled  in  1801,  and  has  a 
savings-bank,  a  weekly  i)aper,  and  5  churches.  The  stage  leaves  De.xter 
ill  the  morning,  and  passes  thro\igh  the  thinly  settled  farming  towns  of 
Sangerville,  Guilfurd,  Abbott,  Monson,  and  Shirley.  The  views  of  Mon- 
bon  Pond  from  Doughty's  Hill,  of  Mt.  Katahdin  in  the  N.  E.,  of  the  Lake 
from  the  heights  above  Greenville,  and  of  the  Mts.  of  Al)bottand  Monson, 
render  this  a  very  i>ictures(pie  route.  (Seats  on  the  outside  of  the  stage 
afford  the  best  view. ) 

Tickets  from  Rostoii  to  Mt.  Kiiion  and  return  (pnod  for  several  wocka)  by  this 
route,  niiiy  Im  bought  for  .■::!  l^oo,  at  l.'U  Wasliington  St.,  Boston.  Passengers 
leaving  the  Kastcrn  H.  II.  .station  in  Boston,  at  8  p.  M.,  or  the  Maine  Central  sta- 
tion in  I'ortlanil  at  12.:tO  a.  m.,  arrive  at  Mt.  Kineo  at  6  o'clock  next  evening  (tim« 
tnblc  of  1872). 

(r.)  Dy  Bauffor.  By  sleeping-car  on  tlie  night-express  to  Bangor, 
arriving  at  7  a.  m.  and  breakfasting,  then  leaving  for  Guilford  on  the 
Bangor  and  Piscataquis  R.  It.,  at  8  A.  M. 

{(i.)  By  steaTUcr  from  BoMmi  to  Bangor  (Route  48),  and  thence  as  in 
(c).  By  this  route  48  hrs.  an;  required  to  get  from  Boston  to  the  Lake. 
By  either  of  the  two  last-named  routes,  the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis  R.  R. 
is  taken  to  Guilford,  This  line  follows  Route  49  to  Oldtown,  where  it 
diverges  to  the  N.  W.  and  cro.sses  tho  towns  of  Alton,  Lagrange,  Orneville, 
and  Milo,  to  .S'.  Sehec.  Stages  run  thence  (0  M.  ;  50  c. )  to  Sebec,  at  the  foot 
of  Sebec  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  12  I^L  long.  The  steamer  "  Rip- 
pling Wave  "  runs  daily  down  to  the  Lake  House,  a  summer-hotel  on  a 
plateau  near  Granite  Mt.,  in  Bowerbank  (leaving  Sebec  at  7.15  A.  M.,  and 
the  Lake  House  at  4  p.  M.  ;  fare,  50  c.).  There  is  good  fishing  from 
birch  canoes  and  skiffs  out  on  the  lake,  and  picturesque  mt.  scenery  on 
the  shores.     The  Ebeme  Mts.  are  N.  of  Sebec . 

7  M.  beyond  S.  Sebec  is  the  station,  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  between  two 
villages  on  the  Piscataquis  River.  Dover  (good  inn)  has  nearly  2,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  the  shire-town  of  the  forest  County  of  Piscataquis,  which, 
with  3,780  .square  miles  of  territory,  has  but  14,397  inhabitants.  Fox- 
croft (N.  of  the  track)  has  1,200  inhabitants,  and  a  daily  .stage  runs  thence 
to  Stc'lnian's  Landing  (5  M.),  connecting  with  th'.>  Sebec  Lake  steamer. 


¥ 


t 


■  9         ,"  »i 


! 


i 


ii    > 


1. 
J. 


LAKE. 

The  treiin  passes  on  8  M.  farther,  to  Guilford  {Turner  House)  61  M. 
from  Bangor.  The  stage-route  to  Mooseliead  Lake  leads  thence  for  23  M. 
over  the  same  road  as  that  from  Dexter. 

Mooseliead  Lake. 

Greenville  (Ijilr,  llnnnc  ;  Krehth  Honsf)  is  a  small  farming,'  village  on  tlieS.  shore, 
and  nl)out  5  M.  W.  of  Wilsmi  I'oihI  wliicli  is  famed  fiT  its  trout.  Here  maybe 
Been  many  lumlu'rmcii,—  Amciicaiis,  Indians,  and  Caiiadia'i  and  Afadian  Fivnrdi- 
n<cn, —  rude  and  stalwart  foresters.  "Maine  has  two  (lasses  of  warriors  anmng 
its  sons,— lighters  of  forest  anil  fighters  of  seas.  Braves  nuist  join  one  or  the 
other  army.     The  two  are  t  lose  allies." 

Mooseliead  Lake  is  35  ]\L  long,  from  4  to  12  l^L  wide,  and  contains  220 
square  miles.  It  is  1,023  ft.  al)Ove  the  sea,  to  which  its  waters  pass  by 
the  Kennebec  River.  The  .shores  are  monotonous  and  uncultivated,  save 
where  Mt.  Kineo  runs  out  into  the  lake,  tliougli  distant  mts.  on  either 
side  give  variety  to  the  vie\v.  Hxcept  Greenville,  at  the  S.  end,  there  are 
no  towns,  plantations,  or  permanent  settlements  on  these  lonely  shores. 
Tlie  fishing  (trout,  &c. )  in  these  waters  and  in  tlie  neighborii.'g  .streams  is 
the  grand  attraction,  though  the  moose-hunting  has  wellnigh  pas.sed 
away.  In  May,  June,  and  early  July  the  black  lly  is  an  unendurable 
annoyance,  and  city  men  .should  avoid  the  forest  in  that  sea.son. 

Steamers  leave  Greenville  daily  for  Mt.  Kineo.  Passing  out  of  the  long, 
deep  cov€  in  which  the  village  is  situated,  the  Stpiaw  Mt.  is  seen  on  the 
1.  and  the  steamer  runs  N.  between  Deer  Island  on  the  1.  and  Sugar  Island 
on  the  r.  E.  of  the  latter  is  Lilly  Cove,  strewn  witli  romantic  islets  and 
surrounded  by  mts.  Beyond  Sugar  Island  the  great  bay  is  seen  to  the  S. 
W.,  through  Avhich  the  Kennebec  Hows  outward  toward  the  sea,  while 
Spencer  Bay  opens  to  the  N.  E.,  with  Spencer  Mt.  (4,000  ft.  high)  at  its 
head.  Katahdin  may  be  seen  to  the  N.  E.  on  a  clear  day.  The  bold 
bluffs  of  Kineo  are  now  seen  ahead,  and  the  steamer  stops  near  its  base 
and  close  by  the  hotel.  The  Kruen  House  is  situated  here  (on  a  peninsula 
which  runs  from  the  E.  shore  to  within  1  M.  of  the  W.  shore),  and  is  v 
■vvell-kept  house,  much  fre(iuented  by  Bostonians,  and  famed  for  its  trout. 
The  Blue  Ridge  lies  W.  of  Kineo,  and  Brassua  Lake,  about  6  M.  distailt 
in  that  direction,  is  much  visited  by  fi.shing-parties. 

Mt.  Kineo  is  very  near  the  liotel,  and  is  0  -700  ft.  above  the  lake,  with 
a  vast,  sheer  prei;ipice  of  purph;  Hint  running  down  to  the  water,  and  for 
over  1,000  ft.  below.  The  mt.  is  (piickly  ascended  (with  a  guide),  and 
reveals  a  fine  view  of  the  Lake,  with  Squaw  Mt.  on  the  S. ,  the  Bine  Ridge  on 
the  W.,  the  Spencer  and  Lilly  Cove  Mts.  on  the  S.  E.,  and  Katahdin  on  the 
N.  E.    The  sandy  beaches  near  the  slopes  of  the  mt.  alTo:  d  ^ileasant  rambles. 

At  16  - 18  M.  N.  of  Mt.  Kineo,  over  the  desolate-shored  North  Bay,  the  end  of  the 
Lake  is  reached,  and  a  well-travell(>d  jKirtage  of  2  M.  leads  aewss  to  the  Penobscot 
River.  This  river  may  be  fiesrendeu  in  a  birch-canoe  weU  guided  (]iassing  several 
rapids)  to  Chesuncook  Lake,  20-30  M.  N.  E.  Plain  forest-fare  and  rude  forest- 
life  must  be  encountered  here.    Chesuncook  is  about  20  M.  long  and  1  -3  M.  wide. 


rORTLAND  TO  ROCKLAND.         lioulc  44.     21)7 


ise)  61  M. 
for  23  M. 


HioS.  shore, 
Icrc  may  be 
liiUi  Fn'iK'b- 
viors  among 
one  or  the 


and  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  large  Lakes,  Caut'omgninuc  and  Cauconigomosis,  atid  the 
Allagash  chain  of  lakes,  tiie  sDiithcniniost  and  lar^'t-st  of  whirli  is  ApmogtMiaj^'ti- 
niook.  Beyond  Chesuncook  (H.  E.)  Uipoj^'einis  F.akc  is  travciscd,  tlit-n  eMsucs  a  ',\ 
M.  portat,'(i,  ind  tlien  tho  river  is  deseeiuled  for  many  leagues  lu  IViiiadiuncook 
Lake,  with  Mt.  Katahdin  boldly  prominent  on  the  N.  K.  and  N.  This  mt.  is  some- 
times aspended  with  the  eanoo-guidcs,  from  tlicrivcr,  -a  long  anci  arduous 
journey.  From  IVmadu'nrook  the '"idrnim,' river  (more  ^irojierly  the  W.  liraneh 
of  the  Penobscot)  may  be  tollowed  to  Mattawamkeag  or  Oldtown. 

Good  guides,  a  sui)i)ly  of  ]>rovisions,  ;ind  strong  clotliing  are  requisite  fortius 
tour,  which  rccjuires  7 -JO  days,  fnnu  (ireeiiville  to  Oldtown.  (Sec  a  vigorou.s 
account  of  this  route  ])y  Theodore  Winthrop,  "  Life  in  the  Upeu  Air,"  Chaps. 
VL-XV,  ;  also  Thoreau's  "Maimj  Woods.") 


outains  220 
Brs  pass  by 
ivated,  save 
s.  on  either 
id,  there  are 
nely  shores. 
^  streams  is 
nigli  passed 
unendurable 

3n. 

t  of  the  long, 
seen  on  the 
Sugar  Island 
ic  islets  and 
eeu  to  the  S. 
le  sea,  while 

high)  at  its 
■.     The  bold 
near  its  base 
u  a  peninsula 
)re),  and  is  r 

for  its  trout. 

6  M.  distaitt 

the  lake,  with 

/ater,  and  for 

la  guide),  antl 

iBluerddgeou 

itahdin  on  the 

isant  rambles. 

the  end  of  the 
L'the  Penobscot, 
(passing  several 
vl  rudft  forest- 
ed 1  -  3  M.  wide, 


44.  Portland  to  Rockland. 

By  the  Maine  Central  and  Knox  and  Lincoln  Railways,  in  96  M.  1  >'■ 
train  leaves  the  Portlaml  an<l  Kennebec  station  in  Portland  and  j)a.sses 
over  Route  47  to  Bnmswick,  Stages  run  thence  to  Harpswell  and  Orr's 
Island.  A  few  miles  beyond  Brunswick,  the  train  reaches  Bath  (*  Srigada- 
hoc  House  :  Bath  Hotel),  a  decadent  old  maritime  city  situated  on  the 
Kennebec  River,  12  M.  from  the  sea.  Bath  has  7,380  inhabitants,  with  a 
valuation  of  ,$G, -400,000,  7  banks,  and  a  daily  i)aper.  It  was  foiincrly 
the  fourth  city  in  the  republic  in  the  shipbuilding  busines.s,  and  grew  in 
wealth  and  prosperity  until  the  decline  of  American  commerce.  This 
branch  of  industry  wa.s  foun<lcd  hen^  in  17(12,  and  was  favored  by  the  fa- 
cility with  which  tiir^  best  ship  timber  was  lloateddown  the  Keimebec  from 
the  northern  forests,  in  1S53  and  1854  the  tonnage  built  here  amounted 
to  107,854.  The  city  has  a  fine  harbor,  rarely  emoarrassed  with  ice,  and 
deep  enough  fo.  the  largest  ships.  The  streets  are  irregular  in  tlieir 
contour,  and  the  settled  district  extends  for  over  3  M.  along  the  W.  bank 
of  the  river,  l)eirg  only  about  ,^  M.  wide.  The  river  at  this  point  is  over 
^  M.  in  width,  and  is  rapid  and  deep.  There  is  a  ne^n  Government 
building  here,  also  tlie  Sagadahoc  County  buildings. 

The  site  of  Bath  was  first  visited  by  Capt.  Weymouth  in  1G05.  It  was  bought 
from  Robin  Hood,  an  Indian  chief,  by  Kev.  Robert  (iutch,  of  Salem,  who  lived 
here  from  16(50  to  1G7!'.  Tiie  growth  of  tlie  settlement  was  very  slow  imtil  tin; 
close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  when  an  act  iv»' lumber  and  shipping  trade  sprang 
up,  which  was  V)ut  momentarily  inj  ueii  by  the  Knibargu  and  the  War  of  ISl-J. 
From  causes  which  are  natiunal  rather  than  local,  IJatli's  Icailing  industry  lias 
been  checked,  and  the  city  is  going  (piietly  down  liill  with  the  other  small  mari- 
time cities  of  Xow  Kiigiand. 

Stages  run  <laily  to  Arrowsic  and  Georgetown.  Steamers  nui  to  Phipsburg, 
Georgetown,  Arrowsic,  IJoothliay,  PeniiKpiid,  ami  Waiiloboro. 

The  long  peninsulas  ami  narntw  pan.Ucl  islands  wliich  run  into  the  sail  water 
beluw  liath  aie  very  i'ltere.sting  in  a  histori;al  pnint  of  view.  ArvowAic  is  an 
island  town  with  about  'J')U  inhabitants,  011  •_'(), 000  acres  of  land,  nnich  of  which  iti 
salt-marsh.  This  island  was  settled  and  fortiiied  in  l(i<'JI,  and  its  settlement  was 
destroyed  by  an  Indian  raid  in  17-'"!.  In  another  midnight  aitucK.  .W  houses  were 
l)unit,  and  35  persons  were  kiile<l  and  captured  in  tiie  tort,  wiiicii  was  stormed  in 
the  darkness.  Months  after,  a  detachment  of  soldiers  landed  to  bury  tiie  dead, 
liut  were  ambushed  and  rudely  handled.  (Irorgetnwn  is  an  island  town  below 
Arrowsic,  with  similar  annals  of  early  adveiiture.  Phituhnrij  is  a  long  jtcuinsula, 
stretching  for  about  I'i  M.  from  Bath  to  Bald  Head  Cape,  boiuidfd  on  the  W.  by 

1:5* 


298    Route  44- 


WOOLWICH. 


I         ! 


M<i 


Qiiohog  Bay,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  widenings  of  the  Xennebee.  The  Huguenot  chief, 
\)v.  Mdiits,  i)lant<;d  the  cruss  here  in  1004,  and  in  1(107  >Sir  George  I'ophani  and 
Uak-igli  (iilljert  (ne])hfw  of  .Sir  Waiter  Raleigh)  came  liere  witii  2  ships  and  100 
men.  "They  sayit'd  uji  into  the  river  neere  40  leagues,  and  found  yt  to  be  a  very 
gallant  river,  very  decjio,"  and  tlicn  n-tunifd  to  this  peninsula,  where  they  landed 
and  ccioljratod  tlic  service  of  tlic  lOpiscopal  Clmrcli,  assembled  around  their  chap- 
Jain.  Tills  is  said  to  liavi-  been  the  tirst  Christian  service  in  New  Kngl-^nd.  A 
line  of  caliins  and  a  clnirch  were  built,  and  Kort  St.  (Jeorge  was  raised  for  tlieir 
protection.  After  a  (piarrel  between  the  colonists  and  Indians,  the  latter  got 
pos.session  of  the  fort,  and  iijundered  it ;  hut  having  scattered  anuuid  several  bar- 
rels of  j)owder  (heing  ignorant  of  its  (lualitifs),  it  caughl  (ire  and  exjilodeil,  de- 
stroying the  fort  and  tlie  Indians.  The  remaining  aliorigiiies,  interiireting  the 
fatal  exjilosion  as  a  I)i\  ine  jiunisliincnt,  hastened  to  be  reconciled  with  the  colo- 
Tusts,  whom  they  sujiplied  with  food  all  winter.  The  intense  cold  of  the  winter 
of  1G07-8,  the  destruction  of  their  stores,  the  dubious  favor  of  the  Indians,  and 
tlie  death  of  I'opham  and  other  leailers  eauseil  thi'  colony  to  break  up  in  the 
sjtring  au<l  return  to  ICngland,  having  "found  nothing  but  extreme  extremity." 
1'he  i>eninsula  was  resettled  in  17K)  by  tlie  Tcjepscot  proprietors,  who  erected 
here  a  stone  foi-t  100  ft.  s(|uare,  made  houses  and  I'oads,  and  establislied  a  line  of 
eonminnieation  by  sea  with  Uoston.  A  few  years  later  it  was  destroyed  liy  a  sud- 
den Indian  attack,  and  the  fort  was  demolished.  The  jicninsula  was  again  settled 
in  17;?7.  and  in  1814  was  incorporated,  and  named  in  honor  of  Sir  William  riii[)s. 
The  town  has  1,.'J-I4  inhabitants,  largely  engaged  in  fishing  ami  shipbuilding,  and 
its  shores  are  rugged  and  irregular.  Segiiin  Islanil  lies  (df  shore  to  the  S.  There 
are  one  or  two  small  summer  lioarding-houses  on  the  peninsida. 

The  ;id  Maine  Regiment,  in  the  Secession  War,  was  raised  in  the  Kennebec 
Valley,  between  Plsiiisbiirg  and  SUowhegaii.  It  was  one  of  the  bravest  regiments 
in  tli<^  army,  was  cngageil  in  nearly  all  the  great  Virginian  battles,  and  at  Gettys- 
burg alone  lost  113  men.     Koward  was  its  lirst  colonel. 


At  Batli  llio  tliroTigli  cars  for  Rockland  are  taken  across  the  Kennebec 
River  on  a  large  steam  ferry-boat,  and  run  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Knox 
and  Lincoln  Railroad  at  Woi>lin'rh,  on  the  farther  shore.  This  town  was 
settled  in  lGo8  on  tlie  Indian  doi.iain  of  Ncquasset,  and  was  depopulated 
by  an  attack  in  l(J7t).  50  years  later  it  was  resettled,  and  in  1759  was  in- 
corpoi'ated  as  Woolwich,  so  named  from  a  resemblance  of  the  Kemiebec 
River  at  this  point  to  the  English  Thames  at  Woolwich. 

William  Pliips  was  born  at  Wotdwich  in  1G51,  and  was  a  shejiherd  on  its  rocky 
hills.  Learning  how  to  read  and  wi'ite,  and  then  actpiiring  the  art  of  .ship-car- 
l>entering,  he  rose  in  consideration  and  influence.  In  1084  he  sailed  from  Lomlon 
in  a  war  vessel,  to  att  nipt  the  reco\try  of  the  gidd  from  a  sunken  Si>anish  treas- 
iire-shii>  near  the  Jiahanias.  Tlie  (piest  was  Tinsuccessful,  V>ut  in  1087  he  suc- 
ceeded in  recovering  froiu  tin;  wreck  y  1,,''>(IO,U()0  in  jewels  and  bars  of  gold  aixl 
silver.  He  was  knighted  by  the  king,  and  received  !?  80,000  of  the  treasure.  He 
commaniled  the  exi)edition  which  took  Port  Royal  from  the  French,  and  from  lOKJ 
to  lO'.ti  h(!  was  Gov.  of  Mass.  In  1004  he  died  suddenly  at  London,  where  he  had 
gone  to  render  an  account  of  his  government.  His  activity,  l.'ravery,  and  enter- 
prise enabled  him  to  rise  from  the  tasks  of  an  unlettered  shepherd  on  the  Wool- 
wich liills  to  the  governtrship  of  the  chief  British  province  in  America. 

Beyond  Woolwich  the  train  i)asscs  the  country  stations  of  Nequasset 
and  Montsweag,  and  then  stops  at  Wincas^ct  (Hilton  Housed,  a  maritime 
town  on  the  Sheepscot  River,  12  M.  from  the  .sea.  It  has  1,978  inhaln- 
tants,  ii  bankS)  and  a  weekly  iia[»er  (tlie  "  Seaside  Oracle  ").  The  widen- 
ings of  the  river  opposite  Wiscasset  afford  a  broa<l  and  cajiacious  harbor, 
with  12  -  20  fathoms  of  water,  and  but  rarely  troubled  v/ith  ice.     It  was 


PEMAQUID. 


noule  44.     299 


jliiiui  and 
s  and  100 
I  be  a  very 
[\cy  landtid  A 

Axtiir  cliap-  f 

igl,'>nd.     A 
I  for  tbcir 
lattiT  got 
ievcvid  b;vr- 

l)l0dl'«l,      dt-  ; 

j.irting  the  .  i 

h  the  colo-  I 

the  wint.n- 
ndians,  an<l 
V  ui>  in  tho 
cxtn'niity. 
who  ertMtfd 
lotl  a  lini'  of 
„,\  l,y  a  svid- 
again  scttlfd 
illiani  riiips. 
(MvUdini;,  ^"^ 
:he9.    There 

the  Kennebec 
•est  regiments 
ind  at  Gettys- 


Ihe  Kennebec 
f  the  Knox 
lis  tnwn  was 
depopulated 
1739  was  in- 
ve  Kennebec 

•a  on  its  rocky 
n-t  of  sbiivcar- 
.(I  from  l^ondon 
ripaiusb  tveas- 
,n  1C87  iio  suc- 
u-s  of  gold  and 
■  troasnre.    !»•' 
>,  and  from  W-'- 
1   whirebebad 
,;,i.y.  and  enter- 
■a  on  tlic  Soul- 
ier ica. 
of  Nequasset 
.e\  a  maritime 
1,978  inhabi- 
I).     The  wideu- 
lacious  harbor, 
\h  ice.     It  was 


« 


once  talked  of  for  a  U.  S.  naval  station.  This  town  was  laid  under  con- 
tribution by  the  Britisli  sioop-of-war  "  Rainbow,"  during  the  Revolution. 
Its  palmiest  days  wore  between  1780  and  1806,  when  the  maritime  trade 
was  very  extensive,  and  many  leagues  of  back  country  were  dependent  on 
it  for  supplies.  Tliis  pros])erity  was  ruined  by  the  ?]mharpo  and  tlie  War 
of  1812,  and  Wiscasstit  is  now  only  a  pleasant  village,  fading  slowly  from 
its  pictures(pie  hills. 

Daily  stages  run  froni  Wiseasset  to  liimthhaii  (tw<>  inns),  0  M.  S.,  another  of  the 
ancicii't  luMiinsidar  towns.  It  was  visittd  by  Wcyinouth  in  UU)'>  ;  setth'd  in  \('>'M) ; 
di'stroyi'd  in  KJ.SS  ;  and  jL'sctth'il  in  17-io.  Its  liiu'  harbor  was  (■l\o.st'n  for  a  naval 
station  by  the  IJritisli  governiia-nt  about  1770,  but  the  outbreak  of  the  Ilcvolu- 
tioUciry  War  jireventt-d  national  worlds  iVoni  being  constructed.  Tiie  town  has 
8,200  inhabitants,  who  are  mostly  engaged  in  the  tisheries,  the  coasting  trade,  and 
in  sliipbuililing.  The  village  is  very  attractive,  with  islanils  in  front  guarding 
the  nobh'  harbor,  in  w]ii(di,  during  long  storms,  4-.'j0i)  sail  of  lishing  vessels 
sometimes  take  refuge.  Many  summer  visitors  rest  at  Hoothbay,  whii  h  is  reachetl 
also  by  steamer  from  Hatli.  The  stcimer  touches,  ni  route,  at  Southport  (Rose- 
wood Cottage),  an  insular  town  inhabited  by  lisluM-men.  The  S.  cxtnMuity  of 
this  island  is  Cape  Newagi'u,  wheme  the  Damariscove  Islands  are  seen  on  th(!  E. 
Wcstport  is  another  insidar  town,  11  M.  long,  to  the  W.  of  Boothijay,  and  inhab- 
ited by  fishermen. 

Beyond  Wiscasset  the  train  passes  to  the  .station,  XewcasUr  and  f>am- 

an'scnita.     A  considerable  settlement   was  made  at   New(;astle  early  iu 

the  17th  century,  as  is  evinced  by  tlie  traces  still  seen.     It  was   probably 

destroyed  by  the  French,  and  its  memory  has  faded  from  history.     Many 

years  after  this  colony  fell,  another  was  estaldished,  which  was  destroyed 

in  King  Philip'.s  War.     A  tlurd  settlement  or  the  same  site  was  destroyed 

in  lt)88,  and  the  land  lay  desolate  for  30  yer.rs.     The  town  now  contains 

1,729  inhabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  manufacturing.     Damarircotta  (Elm 

/louse  ;  Jfaivc  Hotel)  was  settled  in  K540,  and  was  a  frontier  post  of  the 

old  Pemaquid  Patent.     It  Avas  often  assailed  by  the  Indians,  and  twice  or 

thrice  was  abandon^id.     It  v/as  named  for  Damarinc,  Sachem  of  Saga(la- 

hoc  (cn'ied  Robin  Hood  by  the  Knglisli),  and  now  is  generally  spoken  of, 

in  the  country-sid',  as  "  Scottie."     It  has  1,334  inhabitants,  an<l  ship- 

liuilding  is  the  chiei  hidustry.     The  Damariscotta  River  separates  it  from 

Nev  castle. 

Stagi  run  to  Alna,  Pittston,  and  Gardiner  ;  to  Jetferson  and  Augusta  ;  to  Bris- 
tol and  n).T(|uid.  Bristnl  is  a  territorially  large  town,  embracing  nearly  all  the 
lieninsul  between  the  Damariscotta  Hiver  ami  Muscougus  Bay.  It  has  about 
3,000  inha   itants,  and  at  the  village  of  Round  Pond  are  extensive  oil-works. 

Pemaquid. 

On  and  near  t  rocky  promontory  in  the  extreme  S.  of  Bristol  is  the  .site  of  the 
ancient  colony  of  I'emaqiiid,  than  which  no  locality  in  Xew  Kngland  has  more  of 
historic  charm.  The  Maine  Historical  8o(ncty  has  e-xplored  these  deserted  shores, 
and  the  site  and  ruins  of  Fort  Frederick  have  been  secured  for  a  monument  to  be 
erected  in  honor  of  tlie  pioneers. 

Capt.  Weymouth  visited  Pema<iuid  in  1005,  ami  kidnapped  several  Indians.  10 
years  later  a  furious  war  l)rok('  out  between  the  Tarratiiu'  Indians  ami  the  Bashaba 
or  Chief  of  tlie  Western  Maine  iribes.     The  Bashabi  .iml  his  nmilv  and  e<Mincil- 


300.    Route  U. 


WALDOBORO. 


•r  ; 


f.   i 


I 


1 


3    i 


lors  were  put  to  death  by  a  daring  inroad  of  tlic  Tarratines,  but  tlie  tribes  liad 
bofomc  ^rreatly  reduced  ))y  the  war  and  an  ensuiuK  jit'stilcnce.  The  Wawcn.n'ks 
(fear-naughts)  occupied  the  jiciiinsulas  about  I'cnuKiiiid,  itut  were  so  reduced  in 
strengtli  as  to  V)e  luiable  to  prevent  eoloni/.ition.  In  Ki.'iO  it  is  said  tiiat  a  fort 
was  erected  here,  and  in  1C31  tlie  Pemaquid  Patent  was  granted  to  two  menliants 
of  Bristol.  In  1632  the  jiiratc  Dixcy  Bull  entered  the  liarbor,  ]iltuidered  tlie 
village,  and  earried  away  the  vessels.  Massacliusetts  sent  an  armed  shiji  against 
biin,  but  he  was  taken  by  a  royal  cruiser,  and  cx<'cutcd  (probably)  at  London  in 
1GH5.  In  1648  all  this  region  was  f(U-ined  into  a  "  Ducal  State,"  ami  made  an  aji- 
]ianage  of  James,  I)uk<'  of  York  (aftci  w.'irds  Kint^  James  II.).  No  religious  servic(> 
but  the  Anglican  was  allowed.  In  1(;H5,  the  K!  giui  brig  "  .\ngel  (inbriel  "  was 
wreek(!d  here,  and  in  1071  Sir  Hdnunid  Andros  built  Fort  Charles,  brought  in 
many  Dutch  innnigraiits,  and  nameil  tin;  place  Jamestown.  It  had  then  three 
long,  i)aved  streets,  with  several  cross-streets,  jind  was  called  "  the  metro]iolis  of 
N(^w  England."  The  Imliaus  remained  trancpiil  during  King  l*hili]>'s  War,  until 
they  had  siitl'cred  grave  attronts  from  tlic  colonists,  when  tiicy  swcjit  ilown  on 
Pemaquid  and  utterly  destroyed  it.  Many  of  tlie  iieoiilo  es'ape(i  in  boats  to  iMon- 
hegan,  an  island  far  out  in  the  sea.  In  iOTS  the  jtlace  was  reoecujiied,  and  in 
KWO  it  was  again  destroyed  by  the  Tarratines,  tlie  "  cajitains  of  the  garrison 
having  been  killeil.  The  imint  was  reoccupied  by  S.')()  Mass.  troojis,  and  in  Ki'.iJ 
Sir  William  IMiips  (U'ected  a  stone  fort  here,  mounting  IS  guns,  and  called  the 
strongest  on  the  continent.  This  was  named  Fort  Willi.im  Henry,  and  soon 
repulsed  an  attack  by  2  French  :5()-gun  frigates.  In  Kl'.i;',  i:i  Tarratine  and  Penob- 
scot chiefs  submitted  at  the  settlenu'ut,  and  the  village  grew  rapidly.  In  biW 
Iberville  (having  defeated  an  English  fleet  on  the  coast)  attiicked  the  place  with  a 
fleet  bearing  several  hundred  French  regulars,  some  .Mic-Mne  Indi;ins,  and  2C0 
Tarratines  under  Baron  de  Castine.  After  Iximba riling  Fort  William  Henry  from 
batteries  on  the  ojtposite  jioint  and  from  the  fleet,  a  breach  was  made  and  the 
fort  was  taken.  The  settlement  was  jdundered  and  ruined,  and  the  surviving 
inhabitants  were  led  into  caidivity.  It  was  soon  settled  again,  and  when  Mass. 
took  possession  of  Maine  its  jteople  beggeil  that  lVma(iuid  might  "  remain  the 
nietn  ]  )litau  of  these  ])arts,  because  it  ever  havt^  been  .so  before  Bo.ston  was 
settled."  In  17'24  the  ruined  fort  was  somewhat  repaired  to  defend  the  people  in 
Lovewell's  War,  and  in  17'M)  it  was  rebuilt  under  the  name  of  Fort  Frederick,  by 
Col.  Dunbar,  surveyor  of  the  King's  woods  in  America.  This  ofticer  had  a  fine 
mansion  here,  and  laid  out  a  new  city,  but  was  soon  relii'ved  on  account  of  his 
arl)itrary  acts,  and  was  ma(h>  (Jov.  of  St.  Helena.  Fort  Frederick  was  attacked  in 
1745,  and  in  1747  it  was  assaulted  by  a  French  force,  which  was  rejiulsed  with 
heavy  loss.  The  fort  was  destroyed  by  the  ]u>oiple  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  lest 
it  shoidd  become  a  British  post.  In  ISLS  a  sharp  naval  battle  occurred  off  Pema- 
quid Point,  when  the  American  brig  "  Enterjirise  "  was  attacked  by  the  British 
brig  "Boxer."  After  a  c(U)flict  of  48  minutes  the  "Boxer"  surrendered,  having 
sufl'ered  severe  losses.  In  1814  the  place  was  attacked  by  275  men  in  boats  from 
the  frigate  "  Maidstone,"  who  were  rejudseil  with  such  severe  loss  that  the 
captain  of  the  frigate  was  discharged  from  the  British  navy. 

Ancient  fortifications,  streets,  cellars,  wharves,  and  cemeteries  are  found  all 
over  the  Point,  and  many  remarkable  antiquities  may  be  shown  by  the  farmers 
near  the  now  deserted  jxiint. 

"  Tho  rpstloss  sea  resounds  along  the  shore. 

The  lipht  land-breeze  flows  oi'twmd  with  a  sigh, 
And  each  to  each  seems  chantinp  evermore 
A  monrnful  memory  of  the  days  pone  by. 
Here,  wliere  they  lived,  all  holy  thoiiL'ht.s  revive, 

Of  patient  strivinc  and  of  faith  held  fast ; 
Hero,  where  they  died,  their  buried  records  live. 
Silent  they  speak  from  out  the  shadowy  past." 

Pemaquid;  a  ballad. 

After  leaving  Damariscotta  the  line  i)asses  through  Xohlehoroiigh  (3 
stations)  to.  Widdohoro  (Medomaek  House),  which  was  settled  by  1,500 
Germans  in  1753-  i.  Their  descendants  still  remain  in  the  town,  which 
has  over  4,000  inhabitants.     Station,  Warren,  a  shipbuilding  town,  which 


III 

IIK 

an 
;.'r; 

ill' 


it  'I 


ROCKLAND. 


Route  44.    301 


(,,\uccil  in 
liat  a  fort 

Ail.  av^ainst 
Loinlou  in 
[itlc  an  ap- 
,ms  s<Mvi«^n 
ihrit'l"  was 
brou^^ht  m 
then  thiTO 
ptropolis  of 
^War,  iiiitil 
nt  down  «>n 
Kits  to  Mon- 
pic<l,  an<l  m 
111,,   garriscn 
an.l  in  KV.'J 
il  calic'l  till" 
•y    and  soon 
(.  'and  renoi.- 
Uy.     In    l'>-''> 
.  place  vNitl'  •' 
lians,  and  200 
1  Henry  Irom 
nade  and  tlie. 
the  snrvivnig 
,1  when  Mass. 
"remain  the 
;;>  Bostcni  was 
tlic  people  ni 
Frederiek,  »>' 
t.pv  had  a  line 
iccount  of  his 
-as  attacl^etV]" 
repulsed  With 
„nrv  War.  lest 
iried  olV  I't'io'V 
,Ythe  British 
.iored,  havm;^ 
in  V)oats  from 
l„ss  that  the 

^Pe  found  all 
by  the  fanners 


« 


i 


tuid :  a 


ballad. 


hbleboroiigh  (3 
Itled  by  1,500 
town,  which 
icr  town,  which 


was  settled  by  Sooteh- Irish  in  1736.  Station  Thomaston  (Knux  Jluuse  ; 
(jt'orgcs  House),  situated  on  a  deep  narrow  harbor,  and  containing  the 
Maine  State  Prison.  The  prison  was  established  in  1824,  and  up  to  1872, 
1,100  conviets  had  served  their  time  out,  390  had  been  pardoned,  18  had 
escaped,  and  in  that  year  128  convicts  remained  within  its  walls. 

In  ITiiO  a  fort  was  Imilt  Iwie  (near  tiie  present  railway-station),  anil  fjarrisoned 
nnd  armed  with  cannon  by  Mass.  It  was  tnriously  att.icUfd  hy  tin-  'I'arratine  In- 
dians in  ll'l'l,  and,  an  assanlt  led  by  l-'rindi  monks  having,'  been  disastrously  re- 
]pu1s(!i1,  a  mine  was  du;,'.  This  work  wa->  so  unscientiliially  dune  that  it  fell  in 
on  tlie  hesiej^'crs,  wlio  retired  in  confnsidr;.  In  midwinter  of  172:t  it  was  af^aiu 
bi'lea^'uered  vainly  for  .'iO  days,  and  in  1724  it  was  attacked  l>y  a  fleet  tif  '.'•_'  vessels 
(captured  tisliermen).  A  sliarii  naval  skirmish  was  fou^dit  witli  coloTdal  relief- 
ships,  whiidi  were  forced  to  retire,  ^.'reatly  damaged  liy  tlie  Indian  artillery.  Hut 
ihe  fort  still  hehl  .>ut  and  repulsed  every  attiick,  and  stuiid  until  the  Itevoliition, 
when  it  was  d' luolished  by  tlu;  Hritish.  (ieu.  Waldo  (who  died  in  17.'>'.»)  <>btaine(l 
l)i>ssessinu  ol  the  .Musenn^Mis  Patent,  embr.n'in.u'  a  tract  of  .'io  .M.  wide  on  e.ieh 
side  of  the  Penobscot,  and  settled  tiie  ixMiinsulas  with  (Jermans  and  fSi'otch-lrisli. 
Tills  tract  came  into  i>ns.sessiou  of  (icn.  Knox  through  his  wife,  who  was  the 
heiress  of  jiart  of  it,  .'ind  about  17'.'.">  he  i>uilt  here  the  fiiu'st  mansi(Ui  in  Maine, 
and  lived  in  baronial  state,  entertaining  numerous  guests  with  splendid  hosiu- 
tality. 

Henry  Knox  w;is  born  in  Boston  in  17o0,  and  became  a  skilful  military  en- 
gineer and  artillerist.  IIi^  was  commander  of  the  artillery  of  the  (Continental 
Army,  engaged  in  most  of  the  important  battles  and  sieges  of  the  Revolution, 
and  was  Secretary  of  War  from  17.S'j  to  17it5.  He  originated  the  first  and  only 
order  of  American  chiviilry,  the  .Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  was  strongly  aristo- 
cratic in  his  tastes,  and  demanded  the  observance  of  the  eticpiette  of  a  palace  at 
his  manor  in  Thomaston.  The  Knox  mansion  stood  close  to  tlu;  ]M'esent  railway- 
station  (which  was  one  of  the  oltices  of  tiu;  estate),  and  was  demolished  in  lS7:i. 

iStages  run  from  TlKjmaston  to  the  ancient  ]peni'isular  towns  of  Cushiug  and 
I'"riendship,  on  Muscongus  Hay  ;  also  to  St.  (tcorge,  a  historic  old  town,  wliieh 
projects  into  the  sea,  and  is  near  the  islands  which  Weynumth  named  St.  (leorge's 
(in  loot).  Weymouth  set  up  a  cross  (.\ngliean)  on  these  shores,  an<l  wrote,  "I 
doubt  not  ....  it  will  prove  a  very  nourishing  j>la<e  [Maine]  and  be  re- 
jilenished  with  many  faire  townes  and  cities,  it  lieing  a  jirovince  both  fruitful  and 
lilea.sant."  In  1724,' 1(3  soldiers  from  the  Thomaston  Fort,  leil  by  ('apt.  Winslow, 
vvt'i-e  ambu.shed  and  destroyed  among  St.  George's  Islands,  and  in  1753  a  strong 
stone  fort  was  built  on  this  peninsula. 

Beyond  Thomaston  the  train  soon  reaches  Rockland  ( Thnrndike  Hotel), 
a  city  of  7,000  inliabitants,  with  1  national  and  3  state  banks,  2  weekly 
Dapers,  and  8  churches.  The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Owl's  Head 
Bay,  S.  of  the  Camch'U  Mts.,  and  looks  out  on  Penobscot  Bay.  Ship- 
building is  carried  on  lierc,  but  the  chief  industry  is  lime-burning,  the 
city  having  80  kilns,  emidoying  1,000  men,  and  making  1,200,000  barrels 
yearly.     The  kilns  should  be  seen  by  night. 

Stages  run  to  S.  Thomaston  ami  the  bold  cditfs  of  Owl's  Head  ;  to  St.  George  ; 
to  Augusta,  and  to  Camden  ami  Belfast. 

Steamers  fcu'  Bangor,  Portland,  Mt.  Desert,  and  Machias  touch  at  this  port. 

iJix  Island  is  a  few  miles  Irom  Kockland,  and  is  avast  mass  of  granite.  (iOO 
men  worked  here  in  1872,  cutting  stone  for  the  New  Vtak  Post  Ullice,  the  stones 
tieing  carved  and  numbered,  all  ready  to  swing  into  position.  The  immense 
iiionolithie  colunuis  of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  building  at  Washington  were  cut  here, 
and  the  vessels  load  directly  from  the  sides  of  the  ledges.  It  is  thought  that  this 
granite  is  unrivalled  for  t>eauty,  compactness,  and  uni!brmity. 

Nearly  lirdf  of  the  valiant  I'enobscot  regiment  (4th  .Maine)  was  rai.sed  at  Roek- 
1  iiid  in  ISOl.     It  received  a  stand  of  colors  from  the  ladies  of  New  York,  and  lost 


302    Route  45.     PORTLAND  TO  iMOUNT  DESERT. 


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in  men  at  the  Bull  Run  l.attlcs,  lon  at  tlio  FrfMlcricksljiir«  ))attles,  138  at  fiettys- 
Imrg,  and  184  on  tli<;  lir.st  day  nl'  tlie  NVildcriifss  caiiiiiai^n.  '.iUi  of  its  nieinbera 
died  in  the  seivi(!e.  Us  ((ilonfl,  11.  (i.  Ikiry,  hecamc,  u  inajor-f^eneral,  and  was 
killed  at  the  head  of  his  division  (;id,  of  the  3d  Curps)  at  the  battle  of  Chancel- 
lorsville. 

45.  Portland  to  Mount  Desert. 

In  stormy  weather  it  is  best  to  go  from  Portland  toRo'kland  by  rail  (Route  44), 
and  then-  take  the  steamer.  Mt.  Desert  is  110  M.  N.  E.  of  i'ortland,  and  the  faro 
to  H;ir  Harbor  is  S5.oO. 

Passengers  leaving  lioston  by  Route  157  (Eastern  R.  R.)  at  6  r.  M.  Tuesday  or 
Friday,  will  reaeh  I'ortland  in  time  for  tint  steamer,  whicii  leaves  at  10  r.  m.,  or 
on  the  arrival  of  the  train.  The  jiier  is  near  the  station.  Fares  from  Roston  to 
liar  Harbor,  or  Maehiaspin't,  $0.00  ;  to  Castine,  ;i!i4.00.     .See  also  Route  48. 

The  teanier  "Lewistnn"  leaves  Portland  at  10  P.  M.  and  passes  over 
ordinarily  (inlet  waters,  outside  tlic  famous  i)eniiisular  town.s  of  Sagada- 
hoc and  Lincoln  Counties,  to  Rockland,  wliic  h  is  reached  at  5  A.  M.  TIio 
tourist  sliould  arise  as  early  as  possible,  to  enjoy  the  scenery  of  Penob- 
scot Bay.  Leaving  Rockland,  with  Owl's  Head  on  the  r.  and  the  j)ictur- 
esijue  Camden  Ilills  on  tlie  1.,  tlie  steamer  crosses  tlie  broad  Penobscot 
Bay,  between  the  insular  towns  of  Islesborongh  avd  Vmalliaven,  and  at 
about  7  A.  M.  reaches  Castine  (two  inns).  Tliis  is  a  i)relty  village  on  a 
narrow  peninsula  projecting  into  the  bay,  and  its  history  is  of  great 
interest. 

Castine. 

This  peninsula  was  called  Pentagoet,  and  was  taken  by  the  Plpnouth  Com- 
l)any  for  a  trading-post.  There  was  a  Puritan  f<n-t  here  in  162ti,  and  at  a  later 
day  the  place  was  taken  l>y  tlie  tleet  of  l)'.\ulney,  who  ha<l  been  sent  out  by  Car- 
dinal Richelieu  and  Razilla,  to  recover  Acadia.  D'Aulncy  built  strong  fortitiea- 
tions  here,  and  withstood  a  hmg  bonil)ardment  from  two  Mass.  ships  under  Capt. 
(iirling.  The  next  few  years  arc  made  romantic  by  the  wars  of  the  rival  feudal  lords, 
D'Aulncy  and  La  Tour,  tlie  one  Catholic  ;ind  tlic  otlicr  Huguenot,  in  wliich  Pen- 
tagoet and  St.  .John  sutl'crcd  repeated  sieges  and  attacks.  In  1074  a  Dutch  tleet 
t<iok  Pentagoet  after  suflering  .some  losses.  In  1007  Vincent,  Baron  de  St.  Cas- 
tin,  formerly  colonel  of  the  l{oyal  Carignan  Regiment,  and  the  lord  of  Oleron,  in 
the  Flench  Pyrenees,  came  to  Pentagoet,  married  the  (laughter  of  Matloekawando, 
the  Sachem  of  the  Tarratines,  ami  became  the  apostle  of  Catholicism  among  the 
tribes,  who  revered  him  nuire  than  his  creed.  In  1088  Sir  Kdnmnd  Andros, 
witli  the  "  Rose  "  frigate,  jjlundered  the  settlement,  and  St.  Castin  was  ever  after 
a  bold  enemy  of  Mass.  In  lO'.tO  he  led  his  Indians  in  Iberville's  fleet  against 
Pemaiiuid.  which  he  destroyed.  After  living  here  for  30  years,  he  fought  in  tlie 
Nova  Scotia  cam]iaigns  of  1700-7,  and  then  returned  to  France.  His  son  by  the 
Tairatiiie  jirincess  liecame  cliief  of  the  Ptniobscot  tribes,  and  was  a  i)eacefnl, 
brave,  and  magnanimous  gentleman,  who  ruled  his  wild  subjects  successfully 
until  17-1,  wlien  he  was  led  iirisoner  to  Boston.  He  usually  wore  the  Indian 
costume,  but  sometimes  ai»iteared  in  a  superb  French  uniform.  In  17-'-*  he  went 
to  France,  and  took  iiossession  of  his  father's  property,  honors,  and  sei;jniorial 
riglits,  and  lived  until  his  death  on  his  Pyrenean  estates.  Lineal  descendants 
of  the  St.  Castins  have  governed  the  Tarratines  until  the  i)resent  (at  least  until 
1800).  The  New-Englanders  settled  at  Castine  in  1700,  and  in  1770  it  was  fortihed 
by  0."A)  British  soldiers.  Mass.  sent  a  powerful  force  against  this  point,  consist- 
ing of  2,000  soldiers,  in  24  transports,  (onvoyed  by  It)  war-vessils,  carrying  344  , 
cannon.  The  .\mericans  were  twice  rejiulsed  from  the  peninsula,  but  after  losing  Isul 
loo  men  in  a  third  attempt  they  landed  and  ojicned  batteries.  After  several  days  l^pj 
of  cannonading,  7  British  frigates  (204  guns)  entered  the  bay,  and  l)ore  down  vu  >^ 
the  crescent  line  of  American  ships.     After  one  br<)adside  tlie  .American  line  wy.-  f'l'jj 


an 

hul 
fid 


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MOUNT   DESEllT. 


lioutc  45.    303 


t  Gettys- 
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lid  the  fare 

Tuesiliiy  or 

10  V.  M-.  ^'^ 
I  Uv)stou  to 

Lc48. 

passes  over 
of  Saga'^a- 

y  of  Peuob- 
\  the  pictviT- 
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village  on  a 
y  is  of  great 


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i  ^a.ul  ut  a  late^ 
out  out  ^y.Vifa- 
Vinsumlei  Cal^- 
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I 


broken,  and  a  disgraceful  dphamlmk  ensued.  After  a  hot  ])nrsuit  ainon^  the 
island.-,  and  up  the  river,  every  vessel  of  the  ^neat  tieet  was  taken  or  destroyed, 
without  resistance.  The  army  stra^';,dfd  in  lnoken  s(|iiads  to  tlie  Keinieltee  set- 
tlements, and  Commodore  .Saitnnstall  was  cashirred  for  the  most  slianiefid  ilefeat 
wiii'di  America  ever  sutVered  on  tlie  sea.  fast ine  was  lidd  1)V  tlie  Hritish  from 
177'.'  to  17"^:}.  ami  was  afjain  taken  and  held  hy  4.000  of  their  troops  in  the  War  of 
isrj.  The  history  of  Castine  has  more  romantie  interest  than  that  of  any  New 
En^dand  town,  and  its  soil  al»o  inds  with  tlie  relics  of  5  natii>nal  occupatiims, 
while  5  naval  battles  have  been  iouyht  in  its  harbor. 

Castine  is  a  wealtliy  town,  with  neat  wide  strcet.s  and  fine  residences. 
It  is  tlie  seat  of  the  Eastern  Normal  School,  and  has  3  chnielies.  The 
chief  hnsiness  of  the  pooide  is  connected  with  the  .sea,  in  shiphuilding, 
coasting,  or  the  deejt-sea  fisheries.  Faint  truces  of  St.  Castin's  fort  are 
seen,  and  on  the  hill  behind  the  village  the  English  Fort  George  is  well 
preserved.  The  remains  of  various  American  }>atteries  and  field-works 
are  found  on  the  peninsula,  while  the  harbor  is  commaiuled  by  a  neat 
little  fort  recently  erected  by  the  United  States.  Castine  i.s  a  favorite 
summer-resort,  by  reason  of  its  seclusion,  its  heroic  memories,  its  fine 
boathig  and  fishing  facilities,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  sea-breezes. 

From  Castine  the  steamer  turns  S.,  and  rounding  Cape  Rosier,  j)a.sses 
through  a  narrow  sound,  and  .stops  at  I  Jeer  Idc,  an  insular  town  of  ,'],400 
inhabitants,  devoted  to  the  deep-sea  fisheries.  The  souinl  is  then  crossed 
to  Seihjioick,  a  rugged  and  thiidy  iidialjited  town,  beyond  which  the 
course  is  S.  E.  around  Naskeag  Point,  and  across  the  island-strewn  Bay, 
^vith  Mt.  Desert  looming  in  front,  and  the  lofty  Blue  llill  (950  ft.  high) 
on  the  N.  Passing  around  the  lower  point  of  Tremont,  S.  W.  Harbor  is 
entered,  ami  the  steamer  stops  at  a  pier  near  a  great  lobster-canning  fac- 
tory. Leaving  this  point,  the  island  shores  are  rounded,  with  their  re- 
markable rock-bound  cliffs  and  overhanging  mountains,  and  Bar  Harbor 
is  soon  reached  (at  about  noon). 

Mount  Desert. 

Hotels,  At  S.  IV.  Harhnr.  Island  House  ;  Ocean  ;  Freeman.  At  SomesviHe, 
Sollies' T.-ivern.  At  Bar  Ildrhor,  A'^^nimmt  House;  Bay  View  ;  Ilamor  ;  Rodiek  ; 
Uockaway  ;  Eden;  Atlantic;  St.  Sauveur  ;  Ocean;  Xewjiort;  Deering  ;  Kebo  ; 
Wayside  ;  Green  Mt.  House.  These  hotels  are  mon;  properly  lar^e  boarding-- 
houses, at  which  board  may  be  obtained  for  about  .'•3  10.00  a  week.  There  is  al- 
ways a  sntllcicncy  of  food,  but  owin^^  to  the  remoteness  from  market,  there  is  nut 
so  much  variety  as  might  be  desired. 

Mount  Desert  is  an  island  covering  100  square  miles,  and  is  distin- 
guished for  its  wild  and  romantic  scenery  of  mountain,  lake,  and  shore, 
and  for  its  curious  and  poetic  history.     Politically,  it  is  divided  into  3 
towns,  with  an  aggregate  of  about  4,000  inhabitants,  on  G0,000  acres  of 
.  land.     It  is  said  that  there  is  no  point  (except  Rio  Janeiro)  on  the  x\tlan- 
jtic  coast  of  the  Americas,  where  such  magnificent  scenery  is  found,  — the 

i sublimity  of  the  mountains  challenging  the  eternal  grandeur  of  the  sea. 
There  are  13  ilistinct  mountain-peaks  here,  with  numerous  lakes,  while  a 
Ideup,  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  runs  to  the  N.  nearly  through  the  island. 


i 


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.304    Jiui(ic4o. 


MOUNT  DESKliT. 


The  sea-shore  by  Bar  JIarbor.  Tlie  view  from  llie  village  is  very  pretty, 
extending  across  the  Porcuitine  Isluiids  in  Frencliiuan's  Bay  to  the  rolling 
liills  of  GonMsborough.  'I'liere  are  l)eache.s  near  tlie  village,  and  on  a 
liigli,  rocky  islet  near  by  is  the  summer  residence  of  Gen.  Fremont.  The 
beach  rambles  may  bi-  done  by  the  Avater-side  at  low  tide,  but  the  chief 
points  of  interest  are  more  easily  and  safely  reached  by  the  roads  which 
follow  tlie  sliore.  CronnrcWs  Ci>vr  is  nearly  \h  M.  8.  of  the  village,  and 
lias  bold  difl'-shores,  on  one  of  wliich  is  seen  the  rock-ligure  called  the 
Assyrian.  Tlie  Indian's  Foot  (a  foot-print  in  the  rock)  and  the  Pulpit 
are  in  tliis  vi(dnity.  4  M.  S.  of  Bar  Hariior  (by  a  road  leading  under  New- 
port Mt.  on  the  r.,  and  with  the  Bay  and  tin-  ri»untl-l)acked  and  bristling 
I'orcupine  Islands  on  tlie  1.)  is  Schooner  Head,  a  high,  wave-washed 
clilf,  with  a  white  formation  on  its  seaward  side,  which  resembles  a 
schooner  under  sail.  It  is  said  to  have  been  cannonaded  l)y  a  British 
frigate  in  1812,  The  Spouting  Horn  is  a  pas.sage  worn  through  the  cliff, 
through  which  the  billows  sweep  in  stormy  weather,  and  form  an  inter- 
mittent fountain  above  the  cliff.  The  Mermaid's  f.'ave  is  S.  of  the  Head, 
and  l.\  M.  beyond  is  *  Great  Head  (gained  by  a  field-path  to  the  1.),  "the 
highest  headland  between  Cape  Cod  and  New  Brunswick,"  with  wonder- 
ful clitls  and  chasms,  and  a  broad  sea-view,  Newport  Beach  stretches 
beyond  Great  Head  to  Thunder  Cave  (entered  only  by  boat),  which  is  in 
tlie  lofty  Otter  Creek  Cliffs. 

G-7  M.  N.  W.  of  Bar  Harbor  are  the  Ovens,  a  range  of  caves  in  the 
})ori)hyritic  cliffs  on  Salisbury  Cove,  wliere  tlie  sea  lias  j)roduced  some 
fine  effects  of  beach  and  worn  rocks  and  briglit  and  dripj)ing  ledges.  The 
Via  Mala  is  a  long  passage  in  the  neighboring  difls.  At  Hull's  Cove 
{lIulVs  Cove  House,  §7-10.00  a  week),  2  M.  N.  of  Bar  Harbor,  is  a  neat 
crescent  beach,  near  which  the  Gregoires  dwelt.  Madame  Marie  Therese 
de  Gregoire  was  the  granddaughter  of  the  Gascon  noble,  Condillac,  to 
whom  the  King  of  France  granted  Mt.  Desert  in  1(388.  In  1785  she 
claimed  and  received  the  island,  and  lived  here  with  M.  Gregoire  until  her 
death  (about  1810).  From  Point  Levi,  N.  of  the  Cove,  a  fine  view  is 
given  of  Frenchman's  Bay,  which  is  10-12  M.  long  and  about  8  M.  wide, 
witli  Newport  and  Schoodic  Mts.  on  r.  and  1.,  at  its  entrance,  —  "the 
I'illars  of  Hercules  at  Mt.  Desert," 

*  Jordan's  Pond  is  9  M.  S.  W.  of  Bar  Harbor,  by  a  road  passing 
through  Echo  Notch.  About  8  M.  Ijeyond  the  village  a  side  road  to  the 
r.  is  taken,  which  leads  to  the  lake,  situated  between  the  noble  cliffs  of 
Sargent's  ^^t.  on  the  W,  and  Mt.  Pemetic  on  the  E.,  with  the  Bubble 
Mts.  on  the  N.  The  banks  of  tiiis  lake  furnish  the  most  beautiful  pros- 
jiects  on  the  island,  with  rare  combinations  of  the  charms  of  mountain- 
waters  and  mountaiii-cliils.     The  lake  is  2  M.  long,  and  A  M.  wide,  and 


f 


'o 


aflbrds  good  trout-hshing. 


CHIEKN   iMT. 


Jimtte  Ji.5.     305 


ry  v^etly, 
he  rolling 
ami  on  a 
ont.     The 

the  chief 
,a,ls  whieh 
•ilUige,  and 

called  the 
the  Tulpit 
vuvler  New- 
,1,1  hvistliut? 
vave-washeil 
resembles  a 
by  a  British 
igh  tlie  cliff, 
,rm  an  inter- 
of  tlie  Ileail, 
,thel.),''the 
with  wonder- 
each  stretches 
t),  which  is  in 

if  caves  in  the 
produced  some 
|g  ledges.     The 
X  Hidl's  Cove 
^xrbor,  is  a  neat 
Marie  Therese 
J,  Condillac,  to 
In  1785  she 
■goire  xmtil  her 
I  fine  view  is 
,out  8  M.  wide, 

"the 
ranee,  —     ^'"^ 

^  road  passing 
lie  road  to  the  ' 
1  noble  cliffs  of 
Lh  the  Bubble 
[beautiful  pros- 
Is  of  luountain- 
M.  wide,  and 


Eagle  Lake  (so  named  by  F.  E.  Church,  the  artist)  is  2.^  >r.  \V.  of  Bar 
Harbor,  and  is  reached  by  a  path  h.'avii)g  the  road  near  Green  Mt.  It  is 
'2  M.  long,  with  (Inen  Ml.  on  the  K.,  Sargent  and  the  BuhhU;  Mts.  on  the 
S.  and  S.  W.,  and  the  bold  jieak  of  Pcnietic  nn  the  S.  There  are  pretty 
sand-beaches  on  the  shores,  and  tlie  ascent  of  Mt.  Pcvictic  may  bo  made 
from  the  S.  end.  There  are  many  trout  in  these  calm  and  transparent 
waters. 

*  Green  Mt.  is  near  Bar  Harbor,  from  whicli  a  road  leads  to  the  snmmit 
in  4  M.  There  is  a  small  hotel  on  the  sun, nut,  where  acconimotlations  for 
the  niglit  maybe  obtained.  ''The  view  from  Green  Mt.  is  delightful. 
No  other  peak  of  the  same  height  can  be  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of 
the  U.  S.,  from  Lubec  to  the  llio  Grande,  nor  from  any  other  point  on 
the  coast  can  so  fine  a  view  be  obtained.  The  Itoumlless  ocean  on  the  one 
side  contrasting  with  high  mts.  on  the  otlier,  and  along  the  shore  numer- 
ous islam  Is,  ap])eaiing  like  gems  set  in  li(|uid  jtearl,  form  the  most  promi- 
nent features  in  the  scene.  White  sails  dotted  over  the  water  glide  slowly 
along.  We  know  not  what  view  in  natuie  can  be  finer  than  this,  where 
the  two  grandest  objects  in  nature,  high  mts.  and  a  limitless  ocean, 
occupy  the  horizon.  The  name  of  Eden  is  truly  appropriate  to  this  beau- 
tiful place."  20  M.  out  on  the  ocean  is  seen  Mt.  Desei't  Hock,  with  its 
lighthouse  bearing  a  tixed  white  liglit.  In  the  W.  are  the  nunu'rous  mts. 
of  the  island,  with  bright  lakes  interspersed,  while  the  Camden  Mts.  are 
in  the  distance.  It  is  said  that  Katalidin  is  sometimes  visible  in  the  re- 
mote N,  (100  M.  away).  Frenchman's  Bay,  with  its  many  islands,  and 
the  Gouldsborough  Mts.  beyond,  is  outspread  on  the  E.  It  is  claimed 
that  Mt,  Washington  has  been  seen  from  this  i)oint,  140  M.  W.  Whittier 
thus  describes  this  view  (in  "Mogg  Megone"). 


"  The  liprniit  p'iest,  who  lineprs  now 
Oil  the  Hiild  .Mdiiiit'iin's  shruhk'S!*  brow, 
Thi'  pniy  iind  ihniulc-sinittcn  pile 
Wliii'h  nuirks  iiiir  till-  Descit  Islf, 
While  lin/.iiiff  III!  thu  sceiu-n  bclnw, 
May  hall' lurfe'it  the  (IreniiiH  ot'tuiiiie. 

Tar  eastward  o'er  the  lovely  bay, 
riiiobsc'ot's  clusteied  wigwams  lay  ; 

Beneath  the  westward  tiirninfr  eye 
A  thousand  wooded  islands  lie,— 
Cieinsj  of  the  waters  !  —  with  curh  hue 
Of  brightness  set  in  ocean's  blue. 

There  sleep  Plaeentia's  proup.  —  and  there 
Piire  Breteaux  marks  the  hour  of  prayer. 


And  there,  beneath  the  sea-worn  cliff, 

On  which  the  Father's  hut  is  seen. 

The  Indian  stays  his  roi'kiiif;  skiff, 

Anil  in'er<  the  heniloek-lioiijilis  between, 

ILilttremMinj:,  iis  he  seeks  to  look 

I'lKiii  the  ,Ies '"it's  Cross  and  Book. 

'I'liere,  L'liMiiiiily  ajjainst  ihe  bky 

The  Dark  Isles' rear  their  summits  hlg.'  ; 

And  DesiTt  Rock,  abrupt  and  bare, 

Lifts  its  prav  turrets  in  the  iiir. 

Seen  fnim  afar,  like  siime  stronghold 

Built  by  the  nceiin-kinps  of  old  : 

And,  f:iiiit  as  smoke-wreath  white  and  thin 

Swells  in  the  north  vast  Katulidin  ; 

And  wanderin<,'  fiom  its  marshy  feet 

The  broad  I'eiiobsoot  comes  to  meet 

And  mingle  with  his  own  bright  bay." 


Newpoi't  Mt.  is  near  the  water,  and  commands  a  noble  view  of  "  the 
Very  many  sliadowy  mountains  and  the  resounding  sea."  The  ascent  is 
made  from  the  Schooner  Head  road.  Most  of  the  other  mts.  have  been 
ascended  and  furnish  tine  views,  while  the  summit  of  Kebo  (J  hr.  from 
liar  Harbor)  affords  a  charming  prospect  at  sunset. 


30G    RoxUe45. 


SOMES'  HOUND. 


f     . 


h 


\>     i 


., ) 


^41  li 


M 


S.  W.  Harbor  and  Somes'  Sound. 

Besules  the  liotds  at  the  Harbor  tliero  are  hir},'o  hibster-pucking  works 
near  the  steamboat  wliarf.  <i  M.  S.  W.  is  the  ceh'lcate^l  .SV«  Wall,  a 
ridge  of  harge  stones  tlirowii  up  by  the  sea,  1  M.  loiiir,  l.O  tt.  liigl.,  and  of 
great  width.  5  M.  W.  is  Srctl  Con:,  a  small  harbor  near  a  hike  which  is 
4  M,  long  and  very  narrow,  under  the  spurs  of  Western  Mt.  L(niu  Lake 
is  2^  M.  N.  W.  from  S.  W.  Harbor,  and  extends  for  .several  miles  Itetweeii 
Jieach  and  Western  Mts.  Dennint/'s  Lake  li»'s  about  3  M.  from  the 
Harbor,  and  is  i  M.  long,  with  Dog  Mt.  on  one  shore  and  tlic  imposing 
ytorm  Clilf  on  Beecli  Mt.  on  the  otluM'.  These  3  large  lakes  are  said  to  be 
well  stocked  with  lish,  and  by  the  near  api)roaeh  of  the  mts.  they  atroitl 
line  scenic  eifects. 

Beech  Mt.  is  often  ascended  from  S.  W.  Harbor  (a  mountain  road  runs 
nearly  to  the  summit).  The  view  embraces  Denning's  Lake,  Somes' 
Sound,  the  eastern  group  of  mts.,  and  Frenchman's  liay,  on  the  E.,  with 
Long  Lake,  Western  Mt.,  Blue  Hill,  Penol)scot  Bay,  aii<l  the  Camden 
Hills,  on  the  W.  The  ocean-view  on  the  S.  is  of  limitk.-s  extent.  The 
bleak  summit  of  Dog  Mt.  and  the  easily  ascended  Flying  Mt.  command 
extensive  prospects  over  SoTues'  Sound  on  the  E.  Sargent's  Mt.  and  Mt. 
Mansell  are  sometimes  asci     led  from  this  i)oint. 

Somes'  Sound  is  an  aim  of  the  sea  which  extends  up  between  the  mt. 
ranges,  for  7  M.,  with  a  width  at  its  entrance  of  2  M.  The  scenery  here 
has  been  likened  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  to  the  Hudson  Iliver  at  the 
Highlands,  and  to  Lake  George.  This  deep  liord  is  a  favorite  sailing 
ground,  althouglx  caution  is  necessary  on  account  of  the  sudden  gusts 
which  sweej*  down  from  the  mts.  "  Somes'  Sound  enables  us  to  sail 
through  the  heart  of  the  best  scenery  on  tlie  Ishuul."  The  Sound  is  well 
seen  from  Clark's  Point,  at  S.  W.  Harbor,  and  a  road  leads  near  its  shores 
to  Somesville,  at  the  N.  end.  After  passing  the  gateway  between  Dog 
Mt.  on  the  1.  and  Mt.  Mansell  on  the  r.,  a  broader  expanse  is  entered, 
with  Beech  Mt.  on  the  1.,  and  Green  Mt.  and  the  eastern  group  on  the  r. 
Fcrnald's  Point  is  on  the  W.  shore,  and  is  a  pleasant  spot,  with  grassy 
lawns  and  a  cold,  clear  spring.  This  was  the  seat  of  the  Jesuit  settlement 
of  St.  Sauveur,  and  Father  Biard's  Spring  is  still  sliown.  There  are 
picturesque  clitfs  on  the  mts.  in  the  vicinity,  and  Flying  Mt.  rises  on  the 
W.  Somesville  (Somes'  Tavern)  is  a  small  village  prettily  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  Sound.  The  central  lakes  and  mts.  are  easily  visited 
from  this  jjoint,  and  the  boating  and  tisliing  on  the  Sound  are  much  prized. 
Somesville  is  G  M.  from  S.  W.  Harbor,  8  M.  from  Bar  Harbor,  and  4  M. 
from  Fernald's  Point. 

In  1603  Ileiiii  IV.  of  France  granted  to  the  Sieur  de  Monts  all  the  American 
shores  between  tin;  luosent  sites  of  Pliil;i(lel])hia  and  Quebec,  under  the  name  of 
Acadia.     While  De  Monts  au«l  Chauiplaiu  were  exploring  llieir  v;u-it  duniuin,  they 


roKTLAND  TO   LKWI8T0N   AND   liANGOR.    JtouU- 4U.     307 


ug  -works 
;  Wall,  a 
ft,  aixl  of 
which  is 

s  liitwcen 

t'roui  the 

,  imposing 

i  sai«l  ^o  ^-"^ 
they  atToi-d 

\  Toad  vuns 
tke,  Somes' 
lie  E.,  witli 
■he  Cumileu 
xtent.     The 
;t,  coumuvnil 
Mt.  aiKl  Mt. 

..gen  themt. 
scenery  here 
lUver  at  the 
orite  sailing 
sudden  gusts 
ss  \is  to  sail 
ovmd  is  well 
,c-ar  its  shores 
K'tween  Uog 
le  is  entered, 
jup  on  tlie  r. 
■  with  grassy 
uit  settlement 
L     There  are 

.  rises  on  the 

iy  situated  at 
easily  visited 

,  mucli  priced. 

•bor,  and  4  M. 

\\  the  American 
lor  the  name  ol 
Lt  douuiin,  tlie> 


I 


saw  the  peaks  of  this  island,  hifh  was  cnlled  Montt^  Denrrts  hy  f'hninplniii.  Tlio 
jiricsts  BianI  ami  Masse  assuii,.  I  too  iiiiwli  anthuiify  at  tiic  Port  U'i\,il  colony, 
aiiil  were  sternly  rel>iiU<  il  l»y  its  cliicl",  I'ntriiicnurt,  who  said,  "  It  is  my  part  Ut 
nilt'  yctii  (»n  (sartli,  aii«l  yuns  only  to  fiuidt-  nic  to  heavrn."  Tlit>v  tlin'atcnctl  to 
lav  till'  rolnny  iimlcr  intt  nlii't,  ;iml  rnfritironrl  s  son  so  r»'siMitr<i  tliis  that  they 
lift  I'ort  Uiiyal  on  a  slii|)  sent  lioni  lianr'c  hy  Mailanu'  ili-  (iurirli'villc,  with 
otiirr  Jesuits  mi  huari.  Tlw  niissinn  liami  sailrd  to  thr  !S  "Wrtlicn  diH- 
coviTod  that  we  were  nrar  till'  nIioic  df  Mt.  !)is<rt,aii  i-1  uid  wliirh  iho  savages 

call  IVmrtif Wt;  retiu  urij  tliaiil<s  to  (iod,  rlovatiiii,' the  Cioss,  and  sin^'in^ 

]>raise.s  with  the  holy  Sanirui'  ot'tli''  Mass.  Wr  iinned  tin-  pl.ui'  and  liarhor  St. 
Sanveur."  (Fathkh  Hiaiid.)  Hist'  .ians  ditrer  as  'o  tin- duration  of  the  settle- 
nn'iit,  but  it  was  llnally  liroUcn  uji  hy  Sanund  Ary''  ^hncrnor  of  Virvcinia,  who 
surinisi'd  the  jdaci'  in  a  tiiiir  uf  profound  pi-arc.  II  s  U-gun  sliip  cnfcii'l  the 
Sound  "as  fleet  as  an  arrow,"  and  took  the  Kremdi  vessel  after  some  cannonnd- 
iii;,'.  Father  Hu  Thet  having'  been  shot  down  at  u  jiiui.  The  Kiij;lish  now  jilun- 
dered  the  villaj?e,  liiokc  down  the  Jesuits'  crosses,  and  carried  siicli  of  tlio 
colonists  as  they  coiiid  lind,  captives  to  V'ir^'inia.'  .MtlioicMi  granted  by  l.ouia 
XIV.  to  Coiidillac  in  Kiss,  the  i-l,niil  was  not  resettlcil  until  the  arrival  of  Soincs 
in  1701.  Ill  1702  Mt.  Desert  was  i^ranted  to  (i-tv.  l?ern.inl,  of  Mass.,  from  whom 
it  was  conliscated  during;  the  llevolution  because  he  w.is  a  royalist,  in  17S'),  k 
of  the  island  was  granted  by  Mass.  to  Sir  John  Hcrnard  (t lie  Governor's  son),  ana 
soon  utter  the  greater  jiart  of  it  was  ^iveii  to  the  (ireyoiix  s,  heirs  of  ( Dndilhie. 

Mt.  Desert  to  Maehiaspnrt. 

After  leaving  Bar  Harbor  tlu'  steamer  cros.ses  Fremlniian's  T!ay  and 
rounds  the  bold  Sihnodic  Point.  The  d-ep  fiords  of  (ioiiklsliorough  and 
SteuVien  are  seen  on  the  N.,  with  the  peninsulas  wiiieh  here  run  out  from 
the  mainland,  and  Little  Menan  Island  is  passed,  with  its  lighthou.<?e, 
109  ft.  high.  The  maritime  village  of  Millbridijc  (Atlantic  House)  is 
reached  about  3  hrs.  after  leaving  Mt.  Desert.  The  steamer  then  crosses 
Nurraguagus  Bay  to  Jonesport  (Bay  View  House),  a  peninsular  to\vn 
devoted  to  fishing  and  the  coasting  trade.  Englishman's  Bay  and  Machias 
Bay  are  now  crossed,  and  Machias2)ort  (Deering  House)  is  reached  (by  5 
o'clock,  P.  M. ).  Tliis  is  a  shipbuilding  villagi;,  with  a  railroad  8  M.  long 
running  into  the  lumber  di.strict  of  Whitneyville. 

ULAChieiB  (Eastern  J fotel ;  Clare's  Hotel)  is  a  manufacturing  town  of 
2,530  inhabitants,  on  tlie  Machias  River,  N.  of  the  port.  It  was  fought 
for  by  the  Engli.sh  and  French  in  the  17th  century,  and  finally  settled  in 
1703.  The  British  war- vessel,  the  "  Margaretta,"  was  captured  here  in 
1775,  and  Sir  Robert  Collier's  fleet  was  repulsed  in  1777  hy  the  militia  and 
the  Passamaquoddy  Indians. 

46.  Portland  to  Lewiston  and  Bangor. 

Trains  leave  the  Maine  Central  station  on  arrival  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  traina 
from  Boston,  some  of  the  cars  from  Boston  iiassing  over  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Bangor  line.     One  train  daily  runs  to  Bangor,  and  tliree  trains  to  Lewiaton. 

1  LEicarbot,  De  Monts' Hupiienot  chaplain.  Is  the  only  historian  who  jiistlflpg  ArjraH's 
attack.  This  gentleman  was  a  Icndinff  member  of  7/'Or'/rR  dc  lion  Ton),.*,  devoted  to  hunt- 
ing, fishing,  and  feasting.  All  visitors  to  Mt.  Desert  should  join  this  order  (in  spirit),  and  a 
series  of  scrnmhies  over  the  mta.  will  render  feasting  poisibfe,  even  with  the  Arugal  fare  of 
the  island  hotels. 


' 


l.\ 


308     JioiUe40. 


LKWISTON. 


I*    i     m*'. 
It    .' 


t:  » 


II     :t 


l)il 


t|  tt! 


llM  ! 


Tlie  train  runs  throupli  the  funning  towns  of  eastern  Cunilteilund 
f'onnty  tor  ^\  hours,  i)iissini,'  the  .stations.  iUnnlicrlaud,  Wnlnut  Hill, 
iiraij,  anil  y!cw  iiluuccskr.  At  JJnucille  Junction  thu  Grand  Trunk 
Kail  way  is  crossed. 

Station,  Auburn  (Kim  House;  Maine  Hotel),  a  iirosi)erous  little  <.'ity 
just  across  the  river  from  Lewiston.  Auhurn  hecanio  a  city  in  IWJD,  and 
has  a  population  of  (i,lt;(),  with  many  lii^'c  Khoe-fadories  and  other 
works.     The  Anilioscojftjin  County  hnildin.LTs  are  located  here. 

Station,  Lewiston  (*  /a-  Witt  I/nnsr,  fVontiu},'  on  the  I'ark,  $3.00  u 
day;  LeAvislon  Uoii.tr),  a  nianufa(;turing  city  of  recent  growth,  having 
i:{,()02  inlial)itants,  with  13  Itanks  and  a  daily  pajjcr.  The  new  *  City 
Hall  (finished  in  ls7ii)  is  one  of  the  lineht  muiuciiial  buildings  in  New 
England,  and  has  a  lofty  anrl  grae(;ful  tower  suiniounted  by  a  s]>ire.  It 
fronts  on  tlu^  i'ark,  near  the  De  Witt  House.  A  large  water-power  is 
derived  from  the  f  ills  on  the  Androscoggin  Iliver,  and  is  utilized  mainly 
l)y  cotton  and  woollen  mills.  Over  $6,000,000  are  invested  in  these 
•works,  which  turned  out  $33,750,0(K)  worth  of  goods  between  LSOl  and 
1SG7.  Nearly  4,000  hands  are  employetl  in  these  nulls,  which  run  "208,000 
spindles,  and  turn  out  yearly  275,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths,  OoO.OOO 
yards  of  woollen  goods,  and  2-3,000,000  bags.  Many  French  Canadians 
are  employed  here,  and  the  nundjer  of  young  people  in  the  city  is  ipiite 
notable.  The  bridge  leading  to  Auburn  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
Lewiston  Falls,  where  the  river  breaks  over  a  ledge  of  blackened  gneiss 
and  mica  schist  rocks.  The  natural  fall  is  over  40  ft.,  and  has  been  in- 
creasetl  to  50  ft.  by  a  strong  granite  dam  which  is  braced  against  the 
rocky  islets  above  the  ledge.  The  water  led  otf  by  the  factory  canals 
seems  scarcely  to  be  missed  in  the  broad  masses  which  thunder  over  the 
ledges. 

A  terrilile  legend  is  attached  to  these  falls,  to  the  effect  that  early  in  the  last 
century  a  whiti'  lienuit  li\eil  on  one  of  tlie  islands  above.  The  Intiians  feared 
and  .sliunned  liiin,  and  plotted  his  destruction.  The  liernut  learned  tlieir  i>l.ins, 
and  set  a  liwlit,  on  the  evening'  appointed  for  the  attack,  at  a  point  l)eh)W  tlie  falls. 
M  Indians  (so  many  from  tlieir  ^^reat  fear  of  him)  drojiped  down  in  tlieir  canoes 
by  ni'^lit,  intending'  to  land  Ir'  the  camp-lire  on  his  island.  But  seein;;  the  lii;ht 
below  the  falls  (liis  (jwn  lire  hiwing  been  ]iut  out),  they  steered  conlidcntly  toward 
it,  -ul  when  it  was  too  late,  fiaind  their  canoes  in  the  wild  current  over  the  falls. 
The  legend  says  that  not  one  of  them  escaped  with  life  from  that  fearful  plunge. 

Bates  College  is  back  of  Lewiston,  and  has  three  commodious  new 
buildings.  It  was  organized  in  1804,  is  under  the  care  of  the  Free-Will 
Baptist  Church,  and  has  a  Theological  School  attached.  There  are  12 
instructors  and  103  students,  with  about  7,000  volumes  in  the  library. 

After  leaving  Lewiston  the  train  passes  through  the  farming  towns  of 
Greene,  Leeds  (where  the  Androscoggin  Division  crosses  the  present  route), 
Monmouth,  and  Winthrop  (Winthrop  House).  This  is  a  pleasant  village, 
near  the  Cobossee  Coutee  Pond,  which  is  9  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide,  and 


lUiUNHWICK. 


RvHtc  47.    ao'j 


d  Hill, 

I  Trunk 

^c.y,  luiti 

1,1  other 

$  3.00  a 
Ij,  havinf? 
ew  *  City 
fl  in  New 
spin'.     It 
1-. power  ifi 
ml  miiiuly 
I  in   Uioso 
I  1801  and 
run -208,000 
1,3,  000,000 
I  Canatliaus 

ity  is  'l^i>^« 
■low  of  the 
ened  p;nciss 
i;is  been  in- 
against  the 
•tovy  canals 
or  over  the 

ly  ill  the  last 
lulians  IVartHl 
1   ilu'ir  plans, 
^low  the  falls, 
tlieiv  canoes 
Axv^  tl.e  li:4ht 
McutlV  toward 
,)ver  the  falls. 
Iirful  plunge. 

Iiiodious   new 
no  Free-Will 
hiere  are  12 
L'  Uhrary. 
kng  towns  of 
resent  route), 
[asant  village, 
|M.  wide,  and 


in  dotted  with  picturesque  islnnd.s.  W.  of  the  village  is  Mt.  ris^^'nli,  from 
whicli  the  White  Mts.  are  ncen.  ('h).sn  to  Winthrop,  on  either  side,  ure 
the  N<  ith  and  South  Ponds,  while  the  blue  liill.s  of  Dixmont  nmy  he  seen 
in  the  N.  E. 

Station,  Rerdjield  (Craig  House),  tlic  seat  of  the  Maine  Wosloyan 
Seminary  and  Fenude  College,  which  wa.s  incorporated  in  1823,  and  hn.s 
5-000  students  (both  .se.xes).  Stages  run  to  Angnsta,  Karniington, 
Fayett'-,  antlChesterville.  Station,  llilijrmle  (Railmad  House),  in  a  tnwn 
wliose  sni'fa(!o  is  largely  of)inposed  of  lakes.  ]5esi(h's  the  long  Snow's 
Pond,  which  lies  near  the  track  (on  the  r. ),  there  are  noveral  others,  ono 
of  which  i.s  between  iJelgrade,  llonu^,  and  Vienna,  and  covers  2r>  square 
mills  This  lake  is  quite  pictures(|ue,  with  irregular  and  l)r(»ken  shores, 
an  1  several  islands.  Stations,  N.  licl'/nufr,  \V.  ^^V/^'^•^t7A',  and  Water- 
ville,  where  the  A»ig\ista  Division  of  the  M.  C.  Railway  uintes  with  the 
present  routi;  (licwiston  Division). 

NVfttervillo  to  Bangor,  see  Route  47. 

47.  Portland  to  Augusta  and  Bangor. 

Portlantl  to  Ban^'or,  i:!S  M.  Two  throii>,'h  trains  tlaily,  ami  4  trains  daily  to 
Augusta  ((ill  M.).  'I'liis  is  the  favorite  mute  fnim  I'ortlaml  to  tlie  Kast,  pa.ssiii;^ 
throu^'ii  tlm  valley  of  1  lie  Kennchcc,  and  l>y  liriniswick,  (ianlincr.  Ilullowell,  and 
Augusta.  The  trains  on  the  i'.astcrii  li.  U.  (lioiite  ;i7)  from  Boston  make  close 
connections  at  I'onlaml  witli  this  line,  and  some  of  the  curs  pass  o.'.  'on  to  its 
rails.     Time  is  given  at  the  Tortland  station  for  diinier. 

After  leaving  Portland,  the  train  pa.sses  over  the  suburban  i)lains,  and 
stops  at  WnotJfortVs  and  Wrsthrmth.  The  latter  is  a  jioinilous  town, 
with  G,0."30  inliabitants  (in  3  villages),  and  has  large  i)aper  nuinnfactories 
and  works  for  cainung  corn,  lobsters,  &c.  Crossing  now  the  farming 
town  of  Cumberland,  the  line  intersects  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at 
Yarmoidh  (restaurant  at  the  station),  and  then  passes  on  to  Freeport,  a 
village  at  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  devoted  to  shipbuilding.  The  rural 
station  of  Oah  Hill  is  ne.xt  i)assed,  and  then  the  train  enters  Brunswick 
[Bowdoin  House  ;  Tontine  Hotel ;  restaurant  in  the  station). 

P(>)epscot  was  settled  in  1628,  under  a  patent  from  Pl>nnonth,  and  was  soon 
assi;,'ni'(l  to  M*js.,  under  who.se  i)r()teotion  a  flourishing  colony  settled  here.  It 
was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  in  l(i7<t,  and  afterwards  tlie  territory  was  thought  of 
certain  local  ehief.s.  Tlie  conflicting  claims  hetween  the  I'lymouth  j'atent  and 
tills  later  purchase  gave  rise  to  the  most  long  and  vexatious  lawsuit  in  the  annals 
of  Maine.  The  proprietors  built  Fort  George  at  l'e,|ei>seot,  and  in  consideration 
of  £400  from  the  iirovince  and  exemption  from  taxes  for  4  years,  they  uiaintaindl 
at  the  colony  a  clergyman,  a  schoolmaster,  an<l  a  sergeant  with  15  .soldiers.  Tin; 
fort  was  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  at  the  Lower  Fulls,  and  was 
called  the  key  of  Western  Maine,  since  it  guarded  the  favorite  pass  of  the  Ana- 
sagunticook  Indians.  It  was  erected  in  1715,  after  the  town  had  been  destroyed 
a  second  lime  (in  lOStO).  In  1722  Fort  George  was  flanked,  ami  the  town  was  once 
more  ruined  by  the  revengeful  Indians.  The  Anasagunticooks  migrated  to  iSt. 
Francis  later  in  the  century,  and  the  district  was  soon  reoccupied  by  the  Kngllsh, 
and  in  1737  received  the  name  of  Brunswick. 


( 


310     Route  47. 


BOWDOIN  COLLEGE. 


B-  ■ 


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If    . 


Bnmswick  is  a  i)rnsperou.s  town  at  the  falls  and  the  liead  of  tide-water 
on  tlic  Andr().s"oggia  River,  and  is  built  on  two  broad,  parallel  streets.  Tt 
has  4,727  inhabitants,  with  4  banks,  several  chnrrlies,  a  weekly  paj'cr, 
and  nunuTOUs  lundier-niills.  The  river  here  faiib  41  ft.  in  3  pitches,  af- 
fording a  large  water-power,  part  of  which  is  used  by  the  Cabot  cotton- 
mills. 

Bowdoin  College  is  located  on  an  elevated  plain  near  the  railways'ra- 
tion.  This  institution  was  incoqiorated  in  1794,  and  opened  in  1802,  with 
an  endowment  fruni  tlie  Ht;ite  of  5  townships  nnd  .S  IS',!'^^"  ^  yc-ir  for  5 
yea  s.  It  has  al  })resent  29  instructors  and  104  students,  exclusive  of  70 
students  in  the  niedi(;al  department,  with  a  lil>rary  of  about  34,000  vol- 
umes. There  are  good  collections  of  shells,  minerals,  and  other  objects. 
The  conspicuous  building  witli  two  spires,  which  stands  near  the  centre 
of  the  line,  contains  the  handsomely  frescoed  chapel,  the  museuju  of  the 
MrJne  fiistorical  l-jociety,  and  the  gallery  of  ]iaintinps.  Nearer  the  sta- 
tion is  a  large  and  attractive  Memorial  Hall  built  of  stone,  and  the  Medi- 
cal School  is  across  the  roa<l,  and  near  the  Congregational  Church.  The 
pine-groves  in  the  rear  of  the  college  are  widely  known  for  tlieir  sond^re 
beauty,  and  afford  favorite  walks  for  the  students. 

The  Poinknn  dnUn'ii  of  Pniiitivnx.  Pierre  Batidduin  was  a  ITu^Mienot  gentle- 
man from  La  Uoetielle,  \v>io  laiKied  at  Portland  in  Kisy.  His  Ki"'i"ds(n,  .James 
Bowdoin.  was  a  iVieml  of  l'raid\lin,  an  ardent  jiatriot,  ami  Gov.  of  Mass.,  17So-fi. 
James  IJowdoin  tlie  son  of  the  last-named,  was  a  seliolar  and  diplomatist,  and  at 
his  death  be  left  to  this  eolk'KC  (i.OOO  acres  of  land,  S(>,0(,0  in  money,  and  his  ex- 
tensive library,  iiliilosoi>hieal  aiijiaratiis,  and  ])i('ture-gallery.  Some  of  the  jiaint- 
inj,'s  have  been  resiored  with  (inestioiialile  effect. 

2,  Venii '.  eciuijtiiin^'  (Jniiid,  after  Titinn  ;  .'!,  Continence  of  8eii)io,  K.  Foussin 
(perhaps  only  a  line  <ojiy)  ;  .0,  (i,  Sftidio  scenes;  10,  fSaekinu'  a  tov.n,  Flemish 
Seho'i'i ;  11,  Italian  scene,  I'i'vihroine ;  12,  Surt^eon  and  )>atient,  dttrihtited  (n 
Brninrer ;  IS,  i^leepin;;  Cui>i(l,  I'ltpil  nf  Cvido  Jtmi;  l.'j,  Italian  landscape,  N. 
Benihcm  ;  11,  1«>,  liandseapes  ;  17,  Infant  -John  the  Bajitist,  Stella  ;  18,  DuTch 
I>airy  W(tmen,  Flcuiisli  Sellout;  *  l'.»,  Inteiior  of  a  ehureli,  Flevnt<h  School;  21, 
roiiltry,  V/oH''  !:oeter ;  22,  Heven  Ages  of  Man,  Iloaarth  ;  28,  Oltl  Tower,  Hogarth; 
24,  llnins,  Uoijtrrth  ;  2.'>,  The,  Women  at  the  Seiaildire,  .S/mo«  I'ouet  (painted  on 
copper);  2S,  View  on  the  Caiiijia<,'na  ;  oO,  James  Madison,  dUtiertC  Stuart;  32, 
Artillery,  Wouvernian^;  *'*Tlie  (iovernor  of  (iibrallar,  J'an  /)»//iT  (one  of  his  best 
portraits  ;  the  e<)lle.->  has  refnsed  ,S;U),0(i(l  for  it);  'Sh,  The  Head  of  Jolui  the  Bap- 
tist in  a  charger,  after  Ciihlo  lleni ;  'Mi,  The  Saviour,  eoyieit  from  a  jaetine  in  the, 
Jiomaii  C'ltneomhi' ;  ;{7,  Jlirabeau  ;  'Mi,  Adoration  of  the  iMagi,  after  Rubens ;  'V.), 
l)es(t;nt  from  t;.ie  Cross  ;  40,  John  in  th<!  \Vildeniess  ;  44,  *  Holy  Family,  either 
hji  I\aph(al,  or  a  f.iie  eopn  ;  45,  Ti'anslation  of  Klijah  ;  40,  Simon  and  the  ehihl 
Jesus  in  the  Temple,  po.ssibhi  by  Rubens;  50,  A  Scene  in  tlie  Infptisition,  Fle)iii.-ih 
Eihool ;  b\,  Venus  and  Adoius,  after  Titian  ;  l>?>,  Cleoi)atra  ;  5(j,  *The  Angel  deliv- 
ering iVtcr  from  jirison  ;  57,  I'ianaand  Kndymion  ;  5S,  Venus  receiving  gifts  from 
Core^,  attrifiuted  to  J'liliens  ;  5'.»,  Fox  and  Plieasfuit ;  (iO,  Combat  of  Hyena  and 
Dogs;  02,  Adoration  of  (he  Magi,  Domenieo  Frcia^o;  (i;i,  Esther  and  Aliasuenis, 
Franen;  04,  Marine  view,  Flemish  ;  05,  Discovery  of  Achilles,  Tenters;  00,  Lan-l- 
8eni»e,  Duteli ;  07,  TiirUish  sea-light,  Mtnujhiti ;  08,  Morning  on  the  const,,  I.nroi.i  ; 
70,  Cattl(!,  after  Paid  Putter;  70-^'.\  Portraits  of  the  Bowdoins,  who  olaimt  il 
descent  from  Baudoin,  the  Count  of  Flanders  and  Crusader  ;  02,  Storm  at  sea  ;  9'A, 
Landseajie  ;  07,  President  Harrison  ;  OS,  00,  Italian  scenes  ;  100,  View  of  Messina  ; 
102,  Henry  Clay  ;  104,  The  DuUcof  Cnmbcrland,  victor  at  (/ullodeii  :  105.  Pilgrim  ; 
100,  The  Walk'  to  Kmmaus  :  1()7,  Peter  repentant  ;  lio.  111,  Venetian  view.s  ;  112. 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross  ;  110,  117,  French  scenes  ;  110,  Italian  landscape  ;  120,  A 


AUGUSTA. 


Route  4'^.     311 


ie-water 
eets.  Tt 
,y  payer, 
Lches,  af- 
t  cotton- 

Iways'fa- 
802,  with 
car  for  5 
nve  of  70 
4^000  vol- 
>r  objects, 
the  centre 
uui  of  the, 
•er  the  sta- 
L  the  xMe<li- 
.n-cli.     The 
iciv  sombre 


lenot  gentlc- 
idscii,  .Tiuues 
ass.,  i:So-«- 
latist,  and  at 
,  aiui  his  <'X- 
of  the  i>aint- 

f)V.n,   Vlemia^i 
(iltrihuted   to 
aiidscapc,  N. 
L  ;  18.  Dutch 
1/i  School ;   21, 
^Y^•l•,  Ilog'irth: 
it  (pahited  on 
Stud  it ;  3'2, 
i„.  of  his  best 
„hu  the  Bav- 
j.icfH/p  ill  "'" 
•r  HvbcHs;  '■^'■K 
.Family,  ci""''; 
laud  I'.iP  child 
dtiou,  Vlenn^h 
le  Augfl  dchv- 
:iti^  {,'itts  froin 
;,f  Hyena  and 
lid   Ahasvu-vns, 
,-s;   W>.  I'and- 

who  claiin(d 
Inn  at  sea  ;  9;i. 
•xv  of  Messina  ; 
:  105,  rilgrini; 
Jin  vipws;  U'2' 
ls*ai>c  ;  120.  A 


View  on  the  Rliine  ;  122,  123,  Lan(lscai>e3  ;  126,  IMshop  Mcllvaine  ;  127, 128,  AftVc- 
tii'ii  and  Lovp  ;  l.'?I,  Pre-^idont  Pirn't'  :   IM:!,  Portrait,  CitpJc}/. 

I'ranUliii  Pierco,  14th  Prosidoiit  of  tlip  United  States,  was  in  the  Bowdoin  rlaas 
of  1824,  and  in  that  of  1825  Henry  W.  Longfellow  and  Nathaniel  Hawthorne 
were  elassniat^rs.  In  the  ailjieent  village,  .J.  H.  C.  Ahh  itt,  the  liistorian,  and 
G.  P.  Putnam,  tlie  veteran  pnlilislier,  were  horn.  The  Presidency  of  the  Collego 
in  now  liehL  by  J.  L.  Chamberlain,  a  suecessful  general  during  the  {Secession 
War,  an<l  (Jov.  of  Maine,  18(;7-  71. 

Railroads  run  from  Brunswick  to  Lewiston,  Farniington,  and  Bath. 

Beyond  Bninswick  the  main  line  turns  N.,  crosses  the  Androscoggin, 
and  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Kennebec  River  (seats  on  the  r.  preferable) 
tlironpli  tlie  farming  town.s  of  Topsh.am  and  Bowdonihnm,  which  have  lost 
1,100  inhabitants  .«ince  IS,')!).  Stations,  liichrnnniJ,  a  busy  shipbuildin-; 
village  near  the  site  of  Fort  Richmond  (erected  in  171U),  'S',  iJardiner,  and 
Gardiner  (t/o^«.wn^  House;  Evans  House).  This  is  a  city  of  3,103  in- 
habitants, with  4  banks,  9,  weekly  papers,  7  churches,  and  several  small 
factories.  The  chief  industries  rT  Gardiner  are  in  sawing  lumber  in  sum- 
mer ami  ice  in  winter,  and  imr  >  i  ice-houses  maybe  seen  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kennebec.  The  Com  ;  contains  f)  acres,  ami  is  situatetl  on 
Church  iiill  (125  ft.  above  the  river),  which  commands  a  pleasant  view. 
The  .slopes  of  this  hill  are  lined  with  residences,  while  the  stores  are  on 
the  rivervvard  plain,  and  the  factories  are  along  the  water-powtn'  given  by 
the  Cohhoseo  Contee  River.  This  place  was  settled  in  1760,  and  was 
named  in  honor  of  the  fanuly  which  owned  its  territory. 

Station,  Hallowell  [Halloitrll  House,  near  the  station),  a  quiet  little 
city  on  the  banks  of  tht  Kennebec,  with  3,008  inhabitants,  4  banks^  a 
weekly  paper,  and  6  churchos.  It  has  a  few  small  fneiories,  but  is  chiefly 
noted  for  the  extensive  rpmrries  of  white  and  light  gray  granite,  back  of 
the  city,  in  which  250  men  are  emplo;>,  n\,  900,000  y-'.-ds  of  floor  oil-cloth, 
and  2,500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths  are  made  yearly  here.  Hallowell 
was  first  permanently  settled  about  1751,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  its 
chief  proprietor. 

Augusta  {C<my  House,  near  the  station;  Mansion  House;  Aufjusta 
Hotel ;  Central  House),  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Maine,  is  2  M.  X.  of 
Hallowell,  and  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigatic  n.  The  city  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  Kennebec,  and  contains  7,815  inhabitants,  with  5  baidcs,  a 
daily  and  5  weekly  ])apers,  9  churches,  an<l  3  Masonic  lodges.  The  situ- 
ation of  Augusta  is  beautiful,  l)eing  on  and  around  the  high  hills  which 
border  the  river.  About  ^  M.  above  the  town  is  the  great  Kennebec 
Dam,  584  ft.  long,  and  15  ft.  above  high-water  mark.  Besides  improving 
tlie  navigation  of  the  river  above,  this  dam  forms  an  immense  water- 
power,  estimated  at  3,700  net  hoi-se-power.  It  was  built  in  1830 -7,  at 
an  expense  of  8  300,000,  and  has  been  jnirchased  by  A.  k  W.  Sprague, 
the  R.  I.  manufacturers,  who  liave  erected  large  works  io  the  vicitaty, 
and  have  still  others  in  praspect.     The  commercial  part  o.  Augtista  lies 


www 


312    Route  47. 


AUGUSTA. 


^V,^ 


,7- 


I  ? 


along  the  r.  bank  of  tlie  river,  on  Water  St.,  wliile  the  heights  above  are 
occupie(l  by  mansions  and  jxiblic  buildings.  The  handsome  Congrega- 
tional Church,  of  granite,  is  on  the  verge  of  the  ridge,  and  not  far  from 
the  High  School  IniiWing  Farther  S.,  on  State  St.  (which  runs  alorg 
the  heights),  are  tlr^  fine  granite  buildings  of  Kennebec  County,  and  be- 
yond these  is  the  *  Dtate  House.  This  t-legant  structure  is  built  of  white 
gianite,  mostly  derived  from  ledges  of  the  same  material  on  which  it  is 
founded.  It  if  situated  on  a  high  hill,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view, 
and  is  suirounded  by  well-ornamented  grounds.  It  was  built  in  1828  -  '51, 
with  a  solidity  which  is  rarely  encountered  in  American  public  works, 
and  its  prin(ri]ial  external  features  consist  of  a  rustic  basemeiit,  support- 
ing a  colonnade  of  10  moiKililhic  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  wl.ile  above 
all  is  a  graceful  donu .  The  Rotunda  is  first  entered,  —  a  neat  hall  sup- 
ported by  8  columns,  and  draped  with  80  stonu-woru  an<i  })attle-torn 
flags  wl:  ch  were  borne  by  the  Maine  regiments  in  tlie  War  for  tlic  Union. 
li  is  siid  that  wot  a  flag  was  lost  by  tlie  Maine  troops  in  the  war.  The  82 
pennons  of  the  eavalry  and  artillery  .';re  arranged  on  the  side-walls,  while 
in  the  adjacent  loblnes  arc  10  rebel  flags  whicii  were  taken  in  action  >)y 
the  troops  of  Maine.  Under  the  chaiidelier  in  th"  centre  of  the  hall  is  a 
neat  little  fountain,  whose  basin  is  stocked  with  trout.  On  the  walls  are 
portraits  of  Go^-ernor  Pownal,  Sir  William  Pepperell,  Senator  Rufus  King, 
Cen.  Knox,  and  Presidents  Washmgi'  ti  ai'd  Lincoln.  On  one  side  of  the 
hall  is  a  flue  bust  of  Gov.  Chamberlain,  by  Jackson.  From  the  second 
story  access  may  be  gained  lo  ilie  halls  of  tlie  Senate  and  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, and  on  the  S,  side  of  the  tliird  story  is  the  State  Library,  con- 
sisting of  23,000  volumes.  3till  higher  up  is  the  dome,  from  whose  sum- 
mit (easily  accessible  *  a  fi.ie  view  is  enjoyed.  On  the  S.  is  seen  Hallowell, 
over  broad  reaches  of  tiie  silvery  Kennebec  ;  on  the  W.  are  high,  wooded 
hills  ;  on  the  N.  is  the  Avhite  city  of  Augusta  divided  by  the  river  ;  and 
on  the  E.  is  the  Kennebcf^,  with  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  on  the  meadows  l)e- 
yond,  and  the  Insane  Asylum  on  the  heights. 

The  State  Inmne  Asijlum,  is  a  noble  granite  building  on  the  heights  E. 
of  the  rjver,  and  situat' d  in  extensive  ornamental  grounds.  It  cost 
f^  300,000,  and  accommodates  300  patients,  many  of  whom  lighten  the 
hours  of  their  seclusion  from  the  Avorld  by  working  on  a  large  farm  which 
pertains  to  the  Asylum.  The  building  is  262  ft.  long,  and  was  erected  in 
1850  -  52,  after  the  destruction  bv  fire  of  the  old  Asylum,  in  which  27 
patients  and  a  keeper  were  burnt.  Near  this  point  is  the  Kennebec  Arse- 
nal, where  the  United  States  kee])s  several  thousand  stand  of  nrms,  with 
many  cannon  and  other  munitions  of  wai-.  There  are  several  neat  Ijuild- 
ings  here,  and  the  grounds  are  by  tlie  river-side  and  are  well  arranged. 
Tlie  Asylum  and  Arsenal  being  in  the  E.  wards  of  the  city,  are  reached 
by  crossing  the  long  bridge  near  the  foot  of  Water  St.,  from  which  are 
alTorrled  vkws  of  the  slender  and  graceful  iron  raihvay-lM-i  Ige. 


:¥  ^ 


AUr.USTA. 


Rovte4^.     313 


its  above  are 

ne  Congrcga- 

not  far  from 

ih  runs  alovg 

lunty,  and  be- 

Imilt  of  whito 

on  which  it  i-> 

\)ca\itifnl  view, 

iltinl828-'n, 
public  works, 

;meiit,  support - 

[er,  wV.ile  above 

,  neat  hall  sup- 

an«l  battle-torn 

r  for  the  Union. 

he  war.     TheJ^2 

side-walls,  while 

-en  in  action  by 
of  the  hall  is  a 

On  the  walls  are 

lator  Rufus  King, 

)n  one  side  of  the 

Jroni  the  second 

I  House  of  Repre- 

Late  Library,  con- 
froni  whose  sum- 
isseenllallowell, 
are  high.,  wooded 
by  the  river  ;  and 
[the  meadows  l»e- 

i)n  the  heights  F,. 
Igrounds.     It  cost 
Vhom  ligbten  the 
\  large  farm  which 
[nd  was  erected  in 
Hum.  ii»  which  27 
lie  Kennebec  Arse- 
,„,!  of  nrms,  with 
f.veral  neat  build- 
.re  well  arranged. 
1  city,  are  reached 
,  from  which  are 
In-ilr-'-- 


Togus  Sprinc/s  are  about  4  M.  to  the  S.  E.,  and  were  formerly  a  snin- 
mer-resort  of  considerable  local  fame.  In  ISOG  a  National  Asylum  for 
disabled  volunteer  soldiers  was  establi.shed  at  this  beautiful  plaee,  at  an 
expense  of  .'$300,000.  A  farm  of  600  acres  is  attached  to  the  Asylum, 
and  500  men  can  be  accommodated  here,  although  but  200  are  now 
present. 

Anpusta  ocenpies  part  nf  the  ancient  domain  of  the  Cushnne  dan  of  tlie  Can- 
iba.s  tribe  of  the  Abenaciui  nation  of  Indians.  It  '.vh.s  in  tlie  Kennebec  Patent 
granted  to  tlie  Plymontli  ("olnny  in  KIl".',  .iiid  wns  .si-ttlcd  before  l(iJt,  but  aban- 
(loned  and  laid  waste  in  l(l7(i  (Kin;,'  I'Jiiliji's  War).  In  171G  a  stone  loii  was  built 
here,  and  aViandoned  in  17-4  (Lovewdl's  War),  and  in  1754  Fort  We.stern  was 
built  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  KcuMcbec  River.  Tliis  was  u  stroii;,'  fort,  surroumled 
by  pali.saded  outworks  ;.,Mniislied  with  towers,  and  in  the  autumn  of  177.)  it  w.as 
occupied  by  IJcuediet  Arnold,  who  cros.se<l  the  wilderness  to  Quebec  with  1,100 
men  (Xew-Englanders  and  \'ir^iiuans).  Ilisconimand  rested  here  for  some  time, 
and  made  batteanx  in  wliieh  the  Kennebec  was  ascenchid  to  a  point  alu.ve  Mos- 
cow. Ahni^'  porta;,'e  then  tcok  the  forces  to  the  De.id  River,  whirh  was  a.'-cended, 
,(«nd  fearful  hardships  by  liun.^er,  cold,  anllexpo.-^u^e,  t(,'  its  head-waters.  AiiottuT 
{lortage  carried  them  to  hake  .Megantic  (in  Canada),  whence  the  C'haudiere  River 
was  descended,  and  Arnold's  little  army  of  gaunt  and  ragged  heroes  arose  like  an 
apparition  from  the  .savage  southern  wilderness  before  the  walls  of  'Quebec. 

Augusta  pro.-ipercd  in  the  arts  of  jieaee  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Secession 
War,  in  18(J1,  after  whi<'h  it  beanie  a  central  rcn<h'zrn\i!^  for  the  tn>oi>s  of  the 
Rtatt^  Among  the  regiments  which  forme  1  and  ene.imiied  liere  was  the  Sth 
Maii;e,  which  fonglit  in  South  Cirolina  and  Florida,  lost  !•')  men  at  Drury's  Rlulf, 
S:j  at  Wier's  Bottom,  and  ino  ;it  Cold  Harbor,  bearing  mcnwhilc  the  colors  pre- 
sented to  them  by  tin;  Governor  of  .Maryland,  at  Aunapolu.  Also  the  i'th  Maine, 
which  fought  in  S.  Carolina,  stormed  the  Morris  Islaml  l)attcrics  at  dawn,  and 
took  the  colors  of  the  21st  S.  C,  lost  100  men  in  the  rer'Ulse  from  Fort  Wagner, 
and  was  decimated  at  CoM  IIar"'n'-.  Also  thi!  famous  i  >t  .Maine  Cavalry,  which 
fought  at  Brandy  Station,  Aldie,  Luray,  .Middleliurgli,  and  in  numerous  raids 
and  outpost  nttacks,  lo.sing  many  hun<lred  men. 

Augusta  is  !>8  M.  from  Kittery  ;  "l  tJ  .M.  from  Fastpor  ;  'J07  M.  from  Fort  Kent ; 
50  M.  from  Bangor;  5'J  M.  from  Portlainl  ;  and  ISJ  y  from  Pres(jue  Isle.  The 
State,  of  which  it  is  the  capital,  ha<  an  area  greater  •  .lan  that  of  the  other  five 
New  England  States  combined,  but  is  slowly  decrc  ising  in  jiopulation,  having 
suffered  an  actual  loss  of  7,.S7i.'  inhabitants  betwtien  isiii)  and  1x70. 

Steamers  run  between  Augustii,  Portluid,  and  P  /ston,  semi-weekly,  stopping  at 
the  river-landings. 

Stages  run  from  Augu.sta  to  W.  Gardiner,  Litcl  .ii  Id,  Web.ster.  and  Lisbon  Falls; 
to  Winthrop  and  Wayne  ;  to  .Mancliester,  Read'  eld,  Mt.  \'eriion,  Fayette,  Vienna, 
Chesterville,  ami  Farmington  ;  to  Relgradi  ,  Kome,  and  \ew  Sharon  ;  to  S.  Vas- 
salboro,  China,  Albion,  I  iiity,  Troy,  Di.sUiont,  Newburg,  ami  (Jangor ;  to 
Wind.sor,  Palermo,  Liberty,  Montville,  X.  Scarsmont,  Belmont,  and  Belfast  (412 
-M.,  f  .re  )J3.00)  ;  also  across  Liiieohi  County  to  lloekland  and  Daniariseottu. 

y 

At  Augusta  the  line  crosses  the  Kennebec  on  a  light  and  graceful  iron 
>  idge,  and  follows  the  beautil'id  river  for  over  20  M.  (seat  on  the  1.  side 
referable).  Station,  Vassalhuro  (sniull  inn),  a  inannfaeturiiig  village  in 
a  large  and  prosperous  town,  which  is  ph'ji.santly  diversitied  by  hill.'i,  and 
ponds,  and  has  on  the  E.  (Jhina  Lukt\  which  is  about  10  M.  long  and 
ati'ords  good  fishing.  The  lake  is  almost  cut  in  two  by  projecting  points 
nt  the  Narrows,  and  empties  by  the  Sebasticook  River.  S.  China  is  a 
pretty  village  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  with  a  tavern,  a  church,  and  ;J 
:^tores. 

11 


14    R>nUe/,7. 


WATEBVILLE. 


it 

L'i 


^      I 

;?  * 


Beyond  Viissall)oro,  the  train  jtasses  tlirongli  Wiiislow,  and  crosses  the 
Kennebec  near  its  confluence  with  the  Scbasticook.  Tlie  ruins  of  Fort 
Halifax  are  seen  on  the  bluff  point  just  S.  of  the  union  of  the  rivers, 
This  fort  was  oneof  a  chain  erected  by  Mass.  to  ilefend  the  Maine  coast 
from  French  raids.  It  was  built  by  Gov.  Shirley  in  1 754,  and  garrisoned 
by  130  men,  until  its  abandonment,  after  the  Peace  of  Paris  (17»)3). 
Large  Indian  settlements  formerly  occupied  the  intervales  in  this  vicinity, 
and  as  early  jus  lOTf)  envoys  of  Massachusetts  came  here  to  detach  the 
tri))e  from  King  Pliiliji's  Confederation,  —  an  unsuccessful  attempt. 

Station,  V/aterville  (two  inns),  a  place  of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants, 
near  the  Ticonic  Falls  on  the  Kennebec  River.  The  village  is  built  along 
randding  streets  on  a  broad  plain  above  the  river,  and  has  some  handsome 
residences.  Near  the  station  are  the  buildings  of  Colby  University 
(founded  in  1820),  which  has  C  instructors  and  52  students,  with  a  library 
of  6  -  8,000  volumes.  This  institution  is  under  the  care  of  the  Baptist 
Chiirch,  and  besides  the  usual  oarrackdike  dormitories  of  American 
colleges  it  has  two  handsome  new  stone  buildings.  On  one  side  is  the 
new  granite  Scientilic  Departmeni,  while  the  other  wing  of  the  line  is 
occupied  by  a  tine  stone  Iniilding  with  a  tower.  The  lower  part  of  this 
editice  is  occupied  by  the  library,  while  the  upper  part  is  consecrated  as 
a  Memorial  Hall.  On  one  side  of  this  hall  is  a  lino  monument  by  Mil- 
niore,  representing  a  colossal  dead  V  ■.,  "anstixed  by  a  spear,  with  an 
agonized  face,  and  with  his  paw  restii;g  on  the  slucld  of  the  Union  (an 
a<la])tation  of  Thorwaldseu's  Lion  at  Lucerne).  Below  this  large  and 
beautiful  Avork  is  a  tablet  (also  of  marble)  containing  tlie  names  of  20 
former  stu<lents  who  fell  in  the  War  for  the  Union,  with  the  inscription, 

"  Fratrilms  rtiani  in  cineribu-i  c;iri>  quoruin  noiniiia  intra  inrisa  sunt,  qniquf 
ill  ncllo  rivili  ]m)  n'ii>nl>!i(;c  inteKritatc  ((-'cidLTUiit,  liane  Tabulam  posuenmt 
iiluniiii."    T)n»  Mfniori.il  Ilnll  is  to  no  dccoratod  witli  pictures. 

A  l>ranch  railniiul  runs  from  VVaterville  to  Skowhegiiii  (sec  Route  42),  and  at 
tliis  jioiiit  the  ]>c\vist<iu  division  of  tlie  .Maine  Central  Railway  (Route  40)  unites 
witii  the  present  route  (tlic  Aii^nsta  Division.)  8t.aj;es  run  hence  to  many  rural 
villages. 

In  running  from  Waterville  to  Bangor  the  train  passes  Kendall's  Mills, 
or  Ju'irfUhl,  Station,  and  soon  after  the  track  of  the  Skowhegari  Division 
turns  oflf  to  the  1.,  and  the  present  route  (Bangor  Division)  crosses  the 
Kennebec  on  a  liigh  bridge.     Stations,  Clinton  and  Jinrnhnvi. 

Vrmv.  Bunihaiu  tiic  Relf.ist  P'vfsiou  of  tiio  Maine  Central  Railway  runs  S.E.  lo 
the  lity  of  PilfuM  (.sec  Route  4>),  in  '.^b  M.  ]iassin;4  throuy;li  the  farming  towns  of 
Walilo  County,  Unity,  Tliorndike,  i<rool<s,  and  Waldo. 

Beyond  Burnliam  the  line  follows  tlie  Scbasticook  Kiver  to  the  .station, 
Pttlyh.hl  (Lanccy  House,  daily  stage  to  Palmyra,  IFartland,  St.  Albans, 
Ilarnnmy,  llipley,  an<{  '^'.indjvivlgt)  in  2u  M.,  fare  $  1.5'). )  Stations,  Detroit, 
and  Newport  (Shaw  Jh>os.  \,  a  prosperous  village  o'^  th  •  shores  of  Fiast 
Pond,  whicli  is  15  M.  antnn.d  and  alford.-'  .'oo.i  il:l.r,;.  The  Dexter 
Division  of  the  Maine  Ontral  Railway  runs  1^.  :o  L'r.vtev  (  e    i  ''utc  43). 


'mm& 


.>v-:k.;*>^'' 


BANGOR. 


R(nde47.    315 


sses  til  ft 
of  Fort 
e  rivers, 
ne  ooast 
arrisont'il 

\  vicinity, 
etacli  th'^- 

ipt. 

hal)itaiits, 
•uilt  along 
hanflsonie 
iniversity 
h  a  library 
the  Baptist 

American 
;  side  is  the 
the  line  is 
part  of  this 
isecrated  as 
lent  by  Mil- 
ar,  with  an 

Union  (an 

;  large  ami 
[names  of  20 

inscription, 

,  sunt,  quiqiie 
In  posuerunt 

jC  4-),  i^^^l  ^^ 
Ite  40)  miitos 
[()  many  rural 

klairs  Mills, 

tan  Division 

crosses  the 

iMUis  S.E.  i'» 
liiii'  towns  of 


[the  station, 

St.  Albans, 

)us,  Detroit, 

i,r.js  of  East 

rrhe  Dexter 

^tttc  43). 


To  the  S.  are  the  liigh  hills  of  Dixmont,  and  the  train  pas.ses  on  by 
£.  Neivport,  Etna,  t'armcl,  and  Hernwn  Pond  to 

Eangor. 

IIotelH. — "  Bangor  House,  on  the  heights,  §2.50-8.00  ;  Penobsrot  Exchange  ; 
Franklin  Huusf  ;  an<l  many  oflii^rs. 

Steamers  le.ivo  tri-wtM'kly  (dnring  the  season  of  navigation)  for  Portland  and 
Boston,  stopping  at  the  river-ports. 

Hallroads. — The  Maine  Central,  to  Portland  an<l  Boston,  240  M.  (by  Eastern 
R.  K.),  in  11  lirs.  The  Enroi.ean  and  North  American  li.  Fl.  to  St.  ./ohn, 'ioftj 
M.,  in  lOj-lO  hr.s.  (the  train  leaving  Bangor  early  in  the  morning  arrives  at  !St. 
John  about  0  P.  M.).  The  Bangor  and  Piseata(iuis  R.  R. ,to  Ciiiilt'onl,  Gl  M.,  in 
.^i-T)  hrs. 

Stages  run  to  Hampden,  Frankfort,  Prospect,  Stockton,  Scarsport,  and  Belfast 
(30  M.,  tare  S  2. r)0  ;  leaves  early,  in  the  morning) :  to  Monroe  ;  to  Ncwhurg,  Dix- 
mont. Troy,  Unity,  Albion,  ami  China  ;  to  Kxcter  ;  to  Kenduskeag,  Corinth,  ami 
Charleston  ;  to  (Jlcnburn,  Brownville,  and  Katahdin  Iron  Works  ;  to  Brewer, 
Eddington,  Clifton,  Amherst,  and  Aurora;  to  Orrington,  Bucksport,  Orlaiid, 
Penobscot,  and  Castine  ;  to  Ellsworth,  Cherrylield,  Maeluas,  and  Ejistport(r25  M., 
fare  §10,  leaves  every  evening). 

Bangor,  the  second  city  in  Maine,  and  the  secrnd  lumber-mart  in  the 
■world,  is  a  handsome  city  situated  on  commandhij^-  hills  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Peuob.scot  River.  It  is  about  GO  M.  fnmi  the  .sea,  aTid 
is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  deep  ravine  in  which  flow.s  the  Kendus- 
keag Stream.  The  business  part  of  the  eity  is  situated  on  the  level  land 
adjoining  tliis  stream  on  both  sides,  ami  has  many  nuissive  and  substantial 
commercial  buildings,  since  Bangor  is  the  trade-centre  for  a  larger  area  of 
country  than  is  fed  bj^  any  other  New  England  city.  It  contains  18,289 
inhabitants  (in  1800  it  had  277),  with  11  banks,  a  daily  and  2  weekly 
papers,  5  insurance  conipaiues,  5  Masonic  lodges,  43  schools,  and  14 
churches.  The  heights  on  either  side  of  the  Kenduskeag  are  lined  with 
well-shaded  streets,  and  have  many  handsome  residences,  wliile  there  are 
several  well-built  churches  in  the  same  localities.  The  Custom  House  and 
Post  Oflice,  on  the  Kendn.skeag  Bridge,  is  a  neat  granite  structure.  There 
are  240  men  engaged  in  iron-works  here,  and  loO  in  tlie  shoe-numufactiir- 
ing  trade,  besides  which  the  city  has  several  small  factories  and  ship- 
yards, with  a  lucrative  coasting  and  foreign  trade.  The  products  of  tln^ 
rich  alluvial  basin  of  the  Penobscot  are  handled  here,  althougli,  on  account 
of  the  severity  of  the  climate  in  this  higli  latitude,  but  a  small  portion  of 
the  valley  is  under  cultivation.  The  trilmtaries  of  the  Penol)scot  pene- 
trate the  great  Maine  Forest  in  every  direction,  and  b'ar  dov  uward  to 
Bangor  inmtense  quantities  of  lumber,  in  the  sawing  and  sliipment  of 
which  tlie  eity  llnds  its  cldef  industry.  The  booms  i!i  wliieh  the  descend- 
ing logs  .*re  cauglit  extend  for  miles  along  the  river,  and  a  great  number 
of  <,aw-mills  are  in  operation  along  the  sliores.  Up  to  lS.x'»,  2,l>y'J,847,2()l 
ft.  of  lumber  had  been  surveyed  at  Bangor;  between  18,VJ  aiiil  Ibtl'J, 
l,S6i>,%r>.4r>4  ft  of.  long  lumbei  were  siiipped  hence;  in  IStiS  alone, 
274,000,000  ft.  of  ;,liort  Ivimber  (cl;ij>bnar<ls,  laths,  and   shingles)  were 


H  i 


,•1 


310     HoHle./fS. 


BANGOR. 


lu  ■  ,' 


fr*  •      i 


shipped;  and  in  1872,  240,500,000  ft.  of  long  lumber  were  sunvyed  here. 
The  lumber  crop  of  1S72,  in  Maine,  was  abo>  700,000,000  ft.,  of  -which 
225,000,000  floated  down  the  Ppno1)soot,  an.  100,000,000  passed  down 
the  Kennebi'c.  To  transport  this  immense  amount  of  lumber  to  its  des- 
tined markets,  fleets  of  hundreds  of  vessels  romo  np  to  the  city,  where 
there  is  a  broad  exjianse  of  deejt  water  willi  tides  rising  over  10  ft. 

The  Tlieohnjical  tHcniinanj  w.'is  cliartered  by  the  State  of  Mass,  in  1814, 
and  is  uiider  the  care  of  the  Congregational  Church,  though  its  teaching 
is  non-sectarian  orthodoxy.  It  occupies  buildings  fronting  on  a  broad 
campus,  in  tlie  liighest  part  of  the  city,  and  has  5  professors,  40-50 
students,  and  altout  000  alumni,  with  a  library  of  13,000  volumes,  Xo- 
rumbega  JIall  is  on  the  Kenduskeag  ljridge,*and  pertains  to  the  city ;  its 
lower  ])ortion  being  used  as  a  market,  while  in  the  upper  hall  2,000 
I)ersons  can  be  seated. 

It  is  said  that  ('!i!Uii]il;)in  nscondcd  Vac  Penobscot  as  far  as  tlie  site  of  Hanpor, 
in  KiOS.  '|'li«  sritlt'iiiciit  was  made  hftwccn  170'.)  and  177'>,  and  in  17'.H  Kcv.  tSotli 
Nohlc,  its  n'pnst'Mtativc,  was  (inliT''d  liy  tlie  peoiiKi  to  liavc  it  ineoriM)rate<l  under 
llie  name  of  Sunlmry.  Mr.  Nuluti,  liowever,  was  very  loud  of  tlie  old  tune  of 
"  HauL'or,"  ami  (iierliaps  inailvcrtcntly)  had  that  nanu^  fzivcn  to  the  new  town.  In 
ISM  the  town  was  taken  by  a  British  "sqnadron,  after  the  destrnction  of  tlie'SFohn 
Adams"  ;  in  \K\'.\  it  Ix  i-;iin<i  a  cit^  ;  and  in  ls48  it  was  declared  a  port  of  entry. 
The '2(1  Maine  leginni  '  was  raised  in  IStii  around  IJanj^'or,  and  received  supeib 
colors  from  the  ladies  of  New  York,  Jjaltimore.  and  Han  Francisco.  Tlie  latter 
flaK  was  the  linest  m  the  army,  and  was  tlie  centre  (.fa  tcrrilic  lij^ht  at  Bull  Run, 
in  which  the  color-j^niards  were  all  kiJed,  and  the  oi^Misin;^'  re.uMnu'iit  (the  7tli 
Georgia)  was  "nearly  annihilated."  The  lla;.,^  was  not  lost,  and  tin'  re,<.,'iment  was 
the  last  on  the  lield.  At  (Jaines'  Mill  tliis  cnmmand  took  the  5th  Alabama  tlags, 
and  at  rreeleriekslmr},'  it  lost  i^  of  its  rank  and  li'.e. 

Glcnburn  (I'cirh  llousr)  is  10  M.  N.  of  JJanyor,  on  Pnsliaw  Pond,  which  ha.s 
considerable  local  fame  for  its  line  lishin,''. 


■a 

'■■  In 


48.  Boston  to  Bangor.    The  Penobscot  River. 

By  Sanford's  Indcjiendent  Line  of  steamers,  hsivin^'  Boston,  Monday,  T^ies- 
day,  Thursdav,  and  Fridav,  at  3  e.  m.  (time-table  of  1^7'J).  Boston  to  Rockland 
$2.00;   to  Banj,^)r,  i?:{.0(».  ' 

By  Route  .^7  or  ;?8  to  J'ortland,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Bangor  (PortL'uid  to 
Bangor,  S^.fjO) ;  or  by  R-  'tes  37  (or  38)  and  41  to  Rockland,  and  thence  mp  the 
river  by  steamer. 

In  calm  A.eatlicr  the  outside  route  is  very  pleasant.  The  steamer 
passes  down  Boston  Harbor  (see  page  20)  and  out  on  the  open  sea,  ap- 
proaching Cape  Ann  and  Thacher's  Island  (Route  30)  at  late  twilight. 
The  early  riser  next  morning  will  see  the  bold  shores  of  Monhegau  Island, 
far  out  in  the  ocean.  This  island  Avas  .settled  in  1018,  and  had  a  stirring 
liistory  for  more  than  a  ceidury,  but  now  lias  only  a  few  score  of  inhab- 
itants, mostly  engaged  in  the  deep-sea  ii.sheries,  or  wringing  .scanty  crop.s 
from  the  rugged  thousand  acres  on  the  bluffs.  The  steamer  now  pa.sses 
in  by  the  historic  ])eninsnlas  of  Knox  County,  leaves  Vinalhavou  on  the 
E.,  and  rounding  Owl's  Head,  readies  Rockland,  175  M.  from  Boston 
(see  Route  44).     The  Tuesday  and  Friday  steamers  here  connect  closely 


iTt'yed  here. 
rt,,  of  ■wliicli 
passed  down 
r  to  its  (k's- 

city,  where 
1<)  ft. 

ass.  in  181  i, 
its  teaching 
on  a  broad 
isors,  40-50 
unies.  JS"'-)- 
tlie  city;  its 

hall  2,000 


c.  nf  rJancjor, 
<\n  Kcv.  «oth 
'I  •rated  nnfl(>r 
i)ld  tunc  of 
uwtcwn.     In 

nf  tl,i'"J,,lni 

01 1  of  entry. 
I'ived  supeib 
.  The  latter 
ntlinll  Rnn. 
•■lit  (tlie  7tli 
'e,i,'iineiit  was 
abama  Hags, 

,  which  has 


jr. 

>nday,  Tties- 
;o  Roekland 

Portland  to 
mee  up  the 

le  steamer 
en  sea,  ap- 
3  twiliglit. 
fan  Island, 
a  siining 
of  inhab- 
anty  cro|»H 
low  passes 
eii  on  the 
m  Boston 
ct  closely 


Jil'lLFAHT. 


^"'<t>'4S.     'Ml 


"*^-     ^  J'"!?  coasted   by  this  nl...      •     \  .  ^"^  ''''^'''^   the  British   of 

enintrv   fi.Ji     <•  -^       '"^  Jdace  m  l*  0'{    o,.  i  "'uisji   at 

It  i.as  '.  ;;,    "'^  "■■7'^.  »nrt  several  c„„„,;U.,    ,,''"!  '"  "'>'  ""'-"■, 

'-^astinc  is  sepu  -f* 

(^'-•sti^eron  the  B  't)  rbolf',  "^'"'^  '''^^  ^•'■^^^^•^^  P^mnsul,  of  p    . 

in  M^<    i^   r.  '     ^  '>oi'i  shore  of  P,n-/  o  •  .  •        '-"''^  <^t  Fentatroet 

^  "■^'""S  »'"'  '■""ling),  ,,,K|  t|,„ 


mmmm 


If 


\(^-.  ■' 


^i  ■■■ ! 


;l    ■ 


318    Jioule  40. 


OLDTOWN. 


river  seems  to  end,  so  rapidly  does  it  contract.  As  tlie  swift  tides  of 
Buck  trt  Narrows  are  entered,  a  sudden  turn  reveals  the  bright  village 
of  Bucksport  (/?"/>/ /i.90H  House;  Jiirertiide  J/onse),  a  shipbuilding  and 
fishing  pla<*e  with  '^,4-VA  inhaltitants.  This  town  was  settled  by  Col. 
IJuek,  of  Haverliill,  in  17<51,  and  now  has  two  lianks,  a  custom  house, 
several  churches,  and  a  lucrative  county  trade.  On  the  hill  above  the 
village  is  the  E.  Maine  Conference  Scininary,  a  Methodist  School  with 
{j-'lOO  students,  from  whose  lawn  beautiful  river-views  are  afforded.  On 
the  blulf  opposite  Piucksjiort  is  Fort  Knox,  an  immense  and  costly  forti- 
ii(;ation  lately  built  by  the  U.  S.,  which  completely  commands  the  river 
with  itn  heavy  batteries. 

StaROs  rini  frnm  Bncksixirt  to  Mt.  Desert  (see  Route  4')),  in  aliout  dO  M.,  jiass- 
iiiy  tlu-oiigli  KUsworth  {A)ncricuu  House),  a  city  of  5,200  inhiibitants,  the  capi- 
tal of  Hancock  County. 

The  river  now  grows  more  narrow  and  picturesquely  sinuous,  while 
vessels  arefrerjuently  jiassed.  Winterport  (Commercial  House)  is  reached 
5  M.  above  Hiu'ks])(  rt,  after  passing  Mt.  Waldo  and  the  granite-producing 
shores  of  Fi-ankfort  on  the  W.  7  M.  beyond,  the  steamer  stops  at  Jlanq)- 
ilen  (Penobscot  House),  where  the  U.  S.  corvette  "John  Adams,"  24,  was 
attacked  (while  refitting)  in  1814  by  a  small  British  fleet,  Capt.  Morris, 
of  the  "Adams,"  had  armed  shore-batteries  with  |ils  sliip's  guns,  but  the 
badly  olllcered  rural  mililia  were  speedily  louted  by  a  bayonet-charge  of 
the  liritish  rcL'idars.  Morris  then  sjiiked  his  guns,  lih"v  uj)  his  ship,  and 
relreati'd  willi  llic  sailors  to  Maiigor.  The  British  plundered  and  overran 
Uanipih'ii  for  B  days.  Soon  after  leaving  Iliinipden,  the  steamer  reaches 
(about  noon)  tito  elty  of  llangor  (see  Uoute  47). 


J 


U 


Ik 

p. 


if 

n 


49.  Bangor  to  St.  John. 


By  the  Ftiropeaii  and  North  Aiul'rican  I{iiil\v;iy,  'Jo.'iJ  M.  lassengcfs  on  the 
tlirough  train  iioni  Boston  (l^-  Routes  87  and  47)  make  their  first  and  only  ehaiige 
of  cars  here. 

Seats  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car  afford  views  of  the  river,  After  leaving 
Bangor,  the  train  passes  Venzif  and  other  stations,  with  the  river  cov«fr<^l 
with  booms  and  immense  rafts  of  timber,  and  lined  with  saw-njills.  H'a- 
tions,  Onnio  (the  seat  of  the  State  Agricultural  Colieg*),  and  O'ldtown 
(two  inns),  a  place  of  about  4,000  inhabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  the 
lumber  business.  The  inmiense  and  costly  booms  and  mills  should  be 
noticetl  here.  Oldtowu  has  the  largest  limiber-mill  in  the  world,  where 
loo  .saws  are  at  work  turning  the  rude  logs  which  come  in  at  one  side  into 
planks,  which  are  rafted  away  to  Bangor.  On  an  island  near  the  village 
(ferry-boat  on  the  shore)  is  the  home  of  the  Tarratine  ln<lians,  one  of  the 
three  tribes  of  the  Etchemin  nation.  Though  the  most  powerful  and  war- 
like of  the  northern  tribes,  the  Tarratines  rarely  attacked  the  colonists. 


^t  tides  of 
i^lit  village 
liMing  and 
L'd  by  Col. 
oni  house, 
above  the 
chool  with 
)rdcd.  On 
ostly  forti- 
i  the  river 


no  M.,  i)a«s- 
:3,  the  capi- 


ous,  Avhile 
i  is  ri'ached 
-producing 
at  J/itinp- 
s,"  21,  was 
)t.  Morris, 
IS,  but  the 
charge  of 
i  ship,  and 
id  mciran 
er  reaches 


i6-f»  op  the 
inly  (Itmgn 


fliEDKiaCToY 


After  a  series  of  wrongs  „,  .  ^^'^'^^4iJ.     310 

tJ'^^t  Maine    '.  '    '/-T    '""'^'*"'  «"^-''   t.-nif  1,  '  ""^>' '-^^tackod  the 

«^>-yi".  !•  m^"^/"''"'^'>' ^°  them  ',- th        .    ""Tl'^""^  '°-  of  lin^ 

-'•  their  prasent  re  ;?'  '"''''     '^^'"  ^'-atv  o      7^    o.^-     'f '"'  ^''^>'  ^«- 
iV'nob.cot    u  a  ,         """  '''^^'  the  State      '1'],:  "';'"  ''""  '^•"••^tance 

I/--//-     7  '^  ""e  crosses  Hin  n      i 

Sta-o.s  run  froi  ,     ;       ,  •  tlirou-h  tlio  f,,n,.  *  '"^  wilder- 

"'■"M  S,=l,„„,,i„  LaK.  „™  "i""'-""  "■■  D,.„f„,,|,,  ,,,  ,  J        ■    /'"^i'O.nt, 
<r.»»  crosses  tl,.  «.^        ""'or,  and  »o,„,  «ft,.,.  ,       .■""'''""■'>  I'as  goal 

A.4<.^z  w„  ™'^  "■'■'  -"--^  t,;;  it  i,  r:;%''"\r""«^  "« 


[■►     ; 


k 


>  'I 


f\ 


:J2()   yi'(y<//./  .f'>. 


ST.   JuHN. 


stiition)  is  wortliy  of  notice.  *  Christ  Church  Cathedral  *  t^jii.scopal)  in 
one  of  the  liiicst  on  the  cotitiniMjt,  though  small.  It  is  of  frray  stone,  in 
Kngli.sh  Gotliir.  unliittitiire,  ami  lias  a  stone  spiie,  178  ft.  liigh,  rising 
from  tilt' junction  ol  the  nave  ami  transepts.  The  interior  is  })('a\itiful, 
ami  the  ehancel  has  a  superb  winilow  of  Newcastle  stained  glass,  pre- 
senteil  by  the  Episc(i))ul  clnircli  in  the  United  States.  In  the  centre  is 
Christ  erueilie(l,  witli  SS.  .JcIim,  tiames,  and  Peter  on  the  I.,  ajid  SS. 
'i'lionuis,  l'liili]t,  and  Andrew  on  the  v.  Iii  the  church  tower  is  a  chime 
of  8  bells,  each  in.scribed, 


"  Ave,  Tntpr.  Rcx.CroHtor, 
Ave,  I'ili,  l.iiv.  Sulvatiir, 
Ave  S|>lritiis  (..'onsDlntdr, 
A\c  litutii  I'liituii. 


Avo,  Simplex,  Av«>.  Trine, 
Av<',  Kc^Miun.s  ill  Suliliiiii', 
Ave  lit'Hoiu't  sine  tliic 
Avf  .Suncta  Trinitaf." 


The  St.  John  River. 

■W'lieu  there  is  \vat<'r  eii()iij:h  in  tlii'  river,  steamers  aseeml  tlie  St.  .iolm  River  to 
W()(i(lst()c'l\,  0-'  -M.  N.  W.,  ai.il  near  Ibniittin.  ■'^ti-ainers  leave  freilorictdu  tur  St. 
.lolin  at  8  A.  M.,  arriving  lliere  at  :i  v.  m.  I  istariee,  alxmt  WS}.  ;  laic,  '<1..')0. 
'Die  steaiiiiis  inn  (miy  on  'I'liesday,  Thiiisilay,  aiid  Sutunhij  (iu  167"J),  leaving  St. 
.Jolin  the  alternate  <tays,  at  S  a.  .m. 

As  the  steamer  jjasses  into  the  .-itreani,  a  beautiful  view  of  the  capital 
city,  with  its  Cathedral  and  University,  is  obtained.  On  the  ojipo.site 
sliore  is  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak  Ki\er,  where  stood  a  fort  which  was 
a  centre  of  siege  2i>0  years  ago.  11  M.  bchjw,  the  village  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Oromocto  Uiver  is  ])a.ssed,  and  Ihelofty  s]>ireof  Hui'ton  church  is  .soon 
alter  seen  on  the  r.  Tlie  boat  stojis  at  Sheffield,  v>ith  its  large  academy, 
and  pa.sses  iMaugeiville,  which  was  settled  by  l^ostonians  in  17<K).  Ciage- 
town  is  next  seen,  on  u  bluff  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  Uiver,  and 
in  a  rich  I'arming  country.  Numerous  islands  are  ]iassed,  and  broad  in- 
tervales stretch  back  fiom  the  shores.  The  steaiaer  soon  enters  the  Long 
Keach,  which  is  followed  for  20  M.,  jiasshig  the  mouth  of  the  Nerepis 
Uiver,  with  it.s  fortified  ])oint,  abamloned  for  two  centuries.  At  Grand 
Day  the  scenery  grows  nobler,  and  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis 
lUvcr  opens  to  the  K.  Avitli  fine  eflect.  A  narrow  channel  between  pic- 
ture.S(pie  palisades  is  now  entered,  and  followed  on  swift  waters,  until  a 
glimpse  of  the  Suspension  Bridge  is  gained  on  the  r.  as  the  steamer  roujidii 
to  her  pier  at  ludiantown,  a  suburb  of 

St.  John. 

Hotels.  ■-''Victoria  Hotel,  noo  f;uests,  .S.'i.OO  (Canadian)  a  day;  Rothesay 
House  ;  IJarues  Hou^u  ;  Waverly  House  :  Auiericau  Hou.se. 

Carriages. — -i^^-.  a  course  in  the  city  ;  25e.  each  half-hour.  Horse-Cars  to 
Imliaiitown,  fare  5r. 

Knilway-i.— To  Fivdericton,  Bangor,  and  Boston  ;  to  Woodstock,  Houlton, 
a!id  St.  .Xiidnws  ;  to  Sliedjae,  Halifax,  and  Windsor. 

Steamers. — To  Kastport,  Portland,  and  Boston  ;  to  Digby  and  Annapolis  ;  to 
Va)  mouth  and  Shelburue  ;  to  Halifax  ;  to  Frederictou  and  Woodstock. 


1. 


s  A  M,; 

:it  b  V.  \ 


[liscopal)  iii 
y  stone,  in 
tiigh,  rising 
beautiful, 
glass,  pro- 
e  centre  is 
1.,  and  SS. 
is  a  chime 


ne, 

iif, 

I." 


lin  Rivpr  to 

it(in  tor  St. 

Ill  It',  s  1.50. 

leaving  St. 


lie  capital 
i  oj)i)osite 
ivhicli  was 
mouth  of 
ch  is  soon 
academy, 
'•>.  Oage- 
tUver,  and 
Ijroad  in- 
the  Long 
-'  Nerepis 
it  Grand 
nehecasis 
veen  pic- 
s,  until  a 
erroujids 


Rothesay 
se-Cars  to 

Houlton, 
ipolia  :  to 


■'•'"^-  ■^•'^^v-  „„,,,„,„,^  ,^^^^^^^^^^ 


"'"  ■-"'■.■ace  of  ,„l  m    ^T  •"''''"■"™  ""'1  "nio'T     "'''  '"■""'  «'" 

-;«i^i.w.,„„,  a,   r^v::,  ";!"■■■ '•■■"'■'  '-■";'■'  ;'';:■:■■"'''  -  '"«^ 

*^nan,  and  i  r<  '      ^-^tJioJic,  .,  i>.,,  ,.  ,    .   ">  '"  -'v  visit.     'n,,._ 

"""lu«si„,|,„ ""-'"'li  >vitl,  a  ht,v  s„/n.         ,       """''i'"»'Ml'l.  81 

^  ''lace,  and  some  mnv    .  "V     '  ''•     ^'''-ii-  the  Cuu    ,    ,       ""'  '"''o"-  in 
«™.  Whence  a  fie  w":-:f  "":'■'■     ^^ U.i    vi        ';'' '»  ',!'»  "'-'.op, 

wafer,  and  a/l„,,i,'\.       ^'■"'«'' '■'  WO  fe  1  °?    V?  ^'"ffe  ■<>  the 

;'"""»'  w  »:.';,.:„;::;:'■ "-  '^'^  ■'■"...■riiH  ;tr;;  "•.'"-'•" '-' 

rtimarkahle  sf.ri.f    <-      ^    '^  nancw  goive      Af  i  •  ,  ^''*'  ^'^^'^'''  «la,she« 

I''-om  the  Lun.ti     A  '^"-''   ^^^^  gorc^J  r,,      *''"  ^'^^"^  ^^  the  Bay 

^^^''■^'J^ts,  a  pZ         ''■.^""''  «'•  from  rhe   U       if'T  t'"'   "ver  level 

'^'--'  near  the  Bay^''  ''''''''  ^^  ^-■-.     The  mIu^^'^^'  7;-^'^  Purple 

Jn  1630  Clm-u'^TjTA^  -'""J  "uiaed  the  Sf    t  . 

»t(aekin>,  ir*    ,  "'"''.v  i"   Kiri    (  ,.     •     ^"'"'.    'in-Jt  ;i /v,.?  i  •^'- -^"'"rs  Dav   ifln. 


""■I  n^Auim.":,    "'«,.».'■"«,„  ,;,',  "*.'':'■"<■  to  St.,,,,,  „.?i'  ".!-"'•  '»'«■•  in 


;'''^"iate  for  a  '   ,  f  ""  ^^'■'*  fort     it    J  ,      ''  ^•""' '"arno.l,,."''  '^''^''^n  a   f,.  J 
r'^'aye.    I„  1,'s'o  «!;';•';.'•''«  <J^'.sti-o;v'l      't'V"'l''''''^""  ^^•i-'^  est.l  l^'p','-'^''-  •■""1  'left 

•^t.  J<,i,„,  ea.oo  ;  Port  ,,;  i  '  '"^f'^-^'and 


«,, 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

MEB'TER.N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  872-4303 


^^i.-^ 

M^^ 


.s  i 


?,22    Boute  50. 


ST.    ANDREW. 


i| 


■I: 
♦  ■ 


11'! ' 


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^  »)^» 


stages  leave  Bangor  every  evening  for  Eustport,  wliicli  is  125  M.  distant,  via 
Ellsworth  and  Machias.     Fare,  ig  10. OU. 

"EtiStporti*  Pa.'!Sf'mf'q'io(l(h/  Jloi/.te)  is  the.  const  1»f)rdc'r-to\vn,  and  has 

3,738  iuhal)itants.     It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  hilly  island  in  Passama- 

qiioddy  Bay,  and  is  commanded  liy  Fort  Sullivan,  a  garrisoned  post  of  the 

U.  S,     The  hay  ahounds  in  i)icturesque  islands,  tiie  chief  of  which   is 

Campo  Bello,  (opposite  Eastport  and  withm  the  Canadian  horders.     This 

island  is  often  visited  in  summer,  and  has  much  fine  ocean  scenery.     To 

the  S.  is  Quoddy  Head  and  the  Canadian  islan<l  of  Grand  Menan  (1,800 

inhabitants),  22  M.  long  and  3-6  M.  wide,  with  its  western  shore  lined 

hy  frowning  cliffs  3  -  400  ft.  liigh. 

Eastport  was  settled  in  1780,  and  was  captured  and  fortified  by  a  British  fleet 
in  1814.  It  wan  the  hirthplace  of  Henry  I'rince,  C.  II.  Smith,  and  N.  J.  T.  Dana, 
able  national  generals  during  tlui  Secession  War.  The  Gtli  Maint!  Infantry  gathered 
here  in  1801,  and  then  moved  away  to  Virginia,  where  it  was  engaged  in  10  pitched 
battles,  and  lost  over  1500  men  by  death. 

Stages  and  st^-ameis  run  80  M.  N.  W.  from  Eastport  to  Calais.  The 
steamer  moves  ouu  across  the  broad  and  island-studded  bay,  passing  on 
the  1.  Pleasant  Point  (in  Perry),  the  home  of  the  400  remaining  members 
of  the  Openango  tribe  of  the  Etchemin  nation  of  Indians.  The  first  stop- 
ping-place is  St.  Andrew  (with  a  large  new  hotel  accommodating  300 
guests),  a  decadent  maritmie  provincial  town  (3,000  inhabitants),  plea.^-antly 
.situated  on  a  long  promontory,  and  having  line  facilities  for  bc/thing,  boat- 
ing, aUvi  fishing.  St.  Andrew  is  the  shire-town  of  Charlotte  County,  N.  B., 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  N.  B.  and  Canada  RailWcay.  Beyond  this  port  the 
bay  naivows  rapidly,  and  Xeiitral  Island  (with  its  lighthouse)  is  i)assed, 
opposite  Rcbbinston.  Henri  IV.  of  France  granted  Acadia  (an  iuvlofinite 
district,  embracing  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brun.swick,  and  as  much  more  as 
he  could  get)  to  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in  1G02.  In  1G04  the  grantee  brought 
over  a  colony  (mostly  of  Huguenots)  and  settled  on  this  island,  which 
lie  fortified  strongly.  During  the  mournful  winter  of  1604-5,  36  out  of 
70  of  the  colonists  died,  either  from  scurvy,  or  from  drinking  water 
l)oisoncd  by  the  Indians.  Remains  of  De  IMonts'  fort  may  be  seen  on  the 
island  (which  belongs  to  the  U.  S.).  Pohhinston  village  is  now  touched  at, 
and  then  the  steamer  passes  up  by  Oak  Point  and  Devil's  Head  to  Calais 
(International  Hotel ;  St.  Croix  Exchan<jr).  This  is  a  city  of  about  6,000 
inhabitants,  with  2  banks,  2  weekly  papers,  and  G  churches.  It  was 
founded  in  1789,  and  has  a  huge  shii)l'uilding  and  lumber  business. 

A  railway  runs  20  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Lewoy's  Island  (in  Princeton  ;  two 
inns),  whence  the  iMcturescpio  Schoodic  Lakes  may  lu-  entered.  The  steamer 
"Gipsey"  runst^irri'gularly,  for  lumboiing  work)  on  I.ewey's,  Big,  and  Long  Lakes, 
There  is  a  large  villag'  of  Passamafiuoddy  Indians  on  one  of  these  lakes,  and 
hunting  and  lishing  parties  from  the  coast  cities  often  pass  the  sunimer  here, 
roughing  it  in  canoes  and  in  the  forest. 

Mail-stf)ges  run  from  Calais  to  Eastport  ;  also  (daily)  through  the  vast  and  des- 
olat.'  forest  to  Daiijior,  '.*j  M.  W.  ;  fare,  t7  50;  also  (from  Princeton)  to  Honllon. 


i    ! 


istant,  via 

,  and  has 
Passama- 
ost  of  the 
which  is 
ers.     This 
merv.     To 
nan'a,800 

ihore  lined 


r 


I 


British  fleet 

J   T.  Dana. 

Itry  gathered 

ill  10  pitcliea 

Calais.     The 

,  passing  ou 

iiig  luenihers 

he  first  stop- 

uodating  300 

s),  pleasantly 
.thing,  ■':>oat- 

|"ounty,N.  B., 

.this  port  the 

;e)  is  passed, 
(an  indefinite 
uch  more  as 
anteehrought 
island,  which 
5,  36  out  of 
•inking  water 
jc  seen  on  the 
|w  touched  at,    ^ 
ad  to  Calais 
,f  about  6,000 
;lies.     It  was 
siness. 

^'rinooton  ;  twi) 
'I'lie  Bteainer 
lid  Loii;,^  Lakes 
lose  Ul^cs,  ami  , 
suuiuiev  Ueri', 

.-  vast  and  dcs 
L)  to  UoulU'i' 


WOODSTOCK. 


Route  50.     323 


A  covered  bridgo  leads  from  Calais  to  St.  Stephen  (  Walker  You.^e),  a 
Ijriglit  an(1  active  town  of  over  5,000  inhabitants.  The  citizens  of  Calais 
and  of  St.  Stepheti  have  ever  lived  in  perfect  fraternity,  and  formed  and 
kept  an  agreement  by  whicli  they  refrained  from  mutual  hostility  during 
the  War  of  1812. 

From  this  point  the  N.  B.  and  Canada  Railway  runs  W.  tlirongh  the 
forest  (crossing  Route  49  at  McAdam  Junction)  to  hehe.c,  74  M.  distant, 
whence  a  branch  road  runs  (in  11  M.)  to  Woodstock,  the  shire-town  of 
Carleton  County,  N.  B.  This  town  has  4,000  iidiabitants,  and  is  pleas- 
antly situated  ou  the  St.  John  River,  loO  M.  from  its  mouth.  Stages  run 
through  Tol)i([ue  to  Grand  Falls,  where  the  river  is  contracted  into  a 
narrow  gorge  between  lofty  clilVs,  and  plunges  over  a  succession  of  rocky 
steps,  the  f'rst  leap  being  40  ft.  perjiendieular.  Tri-weekly  stages  run 
from  this  point  through  the  French  settlements  at  Ma<lawaska,  to  Riviere 
du  Loup,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  (see  Route  56). 

From  Debec  a  branch  railr(/.iil  runs  N.  W.  8  M.  to  Hculton  {Snell 
House  ;  Buzzell  Ifause),  the  shire-town  of  Aroostook  County,  Maine,  with 
a  populate  n  of  2,851,  2  weekly  papers,  and  5  churches,  lloultoii  is  456 
M.  (by  railway)  from  Boston,  and  has  stage-ioutes  running  to  all  parts  of 
N.  E.  Maine. 


Presque  Isle  (small  hotel)  is  a  forest  village,  with  nearly  1,000  inhab- 
itants, a  weekly  paper  (the  "  Pres(|ue  Isle  Sunrise  "),  4  cliurohes,  and  an 
academy.  This  is  one  of  the  centres  of  the  rich  farming  lands  of  Aroos- 
took County,  which  cover  over  500,000  acres,  and  are  b^'ing  taken  up 
rapiilly  by  settlers,  induced  by  their  variety,  fertility,  and  cheapness. 
Two  fine  national  roads  cross  this  district,  —  the  Aroostook,  from  Matta- 
wamkeag  to  Fort  Kent,  and  the  Military  Road  through  IJoulton  to  Van 
Buren.  Many  Swedes  are  settling  here,  while  Madawaska  is  a  populous 
French  district. 

Stages  riM)  from  Presque  IsU;  to  Houlton,  Waslibiini,  ami  Dalton  ;  the  latter 
roa:l  jiassiim  W.  by  the  Al'a;,'asii  Mts.  to  tht;  l/ike  of  Sfvcii  Isles,  a  little  al>'>v»5 
the  head  of  t^w-hoat  navigation  on  the  St.  John  River  an<l  over  80  M.  from  Dal- 
ton. This  road  jiasses  through  the  heart  of  the  great  forest.  "The  jiriineval 
woods  of  Maine  still  cover  an  extent  seven  times  that  of  tlu;  famous  Black  Forest 
of  (iennany  at  its  l;irge'!t  expanse  in  modern  times.  The  States  of  1{.  I.,  tjonii., 
ami  Delaware  could  l»e  lost  together  in  our  northern  foiests,  and  still  have  uhout 
each  a  inarL^in  of  wilderness  sudiiieutly  wide  to  make  the  exploration  without  a 
compass  a  work  of  desperate  adventure." 

Fort  Fairheld  (small  hotel)  is  on  the  froidier,  on  t]\e  road  running  F  from 
I'resque  Isle  to  Tobique  (N.  B.)  ou  the  St.  John  River.  It  has  nearly  :i,U0O  in- 
habitants, with  5  c'liurches. 

Stages  run  on  the  Military  Roivd,  to  Fort  Kent,  84  M.  N.  W.  of  Prescpie 


\t, 


321    Houte  50. 


MADAWASKA. 


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Isle.  This  route  crosses  and  follows  the  Aroostook  River  to  Chriliou,  ai;cl 
then  runs  for  20  M.  through  the  forest  to  Von  Buren  (two  inns),  a  senii- 
F/ench  settlement  (1,000  inhal»itants)  on  the  St.  John,  and  near  the 
Grand  Falls.  The  road  now  turns  N.  W.  and  follows  the  St.  John  15  M. 
to  Grant  Isle,  a  French  village,  10  M.  Vtcyond  which  is  Madawaska 
(Fournier's  inn),  a  village  belonging  to  a  large  district  which  has  long 
been  iidiabited  by  Acadian  French,  who  were  exi)elled  from  Nova  Scotia 
{Acadic)  in  1755.  There  are  several  thousand  of  these  Catholic  and 
"pious  Acadian  peasants,"  divided  into  4  i»arishes,  and  here  the  tourist 
may  perhajis  lind  an  "  Evangeline."  (The  poem  has  been  translateil  into 
Canadian  Freiu-li,  and  isjtopular. )  Madawaska  and  the  Eagle  Lakes  lie 
S.  of  this  village,  which  is  100  M.  N.  of  Iloulton.  20  M.  beyond  (the 
stage  following  the  St.  John  River,  and  passing  tiirough  Dionne),  Fort 
Kent,  with  its  two  inns  and  ruined  blockdiouse,  is  reached.  The  popida- 
tion  is  still  French,  and  20  M.  W.  is  >St.  Francis,  anothci'  Acadian  village. 
(Stages  run  occasionally. ) 

Fort  Kent  is  194  M.  from  Bangor,  and  440  M.  from  Boston. 


■'1  L  ' 


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,  > 


NEW  YORK  CITY  TO  THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

Having  described  New  England  and  her  eastern  frontier  in  the  50  pre- 
ceding routes,  it  has  been  thought  advisable  to  add  thereto  a  brief  survey 
of  those  most  interesting  regions  which  lie  on  the  west  and  north  of  her 
borders.  The  tourist  might  easily  ari'ange  a  profitable  and  pleasant  sum- 
mer-trip, by  taking  either  of  the  Routes,  3,  8,  19,  or  21,  to  New  York, 
thence  ascending  the  Hudson  to  Albany,  and  passing  to  Montreal  by  way 
of  Saratoga  and  Lakes  George  and  Champlain,  whence  Quebec  and  the 
Saguenay  are  easily  reached  ;  and  the  return  to  Boston  could  be  effected  by 
either  of  the  Routes,  24  (and  25)  or  40  (and  37  or  38.) 


V  < 


Route  51.  New  York  City  and  its  Environs. 

52.  New  York  to  Albany.    The  Hudson  River. 

53.  Albany  to  Montreal.    Saratoga  and  Lake  George. 

54.  montrkvl  and  its  environs. 

55.  ]\Iontreal  to  Quebec.    The  St,  Lawrence  River. 

56.  Quebec.    The  Saguenay  River. 


;'  n 


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ffected  by 


George. 


NEW  YORK   CITY. 


Route  51.     325 


51.  New  York  City. 

Arrival. — The  railway-station  (Boston  lino)  is  on  4th  Ave.,  cornor  of  A-hX 
St.  Horse-cars  run  tlienre  down  4tli  Ave.  to  Union  Si|U;i'e,  ami  tliroiii,'h  liio 
Bowery  to  tlie  City  Hall  Park  and  A.stor  House.  The  piers  of  the  three  steam- 
hoiit  lines  arc  on  the  Hudson  lliver. 

Hotels. —  The  *  I-'itth  Avetnie,  on  .'Sfadi.son  Square  (8-000  gue.sts),  a  vast  and 
superb  ni;irl)le  liuilding  ;  th'3  *  St.  Nicholas,  on  Broailway,  cnniiT  of  Sprinj,'  !St.,  a 
marble  buihlin;,' in  the  Corinthian  order,  six  stories  hi,i,di.cost  ••:;  1,000, ooo,  and  circi 
for  1,000  j^uests  ;  the  *  Metropolitan,  on  Broadway,  conuT  of  I'rince,  is  of  brown- 
stone,  si.x  stories  high,  and  cost  nearly  .s  l,00(j,0i)O  ;  iW  *(irand  Central,  on  Broad- 
way between  Amity  and  Bleei  ker  Sts.,  eight  stories  high,  of  marble,  and  accom- 
modating 1,. 500  guests  ;  llolinian  House,  on  Madison  .Scpiare,  an  aristocratic  liousc, 
cari.ig  for  'M>0  guests  ;  Crainercy  Park  House,  on  (Iramercy  Park,  an  immense 
family  hotel,  with  room  for  (3-SOO  guests;  (irand  Hotel,  corner  Broadway  and 
81st  St.,  an  elegant  lirst-(dass  house.  These  inmicnse  hotels  arc  amply  snpplic  I 
with  all  the  luxuries  of  modern  American  civilization.  Their  charges  are  fniin 
$14.00  to  iJ.^.OO  a  day,  with  considerable  reduetions  in  case  of  a  long  sojoin-n. 
There  iuo  .several  llrst-class  hottds  on  Union  Scpiarc  :  the  FiVerett(FAiropean  plan) ; 
the  Clarendon,  patronized  ))y  Knglish  tonrists  ;  the  Union  S'luare  ;  the  .Spitighr  ; 
the  Union  Place,  &(■.  The  New  York  Hotel,  7-1  Broailway,  is  a  resort  for 
Southern  visitors  ;  the  Preseott  House,  'SM  Broadway,  aeeommodates  .'iOO  guesU 
and  is  much  freiiuented  by  foreign  tourists  ;  so  is  also  the  jialatial  St.  Deiii-* 
Hotel,  on  Broailway  ojiposite  (irace  Cliurcli.  The  St.  Cloud  (corner  of  Broadway 
and  4iid  St.)  is  the  iiest  ni)-town  hotel  ;  the  Gilsey  IIous(!  (Broadway  and  'J'.itli  Si.) 
and  the  St.  James  (U.roadway  and  'iCith  St.)  are  also  line  hotels  above  Madison 
Square.  The  Men!  ints'.  National,  and  Western  are  on  Cortlandt  St.,  in  tint 
lower  part  of  the  i  ity,  and  are  patronized  by  l)usiness  men.  The  'Astor  House, 
(on  Broadway,  opposite  the  Post  Office)  is  kept  on  the  Em'ope.an  plan,  as  are  also 
the  Brandreth  (corner  of  Broadway  arid  Canal  St.),  the  Westminster  (eorimr 
Irving  Plaee  and  Kith  St.),  the  Belvidere  (Irving  Plaee  and  lOth  St.),  the  Irviii.; 
(Broadway  and  12th  St.),  the  Brevoort  ("jth  Ave.  and  Sth  St.),  the  Albemarle,  &(•. 
French's,  Leggett's,  Sweeny's,  and  the  Cosmopolitan  are  near  the  City  Il.dl  I'ark. 
Rooms  may  be  obtained  at  the  European  plan  hotels  for  from  .•j'l  to  .•?:$  a  day, 
with  meals  ala  carte  within  the  house  or  elsewhere.  For  a  tourist  who  is  to 
make  but  a  short  visit  to  New  York  these  houses  will  be  found  more  commodious 
and  less  expensive  then  those  on  the  American  jilan.  There  an;  aliout  140  other 
hotels  in  the  city,  several  of  which  are  first-class.  The  Stevens  House  is  on  Bro.id- 
way  near  the  Battery;  and  the  Grand  Union,  opposite  the  Grand  Central  depot 
(4'2d  St.)  is  conveniently  situated  for  passengers  arriving  by  late  trains  from  New 
England  or  the  North. 

Restaurants.  —  *Delmonico'.s,  corner  .1th  Ave.  and  14th  St.,  the  best  in 
America  (with  branch  establishments  down  town,  at  the  corner  of  Broadway  ai;d 
Chambers  St.,  and  on  Broad  St.  near  Wall) ;  Parker's  on  Broadway  ne;u-  ;!4t!i  St.. 
is  frequented  by  ladies;  also  Bigot's,  on  i4th  St.,  near  Broadway;  Geyer's,  7:>i 
and  736  Broadway,  is  a  large  and  favorite  restaurant ;  Solari,  corner  of  Uni\'cr.;ity 
Place  and  Uth  St.,  prepares  elaborate  late  dinners.  lauch  (8(34  Broadway)  and 
Bergman  (1,121  Broadway)  keep  ladies'  restaurants,  which  are  much  frequented  ; 
Arnaud  (815  Broadway)  is  famous  for  tine  French  candies;  and  Purssell's  ('.dO 
Broadway)  is  a  favorite  lunch-saloon  for  the  up-town  ladies.  At  3'J  Park  Row, 
and  at  Leggett's  Hotel  arc  large  eating-houses  for  down-town  merchants. 

The  cafes  and  restaurants  atta(!hed  to  the  large  hotels  on  tiie  European  plan  aio 
generally  well  kept,  and  arc  much  visited  by  ladies.  The  Astor  House  lias  ono 
of  the  best  of  these.  Gystcrs  may  be  found  in  every  variety  in  the  small  saloons 
in  Fulton  Market.  Maillard's  ((i21  Bn.adway)  is  famous  for  line  confectionery 
and  chocolate.  New  England  dishes  are  served  at  Peai-son's,  on  Cortlandt  near 
Greenwich  St. 

Consuls.  —  English,  17  Broadway  ;  German,  117  Broadway  ;  French,  4  Bowling 
Green  ;  Italian,  7  Broadway  ;  Austrian,  .H3  Broadway ;  Russian,  52  Exchanga 
Phce  ;  Swedish,  18  Exchange  Place  ;  Spanish,  20  Broadway  ;  Swiss,  23  John  St. 

Tleaciing  Rooms.  —  In  all  the  chief  hotels(for  guests) ;  Y.  M.  C.  Associatiioi, 
comer  23d  St.  and  4th  Ave.,  also  at  285  Hudson  St.,  473  Grand  St.,  and  2ii5 


326     lioutc  51. 


NEW  YOIIK  CITY. 


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Bleecker  St.  Astor  Library,  l/ifayette  Place,  opon  OJ-T);  City  Library,  City 
Hall,  open  free  to  all,  10-4;  *  Cooper  Union,  rnrncr  7tli  Ht.  and '4th  Ave'.,  opeii 
from  8  A.  M.  to  10  k  m.  ;  Woman's  Library,  uittjn  'J-4(.^L50a  year)  ;  N.  Y.  His- 
torical iSncifty,  corner  11th  St.  and  2(1.  Ave. 

Post  Office)  corner  of  Cedar  and  Nassnn  Sts.,  open  continuously  except 
iSinidays,  wlien  it  is  only  open  between  0  and  11  a.  .m.  ,  eij,'ht  deliveries  of  letters 
daily  ;  tlie  Hastcrn  mails  close  at  5  A.  m.,  l.l^O  v.  M.,  and  (>  p.  m. 

CarriageH.  —  For  nnv  ]ias.senj,'er  for  a  distance  of  1  M.  or  less,  r>Oc.  ;  two 
passen^^ers,  70c.  ;  for  one  passenj^'cr  for  more  tiian  1  and  less  than  2  M.,75  c.  ;  and 
for  eacii  additional  jiasscnj^er,  '.17^  <'.  ;  "  us(^  of  a  hack.iey  coach  or  carriage  by  the 
day,  witli  1  or  nmre  j>assen;,'ers.  .^o.OO";  by  tiie  hour,  stoiipin;,'  as  often  as  re- 
quired, $1.00.  iS'o  extra  charge  is  allowed  for  one  trunk  or  box  ;  children  between 
2  and  14  years  of  a^'e  jiay  half-i>rice.  A  tarifl' of  fares  is  (or  should  be)  himg  in 
each  carriage,  but  tii(!  drivers  iVe(|ueMtly  attempt  to  extoiL  undue  sums  from  their 
l»assengers.  hi  sucli  cases,  since  the  hacknien  of  New  York  are  the  most  ruf- 
tianly  of  tiieii-  class  in  the  worhl,  an  instant  aiii)eal  should  be  made  to  the  first 
policeman  who  may  be  seen. 

Omnibuses  (ea lied  "stages")  run  (I)  from  Fulton  Ferry,  by  Broadway, 
University  I'laec,  l;5tli,  and  5th  Ave.,  to  42d  St..  returning  over  the  same  route; 
(2)  from  South  Ferry,  >)y  Hroa.'vay,  23d.  and  Otli  Ave.,  to  :50th  St.,  returning  the 
same  way  ;  (.!)  from  South  Ferr\ ,  by  Ih-oadway  and  4th  Ave.,  to  32d  St.  ;  (4)  from 
South  Ferry,  by  Broadway  ano  l.th  St.  to  Avenue  A.  ;  {j)from  South  Ferry,  by 
Broadway,  to  the  ImIo  H.  R.  ferry  on  23d  St.  ;  (G)  from  Wall  St.  Ferry,  by  Wall", 
Broadway,  23d,  and  Madison  Ave.,  to  40th  St.  ;  (7)  from  Jersey  City  Ferry  (Cort- 
landt  St.)  by  Broadway,  Bleecker  St.,  Bowery,  and  2d.  St,  to  Houston  St.  Ferry. 
The  fare  on  these  lines  is  10  c. 

Horse-Cars.  —  The  fare  on  most  ol  the  lines  is  5c.  (1)  Park  Place  to 
Central  Park,  by  Church  anl  (ir<'i  iie  Sts.  ;.nd  7th  Ave.  ;  (2)  Astor  House  (Vesey 
St.)  to  Central  Park,  by  West  Broadway,  Varick  St.,  ami  (itli  Ave.  ;  (3)  Astor 
House  to  Central  Park,  by  Canal,  Hudson,  and  8th  Ave.  ;  (4)  Astor  House  to 
Grand  Central  Depot  and  Harlem,  by  Park  How,  Chatham  St.,  Bowery,  and  3d 
Ave.  ;  (•'))  Astor  House  to  Hunter's  Point  Ferry,  by  Park  Row.  Centre,  Grand, 
Bowery,  4th  Ave.,  32d  and  34th  Sts.  ;  {(i)  Astor  House  to  34th  St.  Ferry,  by 
Chatham  St.,  East  Broadway,  Avenues  B.  and  A.,  and  1st.  Ave.  ;  (7)  Astor 
House  to  Stith  St.,  by  Centre,  Bowery,  4th  and  Madison  Aves.  ;  (8)  corner 
Broadway  and  Canal  St.  to  43d  St.,  by  Varick  St.  and  Cth  Ave.  ;  {!•)  corner 
Broadway  ami  Canal  St.  to  Central  Park,  by  Canal,  Hudson,  and  8th  Ave.  ;  (10) 
corner  Broadway  and  Ann  St.  through  Chatham,  East  Broadway,  Avenues  B. 
and  A.  ;  (11)  corner  Broadway  an<l  ]5roome  to  Central  Park,  by  7th  Ave.  ;  (12) 
corner  Bmailwav  and  Ftdton  to  u4th  St.,  bv  Greenwich  St.  and  Otli  Ave.  ;  (13) 
Peck  Slip  to  Harlem  (128th  St.),  by  Oliver  St.,  Bowery,  and  2<1  Ave.  ;  (14)  South 
Feny  to  Central  l*ark,  by  West  St.  and  lOth  Ave.  ;  (U>)  South  Ftnry  to  Central 
Park,  by  the  East  River  F'erries,  1st  Ave.,  and  59th  St.  ;  (10)  Fulton  Ferry 
through  Centre  and  Bleecker  Sts.  to  10th  Ave.  ;  (17)  Grand  St.  Ferry  to  Des- 
brosses  St.  F'erry,  by  <  J  rand  and  Vestry  Sts.  ;  (IS)  Granu  St.  Ferry  to  Cortlandt 
St.  Ferry;  (10)  Grand  St.  Ferry  to  4'2d  St.  (Weehawken)  FVrry  ;  (20)  corner 
Cliambers  and  West  Sts.  to  42d  St.  Dcpnt.  The  Elevated  liailvay  rims  from 
!Morris  St.,  on  Greenwich  Stand  Otii  Ave.  to  .'iOth  St.  The  track  is  sui>])orted 
by  iron  pillars  ;  the  cars  are  drawn  by  small  locomotives;  and  the  stations  are 
at  Morris.  Dey,  Canal,  and  12tli  Sts. 

Ferries. — To  Astoria,  from  '.i2d  St.,  and  from  Peck  Slip;  to  Blackwell'd 
Island,  from  2Gth  St.  ;  to  Brooklyn,  from  Whitehall,  Wall,  Fulton,  Roosevelt, 
Catharine,  Grand.  Jackson,  Houston,  and  James  Sts.  ;  to  Governor's  and  Bedloe's 
Islands,  from  Pier  43,  N.  R.  to  (Jrcenpoint.  from  lOth  and  from  2.".d  Sts.  ;  to 
Hunter's  Point,  from  James  Slip  and  fmm  20th  St.  ;  to  Randall's  Island,  from  2()th 
and  from  122d  Sts.  ;  to  Wards  Island,  from  llutli  St..  ,  to  Jersey  City,  from 
Cortlandt,  Desbrosses,  Cluunbers,  and  23(1  Sts.  ;  to  Hoboken.  from  Barclay  and 
Christoi>her  Sts.  ;  to  Weeliawken,  fnjm  42d  St.  ;  to  Staten  Island,  from  White- 
hall St.,  and  iVoni  Pier  19,  N.  U. 

Theatres.  —  The  Grand  Opera  House  (corner  of  8th  Ave.  and  23d  St.)  is  an 
elegant  mai'ble  building,  which  is  chieliy  used  for  dramatic  representations  ;  the 
*  Acjidemy  of  Music  (,!>:»  E.  14th  St.)  is  the  favorite  home  of  the  opera  ;  Theatre 
FrauQais  (107  W.  14th  St.),  often  used  also  for  English  opera,  and  for  dress  balls, 
in  winter  ;  *  Booth's  Theatre  (corner  of  6th  Ave.  an(l  23d  St.),  devoted  to  Shakes- 


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NEW  YORK   CITY. 


noitfrSl.     327 


p<>arp's  plftys  and  otliors  of  h\^\\  firivh'  ;  Niblo's  Onnlcii  (JJiDnilway,  iionr  Trlncfl 
?>t.")  aci'oiiiiinMlatcs '-',000  inTsnns  ;  \VaIl,i>k*s  (|{r'ia<l\v,i,v,  ctiraor  of  i;uh  St.)  Ih  a 
lavniitf  H'sait  fur  lovers  of  lt>,'itiiiiatc  loiiH'iJy;  I'iuh  Avor;"  r7-S  ami  730 
JJroaihvay)  ami  tlic  Union  Siiiiaif(lth  Ave.  ami  1  Uh  St.)  aro  Hiiiall  hut  ••li'^^fint. 
nuil  I'lsliioiiabic  tlicatrcs  ;  the  OlyMij'ic  (tJJJ  liroadway),  tin*  t'oiniiiuf  (.»14  liroa'i- 
way),  aii'l  others,  arc  dcvotoil  to  varii-tii-.s  ami  comii'  ^cenoii.  Wood's  Mnspitm 
((•inner  of  Uroailway  ami  itotli  St.)  ^.,'ivt's  ilr.uuatir  iior:oniiam't\s  ;  and  sfii.sational 
trav'PclicH  ami  spfctacifs  arc  iilaycil  in  the  Hiiwcry  Tlicitn!  (Miwcry,  near  Canal 
St.),  The  Statlt  Tiiiatre  (:i7  M  >\V(  ry)  is  devoted  to  tii-rni  ui  iday.s  and  ojieras  ;  and 
Tony  I*a.stor'.s  Oju'ia  IIon.si'(-'>l  IJnwiTy)  j^'ive.s  popnlir  varictieH  and  si>ccta' le.s. 
iJry.int's  Minstnl.-;  (1 1')  W.  '2  id  St.)  ;.,'ivi'  m';,'ro  nnjodics,  danres.  A:c.  'I'licr*;  arc 
liiinierou.H  weil-arran^'i'd  (icrnian  liecr  u'ardens  in  tlie  city,  wliere  innsic  and  dan- 
cing me  jfiven.  'I'lie  (,'eidral  I'arU  (Janleii  all'nrds  tin^  l>esl  of  orehestral  music,  and 
is  a  favorite  .suniinnr  evenin.^'  re.sortof  the  up-tuwn  faniiiies.  The  Atlantic  (iarden^ 
(m\t  to  the  Howery  Tiicalre)  has  line  music,  hut  is  cliidly  visited  by  (iernians. ' 
The  ctdlir  concert-salnons  on  Ihoailway  ami  elsewhere  sliould  he  avoiiled,  for  they 
nre  (for  tiie  most  i);irt)  lioth  liisrcput.ililc  ami  dan,.;erous.  I^ccturcs  and  concerts 
arc  tre(|uetitly  K'^'"'"  hi  Association,  ('oop(!r  Institiit",  Apollo,  and  Irvint,'  flails. 
Classic  music,  oratorios,  and  concerts  are  p'"eral!y  given  in  Steinway  Hall  (14th 
St.,  near  l!road\vay). 

Itntlroads.  —  Acro.ss  Staten  Island  to  Tottcnville,  I'jcr  1,  E.  R.  ;  to  Phila- 
dclphi  I,  hy  Trenton  ('••()  .M.)  from  loot  of  t.'ortlamlt  St.  ;  by  S.  Ambny  (<>-2  M.) ;  to 
Eastoii,  Pa.,  from  foot  of  liibcrty  St.  ;  to  (Ireenport,  Lon;.^  Island  (foot  of  James 
St.);  to  Flusliin;^  ;  to  Ilackettstov,  a  ;  to  Lon^  Ih  inch  ;  to  .\lliany(14t  M."),  sta- 
tion corner  of  ;i()th  St.  and  lotli  Ave.  ;  to  Albany  (by  the  Harlem  11.  R.),  from  thfl 
42d  St.  slation  ;  to  New  Haven  and  IJoston,  from  the  corner  of  4th  Ave.  and  42d 
St.    The  Krie  Railway  (ferry)  stations  are  at  the  foot  of  Chambers  ami  of  2.U\  St. 

SteaniirH  —Tr'nu.itlnntic  linr^  for  Liverpool,  the  White  Star  and  Cunard 
Lines,  Tiers  at  Jersey  City  ;  Inman  Line,  Pier  4'),  N.  II.  ;  U.  S.  Mail  Line,  Pier 
40;  Natiiii.al  Line,  Piers  41  ami  47,  X.  R.  ;  for  Liverpool  and  Glasgow,  Anchor 
Line,  Piei  20,  N.  R.  ;  for  London,  Piers  44  and  47,  and  :\,  N.  R.  ;  for  Havre,  Pier 
fjO,  X.  R.  ;  for  Hambaiji  and  Hremeii,  Piers  at  llolioken  ;  for  Antwerp  ;  for  the 
Meiliterranean  ports,  ll'r.^t  Ind'nm  linaa  —  for  Havana,  Atlantic  Mail  Line,  Pier 
4,  N.  R.  ;  for  Havana  and  Vera  Cruz,  Pier  17,  K.  R.  ;  tor  Hayti,  Nassau,  and  the 
Bermudas.  For  St.  Tliomas  and  Brazil  (monthly),  Pier  Hi,  N.  R.  ;  h>r  St.  Domin- 
go and  Saniana  Bay.  For  Panama  and  San  Franiis(;o(semi-nionthly),  Pier  42,  N. 
R.  The  Anvricnn  const  —for  Kt  y  West  and  Galvestcm  (tri-monthly).  Pier  20,  E. 
R.  ;  for  New  Orleans  (:i  Aveekly  steamers).  Piers  ',)  and  1-'.  N.  R.,  and  20,  E.  R.  ; 
for  Fernandina,  Pier  2'.',  N.  R.  ;  for  Savannah  (two  weekly  steamers),  Piers  L'Jand 
36,  N.  R.  ;  for  Charleston  (thrice  weekly).  Piers  h  and  S,  N.  R.  ;  for  Newbern  (tri- 
monthly).  Pier  .'6,  E.  R.  ;  for  Norfolk  anil  Richmond  (tri-weekly).  Pier  .'J?,  N.  R.  ; 
for  Washington  and  Alexandria  (semi-weekly),  Pier  20,  E.  K.  ;  for  Philadelphia 
(tri-weeklv).  Piers  ',V.\  and  \\\,  E.  R.  ;  for  New  Bidfonl  (semi-weeklv).  Pier  ln,  E. 
R.  ;  for  Boston  (outside).  Pier  H,  N.  R.  ;  for  Portland  (semi-weekly).  Pier  38,  E.  R. 

CmMirine  and  river  linei^ — to  Yonkers,  Tarrytown,  West  i'oint,  Newbur^', 
Ponghkeepsie,  Hudson,  Albany,  and  Troy,  from  Pier  MO,  N.  R.  (morning  boat), 
and  from  Pier  4L  N.  R.  (evening  boat)  ;  other  river-steamers  are  at  Piei-s  40,  ;}5, 
34,  Til,  and  43  ;  to  ElizabethiKU't  and   Kill   Von  Kull,  from  Pier  14,  N.  R.  (thrico 

daily);  to  Staten   Island  (North  Shore)  hourly,  from  Pier  10,  N.  R. (South 

Shore),  from  Whitehall;  to  Elizabethport  and  Perth  Ainboy,  from  Pier  20;  to 
Long  Branch,  from  Pier  35  ;  to  Sandy  Hook,  from  Pier  28  ;  to  Newark,  from  Pier 
20  ;  to  S.  Amboy,  from  Pier  1,  N.  R.  ;  to  Astoria  ami  Harlem,  12  times  dailv,  from 
Pier  24,  E.  R.  (Peck  Slip)  ;  to  Bay  Ridge,  from  Pier  l:>.  E.  R.,  0  times  daily;  to 
Great  Neek,  Glen  Cove,  Roslyn,  ainl  Whitestone,  from  I'ier  24,  E.  R.  ;  to  College 
Point  and  Flushing,  from  Pier  22,  E.  R.  ;  to  lIuntiii;,;ton  and  U.vster  Bay,  from 
Pier  37,  E.  R.  ;  to  Greenport  and  Orient,  from  Pier  4,  N.  R.  ;  to  High  Bridge  and 
Kingsbridge,  from  Harlem  Bridge  ;  to  Morrisaiiia,  from  Pier  22,  E.  R.  ;  to  Sag 
Harbor,  from  Pier  4,  N.  R.  Steamers  leave  for  GreiMiwich  and  Stamford  from 
Pier  37,  E.  R.  ;  for  Norwalk.  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.  ;  for  Bridgeport,  from  Pier  35, 
E.  R.  :  for  Stratford  and  Milford,  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.  ;  for  New  Haven,  from  Pier 
25,  E.  R.  (afternoon  and  evening);  for  Hartford  and  the  Conn.  River  ports,  from 
Pier  24,  E.  R.  :  for  New  London  (and  Boston),  from  Pier  40,  N.  R.  ;  for  Stoning- 
ton  (and  Bo.ston).  from  Pier  33.  N.  R.  ;  for  Newport,  Fall  River  (and  Boston), 
from  Pier  28,  N.  R.  ;  for  Providence,  from  Pier  27,  N.  R. 


/ 


328    Route  51. 


NEW   YORK   CITY. 


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New  York  City,  tlie  commercial  inetroi)oli,s  uT  the  UnitoU  States  and 
the  chief  city  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  is  situaieil  on  Munlmttari 
IhUukI,  at  tlio  mouth  of  tlic  Hudsdu  Itivcr,  in  lalittide  -lo' -lo*  4.T' N., 
and  longitude  3'  1'  VA"  E.  from  Washington.  The  popni.ition  of  llie  city 
In  1S70  was  02<),3n.  Tlie  ishiiid  is  I'JJ  M.  long,  juid  1  -'J  M.  wide  (con- 
taining *22  sfiuare  M.),  and  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Hudson  River, 
on  tlu!  E.  by  the  East  River,  on  the  N.  by  Harhni  River  and  Simyten 
Dnyvil  Creek,  while  ils  S.  end  looks  out  on  llie  Ray  of  New  York,  'i'he 
lower  jiart  of  the  islanil  consists  of  alluvial  deposits,  l»ut  low,  rocky  ridges 
are  fouml  in  the  central  l>'irt,  which  ascend  to  tlie  clilfs  of  Washington 
Heights  on  the  N.  The  city  extends  for  5-0  M.  N,  from  the  Battery, 
and  the  district  above  the  densely  settled  streets  is  studded  with  villas, 
public  and  charitable  buildiJigs,  an<l  market-gardens.  The  grand  avenue 
called  Broadway  luns  from  the  lower  end  of  the  island  to  the  Central 
Park,  beyond  which  th»(  broad  and  costly  lioidcvard  conducts  to  tlie  N, 
end.  The  city  is  In  id  out  somewhat  irregularly  from  the  i-attery  to  14th 
St.  (2i  M.),  but  beyond  that  line  a  succession  of  straight,  i>arallel  streets 
extend  from  river  to  river,  and  are  crossed  at  ri'.;ht  angles  by  broad  ave- 
nues runidng  lengthwise  of  the  island.  The  Bay  of  New  York  is  one  of 
the  most  ])icture.s(pit!  in  the  world,  and  all'ords  a  safe  anchorage  for  the 
largest  commercial  tleets  and  the  great  vessels  of  the;  V.  .ropean  steamship- 
lines.  The  iimer  harbor  is  enterc(l  through  a  deej)  strait  called  the  Nar- 
rows, which  is  defended  by  the  most  powerful  anil  imiiosing  fortifications 
and  arniamenls  in  iho  Western  worhl. 

The  site ()♦■  New  York  was  discovered  by  tlie  Florentine  iii.iriiier,  Verrnzzani,  in 
the  year  ir)J4.  Tlic  harbor  was  again  visittil  hy  llfiidrick  Hudson,  coiinuaiidiiiK 
ft  vessel  of  the  Dutch  Kast  India  (.'oniiiany  (Sept.  .'{,  HiO'.i),  and  lioni  the  scene  of 
wa.ssail  and  iniTrinieiit  whicii  f<ilIow<><;  the  meeting  of  the  .sailoi-s  and  the  natives, 
the  Indians  named  tlic  island  Mardiattan  ("  the  idace  where  they  all  got  driudc  "). 
Hudson  then  ascended  the  river  since  named  in  his  honor  to  ihe  site  of  Albany, 
and  claimed  the  land,  by  right  of  discovery,  as  an  apjianage  of  Holland,  under 
the  name  of  the  New  Netherlan<ls.  In  Kil-i  a  Dutch  colony  came  over,  and  built 
4  houses  ami  a  fort  I'near  the  i)res('nt  Dowling  (Jreen),  naming  the  place  New  Am 
sterdam,  in  honor  of  that  city  which  had  taken  the  foremost  jmit  in  the  eider- 
Itrise.  In  1()(>4,  Peter  Sluyve.saiit  being  (.;a)itain-lieneral  and  the  place  having 
about  1,800  inhabitants.  King  Charles  II.  of  Englan(' granted  all  the  land  from  the 
Connecticut  to  the  Delaware  Hiver  to  his  brother,  the  Duke  <if  York,  and  an 
English  fleet  under  Capt.  Nichols  caiitureil  New  Amsterdam  and  named  it  New 
York.  A  Dutch  fleet  retook  the  place  in  1073  (the  iRij-idation  being  about  2,500), 
but  it  was  soon  restored  to  England  by  treaty.  Gov.  Hir  Edmund  Andros  was 
ousted  by  the  peopl(>  (a  few  years  later),  and  .Facob  Loisler  took  his  place,  and 
ruled  amid  the  trials  and  terrors  of  bitter  political  struggles  and  sanguinary  in- 
vasions from  Canada.  In  17<i(»  tlie  city  had  about  0,000  iidiabitants  ;  in  170-J  the 
first  free  grannnar  school  wasopeneil  ;  in  1711  a  slav-market  was  ojiened  in  Wall 
St.  ;  ill  1725  the  AVw  I'ocA;  ^'(fcc<^f  was  established  ;  and  in  17:i2  a  chis.sical  academy 
was  founded.  The  commerce  of  the  city  increased  rapidly,  and  its  merchants 
took  a  bold  and  decided  stand  against  the  unjust  aggressions  of  Parliament.  The 
American  army  under  Washington  occui>ied  the  city  in  1770,  but  the  British  troo]is 
who  had  abandoned  Boston  landed  on  Long  Island,  and  after  a  severe  battle  near 
Brooklyn,  Washington  was  forced  to  retreat.  Other  actions  at  White  Plains  an^l 
King's  Bridge  resulted  in  great  damage  to  the  Americans,  and  New  York  was  lett 
in  the  hands  of  the  British,  who  occupied  it  for  seven  years.     Part  of  the  city  wa^ 


NEW    VOKK   (  ITV 


Rnulf  r,f.     320 


i 
i 


burnt,  part  of  it  wt«  turned  into  Imrrm-kM,  hoxpitnU,  nml  pri  ions,  nml  thoii«nn<l.^ 
of  Americans  wen'  conllned  on  (l<>atini{  hulks  in  ttif  Kiist  Uivfr.  Nov.  Zfi,  IT^ii, 
tlip  British  left,  and  WftshinKtoiiimd  thf(5ovcninr  of  flu- State  cntrrcfl  in  triuinpli, 
Tlio  MrHt  Ffderiil  Conjjn'ss  met  Ikto,  nnd  here,  in  17X1',  Wn«hiii;^ton  wiw  iimuKU- 
rat«'<i  Pn-sidiMit  (tilt-  rity  tlim  liaviiu  M.S.OOi)  inhabitants  ;  in  iso'i  it  liad  (H,4hi)). 
Thoilrst  stfainiT  was  |iut  fin  tiic  Iliidsnii  in  IS07,  and  thf  Kru'  Canal  was  rim\- 
pletcil  in  1SJ5,  ami  '  nplcndid  ( •iidiratiniH  in  thf  lity  and  Staff,  (la.-*  was  intro- 
din'oi'  in  l^'I')  ;  in  ISltJ  tho  Asiatic  chol*  ra  i  airicd  olf  i,:i«i:»  persons  ;  in  l,s;ij  a 
jjrfat  Mn-  dt'stroyed  ."«  20,0(io,(»0()  wortii  of  iirnpcrfy  ;  and  in  is:i7  tiie  ^rcat  llnan<'ial 
crisi.s  niiin'd  thousands.  Tin'  Croton  Ai|Ucduit  was  tvinipletnl  in  1K12,  and  a 
flit'  in  l.si,''»  caused  a  li>ss  of  ^T.Oiio.noo.  Tiie  city  lias  >;rown  rapidly  Hinco  tho  in- 
1  induction  of  tlie  railway  system,  and  the  most  remoti*  parts  of  the  .States  am 
reached  by  Its  immcnso  lines  f>f  track.  Scores  of  oce.in-steaniers  and  Meets  of 
packet-sliips  lirin^i  in  tlu;  jiroducts  of  all  otiier  continents,  and  bear  away  full 
car^^'oes  of  Vt'esfern  ^,'rain,  or  the  nianufaclures  of  tlie  Middle  and  K.isteru  Slates. 
In  IS-JO  New  York  had  li';t,7ot{  inhabitants;  in  ISJO.  :UJ,710  ,  in  isr>0,  RliJ.cno  ; 
ami  in  l.S7(),  (fjci,:;!!.  'riierc  .ire  but  two  larK'er  cities  (l^ondori  .ind  Pari.")  in  Chris- 
tendom, and  if  tiic  iiopidation  of  tho  closedyini^  suburbs  of  IJn  oklyn,  Willianis- 
bur^,  and  .Jersey  City  wore  added  to  that  of  New  York,  it  would  be  the  Hixth  city 
in  the  worlil. 

Tae  Battery  in  ;i  ]>!iik  .at  the  H,  cud  of  Manh.ntt.in  Tsliuid,  cnntaitiing 
10.^  acMX-s,  and  .idonicd  with  largo  trees  and  verdant  lawns.  The  water- 
front is  pecnrod  l>va  sea-wall  of  massive  inasonrv,  above  which  is  a  bro.ad 
j)roTneiiade  which  afVords  a<lniir.iblo  *  views  of  tho  TJay.  The  popidoius 
heights  of  Rrool<lyii  are  in  the  E.,  witli  riovcnior's  Island  nearer  at  hand, 
on  which  tho  high  walls  of  Castle  William  are  seen,  with  the  onih.ank- 
nients  of  the  less  iini';)sing  hut  more  i)owerfnl  Fort  rolumhus,  u  star-fort 
monntiiig  120  heavy  eannon.  Ellis  and  Dedloe's  Islands  .are  sov.n  farther 
down  the  harhor,  with  tho  long  hill-ranges  of  Statcn  Isl.and  beyond,  nnd 
Jersey  City  on  the  \V  The  cnrious  round  strui  turc  on  the  Battcrj'  was 
built  for  a  fort  ("  Ca.stle  Clinton  "\  in  1807,  was  e-ded  to  the  city  in  1823, 
and  was  the  scene  of  the  civic  rL\,.i)Ui)ns  of  the  Maniuis  Lafayette,  Gen. 
Jack.son,  President  Tyler,  and  oiliers.  It  then  became  an  opcra-hou.se, 
where  Jenny  Lind,  Sontag^,  Parodi,  .Tnllien,  Mario,  kc,  m.adt!  their  .aj)pear- 
ance.  The  building  is  now  tised  as  a  depot  for  immigrants,  who  are  here 
received  from  their  ships,  and  from  which  they  are  sent  to  their  desti- 
nations. From  Whitehall,  on  the  E.  of  the  Battery,  tho  Staten- Island, 
South,  and  Hamilton  (Brooklyn)  ferry-boats  start,  besides  several  horse- 
car  and  stage  lines.  Boatmen  maybe  cngageil  here  for  trips  in  the  harbor. 
From  this  point  South  St.  follows  the  East  River  shore  for  over  2  M., 
pas.shig  the  ferries  to  the  Long  Island  cities,  and  the  piers  at  which  lie 
Imndreds  of  stately  packet  and  clipper  ships,  and  humbler  coasting-craft. 
Sowling  Green,  the  cradle  of  New  York,  is  Just  N.  of  the  Battery.  Near 
by,  Fort  Atnsterdam  was  built  in  1635,  and  in  1770  an  e(piestrian  statue 
of  King  George  III.  (of  gilded  lead)  was  set  up  on  the  Green.  In  177G  the 
statue  was  overthrown  by  the  people,  and  taken  to  Litchfield,  Conn., 
where  it  was  melted  into  (42,000)  bullets.  West  St.  runs  N.  along  the 
Hudson  River  shore  for  over  2  M.  from  the  Battery,  passing  the  ])iers  of 
hundreds  of  steamers  and  the  ferries  to  the  New  Jersev  .shore.     The  liousu 


?>^0   noufc  r>!. 


NKW  YORK   CITY 


\*l 


N«>.  1  nroa(lw.»y  was  built  in  17<)0,  nud  has  .survod  us  tlic  bead  ((uartcrs  of 
Lord  Howe,  Uen,  Clinton,  Lord  Connvallis,  aid  Cmu.  Wasiiiugton.  Tul- 
loynind  onco  lived  i:;  this  liouso,  and  Fulton  ili»'(l  iilon;;sidi',  it.  Benedict 
Arnold  lived  at  No.  5  Rro.it'way,  and  Gen.  (la^e  lu'id  liis  head  quarters  at 
No.  11.  A  short  dist.'uu-o  ahove  Iho  CJrecn  is  *  Trinity  Church,  a  nolije 
Gothic  bu!  linf:  of  lirown  stone,  witli  asjiire  tiS4  It.  hij-di.  Tlio  interior  is 
1I>'2  ft.  ion(»  ami  OO  ft.  hiudi,  witli  a  decj)  eliancd  lij^hted  by  a  Hnpcrb 
window,  and  with  massive  eoluiniis  s^'parating  the  nave  fn>n»  the  aisles. 
The  elmreh  is  oj)en  all  the  week,  and  \he  ascent  of  the  spire  (H08  steps  ; 
small  fee  to  the  sexton)  fhould  be  made  for  the  sake  of.  the  *  view  froid 
the  to)>.  To  the  S.  is  tin-  nolde  liarbor  with  its  (loets  and  fortified  islands 
and  the  fair  villages  of  Staten  Island  in  the  distance;  to  t lie  W..  across  tiia 
Hudson,  arc  tiersey  City,  Newark,  J'erf;en,  and  Kli/alicth;  and  U}>-river 
fniJU  Jersey  City  ar<'  lloboken  and  Weehawken,  with  the  J'alisadcs  and 
the  distant  blue  Highlands  in  the  N.  The  thronj^'ed  and  brilliant  Broad- 
way runs  N.  E.  for  2  M.  to  Grace  Church,  and  tiie  ^'r<'al  mass  of  the  city 
is  seen  on  either  hand  ;  while  tlu;  course  of  East  Kiver  may  be  followed 
from  abtne  Hlacuwell's  Isl.-iinl  l)y  Flushing,  Astoria,  and  Greenpoint-,  to 
Brooklyn  and  Greenwood.  Directly  below  is  tlie  crowded  Wall  St.,  along 
whose  line  ran  the  wallj  of  New  Amsterdam.  There  is  a  large  and  ven- 
erable graveyard  about  the  churcl:,  in  which  are  buried  Alexander 
ILiniiltr'i,  Ca)U.  Lawrence  (of  the  Cln'sapejikc).  and  other  noted  men, 
while  in  one  corner  is  a  stati-Jy  Gothic  monument  to  the  i)atriots  who  died 
in  the  British  priso:i-sliii:s.  Trinity  Society  is  the  ohlest  in  New  York, 
and  the  first  edilice  on  the  jn-esent  site  was  built  in  IGUt).  In  1705  Queen 
Anr.e  gave  it  a  li'ie  comniuiU(Ui  servii;e  (still  ])reserved),  and  also  a  large 
tract  of  land  on  Manhattan  Island,  which  has  since  so  increased  in  value 
that  this  church  is  the  richest  in  America  ("^aid  to  l)-"  worth  over  $  10,0U0, 
000),  and  spends  inunense  sums  annually  iu  benefactions  r.aiong  the  poor 
of  New  York,  besides  supi)orting  a  considerable  body  of  clergy  and  a  choir 
wliich  is  unsurpassed  in  the  country.  There  are  morning  and  eveninoj 
prayers  daily  in  the  church  ^9  A.  M.  and  3  P.  M.),  with  impo.sing  choral 
services  on  Sunday.  The  clunie  of  bells  in  the  steeule  is  the  finest,  in 
America. 

Wall  St.  runs  E.  from  Trinity  (.  inuvh,  rnd  is  the  resort  of  bankers  and 
brokers,  and  tho  linancial  centre  of  the  republic.  At  No.  13  the  visitors, 
gallery  of  the  JStuck  Exchmiyc  may  be  entered,  and  at  about  noon  affords 
an  e.vciting  view  of  the  busy  whirl  below.  The  stately  U.  S.  Sub- 
Treasury  is  on  the  comer  of  Wall  and  Nassau,  on  the  site  of  the  hall  in 
which  Washington  was  inaugurated  first  President  of  the  U.  S.  (1789).  It 
is  built  in  partial  imitation  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  w^ith  Doric  colon- 
nades and  classic  pediment,  and  a  lofty  interior  rotunda,  supptnted  by 
16   eicganl   Corinthian  (olumns.     It  is  of  Massi'chusettd  marble  (with 


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NKW    YORK   rrTY 


liouieni.   r?3i 


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tors  tiiui 

|visitors, 

aiVorJs 

Sub- 

Ihall  in 

i9).     It 

coion- 

iiied  by 

(D^ath 


graiiltu  roof),  aiil  took  8  years  in  l)nil(>iiig,  costiii,'/  .?  2,000,000.  (Visitors 
.^!lInILt^Hl,  10-3  o'clock.)  Hroad  St.,  the  hoiiip  of  Hpcnilators  mul  brnktM's, 
IpadsnfTlo  tlie  S.  from  the  Treanury,  wliiU;  mnninr^  N.  is  the  busy  Nassau 
St.,  on  v.'Iiich  (two  sqiiaips  distant)  is  a  quaint  oM  edifice,  which  \va.H 
linilt,  1723- 0,  for  the  ^^d(lh^  Dutch  ( 'Iinti'h,  and  was  used  durini^  the 
devolution  as  a  prisr.ij  for  Americans,  and  a  ridijit,'-seliool  for  iWitish 
Cftvalryineii.  It  was  useii  as  a  elnirch  n,;;ain  from  1781  until  1Si4,  when  it 
was  botiLdit,  and  has  since  been  nsiid  for  a  jiostoflino.  Near  the  Treasury 
aretln-prtat  bankin^vliousrs  of  TIenry  Ch^ws  &  Co.,  Flsk  k.  Hatch,  Jay 
f'ookt!  k  Co.,  Duncan  k  SherinaM,  kc,  while  ojipositt!  the  Treasury  Is 
the  superb  Drexel  buildii.;.;  (l)uilt  in  the  Ueiiaissance  style  at  a  cost  of 
gi 700,000).  Still  farther  down  Wall  St.  is  the  U.  S.  Custom  House,  a 
massive  buildint^'  of  granite,  Tiiarl)le,  and  iron,  ori^^-inally  built  for  a 
Merchants'  Kxchan-,'e,  at  a  cost  of  .'$1,800,000.  ft  is  200  ft.  long,  and  has 
a  portico  of  18  Ionic  columns,  while  a  dome  121  ft.  hij^h  overarches  a 
rotunda  f^urrouiided  hy  8  rich  Corinthian  columns  of  Italian  marble,  and 
<!ai)ab|e  of  containing  .'{,(tOO  persons.  Tiie  elegant  Bank  of  New  York  is 
opposite  the  Custom  House,  and  just  below  is  Pearl  St.,  the  Rcene  of  a 
heavy  v/holesaie  tratle  in  cotton  and  other  staples.  A  ferry  runs  from  the 
foot  of  Wall  St.  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn,  lielurning  to  Broadway,  the 
immense  buihlings  of  the  Bank  of  the  Republic,  he  Metropolitan  Bank, 
the  F^ipiitabie  Life  Ins.  (Jo.  (137  ft.  high),  and  others  are  i>assed.  Fulton 
St.  tucnsoff  to  the  r.  at  the  busiest  i)art  of  Broadway,  and  leads  to  Fulton 
Ferry,  pas^sing  "  old  North  Dutch  Church,  and  the  Fulton  Market. 
St.  PatU's  Church  (Fpis.),  on  the  1.  of  Broadway,  was  built  in  170*5,  and 
has  a  statue  of  St.  I'aul  on  its  oefliment,  v.ith  a  mural  tablet  in  the  front 
wall  over  the  remains  of  Gen.  Montgomery.  Oj)posite  the  church  is  the 
llondly  ornamented  Bark  Dank  and  the  extensive  and  elegant  Jlerald 
liuildini/,  standi. ig  on  the  site  of  Barnuni's  Museum  (which  was  burnt  in 
18(55).  The  long  and  simple  gr.^nito  front  of  the  Astor  Ifouse  cotne.s  next, 
or  Broadway  (on  tao  1.),  with  Vesey  St.  diverging  to  the  1,  and  leading  to 
the  great  Washington  Miirkrt,  with  its  rude  and  unsightly  sheds  fille«l 
with  a  rare  disjday  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables,  meats  and  fish,  of  the 
adjacent  districts.  PaiK  Row  stretches  olT  obli([uely  to  the  r.  from  the 
Astor  Hoe  .e  to  Printing  H(>'ise  S<iuare,  with  its  bronze  .statue  of  Franklin. 
ThiS  vicinity  is  one  of  the  great  intellectual  centres  of  America,  and  here 
are  seen  the  oflices  of  the  Jfemld,  Timps,  Tribune,  Warl^l,  San,  Tchf/rmn, 
News,  I'j.rprcss,  JJay  Btxik,  Evening  Mail,  Journal,  Sfo/Us  Zeitung  (aP. 
daily  papers,  besides  a  shoal  of  weeklies.)  The  Christian  Union,  Inde- 
pendent, Nation,  and  other  able  papers,  are  published  in  Park  Place.  By 
turning  from  Printing  House  Square  down  Frankfort  St.,  Franklin  Square 
is  reached,  with  the  vast  and  imposing  publishing  house  of  the  Harpers. 
Chatham  St.,  the  prolongation  of  Park  Row,  is  the  home  of  Jew  trades- 


332     Route  51. 


NEW   YORK   CTTY. 


H  \. 


y 


J' 


men,  mock  auctions,  and  old-clcthes  shojis.  At  the  S.  cud  of  tlic  City 
Hall  Park,  and  opposite  the  Astor  House,  is  the  new  *  U.  S.  Post-Office, 
a  stately  and  immense  granite  building,  with  lofty  Louvre  donn's  and  a 
frontage  (on  Broadway)  of  340  ft.  The  architecture  is  Doric  and  Renais- 
sance, the  grr.nite  columns  and  blocks  being  cut  and  carved  ready  for  their 
places  (by  (500  men)  at  T)ix  Island,  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  and  ihe  building 
is  al)solutely  incombustible.  The])asom('nt  and  first  floor  will  be  reserved 
for  the  Post-Office,  the  second  and  third  floor  for  the  U.  S.  Courts,  and  12 
elevators  will  keep  up  communications.  The  City  Hall  is  N.  of  the  Post- 
OfTice,  and  is  a  fine  building  of  Massachusetts  niarldc,  216  ft.  long  an<l 
105  ft.  broad,  with  Ionic,  Corinthian,  and  composite  pilasters  lining  its 
front.  I  is  snnnounted  by  a  fine  clock-tower,  which  is  illuminated  at 
night.  The  City  Hall  was  nine  years  in  building,  and  cost  )§  700,000.  N. 
of  this  edifice  is  the  new  Court  House,  a  massive  and  magnificent  marble 
building,  in  Corinthian  architecture,  250  ft.  long,  and  completely  fire- 
proof. It  was  commenced  in  1801,  the  expense  being  estiinated  at 
$  800,000,  but  the  infamous  Tammany  Ring  having  gained  control  in  the 
city,  .f  5 -(5,000,000  was  (nominally)  spent  on  the  Court  House.  The 
elegant  Corinthian  portico  on  Chandlers  St.,  the  loftj  and  graceful  ilome, 
and  other  details  of  the  plan,  have  not  yet  been  completed.  Opposite  the 
Court  House  is  the  great  marble  building  devoted  to  A..  T.  Stewart's 
wholesale  trade  (shawls,  silks,  and  dry  goods),  standing  on  the  site  of  a 
British  fort  of  1776-83.  Passing  up  Broadway,  with  immense  and'costly 
buildings  on  either  side,  and  similarly  lined  streets  running  off  to  r.  and  1., 
the  brilliant  windows,  the  throngs  on  the  sidewalks,  and  the  roar  of  the 
street  cause  constant  surj^rise.  On  the  r.  is  the  "  Bloody  Sixth  "  Ward 
(bounded  by  Broadway,  Canal,  Bowery,  and  Chatham  Sts.),  with  its  dense 
and  dangerous  population;  its  filth,  poverty,  and  crime.  By  turning 
down  Leonard  St.  (to  the  r.)  the  city  prison,  called  the  Tombs,  is  reached. 
It  is  built  massively  in  the  gloomiest  and  heaviest  form  of  Egyptian 
architecture,  and  is  usually  well  filled,  wlule  in  the  interior  of  the  (quad- 
rangle is  the  place  of  executions.  A  short  distance  beyond,  at  the  inter- 
section of  Baxter,  Park,  and  Worth  Sts. ,  is  'he  Fire  Points,  formerly  the 
most  terrible  locality  in  the  citj  and  republic,  but  now  somewhat  im- 
proved by  the  aggressions  of  religious  missions.  In  this  vicinity  are  th.e 
crowded  and  reeking  tenements,  the  narrow  and  filthy  alleys,  the  unspeak- 
able corruption  and  utter  depraA  ity  of  the  sIutus  of  the  Empire  City.  It 
is  well  to  be  accompanied  by  a  i)oliceman  during  a  visit  to  this  district, 
both  to  insure  personal  safety  arid  to  learn  ndimte  details. 

Advancing  up  Broadway,  Walker  St.  is  seen  on  the  1.,  leading  to  the 
Hudson  River  R.  R.  T)epot,  wliose  Hudson  St.  front  is  sunnounted  by 
the  largest  bronze  gn  i]-)S  in  the  voi-ld  (emblematic  of  Vanderbilt's  career). 
TTie  ancient  Chapel      St.  John  ;Vonts  the  depot,  which  was  built  on  St. 


NEW    YORK    CITY. 


Ruutc  51,     333 


John's  Park.      Passing  now  the  superb  wliite   nuirlik'  N.   Y    Life  Ins. 
Building  (Ionic  arcliitecture)  and  the  Brandreth  House,  tlie  wide  Canal 
St.  is  crossed.  Lord  and  Taylor's  vast  wholesale  store,  the  St.   Niciiolas 
Hotel,  Applctoii's  bc/okstore,  and  liall,  Black  &  Go's,  jewelry  store  are 
passed  on  the  1.,  with  tiie  Prescott  and  Metropolitan  Hotels  on  the  r.     A 
little  way  beyond  the  Grand  Central  Hotel  (on  the  1.),  a  side  street  leads 
W.  to  Washington  Scpiare,  laid  out  on  the  old  Potter's  Field,  where  over 
100,000  bodies  are  burie<l  in  trenches.     On  one  sid<3  of  the  Square  is  the 
New  York  University  (founded  in  1831),  a  fine  marble  building  200  ft. 
long,  in  Engli.-h  collegiate  architecture,  with  a  large  Gothic  window  light- 
ing the  chapel.     Above  the  Grand  Central   Hot'd,  Astor  Place  leads  oflF 
obliquely  to  the  r.  to  the  Mercantile  Library  (95-100,000  volumes)  ia 
the  old  Astor  Place  Opera  House.     Close  by,  on  the  S.,  in  Lafayette 
Place,  is  the  Astor  Library  (open  9-5  daily),  in  two  lofty  halls  in  a 
large  Romanes(iue  building.     The  library  was  endowed  with  $  400,000  by 
Jolm  Jacob  Astor,  and  has  over  100,000  volumes,  besides  rare  oM  books 
and  considerable   departments  in  the  European   languages.      The  Bible 
House  (at  the  end  of  Astor  Place)  is  an  immense  structure,  six  stories 
high,  covering  ^  of  an  acre,  with  700  ft.  frontage,  and  containing  600  oper- 
atives.    It  cost  $300,000,  and  is  ihe  property  of  the  American  Bible  So- 
ciety, and  besides  the  vast  numbers  of  Bibles  issued  from  its  presses,  there 
are  13  religious  and  philanthropic  papers  published  in  the  budding.    Since 
1817  this  society  has  put  in  circulation  9,000,000  Bibles  and  Testaments, 
in  24  languages.     Opposite  the  BiWe  House  is  the  Cooper  Institute,  a 
brown-stone  building  occupying  an  entire  s(iuare,  which  was  founded  and 
endowed  by  Peter  Cooper,  of  New  Y^ork.     It  has  a  great  library  and  read- 
ing-room, with  courses  of  lectures  and  special  studies,  nearly  all  of  wduch 
are  free  to  the  people.     Stuyvesant  Place  leads  N.  E.  from  the  Institute, 
passing  St.  Mark's  Church  (Epis. ),  whiclihasthe  tombs  of  the  Dutch  Cap- 
tain-General Stuyvesant  (died  1(582),  the  British  Governor  Sloughter,  and 
the  American  Governor  Tompkins.     At  the  end  of  the  Place  is  the  ele- 
gant yellow  sandstone  building  of  the  N.  Y.   Historical  Society,  with  a 
rich  historical  library  of  20,000  volumes,  collections  of  antiquities,  a  pic- 
ture gallery,  and  museums  of  Nineveli  marbles  and  Egyptian  curiosities. 
Cole's  "Course  of  Empire  "  paintings  are  in  this  art  gallery. 

On  Broadway,  corner  of  10th  St.,  is  Stewart's  vast  dry-goods  store, 
with  15  acres  of  flooring,  said  to  be  the  largest  store  in  the  world.  Grace 
Church  and  Rectory  are  now  seen  on  the  r.,  costly  and  elegant  b  uldings 
of  marble,  in  the  most  llorid  Gothic  architecture.  The  lofty  and  graceful 
spire  is  much  admii'ed,  and  the  interior  of  the  church,  with  40  stained 
windows,  light  columns  and  arches  and  carvings,  has  a  theatrical  splendor. 
At  this  point  Broadway  bends  to  the  1.,  and  soon  reaches  Union  Square, 
a  pleasant  oval  pai'k,  with  green  lawns  and  shrubbery,  and  a  large  popu- 


334    Route  51. 


NEW   VOllK   CITY. 


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lation  of  English  sparrows.  On  the  E.  is  a  colossal  equestrian  statue  of 
Washington,  whicli  is  much  admired,  and  on  the  W.  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Lincoln.  The  Scjuare  is  lined  with  line  liotels  and  stores,  although  it  was 
formerly  the  most  aristocratic  part  of  the  city.  University  Place  runs  S. 
from  Union  Square,  passing  the  N.  Y.  Society  Library  (near  12th  St.  ; 
foumied  1700  ;  38,000  volumes)  and  tlie  Union  Theological  Seminary  (near 
8th  St.  ;  with  6  professors  and  100  students),  to  the  N.  Y.  University. 
14th  St.  runs  E.  by  the  elegant  St<^inway  Hall,  the  Academy  of  Music, 
Grace  Church  Chapel,  and  Tammany  Hall. 

4th  Avenue  runs  N.  from  Union  Stjuare.  To  the  r.,  down  16th  St.,  is 
Stiiyvesant  Scjuare  and  St.  George's  Churcli  (Epis.),  a  large  and  elegant 
edifice  of  brown-stone,  in  Kumunesciue  architecture,  with  a  richly  frescoed 
ceiling  100  ft.  above  the  tloor,  a  spacious  chancel,  twin  spires  (245  ft. 
high),  and  a  tine  rectory  (the  home  of  S.  IL  Tyng,  D.  D.).  Farther  up 
4th  Ave.  (corner  of  20th  St.)  is  the  Church  of  All  bonis  (Dr.  Bellows  ; 
Unitarian),  a  curious  structure  in  Italian  architecture,  with  alternate 
courses  of  brick  and  light-colored  Btone.  On  the  next  corner  is  the  Cal- 
vary  Church  (Epis.),  a  Gothic  building  of  brown-stone,  and  near  by  is  St. 
Faul's  Church  (Meth. ),  of  white  marble,  in  Romanesque  architecture. 
On  the  corner  of  4th  Ave.  and  23d  St.  is  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Asso- 
ciation building,  a  large  and  costly  structure  of  brown  and  Ohio  stone,  in 
the  Renaissance  architecture,  and  including  a  line  library,  reading-rooms, 
parlors,  a  gynmasium,  and  a  public  hall.  Stra  igers  will  meet  a  kindly 
welcome  here.  Opposite  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  is  the  elegan'^  *  National 
Academy  of  Design,  built  of  gray  and  white  marbles  and  blue-stone,  in 
the  purer  Gothic  forms  of  the  12th  century,  with  certain  features  copied 
from  the  best  Venetian  architecture.  It  has  an  imposing  entrance  and 
stairway,  with  extensive  galleries,  in  which  every  spring  and  summer  are 
held  exhibitions  of  hundreds  of  the  recent  works  of  the  best  of  living 
American  artists  (admission  25c.).  On  the  lower  lloor  is  the  Suydam  col- 
lection (on  permanent  deposit),  which  includes  92  pictures  by  eminent 
French  and  American  artists,  with  a  few  works  of  the  old  Italian  masters. 
E.  of  the  Academy  (on  23d  St.)  are  the  N.  Y.  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons,  the  Deniilt  Dispensary,  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital,  and  the  Col- 
lege uf  t)<e  City  of  New  York  (corner  of  Lexington  Ave.).  Passing  W. 
along  23d  St.,  Madison  Square  is  soon  reached  (3  M.  from  the  Battery), 
a  bright  ana  fashion-favored  i)ark  of  six  acres,  surrounded  by  palatial 
hotels  (5tli  Ave.,  Hoflnian,  St.  James,  &c. ),  and  adorned  by  a  monument 
to  Gen.  Worth.  23d  St.  runs  thence  W.  to  the  Hudson  River,  passing 
Booth's  Theatre  (corner  of  6th  Ave. ),  with  the  new  and  imposing  Masonic 
Hall  on  the  opposite  corner,  and  the  great  marble  Opera  House  on  the 
comer  of  8th  Ave.  Turning  to  the  1.  from  23d  St.  down  9th  Ave.  to  20th 
St.,  the  stone  buildings  of  the  richly  endowed  and  llourisliing  Oeneral 


NEW   YORK   CITY. 


Jiouie  51.     335 


.ng  W. 
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Theological  Seminary  (Eitis. )  may  be  seen.  BroaiUvay  runs  N.  from 
Madison  Square  for  nearly  2  M.  to  the  Central  Park,  crossing  the  num- 
bered streets  obliquely,  and  passing  the  sumptuous  Stevens  House  (hotel 
garni,  corner  of  6th  Ave,  \,  Wood's  Museum  (near  30th  St.),  the  Congre- 
gational Tabernacle  (comer  of  34th  St.),  the  Armory  of  the  37th  Regi- 
ment (corner  of  6th  Ave.),  and  long  lines  of  fine  buildings  and  .stores. 
Fifth  Avenue  begins  on  the  S.  at  Washington  Square,  and  passes  the  Col- 
lege of  St.  Francis  Xavier  (Jesuit  ;  corner  of  15th  St.  and  opposite  the 
Manhattan  and  the  New  York  Club  Houses),  Belmont's  palace  (corner  of 
18th  St.),  Dr.  Hall's  Church  (I'res.  ;  corner  of  19th  St.),  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Communion  (Ei)is.  ;  cruciform  Gothic,  of  brown-stone,  with 
free  seats  ;  corner  of  20th  St.  and  6th  Ave.),  and  the  Union  Club  House 
(built  of  brown-stone  at  a  cost  of  $  300,000  ;  corner  of  22d  St. ).  The 
avenue  now  pa.sses  tlie  line  of  .superb  hotels  on  the  W.  side  of  Madison 
Square,  and  crosses  Broadway  diagonally.  The  route  from  Madison 
Square  to  the  Central  Park  by  this  avenue  leads  through  the  most  aristo- 
cratic and  splendid  street  in  America,  —  forming  a  scene  of  unexampled 
brilliancy  and  beauty,  especially  on  pleasant  Smidays  after  moniing  ser- 
vice and  late  in  the  afternoon.  Just  off  the  avenue  on  2oth  St.  is  Trinity 
Chapel,  an  elegant  edifice  lined  with  Caen  stone,  frescoed,  with  richly 
stained  windows,  and  famous  for  its  choral  services.  Si.  Stfjihcn's  Church 
(Cath. ),  which  has  the  most  elegant  altar  in  America,  may  be  seen  down 
28th  St.,  which  leads  off  to  the  E.  to  Bellcvue  Huspital  and  the  Morgue. 
On  29th  St.,  near  the  avenue,  is  the  quaint  and  irregidar  Church  of  the 
Transfiguration,  much  affected  for  fashionable  weddings  and  familiarly 
known  as '*  the  little  church  around  the  corner."  On  the  corner  of  33d 
St.  is  W.  B.  Astor's  mansion,  while  on  the  corner  of  34th  St.  is  the  superb 
marble  palace  of  A.  T.  Stewart,  which  cost  S  2,000,000,  and  has  a  famous 
picture-gallery. 

34th  St.  leads  W.  to  the  Hudson,  passing  the  turreted  and  embattled 
buildings  of  the  N.  Y.  Insiitution  for  the  Blind.  On  the  E.  it  conducts 
to  Park  Ave.,  on  high  ground,  which  is  underlaid  by  the  4th  Ave.  R. 
R.  passing  through  a  tunnel  over  which  are  Avell-arranged  parks.  The 
Unitarian  Church  of  the  Messiah  fronts  on  Park  Avenue,  and  is  adjoined 
by  the  spacious  C^mrch  of  the  Covenant  ( Pres. ),  built  of  gray-stone  in 
Lombardo-Gothic  arcitecture.  In  this  vicinity  (corner  of  4tli  Ave.  and 
32d  St.)  is  a  vast  and  elegant  iron  building,  erected  by  A.  T.  Stewart  for 
a  home  for  working-women. 

On  the  corner  of  5th  Ave.  and  35th  St.  is  the  costly  and  ulti-a-ritualistic 
Christ  Church  (Epis. ),  with  its  renowned  artistic  music  and  its  elaborate 
frescoes,  while  the  plainer  Brick  Church  (Pres.)  is  on  the  37th  St.  comer. 
On  5th  Ave.,  from  40th  to  42d  Sts.,  is  the  Distributing  Reservoir  of  the 
Croton  Aqueduct,  massively  built  of  granite  in  Egyptian  architecture,  44 


330    Huate51. 


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ft.  liigli,  420  ft.  stiaare,  with  an  area  of  4  acres  and  a  capacity  of  23,000,000 
gallons.  The  hroad  i»ron»ena(le  on  top  is  open  to  the  public,  and  com- 
mands extensive  and  pleasing  views.  Reservoir  Sqnare  is  a  i)rctty  jiark 
on  the  W.,  wliile  the  (French  Catholic)  College  of  St.  Louis  is  farther 
down  on  42d  St.  Oi)po.site  the  Reservoir  (on  Sth  Ave.)  is  the  feudal-lock- 
ing building  of  Rutgers  Female  College.  Two  squares  to  the  E.  on  42d 
St.  is  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  the  converging  point  of  several  laihvays. 
It  is  an  enormous  structure  of  luiek  and  stone,  covering  3  acres,  and  700 
ft.  long,  built  in  Renaissan».e  architecture,  with  several  lofty  Louvre 
domes.  On  llie  corner  of  S'h  Ave.  and  43d  St.  is  the  Jewish  Tcmpk 
Kvuinucl,  the  eliief  of  the  27  synagogues  of  the  city,  and  the  hnest  piece 
of  Saraceidc  architecture  in  America.  It  has  some  features  copied  from 
the  ancient  Alhanibra,  and  its  interior  is  a  dazzling  picture  of  Oriental 
magnificence.  On  the  corner  of  4r)th  St.  is  the  4th  Universalist  Church 
(Dr.  Chapin's),  near  which  is  the  curious  front  of  the  Ei)iscoi)al  Church 
of  the  Heavenly  Rest.  On  49t]i  St.,  near  the  avenue,  are  the  buildings 
of  Columbia  Collcrje,  a  venerable  and  wealthy  institution,  which  was 
chartered  (as  Khig's  College)  by  George  II.  of  England  in  1754.  At  the 
comer  of  50th  St.  -is  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick  (Cath.),  which  is  to  be 
the  grandest  church  in  America.  It  was  commeneed  in  1858,  and  is  now 
nearly  half  done  ;  the  building  oecu])ying  the  highest  point  on  5th  Ave., 
and  being  iirndy  founded  on  solid  ledges  of  rock.  The  material  is  white 
marble,  and  the  architecture  is  tlie  decorated  Gothic  of  the  13th  century. 
The  front  is  to  be  guarded  by  two  marble  spires,  each  328  ft.  high,  and 
adorned  with  statuary  and  rich  carving.s,  while  the  interior  columns  are 
of  marble,  sui)porting  a  high  and  ornate  clere-story.  The  lofty  and  ele- 
gant front  entrance  (now  coni])leted)  is  worthy  of  close  inspection.  N.  of 
the  cathedral  is  the  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum.  The  spacious  Church  of 
St.  Thomas  (Epis. )  is  just  above  (on  the  1.),  near  which  is  St.  Luke's  Hos- 
pital.    At  5*Jth  St.  is  the  Scholars'  Gate  to  the 

Central  Park. 

In  185G  tho  present  site  of  the  Park  was  a  droaiy  and  desolate  region  of  swp.mpa 
and  ledges,  dotted  here  and  there  with  heaps  of  ruV)hish  and  the  shanties  of  a 
rude  and  degraded  i)eople.  In  tliat  year  tlie  woric  V)egan  wliieh  has  since  given 
New  York  the  most  beautiful,  and  one  of  the  hirpest  of  the  parks  of  tlie  worhl,  — 
a  work  wliich  up  to  tlie  chisiM.f  1SG4  alone  had  eost  8  0,200,000.  The  park  is  a 
paral'elograu),  '1\  ]\I.  long  and  h  M.  wide,  being  5  J!.  N.  of  the  Battery,  and  nearly 
1  M.  from  the  rive-rs  on  eitlier  si<le.  It  iuiludt's  803  acres,  of  which  ISo  are  of 
water,  15  M.  of  carriage-roads,  s  M.  of  bridle-itaths,  and  'Ih  IM.  of  walks,  while 
eonununication  across  the  island  iscontincd  to  (nnr  sunken  roads  which  pass  from 
E.  to  AV.  across  the  i)ark  and  under  its  drive-ways.  Park  carriages  are  in  wait- 
ing at  the  lower  gates,  and  carry  visitors  all  tludugh  the  grounds,  for  a  small  sum. 
There  are  brilliant  skating-earnivals  on  the  frozen  jionds  during  winter,  and  on 
sunnner  afternoons  (esju'cially  JSuinlays)  the  ]iromt'nades  and  driveways  are 
thronged.  The  itark  may  be  readiecl  by  cither  of  several  horse-ear  lines  from  the 
Astor  lIou.se  and  the  lower  jmrt  of  the  city. 

Near  the  Si^liolar's  Gate  (.^th  Ave.)  is  the  old  State  Arsenal,  a  massive 


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NEW   YOKK  CITY. 


Itoute  51.     337 


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castL-llati'il  building  now  used  for  tlie  ofllcers  of  the  park  ami  for  an  Art 

G.illiTy,  in  wliich  are  87  casts  from  the  statuary  works  of  Crawford,  together 

with  other  curiosities.     A  consideralde  miniher  of  rare  wihl  animals  and 

beautiful  birds  are  kupt  in  ca^^os  near  the  building,  and  form  the  nucleus 

of  a  Zo()logical  (Jardcii.     Near  the  Scholar's  fiate  is  a  lar;,'*;  lirnnzo  bust  of 

Humboldt,  beyond  which  is  the  I'und  (U  acn-s),  an  irregular  sheet   of 

water  much  favored  by  skaters  in  winter.     From  this  gate,  winding  paths 

and  drives  conduct,  by  graceful  curves  and  passing  picturesciue  knolls  and 

groves,  bridges  and  arbors,  to  The  Mall,  the  chief  promenade  and  orna- 

luont  of  the  jiark.     At  tin;  entrance  of  this  iiobh;  esplanade  are  fine  bronze 

statues  of  William  Sliakespeare  an<l  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  other  groups 

and  statues  are  seen  at  various  points.     The  Mall  is  1*212  ft.  long  and  203 

ft.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  double  line.-'  of  tall  trees.      At  the  Music 

Pavilion,  near  the  upi)er  end,  tine  band-concei-ts  are  given  on  pleasant 

Wednesday  and  Satunlay  afternoons,  and  at  such  times  thj  vicinity  is 

lilled  witu   a  gay  and  varied  crowd.     The   Mall   is  terminated   by  The 

*  Terrace,  a  sumptuous   pile  of  architecture,  with  frescoed  arcades  and 

corridors,  broad  i)romenades,  costly  and  elaborate  balustrades,  and  high 

pedestals  which  are  to  be  graced  with  symbolic  statuary.     Broad  .stone 

stairways  lead  down  to  the  esj  Umade  by  the  lake-side,  on  which  is  erected 

llie  most  elegant  fountain  on  the  continent,  with  bronzes  and  rare  marbk-s 

re])resenting  the  Angel   of  Belhesda.     A  large  liotilla  of  pleasure-l)oats 

>  kept  on  the  Ventral  Lake  (2U  acres),  and  pleasant  excursions   may 

e  made  with  little  ex})ense  (tarill's  regidatcd  l^y  the  commissioners).     On 

he  W.  of  the  Mall  is  the  (Jrcen,  a  broad  lawn  covering  15  acres,  and 

estined  for  a  parade-ground.    Near  the  head  of  the  Mall  (on  the  r. )  is  the 

'asino^  a  neat  refectory  on  a  high  knoll.     Crossing  Central  Lalce  by  the 

aceful  Bow  Bridge,  The  Bamble  is  entered,  —  30  acres  of  copse  aud 

hicket  and  craggy  hill,  bounded  by  the  lake  and  threaded  by  a  labyrinth 

f  romantic   foot-paths.     The  V'iue-covered  and  Evergreen  Widks,    the 

tone  Arch,  the  Grotto,  and  other  pretty  objects  are  foun<l  in  the  Ramble. 

u  Vista  Hill  (to  the  N.)  is  tho  C'roton  Reservoir^  which  covers  ",1  acres, 

105  ft.  above  tide-water,  and  contains  150,000,000  gallons  of  water. 

lere  are  broad  and  far-viewing  promenades  on  its  walls    of   massive 

asonry.     Just  to  the  N.  is  tlie  Xew  Reservoir^  covering  10t>  acres  and 

aving  a  capacity  of  1,000,000,000  gallons.     The  graceful  curves  of  its 

ore-line  are  bounded  by  lofty  stone  walls  of  immense  thickness,  aud 

irnaniental  gate-houses  stand  at  its  N.  and  S.  ends.     Just  S.  W.  of  the 

ctangular  (smaller)  reservoir  is  the  Belvidere,  situated  on  high  ground 

verlooking  the  park.     Above  the  New  Reservoir  is  the  Upper  Park,  less 

sited  and  with  less  artificial  embellishment  then  the  Lower  Park,  but 

ith  more  marked  natural  beauties.     Passing  the  East  and  West  Mjadows 

e  buildings  of  Mount  St.  Vincent  are  seen  on  tlie  E.,  where  a  pleasant 

15  V 


338     Route  51. 


Ni:W    YOHK  CI  TV. 


'ft;  'V 


rt'foctory  has  been  installed  in  tliu  jilaco  foniMMly  orcujiiod  liy  u  Cutliolio 
Sfiiiiiiaiy.  To  tho  E.  is  tluj  Arljoiettim,  wliiU;  close  l»y,  on  the  N.,  is 
llitriem  Lake  (covering  l(i  acres),  with  its  bold  8.  shore  UikmI  witli  the 
remains  of  ancient  forlilic:itions.  A  i>ri'tty  falling  stream,  spanned  by 
fivo  bridges,  runs  \V.  from  the  lake  to  a  i)iclures«iue  pond  S.  of  the  far- 
viewing  (irrat  Hill,  which  htoks  down  info  the  ravine  known  in  the 
U(!Vobitionary  era  as  McCJown's  I'ass.  77/c  liluj)'  is  a  boM  dilf  which 
terminates  the  park  on  the  N.,  ami  bears  the  remains  of  old  forts  and 
lieldworks. 

Frojiting  on  the  park  near  the  Children's  date  (72d  St.  and  5th  Ave.), 
is  the  Lenox  Library,  a  stately  marble  building,  costing  ij 500, 000,  and 
designed  for  the  reception  of  a  museum,  art  gallery,  Iil)rary,  and  lecture- 
liall.  Close  by  is  the  Lenox  lli'spital  (Presbyterian),  !i  <iuaint  and  ornato 
brick  and  stone  structure,  with  tall  and  sleuiler  spires.  A  few  rods  dis- 
tant (on  the  old  Hamilton  Scpiare;  and  built  at  a  cost  of  .S  !iOO,000)  is  the 
spacious  and  imposing  new  buihlingof  the  Normal  College,  in  the  secular 
Gothic  style,  with  a  lofty  and  massive  Victoria  tower.  The  Foundling 
Hospital  is  still  further  E.,  and  in  ])lain  sight  is  the  J\fouiU  Sinai 
Hospital,  a  cluster  of  stately  buildings  in  lOlizabethan  architecture,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $  340,000.  The  vast  German  park  and  beer-.^arden  called 
Jones's  Wood,  is  still  farther  E.  at  the  river-side,  and  looks  across  on 
Blackwell's  Island. 

From  the  ])oint  where  Broadway  reaches  the  park  (corner  of  8th  Ave. 
and  59th  St.)  a  grand  avenue  called  the  Boulevard,  with  a  jiarked  centre 
and  graceful  curves,  runs  N.  to  Manhattanville  and  Kings  Bridge.  This 
road  passes  (at  73d  St. )  the  extensive  stone  building  (Gothic)  of  the  N.  V. 
Orphan  Asylum,  wliich  looks  down  on  the  Hudson.  The  Leake  and 
Watts  Or])han  House  fronts  on  llOtli  St.,  and  can  accommodate  250 
children.  Close  by  (on  the  E.  )is  the  Morningside  Park.  At  115th  St. 
is  the  Bloomingdale  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  with  spacious  buildings  in 
pleasant  grounds.  The  Boulevard  now  leads  by  market-gardens  and 
rural  villas,  to  the  village  of  Manhattanville  (130th  St.),  with  the  inipos- 
the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  and   of  Manhattan 


nig 


dings 


College  on  the  hill  beyond. 

Environs  of  New  York. 

The  High  Bridge  is  a  structure  worthy  of  the  Roman  Empire.  It  is 
1,450  ft.  long,  114  ft.  high,  is  supported  on  14  piers,  and  h  used  to  carry 
the  Croton  Aqueduct  across  Harlem  River.  It  is  built  of  gi'anite,  and 
cost  §900,000.  Near  this  point  (11  M.  from  the  City  Hall)  are  the 
buildings  of  the  Juvenile  Asylum,  while  the  elegant  structure  of  the  Insti- 
tution for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  to  the  S,  W.  (near  l()5th  St.).  Just 
across  Manhattan  Island  (which  is  narrow  at  this  point)  is  Fort  Washing- 


" 


HKUOKLVX. 


Unite  51.     339 


Catholic 
lie  N.,  is 
with  tho 
uiiM'd  hy 
the  far- 
•n  in  the 
iir  which 
forts  ami 

th  Ave.), 

»,000,  and 
I  li'c'ture- 
,11(1  ornato 

rods  dis- 
00)  is  tho 
lie  secular 
Foundling 
unt  tSinai 
re,  erected 
Icn  called 

across  on 

Sth  Ave. 
;ed  centre 
llge.     This 
Ithe  N.  y. 
icake   and 
idate  250 
115th  St. 
lildings  in 
•dens   and 
le  impos- 
auhattau 


Ire.     It  is 
to  carry 
[inite,  and 
are  the 
|the  Insti- 
.).     Just 
]Vashinff- 


i 


tn)i,  looking  ^own  on  the  Hudson  in  a  sucocssion  of  fino  views.  The 
Ili;.?]i  IJridge  may  be  reachcil  l)y  the  liiu-s  of  horse  cars  which  (ravers*-  2d 
anil  .^d  Aves.,  luit  the  steamers  which  leave  Peck  Slip  (lli-15  times 
(l.iily)  for  Harlem  afTonl  a  more  pleasant  route.  Tlicse  boats  j.ass  up  the 
East  River,  by  the  immense  municipal  charitable  and  correctional  buiM- 
ings  on  IllackweU's  Islavd.  The  entire  K.  water  front  of  (he  city  Is  passed, 
Astoria  is  visited,  and,  leaving  (he  (uiiiultiious  Hell  (J.ite  passage  on  the  r., 
llu'  b  at  ei.ters  a  narrower  channel  with  WariTs  Islntnl  on  (he  r.  On  this 
i4and  are  seen  tho  imposing  and  extensive  buihlings  (»r  (he  Iiufbii.itij 
Asylum,  together  with  the  FiUnatic  Asylum  and  tln^  lOndgratit  Hosi)itals. 
JluulalVs  Idaiul  cowwu.  \w\i  {o\\  the  r.),  with  the  House  of  Refuge  and 
other  civic  charities.  The  steamer  stops  at  Harlnn  iJridge,  wheiu-e  tho 
Ili-di  Hri<lge  may  be  reached  by  smaller  boats  or  by  road. 

Brooklyn,  the  third  city  of  the  Utdon  (li'.XJ.tMiO  inlialtitants),  is  joined 
to  New  York  by  several  ferries  across  Kast  River.  The  bridgi;  which  has 
lieen  in  process  of  construction  for  years,  and  which  will  connect  the  two 
cities,  will  be  the  most  stupendous  work  of  the  kind  in  llie  wf)rld.  The 
Citjf  Hall  is  1  M.  from  the;  Fulton  Ferry  (corner  of  Couitand  Fulton  Hts. ) 
a'ld  is  an  elegant  classic  building  of  wliite  marble,  nearwhi(!h  is  the  /{uujs 
County  Court  House,  })uilt  of  marble  in  Corinthian  architecture,  at  a  cost 
of  .$5-10,01)0.  There  are  many  other  tine  i)ublic  buililings  in  the  city, 
while  the  private  mansions  (on  Clinton  Avenue,  Ihooklyn  Heights,  it(\)  aro 
worthy  of  notice.  The  U.  S.  yanj  Yard  is  of  the  first  class,  and  covers 
40  acres,  with  large  depots  of  maiin'el  of  war,  ship-houses,  liarracks,  kc, 
wliile  the  Dry  Dock  (which  cost  $1,000,000)  is  one  of  the  best,  Scune 
line  vessels  may  be  seen  here,  including  the  old  line-of-battle  ship  "  North 
Carolina."  The  Marine  Hospital  (500  patients)  is  a  tine  granite  building 
on  the  Wallabout  Bay,  where  the  British  i)rison-ships  were  anchored 
during  the  Revolution,  and  where  11,500  patriot  prisoners  die<l.  Tho 
Atlantic  Dock  fronts  toward  Governor's  Islaiul,  and  its  long  granite  piei*s 
and  innuense  warehouses  merit  a  visit.  The  principal  churches  of  tho 
city  are  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  a  superli  structure  (now  building)  on  the 
corner  of  Lafayette  and  Vanderbilt  Aves. ;  the  Plymouth  Church  (Henry 
Ward  Beecher)  on  Orange,  near  Hicks  St. ;  the  Church  of  the  Pilgrims 
(Rev.  R.  S.  Storrs,  Jr.),  corner  of  Henry  and  Puiiusen  Sts. ;  and  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  corner  of  Clinton  and  Montague  Sts.  From 
the  fact  of  its  having  233  churches,  Brooklyn  has  won  and  wears  tho 
name  of  "  The  City  of  Churches.  

Prospect  Park  (reached  by  horse-cars  on  Fulton  St.  and  Flatbush  Ave. ) 
is  a  noble  rival  of  Central  Park,  covering  510  acres,  and  costing,  since  its 
commencement  (in  1866),  §9,000,000.  The  Plaza  is  a  large,  paved,  circu- 
lar space  at  the  entrance,  with  a  statue  of  Lincoln,  fountains,  and  flowers. 
There  are  broad  and  verdant  meadows,  large  and  umbrageous  gv  ves, 


J 


310  ni>vkr,2.      m:w  youk  to  aliuny. 


I 


')   H»' 


liills  coniiniiniliiig  suporb  views  of  the  iJay  of  New  York,  Staten  Island, 
and  tilt'  HiKlilaiirls  of  tin;  Hudson  and  the  Ncversink.  There  is  a  pictu- 
resfpio  hike  of  ♦)!  acres,  and  the  romantic  variety  of  tlie  natuiiil  scenery  of 
ihjs  park,  to^^'ether  with  its  height  and  its  fine  distant  views,  rencU-r  it 
th«!  pride  of  Ijong  Ishmd.  Tliere  are  8  M.  of  drives,  4  M.  of  rides,  and  a 
great  nnmltcr  of  ranildt-s. 

Greenwood  Cemetery  is  3  M.  from  Fulton  Ferry  (liorse-cars  every  15 
minutes  ;  strangers  not  admitted  on  Sun<lay),  and  is  the  most  beautiful 
cemetery  in  the  world.  It  contains  212  acres  of  land,  traversed  by  20  M. 
of  winding  patlis  and  driveways,  and  embellished  with  forests  and  lakes. 
Ocean  liill  commands  a  view  over  the  limitless  sea,  while  Buttle  Hill 
overlooks  New^  York  and  its  Hay,  Brooklyn,  Jersey  City,  and  the  Hud- 
son. Many  of  the  monuments  are  of  much  artistic  merit,  and  the  reve- 
nues of  the  cemetery  are  devoted  to  its  ailornment. 

To  the  E.  of  Brooklyn  are  the  large  cemeteries  of  "The  Evergreens" 
and  "Cypress  Hills,''  beyond  which  are  the  (plaint and  pleasant  old  Long 
Island  towns  of  Flusliing  ami  Jamaica.  Still  farther  E.  is  Roslyn 
(steamer  from  Peck  Sliji),  a  sweet  village  on  Hempstead  Bay,  near  which 
is  Cedarmere,  the  home  of  Bryant.  Long  Branch  is  34  M.  from  New 
Y'ork  (by  steamer  from  Pier  28,  N.  R.,  to  Sandy  Hook,  and  thence  by 
rail),  and  is  the  favorite  seaside  resort  of  the  "  uj)per  ten."  It  has  a 
cluster  of  the  most  elegant  and  exj^'usive  summer-hotels  on  the  coast,  and 
has  line  bathing  and  driving  facilities.  Coney  Ishmd  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  the  great  mass  of  the  citizens,  and  is  cpiickly  reached  by  boat  from 
Pier  1,  N.  R.,  or  by  cars  from  Brooklyn.  Excursions  to  the  beautiful 
hills  and  vast  fortifications  on  Staten  Island  ;  to  the  cities  of  Jersey  City, 
Elizabeth,  and  Newark  ;  and  through  Hell  Gate  to  the  island  towns,  will 
be  found  b 


I    ■ 


1> 


V 


62.  New  York  to  Albany.  — The  Hudson  River. 

The  ])alati.il  stoaiiiors  of  the  day  liiip  to  Albany  leave  Pier  30,  N.  R.  (foot  of 
Vestry  St.)  at  8.  :J0  a.  m.  The  nij;ht  boats  leave  Pier  41  (foot  of  Canal  St.)  at  U 
P.M.  The  Hudson  Hiver  Railroad  .station  is  on  .'JOth  St.,  near  9th  Ave.  (train."  to 
Albany,  114  M..  in  O-TjV  hr.s.);  the  Harlem  Railroad  station  is  on  42d  St. 
((Jrand  Central  Pcpot  ;  tUstance  to  Albany,  151  M.).  The  day  steamers  will 
be  pieferred  by  the  tourist,  on  account  of  the  panoramic  view,'!  of  the  river- 
Bcenery  thereby  obtained,  together  with  the  inununity  from  the  dust  and  heat  of 
the  cars. 


^:^ 


The  Hudson  River  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Dutcli  mariner  who  first  explored 
it,  —  ascending  in  the  yacht  '■  Half-Moon  "  as  far  as  the  Mohawk  River.  It  has 
its  rise  in  the  Adirondack  Mts.,  4,0i>i'  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  after  iie  confluence 
of  several  branches  it  Fort  Edward,  takes  a  southerly  course  to  the  Bay  of  New 
York.  Large  steamers  ascend  to  Troy,  150  M.,  and  siiips  can  go  as  far  as  Hudson, 
117  M.  Vast  quantities  of  lumber  are  flo.ited  down  the  stream,  while  B(|uadron3 
of  canal-lioats  an^  fretiuently  ))assed,  bearing  coal  from  Peinisylvania  (by  the  Dela- 
waie  and  Hudson  Canal  to  Rondout)  and  grain  from  the  West  (by  the  Erie  Canal 
to  Albany). 


^  ."-  *--- 


aten  Island, 
•■  is  a  i»i(.-tu- 
il  scenery  of 
^8,  ri'iidcr  it 
rides,  and  a 

irs  every  15 
it  beautiful 
'd  by  20  M. 
and  lakes. 
Battle  Hill 
1  the  Ilud- 
J  the  reve- 

Ivergreens  " 
it  old  Long 
is   Roslyji 
near  whieh 
from  New 
thence  by 
It  has  a 
I  coast,  and 
irite  resort 
boat  from 
!  beautiful 
31'sey  City, 
owns,  will 


er. 

R.  (foot  of 
al  St.)  at  U 
.  (train.-  to 
>n  42ci  St. 
iiiiiers  will 

the  river- 
ud  heat  of 


w.\ 


340 


Route  f> 


m 


t 

f 
h 


!l 


il! 


hills  coninianJ 
and  tlui  Jliglil 
resque  lake;  of 
♦  Ids  park,  tog 
the  prido  of  I 
great  number 

Greenwoot 
niiiiut'!S ;  str 
cemetery  in  < 
of  winding  p 
Ocean  Hill  c 
overlooks  N 
son      Many 
lines  of  the 

To  the  E. 
and  "  Cypr 
Island   tov 
(steamer  fr 
is  Cedarmc 
Yoi'k  (by  I 
vail),  and 
cluster  of 
lias  fine  b 
for  the  gr 
Pier  1,  N 
hills  and 
Elizabeth 
be  found 

5 

The  pE 
Vcstrv  S 
r.M.     Til 
Albany, 
(Grand  • 
be  jirefe 
Beenery 
the  cars 


The  I 
it,  -  as 
its  rise 
of  seve; 
York. 
117  M. 
of  cant 
ware  a 
to  Albaui/. 


THE  HUDSON  RTVER. 


Route  52.     341 


.8  the  great  steamer  passe.?  out  into  the  stream,  a  fine  view  is  afforded 
(if  the  harbor  in   the  distance,  the  populous  shores  of  Jersey  City  and 

!oboken  on  the  W.,  and  the  dense  lines  of  piers  and  warehouses  on  the 
e./  York  shore.  Above  iloboken  are  the  Elysian  Fields  and  Castle 
|lill,  crowned  by  the  Stevens  mansion  ;  and  still  beyond  is  V^i  eha K'Jccn , 
^•here  Aaron  Burr,  the  political  adventurer,  ^hot  (in  a  dut'l)  Alexander 
flaniilton,  a  distinguished  statesman  and  jurist,  ".nd  for  0  years  Secretary 
i>f  the  U.  S.  Treasury  (1804).  At  and  above  Weehawken  The  Palisades 
fcegin  to  assume  a  bold  aspect.  This  is  a  vast  trap-dyke,  3-  r)itO  ft.  high, 
^vhich  runs  along  the  r.  bank  from  Iloboken  to  Ilaverstraw,  with  a  lofty, 
columnar  front,  and  masses  of  fragments  at  its  base.     It  is  less  than  1  M. 

i thick,  and  hides  the  Hackensack  Valley  from  the  IIn<lson.     JiulVs  Ferry 
(W.)  is  a  summer-resort  opposite  90th  St.     Manhaddnrille  (E.)  is  a  vil- 
lage of  New  York  City,  near  which  are  the  Lunatic  Asylum  and  the  Con- 
jvent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  just  above  which  is  Carmansville,  and  a  large 
'pile  of  fine  buildings  surmounted  by  a  <lome  (the  N.  Y.   Institution  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb).     On  the  same  shore,  atid  farther  N.,  is  /''or/  ]Vnsh- 
inr/ton,  on  a  bold  clilT  near  l^'Ah  St.     This  was  the  citadel  of  the  Ameri- 
^  can  fortified  lines  in  177(5,  but  was  captured  in  November  of  that  year, 
I  with  its  garrison  of  2,G00  men.     On  the  W.  shor,.  is  Fort  Lee,  whose  gar- 
rison, retreating  after  that  event,  was  attacked  and  cut  to  pieces  by  a  large 
Hessian  force.     Near  this  point,  where  the  clifTs  loom  up  grandly,  the 
Kmmense  Palisades  Hotel  is  seen.     On  Jeffrey's  Hook  (E. )  are  the  remains 
)f  a  poAverful  redoubt  which  was  built  to  defend  the  obstructions  with 
Kvliich  the  river  was  filled,  and  near  King's  Bridge  (by  217th  St. )  were  3 
JTorts,  about  which  there  was  desperate  fighting  early  in  1777.     A  short 
listance  above  (!].),  the  mouth  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  is  passed. 

Tliis  stream  is  naiueil  after  a  legoiulary  Dutch  trmnpetor  wlio  swore  he  wntiM 

[wijn  t)ie  creek  on  his  mission  to  tiio  mainland,  "  in  spito  of  tlic  devil  "  (mi  sputit 

II  ilniivil).     lie  striij^^j^led  violently  when  iit  inid-streani,  },'ave  one  long  trninpet- 

)'  ist,  and  sank.    .\t  the  month  of  this  creek  the  Indians  attenipted  to  hoanl  IluJ- 

rm's  vessel  (,iii  150'.»),  hnt  after  a  severe  eonfhet  They  were  repnlsed  and  driven  to 

>e  shore.     Throuj^hont  the  Revolutionary  War,  Spuyten  Duvvil  was  the  southern 

jrder  of  the  "  nertral  ground,"  —a  belt  of  about  30  M.,  wlneli  was  incessantly 

frept  hy  raids  and  guerilla  bands. 

From  the  high  promontory  of  the  Palisades  on  tlie  W.  a  road  leads  to 

le  pretty  Nev/  Jersey  village  of  Fn[/Ieirn<>d,  in  the  fertile  valley  of  tlio 

[ackcnsaek.     Above  Spuyten  Duyvil  is  the  village  of  Riverdale,  near 

i^hich  (E. )  is  Mount  St.  Vincent,  a  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the  Sacred 

fearj.     The  castellated  and  towered  .stone  building  was  the  Tont  Hill 

nansion  of  Edwin  Forrest,  and  the  large  brick  builtling\vas  erected  by  the 

^sterhood  after  their  acquisition  of  the  estate.     Yonkers  (E.)  is  17  M. 

["rom  New  York,  and  is  a  large  and  nourishing  town  at  the  mouth  of  the 

Neperah  River,  where  many  New  York  merchants  live.     Hudson  mado 

lis  second  anchorage  here  (1600),  and  traded  with  many  Indians  who 


342    Route  52. 


TAllRYTOWN. 


hi 


t: 
i 

•i . 

f  f'    ! 

t 
1 


came  aboanl  lii.s  vi'ssel.  A  naval  battle  was  fought  off  Yonkers  in 
1777  between  the  British  frigates  "  Rose  "  and  "  Phrrnix  "  and  a  flotilla  of 
American  gunboats.  This  district  constituted  the  ancient  Philipse  estate, 
the  manor-house  .)f  wliich  is  still  standing,  and  with  its  broad  halls,  lofty 
rooms,  wainscoting,  and  Dutch  tile.s,  has  a  truly  antique  air.  Part  of 
the  manor  was  built  in  1682,  and  the  remainder  dates  from  1745,  all  the 
walls  being  of  scone.  Mciry  Philipse,  the  beautiful  heiress  of  this  estate, 
was  the  first  love  of  George  Washington,  and  although  he  could  not  win 
her,  he  always  rememl;irt!d  her  fondly. 

A  little  above  Yoidvers  (on  the  W.)  is  the  highest  point  of  the  Palisades, 
and  soon  Hastings  is  seen  on  the  E.,  a  prosperous  village  whence  much 
Westchester  marble  is  shipped.  Here  Lord  Cornwallis's  liritish  army 
crossed  the  Hudson,  just  before  Washington's  retreat  through  the  Jerseys. 
1  M.  above  ( E. )  is  Duhbs'  Ferry,  an  ancient  village  at  the  mouth  of  Wis- 
quacpia  Creek,  with  ruins  of  old  fortifications  and  a  quaint  old  church. 
It  was  named  for  one  Dobbs,  a  Swede,  who  kept  a  ferry  here,  and  some 
years  since  a  sharp  controversy  was  raised  by  a  well-supported  but  unsuc- 
cessful attemjjt  to  change  the  name  to  Paulding.  Opposite  this  place  is 
Piermont,  where  a  jiier  1  J\I.  long  (on  the  line  between  New  York  and 
New  Jersey)  ])rojects  from  the  W.  shore  to  the  deep-water  chaimel.  A 
branch  of  tlu'  Erie  llaihvay  runs  thence  to  Suffern,  18  M.  W.  3  M.  from 
Piermont  is  the  old  village  of  Tappan,  where  Major  Andre  was  tried  and 
executed  (17S0),  and  the  stone  house  which  was  Washington's  head-quar- 
ters and  Andre's  prison  is  still  standing.  At  Dobl  s'  Ferry  begins  a  lake- 
like widening  of  the  river  called  Tappan  Zee  (10  M.  long,  and  2-5  M. 
wide).  Near  Irringtnn,  above  the  Ferry,  are  several  fii^e  mansions,  among 
which  is  "Sunnyside,"  the  ancient  and  unique  home  of  Washington  Irv- 
ing. It  was  built  in  the  17th  century  by  Wolfert  Acker,  who  inscribed 
over  the  door  "  Lust  in  Rust "  (pleasure  in  quiet),  whence  the  Englisli 
settlers  called  it  "  Woifert's  Roost."  The  eastern  front  is  covered  with 
ivy,  from  a  slip  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  gave  Irving  at  Abbotsford.  Above 
"  Sunnyside  "  is  the  Paulding  Manor,  a  costly  building  of  marble,  in 
Elizabethan  arvdiitecture,  and  still  farther  N.  is  Tarrytown,  an  ancient 
village  beautifully  situated  on  a  far-viewing  hillside.  Near  this  village 
(the  Terwe  Dorj)  of  the  17th  century)  is  a  <|uiet  valley  known  of  old  a 
Slae})erigh Haven  {"'S[(ni\>y  lloWovf"),  which  has  been  immortalized  by 
Irving.  Carl's  W\\\,  the  Pliilijise  Castle,  and  the  bridge  over  the  Pocan- 
tico,  are  still  standing,  and  so  is  the  old  Dutch  Church,  built  in  the  17th 
century  with  bricks  brought  from  Holland. 

A  nionunient  marks  the  place  where  Andre  was  captured.  Benedict  Arnold,  .i 
brave  American  {general,  had  been  court  inartialed  and  reprimanded  for  certain 
derelictions  in  his  counnand  of  Philadeli>iiia,  and  liis  luoud  spirit  felt  the  sting  nl' 
disgrace  so  keenly  that  he  resolved  to  be  revenged  on  his  country.  He  opened  a 
secret  correspondence  with  the  British,  and  offered  to  surrender  West  Toint  (t  > 


THE  HIGHLANDS. 


Route  5£.     343 


wliif'li  be  Imcl  been  transfcnvd).  Mji^jfir  Andro,  Afljiitiiiit-Cn'iioral  of  the  British 
army,  went  up  the  Tuppan  Zi'<>  on  the  slDop-nl-w  ir  "  Vulture,"  find  landed  by 
niiilit  at  Stmiy  Point,  where  lie  arranged  with  Arnold  for  the  surrender.  Hut  the 
"\'ulturc"  was  forced  to  retire,  and  Andre,  attempting  to  pass  by  land  to  New 
Yorl<,  was  halted  in  th.o  neutral  gromiil  by  a  sijuad  oT  irre  ;ular  militia.  IIo  was 
sean^hed,  and  thf  injuTs  and  plans  of  the  surrt'iidcr  wprn  found.  Arnold  escaped 
to  the  "Vulture,"  ami  bt-camc  a  Hngadier-(icne?-al  in  the  British  army,  receiving 
also  ?30,000,  but  Andre,  being  proven  a  spy,  was  cxecuti.l  amid  the  sorrow  ot' 
both  armies,     lie  has  a  monument  in  Westminster  Abbey. 

Xt/nck  is  opposite  Tarrytown,  wliilo  to  tlie  N.  is  Siny  .*?''»,'/,  on  a 
pleasant  liillsiilo,  and  near  the  en<l  of  the  Croton  Afpioduot,  which  has  a 
fine  stone  arcli  liere.  Near  tlie  river  are  the  extensive  marble  buildings 
of  the  State  Prison,  which  were  erected  by  the  convicts,  and  stand  in 
grounds  covering  130  acres.  The  place  is  usually  overflowing  with 
prisoners,  who  are  guard*. d  by  sentinels  and  patrols.  Opposite  Sing  Sing 
(meaning  "  Stony  Place ")  is  Verdritege  Hook  or  Point-no-Point,  on 
whose  upper  slope  is  Rockland  Lake,  from  which  New  York  gets  200,000 
tons  of  ice  yearly.  Teller's  (or  Croton)  Point,  with  its  rich  ''ineyards,  is 
now  approached,  and  the  mouth  of  Croton.  River  is  seen.  6  M.  \\\t  this 
river  is  a  dam  210  ft.  lotig,  40  ft.  high,  and  70  ft.  thick  at  the  bottom, 
which  forms  a  lake  of  400  acres  with  40  ft.  of  water  (500,000,000  gallons). 
From  this  point  a  closed  acjueduct  of  stone  and  brick  carnes  the  water 
parallel  with  the  Hudson  fer  nearly  40  M.  to  the  great  reservoirs  in  the 
Ciiutral  lark,  New  York.  The  aqueduct  discharges  60,000,000  gallons 
daily,  with  a  down  grade  of  13^  inches  to  a  mile,  and  the  whole  work  cost 
.$14,000,000. 

The  Highlands  loom  up  boldly  in  front  as  the  steamer  crosses  the 
beautiful  Haverstraw  Bay  to  the  village  of  Ilavcrsirav)  (W.),  with  the  old 
stone  mansion  on  Treason  Hill,  where  Arnold  and  Andre  met.  Abjve  is 
a  line  of  limestone  cliffs  which  have  produced  1,000,000  bushels  of  lime 
yearly.  3  M.  above  (W. )  is  the  l)old  and  picturesque  promontory  of 
Stony  Point,  with  Verplanck's  Point  opposite. 

Both  these  places  were  fortilie  I  early  in  the  Revolution,  and  were  captured  V»y 
the  British  army  in  .June,  177'.>,  indicting  a  severe  blow  on  the  Amcriciii-.s  from 
the  loss  of  such  a  strategii;  itosition.  Stony  Point  was  f<U'tilicd  by  earthworks  and 
abatis,  and  well  garrisoned,  yet  (ieii.  Wayne  bogge<l  permission  to  attack  it,  saying 
to  Washington,  "General,  I'll  storm  hell,  .f  you '11  only  plan  it."  With  two  small 
columns  of  picked  men  (of  the  5th  Penn.  Infantry),  on  the  night  of  July  15th,  Mad 
Anthony  Wayne  carried  the  fort  at  the  jioint  of  the  bayf)net,  under  a  heavy  fire  of 
nmsketry  and  grape-shot.  Wayne  was  shot  in  the  head,  but,  being  borne  into  the 
captured  works,  sof)n  recovered,  and  after  cannomiding  Fort  Fayette,  on  Ver- 
planck's Point,  he  dismantled  and  abandoned  the  fort.  The  lighthouse  stands 
on  the  site  of  the  oM  mag;'/'.ine. 

3  M.  from  Stony  Point  (W. )  is  Caldwell's  Landing,  at  the  foot  of  the  ab- 
rupt and  imposing  Dunderberg  (Thunder  Mt.),  which  was  anciently  be- 
lieved to  be  the  home  of  malicious  imps  who  hurled  fierce  tempests  out  on 
the  river.  Opposite  Dunderberg  is  Peekskill,  at  the  mouth  oi  a  creek  which 
w  as  ascended  long  ago  by  Jan  Peek,  a  Dutch  mariner,  who  was  so  pleased 


344     Rmitc  52. 


WEST  POINT. 


'  ) 


^! 


I  ■ 


■\l 


•  \ 


['I  ( 


with  its  fertile  shores  that  he  named  it  Peek's  Kill,  and  settled  there.  Fort 
Independence  crowned  tlie  hill  above  the  village  during  the  Revolution,  and 
here  Gen,  Putnam  had  his  headquarters,  and  "  tried  as  a  spy,  condcmncil 
as  a  spy,  and  executed  as  a  spy,"  the  Englishman,  E<lmund  Palmer  (1777). 
An  ancient  church  (built  in  1767)  and  the  venerable  Van  Cortlandt 
mansion  are  worthy  of  visiting. 

Bending  to  the  W.  at  Peekskill,  the  Hudson  enters  that  part  of  its 
course  called  tJie  Race,  and  passes  through  the  beautiful  Highlands,  which 
were  conijiared  by  Chateaubriand  to  "  a  largo  bouquet  tii.-d  at  its  base  witli 
azure  ribbon."  From  Peekskill  t  Newburgthe  steamer  passes  through  ;i 
panorama  of  river-scenery  unexcelled  in  the  world.  Dunderberg  on  lliu 
1.  confronts  on  the  r.  Anth(my\H  Nose, 

This  b(  id  liill  (1,12S  ft.  lii^'li)  is  named  after  Anthony  Van  Corlear,  Gov.  Stuyves- 
ant's  tniiiiiu'tcr.  ".lust  at  tiiis  inoineiit  tlio  illustrious  sun,  breaking  in  all  l\is 
splendor  from  hcliiiid  one  of  tlie  liigli  cliHs  of  tlic  Hijihlamls,  did  dart  one  of  liis 
most  i)otent  beams  full  ujion  the  effiilL,'ent  nns(!  of  the  sounder  of  brass.  The 
reflection  of  which  shot  straightway  down,  hissing  hot,  into  the  water,  and  killed 
a  mighty  sturgeon  that  was  sporting  besitje  the  vessel.  When  this  astonishing 
miracle  came  to  be  niatle  known  to  Peter  Stuyve.sant  (the  governor),  he,  as  may 
well  be  supitosed,  marvelled  exceedingly  ;  ancl  as  a  monument  thereof,  gave  the 
name  of  Anthony's  Nose  to  a  stout  promontory  in  the  neigiiborhood." 

^bove  Anthony's  Nose  is  the  romantic  Brockeu  Kill,  while  opposite  is 
the  grape-abounding  lona  Island.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  old  Poplope.i 
Kill,  with  some  remnants  of  Forts  Montgomcrij  (N.)  and  Clinton  (S.),  on 
the  promontories  at  its  mouth.  These  works,  together  with  a  massive 
chain  and  boom  across  the  river,  defended  by  a  fleet  of  gu?iboats,  were 
intended  to  clo.se  the  Hudson  agaiiy^t  the  British.  But  Sir  Henry  Clinton 
advanced  in  Oct.,  1777,  marching  over  the  Dunderberg,  and  after  a  sharp 
skirmish  at  Lake  Sinnij^ink  (still  called  Bloody  Pond)  his  forces  invested 
the  forts.  After  a  long  struggle  in  the  fog,  during  which  the  British  fleet 
moved  up  the  river,  the  overpowered  garrisons  gave  way  and  fled  to  the 
hills,  having  lost  300  men.  The  American  gunboats  were  then  destroyed 
by  their  crews,  and  the  British  broke  away  the  chains  and  ol)struction3  in 
the  river  (which  had  cost  Congress  »$  250,000). 

The  Hudson  now  turns  to  the  N.,  and  Buttermilk  Falls  are  soon  seen  on 
the  1.,  near  which  is  the  fashionable  and  favorite  Cozzens'  Hotel.  1  M. 
above  is  the  U,  S.  Military  Academy  at  West  Point.  This  place  was 
fortified  by  Pansons's  Conn,  brigade  in  1778,  and  was  then  called  "the 
Gibraltar  of  America."  Wasldngton  recommended  the  location  of  a 
national  school  here,  and  in  1812  the  school  was  established,  since  which 
the  officers  of  the  regular  army  have  been  educated  here.  There  are 
barracks  for  the  250  Cadets,  with  riding-school,  chapel,  hospital,  &c.  The 
academy  building  is  an  extensive  stone  structure,  in  Gothic  architecture. 
There  are  various  trophies  (of  artillery,  &c. )  about  the  grounds,  and  a 
library  of  15,000  volumes  in  the  main  building.     Kosciusko's  Garden  is  a 


\ 


XEWBUm;. 


Jioutc  52.     345 


i 


seen  on 

1  M. 

Ice  was 

''  the 

b  of  a 

which 

ire  are 

The 

lecture. 

and  a 

m  is  a 


. 


I 


l)eantifnl  hanging  garden  approached  from  tlie  phaiii  by  Flirtation  Walk, 
and  contahiing  a  marble  monument  to  the  heroic  Poli.sh  chieftain,  who 
was  wont  to  read  and  meditate  here.  Near  the  head  of  Flirta.ion  Walk 
is  a  monimient  to  the  troops  wlio  were  massacred  in  the  Everglades  of 
Florida,  in  1835.  Fmt  Putnam  is  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Indopendence, 
a.vl  commands  fine  views  from  its  ancient  and  ruinous  bastions.  The 
Siefje  Battery  is  a  practical  work  near  the  river.  The  Cadets  are  chosen 
l)y  the  national  Congressmen  and,  after  i-emaining  here  four  years,  enter 
the  U.  S.  Army  Jis  seconddieutenants.  The  discipline  is  very  strict,  and 
(luring  July  and  August  of  each  year  the  corps  goes  into  camp. 

Oi)posite  West  Point  is  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.,  under  whose  sliadow  is  the 
Robinson  House,  Arnold's  head-quarters,  and  the  Beverly  Dook,  whence 
he  escaped  to  the  "  Vulture."  Passing  ("onstitution  Island,  on  the  E.  is 
seen  Cold  Sp.irj,  a  pretty  village  near  which  is  ''  Undercliff,"  the  fonner 
liome  of  the  poet  Morris.  Mt.  Taurus  looms  up  on  the  r.,  and  is  named 
from  a  certain  wild  bull  who  was  once  the  terror  of  the  countryside,  until 
he  was  hunted  out  and  broke  liis  neck  on  the  next  hill  (X.),  since  called 
Breakneck  Hill  (1,187  ft.  higli).  On  the  W.  bank,  just  above  West  Point, 
is  CVo'-iVe«<  (1,418  ft.  high),  which  is  sei)arated  from  Boterberjj  by  the 
picturesque  Vale  of  Tenq)e,  whei"e  some  part  of  the  scene  of  "  The  Culprit 
Fay  "  is  laid.  Boterberg  (otherwise  called  Butter  Hill  and  Stonn  King) 
is  a  bold  and  imposhig  mountain  1,529  ft.  high,  at  whose  northern  slope 
is  the  pretty  village  of  Cornwall.  "  Idlewild,''  the  home  of  N.  P.  Willis, 
i;  tear  Cornwall,  beyond  which  the  decadent  village  of  New  Windsor  is 
seen. 

Newburg  {Orange  Hotel)  is  a  1)usy  city  of  over  15,000  inhabitants,  built 
on  tlie  steep  slope  of  a  higli  hill,  and  showing  finely  from  tlie  river.  There 
are  many  pretty  villas  on  the  heights,  and  a  few  very  neat  churclies,  while 
tlie  water-front  is  lined  with  warehouses.  The  city  has  somo  manufac- 
tories, and  a  considerable  country  trade,  while  imnnnse  quantities  of  coal 
are  brought  here  from  Pennsylvania  (by  a  branch  of  the  Erie  Railway 
running  up  the  Quassaic  Valley  to  Greycourt,  19  M.  distant),  and  shipped 
to  all  parts  of  the  H'dson  Valley. 

S.  of  Ncwhurg  is  the  old  Hasbrnnck  Mnnsinn,  an  antique  stone  house  which 
was  Wasliini,'ton's  liea(l-<iuartors  in  1783,  wliile  the  Continental  army  was  oncami)e(l 
li(!ieto  watch  the  liritisli  at  Now  York.  Certain  liigli  oHiceis  of  tiic  army,  dou'ot- 
iiij^tiie  feasibility  of  a  roimblic,  circulated  a-.i  address  to  that  effect,  and  (indirectly) 
offered  to  make  Wasliinuton  King  of  America.  The  noble  Virginian  spurned  tlie 
proposal,  anil  after  he  had  delivered  au  cirnest  address  to  a  couueil  of  otlicers  tiiey 
resolved  unauiuiously,  "  That  the  oflieiMs  of  th(^  American  army  view  with  abhor- 
rence, and  reject  with  disdaiu,  the  infamous  proposition  contained  in  a  late  auony- 
nious  address  to  the  ulliccrs  of  the  army." 

A  steam-ferry  crosses  the  river  from  Newburg  to  Fishkill-on-the-Hud- 
son,  on  a  fertile  plain  N.  of  the  S.  Beacon  Hill  (from  which  noble  views 
are  afforded ).     The  manufacturing  village  of  Matteawan  is  about  1^  M. 
15* 


rr'Tc 


•  } 


I 


346    Route  52. 


POUGIIKEEPSIE. 


distant,  and  the  ancient  Dutch  town  of  Fishkili  is  5  M.  to  the  E.  2  M. 
N.  E.  of  the  river  village  (the  Landing)  in  the  Verphmck  IIou.se,  once  the 
head-quarters  of  Baron  Steuben,  and  the  placo  where  the  Society  of  tlio 
Cincinnati  was  formed  (in  1783).  As  tlie  steamer  passes  N,,  there  are  line 
retrospects  of  Boterl)er}i:,  Breakneck  Hill,  and  the  Matteawan  antl  Shawan- 
gunk  Mts.  On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  the  village  of  Low  Point,  is  a  rocky 
platform  which  was  named  "the  Devil's  Dance-Chamber"  by  Hendrick 
Hudson,  after  seeing  there  a  midnight  pnw-wow  of  painted  Indians. 

But  Knirkcrbockor,  <lescribiii}:;  Gov.  Stnyvesiint's  voyage,  says,*  "  Even  now  I 
have  it  or  tlio  i)oiiit  of  my  ]ici)  to  iclatt!,  how  his  rrew  was  most  horribly  frij^'lit- 
enc.'d,  on  ^'oing on  shore  above llio  IIij;hian(ls,  l>yaganf,'of  merry,  roystoring devils, 
frisking  and  curvoting  on  a  huge  Hat  rock  wliich  jirojected  into  the  river,  and 
whicli  is  called  the  iJuyvell'a  Dans  Kamer  to  this  very  day." 

New  Handnirg,  and  Barnegat  (on  the  E.  shore),  Hampton,  Marlborough, 
and  Milton  (on  the  W.  shore),  are  small  river-villages,  which  are  passed 
during  the  next  15  M.  Foughkeepsie  {Moryan  Ilonsc)  is  a  city  of  17,(K)0 
iidiabitants,  situated  on  the  E.  bank,  75  M.  from  New  York.  It  was 
settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1698,  and  its  name  is  derived  from  the  Indian 
Apokeepsing  ("safe  liarbor").  It  is  situated  on  a^plateau  above  the 
r'ver,  and  has  Pome  good  public  buildings  and  famous  schools,  with  a 
large  and  Jucrative  country  trade  from  the  rich  farm-lands  of  Dutchess 
County.  About  2  M.  from  the  city  (horse-cars  run  all  the  way)  is  Vassar 
College,  the  largest  and  most  renowned  female  college  in  the  world.  It 
occupies  a  range  of  imposing  biuldings  secluded  amid  extensive  grounds, 
and  has  about  400  students,  who  pursue  the  higher  classical  and  scientific 
studies,  and  receive  degrees  in  due  form.  Among  the  distinguished  resi- 
dents of  Poughkeepsie  are  Benson  J.  Lossing,  the  historian  ;  A.  J.  Davis, 
the  head  of  the  Spiritualist  sect  (sometimes  called  *'  The  Poughkeepsie 
Seer") ;  and  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse  (died  in  1872),  one  of  the  orighiators 
of  the  electric  telegraph.  •  i 

Ncio  Pallz  is  opposite  Poughkeepsie,  and  5  M.  above  (E.)  is  the  hand- 
some village  of  Hyde  Park,  named  after  Sir  Edmund  Hyde,  a  near  rela- 
tive of  Queen  Anne,  Avho  was  an  early  Governor  of  New  York.  This  land 
was  bought  and  named  by  his  private  seti  jtary.  The  village  is  near  a 
sharp  bend  in  tlie  river,  called  by  Dutch  "  Krom  Elleboge  "  (crooked 
elbow),  and  now  known  as  Crom  Elbow.  1  M.  above  is  "  Placentia,"  the 
former  home  of  James  K.  Paulding,  the  essayist  and  satirist,  and  Secre- 
tary of  the  U.  S.  Navy  (1839-41).  The  river-banks  are  now  low  and  un- 
picturesque,  but  an  air  of  rich  rural  peace  pervades  the  country-side,  and 
handsome  villas  are  seen  on  the  banks,  Astor's  mansion  (W,),  Esopus 
Island,  and  Staatsburg  (E. )  are  passed,  with  the  majestic  blue  peaks  of 
the  Catskills  drawing  nearer  on  the  N.  Port  Eiven  and  Rondout,  on  the 
W.,  are  busy  towns,  with  large  foreign  populations  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  cement  and  the  transfer  of  coal,  which  is  brought  here  in  im- 


r 


1 1 


CLEUMONT. 


Route  52.     347 


mouse  quantities  over  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal.  2  M.  iidaiid,  on 
Esopus  Creek,  is  Kingston,  which  was  settletl  by  the  Huguenots  in  1G()5, 
and  was  sacked  and  burned  by  Gen.  Vaughan,  with  3,000  British  troops, 
in  1777.  The  first  constitution  of  New  York  was  formed  in  a  legislative 
session  at  Kingston  (1777),  and  here  Vanderlyn,  the  artist,  was  bom 
(1776).  Opposite  Rondout  is  Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson,  2  M.  from  the 
old  village  which  was  founded  by  William  Beekman  in  1647.  He  came 
from  the  RhinelaiYd,  and  named  his  settlement  for  himself  and  his  old 
home  river.  S.  of  the  Landing  is  "  Wildercliff,"  the  former  estate  of  the 
eminent  Methodist,  Freeborn  Garretson,  Above  this  place  is  "Ellerslie," 
the  home  of  the  Hon.  Wm.  Kelly  (the  estate  fronts  for  l.Ji  iM.  on  the 
river),  while  near  the  Landing  is  the  old  fortress-mansion  cf  the  Beek- 
mans  (built  of  stone,  in  the  17th  century).  Above  Rhinebeck  is  "  Roke- 
by,"  W.  B.  Astor's  residence,  which  was  built  by  Gen.  Armstrong,  Secre- 
tary of  War  1813-14  ;  and  "  Montgomery  Place,"  the  Livint^stons'  man- 
sion, built  by  Gen.  Montgomery's  widow  (a  Livingston).  Above  Barry- 
town  is  the  estate  of  "  Annandale,"  and  in  the  groves  of  Cn  ger's  Island 
(near  th*^  W.  shore),  is  a  picturesque  and  truly  ancient  ruin,  which  was 
imported  from  Italy  some  years  since.  Near  Annandale  is  an  elegant 
little  chapel,  and  St.  Stephen's  Coller/e  (Episcopal),  endowed  by  Mr.  Bard, 
the  owner  of  the  estate.  Barry  town  and  Tivoli  are  the  landings  for  the 
antiquated  inland  towns  of  Lower  and  Upper  Red  Hook.  Opjiosite  Tivoli 
(which  has  the  old  De  Peyster  Mansion)  is  the  flourishing  factory -village 
of  Sauf/erties.  at  the  mouth  of  Esopus  Creek,  and  2  M.  above  is  Maiden. 
Opposite  Maiden  is  Clermont,  the  home  of  the  patrician  family  of 
Livingstoii  (descended  from  the  Earls  of  Linlithgow),  which  his  had  such 
great  influence  in  New  York  State.  The  old  manor  was  abo>-e  German- 
town,  and  Chancellor  Livingston  built  a  new  one  on  the  site  o'  Clermont, 
but  Vaughan's  British  raiders  destroyed  both  houses  (in  1777).  New 
ones  were  soon  erected,  and  the  Chancellor,  being  appointed  i'lUibassador 
to  France,  met  Robert  Fulton  in  Paris,  and  became  deeply  interested  in 
the  new  theories  of  steam  navigation.  In  1787  John  Fitcl,  built  and 
worked  a  steamboat  at  Philadelphia,  and  in  1789  one  had  botn  operated 
on  the  Clyde  (near  Glasgow),  luit  both  inventors  had  given  up  the  id«;.i 
of  the  feasibility  of  steam  navigation.  In  1807  Livingston  and  Fulton 
built  a  steamboat  in  New  York,  called  the  "Clermont "  (but  popularly 
termed  *' Fulton's  Folly"),  which  ascended  the  Hudson  to  Albany  in  32 
hours,  to  the  great  amazement  of  all  the  people. 

The  Catsklll  Mts.  arc  now  seen  in  the  W.,  with  tlie  faiufuisiyfonntain  House 
far  up  on  one  of  tlicir  i)eaks,  white  as  a  snow-ilrift.  From  the  villa^M  of  Catdlll 
(with  its  superb  Pruspoct  Park  Hotel  overlooking  the  river)  fieiiuent  stages  run 
to  the  Mountain  House  (in  3-4  In-s.  ;  fare,  -S'J.flO),  passing  through  Sleepy 
Hollow,  where  Kip  Van  Winkle  is  sai<l  to  have  taken  Ills  20  year.-' nap.  Tlie 
Mountain  House  is  near  the  edge  of  a  cliff,  2,'J12  ft.  al)ov(>  the  river,  and  roui- 
Uiauds  a  *  *  view  extending  over  10,000  equare  miles,  embracing  puts  of  lour 


I'  V 


348    Route  52, 


ALBANY. 


I" ' 


1 


States,  GO  M.  of  tlit>  ITiulson  Valley,  the  dislnnt  fitifsof  Albany  and  Troy,  aii<l  tlin 
surroniidiii;^' pfakH  of  tin- CaiskillH.  Tin- Hoiitli  and  Noitli  iMts.,  tlic  Two  I,akeH 
and  1li(!  Hi^li  FallH,  and  tlin  Stony,  (.'autrrskill,  and  rianterkill  ('Iov«'h  (notcliOH) 
Hliould  l)c  visited,  'i'lu'ic  are  other  lioteh  among  the  nits.,  nn<l  Une  lishin^;  is 
fonnd  on  thr  remote  streams.  The  small  villa;4eof  i-o/c/ntV/r  lias  several  hojinlju^. 
houses,  miieh  visited  by  artists.  Amid  this  seenery  lived  and  laborecl  Thomas 
Cole,  tjie  jiainter  of  the  three  series  of  impre.ssive  alle;;orieal  pictnres  rei>rcsentin^ 
"  The  (.'onrse  of  Kmpire,"  "  The  Vfiyap-  of  Life,"  and  "Tho  Crussnud  the  World  " 
(the  latter  was  left  in<(»mplete  at  his  death). 

4  M.  above  Catskill,  on  tli(3  E.  bank,  is  Hudson  {  Worth  IIovsc),  a  liand- 
some  city  on  a  liigh  promontory,  witli  a  fine  riverside  avonne  called  the 
Promenade,  leading  to  tlie  toj)  of  Prospectt  Hill  (200  ft.  high)  which  looks 
over  on  the  Catskills.  The  city  was  founded  by  30  Quakers  from  Provi- 
dence, in  1784,  and  now  contains  13,000  in^.abitant.s.  It  is  at  the  head  of 
ship  navigation,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Hudson  and  Boston  Ilailroail 
(to  Chatham).  The  njarble  Court-Hou.se  of  (.Vdunibia  County  is  located 
here,  and  there  are  several  very  neat  churches  in  the  city,  f)  M.  N.  aro 
the  Coluvifna  Siil2}hur  Sprivcjs,  with  a  large  hotel  and  a  pictures(]ue  lake, 
while  New  Lebanon  (see  page  140)  is  often  visited  from  this  point.  A 
steam-ferry  leads  from  Hu(l,son  to  tlu'  small  village  of  Athens,  whence  a 
branch  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad  diverg  s  to  Sclu'necta<ly.  4  M.  N. 
is  Four  Mile  Point,  with  its  lighthouse,  opposite  Kinderhook  Landing,  5 
M.  from  Kinderhook,  where  Martin  Van  Buren,  8th  President  of  the  IT. 
S.,  was  born,  and  where  he  died,  on  his  estate  of  "  Ijindenwald."  Cox- 
sackie  is  a  rambling  village  on  the  W.  shore,  and  New  Baltimore  and 
Schodac  are  soon  passed.  Above  New  Baltimore  and  near  the  W.  shore 
is  Beeren  Island,  on  whose  rocky  summit  once  stood  the  castle  of  Rens- 
selaerstein,  pertaining  to  Killian  Van  Rensselaer,  the  Patroon  of  Albany. 
The  Helderberg  Mts.  are  seen  in  the  W.  as  the  steamer  passes  Coeyman's; 
Castleton  is  then  passed,  on  the  E.  ;  the  immense  and  costly  national 
dikes  are  seen  .stretching  along  the  shore  ;  and  the  populous  hills  of  Al- 
bany are  ra]>i<lly  approached. 

Albany  (*  Delnran  House.  ;  Stamoix  Hall),  the  capital  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  is  a  prosperous  commercial  city  at  the  confluence  of  the  Erie 
and  Champlain  Canals  and  the  Hudson  River,  144  M.  from  New  York 
City.  It  has  over  70,000  inhabitants,  and  is  famed  for  its  extensive  brew- 
eries and  cattle-yards,  while  the  workshops  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad 
employ  over  1,000  men.  Vast  quantities  of  Western  produce  pass  to  and 
through  Albany  by  means  of  th  Erie  Canal,  which  has  here  a  great  ter- 
minal l)asin  shielded  by  a  breakwater  SO  ft.  wide  and  4,300  ft.  long.  The 
Susquehanna  R.  R.  (from  Binghampton;  142  M,),  the  N.  Y.  Central  R. 
R.  (from  Buffalo— -297  M. — and  the  West),  and  the  Rensselaer  and 
Saratoga  R.  R.  (from  Saratoga,  Rutland,  and  Lake  Champlain)  converge 
here  from  the  W.  and  N.,  and  are  united  by  a  double-tracked  bridge  of 
stone  and  iron  (J  M.  long  ;  costing  $1,150,000)  to  the  great  railway  lines 
running  S.  and  E.  beyond  the  Hudson.     The  city  receives  its  water-supply 


1 


A  I.HAN*  V. 


Honte  5i.     349 


f  Al- 

0  of 
Erie 
York 
irew- 
rOtid 
and 
ter- 
The 
III  R. 
and 
srgc 
of 
lines 
pply 


from  Hi-nssehu-'r  l^uke  (5  M.  W. ),  liy  a  tine  systom  of  works  wliioh  cost 
over  8  1,000,000.  State  St.  runs  from  tlie  business  district  near  the  river 
to  the  vicinity  of  tln^  pleasant  sfpuire  on  tlie  liill,  which  is  surrounded  by 
public  buildin},'s.  On  tl»e  W.  is  tlie  Capitol,  a  phiin  and  ratlier  dingy  old 
building,  alongside  of  which  is  the  large  hotel  called  Congress  llall.  On 
tlii^  E.  of  the  sfjnare  are  the  tine  marble  buildings  of  the  State  House  and 
the  City  Hall.  The  .Slate  Libnay  {()0,0U0  volumes)  adjoins  the  Capitol, 
and  just  lu'yond  are  seen  the  slowly  rising  marble  walls  of  the  new  Slate 
Capitol,  which  is  to  bo  a  vast  and  inij)osing  structure  in  Renaissance 
architecture,  crowning  one  of  the  highest  hills  of  Albany,  and  visible  for 
leagues  up  and  down  the  river.  The  Catholic  Cathedral  of  tin;  Immac- 
ulate Conce{)tion  is  a  well-tinished  and  costly  building,  on  Eagle  St.,  with 
f.ir  famed  stained-glass  windows;  and  the  spacious  Gothic  Church  of  St. 
Joseph,  on  Ten  Broeck  St.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  The  State  Arsenal 
isa  strong  castellated  building  on  Eagle  St.,  near  some  liandsome  churches. 
H  M.  S.  W.  of  the  city  are  the  buildings  of  the  Almshouse,  Insane 
Asylum,  Fever  IIosi)itaI,  an<l  Industrial  School,  all  on  one  large  farm. 
Tliere  are  several  other  charitable  institutions  about  Albany,  and  there 
are  numerous  i)ublic  and  private  schools  of  a  high  grade.  The  Medical 
College  and  the  renowned  Law  ochool  of  the  University  of  Albany  are  on 
Eagle  St.,  and  the  collections  in  natural  history  and  geology  (on  State  St.) 
should  be  seen.  On  a  hill  in  the  N,  part  of  the  city,  is  the  Dudley  Obser- 
ndory,  richly  endoweil  by  Mrs.  Dudley,  and  furnished  with  a  costly 
collection  of  astrononnoal  instruments  and  books.  In  the  same  part 
is  the  Van  Rensselaer  Manor  House  and  its  j>ark,  an  interesting  old 
building  on  the  site  first  occupied  by  Kilian  Van  Rensselaer,  I'atroou 
of  IJeverwyk.  This  gentleman  received  from  the  Dutch  king,  in  1637,  a 
patent,  covering  about  l,i50  scpiare  miles,  end)racing  most  of  the  present 
counties  of  Albany,  Rensselaer,  and  Columbia,  and  here  ho  ruled  in  feudal 
state.  The  fannly  has  ever  since  remained  powerful  and  wealthy.  The 
Schuyler  House  is  another  ancient  mansion  above  the  city,  which  was 
built  by  Col.  Peter  Schuyler,  a  distinguished  colonial  leader  in  the  17tU 
century. 

Albany  was  foimded  by  the  Dutch  in  1614,  and  in  1G23  a  fort  was  built  and 
naiiieil  Fort  Oruni^e.  The  settlement  was  called  Beverwyk,  or  Willia.  istadt,  and 
ill  IWj-l,  when  the  British  took  the  ]>liue,  it  was  uaiiied  Albany  iu  honor  of 
the  Critiah  crown-prince,  James,  Duke  of  York  and  Albany.  It  was  then  sur- 
rounded by  tiniber-svalls,  with  six  gates,  parts  of  which  were  standing  in  1812. 
In  IGSO  the  city  was  chartered,  and  in  1708  it  becauje  the  capital  of  the  State.  A 
provincial  congress,  which  met  liere  iu  17J4,  formed  such  a  plan  of  union  for  the 
colonies  that  concerted  ai.'tion  was  i)ossih)le  when  later  events  required  it.  Since 
tlie  construction  of  the  Erie  and  Chaiui)laiu  Canals  and  the  great  systems  of  rail- 
roads which  converge  here,  Albany  has  continued  to  increase  in  wealth  and  pros- 
perity. The  new  State  Capitol  (now  buihling)  will  be  the  finest  Renaissance 
structure  in  America,  and  will  cost  .■?  7-10, OOO.uuO. 


IW)   Rouh'  ns. 


ALIIANV   TU   MONTKKAL. 


' 


'! 


63.  Albany  to  Montreal 

Hy  tlio  Retisst'lacr  ami  Sara(o';/i  Uuili-oad,  niiiiiiiig  N.  ftiuu  Allmny  to  Sarnloga 
Kpriii^s,  Wlillfliall,  aii<l  HiillaiKl. 

Soon  afttT  leaving'  tliu  city,  the  Rural  rcnu'tory  is  pasard,  and  tlic  train 
rrachcs  IT.  Troj/^  the  scat  of  tlu'  Niitioiial  Arsenal  of  Watcrvlict  with  its 
HO  Imiltlin^'H  uiiil  lUO  ucn.'s  of  kioiuhIs.  On  the  E.  is  seen  Troy  {Am'-riran 
J/iiit.se  ;  AhntsidH  Ilousf),  a  llouri.sliint^  city  of  nearly  r)t>,0()()  inlialiitants, 
hituateil  on  an  alluvial  plain  (>  M.  N.  of  Alltany.  It  is  an  important  mil- 
road-centre,  and  lias  many  large  nnmufactories  (iron  foundries,  cotton  ar.il 
woollen  <,'oods,  cars,  Ik'ssenu'r  steel,  itc.)  fronting  on  the  Hudson.  Tho 
Troy  Hospital,  Marshall  InJirmary,  Orphan  Asylums,  and  Warren  Free 
Institute  are  the  jirineipal  charitahlc  foundations  ;  while  the  Rensselaer 
Polytechnic  Institute  and  other  lino  aca<lemies  attest  the  intelligence  of 
the  citizens.  The  streets  are  wide  und  well  paved,  and  the  marl)le  Court 
House  and  the  line  churches  (notaMy  those  of  St.  l*aul  and  St.  John)  are 
worthy  of  attention.  The  city  is  built  near  the  luouth  of  the  I'oestenkill, 
and  is  overlooked  by  Mounts  Ida  ami  Olympus.  St.  I'eter's  College  is 
.seen  upon  the  heij/hls,  and  is  a  (^atholic  institution  of  high  grade  and  wide 
reputation.  Troy  was  founded  by  men  of  New  England,  and  bei-ame  a 
city  in  181G.  In  18(52  fidl  forty  ucres  of  its  settled  portion  was  burnt 
over,  causing  a  loss  of  .§  .'5,00(1,000. 

Beyond  W.  Troy  the  tiain  i)as.ses  Cvhues,  a  largo  manufactming  town 
ut  the  Falls  of  the  Mohawk  River,  3  M.  above  whi>  li  the  Erie  Canal 
crosses  the  river  in  a  stone  acpieduct  1,137  ft.  long,  resting  on  2G  i>iers. 
The  train  now  crosses  the  Moliawk,  ami  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Hudson 
to  Mechanicsville,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  W.  Stations,  Round  Lake 
(near  the  celebrated  Methodist  canii)-ground)  and  Ballston,  whose  mineral 
waters  were  formerly  much  visited.  There  are  several  line  springs,  the 
most  valuable  of  which  is  known  as  the  Lithia  Spring.  7  M.  beyond 
Ballston  the  train  reaches  the  village  of 

Saratii^'i  Springs. 

Hotels.  —  The  **  Grand  Union  hotel  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  has  a 
frontage  (ini  Hntadway)  of  l.lUJt  ft.,  with  1  M.  of  ]iiazziis,  2  M.  of  halls,  l,"?  acres  of 
carpets  and  marble  tiooriug,  S24  rooms,  1,474  dooi-s,  1,891  windows,  and  accom- 
modations lor  over  1,200  guests.  *"  Coni,'ress  Ilall  is  o]ii)osite  the  Grand  Union, 
and  has  1,01(5  ft.  of  frontage  (on  three  streets),  with  broad  piazzas,  roof-]>roiiie- 
nades,  and  superb  parlors.  This  house  was  built  in  1808,  and  is  of  an  imposing 
form  of  architecture.  Tiie  *  Grand  Central  Hotel  is  on  Broadway,  opjiosite  Con- 
gress Hall,  and  is  a  sujjerb  house,  with  over  700  ft.  frontage,  and  0;')0  rooms.  The 
*  Clarendon  is  an  aristocratic  resort  amid  stately  elm-groves  o])jtosite  Congress 
Park.  ItaeeonnnodatesiJOO  guests.  The  American  (on  Broadway) aceonunodates 
350  guests  :  the  Marvin  House  (corner  Bi-oadway  and  Division  Streets),  250  ;  tho 
Continental,  200  ;  the  Columbian,  200.  Besides  tlio.se  above-nanu>d,  there  are  42 
hotels  in  and  near  the  village,  together  with  several  great  water-cure  establish- 
ments under  the  care  of  experienced  doctors,  and  many  (piiet  and  inexpensive 


SAUAT()(JA   Hl'l:rN(!S. 


/{ontcSJ.     351 


town 
'anul 
)iers. 
ilsou 
Lake 
iiieral 
S  the 
■voud 


las  a 

res  of 

::com- 

'iiiun, 

rome- 

•osing 

Coii- 

Tlie 

jii-csa 

dates 

tlio 

re  4 'J 

l)lish- 

iisive 


loMplinu  Ii'inst's  Tilt' ••limv't'H  at  tin.*  priiiiipal  luitfls  art*  91  '>0-noo  a  <l.iy.  <>r 
I J.V  -W  iM)  a  wi-ek.  while  every  variety  nf  |irirc  ami  aeeniiiiiiiiilaUoi!  nmy  W  \U\\\\\\ 
aiieMi;;  tlii.>  hiu.illi  i  Ii<i|i>|h.  I'U.aHaiit  <|ii(it('irt  iiiuy  Ik:  IoiiihI  in  IIh-  liuanhn;;- 
liouseH  fi'i'  irniii  s  III  tii>i'JO  a  wei'k. 

C'nrrlnK*'>*>  '"<"<'.  eaeli  pasMfii;,'!  rfor  a  cHurHc  williiu  tlir  IhhiikI^)  of  tln' vi'lnxe 
flKu^ii-i'  ixli  i).     A  cDiirliiiiMii  ami  span  may  I'f  limil  Inr  .^T.'.ii.)  ;i  muntli. 

^liiii*u*lii<'iltH. —  'I'lie  n|.i'ra  llniisc,  atfa^lieil  In  tlic  (Iiajhl  Inii'ii  IF'Mme, 
sealH  I,  iiM»  pciNuiiK.  llieie  are  iii^lilly  Imps  id  llie  ele.;,iiit  liall  riiiniiH  attarlied  to 
tJM'  tiiii'i-i  liief  iiotelH,  am  1^1  a  IK  I  iiallsnm  e  a  wt  ek  at  ea<  li  ol  tlieM-  liniiseH.  (iiiestil 
p.tv  ><  I  f>ir  ailiiiiHsidii  ta  tilt'  liails,  wliieli  are  tlie  iiiip>,t  liillliaiit  on  the  ('Diitineiit. 
'Die  UaeeB  eniim  oir  ill  .Inly  anil  An;,'nst  (seeoml  wetk),  on  one  ol"  flie  licst  of  tlio 
Aiiierii  an  laec  (onrsfs  (I  M.  lium  ('nn^;reHs  Spring;).  'I'lie  suirti'.>t  Imrses  are 
ciitereil  at  these  fnimiiiH  eiintc->ts,  anil  sonii'  of  the  most  ri'inarkaltif  raics  of  thn 
past  (leende  have  lakfii  plaic  here,  Miisie  is  (lisconiieil  hy  liamis  eonm-itcil  with 
till'  leitds,  several  timi  .s  ilai'y,  an.i  promenades  take  place  iu  the  paiks,  pailor.s, 
and  pia/zas. 

C'liiirrlu>M« — The  Methodist  and  the  Kpiseojtal  SocietieH  have  due  lMiililinj,'H 
on  \Vashin.;ton  St.,  near  the  (irami  Unniii.  The  iSaptist.  (  liiirrh  is  on  the  same 
Mtii'i't.  and  tile  I'resliyterian  Ciiiinli  is  on  Mpper  Uroadway.  "  !ie  (.'atliolies  meet 
at  tlieir  ehnnh  on  S.  Uroadway  (near  tlm  (  laiemlon),  and  the  (.'oiiKrej,'atioiialisN 
meet  on  I'lula.St.  (over  the  I'ost-UIIke),  The  V.  M.  C.  A.  leading-voom  and  hall 
Ih  on  Phil  I  St. 

OiniilbiiHeH  run  freipn-ntly  to  the  s]inn;^'H  lieyoml  the  villa^'e  liinitM,  mid  to 
Jsar.ilM-.i  LaUe.     A  small  strainer  plies  on  the  lalce. 

RtillrondH.  I'rom  Huston  to  Saiato;.ia  !>>  Iloutes  '.'•-'  and  rilJ  ;  hy  Route  1!') ; 
hy  UiMiti's  •_'<!  and  JS  (the  favoritt;  route,  through  trains  in  1)  his.)  From  New 
Yolk  Ity  Ihiou'^li  express  (wilhoiiLt  haii^e)  on  tlie  Hudson  Hiver  llailroad,  in  .'ji  hr.s. 
nsa  M."):  or  hy  Uoute  .'.'J  to  Alliany,  and  tln'iiee  liy  Uoule  :.:!.  Sarato^M  is  :{S  M. 
from  Alhiiny :  TtX  M,  Inmi  Phil  idelpliia  :  4l'_'  M.  t'rom  Wasldn^'ton  ;  sil  M.  Iroin 
Cliieaj^o  ;  ;1M2  M.  IVom  Qmdiee  ;  ;ill  .M.  from  Nia.i4aiii  ;  Vt  M.  from  l.ake  Cliani- 
itlaiii  ;  and  '_','J!>2  M.  from  New  Orleans.  The  Adirondaek  Hailioad  (station  o» 
Wasliinj,'t()ii  St.)  runs  X.  from  .Sarato-a  to  North  Creek  {bl  .M.). 

8ar;ito};u  Springs,  one  of  tlic  fnieniost  of  Uie  siiniiiier-resorts  of  America 
and  of  tlie  world,  i.s  situiitecl  in  Eastciii  New  York,  iilxnit  iiiiilway  ludween 
Albany  and  liake  George.  Like  Newport  by  tlie  .sea,  it  is  often  ealled 
"  the  (Jiteeii  of  American  wateriiig-i)lace.s,"  and  this  dual  sov<;reigiity  is 
generally  neknowledgcil.  The  village  is  situated  on  a  itlaleaii  a  few  M. 
W.  of  the  Hudson  River,  and  has  a  re.sideiit  jjopulation  of  al)(uit  9,000, 
The  hotel  systetn  of  Saratoga  is  unrivull('(l  elscwlieie  in  the  world,  and 
although  ecpial  to  the  aceoiiiiuodation  of  1(J-1S,000  gue.sts,  it  is  taxed  to 
its  utmost  cajiacity  during  the  month  of  Augu.st  (the  season  opens  early 
in  June).  Broadway  is  the  main  .street,  and  extends  for  several  nules, 
with  the  chief  hotels  near  its  centre  and  a  succession  of  costly  villas  be- 
youd,  Circular  St.  and  Lake  Ave.  art  also  famed  for  their  elegant  sum- 
mer-residences, while  large  medical  establishments  and  boarding-houses 
are  found  ou  the  (juieter  side-streets.  The  village  is  at  its  brightest  in 
August,  when  it  is  thronged  by  visitors  from  all  i)arts  of  the  rejiublic  and 
from  Europe,  -while  over  3,000  private  carriages,  together  with  the  caval- 
eades  from  the  public  livery-stable.s,  join  in  the  jiaraile  of  fashion  on 
Broadway  and  the  Boulevard,  Although  the  greater  part  of  the  visitors 
come  from  the  central  Atlantic  States,  the  number  from  beyond  that  dis- 
trict is  still  so  great  as  to  give  a  continental  or  even  a  cosmoiiolitan  llavor 
to  the  summer  .society.     The  merry  music  of  the  bands,  the  regular  pro- 


302    JioutcO.i, 


SAKATO(J.\    sri{IN(iH. 


V   , 


l> 


fi! 


,.4. 

.1 


ooKsions  of  I'li'^Miit  I'uniiigt's  oil  llii.'  fnvoriU'  diivcs,  tlic  ciowds  f^Mtliciiiig 
;\ltont  tlic  spiiiigs  ,\l  llic  lasliioiialilt'  !ioiivs  I'oi  MiiiiUinji.  tlic  luillinnt  liojis 
aiiil  tilt'  world  n'liowiit  d  li;ills  ,i1.  the  _i';i;Mid  Iiclrls,  and  llic  siirgiii"^  of  tho 
iMullitiidc  lo\var«l  llic  raiho.id  .slalion  ;il  Hit'  liiiictif  llu'  iiicoiuiii;;  tniiuH, 
fiiviiisii  ciulli'ss  ri'somri's  lor  Dltsi-rvalitin  and  aniuscMK'ni. 

Congress  Park  is  a  ]  Icasan!  ukuhuI  for  a  raniMt',  aiitl  con^isf^  of  a 
low  litlgv  swi'tpiufA  ii'iuiiid  the  ('(ingress  ami  ( 'oliiniliian  springs.  It  is 
o|>lio.sili>  the  «'lu"f  Iit)l«'ls,  and  is  well  laiil  out  in  paths,  ainl  ailorni'd  witli 
many  of  tlu' great  elms  w hit  li  an'  tin-  only  natural  Iieautics  tti  lie  Immd 
ii;  Saratoijii.  N.  of  the  Taik  is  tin-  l)uli<ni  Cifvi/),  wlicn^  a  Itand  ol  Kirncli 
half  lireetls  aiul  Indians  t  ncnnip  tlurin^  the  snninici,  earryiiifj;  on  a  litera- 
ti\o  trade  in  he;-  'work,  h.iskt'ls,  moerasiiis,  aiitl  other  small-wares.  The 
('ill  niar  Railway  is  near  the  eanip.  aiul  is  supposetl  to  allortl  visitors  r* 
heiielit  ial  exercise.  A  litlK'  way  lteyt>iiil  the  canip  (on  the  r.  side  of  Cir- 
eulai  SI. )  is  the  jioiudar 'reinidv  (Jitue  Seininarv .  whose  line  Imiltliiig  is 
used  tlnriiij);  the  snninu'r  as  a  lt(>artlin,l^llonse  lor  families  On  ihe  same 
street,  ami  just  hcyond  tlu'  Seminary,  is  the  Dis.  SIrone's  Inslilnte  (100 
I'uests)  tor  the  pratliee  t)f  Ihe  water,  vaennm,  ami  movement  cures. 
Ahout  1  M.  N.  of  the  I'aik  (on  IJroailway)  is  the  raee-eourse  and  liotol  at 
('icn  .)fi/c/irn.  with  linely  arraiejeil  jironmls  ainl  shady  i;roves. 

The  iiiiiicr.il  spriii:,;s  rise  in  ,i  stratnni  nf  PotMl.iiii  siiiiilstcnie  near  a  .ureat  hrcak 
ei  lissnn' in  t)ie  sti.ita  iuuli'rl.\  iii.u  tlie  N;ii;il.i^,i  N'alley.  ami  reach  llie  siirl'aee  l)y 
(i.issiii^;  tliroii,i;li  a  lif.l  el'  lihie  ci.iy.  Must  el'  I  lie  spiiir^s  are  nwiii'tl  by  slock  eeiji- 
jiaiiies.  (iin>  of  wliit  li  li;is  ;i  t  a]tital  efs  l.diKi.iKie.  and  t  tmlnils  llic  t'oii^ress.  ("tiltim- 
ii;aii,  ainl  I'liiipiii'  Spnn.us  'I'lu'  )iroi  ess  el  Imriii;',  arlcsi.in  wells  lias  liceii  iiitro- 
iliiei'il  with  iiiucli  |iielit,  and  seme  el' the  iiinsi  \,iluMlile  ef  the  ne.v  sources  have 
I'.'en  tliseovcii-d  in  that  way.  limiieiise  iiuaiilities  ol'  the  waters  are  sent  away  to 
all  parts  el'tlu'  Iniletl  Slates,  fur  the  treatiuenl,  of  invalids  at.  Iitiim>.  tlni'.i;;li  the 
inm-ess  of  liottliui;  and  pacKiii;:  is  dilliciill  aiivl  eestly.  In  the  year  IScid,  ;i(iO,(K)(i 
'..oltles  were  sent  away  from  llu'  I'^nipire  Spiiii;.'  alone.  The  |>rincipal  iiij;redioiits 
of  the  waters  are  carlioiiic  acid  and  s.ill.  with  lii  carl.oiiales  of  !ime,  ina;.;iiesia, 
s.hI.i.  iron,  and  lilliia,  of  wliich  the  vaiyiiij;  proiioilions  cause  lli(>  peculiar  eliar- 
aeteristies  ol'  the  diHerent  spriiiLis.  The  visitor  may  freely  drink  at  any  of  the 
sourn's,  the  water  hoiiiL;  <li]iiied  nji  liy  lioys  (In  whom  a  small  gratuity  is  .soiiie- 
tiiiies  irixenV  The  cathartic  waters  should  lie  taken  hel'ore  lireakl'ast.  three  i;lassos 
lieiiiH  a  faii'tpiantity  ;  the  alterative  waters  shdiili'i  he  taki-ii  in  small  tpiaiitities 
thron^rli  Hit  the  d.iy  :  the  tonic  (iron)  waters  must.  lit>  di'inU  after  midday;  ami 
Iho  diiireiic  waters  should  lie  taken  before  each  meal. 

The  Columbian  Spring  is  in  Congress  Park,  under  a  neat  dome.     It 
was  discovered  in  1800,  ami  is  the  favorite  among  the  residents  of  the  vil 
lage.     This  water  contains  a  perceptible  amount  of  iron,  with  considerable 
carbonlc-aoid  gas.  ami  acts  as  a  «leciiled  tonic  and  diuretic. 

The  Congress  Spring  is  umler  a  Doric  colonna«le  in  Congress  Park, 
and  close  to  Congre'.s  Hall.  It  was  fountl  by  a  jiavty  of  hnntei's  in  1792, 
and  was  so  named  because  iliere  was  a  Congressman  umong  their  number. 
It  was  soon  after  ehoketl  by  unsicilful  tubing,  and  was  found  again  in 
1S04.  The  exjiortation  of  the  water  began  in  1823,  and  now  it  has  a  con- 
tinental fame,  and  is  also  sold  in  Europe.     It  contains  in  each  gallon  400 


I 


(I 


cat 


til 
Km 
Spr 
the 
Spii 
now 
vigd 
T 

olde 
•loin 
the; 


HAllATOGA   srUliNUH. 


Houk  5J.     .'i5.'J 


llK'ving 

il  hops 

;  of  tlie 

trains, 

;1h  of  a 
11  is 
111  with 
(•  lonnii 
'  KiTiich 
a  hu'ia- 
•s.     The 
isitors  a 
L-  of  Cir- 
ihliiig  is 
hit  sniue 
nti'  (100 
)t.  cnvt'S. 
[  hotel  ut 


•cat  liicfik 
suiliut"  by 
tiH'U  com- 
ss.Colnui- 
011  iiitio- 
rifs  have 
away  to 
i(>"ij;li  tlio 
i,  ;i(iO,(U)(» 
^rcdioiits 
iin;-',iH'sia. 
uliiir  cliar- 
iiiy  (if  till' 
is  soiuc- 
vo  j;lasses 
(luaiitities 
Idav  ;  luul 


loim".  It 
if  the  vil 
iisiderable 

•ess  Park, 
s  in  1792, 
r  number, 
ngain  in 
has  a  c'on- 
tallon  400 


griiinM  of  (hloriilf  of  Ho«liuni,  113  ^raiiui  of  lii  carhona!*-  of  liinc,  and  122 
^^raiiiH  ol  l)i-carlionati^  of  magnesia,  with  'M  grains  of  otiior  <'li<nicntu. 
'Ihis  water  is  calhaitif  and  alterative,  and  is  Ixneli'ial  in  diseuses  of  tho 
liver  and  Ividncya.  More  of  it  is  drank  tii;in  ol  lh(!  wattM- of  any  f)tlu'r 
AiiHiic.'in  spring,  and  its  vieirnty  is  thronged  cvcny  liri^ht  suninicr  n.orn- 
iiij;  v.itJ!  Iiealth-.seekers  from  tln^  liotels. 

Tlie  Washington  Spring  is  in  the  Recreative  (Jarduii  of  tliM  Clarendon 
lldlel  (aerosH  llroadway  Ironi  tln>  Colnndiian).  It  was  opened  in  ISOd, 
and  widie  ladiij^  renovatecl  and  slialied  in  Ksr»M  u  j^reat  Hood  ol  wal(!i  and 
j;as  hurst  forth  into  th«  suhtttrranean  tunnel,  and  forced  the  vorknieii  to 
lley  for  their  lives,  'i'his  i,i  tin;  most  ph-asaid- water  in  tie  valley,  and  has 
a  taste  of  iron,  with  strong  lonie  [nopertn's.  It  is  sonndiines  (!alle(l  "  tim 
ClianipaKne  Spring,"  and  is  situated  anionj;  stalely  pine  (proves. 

'i'lie  Crystal  Spring,  luidei  the  (irand  iV-ntral  iloicl,  was  din<overed  in 
1870.  It  is  tainteil  with  sMli>liurette<l  hydrogen,  ami  is  alterative  in  its 
ellcots.  'V\h'  I/(i(,/iitni  iSjtilin/  is  opposite  (Jon;,n-ess  Hall,  ou  Spring  St. 
II  was  discovered  in  iSdS,  and  is  a  vei'y  jiowerful  catinirlic.  Kach  gallon 
contains  r»10  jj;rains  ol'  cldoride  of  sodium,  171  giains  fd"  lii-c.uhonate  of 
lime,  and  17<I  ^fidns  of  hi  carliouale  of  nia;^'nesia,  besides  an  extraordinary 
Minonnt  of  lithia.  'V\w  HnniUlon  S/niii;/ in  near  the  llathorn,  and  ha(;k 
r'iC'oiiKress  Hall  (c(wner  Sjiriiiji;  and  Putnam  Sis.).  It  is  diuretic  and 
cathartic  in  its  oi»i!ration,  anil  is  mainly  used  for  diseases  of  the  Icidneys. 
The  Pidnani  Sprin;!  is  mi  I'ldli  St.,  near  the  Post-OIIice,  and  is  tonic  in 
its  ell'ects. 

The  Pavilion  Spring  is  in  a  pretty  park  on  Lake  Ave.,  veiy  near 
iiroalway.  It  was  tidtecl  n  l.s;}U,  and  has  a  wide  repntaLion  for  iti 
eatliartio  projiertiiis  and  ilselhcacy  in  dys]»(!psia  nnd  bilious  complaints. 
Of  lute  years  it  has  improved  in  (piality  and  in  ])0})ularity.  Tlu;  United 
States  Spring  i.s  under  the  same,  boa\itiful  colomiade,  and  is  tonic  in  its 
properties,  w!nle  from  its  sparkling  character  it  is  u.sed  for  giving  life  and 
llavor  to  still  wines. 

The  sources  ])re'.  .ously  meidioned  are  near  e;\eh  other,  in  the  centre  of 
the  village.  The  Seltzer,  High  Rock,  Star,  Empire,  Red,  Excelsior,  and 
iMu-eka  are  in  a  long  line  in  the  N.  part  of  tlie  village.  The  Seltzer 
Spring  is  on  the  old  Willow  Walk,  not  far  N.  of  the  I'avilion.  This  is 
the  least  saline  of  the  Saratoga  waters  and  closely  resend)les  the  Nassau 
S|iring  of  Germany.  It  bubbles  up  thnnigh  a  high  glass-tube,  agitated 
now  and  then  by  the  passage  of  carbonic-acid  ga.s,  It  is  a  pleasant  and  in- 
\i;,'orating  beverage. 

The  High  Rock  Spring  is  al  -ut  150  ft.  from  the  Selt/er,  and  is  the 
olde.st  known  of  the  springs.  In  17G7  a  party  of  Indians  brought  Sir  Wm. 
•bihnson  thither  on  a  litter,  and  after  si>ending  some  weeks  here  drinking 
tlie  niedicuial  wuiers,  he  was  cured.     The  water  rises  in  a  cylindrical 

w 


r>54    Route  53. 


SARATOGA  SPRIXCJB. 


I' . 


t 


>]! 


opening  in  a  rock  of  conical  shape,  3.^  ft.  liigli  and  24  ft.  around,  —  a 
natural  curb  of  tufa  wliioh  has  been  formed  by  the  niineral  deposits  from 
tlie  spring.     Tlie  Avatcr  is  decidedly  saline  to  tlie  taste. 

The  Star  Spring  (formerly  lalled  tl»c  Iodine)  is  near  the  High  Rock. 
This  is  the  favorite  mineral  water  in  New  England,  and  vast  (quantities  of 
it  are  shippe<l  in  kegs  and  bottles.  It  is  catliartic  in  effect,  and  acid  in 
taste,  and  is  beneficial  for  rheiimatisiu  and  cutaneous  diseases. 

The  Empire  Spring  is  N.  o:'  the  Star  (at  the  head  of  Circular  St.).  It 
very  mucli  resembles  the  Congress  water  in  its  constituents  and  effects 
(catliartic).  The  lied  Sprint/  is  just  beyond  the  Empire  (on  Spr'ng  Ave.) 
This  water  is  cliieily  (and  extensively)  used  as  awash,  and  is  especially 
e(Iic;',cious  in  diseases  of  tlie  skin  and  the  blood.  Dyspejisia  is  benefited, 
and  salt  rheum  is  cured  by  this  agency.  The  "  A"  Sjjring  (on  Spring 
Ave.,  beyond  the  Red)  is  becoming  jjopular  as  a  cathartic  agent,  having, 
moreover,  a  pleasant  taste. 

The  Excelsior  Spring  is  ]iearly  2  M.  N.  E  of  Congress  Park,  and  is 
reached  by  Spring  Ave.,  or  by^  a  forest-path  turning  olf  lVon»  Lake  Ave., 
and  leading  througb  beautifu'.  woodland  scenery.  The  Excelsior  water  is 
jileasaiit  to  the  taste,  and  mildly  (uithartic  in  its  operations.  Ni  i  +his 
place  are  the  Minnehaha,  Union,  and  other  sources,  forming  a  group  called 
the  Ten  Siirings.  The  Eureka  Spring  is  reached  by  foUrwing  the  park- 
like valley  for  a  few  rods  beyond  the  Excelsior.  It  is  situated  amid 
charndng  forest  .scenery,  and  is  gaining  popularity  as  a  cathartic  agent, 
beneficial  for  cases  of  dyspepsia,  and  liver  and  stomach  diseases.  Near 
this  place  is  the  Eureka  W  lite  Sul])hur  Spring,  with  a  copious  flow  of 
water  charged  with  sulphurttteil  hydrogen.  This  is  one  of  the  best  hepatic 
springs  in  the  State,  and  is  (efficient  in  many  affections  of  the  glands,  skin, 
stomach,  &c.  It  is  taken  internally  and  externally, —the  latter  at  the 
bath-houses  (50  c.  a  bath)  ii  the  vicinity.  Hourly  stages  run  from  the 
great  hotels  to  the  Eureka  Springs. 

The  Glrcier  Spouting  Spring  is  1  U.  S.  of  the  village,  near  the  Balls- 
ton  road.     It  was  discovered  in  1871  by  siidciiig  an  artesian  well,  300  f* 
deep,  to  the  Trenton  linn'stone  stratum.     The   proi)ortion  of   niin  ra. 
constituents  in  this  water  is  very  large,  and  it  is  a  powerful  cathartic, 
beneficMal  also  in  diseases  of  tiie  kidneys  and  liver. 

T'he  Geyser  Spouting  .spring  is  not  far  from  the  Glacier,  near  the 
Ballston  road  and  the  railroad.  It  was  discovered  iu  1870  by  boring  a 
well  140  ft.  deep,  and  the  '.vater  jets  np  for  over  25  ft.,  being  impelled  by 
carbonic-acid  gas.  This  is  the  coldest  of  the  waters  of  Saratoga,  and  has 
a  larger  amount  of  mineral  matter  than  any  other.  It  is  strongly  cathartic, 
and  is  lively  and  pleasatit  to  the  taste.  Between  the  Glacier  and  tlie 
Geyser  is  the  Ellis  Sj^irin;;  (chalybejite). 

Saratoga  Lako  is  about  \  M.  from  the  village,  and  is  reached  by  Llie 


H 

I'll 

I XI 

MM 
Th 

for 

Fis 

ell 

Vol 

S.IM 

lOMl 

llOll, 

MMti 

:'\  C 


I  and 


'I'oai 


!  t..  tl 
I  the  J 


^:il 


SARATOGA  SlMlIXGS. 


Route  53.     355 


d,  —  » 
[,3  from 

I  Rock, 
itien  of 
aciil  in 

it.).     It 
d  effects       1 
ng  Ave.) 
ispecially 
.ieneHte<\, 
m  Spvins 
t,  having, 

vk,  aiul  is 
,!ike  Ave., 
or  water  is 
N.    I  +Uis 
10 up  ciilled 
r  the  park- 
uated  ami<l 
xrtic  agent, 
r,ses.     Near 
ous  How  of 
best  hepatic 
glands,  skin, 
atter  at  the 
vn  from  the 

(av  tiic  Balls- 
Iwell,  300  V 
of   min  ru 
[vd  cathartic, 

tier,  Ticar  the 
by  boring  a 
impelled  by 
ftoga,  and  hi\s 
ligly  cathartic, 
lacier  and  tlie 

cached  by  '^^i^ 


favorite  drive  calle<l  the  Bonlevard  (entered  by  following  the  street  which 
Hes  between  Congress  Hall  and  the  Park).  This  road  passi's  near  tho 
race-conise  and  the  trout-ponds,  ^fl>(nls  Loir  Ifnuse  is  the  favorite  of 
tlio  lake  hotels,  and  furnishes  rare  dinners  of  fish  and  game,  nt  higli  jirices. 
Till' fried  potatoes  of  this  house  are  considered  a  gieat  delicacy.  Saratoga 
Laice  is  9  M.  long  and  3-5  M.  wide,  and  furnishes  good  fishing  and  boat- 
ing. The  scenery  is  tame,  altliough  the  views  from  Chapman's  Hill  (1  M. 
from  the  Lake  House)  and  Wagman's  Hill  arc  pleasing.  Lake  Lovely  is 
a  secpiestered  pond  among  the  hills  near  the  Bonlevard.  It  is  a  favorite 
place  for  picnics,  and  has  some  line  woodland  scenery. 

lake  Luzerne  is  22  M.  N.  of  Saratog:i  (by  the  Adirondack  Railroad),  and 
is  a  picturesqu*^  sheet  of  water  with  two  good  hotels  (Rockwell's  and  the 
Wayside).  Tlie  railroad  exhibits  some  remarkable  engineering  and  steadily 
rising  grades,  while  the  lake  affords  good  fishing  and  boating.  Stages  run 
iVoiii  Luzerne  ic  Caldwell  (10  M.). 

The  battle  of  Stillwater  was  fought  on  Deinis  IIoi;^hts,  about  V)  M.  S.  E.  of  tho 
Sitrii).i,'s,  and  2  M.  from  the  II>i(l.s()U  River.  Gen.  Uingoyne  inarclied  south  from 
Ciiiiiula  in  June,  1777,  witli  a  well-iiiipoiuted  British  army,  strengthened  by 
(icrniiui,  Canadian,  and  Indian  auxiliaries.  This  force  was  to  meet  another 
British  army  advancing  from  Nt!\v  Y()ri<,  soni'-wliere  on  the  line  of  tiic  Hudson, 
and  tiuis  cut  the  rebellious  coloiiies  in  two,  to  be  sulxlued  in  detail.  Burgoyno 
t(»(il<  Fort  Ticomleroga,  .luly  0,  and  lost  a  lirge  detachment  of  hi.s  btvst  (Jermau 
tnio])s,  who  were  cul  otr  by  tlie  Vermonte-.s  at  Bennington,  Aug.  lU.  On  Sept. 
14  tlie  British  cros.sed  the  lluds(,fi  and  encaniiied  at  Saratoga,  near  the  American 
army.  Bnrgoyne  made  an  attack  the  next  (lay  on  the  lii.es  at  Bciuis' Heights, 
which  had  been  fortilied  by  Kosciuszko,  l)nt  after  a  long  and  indecisive^  battle,  was 
fitrced  to  susi)end  his  southward  march.  He  Ibrtilied  his  camj),  and  waited  for  8ir 
Henry  Clinton's  army  to  achievi;  its  iiorMiward  march  and  rescue  him.  His  sup- 
]ili<'.^  and  outposts  were  cut  olf  daily,  and,  on  October  7,  he  advanced  for  another 
l)attli.  Morgan's  Virginians  attacked  his  riglit,  tho  sth,  '.ilh,  and  10th  Mass. 
mill"'  Cell.  Poor,  were  led  against  ids  left,  while  other  troojis  fell  on  his  front. 
The  British  retreated,  leaving  their  artillery,  and  the  Americans  stormetl  tho 
forlilied  camp  after  desperate  lighting.  Burgoyms  fell  back  on  his  old  cami>.s  by 
Fish  Creek,  but  Gen.  Fellows,  with  a  New  Kngland  brigaile  and  batteries,  prevent- 
eil  his  crossing  the  river,  while  Gates  with  12,000  Continental  troojis  and  New 
York  militia  faced  him  on  the  S.  His  ])rovisions  gave  out,  the  I'amp  was  inces- 
santly cannonaded  by  t!ie  Aineriean  batteries,  and  Cliidon's  army  had  failed  to 
citmuM't,  so.  on  0<'l.  i(),  the  British  army,  consisting  of  5,701  men,  with  42  can- 
non, and  all  their  stores,  surrendered  to  Gen.  (iates.  They  were  IkjIiI  as  captives 
until  the  close  of  the  war  (over  5  years),  <irst  at  Cambridge,  Mass.,  and  afterward 
't  Charlottesville,  Va. 


The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  rnns  N.  E.  from  Saratoga,  by 

(hinsevoort  and  Morenu  to  Fort  Ed'oard,  on  the  Hudson  (two  hotels). 

This  place  was  fortified  in  1709,  and  in  1755  Fort  EdwanTwas  built  at  the 

coiilluenceof  a  broad  creek  with  the  river.     The  ramparts  were  16  ft.  high 

ami  22  ft.  tliick,  and  were  jjiovided  witli  4  bastions  and  bordered  by  a 

j  broad  wet  ditch.     H.  was  a  very  important  station  on  the  old  military  ro.ad 

|t>.,the  N.,  and  in  1777  was  held  by  5,.W0  Americans,  who  retired  before 

Ithe  advance  of  Bnrgoyne.     About  this  time  the  beautiful  Jane  McRea  was 


356     Route  53. 


SAllATOGA  SPRINGS. 


■A 


J 


murdered  by  Indians,  near  the  village,  under  circunistances  which  have 
caused  her  story  to  become  one  of  the  saddest  in  the  New  World  history, 

PassensPi's  who  wisli  to  go  to  Lako  Cliani])Iain  dirert,  continue  on  the  train  for 
20  M.  fai'tlwM-,  passing,'  up  tho  valley  of  Wood  Creek  to  Whiteluili.  In  going  towanl 
Wliitehall  tliti  Fort  Ann  Mts.  are  seen  on  the,  1.,  and  tiie  course  of  the  C'haniplain 
Canal  is  followed.  Fort  Ann  Villa^'e  is  on  the  site  of  an  olrl  colonial  fort,  near 
whi(!h  Putnam  and  'lOO  Hangt-rs  were  defeated  by  the  French  ]iartisan  Molaiig.  with 
a  large  French  and  Tndian  fori'(i.  The  Rangers  sutfcreil  fearfully,  and  Putnam  was 
captured.  In  1777  the  Americans  attacked  the  !)th  line;  regiment  of  the  Pritish 
army,  in  a  ravine  now  traversed  hy  the  railroad  (•}  M.  N.  of  the  station).  Isnt  after 
an  obstinate  engagement  tlie  assailants  were  foned  to  withdraw.  Wliitehall 
{Hall's  Until)  is  a  jirospcrous  bnid>ering  village,  situated  in  a  rugged  ravine  lunlcr 
.Skene.'.':  Mt.  It  wa.-.  settled  by  Col.  I'liiliji  Kkene  in  17()'),  and  a  large  stone  man- 
sion and  military  works  were'ercrted.  It  was  eajitured  by  Ilerrick  and  tht^  Creen 
Mt.  Boys  in  177r>,  and  in  1771)  was  confiscated  by  the  State,  of  New  York,  on  ac 
count  of  Skene's  adliesion  tc  the  king,  the  Pi'itish  licet  here  engaged  the 
Americans  flying  from  Ticonderoga,  July  i,  1777,  destroyed  several  galleys,  and 
took  128  cannon  and  a  vast  amount  of  .snpi>lies.  The  name  of  "Whitehall  "  was 
adopted  in  i»lace  oi  .Skcucsb(M-ough,  and  in  bSl'J  the  juace  was  well  fortified.  In 
1S14  jVlacdonough's  Meet,  with  the  British  s(|nadron  w'lich  it  had  taken  in  the 
naval  battle  at  Plattsburg,  came  to  this  jioint,  and  how  the  "Saratoga,"  "Con- 
fiance,"  and  other  ves.sels  sunk  at  their  moorings.  Whitehall  is  24  M.  from  Fort 
Tieouderoga  (by  the  lake).     Whltcliall  to  Rutland,  .see  Route  28. 

Passengers  for  Lake  George  change  cars  at  Fort  Edward,  and  take  a 
train  wliieh  passes  over  a  branch  railroad  to  Glens  Ftdls  (G  M.),  a  flourish- 
ing factory-village  with  about  5,000  inliabitants,  which  has  but  lately 
recovered  from  a  fire  which  utterly  destroyed  it  (in  1863).  The  Hudson 
here  falls  50 -GO  ft.-'over  a  long  and  rugged  ledge,  while  the  State  has 
built  a  great  dam  above,  which  feeds  the  Chaiuplain  Canal.  The  Island 
below  the  falls  is  associated  with  Cooper's  "Last  of  the  Mohicans." 
"  Here,  amid  the  roaring  of  this  very  cataract,  if  romance  maybe  believed, 
the  voice  of  Uncas,  the  last  c*"  the  Mohicans,  was  heard  and  heeded  ;  here 
HawJv-Eye  kept  his  vigils  ;  here  David  breathed  his  nasal  melody,"  &c. 

Stages  run  from  Glens  Falls  to  Caldwell,  9  M.  N.  About  5  M.  beyond  the  vil- 
lage the  road  jiasses  near  Williams's  Rock,  a  large  boulder  which  marks  the  scene 
of  "  Tlie  Ploody  Morning-Scout."  On  Sept.  7,  1755,  when  the  French  ai-my  of 
Dieskau  was  marching  down  from  Crown  I'oint  against  the  Anglo-colonial  army 
unde.' (mt.  .lohnson,  Col.  Kphraim  Williams  was  sent  out  with  1,200  men  to  en- 
gage the  Frenfdi  van-guard.  200  of  his  men  were  Mohawk  Indians,  under  the 
command  uf  their  noble,  'vhite-haired  chief,  Hcndrick.  The  detachment  ad- 
vanced into  the  very  (;entre  of  the  invading  army  (which  was  marching  in  a  great, 
hab'-moon  curve),  anc'  was  sjieedily  enveloped  and  crushed  by  the  enemy.  A  ler- 
rilile  ma.ssacre  ensued  (in  a  ravine  still  called  the  Bloody  Defde),  and  Williani.s 
(the  founder  of  Williams  College)  and  Hcndrick  fell,  with  inost  of  their  men.  Tlie 
boilies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  into  Bloo'y  Pond,  a  (piict  i)ool  in  a  glen  near  Wil- 
liams's Rock.  Dieskai;  then  advanced  rapitlly  to  attack  the  colonial  camp  at  Lal;i' 
lieorge.  Johnson  had  fortified  Ms  position,  iind  the  Indian  and  Canadian  auxil- 
iaries in  the  utta*liing  force  were  soon  jint  to  flight  by  the  lire  of  the  batteries, 
while  the  French  regulars  sufl'ered  heavily,  and  were  filially  repulsed  with  the  loss 
of  700  killed  and  wounded.  Dlcskau  was  wounded  and  made  ]»risoner,  while  John- 
son, though  wounded,  was  made  a  baronet  of  Great  Britain,  and  received  tiie 
thcidvs  of  Parliament.  Fort  William  Henry  was  soon  afte-wards  erected,  arnitMl 
with  42  tiannon,  stored  with  vast  supi)lies,  and  garrisoned  by  2,500  men.  In  Au- 
gust, 1757,  this  fort  was  beleaguered  by  10,000  Frenchmen  and  Canadians,  uiidii 
the  Manjuis  de  Montcalm.  After  a  siege  of  .several  days'  duration,  lia  ving  received  m 
Uid  from  the  colonial  army  at  Fort  Edward,  the  fort  was  surrendered.     As  soon  a^ 


M, 

Fi'l 

terf 

wai 

EiiJ 

ila\ 

iiiei 

Hof 

thi,{ 
hatf 

f'Tll 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Routcis.    357 


cli  have 
History. 

train  fcr 
Ig  towuitl 

fort,  m'av 
liuifi:.  witli 
ituaiii  was 
K!  Ihitish 
V.ut  after 
liitehall 

.tone  man- 
thc  UietMi 
nik,  oil  ii<' 
ipa-od    the 
alleys,  and 
X'hall  "  was 
iitified.     I" 
ikeii  in  tlie 


Con- 


.  from  Fort 

md  take  a 
,  a  tlouvish- 
"biit  lately 
•he  Huilsou    , 
3  State  lias 
The  islauil 
Mohicans." 
be  believed, 
ceded  ;  here 
ody,"  &c. 

yond  the  vil- 
ivks  the  scent; 
eiich  army  of 
cohtnial  army 
)0  men  to  ei\- 
ns,  under  the 
laehment  ail- 
uig  in  a  great, 
uemy.     A  ter- 
iu\d  Williams 
icir  men-   The 
-glen  near  Wil- 
li camv  at  LaUe 
anadian  auxil- 
the  liatteru'S 
d  with  the  loss 
t>r,  while  John- 
d  received  the 
ereeted,  aniuMl 

.  men.  In  -^ 
xnadians.  undti 
ving  received  lu 
■cd.     As  soon  :i^ 


the  disarmed  garrison  marched  out,  the  Indian  allies  of  Montcalm  ft  11  fnrionsiy 
upon  tiieni,  and  a  fearful  nia-ssa  -re  ensued.  Hundreds  of  the  detV'ucekss  ((iloniafs 
were  imt  to  <leath  under  the  wa.ls  of  the  fort  liefore  tlie  slaugliter  couiti  he  staved. 
Although  Montcalm  retired  to  Fort  (."arillon  (Ticonderoga)  with  his  trojiliics  and 
cai>tured  batteries,  the  site  of  Fort  William  Henry  was  iiever  re-occuiiiid.  a  new 
work  called  Fort  George,  with  a  central  citadel  of  "stone,  having  been  built  1  M.  S. 
E.  of  the  old  fort. 

Caldwell  is  a  dull  vill.-ige  at  the  S.  end  of  Lake  George,  wliicli  enjoys  a 
slight  local  distinction  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  .sliire-town  of  WatTeii 
County.  There  are  two  small  inns  here,  and  the  Lake  House  (accommo- 
dating 175 gnests,  at  $ 3-3.50  a  day).  The  *  Fort  William  Henry  Hold 
is  a  vast  and  sumptuous  house,  on  the  site  of  tlie  old  fort,  and  amid  finely 
ai  ranged  grounds.  It  accommodates  1,200  guests,  and  charges  .S5.00  a 
day  for  transient  visitors.  The  splendid  frontage  of  the  hotel  looks  o;it 
over  the  lake,  which  is  close  at  hand.  Some  remnants  of  the  old  fort  may 
he  found  here,  and  Fort  George  (1  M.  distant)  is  a  picturesque  ruiu. 
Rattlesnake  Cobble  is  an  easily  ascended  hill  near  Caldwell,  which  com- 
mands a  broad  view  down  the  lake.  Prospect  and  French  Mts.  are  also 
ascended  from  the  village,  and  give  varying  views  of  the  lake  and  it.s 
shores. 

Stages  run  from  Caldwell  to  Lake  Luzerne  ;  also  to  Warrensburg, 
Chester,  Schroon  Lake,  and  the  southern  Adirondacks. 

Lake   George 

was  first  visited  by  Father  Jogues,  a  French  Jesuit  missionary,  whose  canoe,  en- 
tered its  quiet  waters  on  the  eve  of  the  fes^'val  of  Corpus  Ciu'isti,  IGIG.  In  honor 
of  that  sacred  anniversary  he  named  thesi!  bright  waters  "  Le  La(!  du  St.  !Sacre- 
meMt"(The  Lake  of  the  iloly  Sacrament),  and  then  iiasscd  on  to  a  heroic  martyr- 
ilom  at  the  hands  of  tlie  Moliawks,  fullilling  the  i)r(iphci'y  whiidi  he  had  mailc. 
when  leaving  Montreal,  "  Ibo,  nee  rediho."  For  a  ct^utnrytlie  lake  was  known  in 
the  border  tdu'onicles  as  the  jiath  of  hostile  incursions  oi  of  religions  dcvoti'c.s 
passing  to  the  land  of  the  lierce  .Mohawks.  (Jourcelles,  Tracy.  Schuyler,  Mentelh, 
—  French,  Dutch,  Indians,  Englisli,  iliversilied  the  record.  In  17 W  Sir  William 
ilohnson  concluded  a  league  with  the  northern  Indians,  on  the  shores  of  St.  Sao 
reinent,  and  in  IToo  he  le<l  an  army  to  the  lake,  and  name<l  it  Lake  (ieorgc,  "  not 
oidy  in  h(mor  of  his  Majesty,  but  to  ascertain  his  nndoubted  dominion."  (liiis 
name  is  growing  more  and  more  out  of  favor  year  l>y  year,  and  most  i)eo]>le  would 
prefer  either  the  French  "St.  Sacremeut,"  or  tlie  Indian  "Horicim,"  —  meaning 
"Silvery  Watere,"  —  suggested  by  Cooper.)  Johnson's  force  was  soon  menai'e<l 
hy  2,000  Frenchmen  and  Indians  under  the  Baron  Dieskau,  but  "the  liloody 
Morning  Scout"  was  followed  by  a  total  defeat  of  the  invading  force,  in  which  tins 
French  regulars  were  nearly  annihilated.  Fort  William  Henry  was  built  soon  af- 
ter, and  Rogers  and  Putnam,  with  their  hardy  Rangers,  scouted  over  the  lake  to- 
ward the  French  fortress  at  Ticonderoga.  In  March,  17.">7,  Ri.^aud  destroyed  ;.i<)0 
English  batteaux  and  several  sloops  near  Fort  William  Henry,  and  in  August  tlio 
Maniuisde  Montcalm  jiassed  down  the  lake  with  (1,000  men  in  boats  and  a,0;H) 
men  marching  on  the  W.  sliore.  After  jiicketing  th;  southern  roads,  Montcalm 
opened  a  cannonade  on  the  fort  from  batteries  near  tin;  ])resent  site  of  the  Lake 
House,  and  soon  conii)elled  its  surrender.  After  tlie  ensuing  massacre  of  the  dis- 
armed garrison,  the  fort  was'destroyed.  But  the  most  iiiii)osiiig  spectacles  which, 
this,  or  any  other  An>ericau  lake,  has  .seen,  occurn d  in  17.'j8  and  17-09.  lu  the 
former  year.  Gen.  Abercrombie  advanced  up  the  lake  with  10,000  men,  in  900 
hatteaux  and  190  whale-boats,  convoyed  by  gunboats,  nil  brilliant  with  rich  uni- 
fonns  and  waving  banners,  while  the  nuisic  of  numerous  regimeuUil  bands  echoed 


I 


i« 


y 
w 


m\ 


358    Route  53. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


II 


! 


n 


'.ii 


W 


among  the  liills.  (This  pagoaiit  is  (iiiely  (lcsriil)L'<l  liy  Conijcr,  in  "  Sataiistoe," 
Cliajitcrs  XXII.  -  XXV.)  A  few  day.s  later  tlic  sliattererl  and  dcleated  army  itassccl 
up  tlio  lake  to  Fort  A'^illiani  Henry,  having,'  left  over  J, 01)0  of  their  iiiunl)er  rU'jid 
and  dyin}^  under  the  walls  of  Fort  Carillon  (Ticondero^ia).  In  IT-W  Gen.  Amherst 
led  11,000  men  in  another  grand  martial  jirocession  down  the  lake,  and  this  mareh 
ended  in  the  Coiuiuest  of  Canada.  In  ITT-'i  tiie  abandoned  l*'()rts  George  and  Gage 
(at  Caldwcdl)  were  oeeuiiiod  liy  New  York  militia,  and  afterwards  l)y  a  detaeh- 
incntfrom  llinman's  Conn.  Ileg.,  and  by  Col.  Van  Schaiek's  N.  Y.  Reg.  In  the 
summer  of  1777  Fort  George  was  chosen  as  the  army  hosjiital,  on  aecount  of  its 
.salubrity,  and  .'{,000  sieK  men  were  sent  here.  Ilundretls  died  of  the  small-pox 
and  typiius-fever,  and  among  them  was  the  Baron  de  Woedtke,  a  Prussian  noble 
who  had  Just  aeeejjted  a  general's  commission.  In  1777,  after  the  fall  of  Ti(!on- 
deroga,  Fort  (ieorg(;  and  tiic  lake  wen;  abandoned  by  the  Americans,  but  were  re- 
o(!cupied  after  Hurgoyne's  surrender.  In  Oc^tober,  17^0,  the  garrison  of  Fort 
George  was  defeated  and  cut  to  ]>ieces,  near  Bloody  Pond,  and  the  fort  and  the 
fleet  on  the  lake  were  taken  by  the  British.  Since  that  day,  peace  has  dwelt  on 
these  traiiquil  waters. 

Lake  George,  "the  Como  of  America,"  is  situated  in  Northeasteni  New 
York,  near  the  Adironilack  .Its.,  and  is  about  300  ft.  above  the  .sea.  It 
is  36  M.  long,  and  1  -  4  ]\L  v/ide,  and  its  sliores  are  generally  sterile  and 
fringed  with  lofty  and  abrupt  hills.  There  are  but  three  petty  villages 
on  the  lake,  and  a  luglnvay  pusses  through  them  on  the  W.  shore,  con- 
necting Caldwell  with  Bolton,  Ilag:.e,  and  Ticonderoga.  The  vicinity  of 
frowning  mts.,  the  great  number  of  islamls,  the  transparency  of  the  waters, 
and  the  l)racing  purity  of  the  air  of  the  highlands,  unite  to  increase  tlie 
claims  of  Laice  George  as  a  summer-resort,  wlule  its  scenery  has  been  lik- 
ened not  only  to  that  of  Conu^  but  also  to  Lake  Windermere  and  Loch 
Katrine, 

The  steamer  "  Minnehaha  "  leaves  Caldwell  every  morning,  and  runs  to 
the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  returning  in  the  afternoon.  The  steamer  "  Ga- 
nouskie  "  makesdaily  trips  between  Caldwell,  Bolton,  and  14-Mile  Island. 

The  steamer  leaves  its  pier  (at  the  great  hotel)  aiid  crosses  to  Croshi/side, 
on  the  E.  shore,  with  a  large  hotel  situated  in  i)leasant  groves  by  the 
shore,  and  looking  across  to  Caldwell.  French  Mt.  towers  to  tlie  E.,  and 
is  covered  Avith  fore.  :s.  Tea  Island  (so  named  from  a  tea-house,  or  arbor, 
erected  in  1828)  is  next  passed,  1  M.  from  Caldwell,  and  then  Diamond 
Island  is  approached,  Ih  M.  beyond.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  beau- 
tiful quartz  crystals  which  are  found  here,  and  the  i)lace  was  inhabited 
in  the  early  part  of  this  century,  —  tlie  mistress  of  the  family  being  gen- 
ei'ally  known  as  "the  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  Diamond  Island  was  fortified 
by  Burgoyne  in  1777,  and  was  garrisoned  by  part  of  the  47th  line  regi- 
ment under  Capt,  Aubrey,  It  was  attacked  by  Col,  John  Brown,  with 
the  New  England  militia  who  had  swept  the  outworks  of  Ticonderoga, 
but  Aul)rey  re])ulsed  the  Americans  with  artillery,  and  then  drove  them 
away  C^' with  great  loss")  by  an  attack  with  his  gunboats.  Brown  lost 
all  his  vessels  and  cannon,  and  many  men,  Dunham's  Bay  and  Mont- 
calm's Bay  are  passed  on  the  E.,  the  latter  being  beyond  Long  Island, 
which  is  passed  on  the  E.  (with  the  Three  Sisters  islets  on  the  W.).     The 


3 


M 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Itoute53.     350 


itniisUiR," 
ny  jiasscil 
\Im  r  (U'lul 

Amherst 
Ids  iiiiinU 

and  Gage. 

a  detafU- 
;.  In  the 
unt  of  its 

sniall-pox 
sian  nohlc 

of  Ticon- 
it  were  re- 
in of  Fort 
rt  and  the 
i  dwelt  on 

4teni  New 
e  sea.  It 
itevile  and 
ty  villages 
ihore,  con- 
ticinity  of 
the  waters, 
icrease  tlie 
is  been  lik- 
and  Loch 

md  I'lins  to 
nier  "  Ga- 
llic Island. 
Vrosbi/side, 
ves  by  the 
le  E.,  and 
e,  or  arbor, 
Diamond 
1  the  beau- 
iiihabited 
being  gen- 
is  fortified 
line  regi- 
rown,  witli 
.conderoga, 
Irove  them 
Brown  lost 
land  Mont- 
Lng  Island, 
|W.).     The 


Tnmt  Pavilion  is  a  seqiiosterfd  lictel  above  Montcalm's  Bay,  near  the 
hcst  ti.shing-grounds,  and  IrcMiuented  by  lishernien.  The  Fort  Ann  Mts, 
loom  np  darkly  on  the  E.  as  the  steamer  crosses  the  lake,  with  the  Thrre 
13rotIiei-s  on  the  W.,  and  Uome  and  Recluse  Islands  on  the  N.  This  is 
tlie  broadest  part  of  the  lake,  and  adords  views  of  rare  beauty,  with  tlie 
graceful  J)o77ie  Island  (whicli  resembles  Ellen's  Isle,  in  Loch  Katrine) 
])roi>iinently  seen.  KccUisc  Island  is  a  beautiful  spot  just  \V.  of  th^ 
IJoine,  with  a  clieerful  summer-villa  embowered  among  trees.  This  island 
has  the  remains  of  fortifications  wiiich  wer.:  built  by  Abercrombie's  army 
in  1758,  while  the  views  from  its  N.  and  E.  sliores  are  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful. The  steamer  now  rounds  in  at  Bolton,  a  small  village  with  a  noble 
outlook  over  the  broadest  expanse  of  the  lake.  There  are  two  large  and 
comfortable  family  hotels  here,  and  ip  tlie  environs  of  the  village  is  the 
quaint  old  stone  Church  of  St.  Sacrament.  Tlie  terms  at  the  Mohican 
House  (directly  on  the  shore)  are  low,  and  the  accommodations  are  good. 
Prospect  Mt.  is  back  of  the  village,  and  commands  a  broad  and  <lelight- 
ful  view,  endn-acing  the  widest  i)art  of  the  lake,  Montcalm's  and  Gana- 
souke  (or  Northwest)  Bays,  Recluse,  Dome,  and  Green  Ids.  and  the 
Narrows,  and  Tongue  and  Black  Mts.  in  the  N.  and  N.  E.  Ganasouke 
Bay  extends  for  G  M.  to  the  N.  above  Bolton,  being  separated  from  the 
lake  by  the  lofty  promontory  of  Tongue  Mt.,  \w\\Q\:e  deer  abound  in  the 
late  fall  and  winter.  As  the  boat  leaves  Bolton,  Parodi  (or  Sloop)  Island 
is  passed  on  the  1.  (so  named  because  the  singer,  Signora  Parodi,  erected 
across  here  in  1851).  On  the  N.  are  Green  and  Hog  Islands,  closing  the 
entrance  to  Ganasouke  Bay,  while  Tongue  Mt.  is  on  the  W.  and  Black 
ML  on  the  E.,  as  the  steamer  crosses  toward  the  lofty  palisades  called 
Shelving  Rock,  with  the  innumerable  islands  of  the  Narrows  on  the  1. 
1/f-Mile  Island  is  just  W.  of  Shelving  Rock,  and  has  a  fine  hotel,  which 
is  much  visited  by  city  gentlemen  for  the  sake  of  the  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 
Tlie  Shelving  Rock  Fall  is  about  1  M.  S.  of  the  hotel  (on  the  mainland), 
and  is  a  small  and  graceful  cascade.  Tlie  island  is  14  M.  from  Caldwell, 
and  Derrom's  Hotel,  charges  $2-2.50  a  day  for  board  (.$10-14.00  a 
week).  The  steamer  now  enters  the  Narrows,  where  the  lake  is  contracted 
between  high  mts.,  and  a  lleet  of  small  islands  is  anchored  in  the  channel. 
These  islets  were  the  scene  of  numerous  combats  in  the  colonial  days,  but 
are  now  deserted,  save  for  the  visits  of  sportsmen,  who  find  large  trout  in 
their  pool  shadows.  Steaming  down  between  Tongue  Mt.  and  Black  Mt. 
(2,878  ft.  high  ;  sometimes  ascended  with  guides,  for  the  sake  of  its  view) 
the  "  Mini>ehaha"  passes  the  Hen  and  Chickens,  Hatchet,  Half- Way,  and 
Floating  Battery  Islands,  with  the  N.  peaks  of  Black  Mt.,  called  variously, 
Elephant's  Ridge  or  Sugar  Loaf.  Just  N.  of  the  Floating  Battery  group 
is  Vicar's  Island,  with  the  palisades  of  Buck  Mt.  on  the  W.,  and  the 
hamlet  of  Dresden  seen  down  Bosom  Bay,  on  the  E.     Sabbath  Day  Point 


m 


in 


Ill 


i 


360    Route  53. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


is  soon  approacherl  (on  the  W. ),  — a  long,  low  promontory  running  out 
from  rich  meadows  and  still  retaining  the  air  of  ^ .^ace  and  restfulness 
•which  won  it  the  name  it  bears. 

In  1757  a  sharp  sldrinish  orctirrod  at  Harhor  Island,  off  this  Point,  and  in  Jtdy 
of  tlint  year  the;  1st  New  .fcrsoy  rcjiiinciit  wns  sent  on  a  scout  down  tlio  lake.  De 
(Jarl)itTcaud  4()()  Frcnchnicn  and  Indians  aMilinslicd  tlic  Jersey  Blues  in  the  arehi- 
]telaKo  off  tlie  Point,  and  defeated  them  v.itli  ;^'reat  slan^diter.  131  of  llie 
A'nerieans  were  killed,  12  esi-ajied.  and  1. SO  were  made  jirisoners,  many  of  whom 
were  puttodeath  witli  horriltle  tortnres.  On  the  evening  of  .Inly  '>,  1758,  the  van- 
guard and  centre  of  Abercrombie's  j;rand  army  (liKht  infantry  and  re.i,Milars) 
rested  on  !Sal)bath  Day  I'oint  from  sunset  until  near  midni.ulit,  waiting  for  the 
three  brigades  of  Provincials  and  the  artillery  to  come  ui>.  In  1777  a  sharp  con- 
flict took  i>la<'e  here  lj<'twe('n  American  militia  and  Tories,  and  during  the  present 
century  peace  has  settled  along  these  sliores,  althougji  tlie  coninioniilace  farni- 
Ijouses  on  the  Point  have  marred  tlie  natural  beauty  of  the  plaoo. 

The  vast  bulk  of  Black  Mt.  is  prominent  in  the  S.  E.,  as  the  "Minne- 
haha "  r.tns  N.  to  the  village  of  Ilatjue,  situated  on  a  widening  of  the 
lake,  where  it  is  4  M.  across.  Garfield's  is  a  favorite  hotel  at  Hague,  and 
from  this  point  parties  go  to  the  lakes  (abounding  hi  fish),  of  Pharaoh  (12 
M.  N.  W.),  Brant,  and  Schroon.  As  the  steamer  gains  the  middle  of  the 
lake  again,  the  prospect  of  the  pass  lietween  Rogers'  Slide  and  Anthony's 
Nose,  and  the  retrospc.i;  of  the  Narrows  and  its  island-flotilla  afford 
delightful  views.  Friends'  Point  and  Islands  are  passed  on  the  W.,  and 
then  Anthony's  Nose  (on  the  N.  E. )  pushes  out  its  rocky  ledges  over  the 
deepest  water  in  the  lake  (400  ft.).  lioijcrs'  Slide  is  on  the  W.  shore, 
and  is  a  long  precipice  which  runs  down  into  the  water. 

There  is  a  legend  to  the  effect  that  Major  Robeit  Rogers  (the  chief  of  the 
R:>ngers,  and  afterwards  a  dangerous  Tory  oltlcer)  was  chased  to  the  verge  of  this 
cliff  by  Indians  (in  the  winter  of  17r)S).  Suddenly  reversing  his  snow-shoes,  and 
throwing  his  haversack  down  on  the  ice-bound  lake,  he  retraced  his  tracks,  and 
got  away  dowJi  an  adjacent  raviiKi  liefore  his  i>ursuers  arrived.  The  Indians  fol- 
lowed the  tiacks  leading  to  the  preei])icc,  and  saw  none  leading  away,  whence 
they  concluded  that  he  had  cast  himself  over  ;  and  when,  a  lew  minutes  later, 
they  saw  him  skimming  away  o\er  the  ice  to-ward  Fort  William  Henry,  they  at- 
tributed his  escape  to  the  i)rotection  of  the  Great  Spirit. 

Passing  now  by  Prisoners'  Island  (where  the  French  kept  their  captives), 
with  Lord  Howe's  Point  on  the  1,,  the  "  Minnehaha"  soon  reaches  the  end 
of  the  lake.  Large  four-horse  stages  are  in  waiting  at  the  wharf,  and  arc 
soon  filled  and  en  route  for  Lake  Ohamplain.  The  road  is  a  disgrace  to 
the  State,  and  in  wet  weather  is  almost  impassable ;  but  it  is  only  4  M. 
long  (fare  by  stage,  75  c. ).  The  stream,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  falls  about  240  ft.  in  its  way  to  Lake  Champlain  (3-4  M.  dis- 
tant), and  near  the  chief  falls  is  the  small  biit  increasing  manufacturing 
villag«  of  Ticonderoga  (2  inns).  2  M.  beyond,  with  beautiful  lake-views 
in  front,  the  stage  passes  the  ruins  of  the  old  fortress,  and  stops  at  the 
hotel  and  pier  of  the  Champlain  steamers. 


LAKE  CIIAMPLAIN*. 


Route  53.     361 


ling  out 
itfulness 


f\  in  Jnly 
lake.  l)e 
tlic  an-lii- 
;l  of   the 

of  wlioin 
(,  the  viin- 

rei^ulars) 
!!<,'  for  the 
iharp  I'on- 
hc  invsent 
hice  lanu- 

"  Minne- 

iig  of  the 
ague,  and 
lavuoh  (12 
(lie  of  the 
Anthony's 
ilia  afford 
e  W.,  and 
s  over  the 
I  W.  shore, 

lief  of  the 
■rge  of  this 
^-shoes,  and 
tnn'ks,  and 
Indians  fol- 
vay,  whence 
mites  later, 
iry,  they  at- 

captives), 
lies  the  end 
Irf,  and  are 

llisgvace  to 
only  4  M. 

\ii  of  Lake 
_4M.  dis- 

[lufacturing 
lake-views 

lops  at  the 


1  '■\» 


lake  Champlain 

was  railed  by  the  Iroquois  Indiana  Caniaderi  Guaranli  ("The  (lato  of  the 
(duntry  "),  while  the  AbeiuKinis  caih-d  it  I'etoiihoiKiue  ("The  Waters  tliat  lie  be- 
tween "  ;  i.  c.  between  their  land  and  that  of  the  Invinois) :  ami  othi  r  Indians 
called  it  Haranae.  For  nearly  half  a  centnry  it  was  ealliMl  Corleai's  Lake  by  the 
i:ii,:/lish  and  Uuteh,  in  memory  of  a  iiiitch  j^entleman  wiio  was  drown  mI  there.  Fn 
tli((  sunnner  of  lOO'J  a  small  exploring,'  j>arty  set  ont  from  (2"*''"'''  "iider  fSamiiel 
(le  Champlain,!  the  (iovernor  of  Canada,  an<l  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
'liichelieii  Rivers  to  the  Cliambly  Rapids,  wliere  tliey  met  a  war-party  of  llm-ons. 
All  tlie  Frenelunen  save  Champlain  and  two  others  were  sent  ba<k  to  Quebec, 
■ind  tiiose  tliree  joined  the  war-i)arty.  .Iuly4,  l(iO'.>,  they  entereil  tiie  lake,  and 
on  tlie  followinj^  day  they  defeated  "ion  Irocpiois  at  Crown  Point,  Champlain 
liiiving  shot  their  chief  with  his  aniuebus.  The  llnrons  returned  in  triiunph, 
with  (JO  scalps,  and  the  valiant  Frenidiman,  having;  found  the  road  to  the  lake, 
WIS  left  to  make  several  subse(|uent  explorations  and  campaiKiis  thereon.  A 
SI  ''ies  of  war  parties  traversed  this  route  for  nearly  two  centuries,  and  the  lake 
became  the  scene  of  long  campaigns  and  desperate  batth-s.  In  KiOii,  iJUO  French 
regulars  and  ji  swarm  of  Indians  jtassed  up  in  canoes,  and  :'i;>rched  to  Hchcnec- 
tady,  whi(di  they  destroyed  with  GO  of  its  ]ieople,  returning  with  '21  pri.soncrs,  and 
40  lioi-ses  laden  with  iilinider.  Shortly  afterward  Col.  iScluiyler  and  "JOO  Moliawks 
l»ass(^d  the  lake  and  the  Richelieu  lliver,  and  destrove<l  the  Canadinn  town  of 
Sorel.  In  iCillo  the  chivalrous  Count  de  Frontenac  (a  relative  of  Mailamy  de 
Mai  ntenon)  launched  a  fleet  of  small  craft,  and  pa.ssed  down  to  Whitehall  with 
700  Frencdnnenand  AlgoiKiuins.  After  a  daring  foray  througli  the  Mohawk  Valley 
and  nearly  to  the  forts  at  Albany,  he  retired  safely  by  Whitehall,  jiursued  by 
Schuyler  and  the  Hudson  Valley  people.  The  lake  was  held  by  the  Fvenedi  and 
eonnnanded  by  their  fortifications  until  17')'.',  when  Lord  Andierst  buiit  .!  flotilla 
in  -  "ith  Ray,  with  a  Hag  ship  mounting  IS  guns,  in  whi'di  Capt.  Lo -ing  swept 
and  won  this  inland  sea.  The  military  and  naval  oi>erations  around  the  lake  will 
he  considered  in  connection  with  the  points  of  action. 

Lake  Champlain  is  a  large  and  picturesr^ue  .sheet  of  water,  running 
nearly  N.  and  S.  for  126  M.,  with  a  breadth  of  from  1  furlong  to  15 
M.  Its  waters  are  clear,  and  abound  in  l)ass,  pickerel,  salnion-irout,  nd 
other  fish,  while  the  depth  varies  from  9  to  47  fathoms.  Tiiere  are  many 
i.slands  in  the  lake,  the  largest  of  wliicli  covers  an  area  of  18,«)00  acres, 
and  has  a  population  of  1,300.  Besides  numerous  pleasant  villages  and 
towns,  there  is  one  city  on  the  lake,  and  the  llcets  used  in  commerce  hero 
number  many  thousands  of  tons.  Tliere  is  a  large  trade  done  between  the 
rivers,  the  Hudson  being  joined  to  the  lake  by  a  canal  64  M.  long  (to 
Watervliet),  while  the  Richelieu  River  aifords  an  ontUit  to  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  scenery  of  the  Vermont  shore  is  that  of  a  quiet  pastoral 
region,  with  the  Green  Mts.  rising  in  tlie  distant  E.  The  New  York  sliore 
presents  a  continual  sifccession  of  barren  and  mountainous  sceiu:ry,  with 
occasional  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks  pushed  out  in  promontories,  and 
the  parent  peaks  looming  blue  in  the  distance.  ^ 

There  are  four  elegant  steamers  i)lying  up  and  down  the  lake.  On  the  arrival 
of  the  3.15  p.  M.  and  of  the  G  a.  m.  trains  from  Montreal,  steamers  leave  Rouse's 

1  Champlain  was  born  of  a  good  fiimily  of 'the  province  of  Snintonfrc,  in  1  j'O.  Ho  became 
a  naval  otticer,  and  afterward  wiis  attached  to  the  person  of  Kinp  Henri  W .  In  Itjd.?  he  ex- 
plored the  St  Lawrence  lliver  up  to  the  St.  Louis  Rapids,  and  afterward  (until  hin  death  in 
Iti'io)  lie  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  ncad-wateiH  of  the  Ottawa.  He  was  a 
brave,  morcifid,  and  zcalou'"  chief,  and  held  that  "  the  salvation  of  one  soul  is  of  more  im- 
portance thuii  the  foundinfj  of  a  new  empire."  He  established  strong  misBions  among  the 
llurons,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 

16 


362    Route  53. 


FORT  TICONDEUOGA. 


I 


\J 


ill 

■I  ■ 

■It 


•f'l  ' 

'i  ) 


i 


V 

I 
c 


I 


Point  at.  6 1*.  M.  niul  atfi.l.'i  a.  m.,  arriviiiK  at  Wliiti'liall  n^Hiieotivply  nt  UAh  a.  m. 
nmlJ.ir)  I'.  M.  Htraiiit'i's  h-uve  Wliitcliall  fnrtlic  north  at  S.'iO  w  m  aii<l  lo  l'.  a.  m  . 
icacliiii','  I{<>iist'')s  I'oiut  respectively  at  7  a.  m.  ami  H.'M)  v.  m.  The  boats  leaviiii^ 
Svhitf'liallat  1(1.4')  and  Rouse's  Toint  at  S.  1,'),  roniieet  at  Ti(Oiiih'ro;,'a  with  stages 
for  I,al<e  (Jeor^e  (4  M.),  where  jinsseii^^ers  take  tiie  steamer  to  Caiilwell.  arriving 
tliere,  at  7  r.  M.  (Tinie-taliles  of  1S72.)  fState-rooms  are,  (hisirablo  on  the  niylit- 
boats,  while  a  lino  dinner  («!  1.00)  is  given  on  the  <lay-houtH. 

From  Whitehall  to  Fort  Tidonderog.i  (24  M.),  ami  oven  to  Crown  Point, 
the  lake  is  very  narrow,  and  s(.'enis  more  like  a  fine  river.  Daring  the 
first  part  of  the  journey  tlie  hills  of  Dresden  are  seen  boldly  looming  on 
the  W.  and  Blaek  Mt.  is  seen  beyond,  while  the  "  Drowned  Lands  "  lie 
along  the  shore.  The  unimportant  lamlings  in  Benson  and  Orwell  (both 
in  Vermont)  are  stoj)i)ed  at,  and  then  the  steamer  reaches 

Fort  Ticonderoga 

(Fort  Ticonderoga  Hotel,  ,$3.00  a  day,  an  old  mansion  house  near  the 
lake  and  landing).  There  is  a  railway-station  about  1  M.  N.  of  the  fort, 
])ertaining  to  a  branch  of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  which  diverges 
from  the  main  lino  at  Leicester  Junction.  The  new  route  from  New  York 
to  Montreal  (W.  of  L.  Cliamplain)  most  of  wliicli  is  nov>'  in  working  order, 
passes  near  the  fort  on  the  W.  Steamers  going  eaeli  way  stop  here  twice 
daily,  and  the  Lake  George  stages  leave  early  each  afternoon.  The  ruins 
of  the  fort  crown  the  high  liill  near  the  steamljoat  pier,  and  are  (piite 
picturesque,  and  command  extensive  lako-views.  The  sally-port  where 
the  Green  Mt.  Boys  entered,  the  old  well,  the  crumbling  walls  of  the 
barracks  sui'rounding  the  parade,  and  the  well-defined  dry  ditches  beyond 
tlie  ramparts  may  easily  be  recognized.  In  one  of  the  E.  bastions  is  a 
deep  and  cavernous  vault  which  it  is  surmised  was  the  garrison  bakery. 
On  the  high  point  S.  E.  of  the  fort  is  the  well-preserved  Grenadiers'  Bat- 
tery, erected  to  command  tlie  landing-place  and  to  defend  the  long  brii'lgi'. 
to  Mt.  Ridependence.  Tliere  is  another  small  battery  surrounded  by  a 
wet  ditch,  on  the  plain  to  the  N.,  while  the  forests  to  the  S.  and  W.  are 
furrowed  with  intrenchments  and  lines  of  parallels,  redoubts,  and  rilh- 
pits.  From  the  ramparts  of  the  fort  Mt.  Independence  is  seen  to  the  8. 
E.,  across  the  lake,  and  Mt.  Defiance  to  the  S.  W»,  across  the  wideniiig.s 
of  the  outlet  of  Lake  Gecge.  The  latter  summit  is  800  ft.  above  the 
lake,  and  commands  a  noble  view  over  its  placid  waters.  It  is  l.'o.st 
ascended  by  following  the  nearly  obliterated  military  road  of  Burgoyi;e 
from  Ticonderoga  village  (3  M.  fi-om  the  fort  to  the  summit).  Others, 
who  are  fond  of  the  fine  rowhig  which  is  obtained  here,  cross  the  bay  iu 
a  boat,  and  scramble  up  through  the  forest  to  the  summit.  A  road  runs 
W.  from  Ticonderoga  to  Paradox  and  Schroon  Lakes. 

Ticonderoga  is  a  niodilieation  of  Cheonderogo,  the  ohl  Iroquois  name  for  this 
locality.    It  meant  "sounding  waters,"  and  apphed  especially  to  the  tails  on  the 


li. 


',..\:,  A.  M. 

1)   »">  A.  M.. 

ith  8tii;4«'H 
1.  arriving 
Mc  nialit- 


xw  Point, 
uring  tlio 
oming  on 
liui.ls"  U»'. 
,vcll  (both 


FOUT  TICOXDEUOGA. 


Route  /)3.     363 


?.  near  the 
,f  the  fort, 
^h  tU  verges 
I  New  York 
•king  order, 
I  here  twice 
The  ruins 
(1  are  (luite 
-port  whore 
alls  of  the 
ihes  beyontl 
.stions  is  a 
hakery. 
Iiatliers'  Bat- 
long  hrit'lge 
luutled  by  a 
aud  W.  are 
:s,  and  ritle- 
'n  to  the  B. 
le  wideuings 
It.  above  the 
It  is  best 
if  Burgoyr.e 
t).     Others, 
the  bay  iu 
road  runs 


Inanie  for  this 
falls  ou  the 


outlet  of  r.ake  Ooorj;e.  Cajit.  Glen  in  Hpoken  of  as  IioMIiik  this  poiiit  with  a 
jijclift  nf';t;{  iiion,  ill  16'.>n,  and  111  KilU  it  was  f(irtifli'«|  byC.il  Hclmyli'i,  wlio  wun 
tlifii  Iriiliii;^  a  forcti  aKaiiist  l^a  I'raifie.  In  IT/i")  tiic  Mai(|nis  i\v  iMitntrilin  occii- 
]>i('(l  Uk-  place  with  a  stinn^  FrtMicli  aniiy,  iind  liiiilt  cxttMisive  worlds,  wiii<h  he 
iiaiiinl  I'ort  Carillnii  I  ("cliiiiH!  of  hells"),  in  allusimi  to  tlio  musical  casjaih'S 
in  till!  vi<'inity.  Gen.  Alieni'inniiie,  haviii.:,'  dcsiTuded  iiaUe.  {lenr^'e  with  7,000 
IJritisli  r(';,'iilars  and  '.".ooo  provincial  troops,  attempted  to  stonn  the  fort,  .Inly  8, 
IT.'iS.  Tlie  scouts  told  Ahercronihie  that  the  fort  was  weak,  and  he  knew  that 
reinforeeiiieiits  were  Inirryiu;;  to  the  garrison,  so  au  assault  was  onhsroil.  In  ad- 
vancing'tliroii;,'h  tin;  forest  a  deta(diinciit  of  l.'iO  Frencliiucn  boldly  en;^'a,L;ed  and 
clieckrd  the  van-L,oiard.  Isra(d  rntiiaiii  and  Lord  Howe  hastened  up  to  tlie  scene 
nt' the  skirmish,  ami  Howe  was  almost  instantly  killed.  "His  mainn-rs  and  his 
virtues  made  him  the  idol  of  the  army,"  and  "  in  him  the  soul  of  the,  army  sccmcil 
to  exiiire."  Massachusetts  erected  a  monument  to  this  ^'allaiit  nolileman  in 
Westminster  Abhcy.  The  Kremdi  dutachment  was  exterminated,  hut  the  An;,do- 
Anierii'an  trooi)s  became  cntau;;!*'!!  in  the  forest  and  be;an  to  lirt;  on  each  other, 
until  they  were  withdr.nwn.  (i.OOO  pi<'ked  niei\  were  led  out  to  storm  tlie  I-Ycnch 
works,  which  consisted  of  a  breastwork  (8  ft.  hi,i,di)  au<l  abatis,  defended  by  l.OoO 
men  with  artillery.  Four  hours  of  fearless  <'harKin^,'  aud  bloody  repulses  ensued, 
and  the  few  men  who  Ki'ined  the  ])arap(!t  dieil  tliere  on  the  veiKc  of  victory.  At  7 
in  the  evening',  after  three  heroic  assaults  had  failed,  and  scver.d  boats  had  been 
sank  on  the  lake  with  all  on  board  by  the  artillery  of  the  tort,  the  army  re- 
treated, lejivin;;  nearly  -',000  men  dcail  and  \vounde(l  on  the  (ifdd.  Lord  .lohn 
JIurray'.s  ni;,dilaiul  re^duieut(so  distiiiKnished  at  Fontenoy,  1".  years  before)  lost  j 
of  its  men  and  2.j  oHic<us.  In  March,  IT^'jS,  llo;.,'ers'  IlauKcrs  were  disastrously 
repid.seil  from  the  outworks  of  Carillon.  In  the  summer  of  17.V.>  Lord  Amlier.st 
nilvanced  from  the  S.  with  11,000  men,  and  the  F'rencli  fiarrison,  w(>ak(>ned  by  the 
necessity  of  meeting  Wolfe  before  Quebec,  evacuated  the  place  after  burning  tho 
barracks  and  e.\[ilodin;,'  the  ma^^azine. 

At  dawn,  May  10,  177.0,  the  fort  was  surprised  and  taken  by  8.5  Xew  En,!,dan<l 
men,  who  liad  crossed  the  lake  on  the  juevious  eveniui;.  They  \vere  comniandeil 
by  Kthan  Allen  and  IJenedict  Arnold,  who  led  tluMU  tlirough  the  '.^ate  and  out  on 
tlie  para'"'?,  where  (it  is  said)  Allen  aroused  Cai)t.  de  la  IMac  o,  tht  comman<lant. 
and  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  fort  "in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and 
the  Continental  Congress."  4;j  soldiers  were  surrendere<l  with  the  fort,  to^^ether 
with  176  cannon  and  vast  supplies  of  ammunition.  When  Bur.i^'oync  advanced, 
ill  the  suiniuer  of  1777,  and  Arnold's  fleet  had  been  defeated  ou  tlu!  lake,  the  de- 
fence of  Fort  Ticonderoya  was  intrusted  to  Gen.  .St.  Clair,  with  .'.(iOO  Continental 
troops,  OOO  militia,  and  47  fortress-cannon.  He  destroyed  the  works  toward  liake 
George,  and  strongly  i'ortilicd  Mt.  Indeiiendence  (remnants  of  the  star-fort,  and 
graves  of  hundreils  who  died  of  canip-distenii)er  are  now  found  in  the  young  forest 
on  the,  mt.).  The  bridge  to  Mt.  Independence  was  a  iiowcrful  floating  structure, 
siii)iM)rted  by  22  sunken  piers  and  many  lloats.  Burgoyne's  fleet  was  cannonaded 
mid  forced  to  keep  out  of  gun-shot,  but  the  British  succc(!ded  in  getting  cannon 
up  on  Mt  Defiance,  with  which  a  ])lunging  fin;  was  openetl  on  the  fort.  On  the 
night  of  July  (5,  St.  Clair  evacuated  the  position,  and  would  liave  escaped  but  that 
Gen.  de  Fernioy  set  lire  to  his  (piarterson  Mt.  Indepeudeiiee.  The  aroused  enemy 
made  rapid  pursuit,  defeated  St.  Clair's  rear-guard  at  Ilubburdton,  ami  took  Ids 
artillery  and  stores  at  Whitehall,  with  '200  galleys  and  the  remnant  of  Arnold's 
fleet.  Ten  weeks  later,  Col.  IJrown,  of  Mass.,  with  1,000  men  of  New  Faigland, 
captured  the  outworks  of  Ticonderoga,  with  *J00  batteaux,  20.'i  i)risoners,  .">  cannon, 
and  a  war-ves.sel,  and  delivered  100  Ameriean  jirisoners  and  a  Continental  flag. 
The  fort  was  dismantled  a  few  weeks  later,  and  in  1780  was  re-occn]>icd  by  Gen. 
Haldiniand  with  troojis  from  Montreal.  Since  the  Revolution,  Ticinderoga  has 
not  been  oecu])ied,  and  for  many  years  it  suffered  a  gradual  demolition,  —  its  well- 
cut  stone  and  brick  being  carried  away  by  ve.ssel-loads  to  the  rising  villages  on 
tlie  lake'.  It  is  now  .sealed  from  such  invasions,  ami  is  becoming  known  as  one  of 
the  classic  and  lieroic  grounds  of  .\merica.  July  18,  1872,  the  Vermont  Historical 
Society  had  a  licld-day  here,  and  there  wereio.oiio  iieojjle  present.  The  fort  is  on 
a  iieninsula  rising  100  ft.  from  tin;  lake,  with  water  on  three  sides  and  swami>y 
land  on  the  fourth.     The  peninsula  covers  over  500  acres. 


,  1 "  La  Drapeau  dc  Carilloa ' 
(Quebec. 


is  an  old  Canadian  song,  which  may  still  be  heard  in  I<ower 


Il 


'  \ 


I" 

V 


t 

I 


t 


i  !■ 

•t-i 

ii'       i: 

1 


3G4     Rnul^  6S. 


CROWN  POINT. 


'I- 


11 


■  Tlie  steamer  passes  throiigli  tlie  raihvay-bridgo  soon  after  leaving  Tort 
Ticonder  ga.  Ijeantiful  views  are  oecasionally  gained  of  Camel's  Hump 
and  Mt.  Mansfield  on  the  E.,  and  the  majestic  Adirondacks  on  the  N.  \V. 
Tlie  boat  stops  at  Lavrabee's  Point  in  the  Vermont  town  of  Shoreham, 
and  then  at  Cv  ,ni  Point  ((Junnison's  Hotel),  ',)  M.  M  of  Crown  Point  vil- 
lage, whence  a  roail  runs  W.  to  I'aradox  and  Schroon  liakes  and  the  Aili- 
rondacks.  A  short  distance  Iwyond  this  landing,  the  steamer  passes 
through  the  narrows  between  Chimney  Point  (on  the  E.)  and 

Crown  Point. 

Tlie  ruins  of  the  fortress  of  Crown  Point  occu]\v  the  high  promontory  be- 
tween the  lake  and  tlie  broad  IJulwagga  Bay.  The  jioint  is  reached  either 
by  boat  from  Port  Henry,  or  by  carriage  around  tin;  bottom  of  the  bay 
{6-7  M.).  Theie  is  a  liglithouse  on  the  point,  but  otherwise  it  is  aban- 
doned to  its  ancient  remains  of  strength  and  pride.  The  immense  ram- 
jiarts  and  ditcluis  of  the  fort,  its  broad  para<le,  and  the  thick  stone  walls 
of  the  l)arra('ks  are  richly  worthy  of  attention,  while  from  the  walls  of  the 
northern  bastions  are  ol)tained  supei'b  views  of  the  Green  Rlts.  in  the  K. 
and  the  rugged  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  W.,  with  the  lake 
stretching  away  for  many  leagues  in  the  N.  The  jieninsula  is  about  1  Jl. 
wide,  and  has  only  a  thin  robe  of  earth  over  limestone  ledges,  whose  cut- 
ting away  cost  enormously  during  the  erection  of  the  fortress.  '"  yards 
N.  E.  of  the  great  fort,  and  near  the  water,  are  the  ruins  of  the  c  ncli 

work,  Fort  Frederick.  In  the  N.  E.  bastion  is  a  well  cut  in  the  rock,  S 
ft.  in  vliameter  and  90  ft.  in  depth,  which  was  cleared  out  by  a  stock  com- 
pany in  1824,  in  the  hope  of  finding  treasure.  There  have  been  many  ex- 
cavations here  with  this  object,  but  only  old  iron  and  lead  has  yet  been 
found.  The  ramparts  arc  brilliant  with  blood-red  thorn-ai^iiles  (in  their 
season)  on  great  thickets  of  bushes.  These  peculiar  trees  are  found  no- 
"^v.l';re  else  in  the  State,  and  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  France. 

In  July,  1G09,  Cliaiiiplain,  2  Frendnnen,  ami  GO  Ilurons  came  up  to  this  roiiif 
in  24 bark  canoeS;  and  here  tliey  laiuloil  and  defeated  the  Iroquois,  after  passiii,' 
the  night  in  martial  rites  and  singing  the  war-song.  This  was  2  months  liufoiK 
Hendrick  Hudson  had  discovered  the  nolilo  river  which  has  been  nuiued  in  his 
lionor.  In  1G.'U  the  Froneh  oecupied  Point  ;i  la  Chevelure  (opposite  this  place), 
built  a  stone  fort  and  armed  it  with  5  cannon,  and  established  a  fanning  eoiii- 
niunity.  In  1G(36  De  Coureelles  ascended  by  boats  (with  GOO  men)  to  Crown  Point, 
whence  he  marched  into  the  Mohawk  country,  and  on  the  retreat,  some  time  af- 
ter, the  force  halted  here  several  days  for  their  stragglers  to  come  up.  The  de- 
stroyers of  Schenectady  were  pursued  to  Crown  Point  (in  the  winter  oi"  1G90),  but 
here  they  put  on  skates  and  escaped.  In  IT^l  Fort  Frederick  was  built  here  by 
the  French,  and  iinmed  in  honor  of  Frederick  Maurepas,  Premier  of  the  kingdom. 
The  shores  were  then  more  thickly  settled  than  now,  for  many  miles  N.  and  S. 
In  1759,  after  the  fall  of  Ticonderoga, tlie  fort  was  abandoned,  and,  the  Point  bein.i: 
occupied  by  Lord  Amherst,  vast  fortifications  were  erected  here,  which  cost  thr 
British  government  §10,000,000.  In  177;5  the  barracks  took  tire  and  the  ])OW(hir 
magazine  blew  up,  jtartly  demolishing  tlie  works,  and  in  1775  Warner's  Green  ,Mi. 
Boys  captured  the  fort.     7,000  Americans  retreated  here  from  Canada  in  177(),  ;iii(l 


\ 


t 


■i>: 


BUU[JN(}T()N. 


livutc  53.     3G5 


in;;  Tort 
s  IIuiiii) 
K-  N.  \V. 
lort'liaiii, 
'oint  vil- 
tit"  A.li- 


ntory  Ix'- 
ii'ileillicr 
the  l);iy 
is  abaii- 
Misc  rain- 
Dne  vails 
ills  of  tlir 
ill  the  K. 
the  lake 
jout  1  ^1. 
hoso  cut- 
•'      yards 
iicli 
e  rock,  S 
;ock  cuiu- 
luany  cx- 
yet  been 
(in  their 
ound  no- 
France. 

:1iis  To'\\\> 

r  passiii ; 

ths  lieftin; 

iii;(l  ill  his 

lis  place), 

uiiig  coiii- 

)Wii  Puint, 

e  time  af- 

The  do- 

1G90),  but 

t  here  by 

kiiigcloiii, 

IN.  and  S. 

oiut  beiii.i; 

1    cost    till' 

e  ])0\vili<r 
Gieeii  -M' 
I  177(5,  ami 


Itimdrcdd  <1!ed  from  Hinall  ]k)>c.     In  1777  HiirKoyiie  niaiU>  tli<- tort  IiIh  main  tle^iot 
oJ'siijiplies  ill  fill)  advaiici'  lui  Albany.     The  hut  hiiilt  liy  l,nii[  Amheist  was  \  M, 

iii'oiiixl,  and  its  ranipartH  were  'lb  tt.  Iiigh  and  '2r)ft.  titiek.    It  inHtii'  lug I  preHer- 

vatiiui. 

.liiNt  beyond  Crown  Point  the  stoanior  8toi).s  at  Port  Henry  (two  inns), 
a  iiictnres<|n('ly  sitnated  villaj^i-,  with  iron  works  and  mines.  Ilulwaj^^a 
Hay  is  seen  openiii},'  to  the  .S.  After  leaviii},'  Pert  Henry,  a  fine  view  is 
oiitaiiietl  of  Mie  Adirondacks  in  the  W.,  JJahl  ami  Dix  I'eaks  and  tluj 
CJiaiit  of  the  Valley  being  foremost  in  the  groiii).  The  steamer  next 
tonclies  nt  Wcstport  (two  inns),  on  the  W.  shore,  with  a  roatl  running  W. 
into  the  Adirondaeks,  by  Klizaliethtown  to  W'liite  Face  Mt.  On  the  K. 
shore  are  seen  the  spires  of  tlie  city  iif  Vergennes,  ami  Hit!  inins  of  Fort 
Cassiii,  where  Lieut.  Cassiii,  of  the  IT.  »S.  Navy,  repelled  an  attack  on 
Macdonougii's  fleet,  which  was  being  fittod  out  at  Vergennes.  Split 
Kock  Mt.  frowns  along  the  W.  shore,  and  is  mirrored  in  waters  of  un- 
known dejith.  Konnding  the  lighthouse  at  the  head  of  the  promontory, 
llie  steamer  touches  at  Kssex  {Itoi/ce's  Ilntd),  whence  another  road  lead.s 
lull)  the  Adirondacks.  The  course  from  Essex  is  N.  E.,  passing  the  Four 
Jjiuthers  and  Juniper  Isles,  ami  approaching  and  stopping  at 

Burlington 

(*  American  House;  Van  Ness  House),  the  Queen  City  of  Vermont," 
beautifully  situated  on  a  long,  sloping  hill  on  the  E.  shore  of  Burlington 
JJay.  It  is  the  largest  city  in  the  State,  liaving  a  jiopulation  of  about 
15,000,  with  15  churches,  2  banks,  1  daily  and  2  weekly  nev,  spajiers. 
In  1798  Burlington  had  S15  inhabitants,  and  between  1860  and  1870  it 
[/ained  105  per  cent  in  population.  It  became  a  city  in  18G5,  and  is  now 
the  third  lumber-mart  in  America.  Most  of  thelumber  is  brought  from 
the  Canadian  forests,  and  sorted  and  planed  liere,  after  which  it  is  sent  by 
rail  to  Boston  and  other  Eastern  cities.  Immense  quantities  are  loaded 
iliiectly  from  the  cars  to  the  vessels  (in  Boston)  which  convey  them  to 
distant  ports.  40-50,000,000  ft.  of  lumber  are  yearly  sent  out  from 
Burlington.  The  wharves  and  grounds  about  the  freight  station  are 
usually  covered  with  immense  piles  of  plank  and  lioards.  Several  of  the 
churches  are  fine  buildings,  especially  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary,  a  large 
ami  picturesquely  irregular  structure.  St.  Paul's  Episcoi)al  Church  is  au 
old  Gothic  building  of  blue  limestone,  with  stained  windows.  This  is  tho 
church  of  the  Bishop,  whose  diocese  (the  State  of  Vt.)  has  27  priests  and 
2,655  communicants.  There  are  also  handsome  Congregational  and 
Methodist  churches,  built  of  Burlington  stone.  Near  the  square  in  the 
centre  of  the  city  is  a  fine  U.  S.  building  (Post  OfHce  and  Custom  House), 
and  the  elegant  Court  House  of  Chittenden  County. 

The  University  of  Vermont  occupies  an  eligible  situation  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Burlington  Hill,  1  M.  from  the  Bay  and  3G7  ft.  above  it.    This  in- 


if 


mm 


3GG    Route  53. 


BURLINGTON. 


•f 

&  ■;■ 

i  { 


H 


r- 


I 


I   .' 


stitution  was  incorpor<ate<l  in  1791,  atid  be<?an  operations  in  1800,  the 
President  V>eing  the  only  instructor  for  the  tirst  (>  years,  wlien  about  30 
students  were  entere'l  here.  Its  connection  with  the  State  is  but  nominal, 
and  lias  brought  it  no  emolument  since  its  foundation,  when  Vermont 
endowed  it  with  a  grant  of  29,000  acres  of  land.  Ii^  1813  the  building 
was  taken  by  the  United  States,  and  retained  throughout  the  war  for  an 
nr.scaai  and  barracks.  In  IS'24  the  buihlings  were  burnt,  and  rebuilt  in 
1825.  tiie  corner-stone  being  laid  by  Gen.  Lafayette.  The  three  buildings 
have  been  united  in  one,  and  surmounted  by  a  briglit,  tin-covered  dome. 
In  1871  the  University  hud  lo  instructors,  114  students,  and  ir),000  vol- 
umes in  its  library.  There  are  about  900  alumni.  Tlie  medical  depart- 
ment had,  in  1871,  5  instructors  and  25  students,  and  in  1865  the  State 
Agricultui'al  College  was  united  with  the  University.  There  are  50,000 
specimens  in  the  natural  history  cabinet.'-.  From  the  dome  of  the  Uni- 
versity a  superb  *  view  is  enjoyed. 

On  tlie  W.,  Lake,  Cliain;ilaiii  is  seen  f''om  bclovv  Crown  Point  on  tho  S.  to  Platt^- 
burg  on  the  N.,  v.itlMiunu'rous  islands  surrounded  by  tliu  bright  waters  which 
liavii  lu'conio  liassic  In  American  history.  Beyond  the  lake  the  Adirundacks  till 
the  horizon,  over  ()()  j)eaks  being  visible  on  a  cleiU' day  ;  pronnnent  among  which 
un^  Mclntyre,  Whitefuce,  and  Marcy,  the  latter  being  the  highest  jteak  Iwtween 
tin-  White  and  the  Alleghany  Alts.  Lake  Chaniplain  is  10  M.  >vide  here,  and  near 
the  niidiUe  are  seen  the  islets  called  the  F.-iu-  brothers.  The  ])lainsof  Chittenden 
Co.  are  seen  in  the  N.  E.  over  the  little  vill.ige  <.!  Winooski,  and  in  the  E.  are  the 
•stav  iy  Green  Mts.,  the  Tr /7s  iVr(«/.s  for  whicli  the  fState  wr.s  named.  Mt.  Mans- 
^iehl,  Camel's  Hump,  and  other  well-known  peaks  are  i)lainly  visible,  with  a  vast 
expanse  of  (arm-land  tilling  the  foreground.  Uurlington  City  is  overlooked  on 
the  W.,  stretching  down  to  the  shores  of  its  bay.  The  *  sunset  over  the  lake  and 
the  Adirondacks  when  seen  from  this  point,  or  from  the  little  park  N.  VV.  of  tho 
central  squar.>,  is  full  r.i  beauty.  *'  .Splendor  o  lund.scape  is  the  peculiar  boast  of 
Uurlington,"  said  Pres.  Dwight  in  17!i8  ;  and  Fredrika  Bremer  speaks  of  the  dis- 
tiUit  "mountain  forms  pictures(iuely  coml)!!!!!!  with  a  certain  degree  of  grandeur 
ami  V)ohlnes.s."  The  view  looking  W.  towards  a  jieak  which  she  calls''/^  'ion 
cvitrluoit"  she  jironounced  sujjerior  to  any  lake  view  which  she  had  ever  seen,  ex- 
cepting only  one  on  Lake  Geneva. 

Near  the  University  is  the  Green  Mt.  Cemetery,  in  which  Ethan  Allen 
is  buried,  under  a  Tuscan  column  42  ft.  high,  and  a  sliort  distance  be- 
yond is  the  village  of  Winooski,  at  the  lower  falls  on  the  Winooski  River. 
Near  this  village  is  a  romantic  canon  on  the  river,  at  the  IIi;/h  Bridcje, 
where  the  impetuous  stream  has  cut  a  goi-ge  through  the  solid  rock  90  ft. 
deep  and  70  ft.  wide. 

Burlington  is  an  academic  city,  having  besides  the  University  several 
fine  .schools,  among  which  is  tlie  Female  Seminary  (established  1835), 
which  has  nearly  900  alunuuT.  The  Sennnni-y  has  handsome  building.s  on 
a  hillside  near  the  lake.  The  Vermont  J-Jjiscopal  InstUnte  is  on  Rock 
Point,  2-3  M.  from  the  citj',  and  near  the  lake.  It  has  u  fine  marble 
building  in  the  collegiate  Gothic  architecture,  with  a  email  but  elegant 
chapel,  a  massive  tower,  and  a  library  which  is  rich  in  patristic  literature. 
The  theological  department  has  5  i)rofessors  and  50  students,  with  231 


! 

I 


f 


rLATTSBURG. 


Houie  53.     3G7 


00,  tlie 
)out  30 
(iminal, 
erniont 
miUliug 
for  an 
built  ill 
iiildings 
L  dome. 
)00  vol- 
dej)art- 
\(i  State 
!  50,000 
he  Uiu- 


to  Platte- 
rs whicli 
lacks  nil 
iij^  wliiili 

lK!tWl't;ll 

and  iii'iir 
liittendi'ii 
K.  arc  the 
At.  Maiis- 
itli  a  vast 
noked  on 
lake  and 
iV.  of  tlio 
boast  of 
If  the  dis- 
^'ran<loui' 
"  If  'ion 
seen, ex- 


[n  Allen 
nice  be- 
Li  River. 

Ik  90  ft. 

several 
ll  1835), 
lliiiga  on 
]u  Rr>ck 
marble 

1  elegant 

n-ature. 

lith  231 


alumni,  and  is  called  the  most  expensive  divlnity-scliool  in  tlie  Union. 
About  2  M.  S.  of  the  city  is  the  U,  S.  Marino  llosi)ital,  fronting  on  the 
lake. 

Burlinj?ton  was  settled  ahouv.  1775,  and  named  in  honor  of  tlic  Bnrlin-;  family 
(of  New  York),  who  were  ai..i>ii<i  the  grantees.  It  lay  on  the  route  V)y  the  Winoo- 
ski  Valley,  whieh  had  been  so  often  traversed  by  the  northern  Indians  in  tlieir 
attacks  oil  Miiss.  It  was  fortilied  and  "garrisoned  by  4,000  troops  in  tii»  War  of 
1812,  and  in  the  War  of  18G1  -.')  sent  many  soldiers  to  the  national  armies. 

Stages  leave  Burlington  daily  tor  the  rr.ral  towns  of  St.  (>eorg«'  and  Ilinesburg. 

Two  trains  daily  leave  iJuriii  gton  for  Montreal.     From  Burlington  to   Essex 
.lunctiou  it  is  8  M.     ' 
hours. 


Essex  t'j  Montreal,  see  page  'Mi..    Distance,  103  M.,  in  5i-6 


Leaving  Burlington,  the  steamer  run.s  N.  W.  across  the  lake  to  Po^t 
Kent  (2  hotels),  a  small  villag^i  under  Mt.  Trembleau,  and  important  for 
its  exportation  of  iron.  The  old  Watson  Mansion  is  seen  on  a  hill  over 
the  village.  Stages  riui  from  Tort  Kent  to  the  Ausable  Chasm,  with  its 
grand  succession  of  cascades  an  I  gorges.  The  Adirondack  and  Ausable 
Houses  are  at  Keeseville,  near  the  Chasm.  Stages  also  run  to  leaker's 
Saranac  Lake  House  (-IG  M.  W.;,  while  a  road  diverging  to  the  S.  \V.  at 
the  Ausable  Forks  enters  the  nts.  through  Wilmington  Notch  and  by 
Wliite  Face  and  Lake  Placid.  6-8  M.  N.  of  Port  Kent  the  steamer 
passes  between  Valcour  Island  and  the  mainland.  In  this  channel  Ar- 
nold's fleet,  consisting  of  15  vessels  with  70  cannon,  was  attacked  by  a 
British  squadron  of  31  ves.«;  Is.  After  a  hot  day's  battle,  in  Avhich  2  of 
Arnold's  and  3  British  vessels  were  sunk,  the  Americans  tried  to  retreat 
by  night,  but  were  closely  pursued.  The  flagship  "Congress"  was  sur- 
rounded by  hostile  ships,  but  fought  desperately  for  4  hours,  until  the 
van  and  centre  of  the  fleet  luul  escaped.  Then  Arnold  ran  her  and  the 
attendant  galleys  ashore  below  Port  Kent,  and  blew  them  np  (Oct.  11, 
177t5).  Grand  Isle,  or  South  Hero,  is  now  passed  on  the  E.,  and  the  vil- 
lage of  Plattsburg  (FouqueVt-  Hotel  ;  Cumberland  House)  is  reached.  It 
is  a  llouri.>'.hing  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River,  and  is  the  .shire- 
town  of  Clinton  County  (N.  Y. ),  and  a  garrisoned  post  of  the  U.  S.  Army. 
There  is  a  railway  from  Plattsburg  to  Montreal  (()3Jt  M.  ;  trains  in  -U  -  5 
lirs.) ;  also  to  the  Ausable  River  (20  M.  ;  trains  in  H-2  lirs.).  The  lat- 
ter road,  with  the  stages  which  connect  at  the  Ausable  River,  forms  the 
liest  route  to  the  Saranac  and  St.  Regis  Lakes,  and  the  lofty  central  group 
of  the  Adirondack  Mts.  The  Long,  Raquette,  Fulton,  and  Tnpper  Lakes 
are  most  easily  reached  by  the  Adirondack  Railroad  (from  Saratoga). 

So|it.  7,  1S14,  Pl'ittsbiirg  was  menaced  by  a  British  anny  of  1-1,000  men  under 
Sir  George  Prevost,  supported  by  a  fleet  of  1(5  vessels,  witli  '.Tj  guns  and  1 ,000  nii-n. 
The  defence  was  conducted  by  (Jen.  Macomb,  with  ;j,Oi;0  men  in  tlie  village,  and 
Cimiinodovo  Macdonoiigli,  with  a  "lect  of  14  vessels,  8(i  guns,  and  SSO  men.  When 
tlie  British  He»'t  rounded  Cnniberl.ind  Head  for  the  attack,  Maeilouough  was  kiied- 
iiij;  1)11  his  deck  jiraying.  A  rooster,  who  had  got  loose  m  the  liurry  of  iin-jjara- 
ti'Mi,  lli'w  upon  one  of  the  "Saratoga's"  guns  ami  crowed  lustily,  upon  whi(di  the 
iiicii  gave  three  (dieers  and  weiit  to  work  with  a  will.  .\s  the  fleets  met,  the  two 
flagships  engafe'ed  each  other,  and  the  American  "  Saratoga  "  was  sadly  cut  up  by 


i 

*9 


^   jm'itmfmmmm 


^. 


3G8    Route  54. 


jaONTHEAL. 


the  more i)o\vorfi(l  Biitisli  vessel,  tlie  "Conrianct'."  By  ;i  skilful  maiKX'Uvre  Mao- 
(li)iiou^')i  swiiiii;  his  ship  around,  ind  i)res<'iit('(l  tlio  iiiiiii.jurt'il  side  and  battery  tn 
the  eueiiiy,  who  was  unable  to  imitate  tiiis  action,  and  was  speedily  forced  to 
yiehl.  After  2h  hours  of  iii'cssnnt  cannonade,  the  battle  was  decided  against  the 
British,  who  lost  all  theii  .ssels  save  a  fewrow-f;alleys.  In  the  mean  time,  Pre- 
vost  was  rei)ulsed  by  till  -uldiers  at  Platlsbnrg,  and  lost  heavily,  besides  being 
forced  to  abandon  much  of  his  arJlleiy  and  stores. 

Tlie  steamer  passes  down  the  l)ay  and  rounds  Cumberland  Head,  witli 
Grand  hie  on  the  E,  The  sh  Dres  now  become  more  level,  and  the  mts. 
are  only  seen  in  retrospective  .iews.  Tlie  islands  of  North  Hero  and  Isle 
La  Mott^i,  and  the  peninsula  of  Alburpfh  are  passed  on  tlie  E.,  and  (25  M. 
N.  of  Plattshurg)  the  steamer  j^tops  at  Rouse's  Point  (see  page  207).  Two 
trains  daily  run  from  this  i>la(e  to  Montreal  (50  M.)  in  2\  hrs.,  following 
the  Richelieu  River  to  St.  Johns  (see  page  208),  and  thence  crossing  the 
parishes  of  La  Prairie  and  Loi  gueil  to  I\Iontreal. 


i  '. 


J       ':■ 


6'L  Montreal 

Hotels.  —  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  on  Groat  Ht.  James  St.  ;  Ottawa  House,  Great 
f^aint  .lames  !St.  ;  Donnegana  House,  Notre  Dame  St.  ;  Albion  Hotel,  $1.50  a  dav, 
McGill  St. 

Carriages.  One-horse  carriage,  for  1-2  pijrsons,  25e.  a  course  (within  the 
city),  50c.  an  hour  ;  for  8-4  jiers  ms,  40c.  a  course,  70c.  an  hour.  Two-horse  car- 
riages, for  1-2  persons,  40c.  a  coi  rse,  75('.  an  hour  ;  for  3-4  persons,  50c.  a  course, 
8  1 .00  an  hour. 

Shops.  Tlie  most  attractive  ire  on  Great  Saint  James  and  Notre  Dame  Sts, 
Ameiican  money  is  usually  recei'ed  at  the  reigning  rates  of  exchange,  but  it  is  ad- 
vi.sable  to  punliase  sutlicient  Canadian  money  for  the  tour  at  some  reputable 
bank. 

Horse-cars  run  across  the  c  ty  on  Craig,  Bleury,  and  St.  Catharine  Sts.  ;  also 
on  St.  Mai'y,  Notre  Dnine,  and  St.  Joseph  Sts^  ;  also  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St. 

RBilways.  To  Bostnii,  by  St.  All)ans,  Concord,  and  Lowell  (Route  29),  3'M 
M.  (or  by  way  of  Fitchburg,  344  M.) ;  to  New  York,  bv  Rutland  and  Aibanv,  3(j5 
M.  (by  ];,ake  Chamiilain,  4Uo  M.)  :  to  Quebec,  172  M."(in  7  hrs.);  to  Plattsburg, 
03  M.  ;  to  Rouse's  Pohit,  50  M.  ;  to  Toronto,  333  ,M.  (14-  15  hrs.) ;  to  Detroit(S01 
M.)  and  Chicago  (1,145  M.) ;  to  C'ttawa,  104  M.  Steamers  run  to  all  the  St.  L.uv- 
reuce  and  Lake  port.s. 


■!    > 

•i"    ,> 


I  s 


•     > 

'  3 


In  the  year  T535  Jacques  Cartic  •  visited  the  trij>le-walled  Indian  village  of  Hoehe- 
laga,  and  asceiuled  the  lofty  hill  hehind  it,  which,  from  the  Ixauty  of  its  view,  lie 
named  Mount  Royal.  Tlie  jilace  was  visited  by  Chamiilain  in  1('(()3,  and  was  .settled 
by  a  small  cclony  of  Freiiehmeu.  .\  tax-gatherer  of  .Vnjou  and  a  priest  of  Paris 
heard  celestial  voices,  bidding  them  to  found  a  hospital  (Hotel  Dieu)  and  a  college 
of  priests  at  Mount  Royal,  and  tlie  voices  wen;  followed  liy  aiiparitionsof  the  Vir- 
gin and  the  Saviour.  Filled  with  sacred  zivil,  and  brought  together  by  a  singuhir 
accident,  these  men  won  several  nobles  of  France  to  aid  their  cause,  then  bougliL 
the  Isle  of  Mount  Royal,  and  firmed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal. 
With  the  Lord  of  Maisoniieuve  and  4.')  associates,  'in  a  solemn  service  held  in  tln^ 
Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  de  Paris,  tiiev  (Consecrated  the  island  to  the  llolv  Family 
lUider  the  name  of  "Ville  .Marie  de  .Montreal  ^  (Feb.,  1041).  May  IS.  1042,  Mai- 
soniieuve and  his  peojile  landed  at  Montreal  and  raised  ai  altar,  before  wliieli, 
when  high  mass  was  concluded,  the  priest  said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard- 
seed  that  shall  arise  and  grow  ui  til  its  branches  overshadow  the  land.  You  are 
few.  but  your  work  is  the  work  (  f  (iod.  ITis  smile  is  on  you,  and  your  children 
shall  lill  the  land."  Tlie  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  in  1047,  and  in  1057  the  Siiliii- 
eians  of  i*aris  cstablishcda  scmii,ai'y  here.    In  Uis.t,  l,4oO  Iroquuis  Intlians  storme  I 


^    >•'• 


iivre  Mao- 
battery  t() 
forced  to 
gainst  the 
tmip,  I're- 
ides  being 

;ead,  wiUi 
the  mts. 
■0  ami  Isle 
tnd  (25  M. 
>07).  Two 
,  following 
i-ossing  the 


House,  Great 
,$1.50  a  day, 

e  (within  tlie 
wo-horse  car- 
50c.  a  course. 

re  Dame  Sts. 
0,  \)ut  it  is  ad- 
)nie  reputable 

•ine  Sts.  ;  also 

ice  Main  St. 

[^outc  20),  334 

I  xVlbany,  :50u 

,,  Plattsburji, 

M  Detroit  (801 

the  St.  Law- 


r 


H 


ALT" 

•chhigltop's  Palace.  T  4. 

lack  Xuniifry.  E. .'». 

ra.;^-  „  A.;J. 

iitin4iry  of' St.  Sulpice.  K.  ;>. 

„  Priests.  A.X' 

Murys  CoIUtf,:  D. .{. 

/■.  dill  C  t!. 

Olson's         „  II. 4. 

"ni^rcil.  irosftilnl .  Ii.'l4. 

')M  rticu  E.l 

Wifijuf  JihtAr.  B.:J. 

'.ctoria  Square.  I).  4. 

lare^  D'Arm*-s.  .  £..'». 

'ffer  Square.    .  F.  4. 

^uiiup  tie  Mars  V.  4. 

Ilolol.s. 

'.  Lfiwren  ce  I  fall .  E .  4. 

James i).4. 

ttawa..  .D.S. 

Ihion.  D.r>. 

.  li  .SlaHon.  r..;». 

BDEnamnc 


u 

JDI 


r 


<*<i 


'If 


■^ 


^asEs: 


lamgcj. 


flDDD 


^^^WMm^^^sm 


Montreal: 


H 


.City  Hall  and  Bon  se- 

cours  Market.  F.5. 

Poid  Office  .  E4. 

Court  House.        .     .     .  F.4. 
.  Paftinea.li  Market.        VLA. 

St.  Ann's  „  D.  5. 

St.  Patrick's  Hall.     .        D.4. 
.  Military  School .     .     .  P.  4, 

Crystal  Paiaiv.  .  C.3. 


7\..  Arch  bishop's  Fala<'*'.       f  4. 
2%. Black  iVunnrry.  E.J. 

ZS.iifray         „  X.'.i. 

Zi.Scntinary  tjfSf.  Sulpice.  E.  5. 
25.  „  Prietts.       A.  ~. 

26.St.Mary!i  ColUufc. 
27.  Mc.  a  ill 
2S.Molaan's         „ 
'29.  (icn^^rul-  ITotipHal . 
'Mi.HoM  fiieu. 
'i\.jSJ,\afi.7ttf  Rink: 
i'Z.Victoria  Square. 
?8t.Plaxr0  D'ArnK's. 
?A.Viffer  Square.    . 
35.  Clunnji  de  Mam. 

Hotels. 

'A^.Si .  Lfcwren ce  f/alf . 
il. St.  James. 
T^.Oaawa^. 
.W.  Albion. 
\fy.R.R. Stat  ion. 


C.  'I. 
II.4. 

E.l. 
B.:J. 
1).4. 
E..5. 
F.4. 
F.4. 


...v.f-i 


3( 


th 
do 
th 


s 


ar 
Li 

N. 
tn 
th 
pa 


Sa 
M 


oil 


M 
M 

63 
M 
re 


lai 
ns 

?? 
h< 

o< 

gi 

ao 
th 

Ci 
ui 

so 
w 
se 
ft', 
sli 
fi 


-MONTIIKAL. 


noiUeSl     ;JG9 


tlie  western  subiirli-  •  «'UJ 

""■"•     *■'"•  '''•'•scot    s     /      '   • '■""'  "'"-^  'l"l'".'>t.'.|       ;  ' ''"  '•"t'"-l^v,|   Monf,;^ 

.     Montreal   Cl'^-innn   .-  i    i  • 

h-  ^-.  H.  ^ 'ml,  tn:;--;^ --'-;..  -r'::.,;;^  :;t:- 

f""  ■'■'"'"  '»  )i  M.  '.vi,!..  o,,„„.i,'  ;■'""'""■  fc'^"'l^'"  of  (.a,„ulu.     Tl,.  St 

'■'-"."•S.    T,„.  .„„„„,„,„  ,,„"     •    -^  "l;   ^"  Live,.,,,,,,,,  ,,„,,,,  „„,  .^  ' 
J»"''lHig.s  IS  vcfv  Iar<n-      •'«  <,f  ti  '  ""  ^^'^'  """il'er  of  fiiu.  „„i  ,• 

'  "i.  ilall  f,„„t  on  this  .„,„„„      Tl,;',  ;;      .  "^^    I''"l''i"i,',  md  St 

.^  ft^-ule  and  ,,a,s  a  cleaned  windt      o      't,:,f /•\^^^^'^  ^^-  ^-'^  and 
r,  The  interior  i.  not  .strildn^^  Hnd  t  1         "^  ^'^^'"^^  ^^^^'"^^  ft.  in 

Mowers  on  the  front,  each  o|o  f     )   ^  ^'''^'""'•^  "'"^  P'^"'"-     TJ.ere  al 

^  JJ'^.  and  in  the  other  hun.'.s    -  G  o f  ^       ,    "'  ^o^v.rha,  a  dume 

^  '2 weighing  nearly  15  ton  .     nTtolT    "'"  ''^  ^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

^«   I  e  doo,keeper).  and  aifords  fron  its     .      '^^'^f^^^  ^^'^^  (-"all 

""'^  ^ts  environs  (especiallv  of  tl^r  ^  n     ^'f '^^  *  ^•'■-^' -^'  tl- 

1''*  '  ''''''  t^'^'  I>ndge,  and  islands) 


if 


g; 

'i,- 


i 


41 


I* 

I'  •' 


370    R(mtc54. 


MONTREAL. 


■I  ' 


I"*   '■ 


it 


» 


I    ! 


Alongside  llu;  cljurc])  is  tlie  aiiciciit  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpicc,  on  tlic  siti- 
of  Iho  Seniiiiury  of  1057,  us  tlu;  churcli  is  near  the  .site  of  the  Notre 
JJiiuie  of  1071.  The  i)r('seiit  church  was  Iniilt  1824-9,  and  was  conse- 
crate<l  l^y  the  Bishop  of  Telmesse  in  ixirtihus.  Fronting  on  tlic  Place 
(rArnicH  is  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  and  tlio  hall  of  the  (Jrand  Lodge 
of  Ma.sons  of  Canada.  A  short  distance  to  the  R,  on  Notre  Dame 
St..  an  archway  on  the  r.  adnnts  one  to  the  extensive  and  sccludcfl  Con- 
vent of  tlie  r.lack  Nuns,  Farthe'  on,  the  Court  House  is  seen  on  tlie  1., — 
a  stately  stone  buiMing  in  the  Ionic  architecture  (oOCxTia  ft.),  hack  of 
which  is  the  Champ  dc  Mars,  or  Parade  Cround,  an  open  sjiace  covering 
r>(i,<)(>0  scjuan;  yards,  and  fronted  by  the  great  building  of  tlie  Dominion 
Military  Scliool.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House,  the  .Tac<iues  Cartier 
S(iuare  opens  ofl*  Notre  Dame  St.,  and  is  encund)ercd  with  a  dila])idated 
monument  to  Nelson.  The  Jacques  Cartier  Normal  School  (in  the  ancient 
French  Government  building)  and  the  Institut  Canadien  (with  a  fine 
lilirary)  front  on  the  Government  Garden,  at  the  head  of  this  scpiare.  By 
the  next  side-street  (St.  Claxide)  to  the  r.,  the  Bonsecours  Market  may 
be  visited.  This  market  is  imrivalled  in  America,  and  is  built  of  stone, 
at  a  cost  of  $30f),0()0.  It  is  3  .stories  high,  has  a  dome,  and  i)resents  an 
imposing  front  to  the  river.  The  curious  French  costumes  and  language 
of  the  country  people  who  congregate  here  on  market-days,  as  well  as  .some 
peculiarities  of  the  wares  offered  for  sale,  render  a  visit  very  interesting. 
Alongside  of  the  market  is  the  Bonsecours  Churi-h  (accommodating  2,00ii) 
which  was  built  in  1058.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the  extensive 
Quebec  Gate  Barrack,  on  Dalhousie  S<iuare,  while  the  Victoria  Pier  makes 
out  into  the  stream  towards  St.  IlcJeiVs  Isle  (a  fortified  depot  of  amnm- 
nition  amlwawmte^'id).  To  the  N.,  on  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Viger 
Garden,  with  a  small  conservatory  and  several  fountains,  fronting  on 
which  is  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  built  of  Montreal  stone  in  Early 
English  Gothic  architecture,  and  accommodating  4,000  persons.  N.  of 
Trinity,  and  also  on  St.  Denis  St.,  is  St.  James  Church  (Catholic),  hi  the 
pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich  stained  glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dal 
honsie  Sipiare,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  is  Molson's  College  (abandoned)  and  St. 
Thomas  Church  (Episcop.il),  with  the  great  buildings  of  Molson's  brewer)' 
and  the  Pa|)ineau  Market  and  Sipuire. 

McGill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria  Square 
to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  in  done  here  and  in  the  inter 
secting  St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  buildings  are  rich  aiii] 
massive,  while  just  beyond  is  the  extensive  St.  Ann's  Market,  on  the  sit;j 
of  the  old  Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  Elgin  signed  the  vj. 
l)opular  Rebellion  Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a  mob,  who  al« 
drove  the  Assend)ly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  that  buildint 
Commissioners'  St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  ^Market  and  the  elegant  C//s/i-| 


r 

1  Ch 

MONTREAL. 


novleftl     371 


the  Bllf 
^  Notre 
,s  conse- 

lid  I''^<^^« 
re  l>i"<^*' 
idcA  Cou- 

),  back  of 
e  covering 

,(.s   Cartier 

aUavi«^ivte(l 
the  ancient 

with  a  fnie 

sciware.    By 

ftarket  nmy 

,Ut  of  stoni', 

[  presents  an 

and  languiige 

sweU  as  sonic 

.y  interesting. 

odating  %W 
the   extensive 
via  Pier  makes 
not  of  amniu- 
ttractive  Viget 
fronting  ou 
stone  in  Ka''^>" 
,ersons.     N.  of 

ivtlioiic),  i"  ^I'f 

.  V    of  1^11^ 
xuce  li"'  oi  ^ 

doned)  and  St.  | 

Olson's  bre^^•';v^•■ 

J  Victoria  Square  I 

|nd  in  the  iuttt  f 

.  are  rich  ;v 


rket,  on 


the  ^1 


b  sig 


ued  tht 


a  n 


loh. 


ut  that 


who  'i^' 
builtlii'^ 


ch-: 


•ant  Cu 


f.m 


Ifnuse  to  tlie  broad  i>roiiienades  on  the  river-walls.  Ottawa  St.  leads  to 
till'  W.  to  the  j^eat  masonry  of  tlx;  Lachine  Cuiial  Basins  ami  the  vieinity 
of  tlie  Victoria  Hriilge. 

Kadi'gonde  St.  and  Heaver  Hall  Hill  lead  N.  from  Vic-foria  S<|nare, 
p.issin-^' Zion  Cliurcli,  wlu're  the  (}ava//i  riots  took  ))lae('  in  iSi'tl],  Tlio 
;iiiiied  congregation  repnlscd  the  assailants  twiee,  and  then  the  troop.s 
restored  peace,  40  men  being  killed  or  seriously  wounded.  Just  above  is 
the  Haptist  Chureli,  overlooked  by  the  tall  f'hureh  of  the  ^fessiah  (Tni- 
t.iiian),  with  St.  Andrew's  Presliyterian  Chiinh  on  the  r.  A  few  ste[>s  to 
tlie  r.,  Lagauchetiere  St.  leads  to  Si.  I'tUrick's  Church,  a  stately  Clothio 
l.iiilding,  L'lO  ft.  long  by  iM)  ft.  wide,  aeeommodating  i>,0()0  pei-sons,  and 
ailonied  with  a  spire  22j  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  loH  \ ,  and  tlie  narrow 
lancet  windows  are  filled  with  stained  glass.  A  short  distanei-  farther, 
oil  nieiiry  St.,  are  the  massive  stone  buildings  (»f  St.  Mary's  ('ollego 
(.lesuit),  near  the  front  of  the  Charch  of  the  Gestl.  The  nave  of  this 
.liun.'li  (7o  ft.  high)  is  bounded  by  rich  eomitosile  coliinins,  and  the  tran- 
SLi>ts  are  1 14  ft.  long,  while  the  walls  are  eovered  with  tine  frescos. 

Over  the  Ili^h  Alt<ir  is  the  Crueilixion,  and  the  Adonttion  (if  the  Spotless 
T..ii;il>,  aliDVe  wliirli  is  tlie  Niilivily.  .\.,i,Minst  the  eoliniiiis  ;i(  llir  iTossin;;  of  tlie 
iiivc  ami  transoj)ts  are  statues  nf  St.  Murk  with  a  lion,  St.  Matthew  with  an  ox, 
St.  Lake  with  a  ehi'd,  and  St.  .John  with  an  ea;,'le.  On  the  cfiliii;_'  of  the  navo 
/HI'  frescos  of  St.  Thomas  Uei-mtant,  the  lUecdin^'  Laiiil',  and  the  Vir^'in  and 
Child  ami  I  MiKelie  choirs.  Medallions  alon;,'  the  nave  contain  |iortraitsof  Ssaint.s 
of  the  Old'".'  of  .Jesus.  (>v<'r  tlu^  .\ltar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  tiansr|it,  is  a  IVcm-o 
(if  the  Trinity,  wvwv  which  is  a  jiaintin.L,'  of  St.  Aloysins  (ionza^a  receiving'  his  tirst 
cniini. union  from  St.  Charles  JJorromeo,  Cardinal  .Vnhhisho])  of  Milan.  To  tiie  r. 
is  a  fre.sco  of  St.  It,'natius  F.oyola  in  tht;  grotto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  I.  is  Christ's 
.Xppearunee  to  him  near  Uonie,  whih;  al)ov(!  is  Christ  lUcssiu;^'  Lilt  i'  Children. 
Over  St.  Jo.seph's  Altar,  in  the  r.  transejtt,  is  a  iiaintim;  of  the  Ktcrnal  Father,  on 
the  r.  of  which  is  another  jiictun!,  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka  Heceiviu!^  Communion 
I'lnm  Angels.  On  the  I.  is  a  fresco  of  the  Martyrdom  of  the  .Jesuits  at  Xa.^'asiiki 
(.Lilian) ;  on  the  r.  i.s  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Ainlrew  JJohola.  in  Poland  :  andalMJVo 
is  the  liaising  of  Lazarus.     On  the  ceiling  is  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  W.  on  St.  Catharine  St.,  one  soon  reaches  Christ 

Church  Cathedral,  the    best  representative   of    English   G(jthic   arehi- 

tucture  in  America.     It  is  built  of  Caen  and  Montreal  stone,  is  crueiform, 

anil  a  stone  spire  224  ft.  high  springs  from  the  centre  of  the  cross.    The 

choir  has  a  fine  window  and  some  carved  stalls,  and  is  laid  v.dtli  encaustic 

tiles,  while  the  pointed  roof  of  the  nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by 

columns  whose  capitals  are  carved  to  represent  Canadian  plants.    Near  the 

Cathedral  is  a  quaint  octagonal  chai)terdiouse,  used  also  for  the  diocesan 

lihrary,  and  the  house  of  +he  Lord  Bishop  (and  Metroi)olitan  of  Canada) 

i>  in  the  same  vicinity.     A  short  distance  N.  is  McGill  College,  or  IJui- 

vorsity,  which  was  endowed  in  1814  and  oi)ene(l  in  1828.     It  is  below  the 

I n'ser\'oir  on  Mount  Royal,  from  which  a  charming  view  of  the  city  and 

[river  may  be  gained.     Some  distance  W,  of  the  college,  and  fronthig  on 

[the  same  street  (SherT)rooke).  is  the  vast  and  inq)osing  Sfniinunf  nf  St. 

Mpice,  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catliolic  priests.     On  St.  C'atharine, 


"iiiii-'ft-; 


372   Wwienf^. 


TIIH   LACllINK   UAI'IDH. 


t 

v\ 

i 

■        t 

^  i 

;  i 
f  t 
t         i 


h'> 


ii 


I! 

I*'  ' 


t   i 

M 


!    i 


I    t 


near  St.  George  St.,  is  the  Asyluin  for  tli«  lUiiid,  witli  Ji  cliai»el  ricliiy  ainl 
ele;,Miitly  (leeornted  niul  frescoed,  ami  Iniilt  in  ;i  li;^'lil  ami  delicate  forui  of 
li-')iiia;ie,s(iii(!  arrliitectiire.  W,  of  tlie  ('atliedral  is  tli<!  Erskiiie  C'lmrrli 
(i'nsl)yferiaii),  and  also  tlie  Clnircli  of  St.  .lames  the  A|io.s|]»',  a  prraeeful 
Gothic  l)uii(lin;4  with  an  adniiralde  tower  an<l  spire.  Near  the  cemetery 
on  Dorchester  St.  iirv.  the  f(»llu\viii<^'  churches,  -  the  Wesleyan  Methodi.st, 
a  graceful  building  in  the  English  Gothic  styh;  ;  the  .American  I'reshy- 
terian,  an  e.\act  copy  of  the  Park  Chureh  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  ;  and  the 
Chundi  (if  St.  Gcoige  (Kjiiscopal),  an  elegant  edilice  in  decorated  (tothic 
arclute(!ture,  with  deep  transf]>ts.  costly  staineil  windows,  a  timber  roof, 
and  line  sc^hool -huildiiigs  jittaclied.  On  the  K.  side  of  this  s(piare  i.s  the 
liisliop'.H  /'((face,  near  which  are  the  slowly  rising  walls  of  the  iniincuse 
new  Catholic  f'athcilral,  whii'h  is  to  ho  Inult  on  the  model  of  St.  Peter's 
at  Pv.onjc,  though  smaller.  Farther  to  tlie  W.  on  Dorchester  St.,  on  the 
r.,  is  seen  the  -ast,  cruciform  building  of  the  (''ri'//  Xinmrri/  (founded 
1(>!)2),  with  a  Foundling  Hospital  ami  a  liefuge  for  the  infirm.  Mont  Ste. 
Maiie  is  the  large  building  opposite  (across  Dorchester  St.),  which  was 
erected  for  a  Baptist  College,  but  has  become  a  ladies'  boarding-school 
under  the  Congregational  Nims  (of  the  lilack  Nunnery,  who  havt ,  in  the 
city,  r>7  schools  and  12, 000  pupils.  The  order  was  founded  by  Marguerite 
Bourgeoys  in  1059).  F.uther  K.  on  r)f)rchcster  St.  are  the  fine  buildings 
of  St.  Paul's  and  the  Knox  Prcsliy terian  Churches.  There  are  many 
other  fine  churches  and  i)ublic  buildings  in  the  city,  and  the  streets  toward 
Mount  Royal  are  lined  with  attractive  villas. 

There  are  ]deasant  excursions  from  Montreal  to  Monklauds  and  the 
Isle  .Jesus;  to  Ilochelaga,  the  vast  Convent  of  the  Holy  N.ime  of  Mary, 
and  Longue  Pointe;  to  the  Tanneries,  Cote  St.  Paul,  and  Lachine,  by 
carriage;  but  the  two  favorite  trips  are  to  the  mountain  and  to  the  rapids, 
"  Around  the  Mountain,"  it  is  0  M.,  by  going  out  St.  Lawrence  Maui  St., 
by  the.  immense  Hotel  Dieu,  and  u])  the  long  slopes  to  the  pretty  village 
of  Cote  des  Neiges.  Ascending  the  mountain  thence,  a  glorious  view  is 
soon  revealed,  embracing  tlie  city,  a  great  expanse  of  the  river,  with  the 
britlge,  St.  Helen's  Isle,  and  Longueuil,  and  the  blue  peaks  of  Vermont 
far  away  in  the  S.  On  the  slojie  of  Mount  Royal  is  the  Cemetery,  which 
is  entered  by  stately  portals,  and  shows  some  very  creditable  monuments, 
—  esjjccially  those  of  the  Molson  fanaly. 

The  L,acliliio  Rapidtt  are  visiteil  by  taking  tlm  7  A.  M.  train  (at  the  Bonaveii- 

tare  ytali(in,)t;)  l.:i(  liim',  wlicri'  a  steamer  i.s  in  waitin^r,  by  whieli   the   tourist  | 
returns  tlimuLrh  tlie  rai)i<ls  to  Montroal    arriving  about  i)  a.  m.).     After  tiil<in,i,'  a 
pilot  from  tlie  Indian  villa;je  of  ('aiinlmawa;-'a,  the  steamer  ])assesont. 

"  Suddenly  a  scene  of  wild  .urandeur  Imrst.s  ujuin  the  eye  ;  waves  are  laslieJ  ^ 
into  sjiray  and  into  breakers  of  a  thousand  forms  by  the  submerged  rocks  whidi 
tliey  are  dashed  a.irainst  in  the  headl'Mig  imiietuosity  of  tlie  river.     Whirliiodls.  ,i 
Rtorm-lashed  sea,  the  ehasm  below  Nia.i^ara,  all  minyle  their  sublimity  in  a  ^iuu! 
vni)id.     Now  )iassin]^  with  liuditnin,!^  speed  within  a  few  yards  of  rocks,   \slinli 
did  your  vessel  but  touch  them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  "utter  wreck  l)efore  ti 


MONTREAL  TO  QUKBEC. 


lioiUe  oo.     373 


lurm  «jf 

gracefvil 
■i\iuet*'ry 
fUiodisl, 

uiul  tli« 
ill  Gothic 
nU'X  voof, 
ue  is  the 

imniense 
St.  Veter's 
St.,  on  the 
^  (fomuU'tl 

Muut  Ste. 

which  wiis 
(Un^'i-schuol 

uivi ,  in  the 
Marguerite 

le  huihliiiK^ 
J  are  many 
reets  toward 


ids  and  tho 
luo  of  Ma^^^ 

Liiohine,  hy 
lo  tho  rapids. 
Ice  Mahi  St., 
l.vctty  viUu;^*' 

prions  view  is 

,.ev,  with  t\>e 
of  Veiinont 

lietery,  >v]iich 
luonunients, 


t\ie  Bonaveii- 
r-h  the  ti)i"i*t 
After  tiikini;  a 

(vJs  are  lafH'J 

Whirll"^'*''^',''! 
liitv  in  a  snii;  •? ' 

v.M-k8.  >v»nij>. 
l-eck  before  tM| 


I 


cr.i.sli  rouM  Hninid  tijxin  tlie  ".-.;  ;  «li<l  Hheevcii  illvcrne  in  tlip  loiwt  from  her  coiirsp, 
_  if  licr  licail  wt'ir  imt  kf^>t  sfmij^lit  with  tlu-  ctdirHf  of  thf  rapiil,  she  wniiJd  1if> 
instantly  .sultiiierK<'ii  and  rollcil  omt  iiiid  over.  H"tnri'  u.s  is  an  alisnlntc  jirt'ci- 
|iiii' (if  wati'is  ;  on  fvery  side  iif  it  bicakfis,  iikf  a  ;!♦«  HValanclic.'.,  aif  tlimwii 
)ii).'li  into  the  air.  Krc  we  can  take  a  K'inici'  at  tlit>  sv  nc,  tin-  l-oat  dcsfonils  tlio 
wall  of  waves  and  foam  like  a  l»ird,  and  in  a  seiond  a'^erwaixls  you  arc  tloatin^;  on 
the  calin,  unrnllled  Imwomi  of  'lielow  the  rapids.' " 

Tin-  steamer,  just  before  reachin;,'  the  city,  pas.ses  under  the  *  Vlrtorin 
BrldKC  the  lon^'est  and  costliest  hri(lj,'ti  in  tho  world.  It  consists  oi'  'J.i  spans  of 
•Ji-' It.  each  (tlu)  centre  oiH!  lieinK'-'!;K»  It.  hmx)  resting'  on'-'l  |.iers  built  of  heavy 
lihie  limestone  mas(Hiry,  eenientiil  jind  irou-rivetrd.  wjtii  slLiip  we(|;^'c  laces  to 
the  down  c\irreiit  The  tubes  cont.iininj,'  the  track  are  r.i  ft.  hl-li  by  111  ft.  wide, 
and  the  bridge  is  ,ipi>roached  by  abutinent-i  2,(ioo  ft.  Ion;,'  and  '.'i  ft.  wid<',  which, 
with  tlic  (i.^S^  ft.  of  iron  tiibiii;;,  makes  a  total  len^'th  of  it.l'.u  ft.  from  ^rrad-  to 
^Tade,  and  over  H  M.  froiu  short;  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  bc-'Un  in  IS.'il,  anil 
liiiisheil  in  ls;V.) ;  it  used  up  2.J0,0()0  tons  of  Htoin-  and  fs.noo  tons  of  inui,  and  vonl 
gti.ioo.diM).  The  viow  of  Montreal  from  the  bridge  is  cme  of  the  inoat  beautiful 
iiiiaj^inablc. 

55.  Montreal  to  Quebec— The  St  Lawrence  River. 

The  larj,'(f  an«l  elegant  royal  mail  steamers  of  the  Hichclicu  Coini'any  leave  the 
Itirlidieu  I'icr  (fool  of  ,Iac(iucs  < 'artier  S(|uarc)  at  7  i".  -M.  daily,  and  arm  c  , it  (Que- 
bec early  the  next  mornin;,'.  I birin^' the  summer  of  1872  a  steamer  of  the  siiue 
line  ran  twice  or  thrice  weekly  between  the  two  <  ities,  lea\  in^'  at  early  mtirninjf. 
It  w.'is  thought  that  this  day-line  would  be  <'oulinued,  and  if  it  is,  it  should  b»' 
jirel'erreil  to  the  evening  boats,  as  enabling  the  tourist  to  sec  the  river  and  its  vil- 
f.iges.  FnniS  to  Quebec,  (irsi  class  (with  meals  and  state-room),  ^;{.o<)  ;  second 
class,  .■?  1.00.  The  (irand  Trunk  Railway  runs  trains  to  (jiu'.btiu  in  8  -  9  lir.s.,  by 
w;iy  ofSt.  Ilyacinthe,  Richmond,  and  Arthabaska.- 

As  the  steamer  passes  out  into  the  strciiii,  tlie  fort  Hied  ishmd  of  St, 
Helen  is  seen  in  front,  and  fine  views  of  the  Victoria  IJridgo,  Mount  Royal, 
and  the  city  are  gained.  Just  helow  St.  Ilcden'.s  I.sh',  on  the  r.  bank,  i.s 
l/mipiruil,  where  thore  are  many  villas  pertaining  to  wealthy  city  people. 
A  .sjiort  di.stance  below,  on  the  1.  l)aidv,  is  Louguc  Pointc.  with  the  Con- 
vent dv>i  So'urs  de  la  I'lovidence,  and  at  D  .M.  from  Mou'in-al  I'niiitr  di/.c 
Trmibles  is  passed,  witli  its  ancient  vilhige,  whicli  dates  from  1()74.  The 
steamer  tlien  enters  the  channels  between  the  low,  marshy  islands  of  Bou- 
eherville,  famous  for  dm-k-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here 
at  the  elo.se  of  winter.  Passing  VareiDirs  on  the  r.,  with  the  bold  Beln'il 
Mt.  in  the  S.,  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  des  Prairies  is  seen  on  the  1.,  with 
the  village  of  TJAssomption  beyond,  There  are  valuable  ndneral  .springs 
near  Varennes,  from  which  a  steamer  runs  to  Montreal  four  times  a  week. 
The  river  now  passes  between  the  ])arishes  of  Cap  Michael,  ^'en•heres, 
Coutrecour,  and  St.  Ours,  on  the  r.  bank,  ana  St.  Sulpiee,  La  Valtrie,  La 
Noraye,  and  Dautraye  on  the  1.  baidv.  The  s]iires  of  Berthirr  are  s/eu 
on  the  1.,  as  another  clu.ster  of  islands  is  threaded,  anil  the  town  of  Sorel 
is  reached.  This  place  occupies  an  important  i)ositiou  at  the  coiithi'.iuv,! 
;of  the  Richelieu  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  and  was  fortified  in  1(565  by 
|(Iov.  De  Tf.'icey.  For  many  years  it  was  \\u\  summer  residence  of  tlr3 
Governors,  and  on  being  vioited  by  Prince  William  Henry  of  England  (af- 


M 


371    RnutoBr).      TIIK  HT.   LAWIlKNv't.:   IirVKIl. 


if 


;  ill 


;  i 


'1 

\ 


ItTWiinls  Williiiiu  IV.)  an  al»()rti\(!  utl<'Ji:|»t  was  iiia<lc  to  cli.iiij?t'  its  nanif 
t.  William  Hcmy.  Tins  i>lace  has  about  y,(MM)  iiilialiitaiits,  and  is  built 
around  a  lar^u  K(iuarc,  near  wliicli  aro  line  llontan  and  Anv;lican  cliutcln-s. 
The  hunting  and  llshing  in  this  viciidty  uie  of  jirovincial  lanu',  Tin 
stcanirr  now  iiassi-s  anotln-r  arclMpidago,  and  at  Ti  M,  btdow  Hortd  <  ntcis 
Liilcr  SL  I'llrr,  a  broadening  of  tin;  river  2.')  M.  long  and  9  M.  wide.  The 
lake  is  shallow,  but  has  a  doe])  and  narrow  ehannel  (partly  artilicial), 
which  is  marked  out  Ity  Imoys  and  i)olus,  and  is  used  by  large  vessels. 
Inimensi!  hnnber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  (U)wnward  like  floating 
islands,  and  bearing  sln-amers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  the  lumber- 
men. In  stormy  weather  on  the  lake  these,  rafts  .sonu'tinu's  come  to 
l)ieces.  Sf>on  after  entering  this  broa<l  expanse,  the  moutli  of  the  St. 
Francis  lliver  is  .seen  on  the  r.,  with  the  village  of  St.  Fnincis.  Below 
the  shoroH  of  Lu.s.saudiere  and  St.  Antoinc,  the  mouth  of  the  Nicolt  t 
River  app(^ars  on  the  r.,  and  farther  down  (on  the  1.)  i.s  the  village  ol 
Fond  du  Lac.  Threo  Rivers  is  now  ai»proa(hed,  and  the  steann-r  stoj's 
midway  lictween  Montreal  and  (Quebec.  This  city  was  founthvl  (as  Trois 
Kivieres)  in  UilS,  and  lias  at  present  (),()()()  inlialiilants,  with  a  large  tra'li' 
in  lun  ber,  which  is  brought  down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Catholir 
Cutliedral,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  and  other  line  builiUngs  adorn  the  city. 

The  St.  M'ltirice  IUvcr  waters  a  district  of  iiiiuifiise  (ami  unliUDWii)  cxtciif, 
atiniiiniin^  ill  lakes  ami  in  forests.     I'ortiims  (tf  llils  j^'reat  iinrtlieni  wilderness 
liave  Ix-eii  visitcfl  l>y  tlie  liiiiilMiiueii,  who  e(iii(liiet  rafts  to  Tiirei;   Uivers,  wImit 
tlie  huiiliiT  is  s;iwe(i.     Almiit  iiH  M.  aliove  tiie  city  are  the  imbh!  Falln  u/thr  Shdir- 
(tiirijaif,  wihrc  tlie  ^'reat  river  iiluii;,'i's  over  a  |ieriieii(liciiiar  descent  of  l.Mi  It.,  1" 
tween  tlie  Int'ty  roel-js  ciili'd  //'»  lint  ml  Mi' re  and  /><•  liitnhoninii'.     A  few  niih^salrnvf 
are  tli(>  K;dls  of  tiie  (iraiid-Mere.     These  falls  are  visited  by  cngafiiiiK  canoes  ainij 
j;iiides  at  Tiiree   Uivers,  wiiile  hiiiitini^'-parties  conducted  hy  Canadian   ruiitiijriii- 
or  AI,','on(|iiin  Indians  sonietinics  pass  tlience  into  tiie  remote  northern  forests  iiij 
jiursnit  of  the  lar.i,'er  varieties  ol'  Kanie.     Three  Rivers  is  widely  known  for  \U\ 
foundries,  where  hoy-iron  ore  >     converted  into  car-wheels  and  stoves. 

Opposite  Three  Rivers  is  Doixcet's  Landing,  at  Becancoiir,  the  termimi'i 
of  a  branch  of  tlie  (Irand  Trunk  Railway  (see  Route  40),  and  to  tlie  N.  E., 
across  the  St.  Maurice,  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelaiiici 
The  steamer  passes  Gcntilly  (on  the  r.)  and  .stops  at  Batiscan,  17  M.  bej 
low  Throe  Rivers,  then  jiasses  Ste.  Marie  and  Ste.  Anne,  on  the  1.,  an! 
St.  Pierre,  on  tlio  r.  Lotbinicre,  on  the  r.,  is  seen,  and  then  the  villa;] 
of  St.  Croix,  standing  on  Pointe  Platon.  Point  aux  Trcndiles  marks  t;:: 
transition  from  the  low  sliorcs  toward  Lake  St.  Peter  to  the  lofty  sumiiii:! 
of  the  Laurcntian  Mts.  St.  Augustin  (1.)  and  St.  Antoine  (r. )  are  iK.\j 
jiassed,  and  then  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudicre,  Cap  Rouge,  ar.<'  the  vill;i-| 
of  St.  Jean  C-hrysostome.  The  hciglits  of  Point  Lrci  now  -.iiipear  on  ti| 
v.,  and  on  tlie  1.  are  the  -walls  and  s))ires  of  Quebec.  Travellers  by  i! 
night-boat  should  make  arrangements  to  be  .awakened  an  hour  bel'' 
reaching  the  end  of  the  route,  as  the  view  of  Quebec  from  the  rivi  i 
early  morning  is  a  thing  which  can  never  be  forgotten. 


^n\ 


is  bM»\> 

,.,.\    rlltVVS 

Hc  Vfssr\s. 

lea  come  t.. 
I  of  i^^^'  ^*' 

acaui»*.v  stnVH 

l\y  kn.)WU  U»i  >^^ 

[^tovea. 

aid  to  \h^-  N-  ^l 
.  Va  Mat;«^^^^^^"i 

I  on  the  1.,  H 

Jic  lofty  svuuiniti 

'  e,  an.l  tlie  viUaJ 
bsv  ui>l>e"vv  on  ti 
[TraveUevs  by  v| 
U  an  hour  hd 
from  tlie  rivcv 


"jj- 


Qri:»i:c. 

«f  Hf.slrtfun  I'hurrft        J',..». 
4  h'fJ/f/fnon  I'./t, 

6  >V.  .//.////{r/r  .  ".         lU. 

7  iSV.  Sifinw/f!..'.'.....:...i\.2. 

HSf.IfvrJi _"...       C.*^ 

0  i\f^/r  /Jnmrf/f.s- 
yrr/t'f/rs  IV  r. 

Ml  fhrjihisliii/is  Pnloif      \\!S. 
11  Scrnimiri  \\*\. 

1*2  Ltntillfnlntvi/if         ICtV 

XMividih'cfifmii    v:x 
15  r;,m/Sfsfa'.f:. i).:i. 

Wi  ( 'tm(mf(/fmitil  :        T/i. 

17  (nnrj-ul Ihisfuhd       W'i,, 

18  Mm  lit' ....".  (-.1. 

i»j/^/n).^vv     i;.;j. 

20  liniiwHrifl lleiiso  Y.*\. 

21  Cfurf  Jli'irnC'..    ..  li.'K 

22  (nmn  LunJstDrp.  Y\,\.\ 
Z\  Iflf/lt Srhrot   ..  V.A.\ 
2*1  (ifiirrncr^  (ianjcn  K.4. 
25  Cn.slom  IIpu^t      -  id.  I 
*}l^  Clianiphfht  Morlctf  V»\,\ 

27  .A/*/  R5. 

28  Wolff s  Mriuimenl    ll.!?. 
7!%i  .iiiumvji  ff^i/suhUd.    .F.»». 

30  .s>.  .//7,,M- ^«^. .     n.:i 

*mW.'>cc.u.  ^ KIM. 

9«i  //(//>« — '/ I  «ii. 

31"  FaJAUie..,'.' .   E.Ii. 

35  Si.  It'uis  Hold    .   VaA  .  I 

30  Slntfjnrflnji    ■• .  -  l*).i>. ! 

37  ■/r»uJ^yI'jil/ilJnffs.       Fi.'.V 

38 /W /^/y^e^. .  ■ E.3. 


QtTl^KEC^ 

1  CaiJwJic  C^fthe/IraJ'       Ti,.». 

2  &uflu'/m     -'!    Kl. 

3  Ui^flc4/aff  Ckun'Jh-.    K*** 

4  PrfshjIeHwi  "  f'i.4, 

5  xSV.  John  ( Colhl ': ( '.',i . 

i^StJIaUhcH." \SX 

7  Sf.istmveuj'.::. .•-.-A.2. 

HHi.lioeh :' C.2. 

9  N(j/tr  JJamf  fies 

McftffjTs IVi. 

M)  (lirlih'jiliflp's Pnhft'c     K.^i. 

11  SerfiinMrr 1'^"^. 

12  Lmnnhiimviiftf        IC 3, 

ItJ  IladDlen  Ccmeril     .  li'^ . 
M  }!ri<tflirie :,  .,        K/L 

15  (hm/Si^fcrsl D.'l. 

IG  Ct>mfir(f(ff»'md.:'-      .  I  .2. 

17  (rmeittJ HonpiltiZ       J>.2. 

18  -  Mm'tm'  _,,,". 1>.  1  • 

19  .I^/w  Z^^/A^/' 1'.3. 

*i^  Jhj4i4iMfjd  Hmso     F.3. 

21  &urflfmsc  MA, 

22  (immLunJitDfp.      K.4'. 

mRffhSdfiej:. E.4. 

24  (iprmwi^  OarJciv,..  J5.4. 

25  Custom  Hpu^s'c F.Jl. 

26  Champhfin MnJ^'f     K 4- 

22  Jfti/I/ I5,»>. 

28  Wolfe  A  Mcfuimenl  -  -  B..T. 
7!^  Jmrmrm  ff^i/suliilj'^  ..\'^, 

32  Frc^cvU,.:. K.IM. 


V^Ihpf.^.-. 


S3  *SV.  LfiuisildeL 
36  SlnJurnruJ    " 


i:.3. 
E.:i. 

I 

E.4J 

I  :.3. 

E.3 


-  k 


I't ! 


II 


374 


B  i 


I!.  I 

i 


U  i 


II?     V 

I'    ' 


t     1 


t.TWur 

to  Wil 

arouii<J 

The  H 

steami 

Lfike  i 

lake  ii 

whicli 

Iinme! 

islamU 

men. 

piccea 

Franc 

the  si 

River 

Fond 

midw 

Kivie: 

in  lur 

Catht 

The 
abDiin 
luivc  1 
the  lu 

twoon 

Hit'  til 

guide 
or  Al; 

luuml 

Oi: 
of  a 

acros 
The 
low  ' 
St.  I 
ofBl 
tran; 
of  t 


ofS 
v.,  u 
nigV 
reao 
earl 


QUEBEC. 


Route  56.    375 


56.  Quebec. 

Arrival.     If  tho  trnvollor  lias  nmch  b.iLrira^'o,  it  is  best  to  tako  thf  hotel  oar- 


riaiif  \><  till'  L']ipor  Tiiwii.     Tiio  cnlichr  is  imt  ailaptcii  to  fiirryiii;,'  in^'.^apv 


Hotel 


II 


.1 


Hotels*  1  lie  .>r.  i^oiiis 
acciiimiiodatiiij^  4-')0fl  quests,  at  8.'{-4.0()  a  day.  Tlit^  Stadacoiia  House  (on  !'al- 
ace  ?St.)  i-i  less  jiretciitioiis  and  expensive.  Ilcndiey's  Hotel,  opposite  tlie  Anj^'li- 
caii  Catlieilral,  is  (piiet  and  moderate  (for  ^'eiitleiiuMi  travelliii.L;  ni  riitrron).  In  tlu! 
Lower  Town  is  Hlanchard's  Hotel,  and  several  others,  two  of  .vliieli  are  Krencli. 

CarrlageH  in  every  variety  may  lie  in-ocured  at  tiu^  staliles,  bnttiie  nsnal  niiMle 
(f  ridiii','  is  by  the  rnlrrlir.  a  sin'j;r(lar  and  usually  very  shahby-lookin;::  velii-  le, 
pcrelied  o<i  two  iii^di  wheels,  with  the  driver  sittinu  on  a  narrow  led;,'e  in  front. 
Tliese  vehicles  are  drawn  by  homely  but  hanly  little  horses,  and  are  usually  driven 
by  French  Canadians.  1  -  2  jiersons  may  on^ayi:  a  c"/('r/i(' to  j^o  to  the  Montmo- 
riMici  Falls,  Lorette,  or  Cap  Roii^'e,  for^Sli.OO.  y/orAC-afri  traverse  the  riverward 
streets  in  the  Lower  Town. 

Reaclliig-roomg.  The  Y.  M.  (!.  As.soeiation,  just  off  Fabriqiie  St.,  near  the 
.Itsnit  buiidiii;xs,  and  the  ele.^'aiit  library  of  the  C^ucIkm;  Historical  Society  (in 
.Miirrin  ('olii',:.re)  are  ojk'Ii  to  the  visits  of  stran^'crs. 

Laiif^uUKe.     More  tiian  half  of  the  citizens  of  Quebec,  and  nearly  all  of  the 

inliabitaiits  of  the  surroiindinj^  villa.^es,  speak  I'rench  as  their  mothcr-lnn.^uc. 

Scry  many  of  them  have  a  kuowled,L;e,  more,  or  less  pi-rfcct,  of  tin'  English  laii- 

;^iia;e,  while  many  of  tiie  Hritisli  citizens  speak  French  also.     The  laii;.,'ua;,'e  in  its 

written  forms  (as  seen  in  the  niinn'rous  French  books,  ma.i,'azines,  and  newspapers 

published  in  Qudiec)  is  correct  and  intcljiniiile,  but  the  si>eech  of  tlic;  lower  classes 

[  .uid  of  the  rustics  is  dilhcult  and  oftiMi  impossible  to  understand.      It  is  not 

I'arisian  or  even    Iloucnnaise  French,  but  a  stroii),'  jji-ovincial  dialect,   brou;.,'ht 

finiii  tilt!  rural  districts  of  Xi>niiandy  in  the   ITtli  century,  and  enriched  by  the 

1  addition  of  liter  local  idioms.     (The  siiarp,  dissyll  ibic,  cry  with  which  the,  calcrlie- 

Idiivers  ur;,'e  their  hor.ses  forward,  is  "  Marche-douc.") 

The  7'<).-;/-0//(o«  is  on  St.  Anne  St.  Tiie  most  attra<'tive  shops  arc  on  l-'abricpie 
land  St.  John  Sts.,  an<l  about  the  Freu<'h  Cat'.iedral. 

Rall^vavH.  The  Grand  Trunk  Iliilway  has  its  terminal  station  at  Point 
jLevi,  'M7  M.  from  Portland,  42"i  M.  from  Boston,  5S0  M.  lYom  New  Yiirk,  and 
jl.',()S4  .M.  from  XewOrleans.  There  is  also  a  railroad  of  m  ist  iirimilivc  constiuc- 
Ition,  with  its  terminus  in  the  Hinlieiie,  which  runs  slow  and  iufrciiueiit  tniins  u)> 
Itlie  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  u^v  20-2."j  M.  To  JJoston,  see  Routes  'Jt  and  20,  or 
IKiiiites  lb  and  ;!7. 

Steamers.     Ferry-boats  run  lo  Point  Levi  every  ir>  minutes  ;  also  thrice  daily 

o  the  Isle  of  Crleans  ;  ami  at  var,\in^'  intervals  to  the  French  river-towns.     Sctiii- 

Iweekly  steamers  rnir  to  the  Sa;,'U('nay  Iliver  ;  fare  to  Cac(<una  and  return,  .f.'!  00  ; 

to  Tadon.sae,  !?  4.00  ;  to  Ha  II.i    Bay  and  return,  .*  7.00.     Lar^e  steami'rs   leave, 

l^vi'eklv  for  the  (Julf  puts;  fares  to   Father  Point  (with   meals  and  state-rooml, 

"  t.oo  (17.">    M.)  -r  2d  class,  .':!2.0);    to    Gaspe    (44:?    M.).    1st  (lass,  •■?  10.00;    2<1 

lass,  ^4.00;    by  Perce  and   Pasju'liiac  to  Dalhousie,  Chatham,   and  Newcastle, 

14.00  ;  to  Shed'ia.     -  l.'i.oo  ;  and  to  Pictou,  1,021   M.   from   Quebec,  sKJ.oO.     Th(( 

l.ii^'e  river-steamer      f  the  lliidiclieu  line  leave  for  Montreil  ilaily.    The  .Ml'in  line 

t)f  transatlantic  ste.»   lei-s  tlespatehes  oik;  ship  weeklv  during  the  summer  and 

tarly  fall. 


Quebec,    "tlic   Gibraltar  of    America,"   and   tlie   secon<l   city   iti   tlie 

oiuiuion  of  Canada,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Charles  and 
5t.  Lawrence  Rivers,  400  M.  from  tlie  (Julf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  ISO  M. 
iDia  Montreal.  Tt  has  over  (>0, 000  inliabitaiits,  and  its  eliicf  l>usiness  is 
^i  the  handling  and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  which  i^  •'» -7,O(K»,000  worth 

sent  away  annually.  There  are  miles  of  coves  along  the  St,  Lawrence 
^lore,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the  vast  rafts  whicli 

>me  down  from  the  nortliern  forests.    A  very  considerable  expoit  trade 


'  ' 


} 


; 


' 
t 


37G     Iioutc,56. 


QUEIiEf. 


ill  gmin  is  also  (loiM!  litTc,  and  tliu  city  derives  iiiuch  liciu-lit  from  luiiij,' 
till!  tcrinimis  of  tnuisatlaiilic  liiic?  of  slumping,  wliicli  makes  if  a  ilcjiot  of 
immigration.  Quebec  is  l)uilt  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  boiiiidid 
by  the  two  rivers  and  flio  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  tlit; 
Upper  and  Ijowcr  Towns,  the  former  In-ing  enwalled  and  strongly  fortified 
and  standing  on  a  bluff  S'/l  ft.  high,  Avhile  the  latter  is  l)uilt  on  the  eon- 
tracted  stri])s  betwe(!n  the  elill's  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
crooked,  and  often  very  steep,  while  the  houses  are  generally  built  of 
cut  stone,  in  a  style  of  severe  simplicity. 

Jac<|ues  Carticr  set  sail  from  St.  Malo,  in  ttio  spriiiL;  of  ir»35,  with  throe  will- 
arniod  vessels,  anil  steering,'  boldly  to  tlie  wi-stwanl,  lie  euteretl  the  (iuW  of  M. 
Lawreinc  ami  ;^ave  it  its  jncscnt  name,  in  ImiKir  nf  llic  saint  on  wlmsc  festi\.:l- 
day  lie  had  made  tlie  discoveiy.  He  ascended  in  Stadacoiia,  an  Indian  villaj;e  mi 
tlie  site  ofQuehcc  (whose  jircsent  name  is  derived  from  "C^uel  bee  1"  the  N(tnii,iii 
sailors*  sliont  on  seein;;  the  lolty  lU'eripici  ,  or  else  from"  (^iieheio,"  an  Al^'on- 
<|uin  woi'd  meaning'  strait.)  .Af'tei-  asceiidin;^  to  Montreal,  (/artier  returned  to 
Qnebe(!and  wintered  tliei'e,  and  in  KitO  a  t'oit  was  erected  n<'ar  Charleshonr;,'.  .The 
]ilae(^  was  then  deserted  nntil  KidS,  when  C-'ham]iiain  foundeil  Quebec,  and  built  a 
fort  on  its  itreseiit  sit(!.  Franciscan  monks  came  to  I  he  new  colony  in  Kil"),  and 
in  KM  1  a  ])arty  of  Jesuits  arrived.  In  l(i"JS  ISir  David  I\irl<  (or  Kertk)  attacked 
flu!  jdace,  and  in  Ki'J'.i,  after  a  lon^'  blockade,  tin;  Knj^'lish  fleet  took  (Jin'bec.  I( 
was  reslorc'l  to  Franec;  in  lO.'iL',  and  in  ir>:'..>  (Jovernor  Chamj'lain  died  here  and 
was  buried  in  the  l>ower  Town.  In  lOii")  a  lar^e  ci\r<^i>  of  l.idies  arrived  from 
France,  an<l  were  all  disjxised  of  in  marria^'e  within  a  fortnitrlit.  In  Hi7i-*  the 
Count  <le  Froiitenai'.  was  sent  here  as  (loNcrnoi',  ami  in  If'.','")  he  bravidy  rejiulsi  d 
an  attack  by  Sir  Win.  I'hipiis's  fleet  (from  iJosfon),  inflict  in;.;  severe  dama^;e  liy  a 
cannonade  i'rom  the  fort.  J3esides  many  men,  the  a.ssailants  lost  their  adnnral's 
standard  and  ei;.,'.t  vessels.  In  1711  Sir  Hoveiiden  AValker  sailed  from  Boston 
aj,'ainst  t^uebec,  but  he  lost  in  on(;  day  ei,L,dit  vcsr.els  and  SSt  men  by  shijiwreck 
on  the  terrilile  clilfs  of  Cajie  Desesjioir.  Stron,:;  fortifications  were  built  soon 
after  ;  and  in  175'.)  Gen.  Wolfe  came  u])  the  river  with  S,0oo  British  soldieis.  'I'lie 
Marquis  i\r  .Montcalm  was  then  Governor,  and  Ini  moved  the  French  army  into 
fortified  lines  on  Beauport  IMains,  where  he  defeateil  the  British  in  a  san^^'uinary 
action.  On  the  ni;^dit  of  Sept.  1-J,  Wolfe's  army  drifted  upstream  on  the  risin;; 
tide,  and  succeiMled  in  scaling'  the  steep  cliffs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  tired 
upon  by  tli((  French  outi)osts  ;  Imt  bel'ore  Montcalm  could  brin;,'  his  forces  acro.ss 
th(!  St.  "(.'harles  the  British  lines  were  formed  upon  th<'  Plains  of  Abraham  ;  and  in 
the  sliort  liut^  desperate  battle  which  ensueil  both  tlie  generals  were  mortally 
wounded.  Tlie  Fn-lish  lost  (KU  men,  and  the  Fremh  lost  1,500.  The  Freneli 
army,  which  was  larirelv  coniiio.sed  of  provincial  li-vies  (witli  the  re;,'inH;nts  of  J.;i 
Guieiine,  Rov.il  llo'ussilon.  Beam,  Li  Se.rre,  and  !>ani,niedoc)  t^ave  way,  and 
retreateil  acniss  tin;  St.  (^harles,  and  a  few  <lays  later  the  city  surrendered. 

In  Aju-il,  17(10,  the  t'hevalier  do  Levis  (of  that  Levis  family—  Hukcs  of  Veiita- 
dour  -which  claimed  tojiossess  records  of  their  lineal  descent  from  the  jiatriarcli 
Levi)  led  the  reorganized  French  army  to  St.  Foye,  near  Quebec.  Gen.  Murray, 
hoiiin;,'  to  surju-ise  Levis,  advanced  (with  :{,ono  men)  from  his  tine  jxisition  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  ;  but  tlie  French  were  vi-ilant,  and  Murray  was  det'eati'd  and 
linrled  back  witliin  the  city^Mtes,  h  ivin^;  lost  1,000  men  and  -JO  cannon.  Levis  now 
laiil  close  sie'.,^e  to  the  city,  and  battered  the  walls  (and  especially  St.  Jolin's  Gate) 
from  thrcelieavy  field-works.  Quebec  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannon- 
aile  from  l'.V2  ^nus,  until  Commoilore  Swanton  cami'.  up  the  river  with  a  fleet  from 
Fuudand.  Tlie  British  supi'cmacy  in  Canada  was  soon  afterwards  assured  by  tlic 
Treaty  of  I'aris,  and  Voltaire  con.uratulateil  Louis  XV.  on  bein^  rid  (if  *' 1,5'>|> 
lea.nues  of  fro /en  country."  In  the  v.iuter  of  1775  -d  the  Americans  liesiej;ed  the 
city,  then  commanded  liy  (!en.  Gny  Carleton  (afterwards  made  Lord  Dondiester). 
The  ]u-ovisions  of  the  be.sieeers  be.t:an  to  fail,  their  re^dnients  were  l)ein,u'  depleted 
by  sickness,  and  their  liKlit  giuis  made  but  little  impression  on  the  massi>'* 
city-walls;  so  an  assatdt  was  ordered  and  I'onducted  lipfore  dawn  on  Dec.  ,S1.  177'. 
In  the  midst  of  a  heavy  snow-.storm  Arnold  advanced  through  the  Lower  T<n, ; 


i! 


QUEBEC. 


Jioutc  oO.    377 


depot  nf 
bouii<l''l 

into  tlu: 
yfortilH'il 

the   cnn- 
e  narrow, 

built  of 


throe  will- 

r.uif  «>i'  ^'l• 

,se.  IVstiviil- 
11  villiitic  on 
Iho  Noniiiin 
'  n\\  Mi^'on- 
rctiiriieil  t^) 
^(lnl•;.^  Tin; 
,  iUl'l  1">>>'  -i 
in  Un'>,  iiii'l 
tk)  ;\U;icU<mI 

(<(1  licri'  iuiil 

(iiivcil  from 

In   IC.T'J  the 

vAy  rciiulscil 

ifir  iuhiiiral's 
fn.in  IJoston 
Ibv  sliil'wrni-k 
V."'  built  soon 
loldicrs.     Tlif 
h  iivniy  into 
la  siuijiiuiniuy 
,11  the  rising 
lev  were  lirfl 
fi.vccs  across 
lili  im  :  iuul  in 
eve   morlally 
Tlu;   Fn-ncli 
liuHMits  of  1-1' 
v(>  way,  and 
lorcil. 

j-,.s  of  Vcuta- 
lllic  patriarch 
.(Ml.  Murray, 
isilion  on  thf 
l.'loatc<l  ail' I 
Levis  now 
John's  (Jatcl 
Isant  cannon- 
;,  a  fh'ct  from 
urcil  by  the 
i.l  of  "1,-V"» 
1.,.s\e-cd  the 
l)()rchcstci-y 
|.iii,u'  tU'l'lctcil 
the  niassivi" 
^pc.  ;u.  177.^. 
, Lower  Tov.i' 


from  his  quarters  near  the  Ht.  Charles  River,  and  led  liis  SOO  New-F'n^landers  and 
Virvjiiiians  over  two  or  tliree  barricades.  'I'lie  Montreal  r.ank  and  sfvi'ral  other 
Massive  stone  houses  were  liUcdwitli  Uritisli  re^Mlars,  wtio^'uardcd  theaiii>roaches 
witli  sueli  a  deadly  lire  tliat  .\rnoUl's  nicn  were  forced  to  take  rcni;,'e  in  the  ad- 
joinin;^  houses,  while  ArnoM  himself  was  iiadly  wounded  aTid  earrieil  to  tlic  rear. 
Meanwhile  Montgomery  was  leading'  his  Xew-YorUers  and  ("ontincntals  N.  .'doner 
(  liamplain  St.  by  the  river-side.  Tlie  intention  was  for  the  two  attackin,^  columns, 
after (iiiviuK  the  enemy  from  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  Itefore  the  I'rescott  CJate, 
and  carry  it  by  storm.  A  strnim  liarricade  was  stret(died  acro.s;i  Champl.iin  St. 
from  tliecditr  to  the  river  ;  but  when  its  ;;iiards  saw  the  ^,'rcat  masses  ot"  tlie  attack- 
in;,' coiumn  advancing,'  through  tlie  twili,L,dit,  they  tlt-d.  In  all  probability  .Mont- 
j;oniery  would  have  crossed  the  bariicade,  dcHvi-rcd  .Xrnold's  men  by  attai'kiiii,' 
the  enemy  in  tiie  rear,  and  then,  witli  l,.'»ui»  men  lliished  with  victory,  would  have 
e,sralade(i  the  i'rescott  (Jate  and  won  Qmdx'c  and  (.'anada, -- but  that  one  of  the 
fleeing  Canadians,  impidled  by  a  stran;^'e  caprice,  turned  nuickly  back,  and  fired 
tlie  cannon  which  stood  load,  d  on  tlie  barrica<le.  .Mont'.,'oniery  ami  m.aiiy  of  his 
ollic<'rs  and  men  were  stri -ken  ilown  by  the  shot,  and  the  column  broke  up  in 
]>aiiic,aiid  lied.  The  Hrilish  forces  were  now  coni-entr.itccl  on  Arindd's  men,  who 
were  hemmed  in  by  a  sortie  tVom  the  I'alacc  (iate,  and  4"_'()  otlici-rs  and  men  W(  re. 
made  iirisoiiers.  .V  paiiiteil  lioanl  has  been  hun;,'  liiL;h  ni>  mi  tlie  clitf  over  llie 
jilace  in  Cliam]ilain  St.  wiiert!  .Mont^'oiiiery  ti  11.  Mont-jumery  was  an  ollicer  in 
Wolfe's  army  when  Qiieliee  was  taken  fiMm  tlic  French  !•')  years  bi'tore,  and  knew 
tlie  ground.  His  niist.ike  was  in  lieading  the  forlorn  hope.  Quebrc  was  the 
capital  of  Canada  from  17<»0  to  17'.U,  and  after  that  it  served  as  a  senii-capifal, 
until  the  foundin<,'  of  Ottawa  City.  In  ISl.j  •J.'.i'M)  liouses  were  burnt  and  tln^ 
]il:ice  was  nearly  destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber- 
trade  whi(di  is  .still  its  specialty. 

"There  is  no  city  in  Am(>rica  more  famous  in  the  annals  of  liistory  than  Quebe(!, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Luro|i('  more  i>icturesqnely  situated.  Whilst  tlin 
surrounding  scenery  reminds  one  of  the  unrivalled  vicw.s  of  the  Bospliorus,  the 
airy  site  of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  lnns]iruek  and  Ivliniiurgh.  Que- 
hee  may  be  best  ilescrib"d  by  sui)posing  that  an  ancient  Norman  fortress  of  two 
centuries  ago  hail  been  eiii'ased  in  amber,  transported  by  magic  to  Can.ada,  and 
I'laced  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond." 

"Quebec,  at  least  for  an  .American  city,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  place.  A 
military  town,  contjiining  about  'ii^ooo  inhabitants  ;  most  compactly  and  |)erma- 
nontly  built,  — stone  its  sole  material  ;  environed,  as  to  its  most  important  jiarts, 
hy  walls  and  gates,  ami  defeniled  by  numerous  heavy  cannon  :  .  .  .  .  foiind'"l 
U]!  in  a  rock,  and  in  its  liighest  jiarts  overlonking  a  great  extent  of  country  ; 
3 -too  miles  iVoiii  the  ocean,  in  tlie  midst  of  a  gre.it  continent,  and  yet  disjd  lying 
Herts  of  foreign  merchantmen  in  its  line,  eajiacinus  liay,  and  shov.'ingall  the  bustle 
of  a  crowdetl  seaport;  its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  winding  up  and  down 
almost  mountainous  declivities  ;  situatc<l  in  the  latitU'le  of  the  finest  jiarts  of 
Kurojie,  exhi!»iting  in  its  environs  the  beauty  of  an  Kuropeau  capital,  and  yet  in 
winter  sm  irtin.,'  with  the  coM  of  Siberia  ;  governed  by  a  jicople  of  dill'crent 
1  iii;,'uage  and  habits  fi-mi  the  mass  of  the  ]io]inlation,  opjiosed  in  r(di.i;ion,  and 
yet  leaving  that  iiopulalion  without  taxes,  and  in  tlie  enjoyment  of  every  pri vile, '(>. 
livil  and  religious  :  such  arc  the  promin-'ut  features  whiidi  stril^e  a  stranger  in 
the  city  of  Qiuibec."    (Pkok.  Sh.liman.)  . 

"  Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec.  A  fortress  and  a 
eonimereiai  city  together,  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  rocdv  like  the  lu'st  of  an 
ea,de,  while,  her  vessels  are  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  the  ocean  ;  an 
American  city  inhabited  by  FnMudi  colonists,  goM-rneil"  !vy  Fie-d.iinl,  and  garri- 
SDiied  by  Scotch  r.',:;iments  ;  a  city  of  the  Mid'lie  .\gt.'S  by  most  of  its  anident 
institutions,  wliilc  it  is  sulijcct  to  all  tlie  combin  dions  of  mnip'ru  c<nistitnfiM!iaI 
K'>veriimeiit ;  an  Kurnpcan  cityi>y  its  civilization  and  its  iiibits  of  relinemenf,  and 
.stilleloseby  the  reiiiiiuits  of  the  Indian  triii'i  and  the  barren  mts.  (d'  the  .Vortli  ; 
a  city  witli  about  tiie  same  latitude  as  I'aris,  wdiile  succes^^ively  combining  the 
turrid  climate  of  southern  regions  with  the  severities  of  an  hyperborean  wintei  ; 
«'i  city  at  the  same  time  Catholic,  and  Ih'otestant,  wliere  the  labors  of  our  (Fre.ich) 
missions  are  still  uninterrujited  alongside  of  the  undirt  ikings  of  the  Ihbjc  Sorifty, 
and  wdiere  the  Jesuits,  driven  out  of  our  own  country,  find  refuu,e  under  tii« 
a?i;i8  of  British  ruritanisrn."    (X.  M.a.rmier's  "  Lettres  siir  VAincriipir,"  18G0.) 


M 


t 


R  * 


t! 

'I 

i' 

i 


i 

i 

ii 


!) 


378    Route  50.         THE  DURHAM  TERRACE. 

"  Leaving  till!  ("itadi'l,  wo  are  onco  more  in  tlit;  Kinojioaii  Midilk- Ages.  flatfH 
ami  jxistcrns,  craiiUy  stt'i>s  that  lead  iij)  to  lofty,  pililmt  liouses,  with  sliaiji 
Fifiicii  roots  of  hiiniislit'd  till,  liko  those  of  Lie^e  ;  jtrocessioiiH  of  tlieHost  ;  alLiis 
«h'ci<ed  Willi  Hon,  crs  ;  .stilt lies  of  tiic  Vii';,'iii  ;  s.iliots  ;  Mouses  ;  and  the  searlei  of 
the  ihitish  liiu'Siiiaii,  all  these  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  that  are 
Kiaird  Willi  many  a  (,'otentin  laei',  eajt,  anil  all  within  40   miles  of  the  down-ea.st, 

Yankee  .State  of  Maine.     It  is  not  tar  from  New  Knglaiid  to  Old  Fraiiee 

'i'heie  has  heeii  no  dyin;,'  out  of  the!  ra<"e  amon^r  the  French  Canadians.  They 
immber  twenty  times  the  tlioiisamls  that  they  did  100  years  a;,'o.  The  Amerienii 
.soil  li.is  left  their  jihysical  tyjie,  religion,  lam;!iai,'e,  and  laws  ai>soliitely  uiitoiiehed. 
'I'hey  hi'i'd  top'ther  in  their  raniblin;,'  vill,!;.ies,  d.ancc  to  tin-  fiddle  after  mass  on 
Snndays,  —  asgaylyas  onee  did  their  Norman  sires,  and  keep  ii[i  theyfc»r-(/(-//;.s 
und  the  memory  of  Alontealni.  More  Freiicli  than  tlie  Freiieh  are  the  Lower 
Canada  hahHans.  The  pulse-beat  of  the  continent  finds  no  echo  here."  (fSiu 
Chaules  Dilki;.) 

The  Durham  Terrace  is  on  the  riverward  edge  of  tlie  Upper  Town,  ami 
stands  on  llie  bnttre.sses  and  platform  formerly  oeeni)ied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louis,  which  wa.s  built  by  Cliam])hun  in  1(520.  The  old  chateau 
was  a  massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  long,  used  for  a  fortress,  prison,  and 
governor's  palace,  and  it  stood  mitil  1834,  when  it  was  ruined  by  lire. 
The  terraee  is  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a  *  view  of  surpass 
ing  beauty.  Immediately  below  are  the  shiuons  streets  o."  the  Lower 
Town,  witli  its  wharves  {irojecting  uito  the  stream.  On  one  side  are  tin- 
lofty,  fortified  bluffs  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St.  Charles  River 
wimls  away  up  it.s  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of  Beauport  stretch 
oft"  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  wliile  beyond  are  seen  the 
farms  of  L'  Ange  Gardien,  extending  towards  the  heights  of  St.  Fereol.  Ves- 
sels of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the  broad  basui  and  the  river, 
and  the  lich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in  mid-stream  below.  Beyond 
and  over  all  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Laurentiau  Range,  with  Cap  Toiii- 
mente  towering  over  the  river  far  in  the  distance.  The  Terrace  is  tlu; 
favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  a  pleasant  scene  in  the 
late  afternoon  or  on  iilea.sant  Sundays.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Terrai'c^ 
is  a  plain  stone  structure  called  tiie  Old  Chateau,  which  was  built  about 
1780  for  the  British  governors. 

"There  is  not  in  tlie  world  a  nobler  outlook  than  that  from  the  terraee  at  Que- 
bec. Yon  stand  upon  a  rock  overhanyiiij,'  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  tho 
tciiyrd-shii)s'  masts.  Acre  n])on  acre  of  t  iniber  comes  Hoatini,'  down  the  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadian  boat-sonys  ju.-^t  reaching  you  ujioii  the  heights  ;  and 
beneath  you  are  tiects  of  great  sliii)s,  Fnglish,  German,  French,  and  Dutch,  em- 
barking the  timber  from  tlie  floating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  uowhoie 
to  be  seen."    (Siu  Ciiakle.s  Dilke.) 

The  Place  (VArmrs  is  a  pretty  little  i>ark  between  the  Terrace  and  the 
Anglican  Cathedral,  a  large,  i)lain  building  of  stone,  which  has  a  superli 
communion-set  (presented  by  George  III.),  and  within  which  is  the  tonih 
of  Charles,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Lennox,  and  Dauliigny,  who  died  while 
Governor-General  of  Canada  (1819).  The  monument  of  Jacob  Mountain. 
D.  D.,  first  Anglican  Bisho]),  is  in  the  chaiucl.  Dr.  Mountain  was  in  tin 
presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a  doubt  as  to  whom  he  .'^liouli 


i^.  (iatcs 
th  shall" 
»t  ;  uKai-* 
^•iii-lci  "1' 
s  that  MI'' 
l()wn-fa>t, 

,nce 

ns.     They 
America. 1 

[utolH'hfil. 

r  mass  tm 
jii-ur-ilr-h;^ 
lh»^  Lower 
ere."    («i'^ 

rowii,  aii<l 
e  Chateau 
id  chateau 
prison,  au'l 
ed  by  lii-i'. 
of  sun)ass 
the  Lower 
ide  are  th«' 
uirles  Rivei' 
port  stretch 
.re  seen  the 
i'ereoh  Ves- 
id  the  river, 
w.     Beyond 
1  Cap  Tour- 
rrace  is  th(; 
cene  i»  thi' 
the  Terrufc 
built  about 

Ivrace  at  Qvif- 
hwn  upon  the 
V  the  stream 
Iheigtits  ;  aiul 
]l  Dutch,  em- 
arc  noNvhi.ri' 

Lee  and  the 

lias  a  supevh 

lis  the  tonih 

died  w'hil^ 

I)  Mountain. 

i  was  in  th' 

Im  he  shoul  I 


AROUND  THE  RAMTAIITS.        Route  50.     379 

aiiltoint  as  bishop  of  tlu*  new  See  of  Quebec.  Said  the  doctor,  "  Tf  yf)nr 
Majesty  had  faith,  there  woulil  be  no  diniculty."  "  How  so C  sjiid  th(^ 
king.  Mountain  answered,  "If  you  hail  faith,  you  would  say  to  this 
Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would  be  done."  It 
was.  The  Cathedral,  rectory,  and  Chapel  of  All  Saints,  stand  on  rrrotnul 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Franciscan  (Recollet)  monks,  an.l  on  the  .same 
tract  the  Court  Ilnu.'^r  is  built,  frontinj?  on  St.  Louis  St.  Beyond  the 
Court  House  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  are  tin;  ohj  buildings  of 
the  Commissariat  and  Crown  Lands  Departments,  and  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel. 

Around  the  Ramparts. 

The  Street  des  Carrieres  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d'Annes  to  the  Goveru- 
or's  Garden,  a  plea.sant  summer-evening  re.sort,  with  a  monument  65  ft. 
higli,  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  bearing 
the  elegant  and  classic  inscription  : 

MouTKM.    Virtus.     Communkm. 

FaMAM.       HlSTOIUA. 

monumkntcm.     to-stkuitas. 
Dkdit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a  battery  whicli  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carrieres  St.  leads  to  the  inner  ijlacis  of  the  Citadel,  and  by  turning  to 
the  r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be 
.seen.  Passing  a  cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r.,  and  the  ChalnuTs  (Pres.) 
Churcli  on  the  1.,  and  turning  to  the  1.  on  St.  Louis  St.,  the  St.  Louis 
Gate  is  soon  reached.  A  road  turning  to  the  1.  just  inside  the  Gate  leads 
througli  deep,  entrenched  passages  commanded  by  jiowerfnl  batteries,  and 
by  the  Chain  Gate  to  the  Dalhousie  Gate  of  The  CitadeL  Tliis  immense 
fortilication  covers  40  acres  of  ground,  and  is  situated  on  the  summit  of 
Cape  Diamond  (so  called  from  the  glittering  crystals  found  in  the  vicinity), 
wliicli  is  said  to  be  "  the  coldest  place  in  the  British  Einjtire."  Since  tlie 
evacuation  of  Canada  by  the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  has  been  gar- 
risoned by  provincial  volunteers,  and  visitors  are  usually  ])ernutted  to 
pass  around  the  walls  under  the  escort  of  a  soldier.  The  •  view  from  the 
most  nortlierly  bastion  (which  contains  an  immense  Armstrong  gun)  snr- 
jtasses  that  from  the  Durliam  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  most  magniticeiit 
in  the  world.  The  K-tphinndp  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  Louis  Gate, 
and  the  tourist  is  recommended  to  walk  fvlong  the  ramparts  to  St.  John's 
Gate,  viewing  the  deej)  fosse,  the  massive  outworks,  and  the  ancient 
ordnance  at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  theStadacona  Club  House,  the 
< 'ongregational  (Catliojie)  Church,  ami  the  Nation;d  School;  while  the 
suburban  ward  of  Montcalm  is  on  tlie  1.  St.  John's  Gate  is  a  mo(ltiii 
structure,  and  is  both  strong  and  graceful.     While  rallying  his  soldiers 


!i 


'f 


i 


t  •■ 


11 


i 

i 

111 

I 


380     /ioiUr  56. 


QUEBEC. 


jiiht  oiitside  of  this  Giitit,  tlie  Manjuis  de  Montcalm  was  mortally  woiimlfil 
(in  \liA)),  and  f'ol,  Urown  (ot  Mass.)  atiacketl  tlie  Gate  while  Arnold  and 
Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  The  ramjiarts  must  he 
left  here,  and  D'Autenil  and  St.  Ileh'ne  Sts.  follow  their  course  by  the 
Artillery  Barracks  (built  by  the  French  in  IToO)  to  the  Falaco  Gate, 
flose  to  which  is  tin-  ll^^lrl  hint  (faurnif.  This  institution  was  fonntlcd 
by  the  Dnchcssc;  d'Aguillon  (niece  of  Cardinal  Kicliclicu)  in  WM).  In  !•);'>  t 
one  of  the  present  buildings  was  erected,  and  most  of  it  was  built  during 
the  17th  century,  while  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  complete*!  it  in  17G2. 
There  are  30-  40  nuns  of  the  order  of  tho  noi)italicres,  and  the  hospital 
is  o])en  freely  to  the  sick  ami  infirm  jmor  of  whatever  sect,  with  atteinl- 
ance  by  the  l)est  doctors  of  the  city.  Among  the  ]iictun's  here  are.  Virgin 
and  Child,  hy  Coi/pd  ;  Nativity,  Stffh  ;  St.  Wrxmo,  hy  LeSiicur,  "the 
Raphael  of  France."  From  Palace  Gate  to  Ilojie  Gate  (000  ft.)  the  ram- 
parts may  be  followed,  with  fine  views  over  the  two  rivers,  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  the  Ijaurentian  Mts.  The  walls  are  built  on  a  lofty  cliff,  and 
arc  very  thin,  but  have  lines  of  loo]»holes  and  are  guarded  by  bastions. 
Hope  Gate  was  built  in  17S1,  and  has  well-fortificcl  ai»i)r()aclies.  The 
rami>arts  may  be  followed  from  this  point  to  the  Parliament  House,  pass- 
ing the  stately  Laval  Vniversity  and  the  (Irand  Jiattery,  where  22  32- 
poumlers  command  the  river,  and  wlicnce  a  pleasing  view  may  be  ol»- 
tained.  The  Parliament  House  is  on  the  site  of  Clianqdain's  fort  and 
the  ancient  Ej>isco])al  i)alace,  and  is  an  extensive  but  i>Iain  building,  whose 
glory  has  dejiarted  since  the  decapitalization  of  Quebec.  A  short  distance 
beyond  is  tlie  Prescott  Gate,  the.  main  avenue  of  communication  between 
the  Upper  and  Lower  Towns,  and  Durham  Terrace  is  just  S.  of  the  Gate. 
The  Market  Square  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
presents  a  curious  and  interesting  appearance  on  market-mornings,  wlien 
the  French  ]>easantry  bring  in  their  farm  products.  On  the  E.  is  tlie 
Roman  Cathedral  of  the  Jmmacvlate  Coneefdion,  which  was  built  in  16GG, 
destroyed  by  cannonading  froni  Wolfe's  batteries  in  17r)9,  and  rebuilt  soon 
after.  Its  exterior  is  (piaint,  irregular,  and  homely,  but  tlie  interior  is 
more  pleasing,  and  accommodates  4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well 
adorned,  and  the  choir  of  boys  from  the  Seminary  is  much  esteemed. 
The  most  notable  pictures  are,  *  *  The  Crucilixion  ("  the  Christ  of  the 
Cathedral,"  the  finest  painting  in  Canada),  by  Van  Dyck  (on  the  first  pillar 
1.  of  th^  altar)  ;  the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul,  Carlo  Marat ti ;  the  Annunci- 
ation, Restout  ;  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  Ilalli' ;  the  Pentecost,  Vir/iwn  ; 
Miracles  of  Ste.  Anne,  Plainojiflon  ;  Angels  Waiting  on  Christ,  Restout 
(in  the  choir)  ;  the  Nativity,  copy  from  Au)ii//<(1''  Caracei  ;  Holy  Family, 
Blanchard.  The  remains  of  Champlain,  the  heroic  exjtlorer  and  founder 
and  first  Governor  of  Quebec,  are  in  the  Cathedral.  Alougsiile  of  the 
Cathedral  are  the  ancient,  rambling,  and  cxtensi\'c  buildings  of  the  Semi- 


QUKP.KC. 


nn„ter,(].   381 


uult'vl 
(I  Jltlll 
»sL  Ix', 
^y  \\w 
Gate, 

11  loni 

during 

1702. 

ospitul 

attt'iiil- 

Virgin 
,-,  "the 
u-  r.'uu- 

Islc  of 
•lilT,  aii'l 
)Ustions. 

;s.     The 
se,  p;iss- 
e  22  r.2- 
y  be  oli- 
fovt  and 
ig,  whose 
,  distance 
Lc'twoen 
he  Gate, 
iiwp,  and 
igs,  when 
E.  is  the 
|tinl66G, 
Ituilt  soon 
iteviov  is 
lav  is  ^veU 
■stecnied. 
,st  of  the 
|ivst  pillar 
Annunci- 
Vignon ; 
,  Rcstoid 
Family, 
founder 
llo   of  tlu' 
Ihe  Semi- 


nary, which  was  founded  in  1(503  by  F'ran^-ois  de  Montniorenci  LnvJ. 
IJishop  of  Quebec  from  U)!)H  to  lOMM.  This  instittition  is  divided  into  Le 
(,'riiud  Siinimiiri'.  mid  Lr  /'rtit  Smiinnir*'  ;  tlie  first  l)ein;»  a  aeiiool  of 
theology,  and  tlie  second  being  devoteil  to  litevatun?  and  seifiKx;  (for  boys). 
There  are  about  400  students,  who  uiuy  be  distinguishetl  in  the  streets  by 
llieir  uniform. 

'I'lif!  Seinlnnry  Cliapel  has  some  line  paintings  (lieKimiinj;  at  the  r.  of  the 

ciitraiiie):  Tlic  ^Savil)lll•  and  tlie  Samaritan  \Vi>man,  Ld  Unnirr  ;  T\w  Vir;,'in  At- 
tiiKle'l  tiy  An;;els,  Dim  ;  'Ilic,  Crucilixioii.  Moiirf ;  Tlie  llcrinits  of  tlii'  TlKibaitl, 
dit'llot;  The  Virtimi  of  St.  Jerome,  h'lliiUin;  *riie  Ascciisimi,  l'ltilUi>c  ilv  Chum- 
j'li'jnr ;  Tlie  Uiiiial  of  (,'liri.st,  llutiii;  (ovi-r  tlie  altar)  Tlie  Flij,'lit  into  f'^jivpt, 
I'tnton;  abovt^  wiiidi  is  a  jiietnreof  aii;,'els,  Lrbrun;  The  Trance  of  Ht.  Anthony, 
I'lirrorel  d'Ai'itjuon  ;  The  iJay  of  I'enteoost,  P.  dc  Cluimiiaijnc  ;  St.  I'etcr  Freed  from 
I'risoii,  I)t;  1(1  Fosse:  The  Uaptisiii  of  Christ,  Itidiv ;  St.  .Icroiiie  Writ  in;;,  .A.  /;. 
ClitiiniHi'inf ;  Adoration  of  the  Maj,'i,  Il<niii!<it.  "The  Chapel  on  the  r.  of  the  chief 
ail.ir  contains  the  relics  of  St.  Clement ;  that  on  the  1.  the  relics  of  St.  Moilestus." 

Adjoining  the  Seminiuy  is  its  goodly  child,  tin;  Laval  University, 
v.liose  main  building  is  of  cut  stone,  30j  ft.  loni,' and  5  st(jries  high,  and 
cost  .'5240,000.  The  museum  of  Huron  antifputie.s,  the  collection  of  Ca- 
nadian birds,  the  lilirary  of  nearly  50,000  volumes,  the  fine  scientific  in- 
struments, the  great  hall  of  convocation,  and  the  far-viewuig,  enrailed 
jiromenade  on  the  roof  are  all  wortliy  of  a  visit.  The  extensive  dormi- 
tories and  the  medical  college  occupy  substantial  stone  buildings  in  the 
vicinity. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Market  Square  is  the  great  pile  of  buildings 
which  were  partlj'  erected  in  1640,  for  the  Jesuits'  College.  The  college 
was  suspended  in  1709  by  Gen.  Murray,  who  ([uartered  liis  troops  liere, 
anil  in  1809  the  property  reverted  to  the  Crown,  on  the  death  of  the  last 
of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  have  since  been  used  for  barracks, 
when  u.sed  at  all.  Passing  St.  Anne's  Market  and  the  Anglican  Cathedral, 
Garden  St.  cuns  S.  to  the  Ursuline  Convent,  which  was  founded  by 
Madame  de  la  Peltrie  in  1(339.  Part  of  the  present  buildings  were  built 
in  1GS6,  and  with  the  gardens  and  offices  they  cover  7  acres.  There  are 
40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and  also  to  working  in  em- 
broidery, painting,  &c.  Tlie  parlor  and  chapel  are  open  to  visitors,  aiul 
in  the  latter  are  .some  good  paintings  :  *  Mater  Dolorosa,  Van  Dyck  ;  The 
Saviour,  t'hampafjne ;  Christ  in  Simon's  House,  Champagne;  and  a 
small  picture  by  Jicstout.  Within  a  grave  made  by  a  shell  which  burst 
in  this  chapel,  during  Wolfe's  bombardment,  is  buried  ''the  High  and 
Mighty  Lord,  Louis  Joseph,  Manpiis  of  Montcalm,"  and  over  his  remains 
is  the  in.scription,  "  Honneur  a  Montcalm  !  Le  <lestin  en  lui  derobant  la 
victoire  I'a  reconii)ense  par  line  mort  glorieuse  !  "  Morrin  College  (on  St. 
Anne  St.)  is  a  neat  stone  building,  in  one  of  whose  halls  is  the  extensiva 
and  valuable  liljrary  of  the  Quebec  Historical  Society  (open  to  the  pub- 
lic).    There  are  several  other  churches  and  public  buildings  among  the 


I  I 


^T 


382   nouie  r,n. 


QUEBEC. 


i 


iiiirrow  str<!C'ts  of  tlie  TJppnr  Town.  St.  Pofri<//.<t,  on  St.  Helen  St.,  lias 
ri  nt!iit  lojiic  inlfrior,  and  Hm-  clnncli,  niaiisc,  a;ul  .scIkk)!  of  St.  vVndn-w 
(I'lvshytoriun)  occupy;  stonc!  hnildiiif^'s  on  St.  Anne  St.  At  i\w.  conifi  of 
St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (se<!ond  story)  is  a  statue  of  Wolfe,  wldrli  is 
nt'uily  a  century  old,  and  lioarH  such  a  relation  to  Quebec  as  does  the 
JMaiinikin  t<>  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  liy  nij^lit  liy  some  r(»ysteriiif^ 
nav'id  ()llic(!rs,  an<l  carried  oil'  to  BarluKloes,  wlience,  it  was  returned  many 
months  after,  enclosed  in  a  «'ollin.  In  the  front  of  the  I' »st-OIIice,  on 
Buade  St.,  is  a  figure  of  a  dog,  carved  in  tlie  stone  and  gilded,  uncler  which 
is  the  inscription  :  — 


"Jc  siili  iin  chlon  qui  roii^p  I'os  ; 
Kii  Ic  nuifji'iiiit  iu  proud  mon  rcpon. 
I'll  ttMnpH  viciiiira  (}ni  ii'cHt  puK  vlmiu 


Wliilc  I  (.'iiiiw  I  tiikf  my  repoic. 
The  tiiii''  will  ciiiiii'.  thiMiKli  ii"t  vet, 
Wlicn  I  will  biti'  iiim  whu  now  bltcit  mc") 


Quf  ju  inurilraiH  ([ui  in  aum  iiioiilu." 

This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Bigot  liy  M.  IMiilibert,  who  hud 
sufh'rccl  wrong  from  him ;  but  soon  after  the  caned  stone  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Phililnirt's  house,  that  gentleman  was  assassinated  hv  an 
ollicer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  East  Indian 
aiiny,  but  was  pursued  by  ^'hilibert's  brother,  and  after  a  severe  conflict 
was  kilh  I  at  Pondiclierry.  Near  the  I'  'st-Ollice  is  the  large  and  elegant 
buihling  of  the  JUshojt's  Palace,  ^i  mtaiu  St.  descends  through  the 
Prescott  Gate  to  the  Lower  Town,  \ith  the  steej),  crowded,  and  pictu- 
rcsciue  Chanijdaiii  8lcj)s  on  the  r.,  near  whose  foot  the  remains  of  Cham- 
plain  were  recently  found,  in  the  vault  of  an  ancient  chapel. 

-The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  W.  from  the  ( ity  walls  to 
the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  In  the  latter  ward  is  the  large  Church 
of  St.  John  (( 'atholic),  and  also  the  (Iray  Nunnery  (70  sisters),  with  a 
lofty  and  elegant  chapel.  Above  the  Nunnery  and  fronting  on  the  glacis 
is  the  Convent  of  the  Christian  Brothers.  The  steep  street  called  Cute 
d'Abraham  descends  thence  to  the  Jacipies  Cartiir  Waiil  of  the  Lower 
Town,  beyond  which,  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  <  harles,  is  the  Marine 
Hospital,  a  large  and  imposing  modern  buihling  in  Ionic  architecture 
(with  G  acres  of  grounds)  ;  and  the  General  Hospital,  an  extensive  pile 
of  buildings,  founded  by  Dc  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  Quebec  (in  1G93), 
and  conducted  by  40 --50  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  The  i  hurches  of  St. 
Sinrenr{m  the  Banlicu)  and  St.  Jioch  are  large  structures,  with  many 
inferior  pictures,  and  the  /Uack  Niinacry  in  near  the  latter.  St.  Koch's 
Ward  is  mostly  devoted  to  manufactories  and  to  shijibuilding  (on  the  St. 
Charles  shore).  St.  Paul  St.  runs  E.  between  the  fortified  cliti's  and  the 
river,  to  St.  Peter  St.,  which  turns  S.,  and  near  which  are  the  chief  banks, 
wholesale  houses,  and  harbor  oflices.  At  the  neighboring  wharvts  are  the 
shi])s  and  ocean-steamers,  with  many  small  and  dirty  steamboats  whicli 
])ly  to  the  neighboring  river-towns.  The  Custom  IJuuse  (near  Pointe  a 
Garcy)  and  the  Chanqilain  Market  are  in  this  quarter,  and  are  Hue  stone 


4 


CAP  iioroR 


Rout,'  50.    383 


nils  to 
!huiTli 
with  a 
(jlacin 
I  Cute 
Lower 
arine 
et'ture 
ve  yiile 
lG9a), 
of  St. 
mauy 
llocli's 
the  St. 
ml  tlh' 
banks, 
lare  tlio 
whiiU 
iutc  ;i 
stout; 


CI 


luiilliiigs.  Tilt!  Cliurcli  of  Xntif  Dainc  <1ps  Vlntoivps  Is  a  plain  oM  slnic 
turc  near  tli«  markot,  wliich  <l;it«*s  fnmi  lKif(»rp  1«11M).  It  was  ho  nanuxi, 
a:i'l  was  tlfcoratt'd  with  trn|iliit's,  in  trnvlitiuld  for  tlu*  defeat  of  Sir  Win. 
riiipiis'  attack  in  ItV.Ki,  iinl  the  teniliie  disaster  to  Admiral  Walk  ts  i-x- 
|ic(Iition  at  Cape  Pesespoir.  'i'lie  Qm  en's  Kuel  Yard  is  helnw  the  I'alaeo 
(Jatc,  and  ocenjiies  the  site  of  un  immense  range  of  bnildiiif^'s  orocted  by 
]{ip»t,  13th  and  last  Tioyal  (French)  Tntendant.  Here  lie  lived  in  all  tin* 
fiuiial  s))lendor  of  the  old  Fnine.h  nnhlrsac,  on  the  revenues  which  lie  eX' 
tortt'd  from  the  oiipresstd  province.  In  Ml^)  tin*  palace  was  captured  by 
Arnold's  Virj^'inia  ritlemeii,  who  so  >rre,atly  annoyed  the  pirrison  that  the 
buildings  were  set  on  lire  and  consnincd  by  slndls  from  the  batteries  of 
the  Upper  Town.  Under  the  ple;i  of  "municipal  improvements,"  it  is 
stated  that  considerable  jtortions  of  the  old  city  walls  are  now  (1873) 
being  removed. 

Environs  of  Quebec. 

Point  Levi  is  across  the  river  from  Quebec,  and  is  a  rapidly  growing 
place,  Avhere  the  Grand  Trunk  llailway  terminates.  Upon  the  steep 
bluffs  are  two  neat  <'hurches,  and  a  short  distance  to  the  E.  is  a  series  of 
powerful  earth\vf>rks,  intemled  to  prevent  the  establishment  of  hostile 
batteries  within  shelling  distance  of  (Quebec.  IS  M.  from  i'oint  Ijevi  aro 
tlic  *  Fidh  of  the  t'haudifir,  where  that  river  dash;-s,  in  a  sheet  tioO  ft.  wide, 
down  a  preci[iie.e  150  ft.  high.  The  Chandicre  descends  from  Lake  Me- 
gantic,  near  the  Maine  frontier,  passing  through  the  Canadian  gold-tieids. 
Arnold's  hungry  an<l  heroic  anny  follow.ecl  the  course  of  this  river  from 
its  source  to  its  mouth.     (See  page  ;n8). 

Cap  Rouge  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  and  maybe  reached  by  the  (Jrando 
Alice,  i»assing  out  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate.  The  roail  leads  by  the  Canada 
Military  Asylum,  St.  Bridget's  Asylum,  and  the  jail,  and  near  the  toll- 
gate  (on  the  1.)  is  seen  a  monument  inscribed,  "Here  die<l  Wolfe,  Vic- 
torious." The  .scene  of  the  IJattle  of  the  Plains  is  on  either  hand,  and  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  stretch  away  to  the  S,  There  are  four  Martello  Towers 
on  the  neighboring  fields,  each  built  in  a  circular  form  and  of  heavy 
masonry,  while  the  massive  stone  jail,  being  j»rovide<l  with  long  lines  of 
loopholes,  is  an  efhcient  outwork.  About  2  M.  out,  the  Mount  Ifernion 
Cemetery  is  passed,  with  the  elegant  Chai^el  of  St.  Michael,  and  the 
whole  distance  between  the  city  and  Cap  liouge  is  linid  witli  fine  old 
villas  of  the  noblesse  ami  gentry  of  Lower  Canada.  Redclyfle  Mansion  is 
on  the  cape,  near  where  Roberval  wintered  in  1*541,  and  in  the  same 
vicinity  batteries  were  erected  by  Montcalm  and  Murray.  In  returning 
to  the  city,  it  is  best  to  turn  to  the  1.  at  St.  Albans,  and  gain  the  Ste.  Foy 
roa<l.  The  broad  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  is  overlooked  from 
this  road,  and  Lorette  may  be  seen  in  the  distance.     As  the  citv  is  nearly 


384     I!<>uU'5(i.         FALLS  OF   MONTM()UK*('L 


U.' 


I  • 


aiiproaclicti,  on  tin- 1.  is  sfi'ii  ii  niommitntal  (•ohiiiin  siniiioniitfd  ]:y  :i  stutuo 
of  l!fll(»iia  (j»ri'Mt'iiti'(l  )iy  Piiiit  •.•  iNiipoltoiO,  wliii'li  marks  tin'  sito  ai'  the 
liL-rcc'st  part  <tf  th<'  StToml  IJalllc  of  the  I'laiiis,  when  Do  Levis  tlcfcatcl 
Murray  (Ur*!)).  The  inoiunnont  was  dtMlicNitrd  with  great  j)oiiip  in  1851, 
and  stands  over  tlic  gravi'  ol'  many  Imndrods  wlio  r<  II  in  tlio  tiglit.  I'ass- 
inf^  now  the  Iiandsotnc  i''iiday  Asylum  and  several  villus,  tlio  sulmrl)  of 
St.  .lolin  i'i  cntereil. 

Indian  Lorette  is  1)  I\L  from  Que1)ec,  by  t'lo  liittle  Ilivor  Road.  It  is 
an  uncieut  village  of  the  IlnronH  ("  Catholics  and  uUies  of  France  "),  and 
the  present  inhaMtants  are  a  (juitt  and  reli;.'ious  jieople  in  whom  tin; 
Indian  Mood  i)redominales,  thou;_di  it  is  never  unmixed.  The  men  hunt 
and  fish,  tlie  women  make  l»ea<l-work  and  moecasins,  and  the  hoys  earn 
j>enni(!s  by  dexterous  arelieiy.  The  Lnrette  Falls,  near  the  village,  are 
very  i)retty,  and  a  few  miles  farther  inland  are  tlui  [jakes  of  Beaupoi-t 
and  St.  Charles.  The  latter  is  4  M.  long,  and  is  famed  for  its  red  trout 
and  for  its  remarkable  eehocs. 

t'harlcHlxun'ii,  1  M.  from  Quebec,  is  an  ancient  village,  with  two 
Catholic  chuii'hes,  situated  on  a  jileasant  and  i»ietures(iue  road.  In  the 
vicinity  is  the  llcrinilaiji',  or  Chateau  liigot,  a  gray  and  romantic  ruin  at 
the  foot  of  Mt.  des  Ormcs,  where  13igot,  the  last  intendant  of  Canada, 
kept  and  visited  a  lovely  Algontpiin  girl,  until  his  wife  discovered  the 
secret,  and  soon  thereafter  the  Indian  maiden  was  cruelly  liuirdcred. 

The  *  *  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  about  H  M.  IVom  the  ('ity,  by  a  road 
which  crosses  the  St.  ( 'liarles  liiver,  jiasses  several  tine  ohl  mansions,  and 
traverses  the  long,  straggling  village  of  Bcaujtort,  with  its  stately  church 
and  roadside  cresses.'  The  falls  are  250  ft.  Iiigh  and  50  ft.  wide,  —  a  solid 
and  comi)act  mass  of  water  incessantly  plunging  over  a  ju'ecipice  of  black 
vock,  with  clouds  of  mist  and  a  deafening  roar.  The  Montmorenci  flows 
into  the  St.  Lawrence  a  short  distance  below.  Near  the  falls  is  Ilaldi- 
mand  House,  formerly  (XH'upied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  \'ictoria's 
father;  and  on  the  dills  by  the  river  are  seen  the  towers  of  a  suspension 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  into  the 
fatal  abyss  below.  A  small  fee  is  charged  for  entering  the  fields  to  view 
the  falls,  and  the  tourist  must  be  cr.reful,  not  only  to  visit  the  pavilion 
near  the  falls  (which  commands  also  a  charming  view  of  Quebec),  but  to 
insist  on  being  conducted  to  a  position  low  down  on  the  shore,  from  which 
the  stupendous  plunge  of  the  Montmorenci  may  best  be  seen.  About  1^ 
M.  above  the  falls  are  the  Natural  8t.eps,  where  the  river  has  cut  the 
ledges  into  a  similitude  to  steps,  meanwhile  contracting  its  channel.  The 
views  on  the  road  back  to  Quebec  are  very  beautiful.  At  the  foot  of 
these  falls  an  immense  ice-cone  (sometimes  200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every 
winter,  and  here  the  favorite  sport  of  tobogginning  is  carried  on. 

Ste.  Anne  is  2-4  M.  below  Quebec  (tri-weckly  steamers),  and  has  a  small 


-.    ;!i 


■ .  .•  s 


THE  SAGUKNaY   UIVEK. 


Hiutte  60.     ot<5 


Uituc 
.(•  the 

f.-!ltl'<l 

1854, 

PtlHH- 

ul>  of 

U  in 
"),  tuitl 
m\  the 
n  Innit 
ivs  earn 
;ipo,  are 
eaupoi't 
(ii\  trout 

itU  two 
In  the 
;  ruin  at 
Canada, 
eretl  tho 
ireil. 

)y  a  road 
oiiH,  and 
|y  cliurcli 
a  solid 
of  V)lack 
iiei  flows 
s  Ilaldi- 
,'ictona's 
siiension 
into  tiie 
to  view 
pavilion 
I),  but  to 
|m  which 
.bout  li 
cut  the 
•\.     The 
foot  of 
sd  every 


iun.    2-3  M.  from  Ihti  inn  are  tlie  beautiful   luffs  of  Sfc.  Anne,  below 
wiiichthe  river  1)1  the  same  iiunie  ditshes  down  tlirou^h  a  dark  and  sombre 
ravine.     The /''(//v ';/' .S/.  /'V-rtc/,  the  Seven    Fulls,  an<l  other  remarkahh) 
ul)iect.s,  an'  in  thih  \fciuity,  wliile  jiiht  \V.  of  tiie  village  is  Mt.  Ste.  Anne, 
;i  liieturestiue  isuniiiiit  J,»i»7  ft.  hii^'h.      Lake  St.  .loachin  is   a  few  miles 
di.stant,  and  abounds  in  trout,  while  tJ-8  M.  below  is  the  bold  mountain- 
iiromontory  called  Cup  Ttntrmrnle.     Wltliin  the  village  is  tho  beautiful 
little  pilgrimage-ehureh  of  Ste.  Anne,  when-  it  is  said  that  many  surpris- 
ing ndraeles  have  been  wrought  by  relies  of  La   Bonne  Ste.  ,\nne  (whieh 
lire  kept  in  a  erystal  globe).     Crulehis  and  other  helpers  of  the  sick  and 
deformed  are  hung  upon  the  walls  of  the  saeristy,  their  owners  having 
been  made  whole,  wlnle  numerous  rud(!  votive  pictures  adorn  the  ehapels. 
rhdtenu  liuJier  is  S.  of  Ste,  Anm»,  and  has  the  ruins  of  a  Kraneisean 
monastery  on  a  bold  i)oint  over  the  river.     This  monastery  was  l)uilt  in 
1(!1)5,  and  was  so  stunlily  defended  against  (Jen.  VVolft;  (t^vt-n  the  monks 
fought)  that  he  was  obliged  to  destroy  it  by  eamionading.      From   the 
parish-ehureh,  near   the  ruins,   beautiful   views  are  gained   of    L'Ange 
Gardien,  (;ai>e  Diamond,  and  the  Isl<'.  of  Orfcansy  "the  Garden  of  Lower 
Canada."    This  isle  is  '20  M.  long  and  5-G  M.  wide,  and  is  famed  for  its 
ricli  soil.     Cartier,  in  15'?'),  named  it  the  Isle  of  Uaechua,  and  in  1G7<5  it 
Avas  made  into  the  Earldom  of  St.  Laurent. 

The  Saguenay  River  (lla   lla   I5ay)   is   132   M.   from   Quebee,   and 
steamers  run  send-we(;kly.     Below  the  St.  Marguerite  Islands  (of  whieh 
(Joose  and  Crane  are  the  largest),  the  St.  Lawrence  attain.s   aiid  keeps  a 
width  of  about  20  M.  with  18  ft.  tides,  and  with  seals,  porpoises,  and 
whales  playing  in  the  clear  salt  water.     The  Isle  of  Orleans  is  passed  on 
tlie  N.,  and  tlie  (piarantine  stations  on  (jrrossr.  Isle  are  seen,  near  the  vast 
j)romontory  of  Cap  Tourniente.     The  Isfe  aux  Voudrcs  has  a  populatittn 
more  purely  Norman  in  its  blood  and  habits  than  any  other  in  Canada. 
Ste.  Anne,  on  tho  S.  E.   shore,  has   a  Catliolic  College   (French),  and 
J/a/iate  (Murray  Bay),  80  M.  from  Quebec,  is  a  favorite  summer-resort 
lor  the  better  classes  of  the  French  Canadians.     The  .steamer  cros.ses  to 
Riviere  du  Loup,  the  terminus  of  tlie  Graml  Trunk  Railway  on  the  K. ; 
6  M.  from  whieh  is  Cacouna  (St.  Lawrence  Mall,  kv,.),  the  Newport  of 
Canada,  where  thousands  of  visitors  enjoy  .sea-bathing  during  .the  heat.s 
of  summer.     Tri- weekly  stages  run  from  Riviere  du  Loup  to  the  Grand 
Fulls  of  the  St.  John   River,  -whence  stages  connect  with  route  49  (see 
page  323).     The  steamer  now  crosses  the  wide  river  to   Tadousac  (lai'go 
sunimer-hotel),  a  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Conij>any  at  the  mouth  of  tho 
Saguenay  River.     Tadousac  was  early  fortified  by  tlie  French;  it  was  the 
residence  of  Pere  Marquette,  who  explored  the  Mississipjii  Valley;  and  it 
now  has  a  venerable  Catholic  church,  which  is  said  to  be  more  than  2.^ 
lenturies  old.     The  vast  cafion  through  which  the  Saguenay  rolls  its  black 
17  Y 


.v^ 


38G    Route  5G. 


THE  SAGUENAY    KIVER 


I 


■ 


'.viiters  is  now  entered,  and  lufty  peaks  and  palisades  tower  on  either  side. 
After  pa«L;iiig  La  iioule  and  the  Troliles,  M  M.  a1  une  Taduusae,  tiie 
majestic  *  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Etarnity  ri.^e  on  t!'.e  S.  to  the  height 
of  2,(H)0  fi.  cacli,  guarding  Hie  t-ntraiico  to  Trinity 'Bay.  The  water  at 
the  l)a.se  of  these  peaks  is  over  GUO  lathonis  deep. 

"  SiuMoiily  the  boat  r    iiided  tlio  corner  of  tin-  tliico  steps,  each  500  ft.  liiKli,  in 
whuli  CiiiK'  Hternity  cliinhs  from  tlie  river,  and  erejit  in  uudtr  tiie  naked  Hide'ol 
tlieawrnl  cliir.     ll  is  slieer  lock.  sprinKinj;  IVoni  the  hlack  water,  and  stret.clnn>,' 
upward  with  a  weary,  ellort  hke  aspect,  in  Unv^  impulses  ofstonct  marked  liy  (h^ej* 
seams  trom  space  to  siiaee,  tdl,  l.r.uii  tt.  in  air,  its  vast  inow  l.eet.h;s  forward,  and 

frowns  witiia     Mtterinh  .rm^'eof  pines The  roek  rullyjustitics  its  attributive 

l;eii,'ht  to  tiie  eye,  whiel>  follows  tiie  upward  rush  of  the  lidglity  aeelivity,  steep 
alter  steej),  tdl  it  wins  tlie  (doud-eapt  summit,  \v\wu  the  measureless  uiass'seems 
to  swint;  and  sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that 
besets  lum  wiio  Uxdis  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  pre(  ipice.  It  is  wholly 
grim  an<l  stern  ;  no  tou<di  id"  beauty  n-lieves  tiie  austere  niiOesty  of  that  presence. 
At  the  foot  of  Cape  Eternity  the  water  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a 
black  expanse,  in  the  rounding  h(dlow  of  .shores  of  unimagiuaitle  wildness  and 
desolation,  and  issues  agcin  in  its  river's  course  arouuvl  the  base  of  Cape  Trinity. 
.This  is  yet  loftier  than  the  sister  ( litf,  but  it  slopes  gently  liackward  from  the 
stream,  and  from  foot  to  crest  it  is  heavily  ( lothcfd  with  a  forest  of  pines.  The 
woods  that  hitherto  have  shagge<l  the  hills  with  a  stunted  and  meagre  growth, 
showing  long  .stretclies  .scarred  by  lire,  now  assume  a  stattdy  size,  ami  as.sv'mblo 
themscdves  compactly  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain,  setting'  their  serried  stems 
one  rank  above  anothei',  till  the  summit  is  crowiied  with  the  ma.s«  of  their  dark 
green  idinnes,  <h'use  and  soft  and  beautitul  ;  .so  that  tiie  sjiiiit,  perturbed  by  the 
sjiei  ta(  le  of  the  otht  r  (litf,  is  ealiiicd  and  assuaged  l>ytl.e  serene  grandeur  of  this." 
—  From  W.  U.  IIowells's  A  Vlutncc  Acmaintance. 

Statue  Point  aTid  Le.s  Tableaux  are  ne.xt  pas.sed,  and  then  Ila  If  a  liai/ 
is  reached,  witli  its  two  small  villages,  10-12  M.  above  which  is 
Chuoutimi,  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  8t)  M.  farther  N.,  in  tin; 
l)Oson!  of  a  vast  and  desolate  wilderness,  is  the  reservoir  of  the  Sagnenay, 
the  gK-at  Lake  of  St.  John. 

From  Quebec  to  Springfield,  Hartford,  New  TLiven,  and  New  York, 
see  Route  24.  From  Quebec  to  T-Soston,  by  Lake  Memphrcnrngog,  White 
River  Junction,  and  Concord,  see  Routes  24  and  29  ;  to  Boston,  by  way  of 
Gorham,  Portland,  and  the  sea-shore,  see  Routes  40  and  37;  or  byway  of 
Gorham,  Portland,  and  La.vrence,  see  Routes  40  and  38. 


i 


t.       :C, 


tlier  silk'. 

VISUC,    till' 

he  height 
water  at 


ft.  liinh,  in 
veil  Bide  ol' 

stretching 
;e  I  liy  deej* 
rward,  and 
attriliutive 
ivity,  stceit 
mass  seems 

terror  tliat 
It  is  wholly 
it  i)resenee. 
I  spreads,  ii 
ildiiess  and 
ijie  Trinity, 
(l  from  the 
pines.  Tin; 
i^re  growth, 
id  ash^'inlili) 
;rried  stems 
f  their  dark 
rbed  by  the 
eiirof  this." 

ht  Ha  Boy 
which  is 
N.,  in  the 
Saguenay, 

Tew  York, 

:og,  Whito 

.)y  way  oi 

by  way  of 


INDEX. 


i 


Ahington.  Mass.  ,'il. 
Acton,  Mnss.  VM. 
Ailiims.  Mt.  '230. 
Ad.Iison,  Vt.  1S4. 
Ailirondaeks,     Iloutcs     to 
the  Wol,  ;Ui4,  36.5,  367 
Agamentieus,  Mt   207. 
Alhiiiiy  Hasins.  Mo.  288. 
Ail.iuiy.  X.  Y.  :54s,  142. 
Alliiirgh  Sprin;;s,  V..  2''7. 
.Mtred,  Me.  21:5 
Alton  IJaV-  N.  II.  218,  282, 
Ai-ih.ist.  Stass.  100,  102. 
Amherst.  N.  H.  102. 
Ainmonoosue  Falls  -I'S'i, 
.\ii(iover.  Mass.  27(). 
Aniiaiidale,  X.  Y.  .'U7. 
.\iiiiisf|iiain,  Mass.  247. 
An.son,  Me.  2'.<4. 
Aiisonia,  (Jonn.  111. 
Antlioiiy's  Xose  :i44,  300, 
Arlington,  Vt.  185. 
Arrowsie,  Me.  21(7. 
Artlial.aska,  Can.  200. 
Alt  lair's  Seat.  Mass.  178. 
Artists'  Falls.  N.  H.  22.'). 
Arti.sts'  Ledge.  X.  H.  22:.. 
As(istne.\,  Mt.  100. 
A.sldinrnhani,  Mass.  177. 
Asliford,  Ci'iiii.  lis. 
A.-^liland.  X.  H.  210. 
Ashlev  Falls,  Mass.  115. 
.\sso\>amsett  Tond  M. 
Alliens,  X.  Y.  348. 
Vitlehorongh.  Mass.  62. 
AMliiiri),  Me.  308. 
Augusta,  Me.  311, 
All  Sahle  Chasm  .307. 
Avnn,.Conn.  100. 
Aver  June.,  Mass.  170. 
Aylnier  Lake,  Can.  2l»0. 

liald  Head  Cliff,  Me.  207. 
liald  Mt.,  N.  H.  239. 
Baldwin,  Me.  285. 
Lallardvale,  Mass.  270. 
Jiallston  Spa,  N.  Y.  350. 
Jiangor,  Me.  315.  318. 
l>.intani  Lake,  Conn.  112. 


Rir  Ttarhor,  Mo.  30.3,  304. 

Marnet,  Vt.  100. 

Uarton,  Vt.  171. 

Bash  Bish  Falls  122,  153, 

liasin,  tl  '.;  240. 

Math,  Me.  207. 

Bath,  X.  II.  211. 

Bay,  Belfast  317-^ 

!;..st"i.  20. 

Biirliii;;ton  .%;>• 

Uiizzard's  58,  92. 

Caseo  274. 

Frenchman's  .304. 

Fiindy  321. 

Ha  Ha3SO. 

Missisquoi  207. 

Xiirragansett  05.» 

Xarragiiagiis  3ii7. 

New  York  48,  329. 

rassaiiia(p;'Hldy  32*2. 

i'eiioh,sc,ot  3'J2,  310, 

.St.  All'M-.s  205. 
Bay  View,  Mass.  247. 
Bearcan.p,  N.  H.  220, 
Be(;kct,  Mass.  143. 
Beeeher's  Falls,  N.  H,  232. 
Beech  Mt.,  Me.  300. 
Belii.ertown,  Mass.  100. 
Belfast.  Mc.  317- 
Belgrade,  Me.  309. 
Bellows  Falls,  Vt.  104,  181. 
Beheil  Mt.,  Can.  208. 
Bennington,  Vt.  180 
Berkshire  Hills  142. 
Berkshire    Soda    »Si>rings, 

Mass.  152. 
Berlin,  Coun.  140. 
Berlin  Falls,  X.  H.  229. 
Bernardston,  Mass.  104. 
Berry  I'oikI,  Mass.  145. 
Bethel,  Me.  288. 
Bethel,  Vt.  200. 
Betldeheni,  X.  II.  234. 
'JeN->vlv,  Mass.  245,  250. 
liiiidef'ord.  .Me.  200,  283. 
Billerica,  Mass.  189. 
Billingtoii  Sea  53. 
Biniiinghani,  Conn.  111. 
Black  River  Falls  105,  181 


niack  Rock,  Conn.  85. 
Blackstone,  Mass.  93. 
Bla.k well's  Id.,  N.  Y.  47. 
Block  Id.,  U.  I.  71. 
Blnixlv  Brook,  Mass.  102. 
inne  Hill,  Ma.ss.  02. 
Blue  Hill,  Me.  .303. 
Boar's  Head,  X.  H.  262. 
B.dtoii  Falls,  Vt.  204. 
Bolton  Notch,  Conn.  94. 
l5<dton,  X.  Y.  3.50. 
Boone  Id.,  Me.  207. 
Boothbav,  Me.  2-)0. 
Boscawen,  X.  H.  197. 
Boston,  Mass.  5. 

Atlienanm  17 

tlathedial  20. 

Christ  Chundi  10. 

City  Hall  11. 

Cf)mnion  15. 

Cojip's  Hi"  0. 

Custom  H   ii.;e  iO. 

Faneiiil  Hall  10 

First  Cliiin  ;i  10. 

Horticultural  Hall  13. 

Hospital  10. 

King's  (Tiapcl  13. 

Masonic  Temple  12. 

Mu.seuiii  15, 

Music  Hall  1.3. 

Natural  History    Build- 
ing 16. 

Nt  «•  I'ost-omce  12. 

Odil  Fellows  Hall  19. 

Old  South  Church  11. 

Old  State  Hoii.se  10. 

I'uhlicCardens  10. 

Public  Library  12. 

State  House  17. 

U.  S.  Court  Hou.so  13. 
Boston  Light  23. 
Boterberg,  X.  Y.  345. 
Bowerb.Kik.Me.  205. 
Bowdoiii  College  310. 
Boxiord,  M:iss.  270. 
Bradford,  .Mass.  280. 
Bradford,  N,  II.  190 
Braintree,  Mass.  38. 
Braintree,  Vt.  200. 


w 


388 


INDEX. 


i    ' 


■(        ! 


(i 


I 


1; 


5- 

.  ii 

rit 

: ! 

Hi-iViKlon.  Vt.  182. 
IJranfnnl,  Conn-  7fi. 
Jiitttlehoro',  Vt    103. 
Jin-akncck  Hill  -.VUk 
Hn'wster,  Mass.  5(). 
Hricl^v'poH,  Oiiin.  85,  ill. 
IJri(lK<'\vat'T,  Mas.s.  54, 
Rri-l-t(.ii,  -Mf.  -.W). 
liridporl,  Vt.  1H4. 
l{ri;,'lit<.ii,  Mass,  iW,  124. 
]{riiii«i('l(l,  Ma.ss.  K^O. 
Hiislol,  Me.  2'.)'.». 
liri.^tc.l.  N.  11.  lOS. 
llristnl,  K.  I.  (in. 
Mristol,  Vt.  1S4. 
JJrookficM,  Conn.  114. 
l?n.ok(l,'l(l,  Ma.ss.  ISO. 
15r(i<>klliio,  Mass.  85. 
IJrodklyii,  Conn.  118. 
HiooklVn.  N.  V.  48.  339. 

Citv  Hall,  :;:W. 

fyi-ii'ss  Hills  :mO. 

CiiTonvvi.dd  IMH, 

Navv  Vard  -.'.'.VJ. 

Pio.siioctrarU;i;}0. 
r>i-o\vnfiel<l,  Mf.  ;.S5. 
I'.rown  Uiiivcrsitv  (54. 
iiniiiswick,  Me.  21»7.  ."^OO. 
Hrvaiifs  Poiid,  Mc  288. 
15(iVklaii(l,  M.'.ss.  170. 
UinksiiiJit,  Vi'.  ;U8, 
Hunker  Hi'-,  'J5. 
|}urlin<;t(.n,  Vt.  184,  365. 
Hnrnhain,  Me.  .'{14. 
J5urnsi(lc,  Conn   04. 
15ntlcrini!k  Falls,  N.Y.  ^44. 
]5nxtiui,  Mo.  L>13. 
Uuz/ards  Bay  58,  02. 

Caconiia.  Can.  385. 
<"alais.  Me.  322. 
Caldwt'li,  N.  Y.  357. 
Canibridt^'c.  Mass.  20. 
Canalcn,  Me.  317. 
Caint'rsIiunipMt.,  Vt.  203. 
Canifl's  Hi'-'ii  Mt.,Mc.2S0. 
Caiiil.o  lio.      Id.,  N.  B.322. 
Caiiiiiton,  N.  11.  212. 
<"anaan,  Conn.  1 15. 
Canaan.  N.  11    108. 
Canton,  Mass.  (>2. 
I'anton.  Me.  2.S7. 
Cap  Hou4(\  Can.  383. 
(.' ip  TouniM'nto,  Can.  .385. 
Cajio  Ann,  245. 

Cod  51. 

F.li/alu'th,  Mo.  273. 

Ktoinitv,  Can.  38(5. 

Noddick,  Mo.  2()7. 

Torpoiso,  M<:.  208. 

Hosier,  Me.  303. 

Trinity,  Can.  380. 
Carolina,  R.  I.  70. 


Cafoo  Bay  274. 
Ca^tine.  Me.  302,  317. 
Ca.-tlo  Id.,  Mas.s.  22. 
Ca>lloton.  Vt.  Ih7. 
Cathodra!  Rook  224. 
Cat  skill  Mts.,  N.  Y.  347. 
Ciw\  Arlin;_'ton  185. 

Clarendon  182. 

Eor.sot  18,5. 

S  ilisl.urv  123. 
Codarnioro,  L.  I.  340. 
Centre  Harbor,  N.  H.  21(). 
(.'lialioiiakoiigkonion    Lake 

104. 
Clianddy,  Can.  20S. 
(.'lianiplain,  I  akc  ,UH. 
(,'liailoinont.  Mass.  170. 
(.'liarlcslMinrfi,  Can.  .■'.S4. 
Charles  Id.,  Conn.  S4. 
Charlostovn,  Mass,  21. 
Cliailostown,  X.  11.  1(15. 
Cliatoan  IJiRot,  Can.  3.st. 
jChatean  Richer,  vlan.  .".X5. 
Ichathani,  X.  V.  142. 
|(;iiaudi(ie  F.ills  ;5S:{. 
jCliPlsoa,  Mass.  27,  249. 
jCliosliirP,  Conn.  100. 
Cliesliire,  Mas^t.  1.53. 
Chester,  VC  U,l. 
Chest.Tlield.N.  II.  10:t,  ISO. 
Chestnut  Hill.  .Mas:i.  ;/■ 
Chesnii 'ook  Lake,  200. 
CliiioiKo,  M.iss.  157. 
Cliieoutinii,  C  '".  380. 
China,  Me.  313. 
Chocorua,  Mt.  214.  215,  221. 
ClarenioJit,  X,  li.  107. 
Clai.Midon  Springs  182,  187. 
Clear  .Str;-i!a  .Meadows244. 
Clermont.  N.  Y.  347. 
Clinton,  Mass.  105.  120. 
Clinton,  Mt.  235. 
C'ohasset,  JMass.  48. 
Coho.s,  X.  Y.  350. 
Coleliester.  VL  204. 
C^>lu  yi>ri-.i!,',  N.  Y.  345. 
C.dehrook.  X.  H.  243,  289. 
Cokraine  G-irge  178. 
Collinsviile,  Conn.  109. 
Coli;nd)ia  SjtrinKs  •'>48. 
Concord,  Mass.  28. 
Con(  i>rd,  X.  H.  104. 
Coney  Id.,  X.  Y.  340. 
Conneotiei't  Lake  245. 
;Contooi-o(!k  Lak(!  ISO. 
iCunway,  X.  H.  214. 
iConway  .Inne..  Mo.  208. 
!Copi»le  Crown  Mt.  218. 
Cornwall,  Conn.  115. 
Cot  nit  I'oit,  Mass.  5'. 
Cranston,  H.  I.  05. 
Crawford  House  230.  235. 
jCrotou  River,  X.  Y.  343. 


Crown   Point,   N.  Y.   183. 

.304. 
Crovdon,  N.  H.  107. 
Crvst,ilCasea<le,  X.  II.  227. 
Crystal  Lake,  Vt.  171. 
Cnuiniiiigton,  Mass.  110. 
C>ishin{,''s  Id  ,  Me.  274. 
Cuttyluink  Id.,  Ma.ss.  02. 

Dalton,  Mass.  144. 
Dalton,  X.  II.  212. 
l);unaris''otta,  Mo.  209. 
D.anlinry,  Conn.  116. 
Danielsonville,  Conn.  118. 
jltanviMo,  Can.  2'.)0. 
I  Danville  .Innc,  .Me.  2^7. 
Dartmouth  CoUoffo  100. 
Dartnionth,  Mass.  02. 
Daysvillo.  (!onn.  118. 
'DeUee,  X.  IL  :;2,3. 
Dedham,  Ma.ss.  117. 
D<  crlield  (iorge  178. 
Deerlield,  Mass.  103. 
Deer  Id..  .Mass.  20. 
Dee,  Islo,  Me.  3(i3. 
Denmark.  Mo.  285. 
Derby,  Cmn.  111. 
Dorry,  X.  II.  270. 
Devil's  D.mee  Chamber  346 
Dexter.  Mo.  205. 
jiiaiudnd  Id.,  Ale.  274. 
Diamond  Id.,  X.  II.  217. 
Diamond  Li.,  X.  Y.  358. 
;Di-htoii,  Mass.  30. 
iDix  Id  ,  Mo.  :;01,  332. 
Dixvillo  Xotch,  X.  H.  243. 
iDobbs'  Kerrv,  X.  Y.  342 
Dome  Id.,  X.  Y.  '-iaO. 
!  Dorchester,  Mass.  30. 
'Double  Heach,  Coini.  77. 
Dover,  .Me.  '205. 
i  Dover,  X.  H.  28L 
|Dnck  Id.,  X.  H.  2(56. 
jDunderberg,  X'.  Y.  ,';43. 
Dnnmoro  Lake,  Vt.  183. 
Durham,  X.  II.  281. 
Du-xbiuy,  Mass.  50. 

EauloClitr,  X.  II.  239. 

Eagle  Lake,  Mo.  ,'i05. 

E.  Andover,  X.  H.  198. 

E.  Hartford,  Conn.  04. 
jE.  H.iven.  ("onn.  77. 

E,  Rock.  ('onn.  83. 

Eastern    'I'ownships,    Can. 
174. 

E.istham,  Mass.  50. 

Easthampton,  Mass.  110. 

East  port,  .Me.  322. 

Echo  Lakes,  225,  238, 
lEd^rartown,  Mass.  00. 

I'v^'romont.  Mass.  153. 
I  Elgin  spring,  Vt   184. 


t,   N.  Y.   183. 

II.  107. 

kIc.  N.  H.  227. 
',  Vt.  171. 
I,  Mass.  110. 
,  Mf.  ii74. 
(I,,  Mass.  1»2. 

s.  144. 

I.  212. 

;i,  Me.  2".t0. 

mil.  116. 

li',  Conn.  lis. 

II.  2'. ID. 

ic.  Me.  287. 
'ollcgc  160. 
M;iss.  '.»2. 
mil.  118. 
.  :!23. 
LSS.  117. 
rge  17S. 
ass.  163. 
iss.  20. 
('.  :Ht3. 
.'.  28j. 
1.  111. 
.  27l». 

t:Cliaiijber346 
2!tu. 

.,  Me.  274. 
.,  N.  II.  217. 
[.,  N.  Y.  35S. 
ss.  3S>. 

01,  1132. 

h,  N.  H.  243. 
N.  Y.  342 

Y.  SJil. 

ass.  36. 
II,  Omii.  77. 
I'.t.O. 

281. 

1 1 .  2(56. 

Y.  :;i3. 
vt.  1S3. 
1.  281. 
iss.  50. 


.N. 


VI 


II.  239. 

i\  .'iOS. 
N.  If.  H)S. 
Omii.  1*4. 
nil.  77. 
II.  83. 
iisliiiis.    Can. 


Hs.  56. 

Mass 

322. 

!2J,  238. 
lass.  60. 
ISS.  153. 

Vt    184. 


110. 


Elliot,  Mc.  268. 
Kllsworth.  Mf.  318. 
Kntii'ld,  ('oiiii.  133. 
Enfielfl,  N.  II.  1!».S. 
Km-1.'\v,)0(I,  N.  J.  341. 
Knvl,  N.  H.  244,  2S!). 
Essex  .June,  Vt.  204. 
Esspx.  Mass.  2.")7. 
I'/ssex,  N.  Y.  365. 
Kv.-rett,  Mas.s.  240, 
Exeter,  N.  II.  280. 

Fabvan  House,  N.  li.  233, 

234. 
Fairfax.  Vt.  204. 
Fairtlelil,  Conn.  86, 
Fairhaven,  Conn.  S3. 
Fairliaveii,  Mass.  01. 
Fairliaveii,  Vt.  188. 
Faiiiee,  Vt.  168. 
Fall  Iliver,  Mass.  39, 
Falls.  Artists'  22.5. 
Falls  Villa;.,'e,  Conn.  115, 

l?asli  IJisli  122,  153, 

IkTlin  220. 

Blaek  Itiver  165,  181. 

Bolton  204. 

(.  liauilioie  383. 

15  Mile  IGO. 

Foxw.'irs  283. 

Gi'uiv'eaniia  211. 

(;il)hs's  232. 

(ilen  Kills  227. 

tJlfiis  356. 

Goodrich  225. 

(iraii'l  323,  38.'j. 

(iiand  Mei"  374. 

lloiisatonii'  1 1.5. 

.laek.soii226. 

Livennoie  210. 

Lower  Aiiinionoosuc  233 

Moiitmorenci  384. 

Nortfm's  122. 

Rmiiford  288. 

Saeo  260. 

8er>'\v  Allien  280. 

Shawaiie^'an  374. 

Kte.  Anne  381. 

St.  Fereol  385. 

iSutherlaiid  182. 

Thompson's  220. 

Turner's  178. 

Yantie  96. 
Falmouth,  Mass.  58. 
Farminifton,  Conn.  109. 
Faiinini,'ton,  .Me.  201. 
Farmington,  N.  If.  282. 
Ferrisbui'Lih,  Vt.  184. 
FislHT's  Id.,  N.  Y.  73. 
Fislierville,  N.  H.  107. 


INDEX. 


norenee,  ^fass.  110,  160. 
Flume,  ths,  N'.  H.  240. 
I'liime,  the,  Vt.  171. 
Flushing,',  E.  I.  47,  340. 
Forest  Hills,  35. 
Fort  .\mi,  N'.  Y.  356. 

Clinton    N*.  Y.  344. 

Edward,  N.  Y.  355. 

Fairfield,  Me.  323 

Halifax,  .Me.  314. 

Hill,  C<mn.  72. 

Kent,  Mo.  324. 

Lee,  N.  Y.  311. 

Mass.aehusetts  1.56. 

.M«>iitu">iiiery(new)  2ii7. 

Moiit^'oinerv  (oil)  344. 

Point,  Me.  :!17. 

Preble,  Me.  274. 

Tieonderoi^a  183,  ;;62. 

Warren,  Mass.  23. 

Wushiii>,'ton,  N.  Y.  341. 

■\Villiaiii  Henry  :!50. 

■NVoostei-,  Conn.  83. 
14-Mih-  III..  N,  Y.  350. 
^Foxcroi't,  .Me.  205. 
j  Franiin.irham,  Alass,  126. 
Fraiieestnwii,  N.  H.  102. 
Franrniiia  Mts.  238. 
Franklin,  Mass.  1 17. 
Franklin,  Mt.  2:'.6. 
Franldiii,  N.  M.  107. 
Frederieto..    N.  B.  319. 
Frei'port.  Me.  300. 
Fresh  Pond.  .Mass.  34. 
Fryuburg,  Me.  285. 


Ga-^etown,  N.  13.  320, 
iOardiner,  .Me.  311. 
Gardner,  Mass.  177. 
Garnet  Pools,  N.  II.  227. 
Gaspee  Point,  U.  I.  65. 
Gay  H(M<1,  Mass.  60. 
Geor/oaiina  Falls,  241. 
(ieor;,'e.  Lake  357. 
Geor^'etown,  Mass.  270. 
Georj,'etown,  Me.  207. 
Geor;,'eville,  Can.  173. 
Georj,'ia,  Vt   204. 
fii.mt's  (irave.  \.  II.  233. 
Gibbs'  Falls.  N.  H.  232. 
(;ilead.  Me.  22s,  2s0. 
Cilenburii,  M'-.  316. 
Glen  Ellis  Falls,  N.  II.  227, 
Glen  House,  N'.  H.  226.  2.35 
(Jleiis  Falls,  \.  Y.  3.J6. 
tllouei'ster,  Mass.  245. 
Goodriel,   Falls.  \.  H.  225 
(Jorhani.  Me.  213. 
Gorham,  N.  H.  227,  2S9. 
G()Vern(U'*s  Id.,  Mass.  20. 


389 

'Granbv,  Conn.  piO. 
iGrand  Falls,  N.  P.  323.385. 
(iiaiid  .Meiian  Id.  322. 
(Jrand  Wehoodie  Lake  319. 
(Jiaiiville,  Vt   2!)0. 
(Jreat  Parriir^ton  152. 
Great  Falls,  N.  II.  213. 
(ireat  Gulf,  N.  II.  2:!5. 
Great  Head,  Me,  :i()4. 
(IreeiilieM  Hill,  Conn.  S\j. 
Greenlielil,  Mass.  177. 
Greenlan.l,  N.  II.  263. 
Green  Mt ,  Me.  3o."). 
(Jreen  Ml    ,  Vt.  182,  100. 
Greenville,  .Me.  206. 
Gi''«iiwieh,  Conn.  80. 
Cii'  fuwieh.  II    I.  67. 
Guylock,  Mass.  1.53. 
Grotoii,  Conn.  72,  73. 
Grotoii,  Mass.  105. 
GiottJii,  Vt.  160. 
(iroiit's  Corner,  Mass.  177. 
Grove  Hall,  .Mass.  36. 
Guilford,  Conn.  76. 

Haddani,  Conn.  lo6. 
Hadlev,  .Ma.s.s.  161. 
Ha-'|,r,  N.  Y.  36t. 
Ha  Ha  Ba^-,  Can.  3><6. 
Haley's  b'..  Me.  266, 
llallowi'.i,  Me.  311. 
Htnide  i    Conn.  PH. 
Ilamilt    11.  Mass.  257. 
Hanii"  (  n.  Me.  318 
Hamp  Oh.  X.  H   262. 

Be."    h  262. 

Fa  .s  261. 
Ha'  over,  X.  H.  166. 
H   rpswell.  Me.  275. 
I  arrison,  .Me.  2S5. 
lartfonl,  Conn.  131. 

.\tlieinenm  137. 

Cedar  (Irove  139. 

Chun  lies  135. 

Old  8tatc  House  136. 

State  House  135. 
Harvard,  Mass.  105. 
Ilaivanl  University  29. 
Harvvieh,  Mass.  56. 
iHastiMgs-on-IIudso:i  342. 
iHatli.'l.l,  Mass.  162. 
iHaveiliill.  .Mass.  279. 
Haverhill,  X.  H.  211. 
Haverstraw,  X.  Y.  3^3. 
Ha/ardville,  Conn.  133. 
Hebron,  X.  II.  108. 
11. 11  Gate,  X.  Y.  47. 
lluh-ate  S|.rin-s,  Vt.  2o7. 
lii_dil,in.l  Li-ht  57. 
Hi-'Idaii  1.^,  the  .343. 


Fislikill-Hn-the-Hndson.345  Governor's  ld.,X.Y.  329,  48.  Ilill.l)oro  Briil-e  190. 


FiPhlx 


irtr 


M; 


176. 


Fitzwilliani,  X.  H.  180. 


Grafton,  .Mass.  126, 
Grafton,  N.  H.  108. 


Hiu^^hani,  Mass.  21. 
Hinsdale,  Mass.  141' 


390 


INDEX. 


■1 


J' 


I'' 


I] 


! 

f 


Hinsdale,  N  H.  102. 
Hiram,  Mc.  285. 
lloboki'ii,  N,  J.  341. 
Ilolbrooli,  Mass.  54. 
II.fKl.'nif'ss,  N.  H.  210. 
Hullis,  N.  H.  10«. 
Holmes'  Holi-,  Mnss.  50,  60. 
H"lvt»k(',  Mas.s.  1;'.S. 
Huoksct,  N.  11.  I!i4. 
Ihx'Siu,"  TiiMiiel  1j4,  170. 
Hoii|K!r.  tli(!  157. 
HouKli's  Neck,  Mass.  37. 
Houltoii,  Me.  323. 
Hiibbardtoii.  Vt.  187. 
Hiulson,  N.  Y.  348. 
Hull,  Mass   23. 
llyaiini.s,  Mass.  56. 
Hyde  Park,  N.  Y.  346, 

Indian  Harbor,  Conn.  89. 

Lorettc,  Can.  3S4, 

Nc(;k,  Conn.  77. 

R<Hk.  Mf>.  2U2. 
Iimlcsidc,  Mass.  153. 
loiia  Id.,  N.  Y.  344. 
Ipswich,  Mass.  257. 
Irasbiu-h,  Vt.  171. 
Irvin^ton,  N.  Y.  342. 
Island  Pond,  Vt.  29(). 
Isian.l.  Bla.  kw.dl's  47. 

IJluck  71. 

IJoone  207. 

IJiiKadicr  M7- 

Campo  Hello  322. 

Casth;  22. 

Cniarlt's,  Conn.  84. 

t."onani<-ut  40. 

(]onoy  3 10, 

Constitution  345. 

Contintiiital  205. 

Cran'.'  3*^'>. 

Crugor's  347. 

C'.isliin.tr's  274. 

Ciittyhuuk  92. 

Deer  20. 

nia-.non.;.  Me.  274. 

Diamond.  .V.  H.  217. 

Diamond,  N'.  Y.  :ioS. 

Tioim-,  N.  Y.  350. 

Dnston's  197. 

Fishfir's  73. 

Coat  40. 

(ioc.iSl'  '{85. 

(Irand  M.  nan  322. 
ticnriiiitr'H,  Mass.  2(1. 
(iov.'rnor  H.  >f.  H.  215. 
lloviTHor's,  N.  Y.  320. 
Orossi'  385. 
loiia  344. 
l,<Mm,  Masrt.  23. 
Loii-jf,  N.  H.  217. 
Long.  N.  Y.  330. 
1.'  well  256. 


Martha's  Vineyard  59. 

Monliei,'an  316. 

Monnt  Desert  303.      ' 

Mystic  72. 

Nantucket  00. 

Nanslion  02. 

Neutral  322. 

No  Man's  Land  59. 

Orr's  207. 

Prak's,  Me.  274. 

I'l'Mfijueese  02. 

Plum,  Mass.  260. 

Prudence  06. 

Rainsford's  23. 

Rieluse  350. 

Rhode  40. 

Rifliiuoiid  270. 

Staj^'c  208. 

St-aen  340. 

'< '  1  Cher's  247. 

T'ompson's  22, 

Nulcour,  Vt.  307. 

Vinalhaven  316. 

Ward's  3;i'.t. 

Wctniore  317. 

I'lhzabtth  02. 

St.  (Icorj^e's  o<d, 

Tliimolc  76. 
Isle  an:;  Condres  3S5. 

Deer,  Me.  303. 

Crand.  Vt.  307. 

of  (Jrleans  3S5. 

St.  Helens'  .370, 
Isies  of  Shoals  205. 
Ivy  Mt.,  Conn.  115 

Ja<kson,  N.  H.  22.5. 
JaflVey.  N.  H.  170. 
.Jamaica,  I..  I.  340. 
.Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.  35. 
.lav.  Mc.  201. 
.Jcifcison  Hill,  N.  H.  220. 
Jctlcrsou,  Mt.  '2'M>. 
Jone.-,poit,  Me.  .''/<»7. 
.Ionian's  Pond,  Me.  .304, 

Katalidin,  Mt..  .Vfe.  297. 
Ke.irsar^.  ,  Mt.  i08. 
Keene,  N.  H.  180. 
Kcnnobunk,  .Mc.  -JfiH. 
Kenit(diinikport  268. 
Kent,  ("onn.  1 14. 
Kiarsai-e,  .Mt.  224. 
KillinLdv,  Coim.  1  !S. 
Killill'-Tnil   P,.;,k,  Vt.  182. 

Killiit-wort!'.  Conn,  70. 
Kimlcrhool .  N.  V.  ;'>!.':>, 
Kin-  o  .Vft..  Mc.  •_'%. 
KiU'^ticld,  M>-   2'.'2. 
Kin-ston,  ,N'.  V.  3ir. 
KiuKstfMi,  R.  f.  07. 
Kittcry,  .Me.  205. 
Kiiowltoii's  Landing  173. 


Lachine  Rapids  372. 
Laeonia,  N.  H.  200. 
Lafayette,  Mt.  230. 
Lake  Ashley,  Mass.  145. 

Aylmer,  Can.  200 

R.'auport,  Can.  384. 

Romaseen,  Vt.  187. 

Cliaboiiakon<:;konion  104. 

Cliamplain  301. 

Clicsuncook,  Me.  206. 

China,  Me.  313. 

Coutoocook,  N.  H.  180. 

Crystal,  Vt.  171. 

Dnnniore,  Vt.  183. 

Echo  (Conway)  22.5. 

E(  ho  (Franconia)  238. 

Enfield,  N.  H.  108. 

Geor},'e.  N.  Y.  .3.57. 

Gru.id  Sclioodie  319. 

Heart,  N.  11.  108. 

Lontr,  Conn.  113. 

Lon^',  Me.  285. 

Luzerne,  N.  Y.  35.5. 

Mnhkccnac,  Mass.  150. 

Mas.sabesic,  N.  H.  103. 

Mas.sawijijii,  (an.  174. 

Mcmi.hrcmajioi,'  171. 

MerrynicctinK  210. 

M><(!schead  204,  205 

.'•jvfouu<l,  N.  H.  108. 

•  1  Seven  Isles  323. 

Onota,  Ma.ss.  145. 

O.ssipcc,  N.  H.  220. 

Pontoosuc,  Mass.  145. 

Profile,  N.  H.  230. 

QTunsi^;iniond  120, 

Rockland,  N.  Y.  343. 

Saltonstall,  t^.'onn.  77. 

St.  Catharine,  Vt   LSS. 

St.  Charles.  Can.  384. 

St.  Joat'hin,  Can.  38,5. 

St.  John,  Can.  380. 
I     St.  I'ctc;  374. 
I     Scbaj;(>,  Me.  284. 
j     SinnipiiOv.  N.  Y.  314. 

Si'cctaclc  (Ponds)  114. 

Si|Ham,  N.  H.  216, -217. 

Sunaiuo.  N.  II.  106. 

Twin,  Conn.  123. 

UmbaK<i,«  244.  280. 

VillaKe,  N.  H.  209. 

Waukawan  2o9. 

Wcnliam  2.')('>. 
1     Willou-ltby,  Vt.  170. 
!     WiiMicpcsankee  215,  82. 
jLaKcville.  Cotni.  122. 
|LakevilIe,  Mass.  .54. 
;  Lancaster,  Mass.  ?05. 
:  Lancaster.  N.  H.  212, 
'Lancsboro,    >' ,-,-;    ]',?. 
iLam'sv'Me,  .'jI.is:-    ii', . 
jLawri  M.-c,  .V,;-  -.  2?''. 
ilA'.Hd  Muie  L\'i  ,"('  2iS. 


INDEX. 


391 


y 


Lclannn,  Cnnn.  OS. 
I/b.iiKMi,  \.  If.  lo;). 
I,((l-(>s,  the,  N.  II.  '2-li. 
Leeds.  Mo.  '2!)1. 
Lc.\  .Mass.  148. 
I,,p(|s,  .Mass.  110. 
Liiiiiiixville,  Can.  174,  290, 
I,ciiox,  Mass.  147. 
Lfv.Tf'tt,  Mass.  102. 
Lcvvistoii,  Me.  .'iOS. 
l,rxiiii;foii,  Mas.s.  28. 
|,fy(l<'ii  Gorge  178. 
Lincoln,  Mass.  175. 
Lisbon  Kails,  Mc.  201. 
Litclifit'M,  Conn.  112. 
Littleton,  N.  II.  21J. 
Livennore  Falls,  N.  II.  210, 
Liveniiore,  Me,  201. 
Loiulon(l(;iTy,  N.  II.  270. 
Lung  lirancii,  N.  J.  :ilO. 
Lung  M.,  Can.  17.'5. 
Long  M.,  Ma.ss.  23. 
Long  Id.,  N.  11.  217. 
Long  I.L,  N.  Y.  3:]i». 
Long  Lake,  Conn.  113. 
Long  Lake,  Mc.  2S.'j. 
Longnicidow,  Mass.  133. 
Loiignenil,  Can.  .'$7;i. 
Lon.sdale,  R.  I.  03. 
Lovell,  Me.  287. 
Lowell  Id  ,  Mass.  2.JG. 
Lowell.  Mass.  180. 
Ludlow,  Vt.  181. 
Lunenbnrg,  Vt.  212. 
Lyme,  Conn.  7."). 
I.vme,  N.  II.  107. 
I.yndeborongh,  N.  II.  192. 
Lyndon,  Vt.  170. 
Lynn,  Mass.  250. 

Maehi.is,  Me.  307. 
Madawaska,  Me.  324. 
Madison,  .Mt.  230. 
Madrid,  Me.  202. 
Magalloway  River  214,  280. 
Magnolia,  Mass.  247. 
Magffg,  Can.  173. 
Maine  Fore,st,  the  323. 
Malbaic,  Can.  385. 
M.iiden,  Mass.  275. 
Mallefs  13av,  Vt.  204. 
Maiuaroneek,  N.  V.  90. 
.Mauehester,  Conn.  04. 
Manchester,  Mass.  245. 
Manchester,  N.  H.  103. 
Maiiehester,  Vt.  185. 
Manhattanville,  N.  Y.  341. 
Manslield.  Conn.  9".». 
Manstield,  Mt.,  VL  203. 
Miirbkd.eaa,  Mass.  255, 
Marlilehead  Neek,  256. 
Marion,  Mass.  CI. 
Marlboro,  Mass,  126. 


Marshfleld,  Mass.  40. 
Mai^tlipee,  Mass.  50. 
.Martha's  Vineyard  59. 
Masha Jiang  Lake  118. 
Matta]M.i,sctt,  Ma.ss.  54. 
Maftawand.eag,  Me.  310. 
.Me.\dain  Jnnc.,  N.  B.  310, 
.Melndoes  Falls,  VL  100. 
Median!. •  Falls.  Me.  287. 
.Me<ltielil,  Mas.s.  120. 
Medtord.  Ma.ss.  275. 
Megnnticook  Mts.  317. 
Me'rose,  ALass.  275. 
Meredith,  N.  IL  200. 
Mcriden,  Conn.  140. 
Merrynn-eting  Lake  210. 
■Metlnien.  Ma.ss,  270. 
I.Mlddli'boro,  M/iss.  5L 
iMiddlebiirv,  Vt.  183. 
LMiddle.sex,'Ma.s.s.  101. 
iMi.ldlesex,  Vt  202. 
iMiddletown,  Conn.  100. 
.Middletown    Sjirings,    Vt. 

1S,S. 
Milan,  X.  H.  289, 
Millord,  Coini.  84. 
Milford.  Me.  310. 
.Milford,  N.  IL  102. 
Millerton,  N.  Y.  121. 
.Milton,  N.  H.  213. 
.Milton,  Vt.  204. 
Miiiot's  Ledge,  Mass.  49. 
Missisqnoi  Springs  200. 
Mohegan,  Conn.  08. 
Moiiadnoek  Mt.,  N.  H.  170. 
Monadiiock  ML,  VL  243. 
Monhegan  Id.,  Me.  310. 
Monkton.  Vt.  184. 
Monroe  Mt.  230. 
Monson,  Me.  90. 
Monson,  Mass.  205. 
Montague,  Mass.  177. 
Montnioninei  Falls  384. 
Montptdier,  Vt.  200. 
.Montreal,  Can.  201,  308. 

Around  the  Mt.  372. 

Bonseeours  Market  370. 

Champ  de  Mars  .370. 

Christ  Church  Catliedral 
371. 

Gesi'i,  Church  of  tlie  371. 

Gray  Nunnery  372. 

Lachiue  Rapids  372. 

McCill  College  371. 

Notre  Dame  300. 

81.  George  372. 

St.  Patrick  371. 

Victoria  Hridge  373. 

Victoria  .Suuare  300. 
Monunient  Mt.,  Mass.  151. 
Moo.se  Chasm,  Me.  280. 
Moonehcad  Lake  204,  296. 
MooselA)cuiaguntic  29i 


Moosilauke  ML   N.  11.  211. 
Moriah,  Mt.,  N.  H.  22S. 
.Morris,  Conn.  1 13. 
Moultonlmro,  N.  II.  210. 
Mount  Adams,  N.  il.  230. 

.Kolus,  Vt.  180. 

Againenti(  us,  Me.  207. 

Annanancfi,  Vt.  170. 

Anthony,  Vt.  ISO. 

Ascutncy,  Vt.  10(>. 

Auburn  Cemetery  33. 

Raid,  N.  11.239. 

Helknap,  N.  H.  200,  219. 

Carmel,  Conn.  los. 

Chocorua,  N.  II.  214,  221. 

Clinton,  N.  II.  2.3.5. 

Cro'-Nest,  N.  Y.  345. 

Desert,  Me.  .303. 

Dundeiberg,  N.  Y.  343, 

Klcplia  itis.  Can.  173. 

Fiiuim  X,  Vt.  18.'i. 

Everett,  Mass.  1.52. 

Franklin,  N.  H.  2.30. 

(irevlock,  Mass.  153. 

Hayes,  N.  II.  228. 

Iloiyoke.  Ma.ss.  100. 

Hopkins  157. 

Hope,  R.  I.  m. 

IL^r,  VL  170. 

Independencp,  Vt.  .363, 

Jeirerson  236. 

Katahdin,  Me.  207,  319. 

Kear.sarge,  N.  II.  108. 

Kiarsarge,  N.  U.  224, 

Kilburn  105. 

Kineo  200. 

Lafayette.  N.  H.  239. 

Madison  230. 

Major,  N.  H.  218. 

Mansti.dd,  Vt.  20,3. 

Megnnticook,  Me.  317. 

Monarlnock    N.  H.  179. 

-Monadnoek,  Vt.  243. 

Monroe  230. 

Monument,  Mass.  151. 

Moosilauke.  N.  XL  211, 

Moriah,  N.  II.  228. 

Noiu>tuek,  Ma.ss.  100. 

<)s."ipee,  N.  H.  210,  220. 

Owl's  Head,  Can.  172. 

Owl's  Held,  N.  H.  211. 

I'assacoiiaway  220. 

PiiUKK  h',  Can.  174. 

Pinnacle,  N.  H.  194. 

Pleasant,  Me.  285. 

Pleasant,  N.  II.  236, 

Prolile,  N.  H.  239. 

Prosjiect.  (Jonn.  11.5. 

Prospect,  N,  H.  210. 

Pidaski,  VL  1G3. 

Ragged,  N.  II.  198. 

Riga,  Conn.  121. 

Ruuillard,  Cun.  290. 


n 


■I 


r 


392 


INDEX. 


«;» 


8tc  Anne,  Can.  SS5. 

!Sf.  Vinrpiit,  N.  Y.  :54l. 

Hu^ar  lioal,  Mass.  lOL'. 

Siiri)ris.;,  N.  II.  228. 

Tabor,  Vt.  18'). 

Tohy,  Mass.  102. 

Tom,  Cniin.  li;i. 

Tom,  Mass.  HiO. 

Tom,  Vt.  IW. 

V.nioii,  N.  II.  102. 

Wiiiitastiquot  10.'}. 

Wasliiii},'ton,  Mass.  152. 

AVasliington,  N.  II.  2:'A. 
Ascent     fiom     Ciaw- 

ford's  ^.'i.O. 
Ascent  from    Goiliam 

23(5. 
Carriaj^e-road  235, 
Railway  234. 
View  2.37. 

AVhitcfaco,    N.    II.  220, 

Willaid,  N.  n.  231. 
Mountains,  Adirondack  305 

Allagash  323. 

Berkshire  142. 

C,'at:-kill  347. 

Dixvillo  243. 

Franeonia  238. 

(Jroen  1.S2- ISO,  199-204, 

Helderher','  348. 

lliKldan.ls  343,  .344. 

Laurentian  :'.7S,  3S5. 

Lnnenourg  212. 

Magalloway  •2\'>. 

Jlcgunticook  317. 

I'ilot  212. 

«and\vitli  220. 

iShawuiigniik  346. 

White  221. 
Murray  Bay,  Can.  3S5. 
Myrieks,  Mass.  54. 
Mystic,  Conn.  72. 
Mystic  Bond  1S9. 

Vahant,  Mass.  21. 
*Vantasket  Beach  23. 
Nantneket  60. 
Naples,  Me.  284. 
Narragansett  Bay  65. 
Narragaiisett  Fort  6'.». 
Narragansett  Bier  OS. 
Naslina,  N.  11.  1'.>1. 
Natiek.  Ma.ss.  124. 
Natiind  Bridge  154. 
Nangatuek,  Conn.  111. 
Nauslion  Id.  !t2. 
Newark.  Vt.  171. 
New  Bedford,  Mass.  90. 
New  Britain,  Conn.  95. 
Newburg,  N.  Y.  345. 
Newbury,  Vt.  168. 
Ncwburyport,  Mass.  258. 
Newcastle,  Me.  299, 


Newfound  Lake  198. 
New  (Jloueest<r,  Me.  287. 
New  Hartford.  Conn.  120. 
New  Haven,  Conn.  77,  141 

Art  Gallery  81. 

Cemetery  78. 

Ka.st  Uoek  83. 

Bublic  Green  79. 

Savin  Uoek  83, 

Slate  llousi;  SO. 

West  Roek  S3, 

Yale  College  SO. 
New  ITaveii,  Vt.  1R4. 
New  I>ebaiion  Springs  146. 
New  London,  Conn.  72. 
Newmarket,  N.  II,2(i7,  2S1. 
New  Marlboro,  Mass.  2.02. 
New  Milford,  C(jiin.  114. 
Newport,  Me.  .".14 
Newjiort,  R.  I.  40,  60. 

Bellevne  Ave.  44. 

First  Beach  45. 

Fort  Adams  4(1. 

Islanils,  the  4(>. 

Lawton's  Valley  44. 

Purgatory  45. 

r  -dwood  Library  43. 

Ro;  >id  Tower  43. 

State  House  42. 
New]iort,  Vt.  171. 
New  Roehelle,  N.  Y.  00. 
Newton,  Mass.  35,  120,  124. 
Newtown,  Conn.  114. 
New  York  City  325, 

Astor  Library  333. 

Battery  .329. 

Hay,  tiie  329. 

Bible  House  33.3. 

Isoulevard  338. 

Rowling  Green  329. 

Broadway  330,  335. 

Cathedral  330. 

Central  Bark  330. 

Chri-t  Church  335. 

City  Hall  332. 

Cooiier  Institute  333. 

Court  House  332. 

Custom  House  331. 

Fifth  Avenue  335. 

Five  Points  332. 

Grace  Church  33.3. 

Grand  Central  Depot  330. 

High  lUidge  -MS. 

Lenox  Libraiy  338. 

Madison  Stjuare  334. 

National     Academy     of 
I'esii,'!!  3:',4. 

New  Post-Oirice  332. 

New  York  University  333 

Park  Row  331. 

Reservoir  335. 

St.  George  334. 

St.  Fuul  331. 


Sii     Preasury  3.30. 

T(       'le  Lnianuel  3:'>6. 

Tono  ,,  the  332. 

Trinity  Cliurcdi  330. 

Uiiion  Square  333, 

Wall. Street  .330. 

Waril's  Island  .339. 

Y.  M.C.  Association  334. 
.Viaiitic,  Conn.  74. 
Nix's  Mate,  Mass.  23. 
Norfolk,  Conn.  120, 
Nnrmaii's  Woe  240. 
Nnrotoii,  Comi.  S7. 
Norridgewock,  Me.  29.3. 
N.  Adams,  Mass.  154. 
.N'orthamiiton,  Mass.  159, 
Noitliboro,  Jlass.  126. 
N.  Conway,  N.  II.  223,  2S7. 
Nortldield.  Mass.  102. 
Niirthlli'ld,  Vt.  200. 
N.  Ilavi  u,  Ctiun.  141. 
N.  Stratiord,  N.  H.  243. 
N(Mtlnnuberland,     N.    II. 

212,  2'i3,  2110. 
N.  Yarmouth,  Me.  287. 
Norton's  Falls,  Conn.  122. 
.Norwalk,  Conn.  87. 
.Norwich,  Conn.  90,  119. 
Norwidi.  Vt.  100. 
Notch,  B(!lton,  Conn.  94. 

Dixville,  N.  H.  243. 

Frani'ouia,  N.  H.  238. 

<;rafton.  Me.  289. 

IMnUham,  N.  H.  220. 

Sandgate,  Vt.  180. 

Snniggler's,  Vt.  202. 

White  Mt.  231. 

Wilmington,  N.  Y.  307. 

Oak  Bluffs.  Mass.  00. 
Old  Deerlield.  Ma.ss.  163. 
Old  Hadlev.  Mass.  161. 
Ohl  Ordiard  Beach  283. 
Oldtown,  Me.  318. 
Ore  Hill.  Conn.  12L 
Orford  ML,  Can.  173. 
v)rford,  N.  H.  168. 
Orient  Sjirings,  Mass.  102. 
Orono,  Me.  318. 
Osceola,  Mt.  242. 
Gssipee  ML,  N.H.219,  220. 
Ossipee,  N.  il.  214. 
(Jtta   Quechee   Valley,  Vt. 

199. 

Owl's  Head  Mt.,  Cau.  ITS. 
Oxford,  Me.  288. 
Oxford,  Mass.  104. 

Palenville,  N.  Y.  34S. 
Palisad.s,  the  341. 
Palmer,  Mass.  130. 
Paris  Hill.  Me.  288, 
Pannachene  Lake  289. 


»         .L      I 

/  rv 


INDEX. 


iO. 
i\  :536. 

330. 
'Si. 

a1i(.n  334. 

1. 

.  '2a. 

JO. 

G. 

7. 

e.  2!'3, 

1'j4. 

ass.  159. 
.  1-20. 
.  223,  2S7. 
.  102. 
00. 

141. 
II.  243. 
,     N.    II. 

0.  287. 
oun.  122, 
87. 

'.to,  119. 
3. 

L.V>nn.  04. 
.  243. 
H.  238. 
fSO. 
11.226. 
ISO. 


K.  Y.  3G7. 


PH.sfine  Id.,  Mns«).  92.  |  Profile,  the  239. 

rnssacoiiiiway  Mt.  220.        |  Prospect  Mt..  Coiiii.  ll."). 
pjissuiiijisic,  Vt.  109.  IProspt'ct  Mt.,  N.  H.  210. 

Patten,  Me.  310.  |Prnnfs  Neck,  Me.  270. 

Paiildiii},'  Manor,  N.  Y.  342.  Providence,  R.  I.  03. 


00. 

ss.  163. 
I.  101. 

k'h  283. 


,173. 

S. 

Mass.  102. 


219,  220. 

,4. 

alley,  Yt. 

ICau.  1:2. 


I34S. 


Pawtiicket,  It.  I.  02. 
I'awtuxct,  U.  I.  65. 
I'.mImkIv,  Mass.  253. 
I'.arcl.ilo,  R.  I.  08. 
Peak's  Id.,  Me.  274. 
Peekskill.  N.  Y..343. 
Peiliaiii  F(irt,  Mass.  179. 
I'riiiaiiuid,  Me.  2',»'.>. 
PeiiiiKewasset  Valley  210 
I'riuMineese  Id.  02. 
I'epperell,  Ma.ss.  105. 
Peipiot  House,  Conn.  74. 
Perrv's  Peak,  Mass.  148. 
I'rte'rl)()ro,  N.  H.  180. 
I'liillips,  Me.  202. 
i'liips»)nrg.  Me,  207. 
Piernioiit,  N.  J.  342. 
Pi-eon  Cove,  Ma.ss.  247. 
Pittshf.rf,',  N.  H.  245. 
Pitt.stield.  Mass.  144. 
Pittsford,  N.  H.  182. 
Piae.  ntia.^N.  Y.  346. 
Plainlield,  Conn.  04. 
Plainvillc,  Conn.  109. 
Piattshuru',  N.  Y.  367. 
Pleasant,  Mt.  2.:0 
Plymoiitli,  Conn.  112. 
Plymouth,  Mass.  51. 

iUirving  Hill  53. 

Fort'-father's  Roek  52. 

Pilgiim  Hall  52. 

Plvnioutli  Forest  b'i. 
Plvinonth,  N.  H.  210,  217 

•J42. 
Poeasset,  Mass.  58. 
r.iint.Jndith,  R.  I.  69. 
I'oint  Levi,  Can.  290,  383. 
point  Shirley,  Mass.  20. 
I'nintYet.  Conn.  118. 
Ponipanoosuc,  Vt.  lt>7. 
Pool,  the  N.  H.  240. 
Port  Chester.  N.  Y.  90. 
Pnrt  Henrv.  N.  Y.  365. 
pMft  Kent,  N.  Y.  367. 
I'urtland,  Me.  270,  283. 

t:'ity  Hall  272. 

Cussoni  House  272. 

Evergreen  Cein.  273. 

Ottscrvatorv  272. 

Post  Office  "273. 

W.  Promenade  271. 
l'(  rtsmoutli,  N.  H.  263. 
P'U-hkeepsie,  N.  Y.  346. 
Pouitney.  Vt.  1S7. 
PnH(pif.  Isle.  Me.  323. 
I'linecton,  Mass.  177. 
I'lo.torsville,  Vt.  181. 
I'l-Mtile  Honae  238. 

17* 


Arcaile  (53. 

.■\tlienieuni  04. 

IJrowii  University  64. 

Monument  03. 

R.    .  Hospital  04. 
Provincetown,  .Mas.-^   f>7. 
Prudence  Id.,  R.  I.  06. 
Pulaski  .Mt.,  Vt.  108. 
Putnam,  Conn.  117. 
Putney,  Vt.  164. 

Quebec,  Can.  290,  375. 

Catliedral  380. 

Citadel  37'.». 

Durham  Terrace  378. 

Kn^:lisll  Cathedml  378. 

C olden  Do},'  3S2. 

Hotid  Dieu  380. 

.Jesuit  ?;uildiii.!,'S  381. 

Laval  University  381. 

Marine  Hosjiital  382. 

Market  Square  380. 

Mt.  Ilenuou  Ceni.  383. 

Not  re  Danxe  des  Viotoires 
383. 

Pari iai- lent  House  380. 

Phi'-e  id'Aritses  378. 

PljtUEs  of  Abrsihain  SSX. 

Pr»>i-ott  Gat*'  38(). 

Srai'inarv  381. 

S*.  Joiiii's»;ate  .37<>. 

St.  Louis  Cite  :\7^ 

Ursiiline  Convent  ;!81. 

Wolte     ami      Montcalm 
Monument  .'j7'.>. 
Queens  Fort,  IL  I.  60. 
Quincy,  Mass.  .3,7. 
Qui:isi<,'aniond  Lake  126. 
Quoddy  Hea«l.  Me.  322. 

Rafe's  Chasm,  Mass.  247. 

Ra'-C!,'ed  Mt..  N.  H.  19S. 

Randoli)h  Hil'  228,  230. 

Randol])li,  Vt.  200. 

Ran.uel.v  Lakes  245.  202. 
iRavnliam,  Mass.  3S. 
'KeadfieM,  Me.  309, 
;Reailiii<,%  ('nun.  1 10. 
i  Reading,',  Mass.  •J70. 
iReadville.  Mass.  «;2. 
I  Recluse  Id  .  N.  Y.  359. 

Red  Hili,  N,  H.  210. 
i  Revere  Beach,  27. 

Rhinebeck-on-Hudson  347. 
I  Rhode  Island  40,  40. 

Hichfoid,  Vt.  207. 

Uv'  hmond,  Ciin.  200. 
i  Richmond  Id.  270. 


Richmond,  Me.  311. 
Ridicelleld,  Conn.  116. 
Ridley's  Station,  Vt.  203. 
Rindyc,  N.  H.  179. 
Ripton,  Vt.  184. 
River,    Ainmonoosuc  233, 
290. 

Androscoggin    289,    291, 
3()S,  310. 

Aroostook  323,  324. 

Cliaudiire  313.  .383. 

Connecticut  75,  106,  134, 
157,  109,  211,  243,  245. 

East  47,  3.39. 

Farinin;,'t<tn  109,  143. 

Hou.satonic  115,  148,  1.53. 

Hudson  340,  350. 

Kenmdpec  293,  3'1. 

Lamoille  203,  204. 

Merrimac   189,  193,  197, 
2.'.S.  i>7.s.  279. 

Missi.sipioi  200. 

Naiigatuck  111. 

Passumpsic  l(i9. 

Pciui^cwasset  210,  241. 

Penobs.  ot  2;t6,  316. 

Ri(  heheii  207.  3t;8,  373. 

Suco  223,  231,  209,  285. 

Sa;,'ucnav  3S;k 

St.  Croix  322. 

St.  .John  320.  323. 

St.    LaureiK-e   369,   372. 
37:5,  3S4. 

St.  Maurice  374. 

Thames  '.Hi. 

Winooski  203,  2o4. 
Ftiverilale,  Mas.s.  240. 
lii'-irmouth  Rock.s,  262. 
Iliviere  du  Li'«ip  3C".,  385. 
Ro<liester,  N.  H.  213,  282. 
Ro(dvlaiid  Lake.  N.  Y.  .343. 
Rockland,  Me,  301,  316. 
Rnckjioit,  Ma.ss.  247. 
Iloekville,  Conn.  94. 
Rocky  Hill.  Conn.  140. 
Rockv  Point,  R.  I.  0.'». 
ilo-.Ts'  Slide,  N.  Y.  360. 
Roudout,  N.  V.  340. 
Roslyn,  L.  I.  340. 
Rouu'enioiit  Mt.  208. 
Houillard  Mt.  290. 
Rocnd  Id.,  Can.  172. 
IlouM.'s    Point.   X.   Y.  207. 
!  Rowley,  Mass.  208. 
Rox'eiry,  .Mass,  30. 
RoxiMiiy.  Vt,  200. 
Rovalton,  Vt.  200. 
Rumfoid  Falls,  Me.  288. 
Rnmnev,  .\.  H.  211. 
Rutland,  Vt.  1.'>1. 
R\e  llca.h,  N.  II.  203. 
Rye-ute,  vt.  t08. 
Rye,  N.  Y.  W. 


If 


04 


INDEX. 


V  .1 


I 


I 

*     !) 


H 


;  i' 


Sabbath  Day  Point  a&D. 
ya<c.'iraiiiia,  Mc.  'JI3. 
.SacliiMu's  llt;ad,  Coiiii.  70. 
Saclioiii's  riaiii,  Conn.  1)7. 
Haco,  Me.  200. 
.Saco  i'ooi  201). 
.Sage's  Uavitic,  Conn.  122. 
»Saf4;ucnay  liivcr  liH.'i. 
St.  Albans,  Vt.  204. 
St.  AikIr'W,  N.  \i.  '^-l-l. 
iStc.  Anne,  Can.  .'5S4. 
St.  diaries,  Lake  •J.S4. 
.St.  Fcreol  Falls  ^85. 
St.  Fiancis,  Me  ;^21. 
St.  (JoorRe,  Me.  301. 
St.  Ilvarinthe,  Can.  290. 
St.  John  River  ^20. 
St.  .lohiisbuiy,  Vt.  109. 
St.  John's,  Can.  208. 
St.  ,)c)lins,  N.  1).  320. 
St.  Maurice  Hiver  .'{74. 
St.  Slej.hen,  N.  IJ.  323. 
Salem,  Ma.ss.  2.01. 

Court  Jiouse  2'):}. 

Custom  JInii.sp  2.03. 

Ivuit  India  iMuseum  252. 

I'hini/iier  Hall  2r.2. 

Salem  Neck  2[i:{. 
HiiIIhImuv  Ilcach  200. 
Halisbiirv,  Conn.  Iir.,  121. 
Halisbiiry.  Mass.  2(K». 
Hiilmoii  r/|||,i,  N.  II.2h:j. 
Hand^'ate  Notch.  Vt.  |K0. 
Sandislield,  Mass.    i/j2. 
\K\\\\A  .sprinu,  Mass.  1.  tl. 
Sandwieh,  Mush,  6ft. 
.Suiidwich.  N.  II,  21'.». 
Sankoty  Head.  02. 
Sarato};a  Sjirings  IJ.OO. 

Battle  held. '3.')r.. 

Cohimliian  S|irinj.;  .'^oi. 

C(i|l!ll''''<M  Sluing  3.02. 

Crystal  Sjjrin^'  3;j3. 

FiXeelsior  Sjirin^^  354. 

iieyser  Spring  .'ial. 
^ake,  the  ;'(54. 

I'ark,  Con,un!Ss  3.02. 

ravilion  Spring  303. 

Seltzer  Spring  3,03. 

Star  Sjiring  3,04. 
Saugerties,  N.  Y.  347. 
Savin  Hock,  Conn.  S3. 
Savov,  Mass.  );03. 
Sawyer's  Rock,  N.  II.  230. 
S.iylirook,  Conn.  7.0. 
Searl)oro  Reach  270,  283. 
Selioodie  Lakes,  Me.  322. 
Schooner  Head,  Mo.  304. 
Seituate,  Mass.  41). 
Screw  Auger  Falls  280. 
Scabrook,  N.  II.  201. 
Searsi>ort,  Me.  317. 
Sebago  Lake,  Me.  284. 


Sebec  Lake,  Me.  295. 
Se.saeaehu  Fond  02. 
Seymour,  Conn.  HI. 
Sharon,  Mass.  62. 
Sharon,  Vt.  109. 
Shawanegan  Falls  374. 
Shellield,  Ma.s.s.  103. 
Shelliehl,  N.  R.  320. 
Shclbnrne  Falls,  Ma.sH.  179. 
Shelbnrne,  N.  H.  289. 
Sheldon  Springs,  Vt.  206. 
Sherbrooke,  Can.  174. 
Shijipan  Point,  Conn.  89. 
Shoals,  Lslcs  of  20.0. 
Shrewsbnry,  Mass.  12G. 
Siasconset,  Alass.  01. 
Silver  Cascade,  2.32. 
Simsbury,  Conn.  109. 
Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.  343. 
Skinner  Hollow,  Vt.  185. 
Skiimer's  h\.,  (,'an.  172. 
Skowh.gan.  Me.  293. 
Sleepy  Hollow,  N.  Y.  .342. 
smugglers'  Notch,  Vt,  202. 
Solon,  Me.  294. 
Somerville,  Mass.  249,  275. 
Somes'  Sound,  Me.  300. 
Soril,  (,'an.  373. 
S-  .AdaniM,  MuHM.  153. 
H.  Riaintree,  M.i.ss.  38,  51. 
H-  Cornwall,  t'onn.  115. 
S.  Decr/iehl,  MasM.  102. 
H.  Fgremont,  Mass.  16U. 
H.  Franilogham  125. 
S.  Hadley,  Mass.  158, 

nithingloii,  Conn.  109. 
S.  Kiugsjowli,  ll.  I.  09. 
S.  Mountain,  Mass.  145. 
S.  Norwalk,  Conn.  87. 
S.  I'aris,  Me.  288. 
Southport,  Conn. 80. 
Mouthiiort,  Me.  299. 
S.  Royiilton,  Vt.  200. 
S.  Vernon,  Vt.  102. 
Southwest  Harbor.Me.  306. 
H.  Windh  im,  .Me.  284. 
.S.  Winds(jr,  Conn.  140. 
Sparkling  Cascade  232. 
Si>ecta(  le  I'onds  114. 
Spencer,  Ma.ss.  130. 
Spot  I'ond  189,  275. 
Springlield,  Mass.  131,  157. 

City  Lil)rary  1.32. 

Court  House  132. 

U.  S.  Armory  131. 
Springfield,  Vt.  105,  181. 
Springvftle,  Me.  213. 
Spuvten  Duyvil  Creek,  N. 

Y.  341. 
Spv  Fond,  Mass.  34. 
Sqiiam  Lake  217,  220. 
S<iuantuin  Point  37. 
Statford  Springs  99. 


Stage  Id.,  M(!.  200. 
Stamford,  Conn.  88. 
Standish,  Me.  285. 
Stanstead,  Can.  174. 
Star  Id.,  N.  II.  2Co. 
Starks,  Me.  294. 
Stoekbridgc,  Mu.ss.  149. 
Stonehani,  Ma.s.s.  275. 
.Stonington,  Conn.  71. 
Stony  Creek,  Conn.  70. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.  343. 
Stow,  Vt.  202. 
Stratford .  N.  II.  282. 
Stratford,  Conn.  84. 
Stratfonl,  N.  H.  290. 
Stratham,  N.  H.  207. 
.Stratton  Caj),  Vt.  185. 
Strong,  Me.  292. 
Sudburv,  Mass.  125. 
Sugar  L'oafMt.  102. 
Summit,  Vt.  181. 
Sun;ii)ee  Lake,  N.  II.  196. 
SuiKook,  N.  H.  194. 
Sunderland,  Mass.  162. 
Surjirise,  Ml.  228. 
Sutherland  Falks,  Vt.  182. 
Swamp  (dtt.  Mass.  251. 
Swanton,  VI.  207. 
Sw.inzey.  N.  H.  102. 
.Sylvan  (ihide  Cataract  232 

Tndousae,  Can.  ()8fi. 
Talcott  m.,  Conn.  139. 
Tappiin.  N.  .L  342. 
Tiijiiian  Zee  342. 
tarrtlown,  N.  Y.  .')42, 
'I'uunton,  Mass.  3*1. 
Templetoii,  Majsn   (77. 
'i'ewksliury,  Mass.  \Wt. 
Thaeher's  h\.,  Mass.  247. 
The  Forks,  Me.  294. 
TJietford,  Vt.  107. 
Thimble  Is.,  Conn.  76. 
Thomaston,  Me.  301, 
Thompson,  Conn.  104,  117. 
ThomjKsons  Falls,   N.   il. 

226. 
Thon)i)sofi'«  14.  22. 
Thomj>8on\ill^  13.'J, 
Three  Rivers.  Can.  290,  37  » 
T;)rogg's  P<nnt,  N.  Y.  47. 
Ticondei'oga,  Fort  183,3*^.2. 
Tilton,  N.  H.  209. 
Tivoli,  N.  Y.  347. 
iTobv  Mt.  102.     ♦ 
jTolland,  Conn.  99. 
Toi)slield,  Mas.s.  276. 
Trov,  N.  H.  ].?0. 
Troy,  N.  Y.  350. 
Truro,  Mass.  50. 
Tuokerman's    Ravine,    N. 

H.  227,  237. 
Tufts  College,  Ma.ss.  189. 


( 


INDEX. 


, 


.  140. 
75. 
71. 
1.  70. 
.  343. 

>2. 
>. 

00. 

07. 
185. 

!5. 


H.  196. 
91. 
.  102. 

Vt.  182. 
s.  251. 

02. 
fira<;t  232 

it,. 
1.  139. 


312. 

177. 

.SO. 
ss.  247. 
»4. 

.  76. 
301, 

104,  117. 
s,   N.   JI, 

2. 


' 


Tunicr'.s  Falls,  Miiss.  178. 
Twill  l-iikcs.  Conn.  123. 
Twill  Mt.  iioiise  233. 

Uin»»nKnR  Lake  244,  2S0. 
riidiTflitr,  N.  Y.  345, 
ll.p.r  Barllett  230,  287. 
ri-lnii,  Me.  244,  281). 
lixbritlgc,  Muss.  93. 

Vnii  Burcii,  Mc  324. 
V.iiiccboro,  .Mo.  310. 
ViiriMinos,  Clin.  373. 
V.issalhoro,  Mo.  313. 
Viissiir  ColloKO  340. 
Vor^'cnnos,  Vt.  184,  365. 
ViTiion,  Conii.  04. 
Viinnn,Vt.  102. 
VcipliUKjk's  Point  343. 
V.isliirc,  Vt.  I(i7. 
Viiioyiml  Haven  60. 
Vineyard  Sound  i>2. 
Viio  do  I'Eau,  U.  1.  65. 

Waflinsett,  Mt.  177. 
Wakcliold,  Mass.  270. 
Waidnl.oro,  Mo.  300. 
W;dliiij,M'(>rd,  Conn.  140. 
Wallinglord,  Vt.  184. 
AVali)olc,  N.  II.  180. 
\V;ilthani,  Mass.  175 
Ward's  Id.,  N.  Y.  47,  339. 
Ware,  Mass.  90. 
W.iieliani,  Mass.  .54. 
AVaielmuso  I'oint  133. 
Warren,  Me.  300. 
\Sancn,  Mass.  130. 
Warren,  N.  H.  211. 
Wan  en,  Jt.  I.  66. 
Hirwiek,  11.  J   67. 
W,i'l(i}»>ctoii,  Miss.  143. 
WasliiKz(//n,  Mt.  234. 
Witch  U,H  i'oint  70. 
ViAUvhury,  ^>>nii.  05. 
\Vate/v<ify,  Vi   202. 
Watcrff/ivj,  He.  -Pib. 
Watert<.»WM,  Codb.  112. 


Watertown,  Mass.  84. 
Wuterville,  Conn.  112. 
Waterville,  Me.  30!t,  314. 
Watervjile,  N.  U.  242. 
Waiikawan  Lako  2n;t. 
Waiiniliek  House  212.  220. 
Waiire^jan,  Conn,  ll'.i. 
Welistcr,  Mass.  101. 
Weeliawken,  \.  J,  341. 
Weir  .hinc,  .Ma.ss.  00. 
Weirs,  N.  H.  2(10,  215. 
Wei.l,  Me.  201. 
Weileslev,  .Mass.  124. 
Well  Meet,  Mas.s.  56. 
Wells  l}eaeh  268,  283. 
Wells  liiver,  Vt.  108,  211. 
Weiiliani,  .Mass.  250. 
Weiitwortli.  N.  H.  211. 
W'estlioio,  Mass.  120. 
W.  Hrooklield.  Mass.  130. 
Westl.rook,  Me.  284,  300. 
Westerly,  H.  1.  70. 
Westtield,  .Mass.  110,  142 
Westlord.  Mass.  176. 
W.  Lel.aiioii,  N.  II.  lOO. 
W.  .Medford,  .Mass.  188. 
Westminster,  Mass.  177. 
Westminster,  Vt.  IW. 
Weston,  Mo.  310. 
W.  Ossiiioe.  N.  11.214,  220. 
West  Point,  N.  Y.  344. 
Westiiort,  Conn.  S7. 
Westjiort,  Me.  200. 
Westjiort,  .Mass.  02. 
Westjiort,  N.  Y.  305. 
West  Hnek,  Conn.  83. 
W.  Hutland,  Vt.  182,  187. 
W.  I'roy,  N.  Y.  350. 
Wetliers/ield,  Conn.  130. 
Weymoiitii,  .Mass.  48. 
Wliatily,  Mass.  162. 
Whilefaeo  Mt.  220. 
Wliitehall,  N.  Y.  188.  356. 
Wliite  Id.,  N.  H.  260. 
Wliit.e  River  June,  Vt.  166, 
100. 

White  Mt.  Notch  231. 


395 

Wliito  Mts.  213,  222. 
Wiekford,  n.  I.  67. 
Williraliani,  Mass.  1.30. 
Wiilard,  Mt.  231. 
Willey  House  231. 
W'illiainsliiirj;,  Mass.  110. 
Williams  C<dlej,'e  156. 
W'illiaiiistown,  Mass.  l.'iO. 
Williiiiantie,  Conn.  04. 
WillniiKlil'V  Lake  170. 
Wiltnn,  N.  11.  102. 
Winrliendon,  Mass.  170. 
WiiK  liost«'r.  Mass.  180. 
WiiKdiester.  N.  H.  102. 
Wiiidliam,  N.  H.  270. 
Windsor,  Conn.  133. 
Windsor,  Mass.  144. 
Windsor,  Vt.  165. 
Win^'ltoad,  \.  H.  2P2. 
Winnopesaukeo    Lake,    N. 

H.  215,  282. 
Winooski,  Vt.  204,  360. 
Winsted,  Conn.  113. 
Winterport,  Me.  318. 
Wintlirop,  Me.  308. 
Wiscasset.  Mo.  208. 
Woluirn,  Mass.  180. 
Wol.-ottville.  Conn.  11.3. 
Woiriioro,  N.  H.  214,  218. 
Wood's  Hole,  50.  02. 
Woodstock,  Conn.  117. 
Woodstock,   N.  H.  323. 
Woodstock,  N.  H.  241, 
Woodstock,  Vt.  100. 
Woolwicli,  Me.  208. 
Woonsocket,  U.   I.  0.3,  120. 
Worcester.  Mass.  127. 

xVutiquariaii  Soc.  128. 

Industrial  School  127. 

M  nmnonts  120. 


Yalo  College,  Conn.  75,  80. 
Yantic  Falls,  Conn.  96. 
Yarmouth,  Mo.  300. 
Yarnioutli,  Mass   50. 
Yonkors,  N.  Y.  341. 
York,  Me.  266. 


.200,371 
K.  Y.  47. 

t  183,  3<.2. 


1. 


276. 


I 


vine,    N. 
ass.  189. 


396 


11 

hi 

i 


INDEX. 


Index  of  Historical  Allusions. 


Albany,  N.  Y.  i\A^. 

IhiUHav,  Mo.  UKl. 

Hal  lie  of  IJfiniiiiK'ton  186, 

Hlof.dv  Brook  102. 

IJiiiikrr  Hill  'JO, 

Ciistiiu-  'M)2. 

ttio      Ohcsaiu'iike      and 
Shannnii  265. 

TI)ii.h;inlt()n  187. 

tlif  Indians  If))). 

Lako.  (Jcorp'  356. 

I.C'xinKloM  JH. 

V(.(|iiji\skt>t  -JSG. 

I'ccinot  Hill  72. 

I'lattsiiiir^  mi. 

<^ii('Ik'('  .'t7(>. 

J^aratdKa  '.if)!"). 

Tnrncr'H  !'alls  178. 
niddcl'di-d  '-()'.». 
iWork  Island  71. 
Hoston  7. 

Braintrep.  Mass.  .S8. 
Hriducport,  Conn.  sr>. 
15ri>.)klit'lil.  Mass.  i;;(). 
15riniswick,  Me.  ;!()St. 
J5uilin-ton,  Vt.  307. 
Cape  Ann  248. 
CajH!  Cod  .or*. 
Castillo.  M(>.  ;i(>2. 
Clianiltly,  Can.  208. 
<  liaili'siown,  N.  II.  165. 
CJfincord,  N.  H.  11)4. 
Crown  rc.int,  N.  Y.  304. 
Cultyhunk,  Mass.  92. 


nanbuiT,  Conn.  1 10. 
Dcniicl'd,  Mass.  103. 
Dover,  X.  »I.  2S2. 
Dnxbnry,  Mass.  50. 
Kml    .Mnnt^oMicry,  344. 
Kort   Tii'ondi'nii,';!,  .302. 
KrVflim-,  Mf.  2S0. 
Iladlrv,  .Mass,  101. 
Haini-ton.  N.  If.  202. 
Isles  ot'.Slioah  2(M1. 
Kennel. link,  .Mr.  2(iS. 
Lake  Chani]ilain  301. 
Lake  (ieor;-'e  .•'.57. 
Lehaiiiiii,  (  oiiii.  (tS. 
Liteliiii'id,  (Jonn.  112,  113. 
Londonderry,  N.  II.  27'.». 
LoiiislMir^'  Caiii|i;iigns  7. 
Lvnn,  .Mass.  25(i. 
Marhleliead,  Mass.  250. 
Marshjiee,  Mass.  .'.fl, 
Martha's  Viiievaid  51t, 
Milford,  Conn.  ,S4. 
-Montrejil  308, 
Mount  Desert  300. 
Nantu(!kot  00. 
Narraj,'ansett    Fort 

O'J. 
Natiek,  Mns.s.  125. 
New  Hedl'ord,  .Mass, 
New  Haven,  Conn.  77. 
New  London.  Conn.  72. 
New  York  328. 
Xewlmryport,  Mass.  200, 
Newport,  11.  I.  40. 


Fight 


00. 


N..rridKPWoek,  Me.  20.1. 
Nortiiain|iti.n,  Ma.s.s,  159. 
I'eniaipiid,  .Mo.  2!M). 
PliipstnuK,  Me.  297. 
I'il^rrini  Conipjiet  58. 
IMvtiioiith,  .Mass.  51. 
Portland,  Me.  271. 
l''irtsnioiitli,  N.  H.  264. 
I'rovidenre,  R.  1.63. 
Qiiel)e(!  370. 
Uiiode  Island  46. 
Hye,  N.  H.  2(-:{. 
.St..Iolin,  N.  n.  321. 
Salfiii,  .Mass.  253. 
."^alishiiry.  Conn.  123. 
Sjiyhrook,  Conn.  75. 
Searliorotifjli,  Me.  270. 
Soutlijiort,  Conn.  87. 
Spriii};lie!d,  .Mass.  131.' 
Stoekltridi^e,  Mass.  1  19. 
Stoiiin^'toii,  Conn.  71. 
.Stony  Point,  N.  Y.  .343. 
fSndliiiry,  Mass.  125. 
Thoniaston,  Me.  3(H. 
W.irwiek,  II.  I.  67. 
Wells,  Me.  20S. 
West  Point,  N.  Y.  344. 
Whitehall.  X.  Y.  350. 
Wliite  Mts.  222. 
Windsor,  Conn.  133. 
\Vore(ster,  Mass.  129. 
Yale  College  75,  70,  80. 
York,  Me.  267. 


Index  of  Biographiuai  Allusions. 


, 


H    ll 

i 


il 


Adams,  Charles  Francis  38. 
Ad.iiiis,  John  37. 
Adams,  .John  Quiney  37. 
Ailams,  rt.aniiiel  13. 
Allen,  Kthan  2()1,  303. 
Allen,  William  140. 
All.st(m,  WivshiiiKton  31,  45. 
Ames,  Fisher  117. 
Andre,  M.ajor  .John  343. 
Andrew,  Gov.  .John  A.  24. 
Arnold,  Benedict  342,  3(53,  376. 
IJ.anks,  Xafhaniol  P.  175. 
Barlow,  .Joel  110. 
Baruards,  the  1.5.3. 
Banium,  Phineas  T.  86. 
Boeclur,  Henry  Ward  113. 
Bcccher,  Lvnian  79,  113. 
Bellows,  Henry  W.  181. 
Berkeley,  Dean  George  45. 
Bowdoii,,  .lames  92,  310. 
Brentons,  the  40. 
Brooks,  Gov.  John  189. 
Brown,  Col.  John  152,  358,  863. 


Brown,  John  152.  113. 

Bryant,  William  >  ullcn  110,  157,  340. 

Casey,  Gen.  fcjilas  07. 

Cass,  Lewis  281. 

ChamlL-rlain,  Gov.  .7.  L.  .311. 

Chamiiliiin,  Samuel  (le  .301,  01,  55. 

('lianii)lin  Com.  !Slephen08. 

Channing,  William  KUery  42. 

Chase,  Bisho]i  Philander  100. 

Chase,  (  hiet'-Justice  Salmon  P.  166. 

Chase,  Senator  Dudky  100. 

Choate,  Hulus  257. 

Cole,  'I'hoiuas  348. 

Copley,  .lohii  Singleton  31. 

Crosswell,  Harry  79. 

Dane,  Nathan  250. 

Davenport,  .\liraliam  89. 

Dawes,  Henry  L.  110. 

Dickinson,  Daniel  S.  115. 

Dix,  John  A.  li'7. 

Dixwell,  John  80. 

Douglas,  Stt  plien  A.  1S3. 

Downes,  Com.  John  62. 


INDEX. 


au7 


1C6. 


■' 


PiuUi'y,  (!<)V.  Tliniii.is  30. 

K^ifnii,  (it'll,  Williimi  l.iO. 

K.luards.  Jnimtliiili  150,  lf»0, 

Jili.it,  .Itihu  :fti.  liio. 

Kllsworth,  Olivor  i;U. 

KiiiiTSi'M.  Kill!  h  WiiMo  28. 

F,  sscmlfii,  William  i'itt  VM. 

iMllils,  tJut  l.OO. 

I'isk,  Williur  in:?. 

rimtc,  Atlminil   Xudivw  II.  70. 

ri:,'tiiklin,  lioiijaiiiiii  1 1. 

(iinrisoii.  William  Llovd  Ml 

t..iy.s.  tlir  -J I. 

lliitre,  Jji'ii.  Wiiliiim  lol. 

CiiMHlricli.  C.  A.7'.». 

C.io.lricli.  H.  0.  110. 

Gorton,  S  iiinu-l  «>7. 

(inints,  the  i;i4. 

( I it'i  !»•)',  Horace  102. 

(irtciip,  Gt'ii.  (J.  K.  ()7. 

CifciH',  (icii.  N'atliiiiii«'l  07. 

(.piw,  (ialusiiu  A.  1  IS. 

IImIi'.  Senator  .loliii  1'.  21.'},  281, 

liiilleck,  Fitz  (irenno  70. 

lliiiiMick,  .Jt)lin  .'18. 

llani'len.  Cai>t.  Jonathan  24S. 

llawtlioriH-,  Natlianicl  •-''>4,  28,  210,  .311. 

IlaziMis,  till!  2.S(). 

Holmes,  (  Miver  Woiiddl  30,  140. 

IlooUer,  (icn.  Jnscph  102. 

Ilosiiu'r,  llarrit't  <  <.  ;i'>. 

llowiiiil,  (Jen.  Oliver  O.  2!>1. 

Howe,  Klias,  .Ir.  VW. 

Iliulson,  Ilemlriek  ^}0,  340. 

h,s.  Uisl¥)p  Levi  8.  140. 

.I'l^lson,  Adoiiinim  27o. 

KiHiwlton,  Col.  'I'lioiiias  118. 

Kiikx,  Gen.  lleiirv  :'.ol. 

i.aiiili'r,  (icii.  F.  W.  254. 

I.  lurciices,  the  27'-'. 

Lincoln,  Gen.  Hcnj  nnin  21. 

i.(Mi:lollo\v,  Henry  W.  :'.:{,  311. 

liOWfll,  Jame.s  llu.ssell  'M. 

I. von,  (ion.  Natlianiel  lis. 

M  in.sti.ld.  Gen.  J.  K.  F.  107. 

Marsh,  (ieo.  P.  I'll). 

.M    id,  LaikinG.  103. 

M  Iville,  Herman  140. 

Miantonomoh,  72.  1*7. 

.Miller,  Williair  140. 

Mills,  Samuel.).  156. 

Munis,  Rabbi  Jud.ali  120. 

.Morse,  S.  F.  U.  7'.>,  340. 

-Mii-av,  John  240. 

^luuay,  W.  H.  H.  70. 

Nail  ;.iteno  98. 


Nott.  Eliplmlet  in. 

O.ssoll.  .MaiK'aret  Fuller.  Countess  d' 30. 

I'aine,  Thomas  '.lO. 

I'luker,  Thomas  200. 

I'a.ssaeonaway,  I'.i4    J20,  222. 

I'epliei.ll,  Sir  William  2(J.'>. 

I'ereival,  James  Gale.s  140. 

INrry.  Com.  Oliver  Haziird  08. 

I'hilip,  Kiiij  m. 

I'liijis,  Sir  William  2:»S. 

I'i.'keriii^  rininiliv  2.'i4. 

I'ieree.  Franklin  liHi,  311. 

Fowei-s,  Hiram  I'.t'.t. 

rreble,  Com.  K.lward  272. 

I'rescott,  W  illi.im  H.  2.->4,  105. 

I'litmim,  (Jen.  Israel  1  ID,  89,  254. 

U.ile,  Sebasti.in  2',t3. 

Kantniil,  Uobert,  Jr.  250. 

Uiimrord.  Count  1'.''). 

St.  (Jastine.  Vineent,  Baron  do  302. 

Sainleman,  Rnbert  110. 

Saxe,..Ioliii  Gofll'rey  2'>s. 

Se.'ibiirv.  Bishop  Sannnl  74. 

Shaw,  ileiiry  W.  ("Josh.  UillinKS  ")  153. 

Sherman,  Uo^^'er  7'.*. 

Silliman,  Heii.janiiii  7!>. 

Smith,  Joseph  20(l. 

Standish,  Miles  .'>!. 

Stowr,  .Mrs.  Harriet  Dcucber  113, 

Stuart,  Gilbert  C.  OS. 

Thorean,  Henry  I).  28. 

Ti<knor,  (Jeor^,'e  17,  107. 

Triimbulls,  tht!  \>S. 

Uneas,  72,  97. 

Ward,  (Jen.  Art   mas  120. 

W.tril,  (Jen.  F.  T.  2.j4. 

Warren,  J.seph  27. 

Washburnes,  the  2'.ll. 

W.  l.ster,  D.iniel  49,  287,  197,  210. 

Webster,  Noah  7'.». 

Whitelleld,  Geor^'e  2.'>0. 

Whitnev,  Prof.  W.I),  l.'.it. 

Wliittier,  John  Greeiileaf  201. 

Williams,  Col.  Kpjnalm  150.  .350. 

Willistoij,  rsamuel  llu. 

Wilson.  Henry  2S2. 

Wiiisliiw,  .\dmiral  .lohn  A.  50. 

Winslow,  (iov.  Kdward  50. 

Winslow,  (Jen.  J'llm  50. 

Winslow,  (Jov.  Josiah  50. 

Wintliri)]),  .John  14. 

WinthiMp,  Theodme  79. 

Woleotts,  tiie  1;14. 

Wonnolaiicet  194. 

Youii-   liriyi   nil  104.  200, 


Index  of  Quotations. 


Adams,  John  Qiiiney  38,  58. 
.\iidrew.  .lohn  A.  149. 
li.iitol,  Dr.  (J.  A.  215. 


Ueoeher.  Heiirv  Ward  105,  114,  117,  121, 
122.  147,  148,  149,  151.  152,  153.  205. 
Berkeley,  Dean  45. 


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INDEX. 


!»^. 


Biard,  Fatlior  307. 

Brenner,  Frediika  28,  147,  190,  217,  238. 

Bryant,  William  Cnllen  151. 

Burke,  Ediuniid  24S. 

('(inndinn  Ifdn'l-Iinnk  174,  290,  372. 

Chainiil.un,  8aiiiu<;l  de  361. 

('liapiuan.  Rev.  Dr.  ICC. 

(Jharlcv.ix,  Father  2!»4. 

Cliatcaubriand  344. 

<J(tiine(!ti('ut  Lef,'iKlature  70,  72. 

Coolidge  and  Mansfield  li»l.  l!'2. 

CooiH'r,  J.  Feninitire  20,  2i>. 

C'i)nrie/r,  livslnn  141. 

Curtis,  (.ieorge  William  144, 

Dickens,  Charles  <t,  10,  lOn,  190. 

Dilke,  Sir  Charles  20,  30,  57,  165,  212, 

378. 
Drake,  Frane's  S.  13,  28,  42,  50,  150,  201. 
Dwight,  I'res.   Timothy  71,  80,  98,  99, 

140,  158,  249,  200,  275,  360. 
Emersdu,  Raljih  Waldo  28. 
Everett,  Edward  27,  52,  156,  215.     . 
Field,  Uarby  222. 
Gookin,  Daniel,  59,  60. 
Greylock,  Godfrey  143,  145, 146. 
Hawthorne,  Nathaniel  151, 154,  155,  179. 
Hayts,  Dr.  200. 
Ilenians,  Mrs.  52. 

Hitchcock,  Dr.  Edward  152,  178,  179. 
Hoar,  .Judge  129. 
Howells,  William  D.  103,  386. 
Humi)lireys,  Col.  80. 
Irving,  Washington  ^44,  346. 
Johnston,  Lady  Arabella  254. 
.losselyn,  John  7,  15. 
Kenibie,  Funny  147. 


King,  Thomas  Starr  212,  214,  215,  216. 

'2"A,  223,  224,  225,  220,  227,  228,  232, 
i  235,  237,  238,  239,  240,  241. 

Lewis,  Alonzo  22. 

Longfellow,  Henry  W.  125,  126,  132,  240, 
I         30,  51,  70,  324. 
Lossing,  Honson  J.  73,  356. 
I.yell,  Sir  Charles  00,  146,  188,  223. 
Waniiier,  X.  377. 
Marryatt,  Capt.  143. 

Mather,  Cotton  38,  51,  72,  70,  78,  84,  98, 
I         130,  i()3,  253,  257,  200. 
Mortem,  Thomas  33. 
J'enuuiuiii :  (t  Ixdhid  SOO. 
'Percival,  J.  G.  217. 
Pring,  Capt.  ::i7. 
Sedgwick,  Miss  143. 
Sigourney   Mrs.  97,  139, 
Silliman,  Prof.  109,  140,  147,  377. 
.Smith,  Cai.t.  John  49,  55,  257. 
Southey,  Robert  189. 
'Tuylor,  Bayard  232. 
I  j.'honias.  Judge  129. 
Thoreau,  H.  D.  28,  49,  55,  57. 
'Toc(iueville,  de  80. 
Trundmll,  John  159. 
iTwain,  Mark  137. 
Warville,  Brissot  dc  41,  63,  107,  130, 135, 

204. 
Weymouth,  Capt.  301,  317. 
Whittier,  .)ohn  G.  89,  104,  144-,  195,  215, 

210,  220,  248,  250,  200,  262.  263,  275, 

294   305,  321. 
Williams,  Roger  69. 
Winthrop,  Theodore  243,  244,  296,  297. 
Wortley,  Lady  Emma  S.  91,  92,  246. 


.1' 


1 


INDEX. 


399 


,  215,  216. 
',  228,  2;i2, 
[. 

i,  132,  246, 
223. 
78,  84,  98, 


Index  to  Bail  way  3. 


7. 


130,  135, 


195,  215, 
263,  27i>, 


)6,  297. 
246. 


Ashuelot  102. 

Atliol  and  EiifieM  100. 

Bangor  and  I'iscataquis  295. 

Boston  and  All)any  124,  141. 

Boston,  Clinton,  and  Fitchburg  125 

Boston,  Concoi'd,  and  Montreal  209. 

Bostcn,  Hartford,  and  Erie  117. 

Woonsocket  Division  120. 
Boston,  Lowell,  and  Nashua  188. 
Boston  and  Maine  275. 

Dover  ami  Winnopesaukee  282. 
Boston  and  Providence  02. 
Cape  Cod  54. 
Cliesliire  i7l>. 
Concord  192 

Concord  and  Clareniont  196, 
Connecticut  and  i'iissunii)sic  108. 
Connecticut  River  157. 
Connec^ticut  Valley  106. 
Connecticut  Western  120. 
Danbury  and  Nc-walk  115. 
Eastern  248. 

Amesbury  Brand i  261. 

Essex  Branch  257. 

Marbiehead  Branch  255. 

P.  G.  F.  and  Coirvay  213. 
European  and  North  American  318. 
Fairhaven  54. 
Fitchburg  175. 
Grand  Trunk  287. 

Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  94. 
Ilousatonic  114, 147. 


Knox  and  Lincoln  297. 
Lowell  and  Lawrence  279. 
Maine  Central  30/,  309. 

Androscoggin  291. 
Manchester  and  Lawrence  279. 
Monadnock  179. 
Naugatu(;k  111. 

New  Brunswick  and  Canada  323. 
New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield 

133. 
New  Haven  and  Stonington  71. 
New  Haven  and  Northampton  108. 
New  York  and  New  Haven  84. 
Newburyi)f»rt  276. 
Northern  (N.  H.)  197. 
New  London  Northern  96. 
Old  C(jlony  36. 

Portland  and  Ogdensburg  284. 
Portland  end  Uochester  213. 
Portland  and  Oxford  Central  287. 
Providence  and  Bristol  00. 
Providence  and  V/orcester  93. 
Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  187,  350. 
Rutland  and  Washington  187. 
Salem  and  Lowell  255. 
South  Shore  48. 
Stonington  and  Providence  67. 
Vennont  (Central  199. 

Rutland  Division  181. 
Vermont  and  Mass.  177. 
Worcester  aud  Nashua  104. 


Steamers. 


Boston  to  Bangor  316. 

'•      "  Hinghaiii  22. 

"      "  Nahant  20. 

"      "  St.  John  321. 
Fall  River  Line  47. 
Norwich        "    119. 
Stonington    "    71. 
Martha's  Vineyard  59,  92. 
St.  Lawrence  River  373. 
Hudson  "     340. 


Saguenay  River  375,  385. 
Mt.  Desert  Line  302. 
Isles  of  Shoals  205. 
Nai-ragansett  Bay  65, 
Casco  "     274. 

Passamaquoddy  Bay  322. 
Lake  Chaniplain  301. 

'*    George  357. 

*'    Winnepesaukee  215. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


« 

Pagb 

AMERICAN  HOUSE C 

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EASTERN  RAILROAD  .       .        .        .    3(1  p.  cover  and  p.  facing  3d  p.  cover. 

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HEWINS  &  IIOLLIS 2 

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8 


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Fishing  Tackle^ 

SKATES,    AND  FANCY   HARDWARE. 

Table  Cutl<»ry  —  of  latest  styles,  —  finest  finish  and  serviceable  quality. 
Pocket  Knives  —  of  all  the  noted  makers  in  every  style.  —  Fancy  Knives. 
Scissors  —  elegantly  finished,  —  all  sizes  and  forms,  —  in  sets  and  cases. 
Razors  — Dk-essing  Cases  — Travelling  Cases. —  Small  Steel  Wares  and 
ar-icles  of  Domestic  and  Fancy  llard*vaiv  in  en,lle-,s  variety. 

Fishing  Rods,  Lines,  Reels,  and  Tackle  for  all  waters. 

Patent  Clnb  Skates  of  the  best  styles,  and  all  Kinds  of  Skates,  and  many  other 
articles  of  Utility  and  Taste, —  comprising  all  that  Is  Choice  and  Desirable  in  the 
above  Classes  of  tJoods. 

Hotels  supplied  with  Cu  Jery  made  to  their  special  order. 

1!^°"  Orders  by  Mail  will  receive  prompt  and  careful  attention. 

BRADFORD  &  ANTHONY, 


AT    IS  BOYL,STON    STREET, 

Till  Autumn  ok  1873. 


THEN  WE  SHALL  MOVE  TO 


NEW  STORE,    178  WASHINGTON  STREET,  BOSTON. 


GET  THE  BEST. 

Webster's  Unabridged  Dictionary. 

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3,000  Engravings;  1840  Pages  Quarto.  Price,  »1!8. 

Webster  now  is  glorious,  —  it  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired. 
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B[W.  H.  Prescott,  the  Historian.] 
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[John  L.  Motley,  the  Historian,  &c.] 
So  far  as  I  know,  best  defining  dictionary. 
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■Vibe  beet  guide  of  students  of  our  language. 

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AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


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rcler. 

ion. 

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,  BOSTON. 


ionary. 

xries. 
ice,  SIS* 

Vassar  College.] 

t,  the  Historian.] 

le  Historian,  &c.l 

[Horace  Mann] 

ohnG.Whittier.] 

ident  Hitchcock.] 

•es't  Aff.  College  ] 
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Eftablifhed    1817. 

PALMER,  BACHELDERS,  k  CO. 

j\.m.ericaii  and   Foreign 

WATCHES, 

Diamond  k  Stone  Cameo  Jewelry, 

STERLIIVC}  SILVER  PLATE, 

PARIS  MANTEL  CLOCKS  AND  BRONZES, 
]Vo.  31  Temple  Place, 

BOSTON. 

"INGLES  IDE," 


First-Glass  Rural  Hotel  Home. 

Accessibly  Located  on  the  Ilolyoke  and  Westfleld  Railroad, 

Provided  with  every  Modern  Improvement,  and   commanding 

Unsurpassed  Yic^vs  of  Mountain,  Valley, 

and  River  Scenery. 

Five  Hours  from  New  York,  6J^  Miles  from  Springfield, 

FoDR  Hours  from  Boston,  2^  Miles  from  Holtoke. 

All  Springfield   Railway  Trains  from  the  South,  East,  and  West  connect  with 
Trains  for  Holyoke  ;  thence  to  Ingleside  by  cars  or  carriage. 

Trains  leave  Westfield  for  Ingleside,  at  9.25  A.  M.,  1.28  and  8.18  P.  M. 

Trains  leave  Holyoke,  6.40, 11  30,  A.  M.,  5.30  P.  M. 

Communications,  either  by  Letter  or  Telegram,  will  receive  Prompt  Attention. 

Address,     INGLESIDE,    Holyoke,    Mass. 

G.  L.  HENRY,  Manager.  J.  S.  DAVIS,  Proprietor. 

Late  of  H  aynes  H  otel .  


i  > »' 


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AD  VEHTiaEUt^NTS. 


U 


AMERICAN" 


1S©ST©K: 


S 


CENTRALLY  LOCATED. 

CONTAINS  OVER  FOUR  HUNDRED  ROOMS. 

SUITES  AND   SINGLE  APARTMENTS,  WITH  BATHING   AND  WA- 
TER CONVENIENCES  ADJOINING. 

PARTICULARLY    DESIRABLE     FOR     FAMILIES    AND     SUMMER 
TOURISTS. 

PASSENGER  ELEVATOR  IN  CONSTANT  OPERATION. 
READING-ROOM,   BILLIARD-HALLS,   AND  TELEGRAPH-OFFICE. 


LEWIS  RICE  &  SON,  Proprietors. 

56  Hanover  Street. 


s 


T    ^^ 


AND  WA- 


SUMMER 


OFFICE. 


IS. 

ireet. 


T 


) 


) 


ADVERTISE  MWTS. 


PARKER   HOUSE, 

School    Street, 


HARVEY  D.  PARKER, 
JOHN   F.   MILLS. 


BOSTOISJ", 


ON    THE    EUROPEAN  PLAN. 


1^^  The  most  comfortable  Dining-Rooms  and  Restaurant,  with  the  hiist 
service  and  cooking  to  be  found  in  Boston. 


m 


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8 


Ahvi:iiTi,'ii:Mi:sTs. 


TREMONT   HOUSE, 


Corner  of  licncon  niul  Tremont  Stfi.^ 


BOJt^TON. 


V  y^/^  /^  y>  ^ 


REVERE   HOUSE, 


Boivdoin  Square, 


BOSTON. 


The  above  well-established  First-Class  Hotels  are  now  in  perfect  appoint* 
ment,  and  offer  unsurpassed  accommodations  to  tourist  and  traveller. 


June  1,  1873. 


CHAPIN,  GURNEY,  &  CO., 

rroprietors. 


ifc/roN. 


fe> 


\\v  - 


I4v- 


3STON. 


•feet  appoint- 
veller. 

CO., 

rietors. 


ON   TBE  EUROPEAN   TLAN. 

Corner  of  Sixteenth  Street  and  Irving  Place, 

NEW  YORK. 

The  location  of  this  house  is  one  of  the  most  central  yet  q^uiet  in  the 
City,  only  one  block  from  "Union  Square,  and  within  easy  walking  distance 
of  all  the  places  of  amusement.  Tiffany's,  Stewart's,  Arnold  and  Con- 
stable's, Lord  Taylor's,  and  all  the  famous  Bazaars  of  the  metropolis. 

Kooms  from  $1.50  to  $10.00  per  day. 

CHARLES   B.  FERRIN, 

rroprietoT". 


♦r 


10 


A  D  VER  TISEMENTS. 


Okk  Sill  Sou^e 


LITTLETON,  N.  H 


Tha  Bite  on  which  ir  is  built  has  long  been  a  favorite  resort  of  the  tourist,  and  com- 
mands the  most  beautiful  and  e.Mensive  views  of 


The  White  Mountain 


s 


in  the  State.  From  the  piazza  of  the  liouse  the  whole  Mt.  Washington  rangCj  from 
Mooselook  to  Mt.  Adams,  may  be  plainly  seen,  giving  a  magni&ceot  view  of  over 
eighty  miles,  —  the  Qnest  in  New  Sngland. 

The  rooms  are  large  and  commodious,  and  without  exception  afford  pleasant 
prospects.  The  furniture  thrnughnut  is  new  and  nice.  The  grounds,  comprising  five 
acres,  are  being  fitted  up  w>tb  a  vi^w  of  furnishing  all  the  out-door  exercises  and 
amusements  adapted  to  the  wants  of  summer  visitors.  The  house  is  supplied  with  the 
purest  of  running  water  from  a  never-failing  spring  near  by. 

RURAL,  PICTURESQUE,  SECLUDED  WALKS  AND  PE)REATS 

abound  within  a  short  distance  of  the  house,  and  pleasant  rides  in  all  directions.  A 
good  Billiard  and  Bowling  Saloon  is  also  connected  with  tlie  premises. 

The  tables  are  supplied  with  all  the  luxuries  of  the  season,  and  are  not  excelled 
by  any  other  mountain  house. 

Being  located  within  the  precincts  of  one  of  the  most  flou/ishing  villages  of  North- 
ern New  Hampshire,  and  within  an  easy  ride  of  both  the  '  Notches,"  and 

ALL  THE  PROMINENT  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

about  the  White  Mountains,  and  within  five  minutes' walk  of  White  Mountain  Rail- 
road Depot,  which  connects  with  the  Uaiiroadi  in  all  directions,  it  cannot  fail  to  be 
regarded  as  an  extrcuiely  dtsrable  House  lor  both  tourists  and  transient  guests. 

Transient  Guests,  ^.'J.OO  per  day;  Boarders,  per  week,  J$8.00 
to  $15.00,  according  to  room. 


CHAS.  C.  KNAPP  &  CO. 


May  1,  1873. 


^e 


? 


ist,  and  com- 


s 


I  range  J  from 
view  of  over 

ford  pleasant 
mprising  five 
ixrrcises  and 
)lied  with  the 


REATS 

irections.    A 

not  excelled 

;es  of  North - 
1 

lEST 

untain  Rail- 
ot  fail  to  be 
guests. 

k,  ($8.00  i 

Sc  CO. 


AD  VERTISEMEXTS. 


11 


PORTUND  STEAM  PACKET  COMPANY. 


bAILY  LINE  OF  PIRSr-CLASS  STEAMERS  BETWEEN 

Portland  and  Boston 

THROUGHOUT   THE  YEAR. 


One  of  the  splendid  Steamers  of  this  Line, 

JOHN  BROOKS,  -      MONTREAL,  -   -  FOREST  CITY, 

Will  lePTe  India  Wharf,  Boston,  every  evening,  Sundays  excepted,  connecting,  on 
arrival  at  Portland,  with  railway  trains  for 

IVortli  Conivay,  ^VSiitc  ITIouiitains,  Crorhain,  N.  II., 

Montreal,  Quebec,  and  all  parts  of  Canada. 

ALSO  WITH   STEAMERS  FOR 

Bangor,  4>It.  Desert,   Macliias,   Halifax,  N.  S.,   Prlnco  Edward 

Island,  and  Cape  Breton. 

Keturning,  leave  Portland  every  e.cning  for  Boston  (Sundays  excepted). 

!X>~  Througli  Tickets  to  tlue  above  points  sold  on  board  the 
steamers. 

The  Steamers  of  this  Line  are  ma^nliicently  furnished,  and  have  a  large  number  of 
elegant  and  airy  StPte-rooms,  and  tourists  will  find  this  a  most  pleasant  route  to  tha 
MOUNTAINS,  combining  a  short  sea-trip  and  a  railway  ride. 


TIME    OP   SAILING. 

Leave   Boston,       in  Summer,  at  T  P.  M.    In  Winter,  at  5  P.  M. 


it 


Portland,  in  Summer,  at  8  P.  M.    In  Winter,  at  7  P.  M. 


Wai.  AVEEKS,  Agent, 
T\DIA   WIIAKF, 
Boston. 


W.  L.  BILLINGS,  Agent, 

ATLANTIC   WHARF, 
Portland. 


T 


M 

!•   i 


12 


AD  VERTISEMEXTS. 


Arrangement  for  1873. 

INTERNATIONAL  sTeAMSHIP  GOMP'Y 

LINE    OF    STEAMERS   BETWEEN 

BosTonr, 

PORTLAND,  EASTPORT,  &  ST.  JOHN,  N.  B., 

WITH  C^ITOECTIOKS  TO  CALAIS,  HE., 

n.  z :f< .^ ^s: ,    r^.  s., 

Charlottetown,  P.  E.  IsL,  etc. 


The  favorite,  superior,  sea-going  steamers  of  this  line, 

NEW    YORK,      NEW   BRUNSWICK, 

AND 

CITY    OF    PORTLAND, 

Leave  end  of  Commercial  Wliart\  Boston,  at  S  A.  M.^  and 
Bailroad  Wharf,  Portland,  at  6  F.  31.,  for  East- 
port  and  St*  Jclm  as  follo-ws: 

In  April,  May,  and  June,  every  Monday  and  Thursday. 

In  July,  Aufe^ust,  Septeml)er,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday. 
(From  July  8th  to  August  ?6th  a  steamer  will  leave  every  Tuesday  in  additiou,  mak- 
ing in  all  four  round  trip.s  per  week.) 

In  October  and  November  every  Monday  and  Thursday,  and  in  December 
every  Monday. 

Passengers  by  the  ^y^  A.  M.  and  12J^  P.  M.  trains  of  Eastern  and  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroads  from  Boston  can  take  the  steamer  at  Portland  at  6  P.  M. 

Passengers  forwarded  by  connecting  steamers  and  railroad  lines  to  Calais  and 
II  lulton  Me.,  St.  Andre-^vs,  Woodstock,  Fredericton,  and  Shediac,  N.  B.,  Amherst, 
Truro,  New  Glasgow,  Pictou,  Digby,  Annapolis,  Kentville,  Windsor,  Liverpool,  and 
Halifax,  N.  S.,  ^ummerside  and  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I. 

Rates  of  fare  from  Boston  to  Eastport,  $4.50;  Calais,  S5.00;  St.  John,  S500; 
Sf.  John  and  return,  $9.00;  Digby,  6.50;  Annapolis,  ."ST.OO;  Kentvillf,  $7.50; 
Halifax,  $8.50;  Shediac,  $7.'^0  ;  Summeraide,  $  9.00  ;  Charlottetown,  $  lO.CO. 

Through  tickets  at-  I  State  Kooms  secured  at  the  Agents' 
oflices  or  of  clerics  on  board* 


AGENTS:   A.  R.  Stubks,  Portland;  George  H  yes,  Eastport;  Thomas  John- 
son, Calais;  H.  W.  Chlsholm,  St.  John. 

W.  H.  KILBY,  End  of  Commercial  Wharf, 

BOSTON. 


OMP'Y 


Ny    Ni  Duy 


s., 


ICK, 


.  M.)  and 

ASt- 


,  and  Friday, 
idditiou,  mak- 

i  December 

1 
111  Boston  and  | 
k  i 

to  Cftlats  and   | 
.  B.,  Amherst, 
Liverpool,  and 

i 
John,  S  5  00  ; 
tville,  91M;   \ 

, » lo.co.         I 
le  Agents' 


CnoMAS  JonN- 

ITharf, 

iOSTON. 


AD  VERTISEMEiVTS. 


13 


STONINGTON  LINE 


TO 


New  York.  PhMelpliia,  Baltiore,  WaslEton, 

AND  ALL  POINTS  SOUTH  AND  WEST! 

Inside  Route  via  Providence  and  Stonington. 

Connects  with  the  new  and  splendid  sea-going  Steamers, 

NARRAGANSETT,  STONINGTON, 


Gait.  Ray  Allen. 


Cait.  Je3SK  Mott. 


Parsengera  will  take  the  Steamboat  Express  Train,  at  Boston  and  Providence 
Railroad  Station,  corner  of  Park  S<iuare  ard  Columbus  Avenue,  at  5.30  P.  M  ,  arriv- 
ing in  New  York  the  following  morning  ahead  of  all  other  lines. 


SHOBE   LINE 


VIA 


Providence,  New  London,  and  New  Haven, 


TO 


PHILADELPHIA,  BALTIMORE,  WASHINGTON, 
AND  ALL  POINTS  SOUTH  AND  WEST ! 


TWO  DAILY  TRAINS  leave  from  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad 
Station,  corner  of  Park  Square  and  Columbus  Avenue. 

11.10  A.  M.,  New  York  Express.  9.30  P.  M.,  New  York  Express. 

Sunday  Night  Mail,  tf  .30  P.  M.  Wagner's  Drawing-Room  Cars  on  all  Day 
Trains,  and  Sleeping  Cars  on  all  Night  Trains. 

Through  Tickets,  Berths,  a!ul  Chairs  can  be  secured  at  the  Boston,  and  Providence 
Railroad  Station,  and  at  the  Oflice  of 

J.  W.  RICHARDSON,   Agent, 
S2  Wsi^liiii^ton  Street,       ....        Boston. 


'  I 


I   i 


■    » 


14 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


NOTICE! 


►♦*- 


PasjiieneerH  eu  route  for  the  West  vrho  travel  by  way  of 
Tin:  GREAT  PENNSYLVANIA  RAILROAD  have  the  privl- 
lege  of  visltiiis  ami  stopping  over,  for  any  length  of  time,  in 
the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  WITHOUT  EX- 
TICA  CHARGE.  Tickets  good  until  use<1.  Baggage  checked 
through.  Heavy  Steel  Rails.  .Suspension  Joints.  Double 
Track.  Roa<l  ballasted  with  a  bed  of  broken  limestone 
t^vcnty  inches  deep.  Cars  lighted  by  gas  and  heated  by 
steam.  Free  from  Dust  and  the  action  of  Frost.  Iron  or  Stone 
Brit^ges.  No  Trestle-work.  Trains  run  by  Telegraph.  Per- 
feet  Signal  Service.  Westinghouse  Air  -  Brakes.  Pullman 
Day  and  Sleeping  Carr,  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Indianapolis, 
Louisville,  St.  Louis,  and  intermediate  points  WITHOUT 
CHANGE,  and  to  Qulncy,  Kansas  City,  Sioux  City,  Omaha^ 
Cleveland,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul,  Memphis,  Mobile,  New  Or- 
leans, and  Denison,  Texas,  with  BUT  ONE  CHANGE  of  cars. 
Continuous  Trains  — no  connections  to  miss.  No  Midnight 
Changes.     No   Detention    f ro\  i    Snow.     Courteous    Employees. 

Unusual   racilities  for  Superior   3Ieals  at   suitable   hours. 

UNEQUALLED  in  Structure,  Equipment,  Speed,  Comfort, 
and  Security.  Unrivalled  in  Beauty  and  Variety  of  Scenery. 
Rates  always  as  low  as  by  any  other  Route. 

THROUGH    TICKGTIS 

TO  ALL  POINTS  IN  THE  WESTERN  AND  SOUTHEEN  STATES 

FOK    SALE   AT 

77  and  79  Washington  Street,  Boston, 

AND   PUINCIPAL   TICKET   OFl'ICES   IN   NEW   ENGLAND. 

CYRUS  S.  HALDEMAN,   .    .  New  England  Agent. 


! 


by  way    of 

the  pHvl- 

ot  time,  In 

lOUT    EX- 

jfe   checked 

s.      Double 

limestone 

heated    l>y 

an  or  Stone 

raph.     Per- 

Fullman 

dianapoliSf 

WITHOUT 

y>    Omaha« 

New   Or- 

rE  of  cars. 

Midnight 

Employees. 

ours. 

Comfort, 
f  Scenery. 

X  STATES 

ston, 

I>. 

i  Agent. 


A  D  VER  TISEMEXTS. 


15 


OSGOOD'S  LIBRARY  OF  NOVELS. 


Woven  of  Many  Threads.    50  cents. 
The  3Iember  for  Paris.    By  Trois  Etoiles.    75  cents. 
Nobody's  Fortune.    By  Kdmund  Yates.    76  cents. 
Can  the  Old  Love  ?    By  Z.  B.  Buduington.    Illustmted.    76  cents. 
Kate  Beaumont.    By  J.  W.  De  Forest.    Illustrated.    76  cents. 
A  Crown  from  the  Spear.    By  the  Author  of  "  Woven  of  Many 
Threads."     75  cents. 

Broken  Toys.    By  Anna  C.  Steele.    75  cents. 

Only  Three  Weeks.    50  cents. 

Reginald  Archer.    By  the  Author  of  "Emily  Chester."    76  cents. 

The  Foe  in  the  Household.    By  Caroline  Ciiesebro'.    75  cents. 

Something  to  Do.    75  cents. 

Ina.    By  Katherine  Valerio.    75  cents. 

The  Marquis  de  Vlllemer.    By  George  Sand.    75  cents. 

Cesarine  Dietrich.    By  George  Sand.    76  cents. 

A  Rolling  Stone.    By  George  Sand.    50  cents. 

Handsome  Lawrence.    By  George  Sand.    50  cents. 

The  Lost  Despatch..  50  cents. 

The  Mystery  of  Orcival.    By  E.mile  Gaboriau.    75  cents. 

"  Six  Mouths  Hence."    75  cents. 

Choisy.    By  James  P.  Story.    75  cents. 

Love  and  Valor.    By  Tom  Hood.    75  cents. 

Ethel  Mildmay's  Follies.    75  cents. 

The  Story  of  Sibylle.    By  Octave  Feuillet.    75  cents. 

The  Lady  of  Lyndon.    By  Lady  Blake.    75  cents. 

The  Comedy  of  Terrors.    By  J.  DeMille.    76  cents. 

The  Yellow  Flag.    By  Edmund  Yates.    75  cents. 

Not  Easily  Jealous.    75  cents. 

The  Widow  Lerouge.    By  Emile  Gaboriau.    75  cents. 

Not  without  Thorns.    By  Ennis  Graham.    75  cents. 

Ready-Money  Mortiboy.    75  cents. 

Ruth  Maxwell.    By  Lady  Blake.    75  cents. 

Ropes  of  Sand.    75  cents. 

JAMES  R  OSGOOD  &  CO.,  PUBLISHERS,  BOSTON. 


,'  • 


r  I 


!  I 


»  ! 


I  » 
I  i 


]G 


AU  VERTlidEMENTS. 


THE  SUREST  RAILWAY  GUIDE-BOOK 


IS 


Snow's  Pathfinder  Railway  Guide, 

FOR  THE  KEW  ENQLAND  STATES; 

Established  July,  1849, 

BY   AUTHORITY    OP    THE    NEW  ENGLAND    ASSOCIATION 
OP    RAILROAD    SUPEIllNTENDENTS. 


;  1 


Tho  only  OFFICIAL  Work  of  the  kind. 

It  is  printed  in  Book  Form  on  the  First  Monday  in  kvert  Month  —  containing 
OFFICIAL  TIME-TABLES  of  the  Railway  Companies,  with  Stations, 
Digtances,  Fares,  etc.,  etc.,  and  other  important  information  respecting  Ball- 
way,  Steamboat,  and  Stage  Routes,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  complete  map 
of  the  railway  system  of  New  England. 

A  WEEKLY  SUPPLEMENT 

is  printed  every  Monday  Morning,  containing  a  simple  statement  of  trains  leaving 
Boston  and  return  times;  also,  leaving  time  of  Steamers,  and  the  change  of  time  on 
all  New  England  Iloads  which  may  occur  after  the  Book  is  printed. 

Single  copies,  15  cents;  sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price.  Subscription  price, 
$  2  50  per  annum,  including  12  copies  of  the  book  and  52  of  the  Supplement. 

GEO.   K.  SNOW  &   BRADLEE;  Publishers, 

89  Court  St.,  Boston. 


RELIEF  MAP  OF  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


This  Map,  published  at  the  office  of  Snow's  Pathfinder  Railway  Qcidb,  is  the 
only  Map  of  the  White  Mountains  which  gives  the  travellers  an  exact  idea  of  the 
comparative  elevation  of  the  several  peaks,  or  depths  of  the  ravines.  It  is  prepared 
in  the  most  accurate  manner,  and  presents  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  entire  region  as 
it  would  appear  to  the  eye  of  a  balloonist  when  elevated  far  above  the  entire  range. 

It  measures  9  by  11  inches,  and  is  enclosed  in  a  framework  to  protect  it.  The 
material  used  in  its  manufacture  is  Papier-Mache,  and  the  entire  work  was  executed 
in  Germany  for  the  Publishers,  and  is  offered  to  the  public  at  the  low  price  of  $  1.50, 
or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price.  Also,  for  aale  at  all  the  Hotels 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  White  Mountains,  and  at  the  leading  Bookstores.  Railroads, 
Stage-Routes,  Hotels,  Rivers,  and  all  points  of  interest  faithfully  and  accurately 
located. 

GEO.   K.  SNOW  &.  BRAULEE,  Publishers, 

89  Court  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


90K 


uide, 


OCIATION 


Lind. 

•H  —  containing 
th  Stations, 
pectiug  Rail- 
a  complete  map 


if  trains  leaving 
nge  of  time  on 

)scription  price, 
lament. 

tiers, 

■,,f  Boston. 


NTAINS. 


Y  GuiDB,  is  the 
xact  idea  of  the 

It  is  prepared 
entire  region  as 
;  entire  range, 
protect  it.    The 
rk  was  executed 

price  of  $  1.50, 
at  all  the  Hotels 
•es.     Railroads, 

and  accurately 

lers, 
ston,  Mass. 


AD  lERTlfiEMENTS. 


17 


ADVICE  TO  TRAVELERS. 

Every  man  who  travels,  and  every  other  man,  is  more 
or  less  exposed  to  death  or  injury  by  ac  ident.  Such  men 
are  reminded  that  there  is  a  coiupany  organized  for  the 
special  purpose  of  insuring  against  accidents  to  life  and 
limb.  Not  against  accidents  of  travel  alone,  but  against 
accidents  in  general. 

So  well  has  this  company  prosecuted  the  business  of  Acci- 
dent Insurance,  that  it  has  written  upwards  of  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five  thousand  policies,  and  paid  over  Two  Mil- 
lion Dollars  in  benefits  to  its  policy-holders.  We  refer,  of 
course,  to  the  Travelers  Insurance  Company,  of  Hart- 
ford, Conn.,  which  has  cash  assets  of  Two  and  a  Half  Mil- 
lions, is  every  way  sound  and  reliable,  and  promptly  pays 
all  j  vist  claims. 

Every  man,  whether  he  travels  much  or  little,  should 
have  one  of  the  general  accident  policies  of  the  Travelers. 
Thousands  of  men  have  them,  and 

♦*  There 's  room  for  thousands  more." 


COST   OF   A    YEARLY    ACCIDENT    POL.ICY 

In  the  Travelers  Insurance  Company. 


Amount 
Insured. 

Weekly 
Indemnity. 

annual  premium. 

Class 
Preferred. 

Class 
Ordinary. 

Class 
Medium. 

1,000 
2,000 
3,000 
5,000 
10,000 

5.00 
10.00 
15.00 
25.00 
50.00 

5.00 
10.00 
15.00 
25.00 
50  00 

7.60 
15.00 
22.50 
37.50 
76.00 

10.00 
20.00 
30.00 
50.00 

Preferred  Class  includes  Clergymen,  Editors,  Lawyers,  Merchants,  Clerks, 
Bankers,  Bookkeepers,  etc. 

Ordinary  Class  includes  Commercial  Agents,  Traveling  Men,  Insurance  Adjusters, 
Bookbinders,  Printers,  Railroad  Superintendents,  Machinists,  etc. 

Meiiium  Class  includes  Passenger  Conductors,  Carpenters,  Blacksmiths,  Farmers, 
Butchers,  Masons,  Stage- Drivers,  etc. 

BO^  Apply  to  any  Agent,  or  write  to  the  Company,  at  Hartford,  Conn. 

June,  1873. 


18 


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20 


AD  VERTIfiEMENTS. 


DREXEL   AND    CO. 

34  South  Third  Street, 

PHILADELPHIA. 


DREXEL,   MORGAN,  AND  CO. 

Broad  and  Wall  Streets, 

NEW 


•  \- 


!l 

;  '  I 
i 


DREXEL,   HARJES,  AND  CO. 

31  Boulevard  Haussmann, 


PARIS. 


BANKERS. 


;    , 


'     !« 


TRAVELERS'  AND    COMMERCIAL    CREDITS 

AVAILABLE  IN  ALL  THE  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS 
AND   CITIES   OF    EUROPE. 


)0. 


PARIS. 


REDITS 

WNS 


AJ)  VER  TI  SEME  NTS. 


21 


WONBERFITL   SUCCESS    OF 

DR.T.  FELIX  GOURAUD'S  "ORIENTAL  CREAM," 

OR 

JVIagical   Beautifier. 

ITS  FAME  IS  RAPIDLY  SPREADING  OVER  THE  COUNTRY. 

See  the  avalanche  of  Testimonials,  selected  from  thousands,  in  its  praise. 

A  French  lady  writes  : 

MoNS.  OoruAfD,  — 'TIa  but  an  iu-t  of  lusiico  that  I  nlioiilrl  Rpont.incouMy  give  yon 
my  unqualified  to«tlmonial  of  tho  united  clHcacy,  innocence,  and  fVaRrance  of  your 
preparation  for  purifying  and  cleannin}?  the  skin.  By  Its  use  every  piinplq  and  freckle 
nave  vanisfied  from  my  face.  You  should,  Mdu  Ami,  as  It  Is  so  hot»  reltni  and  charm- 
ing a  remedy  f<jr  scatterlni^  all  blemishes  from  our  faces,  call  It  le  delice  dea  dainea.  En 
un  uwt,je  auis  enchantc  de  le  cosineti'jue  elj'en  voiu  irimrrif  de  tout  mou  rceur. 

KMILL.B  Dksmuulins,  Mudisun  Avenue. 

The  following  from  the  Eminent  Traeedienne,  MrH.  D.  P.  Bowern. 

Dr.  OornAUD,  —  Will  you  send  six  bottles  of  your  *'  Oriental  (.'ream  "  to  the  above 
address,  not  forgetting  to' be  reasonable  In  price?   Yours  Truly,  Mrs.  D.  P.  Uowers. 


The  following  from  Mrs.  Col.  Younir,  Laily  of  Col.  Youngr*  of 
"  Young's  Kentucky  Cavalry." 

Dr.  T.  Femx  OofRAUD.  Hamilton,  Ohio,  .luly  7,  IS-W. 

Dear  Sir,  — Some  weeks  since  I  wrote  to  you,  enclosing  the  Sunday  Despatch, 
with  a  notice  of  your  valuable  cosmetic,  "  Oriental  Cream."  I  fear  that  you  did  not 
receive  mj'  communication;  If  not,  I  shall  be  much  pleased  to  hear  from  you,  and  also 
gratified  to  receive  a  half-dozen  of  your  charming  preparation  for  tho  complexion. 
Your  "  Oriental  Cream  "  should  be  Immortalized,  as  I  have  no  doubt  it  Is  nlrcady  by 
many  a  fair  dealer  In  this  charming  device  for  rendering  youth  immortal.  Tho  wo- 
men'are  all  crazy  to  know  my  recipe  for  a  brilliant  complexion.  I  have  lost  hiilf  of  my 
good  looks  already  for  the  want  of  this  indispensable  luxury,  as  1  am  travelling  for 
the  health  of  my  little  boy.  Obediently  yours,        F.  L.  Youwg. 

From  the  Countess  de  Blerski,  a  Lieadingr  Society  Iiady. 

Df.  GoruAUD.  RocHKSTER,  Fcnruary  18, 1867. 

Dear  Sir,  —  Please  send  me  two  more  bottles  of  your  charming  "  Oriental  Cream," 
by  American  Express,  and  oblige    Yours  respectfully.         Countess  de  Bierski. 

From  Miss  Fannie  Stockton,  tho  Prima  Donna  of  the  Opera  House. 

Buffalo,  December,  ISWJ. 
Dr.  T.  F.  Oouraud,  —  I  do  not  wish  to  put  anything  else  In  contact  with  my  face, 
so  delighted  am  I  with  this  matchless  cosmetlque.    Please  send  me  ten  bottles. 

Fannie  Stockton. 

BvNGOR,  Me. 
Dr.  Goukaud,  — I  have  found  your"  Cream"  so  delicious;  It  softens  and  makes 
the  skin  so  beautiful :  It  docs  give  mc  faith  In  your  other  preparations. 

Miss  Anna  G**^. 

.St.  Loui.s. 
Dr.  T.  Felix  Oouraud,  —  The  "  Cream  "  is  the  nicest  wash  for  the  skin ;  it  Is  ex- 
cellent.    Mrs.  E.  Curtin. 


Dr.  Gouracd,  —  Your 
and  refreshing. 


Boston. 
Oriental  Cream"  Is  perfectly  delicious;   It  Is  so  cooling 
Mrs.  Eaton. 


From  Fvans,  the  celebrated  Perfumer,  of  Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia,  April  30, 186fl. 
Dr.  Goubaud,  —I  think  your  "  Cream  "  is  unquestionably  the  best  thing  In  this 
line,  from  tho  reason,  when  a  lady  once  uses  It  she  continues  ft  in  preference  to  any- 
thing else.  Our  customers  for  it  arc  regular  ones.  I  find  It  Is  retailed  by  the  drug- 
gists and  fancy  stores  at  Two  Dollars  a  bottle  yet.  There  Is  more  sold  here  than  you 
are  aware  of.  What  Is  required  to  Insure  a  large  sale  is  a  liberal  amount  spent  in  ju- 
dicious advertising.  Let  the  ladles  know  its  merits,  and  especially  the  price,  and  if 
they  once  try  it  we  secure  a  regular  customer.  If  I  was  the  owner,  I  would  sell  more 
of  It  In  this  city  than  all  the  rest  of  the  skin  preparations  put  together.  T.  W.  Evans. 

Prepared  and  invented  by  DR.  T.  FKI.IX  GOUKAUD,  48  Bond  St.,  N.  Y. 
Establislied  1831).     To  be  had  of  Druggets,  &c. 


w 


i 


li 


'  j 


23 


A  D  VER  TI  SEMEN  TS, 


POPULAR  NEW  BOOKS. 


WHAT    TO    WEAR? 

By  Klizadetu  Stuart  Phelps,  author  of  "  The  Ontes  Ajar,"  "The  Silent  Part* 
ner,''  etc.     1  vol.     lemo.     Paper,  60  crits  •,  Cloth  .'J  1.00. 

CONTKNTS.  —  Gorgoiis  or  OrHCisf  —  "  Dressed   to  kill."  — The  Moral  of  it. — 
What  can  we  do  about  it  ?  —  After  tliou;'ht9.  —  Our  Fashion  IMate. 


AMONG    THE   ISLES   OF    SHOALS. 

By  Cklia  Thaxter.     Illustrated  by  II.  Fenn.     1vol.     Small  4to.     S1.60. 
"  A  book  no  one  who  visits  the  islands  can  do  without."  —  Boston  Adoertiaer. 


A    CHANCE    ACQUAINTANCE. 

By  W.  I).  IIowEi.i.s,  author  of  '*  Venetian  Life,"  "  Italian  .lournpys,"  "  Suburban 
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AD  VEHTlaHMLXT/i. 


33 


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of  It.— 


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loston. 


CfflCKERING  &  SONS' 

PIANOS 

Have   taken    the    First   Prciiiiiiiii 

OVER  ALL  C0MI»ETIT10N 

IN  AMERICA,  ENGLAND,  AND  FRANCE. 

THKSE    STANDARD    INSTRUMKNTS    AllK   NOW  OFFERED 
AT   RFDIJCED    RATES   ON    THE 

OISTE- FRIGE     SYSTEM. 


43,000 


OP  TIIE3K  STANDARD   PIANO-FORTES   HAVE    BEEN    MADE  AND  SOLD 

SINCE  1823,  AND 

Eiglity-Oiic  Fir^t  Prciniiiiii^,  have  been  awarded 
to  our  Finn  over  all  Competition, 


These  Pianos  are  siill  regarded  and  universally  conceded  to  be 

THE  STANDARD  INSTRUMENTS  OF  THE  WORLD, 

and  are  so  pronounced  l)y  all  the  great  artists. 

Dr.  Fkanz  Liszt  says  :  "  I  consider  the  (;i\ici<erin?  Piano  suprrior  to  any  made  in 
Europe  or  Jlmtrica,  and  am  fully  convinced  that  they  were  justly  entitled  to  the 
First  Prizn." 

CHICKERING  &  SONS'  MAMMOTH  MANUFACTORY 

is  more  than  one  third  larger  than  any  other  Piano- Forte  IManufactory  in  the  world, 
and  is  in  every  respect  the  most  complete  as  regards  machinery  and  the  facilities  for 
doing  the  very  bent  clast  of  work.  Messrs.  C.  &  S^ns  have,  since  the  establish- 
ment of  their  bnsintss  in  182;j,  made  and  sold  43,000  Pianos,  and  these  Standard  In- 
struments aie  now  oflered  at  Reiiuced  Rates  upon  the  '  Onk-Phice  Svstk.m,''  free 
from  all  discounts  and  commis.sions  ;  and  they  are  beyond  all  refutatioa  the  vbrt 
BEST  and  VERY  CHEAPEST  First-Class  Pianos  now  offered. 

A    €AKD. 

We  call  especial  attention  to  our 

UPRIGHT    PIANOS, 

which  are  in  every  particular  the  finest  instruments  of  their  class  manufactured,  and 
second  only  to  the  Grand  Piano,  for  which  Ihty  are  a  good  substitute. 
Every  Piano  warranted  for  Five  years. 

ClIICKFRIIVO    dc    SONfBf, 

791  Treaiont  Strest,  Boston. 11  E.  Utli  Street,  Now  York. 


24 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


FURNACES  I  COOKING-RANGES. 

A  long  and  thorough  practical  and  successful  experience  in  the  invention  and  man- 
ufacture of  Furnaces  in  their  various  forma  of  Cast  and  Wrought  Iron  has  enabled 
me  to  real'y  understand  how  to  make  a  furnace  smoke  and  ffan  tight,  and  to  combine 
all  the  essentials  requisiite  for  HEALTH,  KCONOM  Y,  and  DUIliVlHLITY  in  warming 
buildings ;  and  from  the  testimony  of  the  many  thousands  in  use  it  would  seem  to  be 
only  a  question  of  time  whcn-my  Improved  Furnaces,  Brick  and  Portables^  would  be 
in  quite  general  use  all  over  the  country. 

CniLSON'S   NSW  AND  SPLENDID  BRICK-SET 

Gooking^-Bange,  The  Arlington. 

On  this  Range  I  am  willing  to  rest  my  reputation  as  an  inventor  and  manufacturer 
of  strictly  first-class  work.  Foity  years  of  thorough,  practical  experience  in  busi- 
ness have  enabled  me  to  know  liow  to  make  a  Ilange  that  shall  combine  all  the  facili- 
ties that  can  be  desired  for  all  culinary  purposes.  The  kitchen,  in  our  modern-built 
houses,  has  become  a  room  of  the  first  importance  in  good  household  economy.  The 
cheap,  rough,  and  slightly  made  Ranges  of  former  days,  that  required  so  much 
repairs  and  were  such  wasteful  consumers  of  fuel,  are  rapidly  giving  place  to  a  better 
class  of  work,  which  will  truly  be  found  in  this  Range. 

CHILSON'S    NEW 

Poi'table  Cooking-Range,  The  Arlington. 

This  is  the  most  desirable  Portable  Range,  in  all  respects,  ever  offered  for  sale,  and 
the  same  is  substantially  true  of  the 

Arlington    Cooking  -  Sto ve» 

Also,  a  fine  assortment  of  PARLOR  AND  OTHER  HEATING  STOVES,  in- 
cluding the  much-admired 

CONE  DISK   STOVE, 

FOR  THOROUGHLY   AND    ECONOMICALLY    WARMING    RAILWAY-CABS, 
STORES,  FACTORIES,   HALLS,  &c. 

Special  .ittention  given  to  pittting  up  Furnaces  and  llanges, 
and  the  Ventilation  of  BuildiiiRfs,  in  any  part  of  the  country. 

CCr*  Nothing  but  strictly  first- r^lass  work  is  manufactured  by  me. 


WARER00M8,  99  &  101  BLAGKSTONE  ST.,  BOSTON. 

FOUNDRY  AT  MANSFIELD,  MASS. 

OARDI\ER   CHILSOrV. 


IGES. 

tion  and  man* 
1  has  enabled 
id  to  combine   ' 
'Y  in  warming   ' 
lid  seem  to  be  : 
'lies,  would  be   j 


ET 

gton. 

manufacturer 
ence  in  busi- 
all  the  facili- 
modern-built 
onomy.  The 
red  so  much 
ce  to  a  better 


ington. 

for  sale,  and 

OVGa 

JTOVES,  in- 


7AY-CARS, 
I  Ilanges, 

lOSTON. 

L.SOIV. 


THE  BEST  SQUARE  PIANOS  IN  THE  WORLO. 


THE 


HENRY   F.    MILLER 
PIANOS. 


Used  in  the  PubUc  Schools  of  Boston, 


In  the  New  England  Conservatory  of 

Music, 

(The  largest  Huslo  School  in  the  World,) 


In  the  Boston  Music  School, 
And  by  our  best  Resident  Musicians. 


UBimY  F.  mZiIiEiR, 


BOSTOIV. 


THE  SHORT  AND  SEA-SHORE  ROUTE  I 
Kastern  Railroad. 

■Minim  I  I   ■■  ii     aiii    ■■— 

OONNEOTIONS  ARK   MADE   AT    PORTLAND 

WITH   ALL  TtIR 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  LZNfiS 


TO  ANM  rnon  all  parts  or  tub 


STATE  OF  MAIKE  AND  MARITIME  PROVINCE& 

tfUIl  M  TUB  ONLY  LtNV 

Bunnlnff  flv*  TriUns  Vailf  bstwMin  Bottott  Mtd  PortlttBd* 

TBI*  IS  THS  ONLY  LINK 

Ai&t!  orlMd  to  sell  i\ihroii«h  ticket*  to  points  on  Knox  tmA  Itlaaoln, 
llAitt*  CiMitral,  »nd  BuropMMi  and  North  AmeTloAn  llallwafSt 

TttlS  IS  THB  ONLY  LINIS  BITKNINO 


m 
m 


fJl: 


I 


iPI^A  WBHT  EXPRESS  TRAIN  BETWEEN  BOSTON  ft  BMNOR.   Jfji 

THIS  IS  THB  ONLY  L!NB 

Bunnlng  Puilmasi  Parlor  And  PttlMse  8l««plmr  Ottrs  lnrtwSM  BMtou 

and  tito  Bast. 

trnS  IS  THB  ONLY  LINB 

Bttlwwm  Boston,  Portland,  Augnsta,  and  Bmmkot  wiUUNlt  dMUffe 

of  Cars* 

VBM  SaOBTBST  AND  ONLY  BOUTE  BBTWEBN 

BOSTON,  NORTH  SONWAY,  AND  WHITE  MOUNTIMO, 

WITHOUT  CHANGE  OP  CARS. 

iSmnAwtan  aooompanr  Passrnivsrs  tliroiiffli  to  Ban^oTf  also  la  Slorth 

Oonwajr, 

98  Ooean  Wafavlng-PlaiMis 

on  thli  road  b«tw«en  Boston  mA  Portlsnd. 

mis  I.  «~i*-^«r^»Biisr«te  KsfeSr  s\*5f  ri^  »••— ^  "^ 

PULLMAN   OARS  ON  ALL  THROUGH  TRAWM8. 

All  Xodom  ImsHPOTements  ara  In  uso  on  tiKIs  voad* 

BOSTON  OFFICE,  184  WASHINfiTON  STREET. 

;^  ^f^  purobftMng  tlokstt  mNt  %j  Mspi,  AdTtrUMments,  tie.  of  lUs  soqimw,  t»  U  bau 
sTsU  r^Bolpsl  ticket  SfeuU  In  tiM  United  SUtM  snd  Provtnow,  aad     ^X^ 

HOHRE  THE  MMY  RDVANTA6E8  THIS  IM  IHiRS. 


I 


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